lcd panel raspberry pi 2 quotation

some jokes (dark jokes preferably, because I"m a horrible human being) displayed from JokeApi. I basically copied the example script and started from there.

first of all let me say that I dont have any experience with a Raspberry, Arduino etc. at all, and also dont own any equipment yet. This is more a general question to the more experienced members here, so please bear with me if this comes across as a big unfocused

I have read through a lot of post here and other forums, and I found things similar to this (I found a post about random fortune cookie quotes), but those were all a bit more focused on the coding in itself, which is not really accessible to me (i have only very basic programming knowledge, and I am not sure if I have time to learn the basics fully). I am trying to catch up on everything myself, but thought that asking my be helpful. So I just wanted to ask for opinions on the following things:

2) Would it be very possible to do something like this without any knowledge with Arduino, maybe just by following tutorial on how to put out stuff in LED etc?

3) Is there are generally very well regarded resource for such tutorials? I have started reading the "Beginning with Raspberry Thread" here, but just in case I thought it might be good to ask.

Maker Conor O"Hanlon has shared a build guide for a Raspberry Pi Zero-powered motivational message dispenser, which uses an ePaper display to keep the power draw and desk glare down.

"The Covid-19 pandemic has been hard for everyone. Why not give yourself a break and create this unique Raspberry Pi Zero project," O"Hanlon writes by way of introduction. "This motivational quote bot will display a new quote every hour. It sits on my desk and gets me through the day."

The project is built around a Pi Zero W, which includes an on-board Wi-Fi and Bluetooth radio, connected to a Waveshare 2.13" ePaper Display HAT—an add-on that connects via the Raspberry Pi"s general-purpose input/output (GPIO) port and provides a small, low-power electrophoretic display panel.

I decided to build a similar gift from scratch, using a Raspberry Pi and a custom-built wooden housing. In this post I"m going to cover both the software and hardware side of how I designed and built a custom book quote clock!

Raspberry Pi 3A+ (Due to supply chain issues this was literally the only model I could acquire in time for Christmas. I would have preferred a more powerful model but it gets the job done)

You could get by without the usb-c adapters, but I really wanted a flush-mounted USB-C port on the back of the case. More on that later. Depending on the size of the case you end up building, you may need a right-angle adapter for the micro-USB cable. There wasn"t enough space in mine above the Raspberry Pi to use a normal straight-end cable.

I spent 80% or so of my time on the software for this device, and 20% on the rest of the tasks, so this was definitely the biggest chunk to get completed, though not the most challenging for me (woodworking is not my specialty so I was a bit nervous for that part). I started work on the software a while ago, and have been working on it off and on over the last few months.

The clock tells time in the 12-hour format. This means that there are 720 unique minutes that I needed to find a quote for. In addition, I wanted to have the quote correspond to the time of day as much as possible. For example, I didn"t want a quote that said "the time was three forty-five in the morning" to appear during the afternoon, and vice-versa. I also wanted as many choices as possible for each time, so it could be randomized such that the same time of day wasn"t always the same quote. This is no small ask; if I want just 2 quotes for the morning and afternoon for each time, that"s 2,880 quotes I need to come up with. I needed to find a way to automate finding these quotes.

Thankfully, I was able to use Project Gutenberg as my content source. I downloaded a large plaintext subset of the library, containing about 60,000 books at a size of around 16 gigabytes. The gutenberg-dammit repository on GitHub was a huge help by providing plaintext copies of Project Gutenberg through 2016. Now, I needed to find the quotes I cared about. Let"s break down a particular time, say, 3:37. There are many ways to represent this time in the English language:

You"d be surprised how many odd ways of telling time show up and I wanted to capture as many of them as possible. Across all times, I generated a total of 14,592 phrases to search for in each of the books. That means I needed to do 875,520,000 string searches to process all of Project Gutenberg into phrases indexed by the times they reference.

The search completed in about 24 hours and yielded a little over 500 or so of the required 720 unique minutes. Some of the times had dozens of possible quotes, some only had one. Not a bad start, and that"s well over half of the quotes already knocked out. I didn"t want to waste much time trying to optimize this search algorithm, since it was only going to run once and then it generated a JSON file of all the quotes for use in further processing.

As I mentioned above, this is running on a Raspberry Pi 3A+ (this is the square Raspberry Pi). It"s powerful enough for running my simple web app, but it"s a bit underpowered for my liking. If I could have, I would have bought a higher end model but with supply chain shortages this was all I could get, and it still cost me $50 (about double what it should).

It"s almost 2022, and I refuse to make anything that doesn"t work with USB-C. I wanted the clock to have a detachable power cord, so I bought a few little cables and adapters so I could add a flush-mounted USB-C port to the back of the casing that powered the Raspberry Pi via its micro-USB port.

I always image my Raspberry Pi SD cards using Raspberry Pi Imager. This little open-source tool does an amazing job of simplifying the process of formatting and imaging a card to boot a Raspberry Pi from.

The touchscreen I ordered came with some drivers that needed to be installed in order to get the touch system to work. I also installed a number of other utilities. The unclutter package is used to hide the mouse after half a second, so it doesn"t show on the display. I took bits and pieces from this tutorial on pimylifeup.com, which is a great resource for various Raspberry Pi instructional articles. I didn"t follow that guide precisely, but there were some great ideas I did use.

When the Raspberry Pi boots, it automatically starts a node server to serve the NextJS app, and then launches Chromium in kiosk mode so that the web page is visible full screen automatically. The boot process is a little slow but that"s not really a big deal since I don"t expect it to be unplugged a lot. I"m using pm2 to launch the node server on boot. I"ve found this to be the most reliable way to automatically launch a node process and keep it alive indefinitely in case of crashes.

One of the problems I ran into right away is that the Raspberry Pi 3A+ doesn"t have enough memory to run the production build of the application, so I have to copy over the production build using scp. Something like this:

cd booktime && rm -rf .next && npm run build && rm -rf node_modules && cd - && scp -r booktime/ pi@192.168.4.122:times && cd booktime && npm i && cd -

I"ll break down this command quick, what it does is clean the build directory, run a production build, remove the node modules (so we don"t waste time and space copying them to the raspberry pi), copies over the build using scp, and then re-installs the local dependences so it"s all set to run another build next time.

The web server is also running on an open port on the Raspberry Pi, so a cool side effect is that I can visit the device"s local address in a web browser to see what the clock display looks like at any time.

Designing and building the housing out of wood was the task I was least confident about, and had the most room for error. I purchased some small pieces of poplar wood and got to work measuring and cutting the pieces to make the 3 individual components - the front frame, the sides, and the back cover.

Most of these pieces were cut at 45° angles save for the back panel. Everything was glued together using a strong waterproof wood glue and clamped tightly for about an hour before being sanded, starting with 120-grit sandpaper and moving all the way down to 220-grit for a smooth finish.

After the pieces dried for another hour or so, I cleaned them off and stained them with two different colors - a darker brown for the front and a red for the side and back.

I wanted a bit of a rustic look for these pieces, so to achieve that I simply put a little bit of wood glue on the surface of the wood, and once dry sanded it down so it was smooth but not fully removed, leading to the lighter patches you can see above.

To complete the main portion of the housing, I glued the front frame onto the side pieces, and after a bit of drying did another coat in the red stain across the entire thing, so that the front matches the reddish tint but still comes out much darker in color.

Now we need to finish up the back cover. This piece doesn"t go all the way to the bottom of the case, to allow for some airflow since the display and Raspberry Pi will generate a small amount of heat.

This back panel is where I mounted the USB-C port. I drilled out a hole in the center of the panel, but my largest drill bit wasn"t quite the diameter of the USB mount I bought, so I took some sand paper on my Dremel and widened it slightly, smoothing it out at the same time. It"s important to go slowly doing this - the Dremel is very fast and will ignite the wood if you don"t take breaks to keep it cool.

Once the hole was ready, I stained the back panel with one additional coat to cover up any marks I made drilling and sanding the hole. Once it dried, I went ahead and glued it in the hole using some Loctite Superglue. It"s important to be careful here not to get glue inside the USB port - I covered it with tape to keep it protected while gluing.

The last step for the case was to determine how to attach the back. I ended up going with two small screws so that I could remove the panel down the road if I needed access to the Raspberry Pi. This also meant I didn"t need to put the computer inside before finishing the case, which you"d have to do if you wanted to glue the back panel on. I definitely don"t recommend the gluing route, as there are various reasons you may need access to the internals for maintenance.

Even though the hardest part was over, I was still not looking forward to mounting the display inside the case - it needed to be perfectly square and there was no real way to line it up from the back. I ended up just holding it in place and repeatedly flipping it over to look at the front while it was powered on. Once it was aligned, I used some hot glue to tack it down around the corners, and then applied a generous layer of rubber cement and super glue to fasten it securely.

When attaching the back, the USB port was a little too large to fit with the Raspberry Pi in the case. I took a Dremel tool to the backside of the port and removed all the excess plastic so it was thin enough it fit inside without putting too much pressure on the cords.

The Covid-19 pandemic has been hard for everyone. Why not give yourself a break and create this unique Raspberry Pi Zero project. This motivational quote bot will display a new quote every hour. It sits on my desk and gets me through the day.

You will also need an installation of Raspberry Pi OS on your micro SD card. If you are unsure of how to do this, please read the post How to Install an OS on the Raspberry Pi.

Start by pushing your Raspberry Pi Zero into the provided case. Note: Please make sure your SD card is removed before trying to fit the Raspberry Pi into this case. Failure to do this will damage the card

If you have already have a Raspberry Pi Zero and you don’t have header pins, you will need to solder these pins to your board. Otherwise, the Waveshare e-Paper screen should fit right on top of your Raspberry Pi. Getting the screen into place inside the case can be a little tricky.Do not force the screen on the Pi as you will bend the pins

Place the cover on top of the case and push firmly into place. After this, carefully insert the micro SD card back into the Raspberry Pi. The final assembly should look like below:

Power up the Raspberry Pi. You will now need to clone my Pi-Motivator repository. This repository includes the necessary Waveshare libraries, fonts and a file named quotes.json which is used to store the quotes:

Open motivator.py in the editor of your choice. I will be using vim for this tutorial. Start by importing json, random and textwrap. You will be using these imports to load in the quotes.json file, picking a random quote and wrapping the text to make sure that it fits on the screen,

And that’s it for creating this unique Raspberry Pi Zero project! As always, if you have any questions or comments please feel free to post them below. Additionally, if you run into any issues please let me know

Normally I use an external monitor for my Raspberry Pi projects. But this is rather bulky, and for a home automation project I want to have something smaller.

There are several display solutions on the market for Raspberry Pi today, but what finally convinced me was the Raspberry 7″ Touch Pi Foundation Display (https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/the-eagerly-awaited-raspberry-pi-display/) which I have ordered.

The Raspberry board gets mounted on top of the LCD board. There are multiple power options for the display, for now I’m using the 5V and GND from the Raspberry board:

With above setup, the Raspberry Pi uses the touch LCD as the default display. But sometimes it is good to have a larger screen. To switch back to the HDMI port by default, I need to edit the following line in /boot/config.txt:

Currently it seems that it is only possible to use a second monitor e.g. to play videos, see “Dual Display Usage” in https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/the-eagerly-awaited-raspberry-pi-display/. I have not found a way to have run two displays in true ‘extended’ mode. The latest information I have found on this topic is here: https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=108&t=120541

The 7″ Raspberry Pi foundation touch LCD is a cool extension for the Raspi, turning it into a kind of tablet computer. With the display frame and stand I can have it on my desk and do not need an extra keyboard, mouse and display. Using the Raspy with the touch display works well for larger UI item (buttons, menus), but is hard to use for smaller UI items like to minimize windows. For this, a wireless USB mouse or touch area is better. The virtual keyboard is better than nothing, but again for typing text a real keyboard is better.

I’m not so happy with the ‘bare’ Pi board on the backside of the LCD frame. I wanted to use the acrylic case (see picture at the beginning of this post), but the mounting screws were not long enough, so I first need to buy new mounting screws.

※Price Increase NotificationThe TFT glass cell makers such as Tianma,Hanstar,BOE,Innolux has reduced or stopped the production of small and medium-sized tft glass cell from August-2020 due to the low profit and focus on the size of LCD TV,Tablet PC and Smart Phone .It results the glass cell price in the market is extremely high,and the same situation happens in IC industry.We deeply regret that rapidly rising costs for glass cell and controller IC necessitate our raising the price of tft display.We have made every attempt to avoid the increase, we could accept no profit from the beginning,but the price is going up frequently ,we"re now losing a lot of money. We have no choice if we want to survive. There is no certain answer for when the price would go back to the normal.We guess it will take at least 6 months until these glass cell and semiconductor manufacturing companies recover the production schedule. (Mar-03-2021)

All the accessories listed below tier pricing need to pay.We won"t deliver until you select. Power adaptor should be 5V/2000mA in output and center pin for positive voltage and the outer shield for negative voltage .The temperature for controller RTD2660 would increase during working.That"s normal phenomenon,not quality problem.

ER-TFTV050A1-1 is 480x272 dots 5" color tft lcd module display with small HDMI signal driver board,optional capacitive touch panel with USB controller board and cable and 4-wire resistive touch panel with USB driver board and cable, optional remote control,superior display quality,super wide view angle.It can be used in any embedded systems,car,industrial device,security and hand-held equipment which requires display in high quality and colorful video. It"s also ideal for Raspberry PI by HDMI.

All the accessories listed below tier pricing need to pay.We won"t deliver until you select. Power adaptor should be 5V/2000mA in output and center pin for positive voltage and the outer shield for negative voltage.The temperature for controller RTD2660 would increase during working.That"s normal phenomenon,not quality problem.

ER-TFT090-3-3938 is IPS 9 " color tft lcd display with small HDMI signal driver board,1024x600 pixels,optional 4-wire resistive touch panel with USB driver board and cable,optional capacitive touch panel with USB controller board and cable. It"s superior display quality,wide view angle.

It can be used in any embedded systems,car,industrial device,security and hand-held equipment which requires display in high quality and colorful video. It"s also ideal for Raspberry PI by HDMI.

Connecting an LCD display to your Raspberry Pi is sure to take any project up a notch. They’re great for displaying sensor readings, songs or internet radio stations, and stuff from the web like tweets and stock quotes. Whatever you choose to display, LCDs are a simple and inexpensive way to do it.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you two different ways to connect an LCD to the Raspberry Pi with the GPIO pins. The first way I’ll show you is in 8 bit mode, which uses 10 GPIO pins. Then I’ll show you how to connect it in 4 bit mode, and that uses only 6 pins. After we get the LCD hooked up I’ll show you how to program it with C, using Gordon Henderson’s WiringPi LCD library.

I’ll show you how to print text to the display, clear the screen, position the text, and control the cursor. You’ll also see how to scroll text, create custom characters, print data from a sensor, and print the date, time and IP address of your Pi.

There’s another way to connect your LCD that uses only two wires, called I2C. To see how to do that, check out our tutorial How to Set Up an I2C LCD on the Raspberry Pi.

Most people probably want to connect their LCD in 4 bit mode since it uses less wires. But in case you’re interested, I’ll show you how to connect it in 8 bit mode as well.

In 8 bit mode, each command or character is sent to the LCD as a single byte (8 bits) of data. The byte travels in parallel over 8 data wires, with each bit travelling through it’s own wire. 8 bit mode has twice the bandwidth as 4 bit mode, which in theory translates to higher data transfer speed. The main downside to 8 bit mode is that it uses up a lot of GPIO pins.

In 4 bit mode, each byte of data is sent to the LCD in two sets of 4 bits, one after the other, in what are known as the upper bits and lower bits. Although 8 bit mode transfers data about twice as fast as 4 bit mode, it takes a longer time for the LCD driver to process each byte than it takes to transmit the byte. So in reality, there isn’t really a noticeable difference in speed between 4 bit mode and 8 bit mode.

If you’ve never worked with C programs on the Raspberry Pi, you may want to read our article How to Write and Run a C Program on the Raspberry Pi first. It will explain how to write, compile, and run C programs.

WiringPi is a C module that makes it easy to program the LCD. If you already have WiringPi installed on your Pi, you can skip this section. If not, follow the steps below to install it:

WiringPi has it’s own pin numbering system that’s different from the Broadcom (BCM) and RPi physical (BOARD) pin numbering systems. All of the programs below use the WiringPi pin numbers.

To use different pins to connect the LCD, change the pin numbers defined in lines 5 to 14. You’ll need to convert the WiringPi pin numbers to the physical pin numbers of the Raspberry Pi. See here for a diagram you can use to convert between the different numbering systems.

To use the LCD in 4 bit mode, we need to set the bit mode number to 4 in the initialization function (line 20 below). The following code prints “Hello, world!” to the screen in 4 bit mode:

By default, text is printed to the screen at the top row, second column. To change the position, use lcdPosition(lcd, COLUMN, ROW). On a 16×2 LCD, the rows are numbered from 0 to 1, and the columns are numbered from 0 to 15.

The function lcdClear(lcd) clears the screen and sets the cursor position at the top row, first column. This program prints “This is how you” for two seconds, clears the screen, then prints “clear the screen” for another two seconds:

Each LCD character is a 5×8 array of pixels. You can create any pattern you want and display it on the LCD as a custom character. Up to 8 custom characters can be stored in the LCD memory at a time. This website has a nice visual way to generate the bit array used to define custom characters.

To print a single custom character, first define the character. For an example of this see lines 12 to 19 below. Then use the function lcdCharDef(lcd, 2, omega) to store the character in the LCD’s memory. The number 2 in this example is one of the 8 locations in the LCD’s character memory. The 8 locations are numbered 0-7. Then, print the character to the display with lcdPutchar(lcd, 2), where the number 2 is the character stored in memory location 2.

Here’s an example of using multiple custom characters that prints the Greek letters omega, pi, and mu, plus thermometer and water drop symbols for temperature and humidity:

As an example to show you how to display readings from a sensor, this program prints temperature and humidity readings to the LCD using a DHT11 temperature and humidity sensor. To see how to set up the DHT11 on the Raspberry Pi, see our article How to Set Up the DHT11 Humidity Sensor on the Raspberry Pi.

Hopefully this helped you get your LCD up and running on your Raspberry Pi. The programs above are just basic examples, so try combining them to create interesting effects and animations.

If you have any problems or questions about installing the LCD or programming it, just leave a comment below. And don’t forget to subscribe to get an email when we publish new articles. Talk to you next time!

Rather than plug your Raspberry Pi into a TV, or connect via SSH (or remote desktop connections via VNC or RDP), you might have opted to purchase a Raspberry Pi touchscreen display.

Straightforward to set up, the touchscreen display has so many possibilities. But if you"ve left yours gathering dust in a drawer, there"s no way you"re going to experience the full benefits of such a useful piece of kit.

The alternative is to get it out of the drawer, hook your touchscreen display to your Raspberry Pi, and reformat the microSD card. It"s time to work on a new project -- one of these ideas should pique your interest.

Let"s start with perhaps the most obvious option. The official Raspberry Pi touchscreen display is seven inches diagonal, making it an ideal size for a photo frame. For the best results, you"ll need a wireless connection (Ethernet cables look unsightly on a mantelpiece) as well as a Raspberry Pi-compatible battery pack.

Several options are available to create a Raspberry Pi photo frame, mostly using Python code. You might opt to script your own, pulling images from a pre-populated directory. Alternatively, take a look at our guide to making your own photo frame with beautiful images and inspiring quotes. It pulls content from two Reddit channels -- images from /r/EarthPorn and quotes from /r/ShowerThoughts -- and mixes them together.

Rather than wait for the 24th century, why not bring the slick user interface found in Star Trek: The Next Generation to your Raspberry Pi today? While you won"t be able to drive a dilithium crystal powered warp drive with it, you can certainly control your smart home.

In the example above, Belkin WeMo switches and a Nest thermostat are manipulated via the Raspberry Pi, touchscreen display, and the InControlHA system with Wemo and Nest plugins. ST:TNG magic comes from an implementation of the Library Computer Access and Retrieval System (LCARS) seen in 1980s/1990s Star Trek. Coder Toby Kurien has developed an LCARS user interface for the Pi that has uses beyond home automation.

Building a carputer has long been the holy grail of technology DIYers, and the Raspberry Pi makes it far more achievable than ever before. But for the carputer to really take shape, it needs a display -- and what better than a touchscreen interface?

Setting up a Raspberry Pi carputer also requires a user interface, suitable power supply, as well as working connections to any additional hardware you employ. (This might include a mobile dongle and GPS for satnav, for instance.)

Now here is a unique use for the Pi and its touchscreen display. A compact, bench-based tool for controlling hardware on your bench (or kitchen or desk), this is a build with several purposes. It"s designed to help you get your home automation projects off the ground, but also includes support for a webcam to help you record your progress.

The idea here is simple. With just a Raspberry Pi, a webcam, and a touchscreen display -- plus a thermal printer -- you can build a versatile photo booth!

How about a smart mirror for your Raspberry Pi touchscreen display project? This is basically a mirror that not only shows your reflection, but also useful information. For instance, latest news and weather updates.

Naturally, a larger display would deliver the best results, but if you"re looking to get started with a smart mirror project, or develop your own from scratch, a Raspberry Pi combined with a touchscreen display is an excellent place to start.

Many existing projects are underway, and we took the time to compile six of them into a single list for your perusal. Use this as inspiration, a starting point, or just use someone else"s code to build your own information-serving smart mirror.

Want to pump some banging "toons" out of your Raspberry Pi? We"ve looked at some internet radio projects in the past, but adding in a touchscreen display changes things considerably. For a start, it"s a lot easier to find the station you want to listen to!

This example uses a much smaller Adafruit touchscreen display for the Raspberry Pi. You can get suitable results from any compatible touchscreen, however.

Alternatively, you might prefer the option to integrate your Raspberry Pi with your home audio setup. The build outlined below uses RuneAudio, a Bluetooth speaker, and your preferred audio HAT or shield.

Requiring the ProtoCentral HealthyPi HAT (a HAT is an expansion board for the Raspberry Pi) and the Windows-only Atmel software, this project results in a portable device to measure yours (or a patient"s) health.

With probes and electrodes attached, you"ll be able to observe and record thanks to visualization software on the Pi. Whether this is a system that can be adopted by the medical profession remains to be seen. We suspect it could turn out to be very useful in developing nations, or in the heart of infectious outbreaks.

We were impressed by this project over at Hackster.io, but note that there are many alternatives. Often these rely on compact LCD displays rather than the touchscreen solution.

Many home automation systems have been developed for, or ported to, the Raspberry Pi -- enough for their own list. Not all of these feature a touchscreen display, however.

One that does is the Makezine project below, that hooks up a Raspberry Pi running OpenHAB, an open source home automation system that can interface with hundreds of smart home products. Our own guide shows how you can use it to control some smart lighting. OpenHAB comes with several user interfaces. However, if they"re not your cup of tea, an LCARS UI theme is available.

Another great build, and the one we"re finishing on, is a Raspberry Pi-powered tablet computer. The idea is simple: place the Pi, the touchscreen display, and a rechargeable battery pack into a suitable case (more than likely 3D printed). You might opt to change the operating system; Raspbian Jessie with PIXEL (nor the previous desktop) isn"t really suitable as a touch-friendly interface. Happily, there are versions of Android available for the Raspberry Pi.

A resolution to the test screens that occur during reboot has been released as an app note. The app note can be found in the documents section of the product page here: https://www.crystalfontz.com/product/cfam800480b0050tc-800x480-raspberry-pi-dsi-tft-lcd

*For applications where the controller will be shut down or reset, an additional connection to the reset (RST) pin on the J3 header is required, and must be toggled during boot-up.

**Some versions of Raspbian the creators have inverted the display which can cause the touch screen to not track the same with the image. To fix this, add lcd_rotate = 2 to the config.txt

Waveshare 20109 - 5inch Capacitive Touch Screen LCD (H) Slimmed-Down Version, 800×480, HDMI, Toughened Glass Panel, Low Power Consumption - 5inch HDMI LCD (H) V4

Waveshare 11750 - 10.1inch Capacitive Touch Screen LCD (B), With Case And Toughened Glass Cover, 1280×800, HDMI, IPS Screen, Supports Raspberry Pi And PC, Low Power Consumption - 10.1inch HDMI LCD (B) (with case)

Inky wHAT is a 400x300 pixel electronic paper (ePaper / eInk / EPD) display for Raspberry Pi, a larger version of our popular Inky pHAT display, with more than 5x the number of pixels, and available in three colour schemes - red/black/white,...

Waveshare 22689 - 1.9inch Segment E-Paper Module, 91 Segments, I2C Bus, Ideal For Temperature And Humidity Meter, Humidifier, Digital Meter - 1.9inch Segment e-Paper Module

A high-resolution 8", IPS, 1024x768, HDMI display, with Pimoroni-made display driver board and keypad, that"s perfect for building into projects like arcade cabinets, or just use it as a handy display for your Raspberry Pi!

Build a full-featured media center capable of playing nearly all of your digital media using any 40 pin Raspberry Pi and the Media Center HAT Raspberry Pi touchscreen display. Native support in...

Inky wHAT is a 400x300 pixel electronic paper (ePaper / eInk / EPD) display for Raspberry Pi, a larger version of our popular Inky pHAT display, with more than 5x the number of pixels - red/black/white version.

If you"re looking for the most compact li"l color display for a Raspberry Pi B+, Pi 2, & Pi 3 (most likely a Pi Zero) project, this might be just the thing you need!

In honour of Raspberry Pi"s 10th birthday, we"ve fused a RP2040 microcontroller with an EPD display to make a stylishly monochrome, maker friendly, e-paper badge(r)...

The PWR will keep on and the ACT will keep blinking when the Raspberry Pi starts up successfully, in case both of the two LEDs keep on, it is possible that the image was burnt incorrectly OR the TF card was in bad contact.

Editors" note, Aug. 14, 2018: Originally published July 2, 2017, this article has since been updated to include new DAKboard features and an open-source alternative to DAKboard, MagicMirror.

For instance, a Raspberry Pi 3 Model B has a higher power requirement (2.5A) and, thus, necessitates a specific power brick. It will definitely still work, but a Raspberry Pi 2 Model B only requires 1.8A, and the Raspberry Pi Zero W requires 1.2A. These two models will work with modern, slim USB chargers, which often supply up to 2.4A. However, if you opt for the Raspberry Pi 2, you will also need to run an Ethernet cable to the board or opt for a WAN adapter.

The ideal board for the job is the £9.30 or AU$14.96) for the board. To set up and connect the Raspberry Pi, you will need a short HDMI cable and a microSD card of at least 8GB.

Finally, you will need supplies to mount the Raspberry Pi, the monitor"s power supply, all the cables and the female end of the extension cord on the back of the monitor. I used two-sided mounting tape. And I used duct tape to keep the excess cord attached as tightly to the back of the monitor as possible.

Typically, there isn"t enough room to install a Raspberry Pi inside the original backplate -- unless you"re using a Pi Zero W. Even then, the excess cords and the power supply for the monitor won"t fit. The monitor will sit closer to the wall without the back cover, so it"s best to discard it.

Connect the Raspberry Pi to the HDMI port on the monitor and -- without plugging in the extension cord -- connect the power cables to both the Raspberry Pi and the monitor. Use this to figure out the best layout of all the parts to keep everything as slim as possible.

As for the picture-hanging wire, there were no decent places to connect on the Dell monitor I used, so I drilled one hole on either side of the rear bezel that held the back cover on. This is where you might have to get creative, since no two monitors are the same.

Surprisingly, this project doesn"t require any special code for the Raspberry Pi. In fact, it will be running on Raspbian OS, a Linux distribution specifically for the Raspberry Pi.

DAKboard is the web interface used to display all the information on the monitor. It can be set up from the Raspberry Pi or from a computer, phone or tablet.

The idea is that, when powered on, the Raspberry Pi will automatically boot to your DAKboard. If you want to hang the monitor vertically instead of horizontally, you will also need to rotate the display.

First, power on the Raspberry Pi, open Terminal and type in sudo raspi-config. Once in the configuration tool:Go to Boot Options > Desktop Autologin Desktop GUI and press Enter.

Finally, to force the screen to stay on and automatically boot with dakboard.com loaded in Chromium, type sudo nano ~/.config/lxsession/LXDE-pi/autostart and press Enter. Inside nano, add these four lines (without the bullet points):@xset s off

Once the Raspberry Pi has fully rebooted, use a connected mouse and keyboard to log in to DAKboard. Click Login and enter your credentials. Your DAKboard should load with your previously configured settings. If you want to change anything, click the settings cog in the upper right corner of the display (move the cursor to make it appear).

Hang the monitor on the wall and you"ll have yourself a digital clock and calendar, the week"s forecast, important headlines and beautiful pictures on display all day.

DAKboard is a great way to set up a Raspberry Pi display in a hurry. It"s easy and user-friendly and it looks great. However, it has its limitations and encourages users to upgrade to Premium to unlock the best features.