how to turn on lcd screen on canon 80d for sale
Do not point the camera toward an intense light source, such as the sun or an intense artificial light source. Doing so may damage the image sensor or the camera"s internal components.
* In addition to the above, the icons and symbols used on the camera"s buttons and displayed on the LCD monitor are also used in this article when discussing relevant operations and functionality.
The LCD screen on my new Canon 80D is not working properly. When I turn on the camera the LCD screen just stays black. I can see the menu, the info, I can see the settings when pressing the Q button, but it won"t show me what the lens is seeing. It only works when i enter Live view for some reason...
LifeView swings the mirror away to bring the picture that the lens sees to the sensor which displays it on the screen. If you want a camera that shows the picture nearly always on the screen you should have bought a mirror less camera and not a DSLR.
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-Even if a low ISO speed is set, noise may be noticeable in the displayed Live View image under low light. However, when you shoot, the image recorded will have less noise. (The image quality of the Live View image is different from that of the recorded image.)
-If the light source (illumination) within the image changes, the screen may flicker. If this happens, exit Live View shooting and resume Live View shooting under the actual light source.
-If you point the camera in a different direction, it may throw off the Live View image"s correct brightness momentarily. Wait until the brightness level stabilizes before shooting.
-If there is a very bright light source in the image, the bright area may appear black on the LCD monitor. However, the actual captured image will correctly show the bright area.
-During Live View shooting, certain Custom Function settings will not take effect. For details on Custom Function settings, refer to the instruction manual supplied with the camera.
-If the attached lens has an Image Stabilizer and you set the Image Stabilizer (IS) switch to
-The focus preset function is possible for Live View shooting only when using a (super) telephoto lens equipped with the focus preset mode released in and after the second half of 2011.
-If Live View shooting is used continuously for a prolonged period, the camera"s internal temperature may rise, and image quality may deteriorate. Always exit Live View shooting when you are not shooting.
-If you shoot a long exposure while the camera"s internal temperature is high, image quality may deteriorate. Exit Live View shooting and wait a few minutes before shooting again.
-If the camera"s internal temperature is high, the quality of images shot with high ISO speed or long exposure may deteriorate even just before the white [
-In magnified view, the shutter speed and aperture will be displayed in red. If you take the picture in magnified view, the exposure may not come out as desired. Return to the normal view before taking the picture.
-If the light source (illumination) changes while the Live View image is displayed, the screen may flicker and focusing may be difficult. If this happens, exit Live View shooting and perform AF under the actual light source under which you are shooting.
With your camera, you can shoot while viewing a real-time image on the camera"s LCD monitor. This is called "Live View shooting." This image can be magnified by 5x or 10x, so you can focus the camera more precisely.
Live View shooting will disable the following Custom Function settings;[C.Fn III 9 Mirror lockup] [C.Fn IV 10 Shutter/AE lock button][C.Fn IV 11 SET button when shooting].
If the light source within the image changes, the screen might flicker. If this happens, stop the Live View shooting, then resume Live View shooting under the actual light source to be used.
During Live View image display, if you point the camera in a different direction, it might throw off the correct brightness momentarily and the image might not look right. Wait until the image brightness stabilizes before shooting.
If there is a very bright light source in the picture, such as the sun, the bright area might be blackened on the LCD monitor. However, the actual captured image will correctly show the bright area.
If you set the [LCD brightness] to bright settings in low light, chrominance noise may appear in the Live View image. However, the chrominance noise will not be recorded to the captured image.
Under the [Custom Functions (C.Fn)] menu, setting [Auto Lighting Optimizer] to [0: Enable] may display a darkly-exposed (set with exposure compensation) image brighter.
The picture will be taken and the captured image is displayed on the LCD monitor. After the image review ends, the camera will return to Live View shooting automatically.
When you use Live View shooting for a long period, the camera"s internal temperature may increase and it can degrade image quality. Terminate Live View shooting when not shooting images. Before taking a long exposure, stop Live View shooting temporarily and wait several minutes before shooting.
Under [Custom Functions (C.Fn)], when [AF during Live View shooting] is set to [1: Quick mode] or [2: Live mode], you can focus with AF. Quick mode and Live mode use a different AF method.
This is the same as using AF as usual with the dedicated AF sensor. Although you can focus the desired area quickly, the Live View image will be interrupted momentarily during the AF operation.
Although you can set the AF mode to AI Servo AF or AI Focus AF, AF will stop when the camera returns to the Live View image display (step 11), so you cannot focus the moving subject.
The image sensor is used to focus. Although AF is possible with the Live View image displayed, the AF operation will take longer than with Quick mode. Also, achieving focus may be more difficult than with Quick mode.
If the image flickers, making it difficult to focus, stop the Live View shooting and resume Live View shooting under the actual light source to be used. Check that the flickering has stopped, then autofocus.
If you connect the camera to a PC that has the software supplied with the camera installed, you can shoot remotely while viewing the computer screen. For details, please see the related information.
What"s there to say about the Canon 80D? The camera is an excellent, well-built DSLR that produces reasonably sharp, detailed photographs and high quality Full HD video. It"s comfortable to hold with classic Canon DSLR styling, ergonomics and controls, and its versatile AF system is great -- especially thanks to Dual Pixel CMOS AF. The 80D feels like a tried-and-true Canon DSLR -- nothing over the top, ground-breaking or revolutionary, just what it"s meant to be. It"s a straightforward camera that works well, performs well, and captures pleasing images. And for that, it gets our applause.
But, the devil is in the details, so let"s begin with the Canon 80D"s image quality. Overall, the Canon 80D offers solid performance in the image quality department on nearly all fronts at both low and higher ISOs. The new 24-megapixel APS-C sensor now puts the Canon 80D more in-line with a number of major competing APS-C cameras, and results in excellent, highly detailed images. Despite the increase in resolution, the Canon 80D"s new sensor also shows modest improvements with a higher maximum native ISO over the 70D, lower shadow noise, and improved RAW high ISO performance, but it still lags somewhat behind the best modern competitors, though.
The Canon 80D"s sensor still features an optical low-pass filter, while most of its competitors are doing away with it to get an extra leg-up on fine detail resolving power. In some cases, this is a noticeable benefit, but it does have its drawbacks, namely moiré and other aliasing artifacts which can be difficult to remove later on. For the target customer of the Canon 80D we think it"s a smart choice to include a filter, but in terms of absolute maximum sharpness, the Canon 80D is at a disadvantage. On the plus side, at least for JPEG shooters, Canon has included their new "Fine Detail" Picture Style, which we first saw included on the high-end 5DS and 5DS R cameras. With the Canon 80D, Fine Detail doesn"t offer as striking of a difference as we saw with the 5DS/R cameras, but it does show a subtle improvement with more natural fine detail rendering and fewer sharpening halos.
On the subject of detail and sharpness, the Canon 80D can be purchased in a kit configuration with a new 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM lens. Featuring a new "Nano USM" AF system, this lens is not only versatile in terms of focal length range, but its AF performance is super quick and super quiet. What is disappointing, however, is its sharpness. The lens is not very sharp overall, and especially in the corners. Chromatic aberration and distortion is also problematic. You can correct for all of this with in-camera JPEGs -- and the 80D does a good job there -- but it"s quite apparent with uncorrected RAWs. For a one-lens solution, the 18-135mm is okay, but there are sharper options out there.
While certainly not as speedy and as quick-firing as its 7D Mark II big brother, the Canon 80D"s performance is a comfortable and capable middle ground that"s plenty fast for a variety of fast action, sports and wildlife pursuits. Claiming up to 7fps bursts in continuous mode, our lab tests show this to be the case if just a hair under spec. This is unchanged from the 70D"s burst rate, however buffer performance is noticeably improved which should keep you shooting for longer -- and all this despite the heftier 24MP resolution. According to our buffer depth tests, the 80D managed a healthy 53 best quality JPEGs, dipping down to 19 frames for RAW+JPEG. Buffer clearing was quite good, at only four seconds for JPEGs or 13 seconds for RAW+JPEG, and the camera lets you continue firing shots or change settings while clearing the buffer so you can keep on capturing.
The Canon 80D"s autofocus undergoes a big upgrade compared to its predecessor. Sporting a 45-point phase-detect autofocus system, it"s a very nice upgrade and much more versatile than the 19-point AF system of the 70D. The 80D doesn"t offer as many of the AF Area modes, however, as the higher-end EOS cameras like the 7D Mark II, but it does offer AF functionality down to f/8 unlike the 70D. Owners of long supertelephoto lenses and teleconverters will be pleased with this upgrade.
Of course, you can"t forget about Dual Pixel CMOS AF. Debuting on the 70D, the addition of on-sensor phase detect pixels to the sensor allows for vastly improved live view focusing for both stills and video. And it works beautifully in the Canon 80D. For stills, Live View AF is super fast, and with the combination of the touchscreen LCD to quickly change the focus point, it"s a very useful feature. For video work, the Dual Pixel system provides pleasing, smooth and cinematic-looking AF performance. Video focus speed is adjustable to fit your shooting style or mood, and overall the subject tracking works very well, making the Canon 80D a rather versatile video camera.
The Canon 80D"s AF performance overall is quite good, barring one interesting discovery. While the 80D is spec"d for better low-light autofocusing compared to the earlier 70D when using the optical viewfinder (-3.0 EV vs. -0.5 EV), our low-light AF lab tests didn"t confirm that despite testing with multiple lenses -- at least initially. We found the 80D"s low-light AF performance to be a bit of a mixed experience; on the one hand, it can indeed focus on a sharp, contrasty targets down to its rated light level of -3.0EV. That said, though, other less expensive and less highly-rated Canon bodies outperformed the 80D when dealing with a less-contrasty subject in similarly dark conditions.
Outside of the lab, the Canon 80D felt decently quick to autofocus in low-light conditions. Using the Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L II lens, we compared the 80D to the Canon T6s. On a very dark, poorly lit, indoor subject both cameras struggled to acquire focus (however the 1D X Mark II was able to acquire focus quite easily on the same subject). However, with a better lit indoor subject, on which both the 80D and T6s were able to successfully acquire focus, the Canon 80D did feel consistently quicker to acquire focus.
Like the 70D before it, the new Canon 80D is very much a hybrid camera -- designed for videography as well as photography. As mentioned, its Dual Pixel CMOS AF is excellent and makes shooting video much simpler and more straightforward. You no longer have to resort to manual focus like in the early days of DSLR video, well, unless you want to -- though the 80D doesn"t offer focus peaking.
As for other video features, the Canon 80D offers a good, well-rounded set of amenities, though noticeably absent is the increasingly popular choice of 4K resolution. There"s a growing number of 4K-capable cameras, at a variety of price points, so we"re a bit disappointed that Canon left this feature out of the 80D. The new DIGIC 6 image processor does allow for 1080/60p video now, though you can"t use that frame rate with the higher quality ALL-I compression -- IPB only for 60p (or 50p). For both ALL-I and IPB video, the quality looks good to our eyes with lots of detail and decent dynamic range. You can even use the new Fine Detail Picture Style with video if you want. Advanced videographers will also enjoy the addition of a headphone jack, though there is still no clean HDMI output.
Perhaps the only other major drawback to video other than the lack of 4K is the continuous recording time limit. Long having been a factor for Canon shooters, the 80D carries on the tradition of stopping continuous video at 29 minutes, 59 seconds. For those needing to record long, continuous scenes or events, be ready to press the record button manually after 30 minutes.
Overall, the Canon 80D is a solid, well-built, well-rounded multimedia DSLR. Its ergonomics and design are classic Canon, which translates to easy, comfortable functionality with tons of external controls. The camera"s image quality is very good. Thanks to its new 24MP sensor, it shows improvements to both low and higher ISOs, though competing cameras still have an edge image quality-wise over the 80D.
Performance is very good, too, with decent burst speeds, improved buffer depths, excellent battery life, and a new, more versatile 45-point AF system. Combined with Dual Pixel CMOS AF technology for fast live view AF, the Canon 80D is well suited for a variety of shooting scenarios, including general use, portraits and traveling as well as more challenging endeavors like sports and wildlife. Video is also a hallmark feature, and while it"s sadly lacking a few notable features like 4K, overall the 80D offers good quality video with lots of features for both beginners and advanced video creators.
All in all, while the Canon 80D feels more evolutionary than revolutionary, it"s an all-around excellent DSLR with a good combination of image quality, advanced features, great build quality, and a good price point. It"s a great still camera, and Canon"s Dual-Pixel autofocus is unbeatable for video. All told, the Canon 80D gets the nod as a Dave"s Pick in our book.
The Canon EOS 80D was designed for enthusiast photographers. Since its release back in 2016, it has become very popular because of its versatile capabilities and strong build. You might also like to read reviews of Canon M50 camera done by PhotographyTalk.com - this is one of the best mirrorless camera available today.
Although some of the camera’s features have become outdated because of new technological advancements, the Canon EOS 80D is still a powerful device that can make astonishing results in the right hands.
The Canon EOS 80D revolves around a 24-million-pixel APS-C sensor and a DIGIC 6 processing engine. This combination provides very good image quality and satisfactory results when shooting images in low-light conditions.
The camera sports Dual Pixel CMOS AF technology and offers 45 cross-type autofocus points. This autofocus system works great both for taking stills and recording videos as it is both fast and accurate.
Sports and wildlife photographers will be happy to know that the EOS 80D offers burst shooting at 7 frames per second, and it can create either 110 JPEG or 25 raw files before the buffer fills up. If you add up the impressive autofocus system, you will understand why this camera is very popular among action photographers.
Although the camera does not offer 4K video capabilities, it has support for Full HD (1920 x 1080) recording at 60 fps. For this purpose, Dual Pixel CMOS AF and the Movie Servo AF jointly help to keep the focus on the subject, while you can have more control over the audio effects by attaching an external microphone and headphones. Read more about "5 Things to Know Before You Buy a Canon 5D Mark IV in 2020" on our website PhotographyTalk.com.
The design of this camera is very intuitive. Although there are many buttons and controls, it feels natural to handle and you will undoubtedly learn to operate the camera easily thanks to its smart design.
The Canon EOS 80D is made to withstand the elements as well. The camera works great in extreme weather conditions since it is weather-sealed and built of magnesium-alloy, which is well known to be a very durable (and lightweight) material.
There are two LCD displays on the EOS 80D - one on the back and another on the top of the camera. The rear screen uses touchscreen technology which is very helpful for quickly adjusting focus while you are in the middle of shooting. The top LCD display is also helpful for checking and adjusting the camera’s settings in no time.
The rear vari-angle LCD screen measures 3 inches and has a resolution of 1.04m-dots. For those who prefer framing shots using a viewfinder, the Canon EOS 80D has a pentaprism viewfinder with 100% frame coverage.
This is a relatively affordable camera and you get a new Canon EOS 80D (body only) for as little as $899, but we might have a few tips on how to get this camera even cheaper.
Buying a Canon EOS 80D bundle can help you to save some money. For example, on Amazon, you can buy a camera with five different types of the Canon EOS 80D lenses, macro filter kit, 64GB memory card, and accessory bundle for only $1,199.00.
You can get a used Canon EOS 80D in good condition for just $659. By visiting online platforms such as MPB, you can find a vast range of photo and filmmaking kit for good value, so if you want to upgrade your kit with an EOS 80D (or just about any other camera, for that matter), head over to MPB to check out their used inventory.
For photographers who use SLR cameras, AV or A mode determines whether all the photograph is in focus or part of. For example photographers can choose to have a sharp foreground and background, or they can blur the background. If you’re after more technical details, Wikipedia already has a great article on how aperture works in photography.
On the other hand if you’re taking a photograph of a bird and you want the animal in focus but not the background, then you would choose a small F number like F/4.
You can see what aperture your digital SLR camera is set at by looking at the back LCD screen for a F number. As you can see by the image above right, the aperture in that example is set at F4.0. The display shown on your LCD may look different to this example, depending on the make and model of your camera.
Once you have AV mode turned on, you can change the f-number by rotating the main dial above the shutter button. Note: this is for Canon digital cameras. You may need to refer to your manual to find out how to change the F stop for your specific brand of camera.
When the f number is small, the lens diaphragm is actually wide open. So if someone says to you that you need to open your lens more, they mean to lower the aperture or F number. Alternatively, if the aperture is a large number, say F22 then the lens diaphragm is smaller or more closed. This often causes much confusion with beginners.
Take images at both ends of the scale. One with as low a F number as possible and one with as high a F number as possible. More importantly, when you view them on your computer take notice of how much of the photo is in focus.
Now for the second photo, the aperture was set at a smaller number f/5.6 so only the rocks and sand at the foreground are in sharp focus while the background elements are blurred.
And here is an example of a close object photographed with an aperture value of f/5.6. As you can see the foreground object is in sharp focus and the background is blurry.
It’s also important to note that results from aperture settings can change from one lens to another. For example just because an aperture value of f/5.6 for your macro lens results in a blurred background, it doesn’t mean you should also set your telephoto or wide angle lens to the same f stop. Therefore its important to experiment with all your camera lenses so you know your equipment better.
Understanding how each mode works separately, is vitally important before trying M (manual mode). Learn how to use aperture priority and how different F numbers effect the overall image. Then and only then, will you fully understand how to use it when shooting in manual (M) mode.
Set your digital SLR camera to aperture priority mode. For Canon users, this means turning your mode dial to AV. Nikon users need to change the dial to the letterA. If you don’t see the letters AV or A, then refer to your camera manual.
Change your camera’s aperture F stop to the lowest number possible for your lens. It’s important to note that each lens will be able to shoot at different apertures. Expensive lenses can go as low as F1, where most on average will be able to shoot at around F4.
Go outside and photograph a close object where the background elements are far away in distance. This is extreme to ensure you easily see the visual differences as you change the F number. On a low F number, you should notice the background is very blurred, when compared to the main object that is in focus.
Download and open all 4 photographs on your computer and see the difference that can be seen in the background. Notice the lower the F number, the more blurred the background. The higher the F number, the more of the background that is seen in focus.
This post walks you through how to make a time-lapse with the Canon 80D camera, step by step. We’ll also discuss why people create time-lapses, typical settings, how to plan, and more.
The Canon 80D can take photos at specified intervals, stitch them together automatically, and generate a time-lapse movie. They’re produced at full-HD (1080p) in either 30fps or 24fps, using the MOV (ALL-i) format.
Switch the mode dial to anything other than “Creative Filters” mode. (That’s the mode that looks like two overlapping circles). For a quick refresher on what each mode is, be sure to read, “10 Canon Camera Modes (and why you need them)
As soon as the recording finishes, the camera automatically stitches the time-lapse movie together for you, and disables “Time-lapse movie” mode in the menu.
One of the most common time-lapse questions goes like this: “How long do I need to record to get a 30 second time-lapse movie?” There’s two ways to answer that: The convoluted way, and the easy way.
If you want a 30 second time-lapse movie shot at 30fps (frames per second), with 5 second intervals between captures, you’ll need to record for 75 minutes. Here’s the formula:
In step #6 above, you set the interval and number of shots. As you make adjustments to those settings, the camera automatically calculates two things:
Here’s a handy reference chart you can use to help guide your decisions on intervals for time-lapses when you’re just starting out. Eventually, you’ll learn which settings work best for you in certain situations.
Simply put, people make time-lapses to show the passage of time at high speed. Videographers use them as transitions between scenes in video productions. For those of us not working on the next Netflix Original motion picture, quality time-lapses are just plain cool!
Back in the day, you needed fancy cameras, complex equipment, and intervalometers to create time-lapses. Photographers manually stitched together photos that were captured every 1 to 5 seconds, and played them back at 24fps to create magical movies. These days creating a time-lapse is lots simpler.
What’s the difference between time-lapse, hyper-lapse, and motion-lapse? For that matter, what are hyper-lapses and motion-lapses anyway? This section defines what each one is, with example videos.
In a time-lapse, the camera is “static”–meaning it doesn’t move during the recording. It’s usually mounted to a tripod. Frames are captured at slow intervals over a long period of time. When played back at 24fps, time appears to move very fast.
The camera is mounted to a gimbal, or motorized slider with programmable waypoints. You record the time-lapse as normal, and the gimbal or slider introduces small amounts of pan, tilt, or tracking movements during the recording. The result is a time-lapse with a pan, tilt, or tracking motion elements — hence the “motion” in motion-lapse.
The camera records a time-lapse, but instead of a static shot, the camera moves long distances during the recording. The results are dramatic, and gives your viewers the effect of traveling through the scene while the world around them moves at high speed.
The best time-lapse subjects fall into two categories. First are subjects that will noticeably change during your recording. Something that will have a distinct “before” and “after”. Second, are subjects with lots of movement. Busy scenes with moving elements.
TripodEnsure your camera is firmly planted on a stable surface or a nice sturdy tripod, so it doesn’t move. You don’t want your camera to get bumped during recording
Space on your memory card?Don’t fill up your memory card half way through your recording! If possible, try to use a fresh memory card, just to be safe
Get comfortableYou may be recording a while, so bring a folding chair and get comfortable. Catch up on your favorite social media feeds, or read a good book
Battery charged?You definitely don’t want to run out of juice during your recording! To add a level of confidence, get a battery grip like an extra battery, your camera will last twice as long
Drop a comment below, and let me know what kinds of epic time-lapses you plan to film, and post links to your social media pages, so we can go check them out!
If you’re looking for a high performance mid-range DSLR that is equally adept at shooting stills as it is video, consider one of the best in recent years:
The body is now $200 off, and can be had for the very reasonable (considering its performance level) price of only $999 USD. That’s one of the best deals I can recall for the 80D recently.
With the 80D you’re getting the culmination of years of research and experience in Canon DSLR design and build. It’s built like a tank. A battery goes for hours and hours — much longer than its mirrorless competition. The Canon user interface, now featuring a touch screen LCD, is best-in-class when it comes to speed and ease of use. A new 24MP sensor produces high detailed stills with beautiful dynamic range.
Perhaps best of all, and the reason why Canon has won over so many stills and video shooters in recent years, is its groundbreaking Dual Pixel Auto Focus (DPAF). It is, in a word, amazing.
There’s a reason why camera bloggers and camera enthusiasts always compare any new camera’s AF — be it from Sony, Panasonic, Olympus or any other brand — to Canon’s DPAF. Simply touch a moving subject on the LCD and the 80D will automatically track it, keeping it in focus, even as it moves rapidly across the frame.
DPAF is also smart enough to recognize faces, making it perfect for event videography, interviews, sports and other cases where a person is moving if even slightly, Trying to keep a subject in focus manually would be otherwise near impossible.
For those just starting out I’d recommend pairing the 80D body with something like the highly flexible 18-135mm kit lens. At 18mm you can get nice landscape shots and as needed be able to frame wide enough in tight spaces, such as interiors. For drama and portraits, zoom in to 135mm and you’ll be treated with nice detail and plenty of bokeh. You’ll definitely be able to discern the different of shots off the 80D vs. the iPhone, even the new iPhone X.
I’ve been shooting Canon DSLR for about 14 years now. From the 60D, then to the 70D (the first model to feature DPAF), and, recently, to the upgraded 80D.
I find Canon rock solid. Never had an issue. For pure video shooters I’d suggest taking a look at the GH5 (via Amazon). It’s twice the price, but it does have 4K and a host of video-friendly features. But for those shooting video and stills, the 80D is a tantalizing package to be sure.
The Canon EOS 80D body is now on sale. A bargain buy if you ask me. It should last many, many years. I paid almost twice that for mine earlier this year (granted, it came with a lens).
BTW- if you plan to primarily shoot video, you may want to consider the Canon EOS 80D Video Creator Kit. It’s discounted now by 32% (an incredible deal) and includes the 80D body, but also some key accessories which enables you to open the box and begin shooting right away: a Rode Videomic, power zoom adapter (works very well and provides camcorder-like zoom operation), 18-135mm Canon do-all telephoto lens, and a memory card. Basically, it’s a turnkey package.
Quick tip: you can save a few hundred dollars more and pick up the 70D (via Amazon), still a very solid DSLR and it also features Canon’s outstanding DPAF. Highly recommended for those on a budget.
Meantime, the best thing you can do is get out there and shoot and shoot some more. Make mistakes. Laugh it off and learn how to get better. And go fill up even more memory cards. Rule #1: have fun.
Ms.Josey 
Ms.Josey