laptop lcd panel raspberry pi made in china

there is no controller needed, every single laptop LCD panel from ~10 years old was parallel. Then we got LVDS. Laptop screens from ~7(?) years ago have LVDS deserializer chip on the Tcon pcb (DS90C562/SN75LVDS86), you can desolder that and connect directly to parallel bus. Never screens integrated Flatlink(lvds) receiver inside main lcd driver chip.

LVDS is just serialized parallel video. Serializer chips are ~$5 in singles on Mouser. Combining Pee DPI output with SN75LVDS84 ($2.5 if you order 10 from china) will allow you to connect any modern <=1366x768 resolution (single lvds channel limit) Laptop LCD screen. Those can be free if you have a broken laptop. You could even drive older "HDReady" 32" TV LCD with pee this way.

The Raspberry Pi always attracts compatible third-party hardware and its new keyboard computer, the Raspberry Pi 400, is now available with touchscreen displays to make a complete system.

The Raspberry Pi 400 is a Chinese-made keyboard top with UK-made insides, including a Raspberry Pi 4 with 4GB of RAM, USB ports, a GPIO header, HDMI ports, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth.

The Pi 400 alone costs $70, but there"s also the $100 Raspberry Pi 400 Personal Computer Kit, which includes the Raspberry Pi 400, a USB mouse and USB-C power supply, a micro SD card with Raspberry Pi OS pre-installed, and a micro HDMI cable for the display.

The kit is almost complete except for a display. But, as spotted by CNX-Software, Shenzhen-based electronics seller Waveshare is now offering its own Pi 400 Personal Computer Kit bundle with a choice of two touchscreen displays.

The Raspberry Pi 400 Kit with a seven-inch HDMI touch display is available for $180. It"s an IPS display with a resolution of 1,024 x 600 pixels, a toughened glass cover, and five-point capacitive touch. It connects to the Pi 400 with an HDMI port but lacks a speaker.

The larger display option costs $267 and comes with a 13.3-inch display with a resolution of 1,920 x 1,080 pixels, 10-point capacitive touch and an embedded speaker. It also includes a separate power supply, whereas the smaller one runs off the power supply from the keyboard. Both displays include a kick stand but are only available with a UK keyboard for the moment.

The two display options push the Pi 400 towards laptop-like mobility, but since the computer lacks a battery, it can"t be considered as mobile as a laptop. Still, it is a more mobile way of configuring the Pi 400 than a desktop display and could help, say, students move the device between school and home.

ZDNet asked Raspberry Pi Trading whether it is planning to make a full Raspberry Pi laptop but the answer for now is that it"s focused on meeting demand for the keyboard in more languages.

Mukesh 15.6 Inch Portable with High-Resolution large screen, easy setup, and travel-ready! Act as a useful external monitor, and it comes with a foldable “smart case” that protects the screen. It serves as a prop in landscape and portrait modes that also acts as a holder, the necessary cables (USB c for charging, USB c for video, HDMI), charging block, plastic screen protector. This monitor’s uses are endless and are a great lightweight replacement for your laptop. Great product with lots of uses.

Featuring micro-HDMI interfaces makes the monitor compatible with many devices with HDMI ports, like laptops, cameras, desktop computers, Switch/PS4/ PS3/ XBOX, etc. In addition, the monitor gets powered via USB through the Xbox, and you can play Xbox anywhere with literally one cord to the plugin.

I"ve got an 15.6" TFT-LCD screen and a Raspberry Pi B+ board. The serial number of the screen is B156XW02 V2 and the manifacturer is AU Optronics Corporation (Datasheet: http://www.yslcd.com.tw/docs/product/B156XW02%20V.2.pdf). As you can read at page 18 and 19 of the datasheet, the screen has a 40pin connector. There is a way to connect it to the pi? Perhaps through the DSI connector or via HDMI...

You could either buy a ready-made LVDS-HDMI interface board as already suggested, or if you are adventurous you could look at the possibilities of Gert"s B+ VGA interface http://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewt ... 00&t=86658

It takes up all of the GPIO pins on the B+ and with a bit of tweaking, and a couple of additional connections, can drive some laptop screens directly. With the spec sheet you have for that display you appear to have the full pinout, which is very useful

The remote solutions (VNC or RDP, SSH), require a working laptop/computer or device running Windows, MAC or Linux. Both the remote computer and the RPi need to be connected to the same local network by Ethernet or WIFI.

Actually, thinking about it, it"s not the adaptor as such, so the price isn"t important (about £6 on kickstarter for a kit), but the GPIO configuration it uses for which the software is being included in the standard builds. The VGA adapter works by connecting to an interface that was designed to directly drive LVDS displays. There"s just a couple of additional pins that need configuring and connecting (the DNC HAT ID pins).

I"m not aware of any guide yet, but there is discussion of it in the thread I linked to earlier, starting about here http://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewt ... 50#p615414

Since the day I heard about and got to play with the Raspberry Pi one a few years ago I"ve wanted to make a Raspberry Pi powered laptop out of it and now with the rease of the Raspberry Pi three I"ve decided to finally see it through. Now this isn"t my first time attempting to make a fully working laptop using a Raspberry Pi, every other time I"ve tried the project has been riddled with errors with anything from broken ribbon cables to figuring out the hinge mechanism however I"ve been able to learn from these failures and I hope to show you how to avoid them when making your own. So lets get started!

Before we can start choosing and buying the parts we are going to be using we need to figure out everything we want our laptop to be able to do, for example I want my laptop to have:integrated mouse (trackpad)

Since we are using the Pi 3 we dont have to worry about buying a Wifi or Bluetooth dongle because it has it all integrated. Now this list is by no means exclusive, there are many other things that can be added to make this a better laptop however I think the features im adding will give it some awesome usability such as the integrated Arduino powered battery reader which will be a small OLED screen next to the main screen which will permanently show the battery percent and voltage, another feature I really like is the integrated Arduino with headers, this is basically an Arduino with male headers soldered to it, there are small holes cut in the case that allow the user to access the male pins and plug in components, so all this really is just an Arduino built into the laptop so we always have an Arduino handy.

Lets start with our PI and screen, our screen doesn"t connect to our Pi through the HDMI port but rather through a 50 pin ribbon cable that plugs into the Pis GPIO however if you just plug it in and start up the Pi it won"t work, we need to edit some lines of code in the startup file for the Pi.

We start this by downloading a fresh Raspbian image Here, then we write it to our SD card using 7Zip (or whatever software works for you). Now once its written we need to open a file on the SD card called config.txt and add some code. What this code does is tell the Pi to send the screen data through the GPIO headers rather than the HDMI port (HDMI is the default) on startup. Putting the code in is really easy. Open the config.txt with a notepad program, for windows i"m using notepad ++, and copy this code into the config.txt file now save and close and it should work once the SD card is plugged back into the Pi. If it looks too bright or too dim turn the little petentiomoter on the screen circuit board until it looks right.

Our Pi also needs to physical modification to fit inside our case properly we are going to have to desolder one of the duel usb ports, this is done by putting a fairly large amount of solder on the pins of the USB connector and slowly rocking it back and forth until it becomes free. We do this because we need to solder a usb hub to the Pi to plug in all of our input devices.

Our battery uses 3 18650 batteries that have a capacity of 2400 mAh each, in parallel the 3 cells have a total capacity of 7200 mAh, our pi with everything plugged in draws around 1 Amp meaning our 3 cells can power the pi for roughly 4.5 - 5 hours but this can be increased by adding more batteries if you want. To build it we need to charge all 3 cells all the way up to 4.2 volts individually as connecting lithium cells is very dangerous if they have different charge states (different voltages) to avoid this its easiest to make sure they are all fully charged before connecting them.

Now to set up the battery display, this step is defiantly not that necessary as you could read the battery voltage through the Pis GPIO and display the battery level through software, however, I wanted to add this because I think the OLED screen gives the whole laptop a really cool DIY look. To make it we need to solder our OLED screen to our Arduino, the OLED im using is not an SPI version so I have to solder 7 pins to the Arduino.

Before we can upload our code we have to make our voltage probes which will connect the Arduino to the battery and allow it to read the batteries voltage we need to solder 2 10 ohm resistors in a voltage divider configuration (see photos) to the A0 and Ground pins on the Arduino which can then be connected to the battery, A0 goes to positive and Ground goes to Ground. We also need a power source for our screen so we need to solder another wire to ground and one to VIN on the Arduino which we will connect to the power bank circuit later for power.

Lastly our internal Arduino will need to have headers soldered onto all of its pins, its easiest to do this by putting these pins and the Arduino onto a breadboard and then soldering them in place as this will keep them straight, then we just get another micro USB cable to connect the Arduino to the USB hub. Now everything is set up so we can start putting things together!

We start by connecting the USB hub to one of the two USBs that we desoldered earlier, the second USB is then soldered to a female USB port which is placed on the other side of the laptop using some long wires, now solder the track-pad, Keyboard and internal Arduino to the USB hub. Next we solder the 5 volt output of our power bank circuit to the 5 volt input on the raspberry pi using a micro USB cable or even the dedicated 5 volt and ground solder pad that can be found under the Pi.

This is everything for the base now we can move onto the screen half there are only 2 parts in our screen, the main screen and battery display, all we need to do is connect the 50 pin ribbon cable to the main screen and to the 50 pin connector on the raspberry pi. Next we need to run 3 long cables from from the Arduino battery display, these are the battery read and power cables which we spoke about earlier, the cable connected to pin A0 get connected to the positive connection on the battery, the VIN pin gets connected to 5 volt output on the power bank circuit and ground goes to ground.

Of course at some point we might want to turn this off so we are going to add a switch in between the ground connection from the power bank to the raspberry pi which allows us to completely cut power to the system. I do need to note that just cutting power to the raspberry pi is bad for it so preforming a software power down before cutting power is ideal, this can be done by just clicking shut down in the raspberry pi options.

Now unfortunately i don"t have a 3D printer but we can make a very sturdy and nice looking (my opinion) case from some malleable plastic and cardboard. The idea behind this is that the walls of the case will be made of a cardboard with the malleable plastic being used inside the case to keep everything together and make it sturdier. the key to doing this is measuring out the sizes of cardboard needed and cutting it out, the cardboard is then glued together with super glue, using hot glue at this point often leaves a visible lines which looks very ugly, the best think to do is put the pieces together using super glue and the reinforce it with hot glue on the inside followed by a layer of the malleable plastic. Ive left the dimensions for my case here if you choose to go this route however if you have a 3D printer i do think that is the neater options (let me see how it turns out in the comments!).

Weirdly enough I found this part of the project to be the hardest even though it seems like such an easy part. What we need to do is get a very stiff hinge, I know its easier said than done but a good place to start looking is in old laptops or screen, you can find these for next to nothing at ewaiste facilities. once you have your hinge make a notch of the bottom of the screen and in the top of the base and full these notches with the malleable plastic I spoke about earlier. Now while its still warm and malleable begin pushing the hinge into it and secure it in place, because this stuff dries so hard there will be no issues with the hinge ever coming loose. If you make a mistake a hairdryer can be used to re melt the protoplatic and it can then be reshaped or removed.

While making this project I ran into quite a few issues that slowed me down or could have costed me a lot of money, the first and most annoying was the ribbon cable. Ribbon cables aren"t designed to be plugged in and unplugged many times and unfortunately this is something I do a lot of while testing which actually broke mine from wear and tear (i ordered a new one) so make sure to be very careful with it. Another thing that annoyed me while testing this laptop was that I kept uploading code to the wrong internal Arduino! in the base we have 2 Arduinos plugged into the raspberry pi the first is the one controlling the trackpad and the second one is the Arduino we installed to used as an internal Arduino, the annoyance arises when I accidentally upload my sketch to the track-pad Arduino rather than the Arduino I wanted to upload it to, this of course messes with our track-pad making it unusable until we upload its code again so just make sure you know which Arduino is which in the Arduino IDE.

With all of that being said i have to say this isnt a very challenging project as there was minimal code required and the people over at the Raspberry Pi foundation have made the process of getting the Pi set up and working really easy.

At this point the laptop is fully functional, i"ve been using mine almost everyday for taking notes, it works great for this as the Raspbian OS comes with libraoffice so using this as a school or work laptops is a really good idea. It also connects to WiFi and Bluetooth networks really easily making watching YouTube and other webpages really easy and to make it even better there are lots and lots of games that will run on the raspberry pi with anything from minecraft to classic old NES games making great fun with a long battery life. Overall this is a really fun project and I really recommend trying it.

Awesome build here! A tip that might be useful is that you can find a perfectly-sized box if you go to your local Tiger store. They sell some mini pool-table sets for £3 which if you disassemble and remove the green pool surface you end up with a hollow shell which is perfect for what is being built here. I am trying to work on incorporating an active cooling system so I can overclock this laptop. Well done though!0

Can you please make the same battery display with a 4pin 128X32 display (I have attached the picture of one)and an arduino nano ...as the one you used was overpriced and I want something small for my design...

My Dell Studio 1557 laptop died some time back in early 2014. It started conking out a few months earlier, but I managed to “heat-gun” the GPU into submission and it worked for a few more months. My wife had an identical machine, bought at the same time, which lasted a year longer.

The driver board I bought came from Ali Express. It’s no longer available, but I’m sure you could find one if you wanted to. In any case, your LCD will probably be a different part number.

Lots of people throw away dead laptops now, but often the screens are perfectly fine. If you want to bag yourself a gorgeous screen for your Raspberry Pi, DSLR, Video camera or any other computer I’d recommend you give it a shot. Do be aware that you are not guaranteed a result (that’s why I bought one driver board first, then another when I knew it worked).

This is something I did that brought me a lot of pleasure and I regularly use one of these in my workshop as a video monitor and with Raspberry Pi. So I thought I’d share it with the world. If it works out for you, you can really get an awful lot of screen for your money. Certainly more than any screen you can buy new.

Also, be aware that you will have to either sort out your own case or frame for it. For us hacker types that can often be a plus rather than a minus. I just kept the really useful mounting frame on the LCD and hung it from a shelf at the perfect height for my use.

CrowPi2 is is a huge step up in ambition. The touchscreen is replaced with a full IPS display, keyboard, and a trackpad with mouse combo, turning the CrowPi learning environment into a laptop.

If you or your kids ever wanted to use Raspberry Pi to create cool projects, learn how to code, program games, or conduct scientific experiments, then the CrowPi2 may be the perfect learning platform for you.

The CrowPi2 is an affordable Raspberry Pi laptop with plenty of built-in electronic modules at an affordable price. The software platform is polished, allowing jumping into experiments with a minimum of fuss.

The CrowPi2 Raspberry Pi laptop is a great device for children and adults to learn the capabilities of a Raspberry Pi through a bunch of coding languages.

CrowPi2 may very well be the ultimate solution for those that love to tinker with single board computers (SBCs), programming and electronics. It has many built-in sensors and lessons that will teach you AI, vision systems, Python, Scratch, and much more.

A“STEAM learning platform” that consists of a screen, a built-in Raspberry Pi, and a large breadboard like I/O system that lets you run experiments and test components using a wireless keyboard and mouse. It’s just like those 100-in-1 electronics kits you probably had as a kid, but far more powerful.

CrowPi is great as an easy way to access your device, but you will find that a keyboard is essential to make the most of your device. The colors from the screen are good and the touch screen seems very responsive, making it good for dealing with interfaces.

The CrowPi 2 improves upon the original CrowPi in every conceivable way. The keyboard is integrated into the machine with a clever design that hides or reveals the wired electronics at will. The Pi is easier to install or swap out, and its microSD card is a snap to get to.

As the trickle of Raspberry Pi slowly becomes a stream in 2023, you now have a better chance of securing a Raspberry Pi for as little as $5 (for the Raspberry Pi Zero) or more likely from $35 (for the Raspberry Pi 41GB), you"ll need a few extra products to make the most of it. There"s a whole world of accessories that help you make the most of the Raspberry Pi"s GPIO. There are accessories which have been around since the Raspberry Pi was released, when it had just 26 GPIO pins. Every week it seems that there are new accessories for our favorite single board computer. Using special addon boards (HATs) we can take advantage of the Raspberry Pi"s now standard 40 pin GPIO to control and interact with electronic components and create diverse projects such as robotics, machine learning and IoT and even our own home server.

As with any computer, you’ll need a way to enter data and a way to see the interface, which usually means getting a keyboard, a mouse and a monitor. However, you can opt for a headless Raspberry Pi install, which allows you to remote control the Pi from your PC. In that case, the minimum requirements are:microSD card of at least 8GB, but the best Raspberry Pi microSD cards have 32GB or more. When you first set up a Raspberry Pi, you need to “burn” the OS onto it by using a PC, another Raspberry Pi or even a phone with microSD card reader.Power supply:For the Raspberry Pi 4, you need a USB-C power source that provides at least 3 amps / 5 volts, but for other Raspberry Pis, you need a micro USB connection that offers at least 2.5 amps and the same 5 volts. Your power supply provides power to both the Pi and any attached HATs and USB devices, so always look for supplies that can provide a higher amperage at 5 volts as this will give you a little headroom to safely power your projects.

In addition, there are a number of accessory and add-on types that protect your Pi, add new features and make everything a lot more useful and fun. These include:Cases: The best Raspberry Pi cases give you style, functionality and durability.

The top overall choice on our round-up of the best Raspberry Pi Cases, the Argon Neo combines great looks with plenty of flexibility and competent passive cooling. This mostly-aluminum (bottom is plastic) case for the Raspberry Pi 4 features a magnetic cover that slides off to provide access to the GPIO pins with enough clearance to attach a HAT, along with the ability to connect cables to the camera and display ports. The microSD card slot, USB and micro HDMI out ports are easy to access at all times.

It doesn"t come cheap, but the official Raspberry Pi High Quality camera offers the best image quality of any Pi camera by far, along with the ability to mount it on a tripod. The 12-MP camera doesn"t come with a lens, but supports any C or CS lens, which means you can choose from an entire ecosystem of lenses, with prices ranging from $16 up to $50 or more and a variety of focal lengths and F-stop settings. We tested the High Quality camera with two lenses, one designed for close up shots, the other for more distant, the image quality was a massive improvement over the standard Raspberry Pi camera.

If you need a Raspberry Pi camera, but don"t want to spend more than $50 on the high quality module and then have to bring your own lens, the official Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2 is the one to get. This 8-MP camera uses a Sony IMX219 sensor that gives it really solid image quality, records video at up 1080p, 30 fps and is a big improvement over the 5-MP OmniVision OV5647 that was in the V1 camera.

Whether you want to control your Raspberry Pi from the couch or you have it on a table and don"t want to waste space, getting one of the best wireless keyboards is a good idea. It"s particularly helpful to have a wireless keyboard with a pointing device so you don"t need to also drag around a mouse.

Lenovo"s ThinkPad TrackPoint Keyboard II is the best keyboard for Raspberry Pi thanks to its excellent key feel, multiple connectivity options and built-in TrackPoint pointing stick. The keyboard looks and types just like those on Lenovo"s ThinkPad line of business laptops, offering plenty of tactile feedback and a deep (for a non-mechanical), 1.8mm of key travel. The TrackPoint pointing stick sits between the G and H keys, allowing you to navigate around the Raspberry Pi"s desktop, without even lifting your hands off of the home row.

If you"re going to use a Raspberry Pi 4, you need a USB-C power supply that offers at least 3 amps of juice with a 5-volt output. We"ve found that the best USB-C laptop chargers are capable of delivering this kind of power (albeit often with 4.8 - 4.9 volts, which still works), but if you don"t have a powerful charger handy or need one just for your Pi, the official Raspberry Pi power supply is your best choice.

Rated for 5.1 volts at 3 amps, the official Raspberry Pi 4 power supply has good build quality and a nice design. Available in black or white, it"s a small rectangle, emblazoned with the Raspberry Pi logo and a strong, built-in Type-C cable that"s 59 inches (1.5m) long. Unlike some third-party competitors, it doesn"t come with an on / off switch, but it is compatible with cheap on / off adapters you can attach to the end. You may find competitors for a few dollars less, but the official Raspberry Pi 4 power supply is a sure thing.

The Raspberry Pi"s 40 GPIO pins are arguably its most important feature. Using these pins (see our GPIO pinout(opens in new tab)), you can attach an entire universe of electronics, including motors, sensors and lights. There"s a huge ecosystem of add-on boards, appropriately called HATs (hardware attached on top) that plug directly into the GPIO pins and matching the same layout as the Pi. These add on boards give you all kinds of added functionality, from LED light matrixes to touch screens and motor controllers for robotics projects.

If you"re using a Raspberry Pi 4, you definitely need some kind of cooling, whether it"s a heat sink, an aluminum with passive cooling built in or, best of all, a fan. The Pimoroni Fan Shim is powerful, easy-to-install and unobtrusive. You just push it down onto the left most side of your GPIO pin header and it does a fantastic job of cooling your Pi. You can even use a Pimoroni Fan Shim on a Raspberry Pi 4 that"s been overclocked all the way to 2.1 GHz, without seeing any throttling.

Unless you"ve specifically configured yours to boot from an SSD (see our article on How to Boot Raspberry Pi from USB), every Raspberry Pi uses a microSD card as its primary storage drive. We maintain a list of the Best microSD cards for Raspberry Pi and have chosen the 32GB Silicon Power 3D NAND card as the top choice.

Unless you"re hosting a media server or have a ridiculous amount of ROMS on a game emulator, a 32GB microSD card provides more than enough storage for Raspberry Pi OS and a ton of applications. The operating system and preloaded applications take up far less than 8GB by themselves.

Each of the Raspberry Pi"s 40 GPIO pins has a different function so it"s hard to keep track of which does what. For example, some of the pins provide I2C communication while others offer power and others are just for grounding. You can look at a GPIO pinout guide such as ours, but sometimes it"s just easier to put the list of functions right on top of the pins.

While most of the earlier Raspberry Pi models have a single, full-size HDMI port, the Raspberry Pi 4 has dual micro HDMI ports that can each output to a monitor at up to 4K resolution. While there"s a good chance you already have one or more HDMI cables lying around the house, most of us don"t have micro HDMI cables, because it"s a rarely used connector.

You can use your Raspberry Pi as a game emulator, a server or a desktop PC, but the real fun begins when you start connecting electronics to its GPIO pins. Of course, to even get started playing with GPIO connectors, you need some interesting things to connect to them such as lights, sensors and resistors (see resistor color codes).

In order to write Raspberry Pi OS (or a different OS) to a microSD card, you"ll need some kind of microSD card reader that you can attach to your PC. Just about any make or model will do as long as it reads SDHC and SDXC cards and, preferably, connects via USB 3.0. I"ve been using the Jahovans X USB 3.0 card reader, which currently goes for $5.99, for almost a year now and it has worked really well.

TheRaspberry Pi 400’s big feature is that it is a Raspberry Pi 4 inside of a keyboard. This new layout introduced a challenge, the GPIO is now on the rear of the case, breaking compatibility with Raspberry Pi HATs but with the Flat HAT Hacker we can restore the functionality and delve into a rich world of first and third party add ons for robotics, science projects and good old blinking LEDs! In our review we found that the board is easy to install, and requires no additional software. If you have a Raspberry Pi 400, this is a no brainer purchase.

Whether you"re shopping for one of the best Raspberry Pi accessories or one that didn"t quite make our list, you may find savings by checking out the latest SparkFun promo codes, Newegg promo codes, Amazon promo codes or Micro Center coupons.Round up of today"s best deals

Edit 1/1/2019: Since this answer continues to be popular, going to incorporate a change per bigjosh"s comment. Around April 2017, Raspbian introduced a security change that no longer starts the SSH server by default (see this blog post). To enable the SSH server on boot, create a file named ssh on the boot partition of the Pi"s SD card prior to trying these instructions.

On first boot, the Pi will actually start an SSH server available on the ethernet port. But, it"s pretty much inaccessible if the Pi does not have an IP address. By default, it does not. It will activate a DHCP client to contact a router for an IP. Plugging the ethernet from the Pi into the computer will cause the Pi to ask for an IP. By default, consumer computers do not respond to this query. The first step is to activate a DHCP server on the computer. For my setup, I used dnsmasq installed in a Debian virtual machine that I had created for another project. The VM is not required, as dnsmasq will run just fine on a Mac (installable from MacPorts or source) or Linux computer natively. I believe there are some DHCP servers that run on Windows, but I am not sure. You could also plug the Pi into a wireless router with the same effect, except you wouldn"t have to set up an DHCP server because almost all consumer wireless routers have this built in (you can probably skip the next paragraph if you are using a router).

Once the DHCP server is running, connect the Pi to the computer"s ethernet and power it up. In the log file/console output, you should see something like this:

Explanation and what we"re looking for here: The first two lines are my laptop (Maxwell) connecting to the DHCP server. Since the laptop recognizes the DHCP server, it requests an IP that it has had in the past: 10.37.27.137. This can be confirmed by looking at the network settings of your computer (for me, it showed up in System Preferences / Network in OS X). The DHCP server then gives my computer it"s requested IP since it"s not a conflict (DHCPACK, dhcp-ack[nowledgement]). The next three four are related to the Pi: It first sends a DHCPDISCOVER to find any DHCP servers (if any). Dnsmasq then offers it a new IP. The Pi accepts it (DHCPREQUEST), and then the server confirms the IP in its database and actually gives the IP to the Pi. I know I"ve found the right entry because the final hostname listed in the DHCPACK is "raspberrypi". Make a note of the IP address that the DHCP server gave the Pi (mine is 10.79.26.148).

If you connected the Pi to a router instead of a computer, look in the router"s web interface for a list of DHCP clients, or a list of computers connected to the network. Most routers have this somewhere, even if they don"t all call it the same thing. Look for a computer named "raspberrypi", and make a note of its IP address.

Once you have an IP for the Pi, you can connect to it with the SSH client of your choice. For Mac/Linux/UNIX, you can just open a terminal and type ssh pi@IP_ADDRESS where IP_ADDRESS is the IP of your Pi that you found earlier. Windows users can use Cygwin, MobaXterm, or PuTTY. If you got the IP right, you should see something like this:

Since I had not connected to the Pi before, I had to accept the ECDSA key to continue. The default password, as stated in earlier answers here and in the official documentation, is raspberry. Now, we are logged in to Raspbian over SSH, and can do things. You should see this now on the SSH console:

Now, as per the MOTD prompt, you need to run sudo raspi-config which brings you to the same configuration window you would see if you had booted it up with HDMI. Among other things here, you should enable the SSH server. After configuring it, you can use this same setup to reconnect to the Pi over ssh again after the reboot.