element14 7 pi touchscreen lcd display made in china

*Estimated delivery dates- opens in a new window or tabinclude seller"s handling time, origin ZIP Code, destination ZIP Code and time of acceptance and will depend on shipping service selected and receipt of cleared payment. Delivery times may vary, especially during peak periods.Notes - Delivery *Estimated delivery dates include seller"s handling time, origin ZIP Code, destination ZIP Code and time of acceptance and will depend on shipping service selected and receipt of cleared payment. Delivery times may vary, especially during peak periods.

Raspberry Pi OS provides touchscreen drivers with support for ten-finger touch and an on-screen keyboard, giving you full functionality without the need to connect a keyboard or mouse.

The 800 x 480 display connects to Raspberry Pi via an adapter board that handles power and signal conversion. Only two connections to your Raspberry Pi are required: power from the GPIO port, and a ribbon cable that connects to the DSI port on all Raspberry Pi computers except for the Raspberry Pi Zero line.

I recently acquired an official Raspberry Pi 7″ touchscreen display from my pals over at Element 14. These screens have been out for a long time and are already well documented, so I’m not going to go into the ins and outs of the screen itself today.

If you haven’t seen one of these screens in the flesh then you won’t know that they feel VERY delicate! I’ve also heard multiple reports of the glass layers on the front of the screen slipping off – so wrapping this thing in a lovely chunk of plastic is my first priority.

Unlike cases designed just for the Pi itself, there aren’t many touchscreen display case options for the official screen. For some reason the touchscreen case market hasn’t taken off in the same way.

It follows the theme of the Pibow line of cases, slapping layers of well-designed and well-cut acrylic together to create a good looking see-through casing. I believe you can also fit a Pibow case to the back of this stand, for ‘pibowey’ harmony (and a bit more protection).

This was one of the cheapest cases available at £12 and comes in 6 colour options, however it wasn’t an option for me as I was after something that covered up the Pi.

Another option popping its head up on my search was this rugged looking number from ModMyPi (no longer available). This case rocks up at £14.99 which is middle of the road for the selection I’m covering here.

It certainly ticked the protection box, but was a little too chunky for my liking. It also appears to leave the Pi open to dust – which really isn’t a massive deal – but others at the same price offered a more sealed back end.

It actually doesn’t look too bad at all. From what I can see in the product pictures, it has nice smooth lines, is reasonably low profile and looks to offer that flush front that I desire.

However, the product shots don’t show you around the case so I couldn’t really see what I would be buying. I’m also not a fan of the ‘badger’ stripe through the middle either – and above all – that £27 price tag is way beyond my average wallet!

Tom’s case is low profile, has an adjustable angle and LEGO compatible sections. The Pi is easily removed thanks to a little door at the back, works well with HATs, and the screw mount options make it a great shout for attaching to your wall.

Unfortunately it isn’t out for Retail purchase just yet, but pre-order is open starting at around £18. As I needed protection fast, I had to skip this option. Update: Tom’s been busy! After releasing the successful Touch 2 case, the new SmartiPi Touch Pro is now out!

The PiggiPi stand is the only metal offering in this list, coming as a 2-piece kit that you can assemble yourself in 5 minutes. It’s obviously tough as nails due to the material it’s made of, but as PiggiPi opted for rear port/pin access, there isn’t any protection of the Pi at the rear.

It may not technically be a ‘case’, and it may offer pretty much zero protection to your delicate screen, but there’s no denying how slick it makes your display look on a desk. It makes your Pi display looks like a floating tablet PC – no bulky case edges or excess, just pure glass at a nice viewing angle.

We’ve all seen wooden cases for the Raspberry Pi itself (check out my C4Labs post), but this is the first one I’ve seen for the official touchscreen. It looks a lot like some of the other options here, however the bamboo really sets it apart. They’ve got a proper smart hipster-desk-thing going on here!

Yet another no-name option from far away in the land of Aliexpress. This case has gone for the clear look but not using the laser cut layers that we’re used to seeing in the Pi case market.

What’s different about this one? Well it’s got an adjustment stand at the back to offer different viewing angles, but the exciting bit is the sections behind the screen for the Pi and a breadboard.

First up, the entire screen and Pi are cuddled in a solid single piece of plastic. That offers the protection I wanted from both knocks and dust, and gives me confidence that no parts of the casing can snap off.

I wanted to share the screen cases I found as there aren’t many to choose from, and I had quite a few people ask where I got mine when sharing on Twitter. If you stumble across this blog when shopping for your own, maybe it’ll help you find some touchscreen display case options you weren’t aware of.

I recently acquired an official Raspberry Pi 7″ touchscreen display from my pals over at Element 14. These screens have been out for a long time and are already well documented, so I’m not going to go into the ins and outs of the screen itself today.

If you haven’t seen one of these screens in the flesh then you won’t know that they feel VERY delicate! I’ve also heard multiple reports of the glass layers on the front of the screen slipping off – so wrapping this thing in a lovely chunk of plastic is my first priority.

Unlike cases designed just for the Pi itself, there aren’t many touchscreen display case options for the official screen. For some reason the touchscreen case market hasn’t taken off in the same way.

It follows the theme of the Pibow line of cases, slapping layers of well-designed and well-cut acrylic together to create a good looking see-through casing. I believe you can also fit a Pibow case to the back of this stand, for ‘pibowey’ harmony (and a bit more protection).

This was one of the cheapest cases available at £12 and comes in 6 colour options, however it wasn’t an option for me as I was after something that covered up the Pi.

Another option popping its head up on my search was this rugged looking number from ModMyPi (no longer available). This case rocks up at £14.99 which is middle of the road for the selection I’m covering here.

It certainly ticked the protection box, but was a little too chunky for my liking. It also appears to leave the Pi open to dust – which really isn’t a massive deal – but others at the same price offered a more sealed back end.

It actually doesn’t look too bad at all. From what I can see in the product pictures, it has nice smooth lines, is reasonably low profile and looks to offer that flush front that I desire.

However, the product shots don’t show you around the case so I couldn’t really see what I would be buying. I’m also not a fan of the ‘badger’ stripe through the middle either – and above all – that £27 price tag is way beyond my average wallet!

Tom’s case is low profile, has an adjustable angle and LEGO compatible sections. The Pi is easily removed thanks to a little door at the back, works well with HATs, and the screw mount options make it a great shout for attaching to your wall.

Unfortunately it isn’t out for Retail purchase just yet, but pre-order is open starting at around £18. As I needed protection fast, I had to skip this option. Update: Tom’s been busy! After releasing the successful Touch 2 case, the new SmartiPi Touch Pro is now out!

The PiggiPi stand is the only metal offering in this list, coming as a 2-piece kit that you can assemble yourself in 5 minutes. It’s obviously tough as nails due to the material it’s made of, but as PiggiPi opted for rear port/pin access, there isn’t any protection of the Pi at the rear.

It may not technically be a ‘case’, and it may offer pretty much zero protection to your delicate screen, but there’s no denying how slick it makes your display look on a desk. It makes your Pi display looks like a floating tablet PC – no bulky case edges or excess, just pure glass at a nice viewing angle.

We’ve all seen wooden cases for the Raspberry Pi itself (check out my C4Labs post), but this is the first one I’ve seen for the official touchscreen. It looks a lot like some of the other options here, however the bamboo really sets it apart. They’ve got a proper smart hipster-desk-thing going on here!

Yet another no-name option from far away in the land of Aliexpress. This case has gone for the clear look but not using the laser cut layers that we’re used to seeing in the Pi case market.

What’s different about this one? Well it’s got an adjustment stand at the back to offer different viewing angles, but the exciting bit is the sections behind the screen for the Pi and a breadboard.

First up, the entire screen and Pi are cuddled in a solid single piece of plastic. That offers the protection I wanted from both knocks and dust, and gives me confidence that no parts of the casing can snap off.

I wanted to share the screen cases I found as there aren’t many to choose from, and I had quite a few people ask where I got mine when sharing on Twitter. If you stumble across this blog when shopping for your own, maybe it’ll help you find some touchscreen display case options you weren’t aware of.

A number of people have used a Motorola Atrix Lapdock to add a screen and keyboard with trackpad to RasPi, in essence building a RasPi-based laptop computer. Lapdock is a very clever idea: you plug your Atrix smart phone into Lapdock and it gives you an 11.6" 1366 x 768 HDMI monitor with speakers, a keyboard with trackpad, two USB ports, and a large enough battery for roughly 5 hours of use. The smart phone acts as a motherboard with "good enough" performance. The advantage over a separate laptop or desktop computer is that you have one computing device so you don"t need to transfer files between your phone and your desk/laptop.

Unfortunately for Motorola, Lapdock was not successful (probably because of its US$500 list price) and Motorola discontinued it and sold remaining stock at deep discounts, with many units selling for US$50-100. This makes it a very attractive way to add a modest size HDMI screen to RasPi, with a keyboard/trackpad and rechargeable battery power thrown in for free.

Lapdock has two connectors that plug into an Atrix phone: a Micro HDMI D plug for carrying video and sound, and a Micro USB plug for charging the phone and connecting to the Lapdock"s internal USB hub, which talks to the Lapdock keyboard, trackpad, and two USB ports. With suitable cables and adapters, these two plugs can be connected to RasPi"s full-size HDMI connector and one of RasPi"s full-size USB A ports.

The RasPi forum has a long thread on Lapdock with many useful suggestions, photos, and links: I made a Raspberry PI Laptop. There"s also a good "blog entry at element14 with photos and suggestions of where to get cables and adapters: Raspberry Pi Laptop. TechRepublic has a tear-down article with photos of Lapdock internal components here: Cracking Open the Motorola Droid Bionic Lapdock. Paul Mano has a wealth of photos of Lapdock innards at Motorola Atrix Lapdock mod projects.

Lapdock uses the HDMI plug to tell if a phone is plugged in by seeing if the HDMI DDC/CEC ground pin is pulled low. If it"s not, Lapdock is powered off. As soon as you plug in a phone or RasPi, all the grounds short together and Lapdock powers itself on. However, it only does this if the HDMI cable actually connects the DDC/CEC ground line. Many cheap HDMI cables do not include the individual ground lines, and rely on a foil shield connected to the outer shells on both ends. Such a cable will not work with an unmodified Lapdock. There is a detailed "blog entry on the subject at element14: Raspberry Pi Lapdock HDMI cable work-around. The "blog describes a side-benefit of this feature: you can add a small power switch to Lapdock so you can leave RasPi attached all the time without draining the battery.

The Lapdock Micro USB plug is the upstream port of Lapdock"s internal USB hub, and connects to one of RasPi"s full-size USB ports. Lapdock is not USB compliant since it provides upstream power on its Vbus pin. Lapdock uses this to charge the Atrix phone. You can use this feature to power RasPi if you have a newer RasPi. The original RasPi rev 1 has 140 mA polyfuses F1 and F2 to protect the USB ports, which are too small for powering RasPi using upstream power. Newer RasPis replace F1 and F2 with zero Ohm jumpers or eliminate them entirely, which allows Lapdock to provide power. If you don"t mind modifying your original RasPi, you can add shorting jumpers over F1 and F2 or replace them with higher-current fuses.

What gets powered on depends on whether Lapdock is open or closed. If it"s open, the screen and all Lapdock USB ports are powered. If you close Lapdock, the screen and full-size USB ports are powered down, but the Micro USB still provides upstream power. This is for charging an Atrix phone. When you open or close Lapdock, the Micro USB power switches off for about a second so if your RasPi is connected it will reboot and you may have a corrupted file system. There"s discussion about this at the RasPi forum link, and someone has used a supercapacitor to work around the problem: Raspberry Pi lapdock tricks.

When you do not connect a HDMI monitor, the GPU in the PI will simply rescale (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_scaling) anything that would have appeared on the HDMI screen to a resolution suitable for the TV standard chosen, (PAL or NTSC) and outputs it as a composite video signal.

The Broadcom BCM2835 only provides HDMI output and composite output. RGB and other signals needed by RGB, S-VIDEO or VGA connectors are however not provided, and the R-PI also isn"t designed to power an unpowered converter box.

Note that any conversion hardware that converts HDMI/DVI-D signals to VGA (or DVI-A) signals may come with either an external PSU, or expects power can be drawn from the HDMI port. In the latter case the device may initially appear to work, but there will be a problem, as the HDMI specs only provide in a maximum of 50mA (@ 5 Volt) from the HDMI port, but all of these adapters try to draw much more, up-to 500mA, in case of the R-PI there is a limit of 200mA that can be drawn safely, as 200mA is the limit for the BAT54 diode (D1) on the board. Any HDMI to VGA adapter without external PSU might work for a time, but then burn out D1, therefore Do not use HDMI converters powered by the HDMI port!

The solution is to either only use externally powered converters, or to replace D1 with a sturdier version, such as the PMEG2010AET, and to replace the power input fuse F3 with a higher rated one, as the current one is only 700mA, and the adapter may use 400mA itself. Also notice that the R-PI"s power supply also must be able to deliver the extra current.

Alternatively, it may be possible to design an expansion board that plugs into the LCD headers on the R.Pi. Here is something similar for Beagleboard:

The schematics for apples iPhone 3gs and 4g suggest they speak DSI, thus they can probably be connected directly. The older iPhones use a "Mobile Pixel Link" connection from National Semiconductor. The 3GS panel (480×320) goes as low as US $14.88, while the 4G one (960×640, possibly the LG LH350WS1-SD01, with specifications) can be had for US $17.99 or as low as US $14.28. The connectors used might be an issue, but this connector might fit. Additional circuitry might be necessary to provide the display with required 1.8V and 5.7V for operation, and an even higher voltage for the backlight.

The Raspberry Pi provides one clock lane and two data lanes on the S2 connector, as can be read from the schematics. It is currently unknown whether this is enough to drive the iPhone 4G screen, as that screen seems be driven with three data lanes in its original application.

DVI receiver TFP401A, TFP403, or TFP501 + LVDS transmitter SN75LVDS83B or SN65LVDS93A (Mentioned earlier fit-VGA is build around TFP401A, probably many more "active" DVI2VGA cables are build the same way)

I2C/SPI ADC can be used to interface 4 pin resistive Touch Screens, For example STMPE812A. Texas Instruments has a solution for 4 or 8 wire touchscreens using their rather cheap MSP4309.

Parallel interface displays can be found in many sizes, usually up to 7" and more. Parallel interfaces are usually 8 or 16-bits wide (sometimes 18 or 24-bit wide), plus some control-lines. The Raspberry Pi P1-connector does not contain enough GPIOs for 16-bit wide parallel displays, but this could be solved by borrowing some GPIOs from the CSI-connector or from P5 (on newer Raspberry Pis). Alternatively, some additional electronics (e.g. shift-registers or a CPLD) can be used, which could also improve the framerate or lower the CPU-load.

AdvaBoard RPi1: Raspberry Pi multifunction extension board, incl. an interface and software for 3.2"/5"/7" 16-bit parallel TFT-displays incl. touchscreen with up to 50 frames/s (3.2", 320x240)

Texy"s 2.8" TFT + Touch Shield Board: HY28A-LCDB display with 320 x 240 resolution @ 10 ~ 20fps, 65536 colors, assembled and tested £24 plus postage, mounts on GPIO pins nicely matching Pi board size, or via ribbon cable

It’s a 7-inch display, 800 x 480 pixel resolution, 24-bit color, and has 10-point multitouch. Drivers for the display are already available with a simple call of sudo apt-get update, and the display itself is available at Newark, the Pi Store (sold out) and Element14. There’s even a case available, and a stand ready to be sent off to a 3D printer.

As for why it took so long for the Raspberry Pi foundation to introduce an official display for the Pi, the answer should not be surprising for any engineer. It’s EMC, or electromagnetic compliance. The DPI (Display Parallel Interface) for the Pi, presented on the expansion header and used by the GertVGA adapter allows any Pi to drive two displays at 1920 x 1024, 60FPS. This DPI interface is an electrical nightmare that spews RF interference everywhere it goes.

The solution the Pi foundation eventually settled on is an adapter board that converts the DSI bus to DPI signalling. This of course requires an extra PCB, and the Foundation provided mounting holes so a Pi can connect directly to it.

While this is the first display to make use of the DSI interface, it will assuredly not be the last. The Pi Foundation has given us a way to use the DSI connector to drive cheap DPI displays. While the 800×480 resolution of the official display may be a bit small, there will undoubtedly be a few hardcore tinkerers out there that will take this adapter board and repurpose it for larger displays.

This 7 Inch Raspberry Pi Touchscreen is customized forRaspberry Pi, but it is not limited to the 7-inch HDMI display of Raspberry Pi, 1024x600 HD resolution, with capacitive touch screen. This product is also a universal HDMI display, users can use it on other mini PCs (drive support is required), or even use it as a computer monitor.