lcd screen backlight repair factory

Typically we see a lot of sets with some sort of backlight problem - this is mostly because people and manufacturers like to run the sets with the backlight at 100%. Unfortunately with LED backlit sets this causes LEDs to fail, often just outside of the warranty period. Below we list the common faults and list the best ways to fix them.

If you have some dark or black spots on your LCD screen, then it"s typically a sign that one or more of the LEDs on the backlight strips has gone bad. In the case of edge lit LCDs you will see that an entire line on your screen appears to be darker than the rest.

In order to repair this, you will first need to buy a replacement set of strips - we recommend searching your model number on https://www.shopjimmy.com to find the correct part number and to be able to purchase the strips. We would recommend that you buy a full set and swap them all out at the same time, the repair process is quite time consuming and the cost of buying one strip vs a whole set is fairly minimal.

If you have white spots or very bright areas on your screen - then it"s very likely that one or more of the small lenses that are glued to the front of the LEDs in your set has either fallen off or moved.

Typically you will be looking for faulty / leaking capacitors on the LCD Power Board - although capacitors can sometimes fail and not show any visual signs. If you are able to confirm that the power board is operating correctly, then the next think to check would be the LED strips themselves. A quick visual check to look for burned or damaged LEDs may indicate where the problem is.

Warning: Disassembling your LCD set to get to the backlights is a complicated and delicate process, please be very careful when removing the LCD as it is very easy to crack it or damage the thin ribbon cables.

Every LCD screen eventually fails, usually due to the backlight behind the screens. That is why we have a backlight solution for every LCD screen on the market. Plazmo currently has the single largest global stock of drop-in CCFL and LED backlight assemblies.

Each of our assemblies comes complete with a pre-wired harness, OEM connector plug, silicone end caps and an optional metal rail. Nearly every LCD screen has a unique model design and we have developed the molds and manufacturing specifically to fit more than 200,000 LCD screen models in use today.

Plazmo also has robust manufacturing capabilities and specializes in perfectly replicating OEM backlight assemblies. Using our LED and CCFL backlight assemblies, we pass on savings to our customers while helping keep their LCD screens running smoothly.

Custom-designed backlight solutions are also available through Plazmo. Our experts will work with you to design, prototype and manufacture custom LED and CCFL backlight assemblies. Our custom LED and CCFL backlight assemblies can help you save thousands of hours in labor and ultimately help you lower your equipment operating costs. Contact us today and let us find the best solution to meet your needs!

We offer a number of assemblies, all brand new and ready for drop in installation. All our assemblies are complete including CCFL lamps, JST wire harnesses, silicone end caps, and shrink tube. Search here for CCFL assemblies for monitors by manufacturer and LCD panel model. These LCD screen brands are used by all major monitor and laptop manufacturers such as HP, Dell, Hannspree, Asus, Lenovo, Samsung, Toshiba, and Apple.

Listed by LCD Panel Manufacturer. In order to determine the LCD panel used in your monitor, you will need to remove the screen and locate the make and model from the label located on the back of the screen.

Backlight circuit failure can also occur from damage to the electrical traces on the circuit board. If the electrical traces buried in the board are inadvertently severed—for example, from trying to fasten the board with too large a screw—the backlight circuit will not conduct power to the backlight LEDs.

A screen that gets gradually dimmer, a monitor that flickers when you turn it on, or a display that flashes before going dark are all indicative of an LCD with a failing backlight. Most LCD screens require a third-party backlight, so at some point, you’ll need to deal with lamp failure for your screen.

Generally, replacing the backlight on your Samsung TV will cost you between $100-$200. Usually, this is significantly less than what you paid for the TV, so it is definitely worth it, especially if nothing else has gone wrong.

TV backlight repair costs $100 to $122, including replacement parts and labor, at a repair shop. In-house repair costs are more due to trip fees. The price of backlight replacement parts averages around $2.50 for each LED and between $20 and $25 for each CCFL strip.

To replace one LED backlighting strip, the price ranges from $100 to $125, including parts and labor. Older televisions cost more to repair. Parts for these TVs may be difficult to find. Also, parts for TVs that are 42 inches or bigger are more expensive.

Be very careful with the panel as it is extremely fragile! Now that LCD panel is removed, we can remove the bezel that maintain the backlight diffuser and access the backlight itself. Here we can see that the backlight system is made of LEDs which is pretty simple to replace when being the cause of the failure.

From a component standpoint, this TV features a lot of parts, but generally, the LEDs in its backlight are probably going to fail first. The average lifespan of an LED at maximum or close-to-maximum brightness is 40,000 to 60,000 hours, or roughly 4.5 to 6.8 years.

It is worth it to repair your TV if the cost of the repair is significantly cheaper than the cost of buying a new TV. The most expensive repair for a flat-screen TV is usually a cracked screen — this repair tends to cost more than a replacement TV for all but the largest screen sizes.

It is worth it to repair your TV if the cost of the repair is significantly cheaper than the cost of buying a new TV. The most expensive repair for a flat-screen TV is usually a cracked screen — this repair tends to cost more than a replacement TV for all but the largest screen sizes.

Replace the HDMI cable as it may have a short or another defect which causes the black screen issue. Unplug the TV for 5 minutes to attempt a reset. Unplugging the TV will reset the television and clear any temporary issues. Factory reset of the TV to resolve the issue.

If it’s a backlight or power supply problem, it can be fixed. Usually, the problem stems from the high voltage inverter circuitry, either bad power transistors, capacitors, or thermal stress on the circuit board leading to broken solder joints. But fixing these problems can often be a short term solution.

More importantly, you can do so without having to worry whether or not you have to buy a fully new TV! If your TV panel is still in one piece, meaning a brick hasn’t gone through the screen there is a good chance it can be repaired!

But despite being advanced systems, Vizio TVs sometimes fail to work, and you get many errors when using them. Many Vizio TV user complaints revolve around the device screen flickering constantly, SmartCast failing to load, and the TV turning on but not showing pictures.

A Vizio TV screen may go black due to features such as ‘Screen Mute’ or ‘Sleep Timer’. It may also be a result of a loose/faulty connection, power issues, software error/bug or broken hardware. Most issues can be fixed by updating or resetting the TV, securing all cable or changing the TV settings.

LCD TVs have been used for a long time, and there will always be big and small problems. The problem we often encounter is LCD TV backlight failure. I believe this term sounds very rusty, but it doesn’t matter. Next, let’s listen to the editor to analyze it in detail. Analysis, you know how to repair the LCD TV backlight failure.

During maintenance, I have also seen that the lamp in the screen is damaged; when the screen is turned on, the sound is normal. This phenomenon is the bad digital board, and the second is the bad internal connection.

There is no sound when booting up, the power light flashes once and turns into a constant light, and the screen flashes white light at the moment of booting. This fault is mostly caused by damage to the backlight driver board.

The backlight is turned off when the LCD screen is on when the AC is turned on. At this time, the sound, remote control, and panel button control functions are all normal. This phenomenon is caused by the backlight circuit protection, and the reason is mostly the abnormal power supply of the backlight booster board. For the CCFL backlight circuit, if a certain backlight tube is open (usually the circuit protection caused by the opening of the lamp socket on the backlight booster board or the socket is not plugged tightly) or a certain lamp tube breaks can cause the above failure .

The LCD TV"s backlight switch has no change, and the sound, remote control, and panel button control are all normal. Then this fault needs to detect the following working conditions: the power supply of the backlight booster board circuit, the common large screen is 24 volts, a few use 120 volts, and the small screen is generally 12 volts; the backlight booster board output by the CPU control circuit The switching control signal of the oscillator is usually a high-level start, and most of it is a three to five volt lamp lighting control signal. If all the above working conditions are met, the backlight booster board can be replaced. If the backlight booster board is replaced, the failure remains the same, mostly because the backlight tube in the LCD screen assembly is damaged.

The above is what Xiaobian shared for you when you encounter LCD TV backlight failure, I hope it will help you. We are a TV backlight solution provider, LED TV (CKD/SKD solutions/products from 18.5 inches to 75 inches), welcome to consult. Promote your main product "China Manufacturer 18.5inch LED TV CKD/SKD backlight solution and kits LED bar supplier" "Wholesale OEM ODM 23.6inch LED TV CKD SKD Kits LED backlight solutions"

My TV recently turned off the backlight. Sound works and with the flashlight I can see the picture. I pulled out the power cord, after a few hours I tried again, worked fine, after about 5 minutes the backlight turned off again, the sound is fine and the flashlight test too. I noticed that if I let it be without power cord around 24 hours, the light will work for about 10 or 15 minutes before it turns off. When the light is working then the LED switch has 111.3-114.6 volts, but when it turns off, it is 144.6 volts. I also tried factory reset, not help.

Visually does not see the traces of burning on the power supply. And when the backlight is on, I don"t see dark spots on the screen, all the LEDs seem to work.

TV repair costs between $60 and $350 with most spending $207 on average for LCD, LED, plasma, and 4K TVs; costs are higher if repairing older DLP, projection, and HD TVs. TV problems like display issues, powering-on problems, or sound issues can be fixed. Pickup and delivery fees may apply.

The cost to repair a TV will include the price of parts and labor costs, plus other associated costs. Additional charges include a trip fee for a technician to come to your home, a fee to transport your TV to and from a repair shop, and the diagnostic fee to determine what needs to be replaced.

The cost to repair a TV screen can be significantly more than the cost of purchasing a new TV. For this reason, replacing or repairing a broken TV screen is not considered feasible.

Broken TV screen repair is not a service offered by most TV or electronics repair companies. For example, BestBuy"s 90-day warranty, does not list broken TV screen repair as one of the problems they service.

Unless you are trying to fix a TV from the ’80s or earlier, cracked TV screen repair is not feasible; the entire display panel must be replaced instead. The cost of a replacement TV display panel is more than the cost of buying a new TV, and that’s before labor and other service costs.

The cost of TV screen replacement is generally the same as or more than the cost of buying a new TV. Therefore, replacing a broken or malfunctioning TV screen is not considered a viable option. If the TV is under the manufacturer’s warranty, the manufacturer may replace the entire unit.

TV manufacturers do keep replacement TV screen panels on hand to support products under warranty in case the screen malfunctions, due to manufacturer defect.

If you still want to replace a damaged or malfunctioning TV screen, your best option is to find a used replacement panel or a broken TV of the same model on which the screen is still functional. You might find one on eBay, and you can hire a technician to change out the panel.

The cost of a used replacement TV panel ranges from $50 to $350 or more, excluding shipping, depending on the brand and size. Note that the chances of finding exactly the part you need in excellent condition are slim, and the cost excludes the cost of installation by a repair shop.

Whether your TV is LCD, LED, plasma screen, or 4K (Ultra HD), the cost to fix common problems ranges from $60 to $350, depending on the repair type and the brand of TV being repaired.

These repair problems could have more than one possible source, so a technician should take time to narrow down the exact problem. TVs are repaired by replacing faulty components.

A TV inverter repair costs $104 to $171, including parts and labor, with an average cost of $138 for a TV with one inverter board or $178 for two. Parts range from $7 to $74, and the average labor cost for TV inverter repair is $97 per hour.

The function of an inverter board in a TV is to power the backlight of the screen. The inverter board requires a few hundred volts of power. If the inverter board goes bad, this would cause the TV to power on and have sound but no picture.

When an inverter component goes bad, it is usually replaced rather than repaired. In some cases, the capacitors on a converter board fail, and a technician can fix it by replacing the capacitors rather than replacing the entire inverter component. However, if an entire inverter board replacement is not available for the model of TV being repaired, replacing the capacitors may be the only option for TV inverter repair.

A flat-screen TV bulb replacement costs between $60 to $115, with most homeowners spending $84 for parts and labor. The price for replacement bulbs ranges from $18.50 to $80.

If an older model LCD TV or projection TV powers on and has sound but no picture, this may be due to lamp burnout, which is both common and expected. In this case, replacing the bulb will fix the problem. An experienced technician should be able to replace the bulb quickly and easily.

TV backlight repair costs $100 to $122, including replacement parts and labor, at a repair shop. In-house repair costs are more due to trip fees. The price of backlight replacement parts averages around $2.50for each LED and between $20 and $25 for each CCFL strip.

If the CCFL strips for your TV are no longer available, a technician can convert the backlight from CCFL to LED using the same number of backlighting strips. Each strip of LEDs costs between $12 and $30.

A new inverter may be needed to power the LEDs, costing between $7 and $74before labor, or an average of $40. In some cases, a repair shop can convert a CCFL backlight to LED without installing a new inverter.

Backlight failure in a TV may also be due to failure of the power inverter that supplies power to the backlight. In rare cases, both the inverter and the lighting components fail.

Repairing a TV power supply board costs $23 to $234 for parts alone. Completely replacing the power supply board costs $250 for parts and labor. If one capacitor has failed, the cost for replacement capacitors is low. However, it’s more cost-effective for the technician to replace the entire board rather than spend time trying to diagnose and replace faulty capacitors one by one.

TV capacitor repair costs $60 to $129, including parts and labor. The cost for the replacement part ranges from $0.06 to $14, with the labor portion ranging from $60 to $125 per hour. TV capacitors protect the circuit from getting too much power, filter signals, and facilitate changing channels.

Flat screen replacement glass is not available. The only option for flat-screen TV glass repair is to try optical glass glue, which costs $1.70 for a 5-ml. tube. This may be an option for TV glass repair if the crack is only a few inches or less. TV panels are built as one unit at the factory, with the glass adhered to the display panel.

In-home CRT repair ranges from $199 to $249. The cost of repairing a CRT picture tube ranges from $199 for a TV that is 27 inches or smaller to $249 for a TV that is 28 inches or larger.

A TV fuse repair costs between $61 and $136, with most spending $99 on average. The cost of the replacement fuse itself is $1.50 to $11, while labor ranges from $60 to $125 per hour. Additional fees may apply.

LCD flat-panel repair is not considered cost-effective. If the glass is cracked or the display is physically damaged, it is cheaper to replace the entire TV than to repair or replace the display panel.

Estimating TV repairs costs by brand is not something TV repair shops offer, however, there are general prices by type. When looking for specific repair costs for your TV, you’ll find them in the common repairs price list above. Pricing applies to brands such as Samsung, LG, Sanyo, TCL, Insignia, HiSense, Sony, Toshiba, Pioneer, and Vizio.

More popular TVs are usually less expensive to repair because repair shops order replacement parts for them in bulk, which allows them to buy those parts at a lower cost.

The cost of flat-screen TV repair ranges from $42 to $359. You cannot fix a broken screen, but the price of a new flat-panel TV starts from around $249 for a 1080-mp (non-4K) LED TV from LG to as much as $14,999 for an 85-inch 8K LED TV from Samsung. A TV referred to as a “flat TV” or “flat-screen” TV might be any of the following:

LCD TV repair typically costs $60 to $85 for diagnostics testing, and $200 to $300 to perform repairs. LCD TVs use backlighting, which may fail. Newer LCD TVs use LED strips for backlighting. Older ones might use CCFL. If CCFL backlighting fails, a technician can replace it with LED backlighting.

An LED TV is just an LCD TV that uses LED backlighting, which all newer models do (older models use CCFL backlighting). The cost to replace one LED backlighting strip ranges from $100 to $122, including parts and labor.

The cost to replace the motherboard, inverter, or LED"s in a 4K TV ranges from $100 to $275 or more depending on the brand and model. The cost for screen repair for a 4K TV is irrelevant because it cannot be fixed or replaced at a cost that is lower than the cost of a new 4K TV.

Digital light processing (DLP) TVs are also known as projection TVs. DLP big screens have not been made since 2012, and DLP TV repair is usually not worth the cost except for a lamp burnout, in which the bulb can be replaced. The cost to replace bulbs ranges from $60 to $115.

TV repair shops charge an average $60 to $125 per hour, or a flat rate of $50 to $250, which includes the diagnostic fee. Additional costs after that depend on the repairs needed and the brand and type of TV. However, most stores will have a minimum charge of about $90.

Best Buy TV repair is provided through the Geek Squad TV & home theater service. Geek Squad TV repair starts at a base cost of $100 for a diagnostic fee. TV repair is covered under Best Buy’s protection plan, which costs $280 per year when you purchase a TV from Best Buy at the time of purchase, or within the return period printed on your receipt.

The brand and model of your TV will dictate the final repair cost, with more expensive brands and larger TVs costing more to repair. Consider the remaining lifespan of the TV before paying for repairs. You can now buy bigger TVs with more features and better displays for a TV that won’t need repairs for a while and probably comes with a warranty.

The cost of labor to fix a TV ranges from $60 to $125 per hour, or a flat rate of $90 to $299. If the work is performed in your home, the cost ranges from $25 to $125 per hour plus the trip fee. Most TV repairs take 1 to 3 hours if the repair specialist has the parts already.

If you live in a remote area, you may need to ship your TV to a repair facility, costing $99 to $175. Be sure to choose a delivery service that allows you to track the shipment and confirm delivery. When sending your TV into a service center for repair, you will be contacted regarding the associated costs and asked to process payment before the repair is completed, which usually takes two weeks including the shipping time.

Many TV repair shops charge a diagnostic fee that ranges from $20 to $60, depending on whether it is done in your home or the repair shop. Some shops charge a flat fee that ranges from $50 to $250that covers both the diagnostic cost and labor cost. In many cases, the initial diagnostic fee will be applied to the repair cost if you have the shop do the repair.

The more expensive a TV is, the more sense it makes to purchase an additional warranty to defray the potential for costly repairs. Best Buy offers an $89 five-year extended warranty for entry-level TVs. On larger TVs such as the 85-inch Samsung QLED 8K TV, which costs $14,998, the five-year warranty from Geek Squad costs an additional $1,699—11.33% of the cost of the TV.

With modern TVs, repair entails component replacement or replacement of capacitors, for which high levels of certification are not necessary. Generally, TV repair shops will let you know if their employees have certification.

Satellite dish repair is either covered by your satellite service company or the cost for a technician to fix it ranges from $80 to $150. Repairs may also be billed at an hourly rate of $50 to $65.

There are various ways you might be able to save money on TV repair. These include transporting your TV to a repair shop, using a shop that charges in 15- or 30-minute increments, diagnosing the problem yourself, using salvaged parts, and doing the repair work on your own.

You can also consider the cost of TV repair when purchasing a new TV. More popular TV models are less expensive to repair because repair shops buy parts for the most common TVs in bulk and are therefore able to get them at lower prices.

Inverter is bad -It is possible that the inverter, which powers the backlights, has gone bad and needs to be replaced. It’s also possible that one or more capacitors on the inverter have gone bad, in which case a technician may be able to replace capacitors more cheaply than replacing the entire inverter.

Lamp burnout -In a projection TV or older LCD TV, no picture may be caused by lamp burnout. In this case, a technician can replace the bulb quickly and easily.

The primary way to save money on TV repair would be to perform the work yourself. This may require you to purchase and get familiar with various tools such as soldering tools, and methods for replacing a capacitor or some other component.

The right parts - It can be complicated to determine which component of a TV is failing and causing the TV not to work correctly. If you buy a replacement part and perform the repair yourself, the TV may still not work, either because you replaced the wrong part, the part was old and not working properly to begin with, or you did not perform the work correctly. Buying multiple replacement parts can become costly.

The cost of repairing a TV could be as much as $500 if multiple repairs are needed. Consumer Reports recommends not to spend more than 50% of the cost of a new TV repairing the old one.

If you have a newer TV that cost thousands of dollars, having it repaired would most likely be cost-effective. If the TV only cost a few hundred dollars to begin with, replacing the TV is more likely to be the best option.

Not included in these prices from Best Buy are 1080P screens, which range from $249 to $279 for 43-inch TVs from brands like Samsung, Sony, and LG. On the upper end, Sony and Samsung both have 95-inch 8K LED TVs for $69,999.

In most cases, a flat-screen TV can be fixed. The exception is a physically damaged display panel or screen. Most other issues including failing speakers, backlights, or power supply. Burned out fuses and damaged input ports can also be repaired.

If the screen is not physically damaged but is not showing a picture or is displaying “snow’” or vertical or horizontal lines, a technician can repair the TV by replacing failed components. If the screen is physically damaged, it cannot be repaired.

You cannot replace a broken flat-screen display. New TVs costs anywhere from $249 for a 1080P (non 4K) LED TV from LG to as much as $14,999 for an 85” 8K LED TV from Samsung.

If you live in a remote area, you may need to ship your TV to a repair facility, costing $99 to $175. Be sure to choose a delivery service that allows you to track the shipment and confirm delivery.

Note: If your MacBook Pro has any damage which impairs the service, that issue will need to be repaired first. In some cases, there may be a cost associated with the repair.

Hello… I have a dell latitude CPx laptop wtih the problem you described. The screen is still working but I can see only a very dull image. I do not find the lid close switch where you said it was. There is not any button close to the LCD screen, but the power button. Oh, this problem began when the laptop, into its briefcase,fell to the floor and slightly hit its back. Maybe is anything broken in it, like the backlight lamp or the video cable? I have not opened the laptop.

You cannot tell with part is failing the inverter board or the backlight lamp without testing the laptop with a known good backlight lamp (or inverter). I think you might have a dead backlight bulb because the laptop was dropped.

Hi, I think my back light inverter may be faulty. I’ve checked it with an external monitor and it’s OK. You can see the image on the laptop but it looks like every other vertical LED is not lit? ie if you look at the letter “S” it would look like a “$” I have a Compaq N800vp, product DJ125T. The question is, can I get a replacement back light or will I have to buy a whole laptop screen?

If you still can see the image on the laptop screen then the problem is not related to the inverter board or backlight lamp. When you have a dead inverter or backlight lamp, the whole LCD screen will be dark, not just some vertical lines.

I have a toshiba satellite M35X-S149 with what appears to be a bad LCD backlight. So i bought a “new” LCD screen to install. However, once I installed the screen, the same thing happened that the last screen was doing. The video would show up VERY faintly and the external video would work, but the backlight would not work. I tried switching inverter boards and nothing helped. I think I may have a grounding problem. I think i’m not putting the black wire with an “eye-hole” at the end in the right spot. Does anyone know where it goes? Please Help!

Last year the LCD light began flickering and I could hear a faint high-pitched noise. If I closed the monitor and re-opened to “wake” it back up, the light would work for a few minutes and then go out again. It eventually went out completely. Now, I can barely (barely!) see the screen (and as of a few minutes ago, for some reason I cannot get a screen at all). I have a desktop at home also, and tried to hook the monitor up to the laptop to no avail. I went through troubleshooting and cannot figure out why the laptop will not comply with the external monitor. I read through your posting and am a bit confused (I’m not good with the hardware aspect, so I’m clueless right now) so I’m hoping you have some insight…

So, you’ve replaced the LCD screen and the inverter board but still have no backlight? There might be a problem with the video cable. Also, it’s possible that you have something wrong with the motherboard but I doubt it because you have external video. I would try replacing the video cable next. Did you try reconnecting the video cable on the motherboard, just in case, to make sure it’s making a good contact with the motherboard?

Last year the LCD light began flickering and I could hear a faint high-pitched noise. If I closed the monitor and re-opened to “wake” it back up, the light would work for a few minutes and then go out again. It eventually went out completely.

This hight pitched noise and flickering screen could be caused by a faulty inverter board or failing backlight lamp. I would try replacing the inverter board first, you have a better chance to fix this issue. If it doesn’t help, you’ll have to replace the backlight (witch means replacing the LCD screen).

A few days ago I was troubleshooting a Dell Inspiron 600m with a similar problem. In my case the screen was making noise and it flickered as yours, but when the backlight was on, the white colors had reddish tone. I connected my test backlight lamp and it stopped flickering and the noise was gone. So in my case it was a faulty backlight lamp.

When your screen flickered, did you notice that white background had reddish tone? If it was normal white then most likely you have just a faulty inverter board. You’ll need more equipment (as spare backlight lamp or inverter board) to make troubleshooting more accurate.

I don’t like this one. So you had flickering screen/no backlight/faint image for a while and then it disappeared and now you have nothing? Could be a problem with the motherboard, video card, CPU or memory.

With the high pitched noise, especially if it’s coming from th elid, I’d suspect the inverter. You might check out the LCD troubleshooting flowchart I’m working on:

Before I order the inverter I would like to have one more question that might help if it is the lamp or the inverted. In the begining, before the screen is totaly black(not exactly black but with this shadow), sometimes suddently the light turned on until I switch off the laptop but next time again black. This hapenned for 3-4 times and then all black…This indicates if it is inverter problem or backlight lamp? Thank you…

It can be inverter or backlight lamp. You cannot tell until you test the laptop with a known good inverter or a known good backlight lamp. You’ll have to guess.

I would try replacing the inverter board first. There is a good chance to fix the problem and it’s way cheaper and easier then replacing the backlight bulb or the LCD screen.

After reading up on many websites, i figured i had inverter problem since my lcd was dim to the point where i couldnt see anything. I ordered the inverter from ebay and got it today. After replacing it, i noticed that the laptop works fine for few (2) seconds and then goes dim again. If i tap on the lcd close button, it again turns on for (2) seconds and then goes back dim.

Can I test a backlight bulb directly after buying without opening the whole screen?I mean can I connect it dirrectly to the inverter without the metal part for testing first and if it works then replace it?

I get the buzzing sound coming from the inverter and if I turn the brightness up the screen goes black and the buzzing stops. after it being on for awhile the left side of the lcd is slightly more dim than the right. external monitor works fine. Do you think its an inverter or bulb and if its the bulb where would i find one (inspiron 9400 – true bright screen) i found the inverter on ebay but can’t seem to see any bulbs maybe i’m not searching right. I want to know which it is before i shell out the money thanks

I am guessing that there is a cable to the screen problem, my unit works properly using an external crt but even while connected to the crt my laptop screen showes a medium white background with no other images. I can increase or decrease the brightness of the laptop screen using the function keys but still there is no image at all on the laptop screen only a uniform smooth white glow.

It’s very possible that there is connection issue between the vide cable and the LCD screen. I’ve seen this problem before. Reseating the video cable might fix the problem. You’ll have to take a look on the back side of the scree, that’s where this connector is located. Make sure the video cable is properly plugged into the connector on the screen.

I’ve been having problems with my backlight too. I have a Toshiba Satellite Pro M40 and the backlight acts strangely. Sometimes it will work fine, other times it will come on after a minute or two, and other times it will come on if I f**k around on the computer’s monitor settings. It has been doing this for about a year but I can always get it working in a few minutes before. But for the last few days it hasn’t turned on at all no matter what I do. I’ve known for quite some time that it was my screen itself because I sometimes have to use a flashlight to see to get to the monitor settings. I don’t plan on taking it apart but I’m grateful to posts like these that can help me pinpoint the problem to tell the repair shop.

I’m working on an Thinkpad A22m (2628-SSU) that was dropped. The LCD is displaying but only very, very faintly. I figured I could do an upper half replacement and ordered one from eBay. So far I have been unable to get the replacement to display anything. The damaged LCD panel is 1400×1050, while the replacement is 1024×768. Could that be the cause of my problems?

I have a toshiba satellie L25 S121. I dropped it and now the backlight isn’t working. I can barely see my desktop. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

2. Damaged backlight lamp (CCFL), in this case you’ll have to either replace the lamp (no easy) or replace the whole LCD screen (much easier but more expensive).

Yes, I purchased the whole LCD assembly. Lcd panel, inverter, cable, bezel, etc. I can’t get anything to display at all on the new assembly. I’ve tried changing several BIOS settings thinking that could be the problem, but still no joy!

BTW, what could be the problem with the old display? I am guessing since it was dropped that it is the bulb. The LCD panel is not cracked and still displays (although very darkly).

So back to the LCD assembly that I purchased that will not display anything, 1) it could be bad, 2) I could be doing something wrong… although I’m not sure what, or 3) it could be incompatible. Now that I think about it, it makes sense that the output from the video card needs to match the LCD panel. Will a 1024×768 panel work where a 1400×1050 once was? Thanks for the help.

The first weird behavior I noticed was the pinkish colors when my screen was just turned on and the colors were normal after a few seconds. I don’t remeber when was this behavior started, but I think it is at least for the last 2-3 months.

Disconnect the LCD screen on your laptop from the inverter board and plug the new screen instead. In this setup the video signal still goes to the old screen and you still should see a faint image on the old screen, but the inverter board will provide power for the backlight lamp inside the new screen. If the lamp inside the new screen is good, it should light up (I assume the inverter board is working fine).

Did you buy and swapped the whole display assembly or you bought all parts one by one? Did you try replacing parts one by one? First inverter, then LCD and finally the video cable.

Toshiba service replaces the LCD with 940 euros!!!!! Of course this is not an option, I better buy a new laptop. On ebay the price is much better, around 200 euros but then I am worrying if the screen will be ok after doing the long trip from USA or China to Greece.

OK… I think I have a good little problem for someone to try to solve. My laptop backlight wont light up. Everything works and looks great when I send the video to an external monitor (my TV). I can also see the picture on the laptop monitor if I look closely and use a flashlight. I replace the inverter board… didnt fix it. I took the lcd apart and I have a new backlight as well as the old backlight resting comfortably outside the lcd panel so that I can see it clearly. Here is what I see. Please Help. When I turn the laptop on, the backlight flashes once real quick, and thats all I get. I don’t know if the inverter I put in there is just another bad inverter board or if this is some sort of power supply issue or something else. Please Help

The LCD panel on my IBM ThinkPad T60 (model #1953-D9U) got cracked, but with the exception of a small 2″ square area where the damage occurred (white screen), I could still use the laptop with the screen open.

However, now that I have tried to replace the screen with a new one, I cannot get the new screen or the old one to light up. I thought I may have damaged the inverter, so I bought a new one and installed it. However, I am still not getting power from the inverter to the new LCD (no backlight) and the images on my old screen are very faint…as if it was a bad inverter. (FYI – The external video still works perfectly.)

I have not tried to replace the LCD cable yet (perhaps I damaged it when removing the old one?), because I am trying to find out where the “closed lid” switch would be on this model. (My old T30 had a mechanical switch that could be depressed, but this one doesn’t.)

Please tell me the best approach for troubleshooting this problem, and if it sounds like I may need to take or send it to a laptop repair shop. Thanks.

Let’s say you have the new LCD screen installed. Leave the data cable connected to the back of the screen but disconnect the cable witch goes to the inverter board and plug the old LCD screen instead. In this combination you still should see a very faint image on the new(installed) screen but the inverter board should light up the backlight inside the old screen. If there is no backlight, swap the inverter board and try again.

After that install the old screen back into the laptop. Connect the data cable into the slot on the back of the LCD, but plug the new screen into the inverter instead. In this combination you’ll get image on the old screen but the backlight will be on the new screen. If no backlight, try swapping inverters.

Also, you may try connecting LCD and inverter without mounting them inside the display panel case, maybe it’s grounding somewhere and will work outside the case.

If you still cannot get the backlight and your parts are supposedly good, apparently there is a problem either with the video cable or with the motherboard. Just in case check connection between the video cable and the motherboard located under the keyboard, maybe you accidentally pulled the cable.

I am having trouble with my satellite m35x-s111 lcd display. I can see the whole image, but the lcd brightness is very low. I also noticed that brightness is higher in the right side of the display. How can i know if the trouble is in the inverter module or in the backlight lamp? The lamp can be easily replaced? Thank you.

Unfortunately, I cannot tell you witch one is causing the problem. You’ll have to test the laptop either with another working inverter or another working backlight lamp.

It’s not easy to replace the backlight lamp because it’s located inside the LCD screen. You’ll have to take apart the screen. You can easily damage the screen if you have on experience with fixing laptops.

myToshiba M70-215 has faint light, i had taken to repair, they tried invertor and couldnt repaired. Now they take to far away for repair and send computer for that reason. The laptop works fine w/ external monitor, and vision on original screen is very faint , can be seen on very light environment. So i dont think my screen went totally off. However, the repairment men from where my computer send gave us estimated repair demage and cost claiming that LCD screen went off and screen need to be replaced and sure that cost 250 USD. I am having hard time to belive ( since laptop is not older than 2.5 years just after waranty end!!) that and never dropped, that screen went out. Ithey just wanted to suck me i have strong belive right now it is backlight lamb and not invertor.

As an expert would you confir me that if screen went off i would never get any vision on screen right ( besides i used to have loss of light or brightnes while computer works few months aga, any time i turn off computer then light was comming on scree. The final and resisting light loss happened while i am using computer, the vision sudenly gone, and screen can be hardly seen with carefull look. So just give me some expert information before i decide replace my LCD screen. Do you think it need to replace LCD screen or light bulb. We tested inverter by bringing new inverter from Toshiba but didint work.

would that be reason hard to replace light bulb ofr Toshiba M70-215 screen, so they might be asking for whole LCD replacement ? Is it easy to replace light back bulb, and what is the aproximate cost on that lamb?. Is there any visiual show of that light bulb might be?

I found out that repairmen is trying to sell me whole LCS screen. It is only problem is backlight lamb and since they dont carry the lamb he wants to sell me whole LCD secren w/lamb..So iwas right on. Besides same attitue Toshibe center has, they want to sell whole LCD screen for about USD500 when i told only backlight need to replace as other repairment diagnosed at distance, Toshiba center is even unaware or pretending as unaware there is even backlight lamb…so kind of ridiculus bussines going on here. Now i am going to on my own, try to collect proper lamb and fix it w/ myself or fix w/TV repari man who would do things more chepaer…

If a known good inverter didn’t fix the problem and the image on LCD screen is still very faint, most likely you have a problem with the backlight lamp (CCFL) inside the LCD screen.

It’s not easy to replace the backlight lamp because you’ll have to take apart the LCD screen. Most repair centers will not replace the backlight lamp, they will swap the whole LCD screen.

I Don’t think my screen problem is related to an inverter or a backlight. When I fire up the computer my screen flickers and depending on how I move the screen up and down it gets better/worse. I have a 1.5″ area top to bottom on Left hand side which remains uneffected but the rest of the screen is distorted. I took it apart and when I tap the top back of the screen with my finger it replicates the problem. This area is near the cable and the Green circuit board.

I’ve got Toshiba M70 with a slightly different screen problem. Everything works fine on an external monitor but with the laptop screen, at first it appears the screen is dead. The screen remains black when booting up, but if you look closely, it is noticable that there is light behind the screen, I just wasn’t getting an image. I started poking around and found that if I squeezed the top left corner of the screen, I got a nice bright image and the computer was working fine, my thumb gets really tired while surfing though. It has to be some sort of connection problem, but I just can’t find it.

I am having LCD issues with a Dell Inspiron 6000 laptop. I have replaced the inverter initially, and tried replacing the bulb with no success. There is still a ghost image on the original screen, and the laptop works fine with an external monitor attached. I finally broke down and got an aftermarket LCD screen, which works but is very

[…] First of all, take a closer look at the LCD screen. Look at the screen under bright light. It’s possible that the image is still on the screen but it’s very faint. If that’s the case, check out these tips for troubleshooting laptop with backlight failure. […]

i also managed to, idiot that i am, pull the LED cable along with the part it plugs into right off the system board. Please help screen is almost too dark to see. and with the keyboard problems i can’t perform fn up to brighten it up if that would even work with the led cable inoperative.

My problem sounds very similar … when i press the Lid close switch and then release it, the light comes back and the screen is well lite but only for a few seconds. it doesnt seem to be the backlight since when it does lite up it looks as usuall.

2. If you still have the same problem, probably the backlight lamp is bad. If that’s the case, you’ll have to replace the LCD screen. It’s possible to replace the backlight lamp inside the screen but it’s not easy.

My Dell laptop went black today, after flickering just a bit for the last week or so. From everything I’ve read, I’m thinking it is the inverter since it works with external monitor and it actually lit up once when I brought it out of the screensaver mode. I talked to the Dell tech support and finally got the guy to tell me one of the tests to try. It sounds crazy, but he said if you turn it upside down and then power up, if the screen lights up you know it’s not the backlight, so it’s likely the inverter.

Well, I didn’t power down, but closed the lid so it went to standby. I turned it upside down and then opened it and voila! the screen looked normal. The one thing I still wonder about is something I read about a failing backlight causing the inverter to shut itself down. That scenario isn’t proven or disproven with my test. So I guess I’ll get a cheap inverter and see what happens.

I had the same issue with the backlinght very dim on the lcd screen on a dell laptop. So I replaced the inverter but it had the same issue, then I went ahead and replaced the entire lcd screen with inverter and backlight and still had the same issue, so I tried moving the motherboard to another laptop and still had the same issue so I just replaced the motherboard and that worked.

Unfortunately, replacing the inverter didn’t fix my problem. I’ve gotten a replacement backlight, but it doesn’t have connectors as it was advertised, so I have to solder it. Since the inverter I bought was refurbished, I wondered what are the odds I got a faulty one?

Since I now have 2 inverters and 2 backlights, I should be able to test different combinations, but I only have one set of wires so it’s more difficult…

My Hewlit and Packard laptop screen stays completely blank and iits like its trying to keep starting up.No movement on the hard disk light on the front.Tried to get ti to go into safe mode by pressing F8 but nothing.Any ideas.Had this problem recently but then after doing the same thing of continualy waht sound like it was turning off and on the screen loading sign came on with the black background.This time nothing comes on at all!!!!!!

I have a Satellite Pro A10 with dim screen, I have tested the backlight and that works fine, I bought another inverter but nothing changed although this could be faulty too. I would like to know can anyone tell me where the lid close switch on this laptop is please. So that I can check this problem before buying yet another inverter. Thankyou

Last night, shut the top for the evening and this morning opened it to find a very very very dark screen. The display never recovered. However, with a flashlight you can see that the computer is functioning just fine. Its too weird peering into your LCD with a flashlight and seeing the image ‘somewhere in there’.

Inverter board or back light? Plugged the video output into the TV and got my desktop just fine (but its not a HDTV so the quality was crap). Ok, there’s a screen in there – but its like looking into deeply smoked glass.

My Service Manual shows an inverter board and a display assembly in the exploded parts view of the unit – but no back light or bulb? Customer service online chat just told me I needed to replace the display assembly part … but yikes! that is the entire LCD screen kit and kaboodle! Huge price difference between CCFLs and display assemblies!!!

So, in remembering what you taught was the purpose of the inverter board – that I believe is my prime suspect – because the screen went out completely without a long death period of that pinkish look.

I had a power pin fault (had loose connection with board circuit) and managed to fixed by removing the board and rejoined with soldering iron. then it works ok but the lcd display became blinking and then turned into negative film like colour (like a film negative shading-no original colour), some times turn to normal then go blinking…. like over lightening or bright light is over the normal screen.

I have an HP ze 5700, the screen kept blinking and finally failed. I installed a new inverter board a few months ago and it still blinks white with the background still there. Do I have a backlight promlem and how much is a new one.? I’m not very good at this and I dont want to spend a lot of money unnecessarily. I’m just a retired person.

Impressive site! I’ve got an asus s5a 12.1″ laptop, and my backlight falls out when I tilt my screen to far backwards. First the light on the left side goes out, then if I continue to tilt, also the right light goes dark. Do you have any idea where to start..? Thanks!

– Reducing the backlight power ( fn + [left arrow] ) makes the backlight last longer, for an hour so far. The flashes, however, continue and some of them are brighter than the screen should be. (Ignore that, it lasted for over an hour now, flashes disappeared)

Why does the “mechanical” switch (magnetic in this case) have a different effect on lighting up the screen than the software switch ( [fn] + [f6] ). Does the inverter have some kind of build-in protection? If so, what could be triggering it in this case?

I’m having similar problems as described by the many replies herein. My screen initially went black about two months ago. I could still see the image if the light in the room was turned on, and connecting my laptop to the TV produced a perfect image. Opening and closing the lid would bring the picture back, but only for either a split second or, at most, two or three seconds. Then, about a week later, I opened the lid one morning and the picture stayed on for maybe four or five days! This cycle repeated itself for the next few weeks. (It should be noted that during the periods when the screen stayed on there would sometimes be a slight flickering effect.) So I ordered a new inverter. The website I ordered it from did not have the exact part number I needed, but it did offer an inverter that was compatible with the part number of the original. After replacing the original inverter with the one I purchased, the longest the screen lasted before going black was maybe 30 seconds, AND I heard a buzzing noise that I did not hear with the original inverter. So I put the original inverter back in and for whatever reason the screen didn’t black out once for a good three weeks. Well, for the past week the screen is going black again. Opening and closing the lid did very little until I figured out that if I pressed my finger once into the screen bezel directly over the invert and then closed and opened the lid, the screen would stay on for hours at a time (in some instances, a day or more!). However, there was a new wrinkle: manually adjusting the screen’s brightness directly affected when and how the screen would go black. Adjusting to the dimmest screen setting would eventually result in screen flickers that, after a few seconds, would lead to the screen going black. Adjusting to the brightest screen setting would result in normal image functioning. This lasted three days. Now the screen is going black again. Opening and closing the lid produces an image for a few seconds, except now the left half of the screen is very dark while the right half looks normal. And the kicker: When I switch the original inverter with the one I purchased online, the entire screen lights up like normal but will still go black after 2 – 10 seconds go by.

So does this sound like a backlight issues (I have dual lamps)? Does it sound like I should try finding an inverter with the same part number as the original even though the one I purchases should have been compatible? Is it possible the one I bough online is faulty? Any suggestions would be supremely appreciated!

Your problem sounds either like a bad inverter or bad backlight lamp. Unfortunately, the only way to find the culprit is testing the laptop with a KNOWN GOOD part.

I would try installing a new inverter with the same part number. If you still have the same problem with the screen, most likely it’s bad backlight lamp.

Great article! I tried an test inverter, no change, tried a test backlight. New inverter does nothing with new backlight. Old inverter causes backlight to blink briefly during startup then nothing. Anyone seen this before?

Thanks for setting up a help website. I was just wondering how you take the panel of where the backlight is. Im going to attempt to fix my laptop when i get home. cheers

I replaced the backlight with a one that I got on ebay. I was actually a cracked lcd display. and I took the entire frame which had the backlight in it and replaced mine with it. I did this so that I would not damage the backlight trying to get it out of one frame and put it to another. After all this the screen was still the same. So is it the inverter ? If the inverter was faulty would it have burned the backlight? If its the case the one I replaced may have been burned as well. Do I need to replace both and see?

Ive justt recently been having troubles with my Toshiba Satellite m50..i have the same problem as the rest with my backlight..but it ocassionaly goes but then goes out after a while..ive unplugged an replugged the inverter thinking it could be a bad connection…any other ideas?? help would be appreciated thanx

I changed the inverter of my Toshiba laptop 3 weeks ago, just after I changed the inverter the screen started to flicker, first I thought that the problem was with the new inverter but then I realized that was with the back-light.

Hi, I found this site exremely intersting, making the complex world of laptops a tad easy. Coming to the issue of laptop display, Im facing some issues myself. The laptop display is dim, which happens a few secs after booting. It is very hard to make out whats on the screen. But the problem always occurs a few secs after booting, its perfectly ok before that. Dislay is fine on an external screen.

From this description it sounds that you have a problem either with the inverter board or backlight lamp. I cannot tell which one is causing the problem because both parts fail very similarly. The inverter would be my first guess.

Thank you. This is so helpful. I am trying to troubleshoot my Toshiba Qosmio F-15. I have a unreadable screen that goes between red and green garbled lines and black screen with garbled white symbols. I can kind of see some icons when I boot in safe mode. Your guide is helping me. Hopefully I can figure it out. I am thinking it has something to do with the fact that I actually used it for 2 hours one day. Ha!

Just until now it hasn´t been given any light from the screen, so i figured i would check to see if the cables where inserted correctly. They seemed fine, but when i booted up the laptop again the screen lit up, amazingly.

I just bought a Gateway MT6451 with a broken lcd. Ordered a new one, installed it and nothing. So I put the old one back in and that works. So I decide to test the inverter and backlight, both work. I then unlug the broken display backlight but leave the video cable hooked to the bad display, hook the new display’s backlight to the inverter. power up… backlight works…so while the laptop is on I unplug the broken lcd video cable and plug it into the new one…it worked. But only till I reboot. I did it like 6 time and it worked that way each time. Oh and the vga and svideo ports work also. Anyone know why its not turning my new lcd on?

Thank you. Before I had been wondering why my notebook screen looks a bit reddish on the sides when it’s running on battery. Now I know why, thanks to your article.

I have a HP Pavilion with a backlight problem, I first replaced the inverter and that didn’t work. Then a new display and again that didn’t work. Next the video/display cable which still didn’t help. Then the motherboard with no help. There is no visible lid close switch. Seems like one of these parts should have fixed it. I have had a dim display through all of this that can be seen using a flashlight. Any other ideas other that a new computer?

Did you try all possible part combination? For example, the old motherboard and old LCD with both new and old inverters, both motherboards with the old and new LCD/inverter, etc…

i think i have a similar problem, when i turn my laptop on the screen is up briefly, but it just goes black. if you hold it at a certain angle you can faintly see the background it is just so dark it appears black. i have dell xps about 3 years old..any idea if it would be the screen inverter board or something more serious?

I had the same problem with my DEll Inspiron 6000. The monitor went totally dark. I was not sure if it was the inverter or the backlight. The monitor was bright for a couple of seconds when the DELL logo pops up, and then went dark. There was no reddish tone on the screen and so I guessed that it was the inverter (which is much easier to replace compared to the backlight). Replacing the inverter worked for me and it only cost 10 bucks.

i broke my screen on my aspire 3630 so i bought and fitted a new one,but i cant get the backlight to light.windows loads up as normal but without backlight.i have tried the lid switch and this appears to be working fine(windows goes to standby)

i have changed the inverter and tried the screen in another laptop and it works fine.so i tried to connect it to a external monitor but it only goes as far as windows xp is loading then,external monitor goes off (no signal),but the laptop screen loads up as normal without backlight!

Dell Latitude C800 LCD problem intermittent, no 100% indicative of back light or inverter failure so I am wondering if the LCD screen could be faulty? The machine will run well for days and then this will crop up again. I’ve run an external monitor successfully to rule out adapter problems.

The only sign of back light failure (after educating myself via this site) is infrequent and very brief screen flickering from full illumination to black out…nothing in between.

Your description of notebook backlight failure is exactly my problem. The screen is not completely black. I tried the first suggestion, but even a quick flick of the lid button, the notebook went into hybernation. When I started up notebook again the screen is fully lit. I tried closing down my notebook again, but on restart the same problem occurs each time, but when I depress the lid switch button and restart from hyberantion the screen is fine. Any idea what the problem is???

I am having trouble with my Toshiba laptop screen. It was very dark. I replaced the inverter & when I turned it back on it came on but then went dark again. I discovered that when I tapped the metal lid closed plate it would come back on. This worked for a few hours but now it is dark again & tapping does no good. Do I need to replace the lid closed plate, the backlight, screen, or is it possible I have damaged the new inverter by tapping on the plate too much?

Ultimately, the computer works fine except the LCD screen. It works with an external monitor, and when the lid closes it hibernates so it is not a lid switch issue. The screen is dead black, no image at all so I am trying to narrow it down to power supply, inverter or backlight. It’s a 3-year old Toshiba Satellite A105.

The weird part is that the dim image shrink to 60% to the left. Other 40% is just blank image. I don’t have any invertor or CCFL lamp to test on. But I guess the whole lcd is the best way.

Hi tech guru…I was wondering if you can you help me figure out whats up with my dark screen. I can see everything but its just too dark… I have a dell inspiron 6000 and I accidently dropped it from my counter top. I have replaced the backlight and the inverter and still have a dark lit screen. My case looks exactly like your first picture on this page. I have also used an external monitor to test the video card and it works just fine. What can it be? Thanks in advanced!

Question about backlight testing – Should a good backlight have continuity across it’s terminals if it’s good? I was assuming yes, but all the backlights that I tested (1 out of 5 was good for sure) had no continuity when tested with an ohmmeter.

hi there i think i have a Philips 15NB57 series. i think my problem lies within the backlights hinge sensor as the screen its self works fine and i get a display through an external monitor. the backlight switches on for a split second during startup and also will do when inserting or removing the connection for the external monitor it will also come on when the lid is in a near closed position but only briefly again. is there anyway i can bypass the hinge sensor through the settings or is it something i’ll have to get repaired? (am using vista if that helps)

Thanks for the useful site. I have a laptop which half the screen is completely black (the bottom half). When I connect the laptop the external monitor, it is no problem to display to external display. SOmetimes when I open and close the lid, it works fine but after a while, the bottom half of the screen freezes (i can not move my mouse over it).. I opened the laptop and check all

My problem is a little different from others I’ve read. After turning on the unit and heating up for 10 minutes, I get a small semi-circular black spot that appears in the lower right hand corner of the screen. It appears as about the size of a thumb print. It will remain and after the unit runs for additional 10 minutes or so, the screen will start to “flicker” and become distorted. I have not just left it on to see if it will go totally black. After shutting off and cooling then restarting, the screen is clear until it warms up again. Would this be