solder lcd display made in china

Soldering iron automatic detection of their work status are not in use in a quiescent state, arriving to set the sleep time, the temperature of the iron automatically lower the temperature to 200°C enter into sleep state, can effectively prevent the oxidation of iron head and prolong the iron tip service life, energy saving and environmental protection. The sleep time can be set range 0 to 99 minutes in 1 minute steps, users can be set based on usage, if you do not need a soldering iron sleep, the sleep time is set to 0.

After soldering iron enter into sleep state, start the timer program, set the shutdown time did not wake up from sleep, automatic shutdown, energy saving and environmental protection. Auto power off time setting range 0 to 99 minutes in 1 minute steps.

Adapted to the environmental impact or replacement heater, iron top parts caused by iron temperature and display temperature deviation can be corrected by this function, the calibration temperature range: -50℃~+50 ℃

PIN connection is the most widely used connection because it is very steady. Unfortunately, not everyone is an expert at soldering. Every now and then, we can hear customers complaining about the high failure rate after the PINs were soldered on PCB. And I was always wondering if they did the soldering properly. More often than not, it’s the soldering problem. It’s not the quality problem of LCD screen itself. We feel it is our obligation to do some tests to help those who lack experience.

In order to test the impact of the soldering temperature, we deliberately made it 350 degrees Celsius far higher than the normal. The soldering iron head was placed at the distance of 4.0 mm from bottom of LCD screen.

It only took about 4.0 seconds to melt the glue before it bubbled. It would cool down in a few seconds after the soldering iron head was removed and then it solidified slowly and shrank when it was completely cooled.

One interesting idea was that we located the PIN which was responsible for the missing segments of LCD screen and re-soldered it with overheated temperature. Pulled the PIN down a little, which would make it temperately connect in normal again. We could see it displaying the whole diagram for a while. When we were glad that we fixed the LCD screen, the old problem repeated again. It was easy to understand because the overheated temperature damaged the glue and turned the chemical composition into something else. Now the LCD screen was completely damaged and was unrepairable.

Let us try another experiment. We soldered the perfectly normal LCD screen with overheated temperature. It was as sure as the sun comes from the east that the old missing segment problem recurred. I am going to remind everyone here don’t ever solder the PINs with overheated temperature because it will definitely cause the missing segment problem.

Let us hit the PINs with overheated temperature while we don’t use the UV glue to fasten the positions of the PINs. Wait. Is it possible not to use UV glue? Of course, it isn’t. It is never able to fasten the PINs without UV glue. This was just an experiment to explain what would happen in a hypothetical situation. Now we continued the experiment. We put a 350 degree Celsius soldering iron head directly on PIN for 10 seconds and more until the polarizer turned yellow. To our surprise, the LCD screen was working perfectly fine. Now we could conclude that it was UV glue which was overheated that caused the missing segments and other problems. But we can’t make a LCD screen without it.

1. The distance from the soldering iron head to the bottom of LCD screen should be at least 4.0 mm and the temperature should be below 260 degrees Celsius. The time should be less than 4 seconds for the soldering iron head on PINs to avoid making the glue bubble.

2. The soldering iron head should contact two adjacent PINs at the same time and make the heat transfer more evenly. It should form 30 degree angle with PINs because this will make contacting area larger and heat transfer faster. It will be a perfect heating condition if we can make the two adjacent PINs reach the same temperature at the same time.

3. It is forbidden to let the PINs bear any pressure while we are welding the PINs. In order to prevent the displacing of the PINs because of the pressure from outside, it is best if we lay the front surface of LCD screen flat on a table.

NHD-12864AZ-FL-YBW | Monochrome Graphic Module | 128x64 Pixels | Transflective LCD | Yellow/Green Backlight | STN (+) Positive Yellow/Green Display | Non-Stocked

Newhaven 128x64 graphic Liquid Crystal Display module shows dark pixels on a bright yellow/green background. This transflective LCD Display is visible with ambient light or a backlight while offering a wide operating temperature range from -20 to 70 degrees Celsius. This NHD-12864AZ-FL-YBW display has an optimal view of 6:00, operates at 5V supply voltage and is RoHS compliant.

Easily modify any connectors on your display to meet your application’s requirements. Our engineers are able to perform soldering for pin headers, boxed headers, right angle headers, and any other connectors your display may require.

Choose from a wide selection of interface options or talk to our experts to select the best one for your project. We can incorporate HDMI, USB, SPI, VGA and more into your display to achieve your design goals.

Update: Over a year after getting this, the threading that connects the tip to the body kept coming lose, and I figured I would contact the seller (other than this problem, It had been working great -- and tbh I was a bit rough in the way I was storing it). The seller immediately offered to replace it, no questions asked -- and they even re-shipped the replacement when I made a typo in the address I gave them! I could not ask for better customer service. The product itself has been excellent. I"m not a heavy duty user, I solder a few times a month on average, and for that it has been just perfect. It heats up in a matter of seconds, has great temp control, is comfortable, has a nice flexible cord, and uses standard inexpensive tips. It has all of the features I needed as a casual solderer, at a price that no one else came near.

Until recently I haven"t soldered a whole lot, and have only used el-cheapo soldering irons, i.e. old radio shack entry level, or harbor freight $3.99 special (although I did modify them with some decent Aven replacement tips). As a recent retiree, I"ve been doing more and more electronics projects involving PCB soldering, and wanted something a little more robust. I toyed with the idea of a knockoff T12, but the review on them were very hit and miss, so I landed on this baby. Just picked it up a couple hours ago, and so far I am impressed!

- Stand doesn"t fit the iron: I doubt anyone is buying this for the accessories, but if you were counting on using the included large soldering stand be aware that the coil is too big and the iron falls right through it. It probably could be modded to work (in my case the iron fit perfectly in my old stand so I was good)

- Tips: I tinned up and did a couple test solders with the original and one replacement tip. No issues, but again time will tell if they last a couple years, a couple months, or a couple solders.

The station body is rather small, fitted with anti-slip feet, and has a clear LCD display (12 mm digits) showing both actual and set temperatures, complete with operation indicators:

The mains cable is fixed to the unit, and the exit is not on the rear, but on left side, making it really uncomfortable on the bench, so I promptly opened the case and installed an IEC power inlet on the rear and, at the same time, wired a green power ON LED (you can see two red/black wires in the photos) because you can tell the station is on only by looking at the LCD, and after the first day of use I forget it on for one week…

The tip temperature was displayed accurately, with only 3-4 °C of error, but only at steady state. The sensor is far form the tip, so you can cool the tip (by touching the wet sponge), and the real temp is shown decreasing only after many seconds of delay.

I tested it in our small production environment, and I found that the productivity (number of good joints per hour that can be made) of this tool is comparable to one of our older Weller units. I could even solder some SMD parts.

A little help from you if you can. I have the N16CH which has gone faulty on me. What I require is some data on the special lcd that this station uses. Can you or anybody reading this forum identify the pin out of the display used. It is a 22 pin device, 11 pins each side. for example which pins are the "com0,1,2,3 then "Y1--- to Y18. I know that I can apply some logic to find out, most DIL ic chips are pin 1 at the lower left corner with the legend reading from left to right, but I may be wrong. So any help from you guys would be great.

We have about 25 of these soldering stations in my workplace, but after 5 or 6 years of use, their display backlight started to fail. Without backlight, the display is almost illegible. Since 4 stations have developed this problem so far, I"ve decided to investigate.

At the time Ersa didn’t offer standalone replacement displays; they forced you to buy a new control board costing a whopping 160 EUR, which is almost half the price of a new soldering station. Nowadays it is possible to buy replacement displays under the catalog number 3EBLCD128x64 for 33 EUR, though at the time the only option I could find was this American e-shop, but shipping costs to Europe start around 100 USD. That"s better, but still not exactly cost-effective (50 USD displays, 100 USD shipping). The displays are probably manufactured somewhere in China, but I couldn"t identify their original manufacturer, nor I was able to find another source (Ebay, Alibaba...) for them. If someone finds them, please let me know in the comments. Here are markings that are on the back of the display:

Anyway, since I couldn"t get new displays for reasonable price, I decided to replace burned backlight LEDs in the displays. I used LTW-108DCG-HS10 as replacement LEDs in this guide, but any miniature white LEDs with at least 1000 mcd luminous intensity should do. See step 14 for more information.