audi lcd display repair free sample

- If the bulbs are out behind the display, then all the rows and colunms do work on the Audi/VW/Seat instrument cluster"s LCD display, but the background light of the LCD display is uneven, or some cases the display is completely dark. This case no need to repair the pixels, you do not need a silver cable, nor a new LCD display of the instrument cluster. This case you just need to buy the lightbulbs that provide light behind the Audi/VW/Seat LCD display.

- If the Audi/VW/Seat instrument cluster"s LCD display has really pixel problems, then typically lines or colunms of the display are missing. Several cases the characters are broken, numbers and letters shown on the instrument cluster"s display are unreadable - the backlight is even. In case of a real pixel problem, when one or more pixels are missing from the display, you need to buy a silver ribbon cable or some cases a complete Audi/VW/Seat LCD display. It really depends on that if it is a BMW, a Mercede and Audi, Saab, VW or other make, and of course if it a MID display, a speedometer, a board computer or other LCD dipslay. Most cases, when you have a pixel failure, and you decide to repair it, it"s really worth to buy a set of bulbs too, as bulbs tend to go out during repair - this is due to the massive mechanical shocks experienced during the pixel repair procedure.

Well, most of the Audi/VW/Seat pixel repair KITs we sell are designed to be simple and easy to use. The word easy should now be the subject of further discussion. An average Audi/VW/Seat instrument cluster"s LCD pixel repair is far more difficult then replacing a lightbulb. You definitely have to have good mechnical skills, and some household tools, such as nippers, screewdrivers, household tape, and other goodies to fix things around the house.

If you have to ask one of these questions, then you definitly should NOT do an Audi/VW/Seat instrument cluster"s LCD display pixel repair at home (we were asked these questions before, this is not a joke):

Well, Pixelfix is an internationally registered trademark. Pixelfix only sells the highest quality Audi/VW/Seat speedometer LCD display silver ribbon cables, that are capable of lifetime operation. We sell most of our repairs with lifetime warranty, and you will find the exact same displays, cables, and other spare parts that we use for professional repairs. The silver ribbon cables we use for Audi, VW, A6, TT, A3, A4, Passat LCD display pixel repair are real silver, which is a very expensive base material, that is why the price is much higher compared to carbon ribbon cables.

You may keep an eye on your package, if you ordered the Audi/VW/Seat speedometer LCD display silver ribbon cable with postal delivery on you may check the status on your local post office"s website, or if you ordered next day deliver then you need to see TNT / FedEx or DHL tracking site for status.

All Audi/VW/Seat instrument cluster"s LCD displays, silver ribbon cables, speedometer spare parts bought in the webshop will come with an invoice. All invoices are issued electronically, so you will receive an e-mail with the printable invoice in it. This invoce can be printed and filed to the accounts.

No worries, we do provide technical support, and help repairing of the Audi/VW/Seat instrument cluster"s LCD display. However there is an advice you ought to consider before starting the work. If you have not repaired Audi/VW/Seat instrument cluster"s LCD display before, this is mandatory. PLEASE read the manual, and if available watch the video BEFORE starting the work. This will definitely save a lot of time and will help to do a hassle free work.

No worries, this symptom can be due to a bagatel problem which can be fixed easily. If there are no pixels on the Audi/VW/Seat instrument cluster"s display at all, that MUST be due to one of the followings:

- the contacts of the Audi/VW/Seat LCD display or the panel are not perfectly clean - this case there is no contact between the Audi/VW/Seat LCD display and the panel

- the alignment of the silver ribbon cable is no good, so the pads of the silver ribbon cable do not match the pads of the Audi/VW/Seat LCD display or panel.

Let"s talk about the worst case scenario, you started the repair, but you do not seem to deal with the repair of the Audi/VW/Seat instrument cluster"s display. This case we have a backup solution. We always stand behind our customers, so you may send the Audi/VW/Seat LCD display unit to us for repair, and no matter what the condition of the unit is, we can help. More precisely, up to this point we always succeeded, meaning none of our customers managed to do such a damage in the unit that we could not fix. The repair does not cost a fortune, in a lucky case it is 20-30 Euro plus return delivery cost only.

Dead LCD pixels, fading LCD pixel on the instrument cluster are quite bad looking parts of a good car’s interior, so it is understandable that you may want to get it fixed. Replacement of the complete unit is quite expensive, that is why we try to encourage people to get it fixed by a professional on half price, or do the ribbon cable replacement at home on tenth price. As we sell quality flexible ribbon cables, bulbs / lamps only for DIY repair. This very common pixel failure is known on several units, like dashboard instrument cluster (speedometer), MID, and radio units, OBC (on board computer), and SID, and happen to several CAR manufacturers that use Siemens VDO electronics such as BMW 3 5 7 series, Audi A3 A4 A6 A8, VW, Seat, Mercedes C and E class, SAAB & Rover - you will find several different models on our site.

Hungary, India, Korea, United States, Republic of the Congo, United Kingdom, Egypt, Pakistan, India, Chile, Singapore, Saudi Arabia, Egypt, Myanmar, South Africa, United States, Côte d"Ivoire, South Korea, Germany, Korea, Spain, Argentina, Kenya, Austria, Switzerland, Canada, New Zealand G, , Denmark, Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg, Sweden, Australia, Norway, Ireland, Singapore, USA, Finland, France, UK, Italy, Portugal

For years now I have been losing rows of pixels from my 2001 Audi S4 instrument cluster LCD display.  At first, probably 8 years ago, I lost a row in the winter and then it came back in the spring.  Then it went away again in the winter and so on.  But then it seemed to be permanently gone with other rows coming and going, either depending on the weather or who knows what else.  But before my repair, I had numerous rows permanently dead.  Here’s what the LCD looked like before the repair (you can see something like 17 rows of pixels are dead):

Actually, from my research I guess I’m not so bad off.  Many people had many more rows die and when their cars were much younger.  But still, mine has gotten bad enough that I can’t read the song title from the radio or the temperature outside.  So it’s time for a repair.

The challenge in this repair is that the LCD display is not an individual module intended to be replaced but merely a component on a circuit board.  And that circuit board contains smarts like the odometer reading and so forth which makes replacing the whole instrument cluster a real pain.  (Obviously, if it was easy to update the mileage, there’d be rampant abuse.)  In the end, it took a full day and it turned out to be one of the hardest repairs or hacks I’ve done.  Fortunately, there is some really good information out there but I got stuck in a couple of places so I thought I’d do my own write up with my own pictures to hopefully help out anyone else who is going to do this.

Okay, first of all, many thanks to S4_Raleigh and by extension, MacGyver, both from AudiZine.  S4_Raleigh wrote up the great post on the repair using info from MacGyver and that’s what my post here is based on.  In fact, I recommend you start by reading that post now (just the first in the thread) before continuing.

Next, before starting to pull apart your dashboard, read through this whole post.  You may well decide it isn’t for you.  And that doesn’t mean you aren’t smart – in fact, you may be smarter to just pay somebody to do the repair for you.  Especially if you can live without the car for the few days while the instrument cluster is sent away for repair.  There are services that specialize in this work and have relatively quick turnarounds.  But I couldn’t find a reliable review or rating for somebody that could turn it around quickly and I couldn’t find somebody near me that I could bring it to.  So I decided that I would rather not take a chance on sending it out and be without my car for a few days but you may decide the opposite.

I recommend Chip Quik.  This was the first time I used it and I agree with the author of the original post that it’s the way to go.  The idea is that rather than using regular solder which firms up quickly, the Chip Quik (opposite of the name) firms up slowly which allows you more “open time” with the solder.  That’s not normally a good thing but as you’ll see below, it’s really important for removing the old LCD.  I got my lead-free Chip Quik from Amazon.

And of course, an important item is the LCD itself.  If you don’t already know, an LCD works by opening or closing cells with a light source behind it.  In the Audi instrument cluster, the backlight continues to work properly but the LCD stops open or closing cells on a row by row basis.  You want to make sure you get an exact replacement for the LCD.  From what I read, you can get cheaper LCD replacements that are brighter than the original display – that means that the cells allow too much of the backlight through.  You end up with an LCD that doesn’t match the rest of the car and is generally too bright.  So it’s important to get a good match and I was very pleased to find that on eBay.  But I bought the second to last one so if that listing has ended, you can search for the seller spitzgerald to see if he has a new listing – if he claims it is OEM, it is.

6.  Remove the dial pointers and the display disc, very carefully.  I put some blue tape on the disc right at the center dial and that let me use a small screwdriver to gently pry.  I read in other places that you should not use a screwdriver but I couldn’t get my fingers under it enough to pull.  Maybe some sort of plastic tool without sharp edges that is used for prying electronics apart would work.  Or in addition to the blue tape, maybe try some paperboard from your recycle bin.  For me, a dull worn screwdriver worked well but just be careful since there’s no undenting a disc if it is bent.  Set the pointer aside in a location that you’ll remember which pointer goes to which dial.  You will need to remove 4 pointers: the coolant temperature (“C” to “H”), the gasoline, the tachometer, and the speedometer.  (Do not remove the pointers on the oil temperature or on the battery gauges – they will not be removed.)  With the 4 pointers removed, you can now lift the tab and turn the tachometer disc and you can simply turn the speedometer disc – both will come off once they have been turned so the holes near the center align with the tabs on the center post.

7.  Remove the main gauge frame.  First, you’ll need to snip the white plastic loop connecting the main gauge frame to the oil temp and battery gauges.  The loops look like upside down Omegas (if that helps).  Snip it anywhere on the curved part.  I used some serious scissors but angled snips would work too.  Also snip the small connection between the main gauge frame and the two digit readout blocks (where the time and date show up on one side and the trip and odometer show up on the other).  It’s a small white connector piece near the center of the dial and in the center of the digit readout block.  I was a little hesitant to snip these parts but after I did it, I realized there really was no harm in doing it.  Then you can turn the board over and push the tabs to release the plastic frame.  You will also need to push the plastic part from the right side peg through the back to release the white gauge frame.  (In the pictures, I hadn’t clipped the connector to the clock and odometer displays and had removed them but I later read that I hadn’t need to do that so I clipped the connector later and put the clock and odometer blocks back in but don’t have pictures to show of that.)

8.  Remove the metal frame holding the LCD over the backlight.  Turn the board over to the back and using needle-nose pliers, bend the four tabs of the metal cage enough that they can push through the board.  Use caution here because you are now getting into sensitive areas and don’t want to manhandle anything.  Once the cage has been removed, you’ll see that you can now lift up the LCD panel off of the backlight.  Keep track of all the parts here.  On mine, I had two rubbery strips under the LCD panel and one of them stuck to the backlight assembly while the other stuck to the LCD panel so I had to remove it from the panel and put it on the backlight.  I was careful to keep the orientation the same, just in case that mattered.

9.  Now the first hard part – time to remove the old LCD.  (That’s right; up until now, this has been easy.)  Follow the Chip Quik instructions.  I think I started with the flux pen, though I can’t remember for sure.  Melt some Chip Quik across the tiny traces on the LCD as though you were doing a really sloppy job of soldering – the Chip Quik will end up as sort of one long bead across all the traces.  After you have some there (not too much, but enough – you’ll know), run the iron back and forth over the Chip Quik to keep it warm and as you are doing this, apply slight upward pressure to the LCD ribbon.  At some point, it will come off the board.  (I forgot to take a picture here, sorry.)  There is a gray rubber strip running down each side of the backlight assembly.  When I first removed the LCD, one of the rubber strips stuck to the LCD so I had to remove it from that and put it back in the right place on the backlight assembly.  I made sure to keep the correct orientation in case it made a difference.  (I don’t think it did.)

10.  The next hard part – cleaning the board.  The idea is that you run the iron over the Chip Quik that remains to keep it warm and then scoop it up with something.  The Chip Quik instructions say to use a swab.  The only swabs I have are for my ears and they left some cotton bits behind so I’m sure there’s something better out there for this job.  I also had trouble when a Chip Quik blob ran away on me and lodged itself on some other connectors.  At this point, I got out my desoldering braid and sucked up the errant blob and made sure that the connectors it visited were now well soldered.  Then I returned my attention to the LCD trace area and cleaned that up with the desoldering braid.  I kept repeating the process until the area looked clean of solder then I used the alcohol pad provided by Chip Quik to clean up the residue left behind.

11.  Another hard part – tin the traces.  You need to melt a small portion of solder on to the traces – remember you just cleaned up solder that was there so now you need to replace what you removed to accept the new LCD ribbon.  Ideally, you want to lay down a small and equal amount on every trace.  This is where you get to test your eyes.  Even with the lighted magnifying glass, my eyes had a hard time keeping track of where I was.  I got into a rhythm by probably the 4th or 5th to last one – figures.

12.  The hardest part – solder the new LCD.  Why is this hard?  Because there are so many freaking little things to solder.  Flux the newly tinned traces on the board.  Put the ribbon of the new LCD down over the traces on the board.  Pay extremely close attention to make sure that everything is lined up perfectly.  I found that the stickiness of the flux helped the ribbon from moving too much but I still had to keep an eye on it.  Then I started applying heat to the top of the ribbon.  When that area cooled, it meant part of the ribbon was anchored so I could stop stressing about the ribbon moving.  Then I could move on to each trace, one by one.  I went quickly so I didn’t damage any of the traces.

I’m going to interrupt the instructions here to let you know that I had a problem here that I didn’t realize until I had reassembled everything.  Even though it looked like the traces were all nicely soldered, they weren’t.  I had a few apparently that were missed because the display wasn’t lighting up correctly.  So I suggest that you very gingerly test the instrument cluster in its current state.  You will want to hold the LCD over the backlight to protect it (perhaps even use some blue tape to hold it in place).  The LCD should still have its protective plastic sheet over it – don’t remove that yet.  Definitely do not – I repeat: do not! use the LCD cage at this point.  It may seem like a good idea but it is definitely not.  You should be able to carefully get the instrument cluster in the car and hook it up to the three connectors.  You will need to actually move the levers on the connectors to get them to engage the contacts though you don’t need to go as far as locking them in place.  Turn the car on and check to see how the display looks.  At this point, if you got the soldering right, it should look perfect.  If you got it wrong, odds are good that the display will be pretty messed up – more than just missing rows – so try moving your finger (not fingernail) over the traces and see if you can improve the display by doing that.  When you find an area that looks like it improves things, you can take the display back to the soldering iron and work on that area.  I repeated this cycle 5 times before I got the soldering done well.

13.  Not hard but critical part – alter the LCD cage and then reattach it.  The LCD cage is, I think, the key problem with the original LCD failing.  It has a piece right in the middle that bends inward toward the display.  Presumably, this is to hold things in place.  But I discovered that when I put my cage back on without modification, it created a crease in the brand new LCD ribbon.  And that crease appeared to directly correlate to a new row of dead pixels in my brand new display.  Much profanity ensued.  Removing the cage and reattaching it appeared to create another row of dead pixels.  More profanity.  It was at this point that I realized what was at fault and realized I couldn’t use the LCD cage in its current form.  It is still necessary to hold the LCD panel in place but I don’t see any reason why it has to clamp down on the ribbon so tightly.  So using metal shears I cut out the whole side of it where the ribbon cable passes through.  Then I filed the hell out of it to make sure there wasn’t a sharp edge anywhere near the ribbon cable.  This took a while but was totally worth the effort.  It’s possible that simply bending the cage’s small tab away from where the ribbon will go would be enough but since it had already done damage, I didn’t want to risk any more.  You can choose how big a modification you want to make initially – either just bending the tab or cutting away the side.  However, I strongly recommend you do at least the tab modification.  After pushing the cage back into place, I suggest you confirm that the display is working well as I described above.  And when you are ready to commit to reassembly, bend the tabs on the back of the cage to hold it in place.  (The first picture below shows the way that you would bend the tab.  The second picture shows my cage after I modified it – note the whole side is gone except for a little near the top and bottom that seemed to be out of the way of the ribbon enough.)

Pausing again from the instructions: So what did I do about the fact that my new ribbon cable was already damaged?  The profanity didn’t fix anything.  I played around with the ribbon cable while it was connected and noticed that I could get both pixel rows back if I moved the cable around.  I figured out what position would work best and I rolled up some blue tape into a sort of squishy stick and placed that under the ribbon.  That held the ribbon in the right place even when the cage was reattached.  And thus, all rows in the display now work.

(If you are like me, you are probably thinking that it would have been interesting to skip the whole effort of replacing the display and just try removing the cage and moving the ribbon around to see if you could get all the rows back.  I thought about suggesting that at the outset of this guide.  My guess is that the years of the pixel rows not working is confirmation that it is more than just a ribbon wiggle.  But if you are reading this thinking that you could try that before spending the money on a new LCD display, give it a shot and see what happens.  And let me know!)

14.  Reassemble the instrument cluster.  Basically, you will now reverse the procedure for disassembly.  Start by putting the white plastic gauge frame back on the board.  (Note to be careful where it gets close to the LCD ribbon.)  Then replace the gauge discs by fitting them over the spindle and turning appropriately.  Now put the pointers back on the same spindles they were on originally.  You want to simply push them on the spindles but be sure to push them on straight with even pressure and do not push them too far down.  You can use the pointers that you did not remove as a guide for how far down to push them.  Note that there is no indexing for the pointers so you could theoretically aim the pointer any way you want and end up with wildly inaccurate readings.  But all of the dials appear to have positive zero stops that you can use to align the pointers.  So I made an effort to not spin the spindles while the needles were off and therefore when I put the pointers back on, they were in the general ballpark of being correct.  I then turned the pointer gently counter clockwise until I hit the zero stop.  If I went to far, I turned the pointer all the way in the other direction and deliberately turned it too far, then I could turn back again the first way to reset it back to zero.  I did find a couple of dials were a little off when I powered up the instrument cluster for a test so I disconnected and adjusted.  When the dials are good, reattach the cover by pressing it through all the tabs and screw back in the two Torx screws on the back.

15.  Put the dashboard back together.  Finally an easy part.  Just push the connectors in as you probably already did for testing.  This time, make sure each of the connector’s lever locks fully into place when the connector is fully inserted.  I noticed that I needed to press extra hard on the connector furthest to the left to make sure the clock and date LCD lit up brightly – that’s weird.  Press the instrument cluster all the way back into place with your fingers and then screw back in the two screws at the bottom.  Replace the steering wheel bezel by hooking in the tab on either side and pivoting it back toward the instrument cluster.  When you do it right, you’ll hear little “pings” as it snaps into place.  Finally, raise the steering wheel back to the original driving height.

This instructable came about from a broken LCD control module out of a modern VW Camper Van. The LCD module is part of a control unit which was virtually unreadable and a replacement for a new unit was £400+. It really was a no lose option, either have a go at fixing it or end up buying a new unit.

The fault of the LCD was that it only displayed a couple lines of output on the LCD. The symptoms are caused by poor location of the LCD ribbon in manufacture and also the poor position of the whole module in the vehicle which exposes it to heat and is subject to vibration within the vehicle. This causes the ribbon to fail eventually and is a known common fault.

The ribbon in this display actually controls the Rows of the LCD matrix and the Columns were handled by a rubber standoff connection on the longest side of the LCD. There were no problems with the rubberized connection.

Some re-work on the LCD ribbon had already been tried with a little improvement but the poor registration of the ribbon pushed me to try a new attachment.

From the photos below you can see the LCD control unit and the state of the LCD ribbon before repair. You can just make out the offset placement and poor registration of the ribbon before repair.

Do not under estimate the patience required for this repair as some delicate and nimble work is required and i cannot stress how important it is to take your time and not rush.  You may only get one chance with this sort of repair.

The registrations of the LCD ribbon in this repair was difficult. It took me and my friend 20 minutes just to line up the ribbon for re-attachment. The ribbon in this case is sub 1mm pitch OR less than 25.4 thousands of an inch. You may want to try a simpler ribbon repair on an old LCD clock for example before jumping in head first with fine pitch.

Also the removal of the LCD ribbon is a delicate process as you do not want to tear what is a good ribbon or damage the carbon printed lines. Also the PCB must be respected to avoid introducing other faults and the the re-attachment may need an extra pair of hands.

You may also want to review the last step for results and lessons learned from this instructable before jumping in head first but i believe this will give a you a good insight to some important factors of LCD ribbons and possible success.

Other favorites of reworking the LCD connection that i have read here are the tinfoil on a heat gun. This has good temperature management but not so good in tight spaces. The solder iron with flat blade and tin foil is more precise but a 25 Watt iron can be too brutal on the ribbon.

In the photos below you can see the available ribbon length was generous enough but do watch for mechanical constraints. In some cases you could find yourself not being able to lay down the LCD back down as it is too tight a radius to sit down.

You do not want to pull at the ribbon as you will most likely damage what you already have. In my instance it was best to cut the ribbon free as close to the PCB pads as possible.I used a scalpel to slice parallel to the PCB board to remove the ribbon. Do make a good job of this as you may need to preserve as much extra ribbon to re-attach the LCD module.

The LCD assembly was lifted off and put in safe place to avoid damage. The ribbon was then gently lifted and peeled back with tweezers to remove the bulk. You must not use force to remove the remainder ribbon especially if your PCB is off a cheap quality OR single sided cardboard type variety. The PCB pads can come off with the ribbon! If you have a double sided PCB of FR4

The trick to get good alignment is to allow some the gold pad fingers toes of  the PCB to be visible just beyond the carbon lines of the ribbon. You then get the pads toes to line up with the carbon lines of the LCD ribbon.

The photos below show how i handled the PCB and LCD and clamped the ribbon in place. The LCD display is being held by a plastic clamp above the PCB assembly. The PCB below which has components both sides is laying on some foam (try polystyrene). This allowed me to nudge the PCB under the ribbon into position. The plastic ruler acts as a LCD ribbon clamp. When you have got the registration get a steady handed friend to hold the ruler as a ribbon clamp in place so you can then apply the heat to stick the ribbon back down.

In our case the LCD ribbon was not only glued to the PCB pads but there was some additional tape at the heel of the ribbon to hold the ribbon in place. By holding at the heel the ribbon you get some good extra mechanical support.

I did not go further with more re-work as the VW LCD module was considered a good enough result and some other time pressures intervened. It was concluded that we could read the display well enough and operate items from the controller. It was also considered as one of those quit while your ahead things!

The technique for LCD ribbon removal and re-attachment are achievable certainly on simpler ribbons and fine pitch ribbons with careful preparation and thought. I hope this instructable is comprehensive enough for people to get some good results.

The other end of the ribbon that joins to the LCD is terminated on the glass on Indium tin oxide (ITO) which is one of the most widely used transparent conducting oxides.

If you want more information there are many different types of LCM assemby (LCD Display plus it driving chips) to look at but these are the main ones (increasing in density):

In manufacture of these modules a machine is used for assembly which would compress HSC to the LCD Or the PCB and then apply the correct amount of heat.

very nice and complicated work but...my question is, where can I find a ribbon cable like this? I have a keyboard Technics KN2000 with a display not working because the cable was disconnected from both the glass display and the circuit board. Thank You!

Attached is a picture of a screen from a Brookstone clock. I think it may be an LCD. The black pads show where a ribbon cable was connected and I see not transmission paths from the pads into the screen. How does this work? Is it really an LCD?

Are the paths in this ribbon cable covered on both sides as mine is and can you adhere the ribbon without removing any covering by applying heat? And what do I do on the LCD side where there appears to be no pads on the LCD but the ribbon cable was apparently applied in this manner?0

I have two items to add, kapton tape and sil-pads used to isolate heat-sinks from semiconductor devices. With kapton tape it brings the means to secure the ribbon to the board, place the tape over the whole connection area, and kapton resists heat very well, ( try and melt it with your soldering iron). This means an average soldering iron turned down will allow heat to be applied to each joint. With experience a rework can be done in a few minutes. The bond can also be renewed on the LCD glass as well, kapton also works here. Sil-pads allow heat to be passed to the joint with some pressure applied at the same time. The sil-pad can be dragged up and down all the ribbon connections allowing uniform heating. Once the bond is resurrected the sil-pad is discarded. http://goo.gl/mpZNkm0

I just thought the same way, adding aLCD flat connector... then you can swap chinese or VDO oem screens. Seems the VDO LCD(as for Audi A3-Vw golf/jetta4) have 50 pins and the ribbons is 48mm width. Then you have to look to modify the metal bracket to avoid pressure on ribbon.

i have an alarm clock which doesn"t have a ribbon, but instead some sort of rubbery contact strip against which the display should be pressed. You can find pics of it on google images for "lcd rubber contact strip", it seems to be called a zebra rubber. Any idea on how to glue/solder the display to that rubbery contact strip?More CommentsPost Comment

There are some rare cases that the cluster may be not repairable. If that"s the case, we will either issue you a full refund or source out a replacement cluster and transfer the mileage and vin data (you will be responsible for the replacement cost).

It all started in the summer of 2020, when I bought an Audi TT 2002. Unlike my previous cars, it didn’t have a digital speedometer in the instrument cluster’s little LCD-display (Driver Information System DIS in Audi). Due to the lack of digital speedometer, I decided to implement it myself. To cut a long story short, I thought I could take advantage of existing GitHub-project[1]and wrote the code for that setup first. Though I soon realized the setup used in the existing project was different to mine, so I had to start it all over.

Audi TT"s DIS-display shows the radio station or the CD-track in the upmost third of the display. My plan was to replace the radio info with digital speedometer. From the previously mentionedprojectI found out that the radio sends information to the instrument cluster via three one-way data wires. When I pulled my radio out, I found out that my radio didn"t use these three wires, but CAN bus instead.

Before I tapped into CAN bus with Arduino, my plan was to acquire the vehicle speed signal from the radio"s GALA-wire (Graduated Audio Level Adjustment). GALA increases radio volume automatically according to vehicle speed. Since my car has CAN bus, there is no need for GALA-wire and the instrument cluster sends vehicle speed data on the bus every 200 ms. I"m used these CAN-messages in my digital speedometer solution.

I found Audi CAN bus message identifier list onCanhack.de[7] and I found the IDs for the first and second text line of the DIS. I also discovered the ID for vehicle speed information ontxboard.de[8].

0x635radio illumination (length: 3 bytes; from left to right: radio display backlight, radio buttons backlight, (?); (dimmest 0x0 - brightest 0x64)

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Audi is presenting the latest evolution stage of its MMI operating concepts with the MMI touch response. Following the premiere in the fourth generation of the Audi A8 (2017) it is now being incorporated into other model lines. The central element is the 10.1-inch touch display in black panel technology. When not in use, the screen blends almost invisibly into the high-gloss black faceplate of the instrument panel. When starting the system, the user interface appears with its concise graphics. With a resolution of 1,540 x 720 pixels, the TFT screen provides pin-sharp images and high contrast, even when viewed from an angle. The large display is used for controlling navigation, media and vehicle functions. The driver can click, swipe, zoom and scroll on it. The menu structure including the search functions is intuitive and flat, like that of a modern smartphone.

The key strength of the MMI touch response technology is its haptic feedback. When a finger touches the display glass, it does not immediately activate a function – a gentle push with a defined pressure is required to do that. The mechanical pulse that the driver feels as confirmation feedback is created by an electromagnet that shifts the spring-mounted display very slightly sideways – by roughly the width of a human hair. At the same time a small loudspeaker emits a click sound.

A second display on the console of the center tunnel is used to operate the air conditioning system and convenience features. The driver can save preferred functions as favorites. The display has an 8.6-inch diagonal and a screen resolution of 1,280 x 660 pixels. Since the driver’s wrist rests on the transmission’s gear selector knob, the display can be operated very comfortably. The driver can also enter text – either via a digital keyboard (when the vehicle is stationary) or by innovative handwriting recognition which can recognize entire words in handwriting as well as letters handwritten on top of one another. Audible feedback is given for each recognized letter, so that the driver can always keep his or her eyes focused on the road.

The surfaces of the two displays have a type of anti-fingerprint coating. This makes it easy to wipe off fingerprints. There is also an anti-glare layer that refracts the reflected light. This blurs the reflections so they do not distract the driver. The top layer is toughened, making it very sturdy and scratch-resistant.

A dashboard (also called dash, instrument panel (IP), or fascia) is a control panel set within the central console of a vehicle or small aircraft. Usually located directly ahead of the driver (or pilot), it displays instrumentation and controls for the vehicle"s operation. An electronic equivalent may be called an electronic instrument cluster, digital instrument panel, digital dash, digital speedometer or digital instrument cluster.

With the advent of the VFD, LED and LCD in consumer electronics, some manufacturers used instruments with digital readouts to make their cars appear more up to date. Some cars use a head-up display to project the speed of the car onto the windscreen in imitation of fighter aircraft, but in a far less complex display.

In an automobile, an electronic instrument cluster, digital instrument panel or digital dash for short, is a set of instrumentation, including the speedometer, that is displayed with a digital readout rather than with the traditional analog gauges. Many refer to it either simply as a digital speedometer or a digital instrument cluster.

The first application of an electronic instrument cluster, in a production automobile, was in the 1976 Aston Martin Lagonda. The first American manufacturer application was the 1978 Cadillac Seville with available Cadillac Trip Computer. In the United States they were an option in many motor vehicles manufactured in the 1980s and 1990s, and were standard on some luxury vehicles at times, including some models made by Cadillac, Chrysler and Lincoln. They included not only a speedometer with a digital readout, but also a trip computer that displayed factors like the outdoor temperature, travel direction, fuel economy and distance to empty (DTE). In 1983, the Renault 11 Electronic was the first European hatchback to have a digital dashboard.Oldsmobile Toronado, Buick Riviera and Buick Reatta.

Digital units received information from a variety of sensors installed throughout the engine and transmission, while traditional analog units were attached to a cable that provided information from the transmission. Modern analog displays receive information in the same manner as the digital units, with very few manufacturers still using the speedometer cable method.

Most digital speedometers have had green numbers displayed on a dark green or black background. The 8th and 9th generation Honda Civic have a "two-tier" instrument panel. The upper digital dashboard with white numbers against a blue screen (the latter of which changes to green according to driving habits), digital fuel and temperature gauges. The lower dashboard has an analog tachometer and digital odometer. The 10th and present generation saw the two-tier design replaced with a single instrument panel, which in higher tiers is a fully digital and partially customizable design.

Vehicle instruments have been augmented by software-powered display panels conveying information on display panels. Digital instruments present data in the form of numeric parameters, textual messages, or graphical gauges. Unlike the electro-mechanical instrument clusters of the past, these interactive displays are much more versatile and flexible.

Toyota is using electronic instruments for showing the cars parameters for its Yaris/Vitz model, the car employs a vacuum fluorescent display to indicate the speed, RPM, fuel level, odometer, etc.

The 2009 Lexus LFA was one of the first cars to utilize a modern LCD screen. Lexus claimed a digital speedometer was required since an analogue tachometer wouldn"t be able to keep up with the rev changes of the car"s engine.

The third generation Range Rover (L322) also introduced the first use and largest TFT LCD displays used on a production luxury SUV for the facelifted 2010, and end of the cycle model.

In 2014, Audi launched virtual cockpit" on Audi TT, and has later introduced it to several other models. The technology has been developed Finnish company Rightware, using its Kanzi software suite.

Electronic instrument clusters are being increasingly common features on railway vehicles, in which individual instruments are replaced by various forms of digital readouts. Early uses of instrument clusters often employed LEDs to display analog-type or numeric readings for pressure gauges, electrical gauges, and other displays. They have been increasingly integrated with various cab signalling systems and together with the installation of multi-function displays, have simplified the cab layout and improved user interaction with the engineer.

"An idiosyncratic review of the 2011 Range Rover Autobiography – Intro & Part 1: TFT-LCD Instrument Cluster #rangerover". OVALNEWS.com - Always fanatical; Occasionally interesting Land Rover & Range Rover News. 2011-02-25. Retrieved 2022-10-13.

Federal Railroad Administration (July 2005). "Information in Cab Displays for High-Speed Locomotives" (PDF). U.S. Department of Transportation. Retrieved March 18, 2017.

Sunlight causes the LCD polarizing filters to fade, which causes the information on the cluster to disappear. The LCD panels should appear black while the cluster is off. If you can see the colored info when the cluster is off, the polarizing film has faded and should be replaced. Click Here to buy.

13) Inspect the polarizing filters on the LCD panels. If you see a fade ring around the edges, consider replacing the polarizing filters on the LCD panels. Now is the time to do that repair.  Click Here to purchase.

15) If the black paint on the back of the LCD panels has worn through, light will shine through the panel in areas other than the places it should. Use black enamel acrylic paint designed for glass and a small paint brush to repaint that area. Note that we supply the correct paint and a brush if you purchase our LCD Polarizing Film kit. Be careful to avoid areas near the factory graphics, and in the areas of the LCD segments!

If your cluster displays randomly flickering LCD segments along with intermittent backlighting, the onboard power supply (Fig 1) may need to be rebuilt. We sell a kit of parts to replace commonly needed components - Click Here

If your Logic Pro project has a lot of audio tracks, software instruments, or plug-ins, you might get a system overload alert that interrupts playback or recording. System overloads can occur when your Mac doesn"t have enough processing power to play back or record audio. Use the techniques in this article to avoid system overloads.

I/O Buffer Size: Increase the I/O buffer size, up to a maximum of 256 samples. The I/O buffers temporarily store audio data before sending it to other destinations on your Mac. Increasing the I/O buffer size reduces the load on the CPU of your Mac. However, larger I/O buffer sizes increase latency when recording.

To avoid latency and system overload alerts, decrease the I/O buffer size when recording, then increase it when mixing. If you"re recording audio and not software instruments, you can monitor your audio directly from the source. Choose Logic Pro > Settings (or Preferences) > Audio > General, and deselect Software Monitoring. You can then set the I/O buffer size to 256 samples and leave it there for both recording and mixing.Process Buffer Range: Set this option to Large. As with the I/O buffers, higher settings increase latency.

Projects with higher sample rates create larger audio files, which can increase the load on the CPU and disk. Plug-ins also require more CPU power to process audio files at higher sample rates. When choosing the sample rate for your project, balance the considerations of audio quality, the anticipated format of the final product, and the performance of your Mac. If disk activity is causing system overload alerts, try choosing lower sample rates for your projects.

When mixing, make sure to select an Audio track or an External MIDI track, not a Software Instrument track. Select a Software Instrument track only when you"re actively working on it. If your project includes Track Stacks, make sure no Software Instrument sub-tracks are selected.

Adjust the following settings:Active:If most of your system overload alerts coincide with peaks in the Processing Threads meters, select this option. If the alerts coincide with peaks in the Drive I/O meter, deselect it. When you turn on Sampler virtual memory, only the initial attacks of audio samples are loaded into the computer RAM; the rest of the sample is streamed in real-time from the hard drive.

Buffer Range pop-up menu:This setting determines the size of the buffer used for processing audio samples. You can choose between Small, Medium, and Large buffer sizes.

Host Disk Activity pop-up menu: If your projects include very few audio tracks, select Less. If your projects include a lot of audio tracks, select Average or Extensive.