how to turn on lcd screen on canon 80d factory

Do not point the camera toward an intense light source, such as the sun or an intense artificial light source. Doing so may damage the image sensor or the camera"s internal components.

* In addition to the above, the icons and symbols used on the camera"s buttons and displayed on the LCD monitor are also used in this article when discussing relevant operations and functionality.

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-Even if a low ISO speed is set, noise may be noticeable in the displayed Live View image under low light. However, when you shoot, the image recorded will have less noise. (The image quality of the Live View image is different from that of the recorded image.)

-If the light source (illumination) within the image changes, the screen may flicker. If this happens, exit Live View shooting and resume Live View shooting under the actual light source.

-If you point the camera in a different direction, it may throw off the Live View image"s correct brightness momentarily. Wait until the brightness level stabilizes before shooting.

-If there is a very bright light source in the image, the bright area may appear black on the LCD monitor. However, the actual captured image will correctly show the bright area.

-During Live View shooting, certain Custom Function settings will not take effect. For details on Custom Function settings, refer to the instruction manual supplied with the camera.

-If the attached lens has an Image Stabilizer and you set the Image Stabilizer (IS) switch to , the Image Stabilizer will operate at all times even if you do not press the shutter button halfway. The Image Stabilizer consumes battery power and may decrease the number of possible shots depending on the shooting conditions. If you use a tripod or if the Image Stabilizer is not necessary, it is recommended to set the IS switch to .

-The focus preset function is possible for Live View shooting only when using a (super) telephoto lens equipped with the focus preset mode released in and after the second half of 2011.

-If Live View shooting is used continuously for a prolonged period, the camera"s internal temperature may rise, and image quality may deteriorate. Always exit Live View shooting when you are not shooting.

-If you shoot a long exposure while the camera"s internal temperature is high, image quality may deteriorate. Exit Live View shooting and wait a few minutes before shooting again.

-If the camera"s internal temperature is high, the quality of images shot with high ISO speed or long exposure may deteriorate even just before the white [

-In magnified view, the shutter speed and aperture will be displayed in red. If you take the picture in magnified view, the exposure may not come out as desired. Return to the normal view before taking the picture.

-If the light source (illumination) changes while the Live View image is displayed, the screen may flicker and focusing may be difficult. If this happens, exit Live View shooting and perform AF under the actual light source under which you are shooting.

So today all of a sudden in the middle of shooting I noticed the LCD didn"t switch on when I press any of the buttons for AF point selection, ISO etc. I can make the LCD light up by pressing Q, but nothing else.

I don"t think so. Most of the time, while shooting, one of my eye is placed close to the OVF and most adjustments are graphically presented in the OVF for me to see, and the LCD continues to stay off.

I don"t think so. Most of the time, while shooting, one of my eye is placed close to the OVF and most adjustments are graphically presented in the OVF for me to see, and the LCD continues to stay off.

I did work that way until today. The LCD IS supposed to light up when you press an appropriate button, like the AF selection for example. It just stopped working in the middle of shooting. I don"t get it.

So today all of a sudden in the middle of shooting I noticed the LCD didn"t switch on when I press any of the buttons for AF point selection, ISO etc. I can make the LCD light up by pressing Q, but nothing else.

The 80D isn"t a Rebel. The 80D isn"t designed to have the rear lcd be on all the time showing shot settings. Sounds like you changed a setting that stops using the rear lcd for shot settings. The top lcd is fir shot settings.

I think you might want to press info once or twice - to see if maybe that is what you are looking for.  I think info selects several modes -which might be what you had before.  An inadvertent press of info could be your problem.

What I am talking about is that the LCD IS supposed to turn on when I press (for example) the AF button, and the screen with AF point selection is supposed to show up. When I press that button (and others with other features) the LCD does NOT turn on, for whatever reason.

Pushing the info button by itself, can change how the LCD behaves.  I have a canon 80D, and by pressing the INFO button I can cause the LCD to NOT light up.

If that does not solve your problem, I would recommend taking your camera to an authorized repair center where they can diagnose the problem on your camera and resolve it for you.

By setting the screen characteristics with the info button it will allow the screen to operate when you hit another button. My guess is you now have it set to off no matter what is pressed.

If you do a reset of all settings in the menu I believe it will default to always off. Sounds like it was accidentally pressed but certainly don"t hesitate to give canon a call on their tech support line. They have always gone out of their way for me when I have called.

My suggestion is cycle info button to screen on. Snap a pic and see if it is off since your eye triggered the auto off function then hit your desired button to see if it comes on again.

What I am talking about is that the LCD IS supposed to turn on when I press (for example) the AF button, and the screen with AF point selection is supposed to show up. When I press that button (and others with other features) the LCD does NOT turn on, for whatever reason.

. . . the LCD IS supposed to turn on when I press (for example) the AF button, and the screen with AF point selection is supposed to show up. When I press that button (and others with other features) the LCD does NOT turn on, for whatever reason.

I see the AF point (at its current position) in the OVF. When I activate AF (by half-pressing shutter-release button, or by pressing AF-On button) and press one of the eight AF-point buttons (around the SET button), aka Multi-controller [manual, page 53], I see the AF point displaced accordingly in the OVF.

On the other hand... When I press the Q button, the LCD is on and the Q screen is shown on the LCD [manual, page 57]. When I select the "AF area selection mode" box in the Q screen (second box on last row), I see the screen with the layout of AF points on the LCD. When I press one of the eight AF-point buttons, I see the AF point displaced accordingly on the LCD [manual, pages 121 & 122].

What I am talking about is that the LCD IS supposed to turn on when I press (for example) the AF button, and the screen with AF point selection is supposed to show up. When I press that button (and others with other features) the LCD does NOT turn on, for whatever reason.

Like others have said I have never seen this happen nor could get it to happen. Never seen af point selection on the rear lcd. The rear lcd had to come on for the Rebels because it doesn"t have a top shoulder lcd screen.

Pushing the info button by itself, can change how the LCD behaves. I have a canon 80D, and by pressing the INFO button I can cause the LCD to NOT light up.

If that does not solve your problem, I would recommend taking your camera to an authorized repair center where they can diagnose the problem on your camera and resolve it for you.

In the settings, under "Info button display options", if I keep "Display camera settings" checked, the (for example) AF point selection screen does NOT show up on the rear LCD. When I turn that off, everything goes back to the state I was used to.

Like the 70D, the 80D is feature-packed, including great image quality with high resolution, a very capable AF system, a large and information-filled viewfinder,

a fast/responsive shutter combined with a very nice frame rate, a great LCD and compatibility with an incredible range of lenses, flashes and other accessories.

And if video is on your bucket list, this camera will give you incredible 1080p high def video quality along with unprecedented Movie Servo AF performance.

While the 80D is not a complete overhaul, such is not needed as the 70D was already a well-rounded, great-performing model in a long-standing series of cameras.

Still, I view the 80D"s new AF system, upgraded sensor, Wi-Fi/NFC, Anti-Flicker mode and additional improvements as very worthy of a new model designation.

This means that all of Canon"s EF-S, EF, TS-E and MP-E series lenses are compatible, but the outer portion of the image circle projected by full frame compatible lenses (EF, TS-E and MP-E) is not utilized.

It also means that the selected focal length will frame a scene similar to a 1.6x longer focal length mounted on a full frame sensor camera (this includes when using APS-C-only lenses such as the EF-S series).

Quickly discernable from the above chart is that the 80D has received a sensor upgrade from the 70D, with 24.2 megapixel resolution now equivalent to Canon"s previous highest megapixel APS-C camera, the Rebel T6i/T6s.

Interesting is that Canon"s only higher resolution DSLRs, at the time of the 80D introduction, are the ultra-high resolution full frame 5Ds and 5Ds R.

I should mention that the APS-C sensor format, though much smaller than the full frame sensor format, is huge relative to the imaging sensors in mobile phones and point and shoot cameras.

Because the pixel density in camera sensors has been increasing over the years, blur and a loss of pixel-level sharpness are increasingly likely due to camera and subject motion

Unless ... a faster minimum shutter speed is used for handholding (image stabilization also plays an important role) and for photographing fast-moving subjects.

The old 1/(focal length * 1.6) rule to determine one"s shortest shutter speed for handholding an APS-C camera (without the aid of image stabilization) may not be adequate for everyone.

While this formula uses the easy-to-use 1.6 factor that matches the APS-C sensor angle of view difference, the pixel density of the imaging sensor is the real reason the faster speed has been needed.

Another consideration for getting the most from a high resolution camera is the quality of the lens placed in front of it, as increased resolution will magnify any lens aberrations present.

Fortunately, gains continue to be made in RAW image noise reduction and the 80D results are not only as good as the lower resolution 70D, but very slightly improved.

Just as we saw with the Rebel T6i upgrade from the Rebel T5i, while taking on a nice increase in resolution over the 70D, the 80D appears to pay no noise penalty for doing so.

To my eyes, the 80D is the new APS-C EOS class leader, or very close to it, in regards to noise levels, though the differences alone are not likely to generate an urge to upgrade from any of the above-compared models.

The RAW-captured standard results utilize Canon"s Digital Photo Professional Standard Picture Style with a sharpness setting of 1 (very low) and no noise reduction – a very real-world example for me.

I use the Neutral Picture Style in-camera with RAW capture because it applies a lower contrast tone curve to images, providing a better picture of the camera"s available dynamic range on the histogram shown on the LCD.

There is a time to use the Neutral Picture Style in production, but I usually change my RAW images to the Standard PS immediately after importing them and then adjust sharpness to a lower-than-default level.

The next two noise result sets utilize the default Standard Picture Style settings selected in-camera with standard noise reduction also selected, showing RAW vs JPG capture.

These two sets utilize Canon"s default USM sharpness settings that are too strong for my taste (though the increased default sharpness will make softer lenses appear sharp).

Look for the bright borders to the black lines when comparing the noise-reduced images to the "Standard" results – the color blocks should not have halos around them.

On the positive side, this sharpening appears more advantageous at higher ISO settings, with image details remaining sharp while noise is significantly removed.

The MSNR results show the capability of Multi Shot Noise Reduction, also with the default Standard Picture Style and settings selected (JPG capture required).

MSNR is currently available only with JPG output (I would like to see this feature added to Canon"s Digital Photo Pro software for RAW capture processing – perhaps as another HDR preset).

These images were created from the same baseline "Standard" results (no noise reduction, very light sharpening), but the brightness was pushed by 1 and 2 stops during post processing,

The last pair of results were acquired by underexposing and overexposing the original capture by 2 stops and then adjusting the results in Canon DPP by the same amount.

The bright colors become muted in the overexposed capture due to blown color channels being darkened; but otherwise, these results show a benefit of ETTR (Exposing to the Right).

The following image was captured at ISO 10000, the setting required to get a 1/640 sec. shutter speed (marginally adequate for stopping motion) at f/2 with the widest aperture 200mm lens currently available, the

With a moderate amount of noise reduction (DPP 4, 11 luminance, 10 chrominance), this image looks rough when viewed at 100%, but downsized/down-sampled to what you see on your monitor (perhaps 4 x 6" or 102 x 152mm), it looks very clean.

Increasing resolution to 24 megapixels while keeping noise at bay (or even slightly improving performance), the 80D provides the image quality that DSLRs are so desired for.

The following table shows comparative RAW file sizes for a photo of a standard in-studio setup with a moderately-high amount of detail taken with the referenced Canon EOS DSLR body.Model / File Size in MB @ ISO:(MP)100200400800160032006400128002560051200102400204800409600

Canon RAW file sizes increase with: 1. Resolution 2. Bit Depth (14-bit is better/larger) 3. Detail (noise adds detail, so high ISO file sizes increase). Memory and disk are cheap - buy more. :)

Rotate cards to maintain a backup set until, minimally, you are able to get the images safely into your formal backup strategy (that includes off-sight storage).

To test the Canon EOS 80D"s 7 fps drive mode and 25 frame RAW file buffer specs, I configured the camera to use ISO 100, a 1/8000 shutter speed (no waiting for the shutter operation),

the EOS 80D repeatedly captured 23 frames in 3.145 seconds to precisely match the rated drive speed and come within 2 frames of the rated buffer depth.

Camera sounds are recorded using a Tascam DR-07mkII Portable Digital Audio Recorder with record levels set to 50% at -12db gain and positioned 1" behind the rear LCD.

I"ve said it many times, but it is a very important concept: If the photo is not properly focused, the quality of the camera and lens used to take it are of no matter.

Featuring 45 AF points, the 80D"s AF system covers an increased area of the frame (62% of the frame horizontally and 48% vertically in the center), including the commonly-used rule of thirds lines within the coverage area.

All 45 AF points are horizontal and vertical cross-type focusing (sensitive to lines of contrast in both directions) with lenses having an f/5.6 or wider max aperture.

The center AF point acts as a dual cross-type sensitive point when a lens with an f/2.8 or wider aperture is used, becoming sensitive to horizontal, vertical and diagonal lines of contrast for higher focusing precision.

However, the story is different when the subject is in motion and AI Servo subject tracking requires a focus point continuously placed on the subject.

While the 80D does not reach the 7D Mark II"s AF point count, the 80D has a significant AF point count increase over the 70D, going from 19 to 45, and again,

As with the higher end EOS cameras, the EOS 80D"s menu system (Custom Function Menu II) permits configuration of the AF system"s tracking sensitivity, acceleration/deceleration tracking, and AF point auto switching.

The Canon EOS 80D"s AF Area options are Single-point AF (select one AF point), Zone AF (select one of 9 AF area focusing zones comprised of 9 AF points – one of three on left, 3 in center or 3 on right side),

Large Zone AF (select one of 3 large AF area focusing zones – 15 AF points on left, center or right) and Auto AF point selection (all 45 AF points active – closest subject receives priority).

on a white warning label (it had good contrast with the equipment it was adhered to) with the AE system calling for 25 sec. shutter speeds at ISO 100.

This low light AF performance improvement will definitely catch the attention of wedding and concert photographers along with many others shooting in dark venues.

With an infinite number of possible focus circumstances and numerous camera AF parameters available, it is not reasonable to expect to perform an exhaustive set of tests.

On the other hand, predicting the point of perfect focus on a fast-moving subject at the precise moment the shutter opens in AI Servo AF mode is a big challenge for AF technology and

This slightly-cropped image was captured with in AI Servo AF Mode using top-center AF point, High-speed continuous drive mode, 1/1600, f/2.8 and ISO 640.

To that end, I much prefer this AF system over any of the previous **D camera"s AF systems and over any of the current Rebel (***D and ****D) systems.

Groundbreaking with the introduction of this camera"s predecessor, the EOS 70D, was Canon"s innovative Dual Pixel CMOS AF technology, allowing sensor-based phase detection AF.

Since the imaging sensor pixels are able to perform both imaging and fast phase-detection focus measurement simultaneously, continuous AI Servo-like AF is available in Movie mode, referred to as "Movie Servo AF".

The Canon EOS 80D is the latest DSLR to arrive with Dual Pixel CMOS AF technology and this particular iteration of Dual Pixel CMOS AF features improved tracking sensitivity, allowing for better AF results in challenging,

Those capturing video in dimly lit venues (typical of wedding receptions) will likely most appreciate the 80D"s improved tracking experienced in Movie Servo AF.

Live View and Movie focusing modes making use of the Dual Pixel CMOS AF include what has become the Canon standard: Face Detection with Tracking, FlexiZone Multi, and FlexiZone Single.

The EOS 80D has inherited the 7D Mark II"s ability to adjust AF speed and tracking sensitivity while using FlexiZone – Single with compatible STM (and now Nano USM) lenses.

Just like the EOS 70D, the 80D"s capacitive touchscreen allows for Touch Focus during both Live View still photography and before/during video recording.

The AF coverage area encompasses a full 80% of the frame (measured horizontally and vertically) with no limit on a "number" of focus points to select from or include in auto AF.

And, AF can function with camera and lens combinations having an f/11 or wider aperture (vs. f/8 with the EOS 80D"s conventional AF) - again, using 80% of the frame.

The 80D records video in .MP4 or .MOV format using the MPEG-4 AVC / H.264 codec, with audio being recorded in Linear PCM (.MOV) or AAC (.MP4) via dual front microphones (producing stereo sound) or the 3.5mm stereo input jack. Sound recording levels can be set to Auto, Manual (64 levels) or Disabled entirely. Wind Filter and Attenuator options can be set in the sound recording menu.

Several features have been added to Canon"s now-current **D camera for the benefit of filmmakers and include HDR, Creative Filter & Time-Lapse Movies.

In HDR Movie Mode, the camera will attempt to reduce highlight clipping with the result of increasing dynamic range when filming in high-contrast environments.

While in Creative Filters mode, movies can be captured with one of five filter types applied – Memory, Dream, Old Movies, Dramatic B&W and Miniature Effect.

The Video Snapshot feature, where short 2, 4 or 8 second videos [called video snapshots] can be organized into an album and played back with optional music, has been carried over from the 70d.

While DSLR filmmakers will likely account for a great number of 80D orders, it is more likely that a great number of photographers who purchase the 80D will subsequently become interested in DSLR filmmaking

Utilizing the 80D"s DIGIC 6 processor is its new 7,560-pixel RGB+IR metering sensor, enabling skin tone and color detection that works in conjunction with AF for enhance tracking sensitivity.

Available metering modes are Evaluative (entire scene is analyzed within 63 zones), Partial (6% of viewfinder area at center), Spot (3.8% of viewfinder area at center) and Center-weighted

New is the ability to influence Auto White Balance via Ambience Priority or White Priority settings, further reducing color corrections needed during post processing.

The subject is a white wall and the lights are fluorescent tubes (I had to go all the way to my basement to find these two sets of four 4" fluorescent tube lights).

When the flicker-effected area is fully contained within the frame, the amount of area affected is narrower at faster shutter speeds and wider with longer shutter speeds.

The 1/500 second test showed approximately 2/3 of the frame severely affected at most, with a handful of images with about 50% of the images appearing evenly lit.

The 1/1000 second test showed an even narrower band of the flicker"s effect running through the image (a smaller slit of fast-moving shutter opening being used).

I"m not going to say that these results are perfectly-evenly lit, but ... they are dramatically better than the normal captures and you will not see the less-than-perfectly-even lighting in most

When light flicker is detected outside of the Basic modes and Anti-flicker mode is not enabled, a flashing flicker warning optionally shows in the viewfinder (enabled by default).

Since the viewfinder"s metering system is required for flicker detection, this feature is not available in Live View mode (due to the mirror being locked up).

Benefits of a viewfinder include the stability provided by the third point of contact (two hands and a forehead) and the clear, easy to see composition being captured (even in the brightest sunlight).

That is, unless you learned to frame very slightly too tight, in which case you need to retrain yourself as there is no insurance coverage outside of the 80D-presented viewfinder.

The Canon EOS 80D’s "Intelligent Viewfinder" features an LCD screen that can be optionally configured to show grid lines, light flicker detection and an electronic level.

With it"s always-on (when metering is live), easy-to-see, dedicated, superimposed viewfinder level indicator, the EOS 80D makes avoiding crooked horizons easy.

While the electronic level feature seems minor and insignificant, the small improvement can make a big difference in the quality of your images if pixel-level-destructive image rotation

Electronic viewfinder level indication lines show 0°, 1° or 2+° in either direction and is active only while the meter is live (half shutter release press activates).

The single-axis electronic level is also available on the rear LCD including in Live View (press info until this option displays), but not when face+tracking is selected in the menu (the default).

If you have never used a DSLR camera before, you will learn that Canon"s vast experience and intelligent design concepts have been heavily imparted into this camera.

The Live View/Video selection lever surrounding the Start/Stop button takes is in also-current-standard position (to the right of the viewfinder) as are the AF-ON (for back-button AF capability),

The last **D camera to have this feature was the 50D and the joystick remains a differentiator between this model and the 7D-series (that didn"t exist at that time).

Filling the void somewhat is this camera"s multi-controller, featuring an outer dial encircling an 8-way directional switch with a "Set" button in the center.

Turn the dial to this mode and press the "Q" button to select one of 10 different options for shooting still images: Grainy B/W, Soft focus, Fish-eye, Toy camera, Miniature, Water color and 4 HDR settings.

Turn the mode dial to "SCN" (Special Scene), press "Q" and choose between Food, Kids, Candlelight, Night Portrait, Handheld Night Scene, HDR Backlight Control, Portrait, Landscape, Close-up and Sports modes.

Those with some basic photography knowledge can use the CA (Creative Auto) mode to make camera settings adjustments using easily-understandable words instead of numbers.

The full set of creative mode options (P, Av, Tv, M and B) are provided for the photographer to take as much control over their exposure settings as desired.

While the 80D provides one more button in front of the top LCD (itself a nice feature) than the 7D Mark II and 5-Series bodies, these buttons all have a single-function vs. the dual-function variety,

The ports on the left side of the camera, clockwise from the top right, are USB (2.0), HDMI, remote control (E3 type), headphone output and microphone input.

As you likely have already determined from the comparison images above, the EOS 80D is somewhat larger than the Rebel series cameras and slightly smaller than the 7D Mark II.

This model is not hard to acclimate to, regardless of what you are using today, and the size of this camera enables it to adequately control even larger lenses.

These specs do not mean that your shutter will fail right after crossing the spec threshold, but are provided to give a very rough estimate of the shutter"s durability.

Case in point: Though the 80D was in a case beside me at the time, I was photographing wood ducks with another camera when a pair of geese began fighting.

I lifted a foot into the air (I was sitting on the ground) to protect my tripod-mounted camera from the incoming birds and the lead goose crashed right into my hiking boot.

The EOS 80D has built-in Wi-Fi and NFC capability, providing easy transfer of images and movies to compatible mobile devices using Canon"s free Camera Connect app.

The camera’s built-in NFC (Near Field Communication) allows quick and simple pairing to a compatible Android device, or devices that support NFC like the

As with all of Canon"s other recent DSLR cameras with a built-in flash, flash settings can be controlled from the menu which includes an extensive range of controls for built in, hot-shoe-mounted and remote flashes.

Simply double-press the camera"s flash button (or single press the flash button with an external Speedlite mounted) for instant access to the Flash Function Setting Screen.

Like the 70D and most of Canon"s other recent DSLR cameras featuring a built-in flash, the 80D includes an Integrated Speedlite Transmitter for optical (not RF) wireless control of multiple off-camera EOS Speedlites.

Using one of 4 available channels, take complete control of up to 2 groups of flashes (A,B) with ratios of up to 8:1 including ±3 stops FEC (Flash Exposure Compensation).

Group C flashes can be triggered when the camera is set to the "All" Firing group, but every flash (regardless of the assigned group) will be triggered at the same exposure level (effectively working as a single group).

It not only saves a significant cost associated with the other Speedlight Transmitter options, but it reduces the size and weight of the camera when using remote flashes.

The integrated Speedlite transmitter feature alone, if needed, will save you the purchase of a device with a significant cost - and the convenience factor of having this feature built-in is huge.

The 70D and 60D shipped with the very popular LP-E6 (sans "N"), but fortunately for those considering an upgrade, the LP-E6 and the new LP-E6N are both forward and backward compatible

The LP-E6N battery form factor is great (you can easily fit several of these small batteries in most pockets) and they still provide a rating of up to 960 shots in the Canon EOS 80D.

My first three monitored full LP-E6N charges provided 1,660, 1,200, 872 and 471 shots with 35%, 52%, 46% and 59% battery life remaining for an estimated 2,553, 2,500, 1,363 and 1,148 total shot capacity.

My camera use was very mixed during this time, but high speed burst drive mode was used more heavily in the first three charges (leading to higher shot counts) and video was most-recorded on the third charge.

This lens, shown mounted on many of the product images on this page, is a very good option, and features a long focal length range and great support for video recording.

Owning a Canon product gives you access to Canon support and the support I have been provided by Canon"s USA division is excellent (sorry, I have no experience with the other Canon divisions).

When I call for support, I get an intelligent person who sincerely wants to help me with whatever my question or problem is (I do give them challenges sometimes).

Important factors missing from this list are the lower cost, smaller size and lighter weight of the Rebel T6i and to some, one or all of those factors are quite important.

You of course must make the decision that is right for you, but there are several items on this list that would get my attention if making this choice.

While "80D" appears a fine name in print, quickly saying the name to someone who is unfamiliar with the model name will likely come across as "A.D.D.", or Attention Deficit Disorder.

Whether you are a first-time DSLR buyer, you are interested in upgrading to a more feature-filled and capable camera, or if you are adding an additional camera to your kit,

Bringing you this site is my full-time job (typically 60-80 hours per week). Thus, I depend solely on the commissions received from you using the links on this site to make any purchase. I am grateful for your support! - Bryan

Knowing your camera’s settings gives you the confidence you need to create great photos! In case you missed it, be sure to read, “Get to know your camera” where we learned the buttons and dials on your Canon camera.

At the end of this post, there are 3 practice scenarios for you to set your camera’s settings for “Landscapes”, “Portraits”, and “Panning Shots”. Practice makes perfect better, so give them a try!

Most cameras have several shooting modes. The one you use depends on your preference, subject, and experience. A camera’s semi-automatic modes, (Aperture Priority (Av) and Shutter Priority (Tv)), let you control the settings that are most important based on your subject.

Manual mode (M) requires you to control all settings, including aperture and shutter speed. As a beginner, you’ll only need manual for a handful of advanced scenarios. As you progress, you’ll get much more comfortable with manual mode

Image “depth” consists of the foreground, subject, and background elements in your photo. “Depth of field” simply refers to how “in focus” each of those elements are.

Wide apertures like f/2.8, create an extremely shallow depth-of-field. Portrait photographers prefer a shallow depth of field to keep their subjects sharp and backgrounds blurred.

Landscape photographers want as much of the scene to be in focus as possible. They use apertures like f/16 (or smaller) for more front-to-back sharpness.

Controlling shutter speed gives you the incredible ability to freeze fast-moving subjects in space and time, or capture them with artistic blur. For action photos, the right shutter speed can enable many creative possibilities.

In the bottom of your viewfinder and LCD screen you see what looks like a little number line (circled in red in the following photos). That number line represents your exposure compensation. When the pointer on the number line is below 0, your photo gets darker. Above zero, and your photo brightens.

Knowing how to use this basic Canon camera setting is important, because in Aperture Priority (Av) and Shutter Priority (Tv) modes, your camera always assumes your subject is a mid-tone (not too dark, not too bright). That’s problematic if your subject (or their background) is lighter or darker than mid-gray. Your image might turn out over- or underexposed.

To show you what this means, our subject – alittle Funko Pop figure – has a dark background. Since the camera is in Av mode (aperture priority), the camera assumes the subject is a mid-tone, and slightly overexposes the scene.

Exposure compensation lets you override the camera’s automatic assumptions, and lighten or darken the exposure to fix the problem. It basically gives you manual control with the convenience of semi-automatic.

Another basic Canon camera setting is ISO. ISO refers to how sensitive your camera’s sensor is to light. The lower the ISO, the less sensitive–the higher the ISO, the more sensitive. There’s lots to consider with ISO, but for now just know that lower ISO numbers (usually 100-400), result in better image quality, (and vice versa). At low ISOs, there’s very little digital ‘noise’ in your photos.

In the first low-light image of my Minion figure, I set my camera’s ISO to 100. To properly expose the scene, I adjusted the aperture (f/1.8) and shutter speed (4 seconds). Notice how crisp everything looks!

In the next photo, I shot the same subject, in the same lighting conditions. But this time I cranked up the ISO full-blast (40,000) to brighten the scene. I used abnormally high ISO to show you its main drawback: Notice how crappy — er, I mean “un-sharp” and “grainy” the shadow details look!

“Digital Noise”, (noticeable at higher ISOs and plain ugly at the highest settings), looks like pixelated, colored flecks in the shadow areas of your photos. Choosing your ISO setting is ultimately a matter of compromise. High ISOs (such as ISO 6400) let you use faster shutter speeds–meaning you won’t need a tripod or a flashgun in low-light scenarios. Choose wisely.

By default your basic Canon camera settings are configured for JPEGs. JPEG image files are processed in-camera. That means you can download them from your memory card and print them or share them online instantly.

What’s nice about JPEGs is that they don’t take up much space on your memory cards and hard drives, and they’re processed and ready for use. The downside is their tone and color data is relatively limited. They won’t hold up very well if you try to heavily edit them.

As you gain experience, you’ll capture photos in the ‘Raw’. Raw files take up more space than JPEGs, but you get more flexibility in post processing. It’s easier to adjust color, exposure, and white balance than with JPEGs. Use Raw when you intend to post process your photos with tools like Photoshop or Lightroom.

To ensure a sharp subject no matter what you shoot, Canon cameras have three autofocus modes, as well as manual focus. The basic Canon camera setting mode you choose depends on your situation.

AI Servo continuously maintains focus on a moving subject as long as you keep the shutter button pressed halfway, and the active (red) focus point stays on your subject.

This focus mode blends One Shot and AI Servo. In this mode, your camera starts out in One Shot but automatically switches to AI Servo if your subject starts moving. It’s not perfect though, and many photographers prefer to not use it.

This is just what it sounds like. Switch to manual focus via the AF-MF switch on your lens. Focus on your subject by rotating the focus ring on the lens until your subject looks sharp through the viewfinder or on the LCD screen. This option is great for landscape and macro photography.

Metering modes let you change the way your camera reads the light in your scene, which then affects overall exposure. In most situations, Evaluative metering works the best. So what do the other modes do?

Center-weighted metering reads the light mostly around the center of the frame, and less so towards the edges. It’s useful when using neutral density (ND) filters, which can cause Evaluative metering to overexpose.

This ‘intelligent’ metering mode reads light from all parts of the frame, and calculates an average exposure based on the light and dark areas of the scene, with a bias towards the selected AF point(s). Evaluative metering helps you get a correct exposure in most situations.

It’s a basic Canon camera setting that’s simple to use. Just press the flash button and take a picture. If your flash is too strong or too weak, use the flash exposure compensation setting in the main menu to adjust the power.

The “rule of thirds” is one of the simplest and most useful composition techniques to master. By following this guideline, you ensure your photos are visually balanced. All the elements in your scene work together in harmony.

Simply imagine your frame with two horizontal and two vertical lines like a tic-tac-toe. Position your subject on one of the four intersection points on the grid for a good, solid composition. To make things easier, most Canon cameras let you overlay a grid on your LCD screen and viewfinder.

This basic Canon camera setting isn’t really a camera setting per se, but it is important. Cameras are often sold as kits with a camera body and basic zoom lens.  Kit lenses are normally 18-55mm, and useful for a wide range of subjects.  “Focal length” refers to how wide the field of view is.  A smaller number (18mm) gives you a wider view, and a larger number (55mm) creates a narrower, more “zoomed in” view.

18mm is ideal for landscapes. 35mm is good for a wide range of subjects. 55mm is great for portraits as well as getting closer to subjects that are farther away. Focal length also affects the depth of field–background sharpness decreases as the focal length increases.

Use a tripod if you’ve got one. For the best light, shoot just after sunrise or just before sunset. First, switch your camera to Aperture Priority (Av) mode, with the aperture set to f/16 and ISO at 100. Next, zoom your lens out to 18mm for the widest possible view, and switch it to manual focus.

Now, turn on Live View (the LCD screen) and compose your image. Once your image is composed, zoom in to a point that’s roughly one-third of the distance into the scene, and manually focus on that point. Finally, for a sharp shot, activate the self-timer and press the shutter button.

First, find an area with an uncluttered background that extends a few meters behind your subject. Next, switch your camera to Aperture Priority (Av) mode with the aperture set to f/5.6 and ISO at 100 or 400 depending on how bright your scene is. Zoom your lens in to 55mm.

Next, set the focus mode to Single Shot and make sure just a single AF point is active. Finally, look through your viewfinder, and adjust the AF point’s position so it’s over your subject’s closest eye. You’re now ready to begin shooting.

First, set your lens to 35mm or 55mm, depending on your distance from the subject. Next, switch your camera to Shutter Priority (Tv) mode and set the shutter speed based on the table below. Now, set the ISO to 100 or 400, depending on how bright your scene is, and use AI Servo AF (continuous AF) with the central focus points active.

As your subject approaches, track them and half-press the shutter button. Lastly, as they pass, keep tracking them by twisting on your hips and press the shutter button all the way while smoothly continuing to track them.

So how did you do? I’d love to see your test shots! Post ’em to your favorite social media pages, and post a comment below with links to your shots!

Remember–reading and knowing this stuff is only a starting point. Practicing these concepts is how you’ll really start to grow and learn. Got questions? Drop a comment, or shoot me an email!

What"s there to say about the Canon 80D? The camera is an excellent, well-built DSLR that produces reasonably sharp, detailed photographs and high quality Full HD video. It"s comfortable to hold with classic Canon DSLR styling, ergonomics and controls, and its versatile AF system is great -- especially thanks to Dual Pixel CMOS AF. The 80D feels like a tried-and-true Canon DSLR -- nothing over the top, ground-breaking or revolutionary, just what it"s meant to be. It"s a straightforward camera that works well, performs well, and captures pleasing images. And for that, it gets our applause.

But, the devil is in the details, so let"s begin with the Canon 80D"s image quality. Overall, the Canon 80D offers solid performance in the image quality department on nearly all fronts at both low and higher ISOs. The new 24-megapixel APS-C sensor now puts the Canon 80D more in-line with a number of major competing APS-C cameras, and results in excellent, highly detailed images. Despite the increase in resolution, the Canon 80D"s new sensor also shows modest improvements with a higher maximum native ISO over the 70D, lower shadow noise, and improved RAW high ISO performance, but it still lags somewhat behind the best modern competitors, though.

The Canon 80D"s sensor still features an optical low-pass filter, while most of its competitors are doing away with it to get an extra leg-up on fine detail resolving power. In some cases, this is a noticeable benefit, but it does have its drawbacks, namely moiré and other aliasing artifacts which can be difficult to remove later on. For the target customer of the Canon 80D we think it"s a smart choice to include a filter, but in terms of absolute maximum sharpness, the Canon 80D is at a disadvantage. On the plus side, at least for JPEG shooters, Canon has included their new "Fine Detail" Picture Style, which we first saw included on the high-end 5DS and 5DS R cameras. With the Canon 80D, Fine Detail doesn"t offer as striking of a difference as we saw with the 5DS/R cameras, but it does show a subtle improvement with more natural fine detail rendering and fewer sharpening halos.

On the subject of detail and sharpness, the Canon 80D can be purchased in a kit configuration with a new 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM lens. Featuring a new "Nano USM" AF system, this lens is not only versatile in terms of focal length range, but its AF performance is super quick and super quiet. What is disappointing, however, is its sharpness. The lens is not very sharp overall, and especially in the corners. Chromatic aberration and distortion is also problematic. You can correct for all of this with in-camera JPEGs -- and the 80D does a good job there -- but it"s quite apparent with uncorrected RAWs. For a one-lens solution, the 18-135mm is okay, but there are sharper options out there.

While certainly not as speedy and as quick-firing as its 7D Mark II big brother, the Canon 80D"s performance is a comfortable and capable middle ground that"s plenty fast for a variety of fast action, sports and wildlife pursuits. Claiming up to 7fps bursts in continuous mode, our lab tests show this to be the case if just a hair under spec. This is unchanged from the 70D"s burst rate, however buffer performance is noticeably improved which should keep you shooting for longer -- and all this despite the heftier 24MP resolution. According to our buffer depth tests, the 80D managed a healthy 53 best quality JPEGs, dipping down to 19 frames for RAW+JPEG. Buffer clearing was quite good, at only four seconds for JPEGs or 13 seconds for RAW+JPEG, and the camera lets you continue firing shots or change settings while clearing the buffer so you can keep on capturing.

The Canon 80D"s autofocus undergoes a big upgrade compared to its predecessor. Sporting a 45-point phase-detect autofocus system, it"s a very nice upgrade and much more versatile than the 19-point AF system of the 70D. The 80D doesn"t offer as many of the AF Area modes, however, as the higher-end EOS cameras like the 7D Mark II, but it does offer AF functionality down to f/8 unlike the 70D. Owners of long supertelephoto lenses and teleconverters will be pleased with this upgrade.

Of course, you can"t forget about Dual Pixel CMOS AF. Debuting on the 70D, the addition of on-sensor phase detect pixels to the sensor allows for vastly improved live view focusing for both stills and video. And it works beautifully in the Canon 80D. For stills, Live View AF is super fast, and with the combination of the touchscreen LCD to quickly change the focus point, it"s a very useful feature. For video work, the Dual Pixel system provides pleasing, smooth and cinematic-looking AF performance. Video focus speed is adjustable to fit your shooting style or mood, and overall the subject tracking works very well, making the Canon 80D a rather versatile video camera.

The Canon 80D"s AF performance overall is quite good, barring one interesting discovery. While the 80D is spec"d for better low-light autofocusing compared to the earlier 70D when using the optical viewfinder (-3.0 EV vs. -0.5 EV), our low-light AF lab tests didn"t confirm that despite testing with multiple lenses -- at least initially. We found the 80D"s low-light AF performance to be a bit of a mixed experience; on the one hand, it can indeed focus on a sharp, contrasty targets down to its rated light level of -3.0EV. That said, though, other less expensive and less highly-rated Canon bodies outperformed the 80D when dealing with a less-contrasty subject in similarly dark conditions.

Outside of the lab, the Canon 80D felt decently quick to autofocus in low-light conditions. Using the Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L II lens, we compared the 80D to the Canon T6s. On a very dark, poorly lit, indoor subject both cameras struggled to acquire focus (however the 1D X Mark II was able to acquire focus quite easily on the same subject). However, with a better lit indoor subject, on which both the 80D and T6s were able to successfully acquire focus, the Canon 80D did feel consistently quicker to acquire focus.

Like the 70D before it, the new Canon 80D is very much a hybrid camera -- designed for videography as well as photography. As mentioned, its Dual Pixel CMOS AF is excellent and makes shooting video much simpler and more straightforward. You no longer have to resort to manual focus like in the early days of DSLR video, well, unless you want to -- though the 80D doesn"t offer focus peaking.

As for other video features, the Canon 80D offers a good, well-rounded set of amenities, though noticeably absent is the increasingly popular choice of 4K resolution. There"s a growing number of 4K-capable cameras, at a variety of price points, so we"re a bit disappointed that Canon left this feature out of the 80D. The new DIGIC 6 image processor does allow for 1080/60p video now, though you can"t use that frame rate with the higher quality ALL-I compression -- IPB only for 60p (or 50p). For both ALL-I and IPB video, the quality looks good to our eyes with lots of detail and decent dynamic range. You can even use the new Fine Detail Picture Style with video if you want. Advanced videographers will also enjoy the addition of a headphone jack, though there is still no clean HDMI output.

Perhaps the only other major drawback to video other than the lack of 4K is the continuous recording time limit. Long having been a factor for Canon shooters, the 80D carries on the tradition of stopping continuous video at 29 minutes, 59 seconds. For those needing to record long, continuous scenes or events, be ready to press the record button manually after 30 minutes.

Overall, the Canon 80D is a solid, well-built, well-rounded multimedia DSLR. Its ergonomics and design are classic Canon, which translates to easy, comfortable functionality with tons of external controls. The camera"s image quality is very good. Thanks to its new 24MP sensor, it shows improvements to both low and higher ISOs, though competing cameras still have an edge image quality-wise over the 80D.

Performance is very good, too, with decent burst speeds, improved buffer depths, excellent battery life, and a new, more versatile 45-point AF system. Combined with Dual Pixel CMOS AF technology for fast live view AF, the Canon 80D is well suited for a variety of shooting scenarios, including general use, portraits and traveling as well as more challenging endeavors like sports and wildlife. Video is also a hallmark feature, and while it"s sadly lacking a few notable features like 4K, overall the 80D offers good quality video with lots of features for both beginners and advanced video creators.

All in all, while the Canon 80D feels more evolutionary than revolutionary, it"s an all-around excellent DSLR with a good combination of image quality, advanced features, great build quality, and a good price point. It"s a great still camera, and Canon"s Dual-Pixel autofocus is unbeatable for video. All told, the Canon 80D gets the nod as a Dave"s Pick in our book.

Summary: Are you frustrated with your camera taking black pictures? Are the photos coming out dark or shadowy in spite of ample light during the shoot? It is probably because of wrong exposure. This post explains why camera photos turn out black and helps you with the 13 workable solutions to fix the issue.

You love to shoot amazing pictures with your digital camera. But suddenly the camera starts taking black pictures. Photos appear too dark. Indoor photos are black despite the ambient light. And you wonder why?

Photography is not just a creative pursuit but a skill mastered with practice. Nevertheless, you don’t need to wrap your head around this problem. Camera recording black or dark photos is a common issue. And can be easily fixed using the below methods: Set aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to prevent dark pictures

Your camera would do the best job when it receives the good amount of light. A combination of right aperture, shutter speed, and ISO settings is a key to perfect photos. When the 3 elements are not set to the correct level, your camera will produce underexposed, dark, or black photos.

In addition, the camera pictures can turn out black because of shooting on low battery or with a dirty lens. In case the LCD screen shows a black screen instead of a photo, the problem could be with the LCD backlighting.

To fix black pictures issue, first check the camera settings. If you are shooting in Manual Mode, fix the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO settings. Alternatively, you can try your camera’s default Auto mode or shoot in RAW.

If your camera is taking black pictures, work upon the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO settings. But to obtain the correct settings that bring the perfect exposure in the photos, it’s essential first to understand these 3 camera elements.

Aperture is a hole through which light enters your camera. The bigger the aperture more the light reaches into the camera sensor. It is measured in a focal ratio such as f/4.0, f/5.0, f/8.0, etc. The larger the focal-number, smaller is the aperture, i.e., lesser light passes the camera sensors. So aperture should be more to stop the camera from taking dark photos.

Shutter speed is the duration for which the shutter is opened. It is measured in a fraction of a second such as 1/10, 1/40, etc. Less shutter speed lets more light into the camera. Hence, when taking pictures at night, keep the shutter speed low. Further, shutter speed also affects the picture sharpness in motion photography. You can follow the common rule — to set the shutter speed as per the focal length of your camera lens. For example, if the camera focal length is 65 mm, set the shutter speed to 1/65.

ISO is the sensitivity of your camera sensor to light. Lower ISO results in darker photos. Conversely, you can brighten a picture by increasing the ISO number. ISO value usually starts from 100 and can go up to 6400, depending upon your camera. When shooting in less light, keep the camera ISO value higher to prevent the camera taking black pictures. Try to set it to at least 200. Further, depending upon light conditions, you may need to raise it to 1600 or above.

Having said this, a very high ISO can result in grainy photos. Thus, use camera ISO to brighten photos only when low shutter speed and bigger aperture are causing blur or noise in pictures.

In a nutshell, adjust these 3 photography aspects to an optimal level so that the maximum light enters the camera. And you get a bright photo without noise, blur, or grains.

As an amateur photographer, you may not want to fidget with the multiple settings in your camera. Instead, take advantage of the camera Auto, also called Program Mode. The automatic mode in the camera auto selects the aperture and shutter speed settings to generate the best possible light exposure in your photo.

Professional photographers commonly denounce the Auto Mode in contrast to Manual Mode. But modern cameras built-in Auto mode is improved and better. Mostly you can obtain a well-exposed photo without the annoying darkness.

In order to use Exposure Compensation, first select any of the camera mode such as Program Mode (P), Aperture Priority (A/ Av), Shutter Priority (S) or other scenic modes present in your camera. Remember, Exposure Compensation doesn’t work in Manual (M) mode. Once you select the camera mode, adjust the exposure value compensation to remove darkness from your photos.

The Exposure Value Compensation is indicated with (+/-) sign. Check for the sign over your digital camera. It should be typically available on a button or a dial, depending on your camera model. If you set the exposure value towards negative, the camera will take darker photos,whereas moving it to the positive sign, the pictures will get brighter.

Lighten up pictures by using the fill flash. The technique is best used to remove the darkness or shadowed areas from pictures when recording at night, dim light, or on extremely sunny day.

Typically, fill flash is used when the background is brighter than the subject in your frame. Like when your subject is in front of a sun-dappled river or a snowy mountain. Using the technique, you can remove the dark cast over your photo’s subject and brighten up the overall picture.

However, be careful when adding light to the shadowed areas of your photo. Too much light or flash too close to the subject can muddle your images. Maintain a balance between the ambient exposure (the existing light) and your flash light. Professionals prefer to control the exposure manually using both camera’s exposure settings and flash settings.

Turn off your digital camera. Remove the battery for a few minutes and reinsert it. Make sure the camera battery is fully charged and properly inserted.

Cameras have options to record photos in JPEG and RAW. Choose to shoot in RAW format if you are getting dark JPEG pictures. The RAW file types capture all image data recorded by your camera sensor. The RAW format photos are of high quality and brighter compared to the compressed JPEG files.

You can also use the ‘Clean Image sensor’ option present in your camera. The feature removes the dust that sticks to camera sensors during exchange or change of lenses. You can find the sensor cleaning option in the menu of your digital camera.

If photos are black on camera LCD screen but appear fine on computer, it is possible that your LCD backlight is dead. Besides, to be rest assured that camera taking black pictures is actually an LCD display issue you can do the following checks: Make sure the digital camera powered on when viewing the photo.

If your camera LCD display still shows black and you can’t see any picture, contact the manufacturer for repair. If the camera is in warranty, they should replace the LCD display.

If the pictures continue to come out black, try by resetting your digital camera to default settings. The reset option may vary with camera model. For instance, Canon variants usually have ‘Clear all camera settings’ options whereas to reset Nikon DSLR, navigate to ‘Reset Shooting Options’ from the camera menu.

Histogram helps to assess the picture exposure settings on your camera LCD. It is a graphical representation of the brightness levels in the picture. You can quickly find if the photo is underexposed and change the camera settings accordingly.

If you see a tall spike on the left in the histogram, it indicates the photo is underexposedor dark. Whereas if the picture is overexposed, the spike will appear on the far right.

Do you already have dark or underexposed pictures and can’t reshoot them? Fix dark pictures using an advanced photo editor. Adobe Photoshop, Lightroom, Movavi, and others have multiple options to fix the brightness and contrast in your pictures. You can add hue/saturation adjustment layer, use filters or other features to enhance the image and minimize the dark cast.

If no technique works and the camera continues to take black or dark photos, contact your camera authorized service center. You can also email or call the manufacturer’s support service on its website.

If a perfectly shot photo appears completely black on your computer, it could be due to corruption. Image files stored in hard drive, SSD, camera memory card etc., can get corrupt due to virus infection, improper file transfer, bad sectors in drive and other reasons. The corrupt photos may appear black, grainy, color damaged, etc. However, you can repair them using photo repair software.

Photo repair tools don’t work like image editing software. They don’t fix overexposed, underexposed or other flaws in pictures caused due to wrong camera settings or poor light arrangements during shoot. Instead, they repair corrupt file header and data to bring back your photos in original form.

It’s annoying when your camera takes black photos. But now, with the given 13 ways in this post, you can easily fix the camera taking black or dark pictures problem.

Nishat Paiker is an expert technical writer and editor with over 8 years of experience. She has deep knowledge about data recovery and loves to explore new technology and DIY tools. Nishat has keen interest in photography. You will often find her giving photography tips and hacks.

Canon’s EOS 80D is the most recent release, in a very popular series of cameras that began with the EOS 10D.  It represents Canon’s latest model in the middle of their camera range. Historically this series of cameras has provided many of the features of more expensive Canon full-frame bodies, but with a smaller APS-C sensor.  In the Canon range, the 7D Mark 2 has mostly higher specifications, in a more robust package, but shares the APS -C sensor size.  However, as the 80D is a newer camera than the 7D Mark 2, it benefits from some of the latest technology and it outperforms the more expensive 7D Mark 2 in some metrics.  The 80D is by far the most highly specified XXD Canon body to date, and one of the biggest upgrades is a powerful, new 45 point autofocus system which is highly configurable.  It also has a fair degree of customisation built into it, and the powerful Dual Pixel AF system for shooting in Live View or movie mode. With these improvements comes a higher degree of complexity.  In this post I will share my own default setup of the 80D, with my settings chosen with the kind of wildlife photography that I do as the main priority.

Pressing the Q-button displays the main camera settings.  I use M-mode, but only when I can combine it with Auto Iso (or I also use AV mode and TV mode with manual iso).  From this screen you can see that the camera is set for Ai Servo (moving subject) focus, Single AF point, Evaluative metering and High Speed continuous drive mode selected.

Starting with the first tab in the first Red menu, Shoot 1, I make sure to select RAW only and not jpg.  As I prefer processing my own raw images, using Adobe Lightroom, I don’t need the camera to make jpegs.  Keeping both RAW and jpeg selected will fill up the buffer very quickly and slow down continuous shooting capability.

The “Lens aberration correction” gives access to a number of image enhancing, behind-the-scenes processing steps that make jpeg images look better.  As I shoot raw only and carry out these processes myself in Lightroom, I have no need of them for the camera jpegs.  Even if the 80D is set to RAW only, it will carry out these processing steps on each thumbnail jpeg it creates for the rear screen, using up processor power and impacting buffer and continuous shooting performance.  It will also use up more battery power.

I set the maximum iso to 6400 for my kind of wildlife shooting, though I prefer to not go over iso 3200 with the 80D if I can help it.  I make sure to press the Set button after making my selections and the OK field to lock them in.

I do the same for my Auto iso range, remembering that I will still keep a close watch on what iso settings the camera is selecting whilst I am taking images, by looking in the viewfinder.  I use Auto iso on the 80D in conjuction with M-mode.  The iso setting is then adjusted by the camera, in response to the shutter speed and aperture which are chosen by me.  The actual iso setting for each e