can power conditioners cause lcd displays to malfunction factory

Whether it’s your dryer tripping a breaker or lighting striking your home, power surges are far too common. Keeping things safe and operating smoothly is the utmost priority, but how much damage can power surges do anyway? Should they be on your list of worries if keeping your TV safe is a priority?

A power surge can damage a TV. The damage can be minimal, such as a single HDMI port no longer working, or it’s possible that it could be completely fried and no longer able to operate. A surge protector is a simple device that will add a layer of protection to any devices connected to it.

The last thing you want is to be in a situation where a little preparation could have saved the day. While protectors are of course important, what causes a power surge anyway? How can you know that a surge is the source of your problems? To find out more about power surges and TVs, read on!

Look, you don’t have to be an electrician to understand that electricity can be dangerous. That’s not just for you either, it can be a real electronics killer if you don’t watch out. So what exactly is happening when you experience a power surge? How does this phenomenon spell disaster for TV?

Also known as transient voltage, power surges are quite simply an increase in voltage. Sometimes this increase is strong enough to damage and destroy the items you have attached to the circuit; which, sadly, includes your TV.

If you’re looking for an exact source, most power surges as caused by items inside the home. Here are some heavy-duty appliances you can usually point your finger at when power surges are a threat:

However, you may also experience an outside power surge. If this is the case, then mother nature is to blame. Things like random lighting strikes are usually the cause of power surges that come from outside. But what actually happens when you experience a power surge?

Well, time to put on your science cap. When an electrical current passes through a device and it happens to exceed the recommended operating range, electrical arcs can destroy the wiring component. Even a small surge can do damage, especially if it happens frequently.

Power surges can be bad news, as you can imagine. While you may not get full device failure, there are some other consequences of power surges that do damage over time rather than all at once. So how can you tell if your TV has experienced a power surge? What should you look out for?

Generally, if a device that was working properly doesn’t anymore, a power surge could be the culprit. If this happens, following a circuit breaker tripping or another electrical event, you can further reduce the possibilities of this happening.

Other than device failure, what else should you look out for? Here are some other signs that you may have experienced a power surge problem in your home:

Device components not working — Check the device’s lights, the clock, or really any other aspect of the TV to see if you can find any abnormalities. This could be a sign of a power surge.

Those are just a quick few things to keep in mind when trying to diagnose a power surge issue yourself. If you are worried or need a second opinion, contact your local electrician. They’ve got the experience you need not only to identify the issue but also to fix it if need be.

Some things are just out of our hands; power surges are one of them. While you can try your best to manage the risks from inside your home, like heavy appliances, you can’t control mother nature. So what should you do to protect your TV from sudden jumps in voltage?

Put quite simply, to protect against power surges, get a surge protector. It’s the only way you can prevent damage from all kinds of power surges, both inside and outside. Without one, you leave yourself open to damage down the road.

A surge protector is a simple device. They help divert voltage spikes safely through the ground, meaning they don’t reach your device but rather go straight toward the earth. The best part? You can get a decent surge protector for very cheap, like this model from Belkin (on Amazon).

However, a cheaper surge protector is not always the best option. Sometimes if your equipment is more expensive or sensitive, then it makes sense to purchase a higher-quality surge protector like the Panamax M8-EX (on Amazon). I’ve been using this model for many years now and never had any issues with it or my devices.

In a perfect world, you’d have surge protectors on every appliance. But that’s just not the case for most people. So what should you do if your TV isn’t working and a power surge seems to be the likely culprit?

The first thing you’ll want to try is performing a power drain. This will make sure that no more residual power is left in your TV and can solve many problems.

This is a great first move and can often be a remedy for even the most troublesome of TV issues. If it still doesn’t work, or your TV is on but acting weird, a factory reset might be the next best option.

Keep in mind that not all TVs will have the same reset process. If you can, use your owner’s manual. You’ll find more specific steps there on how to perform a full factory reset. If neither of these steps fixes your problem, it could be an issue with the power manager for the device. If this is the case, you may need to get external help from a TV repair expert.

When things go south, the first thing you might think of is your insurance. Does homeowner’s insurance typically cover power surges? Since they are so common, many people are asking this question.

In some cases, power surges are protected under homeowner’s insurance if you have protection for personal items. Not all policies will offer this coverage. Get in contact with your local agent for more information on your situation.

Personal Property Coverage is what helps you replace your belongings when they get destroyed by a covered peril. In most cases, a power surge is considered a covered peril. But, there are limits you’ll need to be aware of before calling in a claim.

In almost every situation, the homeowner is responsible for the damage caused by a power surge. Of course, if you have insurance, personal belongings might be covered, but that’s not always the case.

This is why getting proper protection is key to keeping things safe. Look, surge protectors are cheap and can save you thousands on needing to replace your TV outright. Since they usually offer more than one outlet for use, even a single surge protector can help with a whole load of electronics, including your TV. So get some before it’s too late!

Power surges are both common and costly. According to IBM, every home or business gets hit every day by at least one surge measuring between 100 and 1,000 volts. The effects of a surge can be subtle or dramatic, depending on the surge’s duration, intensity, and whether the affected devices have adequate protection. Smaller surges destroy internal circuitry slowly, over the course of several months. Larger surges, on the other hand, inflict the same damage, but in less than a millisecond. If the surge is long enough and strong enough, it may even heat up the internal electronic circuits to the point that they catch fire. In addition to the obvious costs needed to replace damaged devices, surges also cause lost productivity (when employees are idle in business environments) and loss of use (when home theater equipment and appliances are idle in home environments).

Surge protectors protect against spikes and surges. They come in many configurations, and most include EMI/RFI filtering to decrease line noise and improve audio/video quality.

A surge protector should be sufficient for devices with lower inrush currents, like TVs and stereos. Their usefulness, however, depends on the protection you need. If your equipment is mission-critical or your facility experiences frequent outages, this might not be the solution for you.

And while surge protectors require less money up front, they often cost more in the long run, because they typically need to be replaced every few years.

Power conditioners not only protect against surges; they protect against brownouts as well. With built-in voltage regulators, they continuously monitor power, then condition it and keep it steady.

What a power conditioner will not provide is EMI/RFI shielding. If you want to improve video quality or decrease line noise, this might not be your best option.

While power conditioners cost more up front than surge protectors, they’re better suited for higher inrush devices like copiers and laser printers. Because they’re designed for devices that need ongoing power regulation, they’re often used in factories and hospitals.

A UPS can do everything a surge protector can do, but its main purpose is to reduce downtime that can cost your business money. And unlike a surge protector, a UPS features battery backup that allows equipment to stay up and running through power failures.

Like power conditioners, many UPS systems have voltage regulators. These models not only provide battery backup, but they also keep voltage at an acceptable level.

For a data center or server room, a UPS is your best option. They come in various configurations for both single- and 3-phase applications. Many also include special features, like LCD panels, hot-swappable batteries and energy-saving operation.

In the United States, National Electric Code article 210-19 FPN No. 4. suggests a 5% maximum combined voltage drop on the feeder and branch circuits to the furthest outlet "will provide reasonable efficiency of operation." The Canadian electrical code also requires no more than a 5% drop between the meter and outlet. Applying the 5% tolerance gives a nominal 120V range of 114V to 126V.

Yes, a power conditioner will stabilize the voltage from a generator. However, it will not convert the modified sine wave produced by some generators to pure sine wave, making those generators unsuitable for sensitive electronics.

Yes, but not with the printer itself. Printers and copiers use a hot roller called a fuser unit to bind ink toner to the paper as it passes through the printer. Periodically, the printer needs to reheat the fuser unit to the required temperature, and this requires a lot of electricity. To prevent a power sag (under-voltage) from impacting computers and other sensitive equipment on the same circuit as the printer, use a power conditioner with Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR).

Connecting a printer to a line conditioner may prevent the printer from getting the voltage it needs. A better approach would be to have a qualified electrician check the capacity of the existing line and add a separate circuit for the printer if necessary.

A power or voltage spike is a sudden increase in voltage, ranging from a few hundred volts to tens of thousands and lasting between 1 and 30 microseconds. A power surge is like a spike but lasts longer. Voltage fluctuations are normal and do not typically harm equipment connected to an outlet. Over- or under-voltages occur when the voltage reaching powered devices falls out of the normal service range.

As a power conditioner corrects high or low input voltage, it will make a gentle clicking sound. The frequency of the clicking will depend on the quality of the utility power in your area. The clicking is normal, and no action is required on your part.

A power conditioner can potentially improve sound quality by providing a cleaner and more stable power supply to audio equipment. Power fluctuations and electrical noise can interfere with the performance of audio equipment, leading to degradation in sound quality. By conditioning the power, a power conditioner can reduce the amount of electrical noise and provide a stable voltage, which can result in improved sound quality.

However, it is important to note that the effect of a power conditioner on sound quality can vary depending on the equipment and the specific electrical problems being addressed. In some cases, the improvement in sound quality may be minimal or not noticeable, while in other cases it can be significant.

A power conditioner is an electrical device that improves the quality of the power supplied to an electrical load by regulating voltage, reducing noise, and filtering out electrical disturbances. The goal of a power conditioner is to protect sensitive electronic equipment from damage caused by power fluctuations and electrical noise.

A surge protector, on the other hand, is specifically designed to protect electronic equipment from damage caused by power surges and spikes. It accomplishes this by diverting excess voltage away from connected equipment.

Some power conditioners include surge protection as part of their functionality, effectively combining the two functions into a single device. In these cases, the power conditioner can improve the quality of the power supply while also providing protection against power surges and spikes.

If improved sound quality is your primary goal, an isolation transformer is the best choice. Microphones, instruments and amplifiers can pick up unwanted hums or buzzes if they are plugged into the same circuit as items such as fluorescent lights, air conditioners and dimmer switches. If your band is playing in a bar, even the bartender"s blender is a potential source of interference!

An isolation transformer uses two coils of copper wire, wound so that the primary coil connected to incoming AC power induces a current in the secondary coil powering connected devices. Since there is no direct connection between the coils, musical instruments and recording equipment attached to the secondary coil are isolated from audio frequency noise on the power line.

A surge protector designed for a standard AC power outlet requires a functional ground connection in order to work properly. The surge protector diverts excess voltage to the ground wire, preventing it from reaching connected equipment.

This is not recommended because the extension cord may not be robust enough to carry the current required by the surge protector safely. In addition, long cable runs increase electrical resistance, which can cause overheating and fire hazards. Instead, choose a surge protector with a long input cord designed to carry the required current safely, such as one of these models.

This is not recommended because long cable runs can cause overheating and fire hazards. Instead, choose a surge protector with a long input cord designed to carry the required current safely, such as one of these models.

This is not recommended because long cable runs can cause overheating and fire hazards. Increasing the number of outlets also makes overloads more likely. Instead, choose a surge protector with a long input cord designed to carry the required current safely, such as one of these models.

Tripping breakers are usually caused by current (amperage) overloads. That means too much equipment is plugged into the surge protector or the outlet. Unplugging some equipment or replacing it with equipment that requires less power (wattage) may prevent the breaker from tripping. Other possible causes include a compromised breaker in the electrical panel that requires replacement or an appliance that draws too much amperage on startup, such as a heavy-duty power tool. High-amperage devices may require a 20 amp outlet instead of the typical 15 amp outlet. A 20 amp outlet can be combined with a 20 amp surge protector, such as one of these models.

This may indicate the surge protector is damaged or faulty. You should unplug the surge protector and replace it. If you still notice a problem, consult an electrician.

A surge protector should be labeled as a surge protective device or similar on its nameplate. In addition, the manufacturer"s documentation will identify it as a surge protector and provide specifications for the level of surge protection provided, including the joule rating and voltage let-through rating.

A surge protector is designed to protect against very short-term and high-intensity voltage spikes and surges. A power conditioner is designed to protect against longer-term and lower-intensity voltage sags (brownouts) and swells (overvoltages). The automatic voltage regulation (AVR) feature of line-interactive UPS systems performs the same function as a power conditioner. Power conditioners and UPS systems typically include built-in surge protection in addition to their voltage regulation features.

A residual-current device, such as a GFCI outlet, monitors for leakage current to ground and interrupts the circuit when it detects leakage current. Interrupting or breaking the circuit prevents equipment damage and the potential for dangerous electric shocks. Rather than protecting against excessive voltages like a surge protector, it protects against current (amperage) leaking to the wrong place in the circuit due to a wiring fault or other problem.

There is controversy in todays topic, but there should not be. To those of us who assemble and enjoy high end audio systems we pick and choose our components carefully. The speakers, the front end, the amps, and yes, even the cables. All of the things including the room in which the system sits makes a difference in the sound, the presentation and the feel of our audio system.

In todays world of high end audio we are bombarded with product after product that is promised to improve on our listening experiences. One of these areas of improvement is within the way we power our systems. It’s a fact that some of us have bad, dirty or issues with our electricity that we do not even know about.

In fact there are audio systems being powered by bad electricity every day, and one of those systems may be yours. You probably do not even know it. One way to test for this is to answer a simple question.

Question: Does your audio system sound different to you on different days or times? Have you ever sat down to listen and realized your system just wasn’t sounding as good as it was just the day before?

If you have been into setting up an audio system and getting serous about it one thing you may have heard about is power conditioners. There are quite few brands making quality power conditioners these days. Audioquest, Isotek, Shunyata are just three of the most known brands in this area of audio products.

These products claim to clean your electricity for better system performance. They are said to remove grit and grime from your line and therefore lowering the noise floor of your system. This in turn would allow the music to “breathe” better, to flow better and to emerge from silence. This will improve things such as imaging and 3 dimensionality within a system.

I have been using one of these conditioners for several months now, and I have previously talked about it. The $1200 Audioquest Niagara. This is a simple box that you simply plug your components into and just let it run 24/7. It’s a set it and forget it product much like a power strip.

These Audioquest Niagara products have garnered some amazing reviews and press. So much so, it’s almost unbelievable to understand that a $1200 glorified power strip could actually change the sound of a system. I have to say that inserting the 1200 into my reference system did very little to change anything. I heard a bit more shine on the top end, a little bit, just a tad. More clarity. But these were very small improvements. It sounded like I had cleaner power, but it wasn’t night and day nor was the sound change worth $1200 or even close to that.

I kept in in place to add one more level of protection for my gear in case of a power surge or spike. Knowing it was there provided at least some peace of mind but I wasn’t quite sure if it was really needed within my system.

One day I noticed my system had some buzzing coming from it, and some hiss. I was testing a new product and there was noise coming from the product itself and my speakers. My Audioquest 1200 did nothing to solve this, so it seemed to me it wasn’t a power issue but a “product issue”. Even so, I started to get obsessed with this noise as it was now the second piece that did this in my reference room.

I bought a DC blocker to make sure it was not DC on the line causing issues and it didn’t do much of anything. I then decided to finally try something different. Something that a couple of friends of mine have urged me to try for years.

For years I have read great things (and not so great things) about PS Audio’s line of Power Regenerators. These are called Power Plants as they literally create all new electricity that is clean and without distortion. They also regulate voltage on your line. They also create an all new sine wave and show you details on the large touch screens. For example you can see the voltage coming from your wall (mine ranges from 123 to 128 and depends on times of day) and the total distortion coming in (mine is at 6% right now). These also eliminate all DC from your line which can cause buzzing and issues with some gear. (Usually tube gear).

Then you can see what the unit is putting out to your gear, and that is distortion free clean DC free electricity for your audio components. In theory, there should not be any noises coming from gear or speakers. There should be an improvement in the sound as well. But the question is, DO THEY WORK?

Some say these are nothing more than Snake Oil but this simply can not be for one very important reason. These are not sold at a carnival sideshow. They have been around since the 1990s from PS Audio and they have not been sued or shut down. There is a full 30 day no questions asked in home trial period, meaning you can get a full refund for any reason after trying one for yourself.

If this is purely Snake Oil, then one can try it for themselves and see. If it is, they can get their money back easily. So this means these products can not be snake oil, as snake oil is a scam..something that doesn’t do a thing for your issues other than bleed your wallet. Snake Oil salesmen make the sale and RUN, never offering trials or refunds. So no, these are not snake oil.

I will also say that these offerings from PS Audio are not cheap, and the big flagship power plant 20 is a cool $10k. The lowest model, the PP 12 (power plant 12) is the smallest and costs $5499. This can power most systems as long as you do not have amps like me (Class A monoblocks) and has the capability to handle 1200 watts. The 12 has “whisper” fans inside that keep it cool, but the larger models like the 15 and 20 do not, they run 100% silent.

I decided to try one, and placed an order for the PP12. PS audio allows for instant trade in credit as well, so I entered in my Audioquest Niagara for trade and they gave me full retail for it. That eliminated $1299 from the cost of the 12 instantly. By doing this we can get the discount in the value of our trade and if we love the power plant we simply send the trade in with the supplied label. If not, we send the PP back for a refund. What an easy way to give these things a try.

When I powered everything up, that problem piece I had with the buzz and hiss? Well, no more buzzing. As for the hiss, still there but it turned out to be a defect with the integrated amp unit. But the loud buzzing sound from the unit? GONE. So right out of the gate the power plant is doing things the Audioquest could not do.

After an hour listening session I was stunned at the change in the sound within my system but wow, the 12 was getting RED HOT! The fans started to go so fast it almost sounded like a jet plane ready to take off. Surely this could not be? A piece that is supposed to remove all noise adding a loud noise? Surely something was off. It was. The Pass Amps were taxing the PP12 so I removed them and plugged them into the wall.

This lightened the load on the PP12 but now the sound suffered. YES, the amps sounded BETTER, MUCH BETTER into the PP12. After a chat with PS Audio they concluded that I would need the PP15 or PP20 for these amps as they use 300 WATTS each just when on. Being Class A, they run hot and use power. The little PP12 was not designed for such power hungry monoblocks. Oops.

I sent back the PP12 to PS Audio and they sent me a PP20 (that I upgraded to and paid for). I decided to go for a 20 as it could handle my system with ease. There are no fans to make noise and it’s supposed to be even better in regards to what it does. The ultimate power regenerator from PS Audio comes at a cost though. This unit is $9,999.00. Just a hair under $10 grand.

WHOA! That seems insane, right? Well, it is possible to get a better price so I would suggest calling to order. I do not think I have paid retail for any audio gear in close to 10 years, you shouldn’t have to either. There is also the used market and these pop up from time to time in very nice condition.

Well, the 20 arrived and this is a massive 105lb beast that Debby and I managed to lift up onto my audio stand. It’s huge but also has a massive 7″ touch screen and well, besides looking like a modern microwave it’s a serious looking piece of audio gear.

OK, the PP 20 has been in my reference system for weeks and guess what? It’s totally transformed my system to heights I never knew existed for my room and system. It has brought an amazing silky inky black background for all music to emerge from. It has refined the sound in such a dramatic way, it’s uncanny. My system now sounds like it always has at 2AM when the electrical grid is less polluted. It sounds like this anytime of the day or night. It’s incredible how the details now emerge, the bass weight increases and everything sounds more 3D. It’s night and day and its unbelievable to me.

You may know what I mean here when I talk about the system sounding different at noon vs midnight. During the day, your neighbors and town/city are fully lit up. Everyone is using their electricity, and the grid is polluted with grime and noise. This in turn lowers the quality of your systems sound during the day (for many of us but not all). Sure you can install a dedicated 20 AMP line, but that doesn’t do what this PS Audio is doing.

I have a friend who has the 20 with a dedicated line into his audio room. The line alone did not do what he had hoped and his system still sounded grungy during some times of the day. When this happens the sound shrinks, you soundstage gets smaller, and the sound may get harsher or sound “off”. You may lose body, and just want to stop listening. I know I have done this many times. This also causes many audiophiles to think something is off with their system, so they go searching for a new amp, dac or whatever.

When you notice your system sounding different on some days. Worse on some days, better on others or at others times then I will say without question your issues lie within your power. I know this as the PS Audio PP 20 has solved this issue within my system. Not only does it sound better than ever, it sounds like this any time, any day and without fail. This PP20 is NOT snake oil of any kind. Rather, it has truly shocked me with how it has cleaned up my power and made everything sound so good, anytime of the day or night.

My soundstage grew deeper, imaging is now more precise and realistic, there is more body and bass within the music and the highs are more airy. Debby noticed and YES for us it was a pure night and day improvement. It was amazing really, and proved to me that I had power issues. I can literally hear the absence of distortion as the sound is so clean, so pure and so musically satisfying. I couldn’t believe it.

After many back and forth, and living without the PP20 for 3 days before putting it back in again I am so thrilled to say that the PP20 is the real deal. If you have issues with your electricity (you may not even know it) then this product will fix them. What it did for my power was revelatory. It was dramatic. So much so that I see the PP20 just as important, if not moreso, than the amplifier and preamp within MY system.

Now I live very rural. We are 30 minutes from the closest gas station or store or hospital. We do not have many neighbors and we live on 20 acres. Even so, our electricity is not the greatest coming from the wall.

If you research these power plants online some will say to never plug your power amps in to a power plant. This may have been the case for earlier units and older models but the PP12, 15 and 20 are fully capable of powering your amps and delivering pure power to them with plenty of current. Especially the PP20.

When I plug the Pass Labs XA 60.8’s into the wall it’s almost as if they lose some life. When they are in the PP20, it’s as if they are different amps, and improved greatly. It’s as if they are using 75% of their capabilities when going to the wall and 100% when going to the PP20. That is not hyperbole. It’s true and what I have experienced within my system.

I can not go back to listening without the PP20 nor could I go with the amps to the wall. The thing is, it’s so obvious. It’s not one of those things that is hard to hear. It’s instant and took me seconds to understand this was not leaving my system.

The bottom line is that YES, power to your audio components is important. While you may not have bad power, many of us do and it seems it is only getting worse as time goes on. I feel the PP20 is one of the most important purchases I have made within my HiFi journey. Yes it stays and it will not go back. The Audioquest has been kicked to the curb as this is on another level for me (It should be for the cost).

It was hard for me to make this purchase mentally even with the 30 day trial. I hear so many conflicting reports about these power plants. Some like to label them as BS but that is not the case for me unless “BS” stands for “Berry Special” lol.

If you have a nice system and find that it sounds off on some days, and not as good as it has prior you may benefit from a power regenerator. If you have a system that sounds amazing at 1AM but not so much at 11AM then you could benefit from a power regenerator. If you have buzz that comes from some components or even transformer hum from a tube amp, you may benefit from a Power Plant. If your voltage, like mine, has swings all day long you may benefit from a power plant.

Bottom line, this PP20 is like having the city power grid at your front door, served just to you. There is no pollution from your neighbors on your line when a PP20 is installed and powering your audio gear. It’s that simple. It really works.

I leave the PP20 on 24/7 and yes it does improve over the first few days. I’d say it took a week to settle in and deliver the most improvements to my system.

I recently was wondering just how much difference the PP20 was making within my system. After having it installed for a long while now I figured I would remove it from the system 100% and just go back to my old power strip.

Ha! I removed the PP20 and once everything was powered up again via the power strip I could not listen for more than 2 minutes. The sound was harder, sounded like there was dirty power on the line. It was harsher and the soundstage flattened. A tube amp started buzzing again. It was awful. No way I can go back to being with the PP20 in the system. This thing works AMAZINGLY well and has transformed my music listening enjoyment by ten fold. I can not recommend it enough.

So I ended up having my entire room rewired by an electrician and I sold the P20 as we found some bad wiring that was here when we bought the house, hence, the redo. I sold the P20 to fund the rewire and when it was done I was very disappointed as the new rewiring did nothing. The sound was still flat, hard and uninspiring without the P20.

I ended up finding another solution that cost much less, and while it is not as complex as the P20 nor does it regenerate power, it is the best power product I have ever purchased for my system as it costs 1/3 of what the P20 does and fixes all of my issues, even transformer buzzing within some amps I have here.

An uninterruptible power supply (UPS) offers a simple solution: it’s a battery in a box with enough capacity to run devices plugged in via its AC outlets for minutes to hours, depending on your needs and the mix of hardware. This might let you keep internet service active during an extended power outage, give you the five minutes necessary for your desktop computer with a hard drive to perform an automatic shutdown and avoid lost work (or in a worst case scenario, running disk repair software).

In terms of entertainment, it could give you enough time to save your game after a blackout or—perhaps more importantly—give notice to others in a team-based multiplayer game that you need to exit, so you’re not assessed an early-quit penalty.

A UPS also doubles as a surge protector and aids your equipment and uptime by buoying temporary sags in voltage and other vagaries of electrical power networks, some of which have the potential to damage computer power supplies. For from about $80 to $200 for most systems, a UPS can provide a remarkable amount of peace of mind coupled with additional uptime and less loss.

UPSes aren’t new. They date back decades. But the cost has never been lower and the profusion of options never larger. In this introduction, I help you understand what a UPS can offer, sort out your needs, and make preliminary recommendations for purchase. Later this year, TechHive will offer reviews of UPS models appropriate for home and small offices from which you can make informed choices.

The UPS emerged in an era when electronics were fragile and drives were easily thrown off kilter. They were designed to provide continuous—or “uninterruptible”—power to prevent a host of a problems. They were first found in server racks and used with network equipment until the price and format dropped to make them usable with home and small-office equipment.

Any device you owned that suddenly lost power and had a hard disk inside it might wind up with a corrupted directory or even physical damage from a drive head smashing into another part of the mechanism. Other equipment that loaded its firmware off chips and ran using volatile storage could also wind up losing valuable caches of information and require some time to re-assemble it.

Hard drives evolved to better manage power failures (and acceleration in laptops), and all portable devices and most new computers moved to movement-free solid state drives (SSDs) that don’t have internal spindles and read/write heads. Embedded devices—from modems and routers to smart devices and DVRs—became more resilient and faster at booting. Most devices sold today have an SSD or flash memory or cards.

It’s still possible if your battery-free desktop computer suddenly loses power that it may be left in a state that leaves a document corrupted, loses a spreadsheet’s latest state, or happens at such an inopportune moment you must recover your drive or reinstall the operating system. Avoiding those possibilities, especially if you regularly encounter minor power issues at home, can save you at least the time of re-creating lost work and potentially the cost of drive-rebuilding software, even if your hardware remains intact.

A more common problem can arise from networking equipment that has modest power requirements. Losing power means losing access to the internet, even when your cable, DSL, or fiber line remains powered or active from the ISP’s physical plant or a neighborhood interconnection point, rather than a transformer on your building or block. A UPS can keep your network up and running while the power company restores the juice, even if that takes hours.

When power cuts out, the UPS’s battery kicks in. It delivers expected amounts over all connected devices until the battery’s power is exhausted. A modern UPS can also signal to a computer a number of factors, including remaining time or trigger a shutdown through built-in software (as with Energy Saver in macOS) or installed software.

One of the key differentiators among UPSes intended for homes and individual devices in an office is battery capacity. You can buy units across a huge range of battery sizes, and the higher-capacity the battery, the longer runtime you will get or more equipment you can support with a single UPS. In some cases, it may make sense to purchase two or more UPSes to cover all the necessary equipment you have, each matched to the right capacity.

Batteries do need to be replaced, although it can be after a very long period. A UPS typically has a light or will use a sound to indicate a battery that needs to be replaced, and it might indicate this via software running on the computer to which it’s connected.

UPSes for consumer and small-business purposes come in standby and line interactive versions. Standby units keep their battery ready for on-demand, automatic use, but it’s otherwise on standby, as its name indicates. A line interactive version feeds power through an inverter from the wall to connected devices while also charging the battery. It can condition power, smoothing out highs and lows, and switch over to the battery within a few milliseconds. (Other flavors are much more expensive or intended for critical systems and higher power consumption.)

A few years ago, the price differential was high enough that you had to really balance the need for particular features against cost. Now, you may want to opt for a line interaction UPS because of its advantages, which include less wear and tear of the battery, extending its lifetime. Batteries are relatively expensive to replace, at a good fraction of the original item’s purchase price, so keeping them in fit condition longer reduces your overall cost of ownership.

Surges: Utilities sometimes have brief jumps in electrical power, which can affect electronics, sometimes burning out a power supply or frying the entire device. Surge protection effectively shaves off voltage above a certain safe range.

Sags: Your home or office can have a momentary voltage sag when something with a big motor kicks on, like a clothes dryer or a heat pump—sometimes even in an adjacent apartment, house, or building.

Undervoltage (“brownouts”): In some cases with high electrical usage across an area, a utility might reduce voltage for an extended period to avoid a total blackout. This can mess with motor-driven industrial and home equipment—many appliances have motors, often driving a compressor, as in a refrigerator or freezer. With electronics, extended undervoltage has the potential damage some power supplies.

A standby model typically relies on dealing with excess voltage by having inline metal-oxide varistors (MOVs), just as in standalone surge protectors. These MOVs shift power to ground, but eventually burn out after extensive use. At that point, all the UPS models I checked stop passing power through. (That’s as opposed to most surge protectors, which extinguish a “protected” LED on their front, but continue to pass power.)

For power sags and undervoltage, a standby model will tap the battery. If it happens frequently or in quick succession, your UPS might not be up to the task and provide enough delay that a desktop system or hard drive loses power long enough to halt its operating system or crash.

A line interactive UPS continuously feeds power through a conditioner that charges the battery and regulates power. This automatic voltage regulation, known as AVR, can convert voltage as needed to provide clean power to attached outlets without relying on the battery. With a line interactive model, the battery is used only as a last resort.

There’s one final power characteristic of a UPS that can be found in both standby and line interactive models: the smoothness of the alternating current generation produced by the model from the direct current output by its battery. Alternating current reverses its power flow smoothly 60 times each second, and a UPS must simulate that flow, which can be represented as an undulating sine wave.

A UPS might produce a pure sine wave, which adds to cost, or a stairstepped one, in which power shifts more abruptly up and down as it alternates. A rough simulated sine wave can be a showstopper for certain kinds of computer power supplies, which have components that interact poorly with the voltage changes. It could cause premature wear on components or cause them to outright shut down or cause additional damage.

If your device has active power factor correction (PFC) or incorporates fragile or sensitive electronics, especially for audio recording, you likely need a pure sine wave. It’s not always easy to figure out if your device has active PFC; when in doubt, opt for a pure sine wave—the additional cost has come way down.

Even for equipment that isn’t susceptible to power-supply problems, a stepped sine wave can cause a power supply to emit a high-pitched whine when it’s on battery power.

One final UPS feature that may also be helpful: less-expensive models have one or more LEDs to indicate certain status elements, like working from backup power or the internal battery needing to be replaced. Others have an LCD screen (sometimes backlit) that provides a variety of information, sometimes an excessive amount, which may be viewable through software installed on a connected computer.

Most of us have two main scenarios to plan for: keep the network up, and prevent our AC-powered computers from abruptly shutting down. These involve very different choices in hardware and configuration.

One common element between both, however: having enough outlets spaced correctly to plug all your items directly in. Most UPSes feature both battery-backed outlets and surge-protected outlets that aren’t wired into the battery. You need to study quantity and position, as it is strongly recommended you don’t plug a power strip or other extensions into either kind of UPS outlet, as it increases the risk of electrical fire.

Examine all the devices that make up your network. That may include a broadband modem, a VoIP adapter for phone calls, one or more Wi-Fi routers, one or more ethernet switches, and/or a smart home hub. Because you may have these spread out across your home or office, you might wind up requiring two or more UPSes to keep the network going.

If you have a modem, router, and switch (plus a VoIP adapter if you need it) all in close proximity, you might be able to live without other parts of your networking operating during an outage. It’s also probable that you already have this hardware plugged into a surge protector. (These devices tend to not benefit from a UPS’s sag/undervoltage assistance, as their DC adapters tend to provide power in a larger range of circumstances.)

You might already have a simple battery backup built into or included with one or more pieces of equipment. Many smart home hubs have built-in battery backups. And since government regulators typically require a multi-hour battery backup for VoIP service, your broadband modem or VoIP adapter might include an internal battery for that reason.

To find out the size of UPS you need, check the specs on all your equipment. This is usually molded in plastic in black-on-black 4-point type on the underside of the gear or on a DC converter that you plug directly into a power outlet or that comes in two parts with a block between the adapter to your device and a standard AC outlet cord. The numbers you are looking for are either DC voltage and amperage, like 12 volts and 1.5 amps, or total wattage, like 18 watts.

Add up these quantities, and that can let you use planning tools to find the right unit. For instance, APC offers an extended runtime chart that lists wattage and runtime for each of its units. You can also use a calculator on the site in which you add devices or watts and it provides a guide to which units to purchase and how much time each could operate at that load.

For most combinations of gear and affordable units, you should be able to keep network equipment running for at least an hour entirely on battery power. Spend more or purchase multiple units, and you could boost that to two to eight hours.

Your goal here is to make sure all your devices that need to continue running have enough power to do so across a short outage and to shut down—preferably automatically—during any outage that lasts more than a few minutes.

There are two separate power issues to consider: the electrical load that devices connected to the UPS’s battery-backed outlets add up to, and the capacity of the internal battery on the UPS, which determines how long power can flow at a given attached load. (The outlets only protected against power surges have a far higher power load limit that computer equipment won’t exceed.)

Start by calculating the total wattage for all the equipment you’re going to connect, just like with network gear. Most hardware will show a single number for watts or a maximum watts consumed; if it only shows amperes (or amps), multiple 120 (for volts) times the amps listed to get watts. In my office, I have an iMac, an external display, a USB hub, and two external hard drives. That adds up to about 250W.

With that number, you can examine the maximum load on a UPS, which is often perplexingly listed using either volt-amperes (VA) and watts or both. Although volts times amps and watts should be equal,

In practice, you can still add up all your devices in watts, and use that as a gauge to find a UPS that exceeds that amount by some margin: you can’t exceed the UPS load factor with your equipment, or it won’t function. (If a UPS is rated only in VA, multiply that number by a power factor of 0.6 or 60% to get the bottom level in watts.)

With that number in hand, you can then look over the runtime available on models that can support your total load, consulting the figures, charts, or calculators noted above that manufacturers provide to estimate how many minutes you get on battery-only power.

With my iMac set up above of 250W, I have several options in the $100 to $150 range that have a power load maximum far above that number and which can provide five or more minutes of runtime.

It’s also critical to pick a UPS model that includes a USB connection to your desktop computer, along with compatible software for your operating system. While macOS and Windows have built in power-management options that can automatically recognize compatible UPS hardware, you might want additional software to tweak UPS settings (like alarm sounds) or to provide detailed reports and charts on power quality and incidents.

The OS power-management tools and software from UPS makers give you options to create safe, automatic shutdown conditions. You can define a scenario like, “If the outage lasts more than three minutes or if the battery’s power is less than 50 percent, begin an immediate safe shutdown.”

It’s also important to be sure that all your running apps can exit without losing data and not halt the shutdown. For instance, an unsaved Word file might prevent Windows from completing a shutdown. In macOS, the Terminal app refuses to quit by default if there’s an active remote session, but it can be configured to ignore that.

We’re in the process of reviewing several uninterruptible power supplies and will update this stories with links to those reviews as we finish them. Stay tuned.

The Integrity Pro UPS Series is designed from the ground up to incorporate itself flawlessly and reliably into any environment. It is engineered to provide constant, uninterrupted power for sophisticated computer loads in medical, retail, diagnostic, and office I.T. settings. Ensuring your electronic systems are fully protected with our industry-leading power quality technology.

When I turn on my Windows 10 desktop (a Dell XPS 8920 Desktop), and after the latest Windows Update I get a black screen. There is no splash logo or anything - the screen is completely black at all times. When powered on the computer starts up, then I can hear after 17 seconds (I timed it) that it reboots, and the process repeats endlessly.

I"ve discovered that I can get into the BIOS screen if I press F12 as the computer"s restarting. I can"t see that I"m in BIOS because the screen stays black but it seems clear to me that I am, because I get predictable outcomes by pressing certain keys (e.g. If I press F10 to save and exit the BIOS, I can hear the computer make a restarting noise). However, restoring the BIOS to factory defaults doesn"t fix anything.

After I called out a repairman in relation to the problem, the repairman has suggested to me that the problem was caused by a power outage during a Windows Update, which has then corrupted the motherboard, and that the solution is therefore to replace the motherboard.

The power outage was caused by a tradesman turning off the power at the mains when the computer was being updated. I am also using a surge protected powerboard so I doubt that a power surge is the issue. I also have now seen that the computers fails a POST test even with the GPU replaced, and it also did not beep when the CMOS battery was removed and put back in place.

Update: After the motherboard was replaced the screen started working, although now the system does not seem to recognize Windows anymore. The current plan is that I"ll be given a replacement SSD (as with all the service and parts so far, I"m not being charged for this) and instructed just to install Windows again.

One of the largest producers of PTACs (Packaged Terminal Air Conditioners) is Amana, known for producing some of the most reliable PTAC units around. However, like any other appliance, these units sometimes develop issues.

Depending on what’s wrong with an Amana PTAC unit, the fastest way to solve the problem is to reset the system. Keep reading for a step-by-step to troubleshooting and resetting an Amana PTAC device.

Thanks to clever innovation, you can troubleshoot your Amana PTAC unit without any tools or technical skills. These air conditioning units come with a self-diagnosis feature that you can activate at any time.

When you put your PTAC unit in diagnostic mode, it scans for errors and displays a unique code. Using the error code as a pointer, you can determine if a manual reset will get your PTAC unit working smoothly.

If you follow the method above correctly, your air conditioner unit should be in self-diagnostic mode. To make sure, spot a red dot flashing in the corner of the screen.

Typically, the PTAC’s display screen has numbers indicating the temperature of the room. While in diagnostic mode, dashes (- -) will replace these numbers. You may also notice a green light in the bottom left corner of your device’s touchpad.

If the dashes are still in place, it means the system is unable to detect the error. Therefore, the system may not work smoothly even if you reset the Amana PTAC unit. It may be best to call in an air conditioner repair technician.

After troubleshooting your Amana air conditioner using the self-diagnostic feature, the device will display an error code. We can group these codes into four categories:

System modes point to errors in the operating framework of your Amana PTAC unit. Typically, you can fix them by changing some settings or the location of the PTAC unit.

The error code “On” indicates the unit works in tandem with a wired thermostat instead of a wireless system. Simply change the configuration settings to the proper mode to alleviate this error.

This kicks in to prevent components from freezing and suffering damage. To exit Freeze Protection, move the unit to an area where the temperature is over 43℉.

The “HP” error code is an indication that the Amana PTAC is in danger of overheating. In this situation, the device goes into Heat Sentinel mode to prevent damage to essential parts.

This error code means the device’s service board has the wrong configuration. The best way to fix the “Eo” error code on your Amana PTAC unit is to reset the system manually. The device will go back to its default configuration settings and should work smoothly.

“LS” means Load Shedding. It means the electric heat, as well as the compressor, is in the off position. To exit Load Shedding mode, turn on the LS switch.

Refrigeration errors indicate there is a fault with your PTAC’s refrigeration or cooling system. If your device shows any of the error codes below, you may need to call in a refrigerator repair expert,

Any of these codes are a signal that your device’s indoor coils are starting to freeze. Applying a manual reset to this situation won’t get your Amana PTAC device working smoothly.

The “C6” error code indicates an overall poor system performance. It means multiple parts of your PTAC air conditioner are in bad condition. Check the state of the compressor, blower motor, and other electrical components.

This error code is an extension of the freeze warning for the indoor coils. “C7” signifies the unit is automatically locking the controls for safety reasons.

The operation of the average air conditioner works due to principles of airflow. If you encounter any of the following error codes while troubleshooting your PTAC unit, you’re dealing with airflow issues.

Error code “L6” means that outgoing air is too hot for the Amana device to work normally. The best fix to this error code is making sure the air filters are clean.

This error code is a sign of a more significant issue with the condenser fans. It means the outdoor thermistor (red) is getting too hot for the system to work correctly. If the fan is working properly, you can fix this problem by cleaning the condenser coils.

“C2” means the device is recirculating the air present inside the room. When this happens, the device will be unable to cool the space adequately. You may also have air integrity issues.

This category of error codes means a particular component has completely stopped working. The only way to fix these error codes is by replacing the damaged part.

“F1” is indicative of a double failure. It may be that the indoor thermistor (black) is getting readings outside the normal range and that the wireless thermostat is no longer working.

With this error code, the indoor thermistor (black) is working fine. However, the wireless thermostat is no longer working. You’ll need to call in an air conditioning repair expert to fix it.

It indicates an outright failure of the Indoor Discharge Thermistor (yellow). Most likely, the thermistor is above or below the standard operating tolerance.

Heating issues may be due to a bad thermostat or low voltage. If the internal overload control is in the on position, your PTAC unit won’t heat the room properly.

It’s possible to fix some of the issues above with a simple manual reset. There is no one rest button, but it is still a straightforward process. Here’s a step-by-step to resetting your PTAC unit manually:

Depending on the fault, a simple manual reset may help get your unit working properly again. And if you find yourself in need of a new or refurbished Amana PTAC, we’d be happy to help you find the right one for you here at PTAC4Less!

What can you do? The trick is to determine what the source of the noise is. Noise can be introduced into your system from a number of sources. This is especially true if you have an amplifier. The type of noise you"re hearing can help determine the cause.

Read over this article for some hints and explanations of what can cause noise in your system. Use it as a checklist, eliminating possibilities until you find the culprit. You can also use this

And don’t forget – if you purchased your gear from Crutchfield, don"t hesitate to call on our tech support team (have your Crutchfield invoice handy).

Improper ground is one of the biggest causes for introducing noise into your audio system. Is the ground wire located near a noise source (like a heater, air conditioner, or computer)? Is the ground wire actually connected to the vehicle"s ground? Since the antenna lead can act as a ground (thereby enabling a new receiver to operate without its ground wire properly connected), the antenna lead is frequently the source of noise problems.

Unplug the antenna. If the noise goes away, try an antenna noise suppressor (like American International"s AS100). This filter plugs in-line between your receiver and your antenna, breaking the ground path between them, thus preventing noise from entering your system.

If the noise isn’t coming in through the antenna, try pulling the receiver from the dash while a CD is playing. If the noise goes away, it"s being radiated into your system due to the receiver"s proximity to a noise producer (like a heater motor or car computer). This is often referred to as “sideway noise.”

If the noise-causing accessory has a motor, a source noise filter can be installed on the accessory"s power lead to minimize radiated noise. If the car computer (or other motor-less accessory) is causing the problem, move your receiver"s wiring away from that accessory to minimize the radiated noise.

Try using magnetic shielding foil (also called Mu-metal) to shield the back of the receiver or wrap the wire or component that"s radiating the noise into your system.

Noise introduced through the power and ground wires connected to your receiver is called engine noise or alternator whine. If engine noise is your culprit, you may hear a whining or clicking sound. Its pitch will usually vary with engine speed.

If this is the case, you can install an alternator noise filter on the power line between the battery and the alternator to minimize the problem. You can also install a noise filter on the receiver"s power lead to cut down on signal pollution (American International"s S15A (15-amp, 250-watt) or S25A (25-amp, 350-watt) filters, for example).Most often, however, alternator noise comes from a loose or intermittent ground connection.See the section below about noise in the electrical system.

An alternator noise suppressor connects inline between the alternator and battery, and can reduce high-pitched whining noise that modulates according to engine RPMs.

An amplifier can introduce noise into your system through a bad ground or through a poor mounting. Rubber grommets or feet can help isolate the amplifier from the chassis of the vehicle, a potential source of noise. If all else fails, install a noise suppressor. The tricky part is figuring out which step or steps to take. Please read the rest of this section and try some of the simple tests.

Is it near something that could be radiating noise, like a rear-mounted tuner or computer? If so, unbolt it and move it away to see if the noise stops. Remove your patch cables. If you still hear noise, check to see if your amp is isolated from the vehicle"s chassis. Any contact between your amp"s metal casing and your vehicle"s body could cause noise problems.

Is it securely attached to the vehicle"s chassis with a good contact to clean metal? Your ground wire should ideally be 18" long at most — a longer ground wire can cause noise problems. Improper grounding causes most system noise problems.

If you have an external amplifier in your system, the first thing to do is to quiet any system noise, which sounds like a constant, low hiss. First, check for system noise with the engine off. Insert a CD and put your CD player on pause. Listen to the system with the volume way down, then way up. Put on music. If you hear hiss or static in either instance, reduce the gain on your amplifier.

Pass more signal from the receiver to the amp by leaving the receiver"s volume higher before you set the amp"s gain. Experiment until you eliminate the hiss or reduce it as much as possible. A tiny bit of hiss is okay — you won"t hear it while driving.

Noise can be picked up by the RCA patch cables connecting your components. To test this, detach the cables from your amp. Insert one side (left or right) of a spare patch cable into the amp"s left and right input jacks (see illustration below). Turn on your system and engine.

If the noise is gone, reconnect the cables to the amp, and disconnect them from your receiver. If you hear the noise, your patch cables are definitely picking it up. Try re-routing them. Separate them from your power cable by at least 18 inches. You could try a better brand of patch cables. The inexpensive RCA cables many people use to connect their components don"t have the insulation or conductivity necessary to deflect noise in a metallic, highly conductive automobile.

How much noise your cable receives depends largely on the size of its “loop area” — the larger the loop area, the more vulnerable your cable is to induced interference. A cable"s loop area is equal to the distance between its center conductor and outer shield times the length of one complete twist in a twisted pair configuration, or the entire length of the cable in a coaxial type. Consider trading your old cable for one with a twisted pair design. You"ll get a smaller loop area and less noise.

As a last resort, a ground loop isolator (like PAC"s SNI-1) can be installed between the receiver"s preamp outputs and your amp to minimize this problem.

We discussed ground cables above, because that’s the cause of noise more often than not. If the noise wasn’t due to a poor ground or through the stereo’s antenna cable, it may be coming in through the amplifier"s main power cable. Noise can be created by cable of insufficient gauge, so you might try thicker cable.

Multiple amplifiers can also create ground loop problems, which can usually be solved by grounding each amplifier with its own separate wire. If you are unable to locate the cause, a ground loop isolator (like PAC"s SNI-1) can be installed between the receiver"s preamp outputs and the amplifiers to minimize this problem.

Noise can also come in through the speaker wires. To test them, turn the system off and disconnect the speaker wires from