element 14 7 pi touchscreen lcd display supplier

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All the accessories listed below tier pricing need to pay.We won"t deliver until you select. Power adaptor should be 5V/2000mA in output and center pin for positive voltage and the outer shield for negative voltage .The temperature for controller RTD2660 would increase during working.That"s normal phenomenon,not quality problem.

ER-TFTV070A1-3 is 800x480 dots 7" color tft lcd module display with small HDMI signal driver board and superior display quality,super wide view angle. It"s optional for optional 4-wire resistive touch panel with USB driver board and cable, optional capacitive touch panel with USB controller board and cable, optional remote control,It can be used in any embedded systems,car,industrial device,security and hand-held equipment which requires display in high quality and colorful video.It"s also ideal for Raspberry PI by HDMI.

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Until recently touchscreen (or touchpanel) displays were both small and expensive. That all changed in late 2015, when the Raspberry Pi Foundation introduced a touchscreen accessory for the Raspberry Pi. This is a large 800 x 480 display with 24-bit color capable of displaying 60 fps video, and it includes a high-quality touchpanel. The display has an active surface of about 3 1/4 x 6 inches (8.5 x 15.5 cm) and costs just US$60. Since the Pi can run JMRI and a touch on the panel acts like a mouse-click, this makes creating simple touch-based control panels using the Pi quite easy, and with a total cost around US$200, including the Pi and assuming some kind of control bus interface, rather inexpensive.

Note: there are lots of “touchpanel” accessories for the Pi, generally both smaller and more expensive. Make sure you get the Official Raspberry Pi 7” Touchscreen.

As usual with the Pi, things are sold separately, so you’ll need the Pi itself. One of the B models is probably the best choice, so you will have USB ports for connecting to various things. You will also need a power supply and memory card. A full 2 Amp power supply is recommended (or two smaller supplies, see below). If you plan to connect to a control bus (such as LocoNet) you will need a USB adapter for that as well.

Note that with the touchpanel connected, the other display connectors are inoperative (although they can be used for video, such as a camera output). I create my Pi’s memory card on a Pi with a normal monitor and get VNC (remote console) working, before I put the card in the touchpanel Pi. That way I can work on the Pi from my computer with a large monitor using VNC, rather than trying to edit files on the small touchpanel screen.

I’ll cover the software aspects of control panels using the Pi elsewhere, as the same methods apply to both small touchpanels and large displays. This page will talk about the technical aspects of using the panel. One comment on software: the touchpanel support is built into Raspbian Jessie, so that’s recommended as the operating system if you want to keep things simple.

Which Pi you use is up to you, as long as you use one compatible with the touchpanel (i.e., not the original A or B or the Pi Zero, it must be a +, 2 or 3). While you could use a 3B, that’s probably more power than you need for a simple control panel, unless you’re going to be doing more. I’d use a 2B myself, although a hypothetical future 3A with WiFi may be a cheaper option (I’ll have to see when it comes out).

It may actually be possible to use the original Pi, but it would require soldering I2C lines (SCL & SDA) onto the Pi, as the ones on the GPIO pins are apparently for the wrong bus. And there’s apparently some kind of software support that was needed but not available at release. I’d just use the later Pi models, where I2C was included in the flat display cable so you don’t need to do anything.

There are plenty of instructions online for assembling the panel, not that there’s really a whole lot of assembly required. In the U.S. the primary distributor is Element 14, and their website includes a link to the assembly instructions. I’ll just cover some basic considerations.

Note: there’s a film of protective plastic wrap over the front of the display. Leave that in place until you have the panel fully assembled and ready for use (or even until you have it mounted) to reduce the risk of scratching the front face, which is not hardened to prevent scratches.

The instructions talk about connecting the actual display to its controller card (two flat cables) and screwing that to the inner set of mounting points on the display. In the ones currently being sold, this seems to have been done at the factory, so all you need to do is mount the Pi itself.

The Raspberry Pi needs to mount onto the control board. There are standoffs on the board, and the package contains the needed screws (really small phillips). Make sure you attach the Pi so that the end with the rectangular “display” connector is mounted at the same end as the matching connector (also marked “display”) on the control board.

Actually, it is possible to flip the Pi over, so that the cable runs between the Pi and the control board, or with it twisted, although that may produce extra stress on the display cable. This makes the whole assembly thinner, which is helpful if mounting in a very constrained space. However to do that, you’ll either need two power supplies or the USB splitter cable (as described below) or you’ll have to bend the two GPIO pins used for power and ground on the Pi so that they stick out to the side.

Although you don’t need a case (and it would be hard to attach one), it’s not a bad idea to protect the exposed electronics on the Pi. A small sheet of plastic with holes that match the screw positions and a notch for the display cable can be used, but I prefer a couple of hex standoffs with an Adafruit Pi Protector top panel (which has a cutout for the display cable, so you don’t have to make a notch where the cable goes.

Once the Pi is mounted, connect the flat cable in the box between the two multipin “display” connectors (either way works). This cable makes all of the display and touch-panel connections to the Pi. Be sure to connect to the “display” connector, as the Pi has a similar connector marked “camera”.

Note that the display connectors have a small plastic latch with tabs at each end that needs to be pulled out a very short distance (just over 1 mm) before the cable can be inserted. Pull gently with a fingernail on one end at a time to loosen, then insert the display cable and push the tabs back in (again, gently) while holding the cable in place. It’s possible to do this with two hands, but it helps if you have a friend hold the cable while you latch it.

There are basically two ways to power this: power the Pi and the display separately, or power one and connect the two together. The latter method is simpler and what I use.

Both the display board and the Pi have the same micro USB connector used for +5V power. To power them individually, simply connect two separate power supplies. For the display, the Pi Foundation says that a 500 mA supply is sufficient (I haven’t measured it myself). For the Pi, it depends on the model. For the 2B, a 1,000 mA supply is the minimum, and you’ll probably want something closer to 1,200 mA, more if you have significant USB use.

A simpler method is to connect the panel and Pi together by running the included red and black jumpers from the pins on the display’s control board to the appropriate GPIO pins. You can find the instructions for this on the Element 14 website. Doing this requires a larger power supply, and the full 2 Amp version recommended for the Pi 2 (or the 2.5A for the Pi 3) is probably a good idea, although I expect that provides a good margin for additional peripherals.

To do this, you’ll need to connect the red and black cables that come in the box between the Pi’s GPIO header (+5V and Ground, GPIO pins 2 and 6 respectively) and the control board’s pins. Then you connect your power supply to either the control board or the Pi itself. It doesn’t appear to matter which, although most instructions imply that the control board is preferable. However I’ve run a panel off the Pi’s power for an extended period, with no apparent problems, and my reading of the electrical specs says that this should be okay.

If you want to use one power supply, but keep the GPIO pins clear for a cable or HAT, you can buy a split USB cable that breaks out one power supply to two USB micro connectors (Pimoroni makes one, but I haven’t found anyone in the U.S. reselling it). This is probably the best solution for a permanent mounting (micro USB connectors are much less likely to vibrate loose than a simple GPIO jumper).

A panel like this can easily be mounted to the layout fascia, presuming you have a large enough one, with room behind it. You’ll need about 7.5 x 4 inches (18 x 11 cm) on the outside, with a cutout of 16.5 x 10 cm (6.5 x 4 inches) and about two inches (5 cm) of interior clearance, although it’s that deep only for a smaller portion.

The panel has a thin black surround that is slightly larger than the gray steel case holding the panel. This is actually an extension of the glass front of the display (yes, that black bit is really glass!) so be careful not to put too much force on it, and don’t try drilling it for mounting holes.

The cut in the layout fascia should be as level as possible along the bottom, although you can use tape to shim one side so that the display sits level if it isn’t quite right.

Note that if you use this approach, there is a ribbon cable on the bottom of the display, so you need to make a small cutout in the fascia to keep the cable from being pinched by the weight of the panel resting on it, or make the whole cutout slightly taller, and shim both sides to raise the display up slightly.

While it’s possible to mount a touchpanel upside-down and invert the display (putting the ribbon cable at the top), don’t do that. The display has a much better viewing angle from above when the ribbon cable is facing down. One exception: if you were mounting the panel above eye level (e.g., on a valence above the layout), mounting upside down and reversing the display in software would give you a better viewing angle from below.

The panel can lie flush for typical mounting heights and distances. If you need to work up close on a very low panel, you may want to angle the base out slightly (this will require a bit more work to attach). If doing that, you should support the black surround to avoid breaking it. Using one of the layers from the Pimoroni frame (also available in the U.S. from Adafruit) as a support would be a good idea. Note: the full Pimoroni frame mounts the display upside down (cable at the top), but that’s because the legs only fit one way and upside down works better for tabletop/shelf viewing of a slightly-angled standing display. If you just use one layer as a support, you can mount in any orientation.

This was easy to install and it looks good. The Touchscreen is responsive and clear, but you might want to use a stylus. The only issue i had is finding a case for it. You"ll want to get one right away, unless you have a 3D printer to make one yourself. The screen is really thin, so I didn"t want to carry it around without some protection. Overall, it"s a great touchscreen, especially for the price, and I like that it is Raspi-branded.

This screen worked right out of the box! Touch worked great with my new pi 3! However aside how fragile the (non functional) edges are, the only real issue I see is upon shutdown of the pi... The screen goes through a series of screen washes/whiteouts and never really shuts off.. I have to pull power to get it to turn off.. I"ve even tried usb/provided jumper wires.. And both results in the same thing. Not sure if this an issue per se, but it is bothersome.. I can just turn the unit off, I need to unplug it too..

I"m using it to run a lighting and irrigation system for my house. The color graphical interface allows me to use BMP images of my house and yard for control screens, and its built into an enclosure set into the wall for a slick professional look. I even put an access from the backside of the wall for wiring it without having to remove the Pi or the touchscreen.

I purchased 5 touchscreen. Two before and three in January. Touch and display quality is superb. After two-three month of use (no rough use; handled with care), display LCD and front touchpanel (black bezel) break apart. They both are connected using a thin double sided tape. I was planning to use in industrial environment but after such issue, I dropped my plan to use it in industrial environment.

Five of two displays are not in good condition. First display"s touch-panel and display LCD was break apart after two-three month. The second among five displays had another issue. Display LCD was mounted slightly right side of the touchpanel. Once you power-up display, it is easily be seen that LCD panel was a bit off-side. The other display"s screen guard having so many scratches on them which seems mishandling.

I am using Raspberry Pi 3. The display came up with no problems. I am just waiting for the Smarti Pi Touch enclosure (pre-ordered after the Kickstarter project closed) before continuing to work with it.

The only question(s) that I have are regarding what sort of additional processor power is inside the screen, and whether powering it from the micro-usb connection whilst also bridged from the RPi3 is an issue (it hasn"t hurt anything, yet!).

I WAS DISAPOINTED THAT THE UNIT DISPLAYS EVERYTHING UPSIDE DOWN. I HAD TO USE THE LCD_ROTATE=2 COMMAND IN CONFIG.TXT TO FIX IT. THE INITIAL BOOT IS STILL UPSIDE DOWN BUT I GUESS AFTER IT READ THE CONFIG.TXT, IT FLIPS. SHOULDN"T IT COME STANDARD RIGHT SIDE UP?

The must annoying feature is the bright white screen when it loses signal as the OS shuts down. The touch input is inconsistent as input. I was using the I2C for a device was not able to get it going on the alternate I2C, but fortunately the required clock and data are on the DSI cable ... wasted hours finding that out. An OLED display, higher res, and lower current draw would be really nice in the next version.

I forgot to check that this LCD touchscreen don"t have a case. Much better that you have a notification (e.g. recommending the user to purchase also a case) when purchasing this kind of product. But thank you for this product, I will purchase again soon.

The only minor drawback that everyone should be aware (which is to be expected, honestly) is that the display draws quite a noticeable amount of current. The SmartiPi case comes with an splitter USB cable for the power source, but if you expect to use that, be prepared with a (very) beefy power supply, else you"ll get the thunder icon on the screen all the time and a very reduced performance (Just discovered that the RPi3 reduces its own clock when power is low).

I currently power this with a separate 1.5Amp supply for the screen and a 2Amp supply for the RPi3 and everything works just nice. This totals to a whopping 3.5A, which may be overkill, but keep that in mind as a reference.

I am impressed with this screen, I also got the mating case (SmartPi Touch) and it assembled nicely. With the separate case, the included jumpers and cable are not needed. The PCB was already attached with the standoffs. The packaging was super! The screen is slightly larger than 7 inches. I measured it as 7 5/8" wide X 4 3/8 high with a diagonal measurement of 8 9/16.

This official Raspberry Pi 7" touchscreens now come with the display controller already connected and mounted to the back of the display. You still need to be careful pulling forward the small black tab ends that connect a ribbon cable to the RPi.

I bought the companion enclosure as well. This Touchscreen works exactly as described. I am very pleased with the display. I ended up using a mouse anyway as the icons (while clear are very tiny) and selection areas are a bit small for fat fingers.

I connected it to a Raspberry Pi 3 B running Stretch and it seems to be working perfectly. I had been previously driving a VGA monitor from HDMI through an adapter. The RPI 7" screen started up just fine without changing or installing anything with the OS.

I connected it to a Raspberry Pi 3 B running Stretch and it seems to be working perfectly. I had been previously driving a VGA monitor from HDMI through an adapter. The RPI 7" screen started up just fine without changing or installing anything with the OS.

Based on other comments here and looking at one of these at a maker space, I bought the smartipi touch case for this; it"s strongly constructed and works great. Only issue was that I"m using this with a model 3 B+, and that takes a different door on the back than comes with the case (this is being fixed by the smartipi folks, but I don"t know the logistics of getting their new cases into Sparkfun)

I have tried other touch screens for the Raspberry Pi. They had complicated assembly and were very difficult to get them to work. This unit was easy to install and get working, is very nice looking. I am very Happy with it.

Right out of the box it worked. Didn"t even have to do anything to the RPi (in fact, both were taken out of the box at the same time, connected, and worked on the first power up). Screen quality is good for price. Also ordered the "SmartPi Touch" case which holds everything together very nicely.

Ordered it, a Raspberry Pi 3 B+, and a power supply. (Had a mouse, keyboard, and uSD on hand.). It came a couple of days ago, and I put together yesterday. Had noticed in the documentation that there"s a micro USB power input, and a standard USB output. In the configuration where the power supply is plugged directly into the Pi and the LCD interface is powered via a USB cable plugged into one of the Pi"s USB ports to the LCD"s micro USB, the LCD won"t light up at all. When the power supply is plugged into the LCD controller board and the USB cable connects power to the Pi, I get "low voltage" warnings (yellow "lightning bold"). When I use the provided F/F jumpers, it works fine, but this will cause problems plugging in other "hats", as well as clearance problems. (In my application, separate power supplies would be a BIG PROBLEM.) BTW, I checked with two different USB cables, and got the same problems as well as when I tried an Adafruit 5.25V power supply. (I was about to try a second RPi3B+ when the original one stopped booting. Fortunately I had another that I"d been using as a "pass-around" sample at talks, and fortunately when I tried it, it still worked, so now the "dead" one will be passed around!) Also, it could prove really useful to know what size those mounting screws are in case they get lost! Ace Hardware recently opened a new store about half a mile from my house!

The screen is portable enough to take with you and the Pi will use it with no configuration change when it"s powered up. Used it to set up several Raspberry Pis in a remote lab. Touch screen is nice but bring along a keyboard if you have to do any setup work. One thing to make it better, replace the jumper wires with a ribbon cable connected to 1x5 and 2x2 pin headers.

I have a Raspberry Pi in each room of my home and they run a Kiosk interface for home automation, cameras and more. I"ve tried some cheaper ones and none have survived. (I"m hard on equipment) I haven"t managed to break one of these yet.

Got a PI3+, 7" touchscreen and SmartPI case for manufacture test. I put these together and booted the latest Raspbian. The LCD and touchscreen connect to the display connector using a short FPC cable. The display booted and the touch screen just worked out of the box. There were some nice but not well documented improvements. They provide a Y USB cable to power both the PI and the LCD. This is a cleaner solution than the jumper wires they provide.I"m not a big fan of using lego blocks in a industrial environment but the case went together easily and does a decent job of protecting the display and the PI. Some reported a inverted display issue but that seems to have been resolved.

A truly plug-and-play display for the Raspberry Pi. Does not steal any additional extension connector pins if you power it with a USB power supply and leaves the I2C1 interface available for other devices.

Big enough for somewhat squinting actual Raspberry PI development and computer work, but really shines for touch screen optimized large button control panels.

You can just install a Pi3 or 4 on the back, but with a 4 you really need some additional airflow. The SmartiPi Touch 2 enclosure works better. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/16302

It works fine, no glitches, no problems, no hair pulling moments. Once electrically connected to my RPi 3B+ it"s good to go. I run it with the "lite" version of the Raspberry Pi OS with only xorg drivers installed, no full desktop or windows manager, as part of an in-the-field project with a HQ camera attached. My only complaint is the ribbon cable could stand to be about 6 inches longer.

It works great, the colors are beautiful, and finger touch works fine. What I like most is that the Raspberry Pi GPIO pins are all still available - except for one +5v pin and one Ground pin. Both are redundant (i.e. others are available). So, this is not an issue at all. I also like that data connects to the Pi via the IPS ribbon cable. Another thing I like is that power connects to the Pi via two jumper wires. The Pi is fussy about its power supply voltage. So, the jumper wires are better because they are heavier gouge than a small PCB trace.

I connect a Pi v4 and put the whole thing in the SmartPI Touch 2 case from Sparkfun and now it looks pretty professional. Make sure you use a good power supply.

Where is the documentation? This thing is so poorly documented it"s almost a joke. The whole point of the RPi ecosystem is to enable Makers and learning about electronics, so why isn"t this fully documented?

I used this to build a portable utility/testing device for my company. It works fantastic with the SmartiPi Touch Pro Case on Amazon. The touchscreen functions great, only thing is you can"t register mousedown and mouseup events in Chromium (only click). Other than that it"s great!

I got a couple of these for several RPi projects that Im developing and they are working amazingly well for the application. If these fit your application needs I wouldn"t hesitate to recommend them.