lcd screen bezel macbook pro free sample

Affected devices were sold between October 2016 and February 2018. Apple or an Apple Authorized Service Provider will service affected MacBook Pro units, free of charge.

To identify your computer"s model and to see if it is eligible for this program, choose Apple () menu > About This Mac. Eligible models are listed below.

Please choose one of the options below for service. Your MacBook Pro will be examined prior to any service to verify that it is eligible for this program.

Note: If your MacBook Pro has any damage which impairs the service, that issue will need to be repaired first. In some cases, there may be a cost associated with the repair.

The program covers eligible MacBook Pro models for 5 years after the first retail sale of the unit or 3 years from the start date of this program, whichever is longer.

The MacBook Air was first released in 2008, so there are a lot of models in the wild that might need their screens replaced. The cost of the repair will depend on the model of the MacBook Air, as well as the problem it is having with its screen. Below I will cover the most common models I see for repair and the cost of repairing each model. I have been repairing MacBook Air screens since the beginning, and after repairing a few thousand screens personally, I can confidently say I am an expert Mac screen repair tech.

How much does it cost to replace a MacBook Air screen? The cost to replace a MacBook Air screen is $299 for most models. The A1466 model is $179, while the A1932 and A1279 models are $299. The A2337 model is $299 for the LCD or $429 for the entire display.

This was the longest-running design for the screen on the MacBook Air. All the different models within these years are compatible with the same LCD panels. The cost seems to be coming down on the screen repairs for these A1369 and A1466 models. The cost to repair the screen on a 2010-2017 MacBook Air is $179. This will cover the LCD panel itself, the labor to install it, and the shipping to get the computer back to you.

Apple finally did a complete rebuild on the MacBook Air in 2018 and created a new model number A1932. The newer model has a redesigned display assembly that utilizes a different LCD panel and overall build than the prior 7 years of MacBook Air models. The cost to repair the screen of a 2018-2019 MacBook Air is $299.

The 2020-2021 MacBook Air looks basically identical to the 2018-2019 model, but the new model requires a different LCD panel than the older version of the laptop. There are actually 2 variations on this LCD panel. One is used for the intel-based models, and the other is used for the M1 models. I expect these LCD panels will be one of the harder-to-get models as it was only used for a single model of production.

The cost to replace a cracked LCD panel on an M1 2020 model A2337 MacBook Air is $299. If you would like to have the entire display assembly replaced with a genuine Apple display assembly, the .

Apple once again created an entirely new model with a completely redesigned screen in 2022 with their M2 MacBook Air. This new model hasn’t been out long enough for us to see what the price will end up being once the LCD panel is available on its own. For now, the cost to replace the full display assembly on the 2022 MacBook Air is $450-$750.

There are multiple parts in a display assembly, and chances are they do not all need to be replaced in order to get your computer fully working again. Knowing the basic parts that are required to complete your MacBook screen repair will help you select the correct repair for your needs.

The LCD panel is the part of the screen that displays the image, it is the part of the screen that you can touch when the computer is open. This is the most commonly broken part on a MacBook Air screen. If you have a cracked screen, there is a very big chance that what you need is an LCD replacement.

The display assembly is the entire top half of the computer. It includes the LCD panel, the back housing where the Apple logo is, the clutch cover along the bottom of the screen where it says “MacBook Air”, the iSight camera, and the hinges. If there are any bends or dents on the corners of your display, you will likely need to replace the entire display assembly.

The clutch cover runs along the bottom of the MacBook screen. It is the part that says “MacBook Air” on it. Sometimes I see clutch covers that are cracked or broken while the LCD panel itself is working fine! This means the computer works perfectly and the entire screen is visible and working, but there is a crack along the bottom of the screen in the part that says “MacBook Air” on it. If this is the issue you have, you just need a clutch cover replacement rather than an LCD replacement.

The MacBook Air camera almost never has an issue. If the camera does stop responding, the issue is almost always with the logic board inside your computer rather than the camera itself. Sometimes though, the cameras will fail and require replacement. Unfortunately with the way these MacBook Airs are assembled, you usually have to replace the LCD panel when you replace the camera.

The back housing is sometimes referred to as the “lid”. It is the part that has the Apple logo on it. Usually, the housing does not need to be replaced, but if there is a dent on the corner of the housing, a dent on the housing itself, or if liquid damage is present in the housing, then you will need the housing replaced as well as the LCD. Again, because of the way these are assembled you normally can’t replace just the housing by itself.

The hinges are exactly what they sound like, the hinge where the display meets the computer. Older model Macs from the 2006-2012 era sometimes had hinges that would crack or break and cause the display to not stay up properly. That is much rarer on the MacBook Airs, but it can happen. Some models require an entire display replacement in order to replace the hinges, while others you can replace separately. Because Apple routes cables through the hinges, you usually have to replace the entire display assembly if you have issues with the hinges.

There are a few different things you should consider when looking for a screen repair on a MacBook Air. There are many shops to choose from nowadays that offer screen repair services for Mac computers. Making a good choice for the screen repair can be the difference between getting an affordable quality repair, and an expensive repair that doesn’t last as long as it should.

What is the shop’s policy on data privacy? Make sure you’re comfortable with how your personal information will be treated. Some repairs require the technician to log in to your computer during the repair process, while other repairs do not.

What is the turnaround time for the repair? Some shops take longer than others to repair your computer. I have an entire article on turnaround time for the A1466 MacBook Air.

Take your time to research and choose a computer repair shop that you feel good about. With a little effort, you can find a great shop that will take care of your MacBook screen repair needs.

Rossmanngroup – I have known the owner (Louise) since we were both newbies in the repair space. His shop provides great work at an affordable price. They are based in New York.

TCRS – I have asked for Tim’s help on logic board repairs many times over the past decade. He does not necessarily specialize in screen repair, but his shop is a great choice if you need logic board-level repairs. They are based in SoCal.

As I said, there are thousands to choose from, so do some research on the ones you are interested in and I am sure you can find a good repair shop to complete your MacBook screen repair.

If you have a MacBook Air that is not covered under AppleCare+, you will spend between $450 and $650 repairing your screen through Apple. There are a couple of different ways that the display repair is billed, so the price you are quoted will vary, but these are the standard quotes. Note that each damage tier is added to by a labor charge, which is usually $100. So a Tier 1 repair is usually about $280 for the MacBook Air + a $100 labor charge.

Tier 3 Accidental Damage covers the display as well as other components that are damaged, as long as the logic board is still working properly. This tier is usually $530 +labor at the Apple Store.

AppleCare+ does partially cover the cost of repairing a cracked screen on a MacBook Air. When you buy your computer, you are given the option to purchase AppleCare+. If you decide to purchase AppleCare+ and crack your screen, the total for the repair will be $99.

Repair cost through Best Buy is generally the same as through the Apple store. Best Buy usually charges around $450-$650 for MacBook Air screen repair.

In June of 2019, Best Buy became an Apple Authorized Service Provider. This means they have a relationship with Apple so they can order parts from Apple directly, and repair devices that are covered under Applecare.

Their actual repair capabilities on the store level seem to vary from store to store, but all the Best Buys in my area do not have Mac technicians in the actual store. They do have iPhone technicians and offer screen repair for iPhones (sometimes same-day repairs are available). But for Mac repair, they ship the computer out to be repaired and then have it shipped back to the store after repair.

When they do send a MacBook out for service, they are actually sending it to the same repair depots that the Apple Store does. They quote a marginally higher turnaround time than Apple (about 2 weeks). But generally have the computer back a little quicker than that.

UBreakiFix is not an Apple Authorized Service Provider. I do not know if they offer a genuine Apple screen (they could be utilizing Apple’s new self-repair program as I do for certain repairs), but I do know that their price for the 2020 M1 MacBook Air “starts at 479.99”. In order to get an exact quote, you have to bring your computer in for their free diagnosis.

The MacBook Air LCD replacement process is one that I don’t recommend for a beginner to an intermediate-level technician to attempt. It is best to start practicing with bad screens before moving on to these repairs. They are delicate and you can cause all kinds of problems during the repair by scratching backlight sheets or ripping cables under the LCD panel.

The display assembly replacement is a lot easier and can be completed by somebody with some technical repair experience. Apple has a self-repair program that covers the A2337 model MacBook Air. You can read about the program and get links in my 2020 M1 MacBook Air screen replacement guide.

I will say I have seen a lot of damaged screens when people attempt to repair the LCD panel on a MacBook Air themselves. Normally the damage is not fixable and you have to then replace the entire display assembly. I have a troubleshooting page for the A1466 MacBook Air if you have attempted a repair and ran into problems.

If you are experienced enough to complete the repair, you can find the panels on public sites like iFixit, eBay, Amazon, etc. As a shop, you will probably want to work with your vendor to get panels that have a guarantee so you can hold them in stock. The price for panels usually ranges from around $100 to about $400 for the newest model. Generally, the panels decrease in price with time, but sometimes if an LCD panel is not used frequently by apple, they will become rare and cost more over time for new ones.

I have put together a few guides on how to replace the LCD yourself. I currently have a 2010-2017 display and LCD replacement guide available. I also have started working on an A2337 display replacement guide that is still a work in progress. I am also working on making video guides for screen repair and hope to have those posted by the March of 2023.

The cost to replace a MacBook Air screen is $299 for most models. The A1466 model is $179, while the A1932 and A1279 models are $299. The A2337 model is $299 for the LCD or $429 for the entire display.

You can repair a MacBook Air Screen yourself, but it requires special tools. The repair is considered to be a moderately difficult repair, so I don’t recommend trying to do it yourself unless you have some experience in repairing electronics.

Apple will replace the MacBook screen for free if there are no cracks or physical damage present, but the laptop must be under warranty or AppleCare+. Sometimes screens will stop working on their own, and these types of problems will be covered under your warranty.

Apple charges between $450 and $650 to replace a MacBook Air screen if it is not under warranty. If you have AppleCare+, the cost to replace the screen through Apple is $99.

This is a great question to discuss with the shop you are thinking of doing the repair. Most of the time the answer is yes, it is worth repairing a MacBook Air screen if the MacBook Air is useful to you. The cost of the repair usually decreases with time, so older MacBook Airs will cost less to repair than newer MacBook Airs.

AppleCare+ generally does not cover a cracked screen completely. Rather it covers all but $99 of the screen replacement service. If there is liquid damage involved, then the charge is $299.

After looking at the performance of Apple"s M1 Pro SoC powering the new MacBook Pro 16, and beyond reviewing the laptop itself, there"s another interesting component in this laptop that"s worth looking into, and that"s the mini-LED 120Hz display. So today we"re going to take a closer look at what Apple is doing with their brand new screen.

As you"re fully aware, we have a lot of experience testing and reviewing displays, however we mostly cover gaming monitors not laptop displays, so this is going to be a little different. We"re going to run through some tests and provide our thoughts on how good this display is as someone that looks at lots and lots of displays each year.

There are two versions of the new MacBook Pro and we"ve got the 16-inch version, although the 14-inch model"s display is very similar just smaller and with a different resolution. Apple calls this particular display a "Liquid Retina XDR display" which is typical Apple marketing speak. If I translate this into what Apple actually means, they are giving you a high resolution full array local dimming mini-LED LCD with true HDR functionality.

If we dive deeper into the specs, the 16.2-inch panel has a resolution of 3456 x 2234 which continues Apple"s tradition of using non-standard resolutions across their line-up. Apple doesn"t disclose the exact technology used here, but it"s an LCD panel which appears to be IPS-like in design. The backlight has 10,000 mini-LEDs for impressive zone density at this size, allowing for a contrast ratio of 1,000,000:1 and peak brightness up to 1,600 nits in the HDR mode on paper.

As for refresh rate, Apple are offering up to 120Hz with adaptive sync, which they"ve rebranded into "ProMotion" although this sort of functionality has been available for many years now in other laptops and displays. The combination of everything though is a first, and the only rivals to this sort of panel are the latest wave of 4K OLED panels seen in a few high-end Windows laptops.

Obviously, a big talking point has been including a notch in the display. Apple claims this was necessary to decrease bezel size and increase the display real estate while retaining the webcam at the top, though I"m not so sure that"s true. The notch is absolutely massive relative to the size of the camera and sensors, and looks kind of ridiculous. I mean, surely this could have been smaller? But at least I"m glad Apple didn"t put the webcam below the display.

The MacBook Pro"s display is a wide gamut display with 99% coverage of the DCI-P3 color space. That"s an excellent result for any creator looking to produce content in that gamut. This also means perfect sRGB coverage, so if you"re designing web content, creating SDR videos, or working with wide gamut HDR videos then Apple is providing you the tools to do that.

Unfortunately the performance outside these gamuts is not great, specifically what"s missing is Adobe RGB coverage which is relevant for photography work. Due to covering P3 fully we do get over 90% Adobe RGB coverage, but it"s missing the top range of greens that differentiate Adobe RGB from other color spaces, so this laptop isn"t suitable for that sort of work. Apple also knows this, because they don"t provide an Adobe RGB color profile, while you do get various P3 and Rec. 709 profiles.

Where the MacBook Pro"s display ends up in terms of color gamut is typical for a modern "creator" laptop, the majority of top-end laptop displays have really good coverage of sRGB and P3. Where it falls a little short is in that Adobe RGB coverage, and a competing display like the Samsung OLED you get in devices such as the Gigabyte Aero 15 OLED does offer a wider color gamut with full Adobe RGB coverage. That"s not to say the MacBook Pro"s gamut is bad or anything, it"s just not as wide or as versatile as I"ve seen.

Where the display is extremely impressive is in its color calibration, and this is helped significantly by macOS doing a much better job of color management than Windows. The various color profiles included by default work across far more apps in macOS than they would on Windows and this is one area where Windows needs a bit of an overhaul.

If we look at the options provided in the MacBook Pro"s display settings, you"ll find quite a few options including Apple Display and Apple XDR Display presets, along with a decent array of creator focused modes for gamuts like BT.709, sRGB and P3. Apple also offers True Tone and Night Shift functionality, which some people might find useful but ultimately hurt color accuracy. I"ve disabled True Tone for testing.

When looking at the default Apple Display profile, performance is pretty good by default. When displaying sRGB content in this mode, it"s quite likely color management will activate in the app you"re using to display the content correctly and accurately, instead of oversaturating it up to the full P3 gamut of the screen. When looking at saturation sweeps as an example, we find excellent deltaE performance, and good results in ColorChecker as well, especially around skin tones which are crucial to get right.

Based on this you should probably just leave your MacBook in the Apple Display mode for everyday use as it"s accurate enough for sRGB content and will also let you benefit from wide gamuts where needed. The performance in the Apple Display XDR mode is similar as well for SDR content, so that"s an option if you want to also use HDR at times.

If you want even better color accuracy, Apple"s included profiles might be for you. For example, the built-in sRGB mode is even better at displaying sRGB content, with accuracy equivalent to performing a full calibration yourself.

I suspect the reason why this mode is better than the default mode is that it"s specifically tailored to showing sRGB content, rather than the more general default mode that is designed for use in multiple scenarios. Color management is hard and creating specific modes for each gamut is generally the best approach, so it"s great Apple has done this for you.

There is a downside to these modes, and that"s locked brightness. Now technically each of these color specifications do stipulate a brightness level for mastering: sRGB is 80 nits, DCI-P3 is 48 nits and Rec. 709 is 100 nits - and the MacBook Pro gets this right.

However that limits the usefulness of these modes for viewing content, where the mastering brightness level is less relevant and your ambient conditions are more important. I"d like to see a brightness override toggle, so that each of these modes is still useful for mastering, but can also deliver the best accuracy for watching other content. That would improve the versatility of the display and give you the ability to fine tune accuracy beyond the already very good default mode.

In the regular Apple Display mode for viewing SDR content, I measured peak brightness at around 520 nits, with a variable black level. Bizarrely, the MacBook Pro appears to change its black level limit in the SDR mode depending on the ambient light conditions, even with True Tone disabled. In a lit room, the black level was capped to 0.02 nits, delivering around a 26,000:1 contrast ratio.

In any case, the mini-LED backlight is active at all times, even in SDR content, to improve the contrast ratio in SDR scenes. There are so many zones here that it"s unlikely you"ll spot much blooming in practice, I found it negligible for SDR use even in tricky desktop apps with harsh edges between light and dark areas. The dimming algorithm is tweaked nicely to avoid this situation and there are simply more than enough zones to prevent lingering issues. This sort of attention to detail is what I"d love to see more in the standalone monitor space, along with higher zone counts, of course.

In the HDR mode, brightness is extremely impressive. There"s no major difference between sustained and peak brightness, so there"s no automatic brightness limiter that activates after a short period to dim the screen in intensely bright scenes. Brightness is as high as 1670 nits at small window sizes, and over 1500 nits at 50%, before dropping to around 1150 nits for a full screen sustained white window. That"s impressive, although it does come with a corresponding increase to power consumption, so running the display at over 1000 nits all the time isn"t advisable on battery.

This performance also destroys basically any other LCD based monitor I"ve looked at before. On the standalone monitor side, it"s virtually unheard of right now to see LCD zone counts higher than a couple of thousand. This limits worse case contrast to around 12,000:1 in the case of the 2,000-zone Samsung Odyssey Neo G9 with VA technology, or just 4,000:1 in a checkerboard test.

Apple choosing to use 5-10x the zone count massively improves the achievable contrast ratio in tricky situations and I"d say this amount of zones - and the density of zones - is what is required as a minimum for the best HDR experience with an LCD panel. Even Apple"s own ridiculously overpriced Pro Display XDR doesn"t compare as it has a paltry 576-zone backlight and it was criticized at launch for poor blooming compared to professional level HDR mastering displays. The MacBook Pro"s display will be far better for producing HDR content, aside from the small size.

So from one perspective it"s easily one of the best LCD-based HDR experiences I"ve seen, but on the other hand it isn"t a self-lit panel like an OLED which is completely free of blooming and in some situations OLED still delivers better HDR. Of course, OLEDs have other drawbacks such as lower brightness levels and the risk of burn in so I can understand why Apple would opt for LCD instead. Besides this one complaint though the HDR experience is excellent, especially for a laptop.

Unfortunately there is a major drawback to the Liquid Retina XDR display used on the new MacBook Pros, and that"s the motion performance. While it"s nice to see Apple upgrade the refresh rate to 120Hz compared to the 60Hz they were using previously, the display being used here doesn"t have the appropriate level of response times to keep up with that 120Hz refresh rate. The panel is actually very, very slow, which is a disappointment.

I was hoping to provide a full breakdown of motion performance using the standard graphs we use for monitor reviews... until I realized that my response testing tool doesn"t work on macOS and even creating one graph manually to a decent level of accuracy with all the transitions would have taken an entire day.

In a full black to full white transition, gamma corrected as per our current test methodology, the MacBook Pro"s display is exceptionally slow, taking nearly 100ms to complete this rise. Even if we apply exceptionally generous tolerances and only measure 60% of the total transition time, it still takes 39ms to transition, which is one of the worst results I"ve ever measured.

This is exacerbated by using a combination of IPS-like LCD technology, and an always-active mini-LED backlight, noting that both the LCD layer and mini-LED need to change to transition fully.

Luckily full transition fall times aren"t as horrific, though still reasonably poor at over 15ms even with our very generous 20% tolerance. The real transition time is more like 35ms, so less than half that of the rise time, but far slower than most other LCDs out there. The best laptop grade OLED panels can perform these transitions in under 2ms with the same test conditions, making them an order of magnitude faster.

I tested a few more transitions of varying degrees and typically the MacBook Pro would fall between 20 and 40ms, though luckily there is no overshoot to speak of. When viewing UFO test results, you can see the product of these horrific response times: a substantial blur trail behind moving objects. Even though the panel can feel somewhat smooth to use because it has a moderate refresh rate of 120Hz, the actual clarity in motion is terrible and this impacts the usefulness of the higher refresh rate.

Right next the MacBook Pro we have the Aero 15 OLED"s panel which has half the refresh rate at just 60Hz, but massively faster response times. You"ll see here that even though the MacBook Pro"s display is twice as fast in refresh rate, the extremely slow response behavior limits motion clarity to more like a 60Hz monitor or worse. The level of smearing is insane and I"m not sure how a modern LCD could end up this slow, Apple really should have experimented with some sort of overdrive.

Now, all Apple fans are probably sitting here annoyed that I"m criticizing the display for motion performance because the MacBook Pro isn"t a gaming laptop. And they"re right, it"s not a gaming laptop. But motion performance is relevant beyond gaming, it impacts things as basic as scrolling through websites or even watching videos. Fast moving video content like sports is affected due to slow transition times, and scrolling through text can show really bad ghosting trails, especially with white text on a black background. But really anything on this display that moves, especially stuff that moves fast, can quickly become a blur fest.

There is no doubt that the MacBook Pro"s Liquid Retina XDR display is excellent for content creation. It has perfect P3 color gamut coverage and outstanding factory calibration, with particular attention to detail paid to multiple color specifications for mastering.

Apple provides many different profiles that are all above average to great in terms of accuracy, and this should provide peace of mind that if they are using this display in one of those color spaces, everything is looking correct as it should. macOS also helps here, thanks to superior color management than Windows.

The Liquid Retina XDR display has impressive HDR specifications and performance. A mini-LED backlight zone count of 10,000 is the star of the show in this respect, significantly reducing blooming compared to other LCD-based HDR monitors, and providing exceptionally high brightness. The level of performance is good enough for both enthusiast level mastering and HDR playback, so the MacBook Pro is a great device for video editing on the go when you also factor in its overall performance.

A few nitpicks aside, the major downside to the display is motion performance. This display is exceptionally slow even for an LCD, despite packing a 120Hz refresh rate. This affects areas including web browsing and any work with text as you scroll through content, and blur trails can be visible across a wide range of use cases, not just gaming. It"s not bad enough to negate the benefits you get elsewhere, but Apple needs to put a lot of work into optimizing how quickly their panels transition. I also feel the lack of HDMI 2.1 on the MacBook Pro is a bit puzzling, going HDMI 2.0 for external monitors (in addition to Thunderbolt) is a bit annoying.

Now comes the ultimate question: is this the best laptop display ever, as Apple claims it is? That will depend on your perspective. Evidently, if you"re buying a high-performance laptop for gaming then no, but the MacBook Pro is clearly not suited nor aimed at gamers. But if we put that aside and ask about the best display for content creation and productivity, we think Apple has a solid claim to that throne.

The only real competition right now are OLED panels, which come with their own set of strengths and weaknesses. There are a few other mini-LED laptop options on the Windows side, like the screen you get in the Acer Predator Helios 500, but that display only has 512 zones, not the 10,000 on offer here. So it"s a battle between the MacBook and the OLEDs you see in products like the Gigabyte Aero 15 OLED.

The reasons to get an OLED display over this LCD would be in terms of its self-lit pure HDR experience with zero blooming, significantly faster response times for better motion clarity, and wider color gamut allowing for accurate work in the Adobe RGB color space as well as P3 and Rec.709. However, the drawbacks are also significant, including a 60Hz refresh rate limitation with current 4K offerings, the risk of permanent burn in, and significantly lower brightness. Actual implementations we"ve seen also lack the calibration Apple is offering.

On the balance of things, I"d prefer to get the Liquid Retina XDR in the new MacBook Pro than an OLED, especially for color-accurate content creation, and the HDR experience is close enough to OLED that I can forgive very minor blooming on occasion. I wouldn"t say Apple is miles in front with this screen, but it"s certainly very impressive and calling it the best display for production work is justified.

Before we proceed: If you’re facing intermittent horizontal lines at the bottom of your display, it’s not flexgate. Your MacBook has a faulty T-CON board. Read all about it here: MacBook Pro: Horizontal lines on Screen? 2016-2017 Model

This design flaw primarily afflicts the MacBook Pro 2016 and 2017 models. Both 13 inch and 15 inch models are affected.A1707 - MacBook Pro (15-inch, 2016-17, Touchbar model)

Up until 2015, the MacBook display controller or logic board used to be tucked inside the hinge cover at the bottom of the display. It was part of the “lid”, so the wire connecting to it ran inside the hinge cover and was never moved or disturbed.

The flex/ribbon contains multiple cables. Usually the backlight cable gives way first, causing various backlight related faults. The damage progresses in stages:When the cable hasn’t broken but just some connection lines are worn off, it manifests as the stage light effect.

Step 2: Quietly introduce a “fix” in the subsequent model. Apple discreetly increased the length of the flex cable in 2018 model MacBooks. Just by ~2mm. This would reduce the stress on the cable, thereby reducing chances of damage. Thus Apple tried fixing an issue they hadn’t acknowledged in the first place. Note: Jury is still out on whether this fix solves the problem or just delays the eventual failure. In our experience at Fixxo, 2018-19 models continue to face flex cable issues, however not in as large numbers.

Step 3: Introduce a replacement program. Finally, Apple couldn’t ignore the public backlash anymore and introduced a free display replacement program.

But wait ..  this program is valid onlyfor “13-inch MacBook Pro 2016 model”, however it is amply clear the design flaw actually impacts both 13-inch and 15-inch variants of 2016 as well as 2017 models. Well..

If yours is a 13-inch MacBook Pro 2016 model, and the purchase date is between October 2016 and February 2018, you’re eligible for Apple"s free display replacement program. Congratulations! Take it to an Apple Authorized Service Provider. There are a number of fake AASPs around, careful!.

If your MacBook isn’t eligible for the program, you’ll unfortunately need to get a paid display replacement. It isn’t cheap. A reputed non-Apple vendor may be your best bet.

Well, the cable is integrated into the screen, so it cannot be swapped out. So, the standard resolution offered is to replace the entire display panel.

At Fixxo, however, we have recently launched the flexgate repair service. We extend the backlight flex cable by micro-soldering a small piece of replacement cable onto it. It is a highly specialized and sensitive repair. So far, the results have been very encouraging, and we"ve managed to save our clients a ton of money. By the way, this is also the change that Apple basically introduced in its 2018 MacBooks.

At Fixxo, you may even consider buying a used display panel salvaged from other dead MacBooks. It’s 100% genuine and quite cost-effective. Contact Us to discuss.

Have you noticed colored lines on your MacBook screen? Unfortunately, many Mac users have experienced similar issues with their displays. The color effect may be different. For some, the whole screen becomes pink or green, and others see blue, purple, or green vertical or horizontal lines. In this article, we will explain why these screen glitches appear and how to get rid of them no matter what color you see on your screen.

As mentioned above, the issue with the lines on the Mac screen can be represented in many different forms and colors. Here are some of the examples users have reported: MacBook Pro with pink screen

This is not the complete list of all the possible color lines you might encounter on your screen. Nevertheless, they all mean that you need to address the issue with the screen immediately so it wouldn’t become a permanent problem. Here are some of the reasons that could be causing the MacBook Pro’s pink screen of death and other similar issues: Physical damage to the screen

Once we point out the reasons why your MacBook is flickering purple or showing blue/black/pink/green lines, it is time to move forward to instructions on how to get rid of them. Make sure to follow the steps and check if the lines are gone before proceeding to the next solution.

A simple restart can help with many temporary issues and system glitches. So it’s worth trying out before any other ways to fix lines on the MacBook screen.

Make sure to check for a proper connection to your screen to eliminate issues with the cable. Try to unplug the screen from the Mac and disconnect the power cable. Once connecting back, ensure that both ends are securely attached. You can also try to switch it for a new cable or use a different connection type like USB, HDMI, VGA, DVI, etc.

Trying a different display helps to identify if the issue with the lines on the MacBook screen is related to this specific display or to the computer you are using. So if you have this issue with an external display, try to connect a different one. And if you see colored lines on the laptop’s built-in screen, connect an external one to your Mac. Focus your efforts on fixing your Mac’s software and hardware issues if the problem persists on any display you connect.

SMC is responsible for power management, LED indicators, sleeping and waking up, and other similar settings required for the correct startup of your Mac. It is recommended to reset SMC if you notice a blue screen on MacBook Pro or other similar display issues.

Non-volatile random-access memory stores settings that don’t change even when you restart or shut down your Mac. Resetting NVRAM can help when you experience colored lines on the MacBook screen or flickering issues. It also includes settings needed to boot your Mac, such as startup disk selection, speaker volume, display resolution, etc.

As mentioned before, outdated or improperly installed graphic card drivers can be the reason why your MacBook screen is flickering purple or has other lines on the Mac screen. The graphic card drivers are included as a part of the macOS updates. So to update them, you need to install the latest macOS version.

This step is helpful if some software errors or glitches cause the issue with lines on the Mac screen. Reinstalling will ensure you have a clean copy of the same macOS without any previous system bugs.

Blue/pink/green/purple and other lines on the Mac screen shouldn’t be the reason to replace the computer immediately. We hope the solutions described in this article will help eliminate lines and make your screen work normally again. Always have dedicated data recovery software to ensure your data is safe no matter what issues your Mac might experience.

2 comments I’m using MacBook Air and facing similar issue where I’m seeing some pink lines on my MBA’s screen. Just wanted to ask if the above solutions are only for MBP or will they help in MBA as well? Hi Liester,

Accidental Damage is any damage due to an unintentional act that is not the direct result of a manufacturing defect or failure. Accidental damage is not covered under the standard warranty of the product. Such damage is often the result of a drop or an impact on the LCD screen or any other part of the product which may render the device non-functional. Such types of damage are only covered under an Accidental Damage service offering which is an optional add-on to the basic warranty of the product. Accidental Damage must not be confused with an occasional dead or stuck pixel on the LCD panel. For more information about dead or stuck pixels, see the Dell Display Pixel Guidelines.

No, accidental damage is covered for Dell computers or monitors which are covered under the Accidental Damage Service offering for that specific product.

The LCD glass on the display is manufactured to rigorous specifications and standards and will not typically crack or break on its own under normal use. In general, cracked, or broken glass is considered accidental damage and is not covered under the standard warranty.

Internal cracks typically occur due to excessive force on the screen. This can be the result of some object hitting the screen, a drop, attempting to close the lid while an object is on the keypad area, or even holding the laptop by its screen.

Spots typically occur due to an external force hitting the screen causing damage to the LCD panel"s backlight assembly. While the top layer did not crack or break, the underlying area was compressed and damaged causing this effect.

If your Dell laptop LCD panel has any accidental damage but the laptop is not covered by the Accidental Damage service offering, contact Dell Technical Support for repair options.

I"ve been working on a project that used a 16x2 LCD display and wanted a nice finish that also allowed me to seal against water and other liquids. I also needed impact resistance, low cost and the ability to be changed easily if worn or broken.

2) A small piece of perspex over a cut hole in the enclosure. Cheaper but not so nice finish, showing the full LCD through and any rough enclosure cutting.

3) Looking for access to a laser cutter to make a profiled perspex window that sits through the enclosure hole to sit flush with surface. Difficult tolerances and no depth control with a laser.

So, eventually I tried something else and ended up with what I think is a nice professional finish that is easy to do, cheap, and results in an iPhone type black glass frame style, with a clear window exactly the right size to show the display properly. It can also be easily adapted to any other type or size of display.

Since I"ve been getting more proficient with CADSoft Eagle, I simply used a blank BRD file with mm grid to create my drawing and print at scale on to some card.

I took the original dimensions of the 16x2 LCD display I had and drew it up, including the stand-off holes. I then added an additional 5mm surround to give my bezel additional strength around the fixing holes, and also to make it look better since the holes wouldn"t be right on the edge.

For the 16x2 LCD the display area is approx 15mm x 65mm. I made my window 14mm x 64mm so there is a slight overlap to the display so no edges can be seen.

These correspond exactly to the stand-off holes in the LCD PCB. This means we can use a single metal or plastic bolt to mount both our bezel and the LCD when finished.

Lay the piece on top of a scrap piece of timber. I used a bit of 1/4" ply. I also put a piece of the protective film underneath to stop the acrylic picking up any dust and fibres as much as possible.

We now want to spray paint the area that will be the bezel outer border. Choose your colour for this, although I used black and found it produced a lovely black glass type finish.

You can now mount the bezel to your enclosure, using the mounting holes and some 3mm bolts. The same bolts can be used to mount the LCD behind. I found 3mm x 20mm bolts are ideal. You can also use nylon ones that are used for PCB stand-offs.

If you need weather/water proofing then simply apply a thin layer of sealant under the black border outside of the stand-off hole line. When this dries in place it will form a watertight seal that can"t be seen.

This is the first instructable I have made so please take a moment to leave feedback on anything you think could be improved, or if this helped you in any way.

Awesome idea! I"m just starting on an Arduino based chess timer project with a small VFD display and a couple of those big "arcade" style microswitch buttons for my son and was thinking about how to make a decent looking hole / bezel for the display. Your instructable solved my problem elegantly! Thanks and thumbs up for you!

The types of flathead countersunk hex head bolts in the attached picture are great for such projects, especially the black bolts. I"ve used them a lot for such panels and also for mounting black items like IEC mains input sockets. They provide a fantastic finish, you just have to be careful and precise with your countersinking. Available on eBay from various sources. I use the M3 type most often but other sizes are available. I"d avoid pan-heads of a different colour on the outside as they don"t look nearly as professional as the countersunk flatheads. If you don"t want to countersink then use the button head ones, they look much nicer than the pan heads.

I"ve used the milled edge rebate technique in the past to produce a flush finish and it works great ... IF you can get someone to do the milling for you. I was lucky, I did. You don"t NEED a CNC machine but a plain old milling machine IS required for a really good accurate finish. If you have a decent pillar drill, you can use a simple cross feed milling table to do the milling with your drill. eBay has a great one for under £50 that I"m planning on getting.

However, you CAN achieve the effect by taking advantage of the ability of true perspex to be acetone welded invisibly and you build the total from the top piece that fits exactly into the cutout hole (very accurate cutting, filing and trimming is needed. Then before black painting the reverse, acetone weld a complete piece over the top piece like a layer cake. the second layer is larger than the first so provides the rebate step. It"s tricky but can be very successful. You can then black mask the rear as before.

Another trick is to use stand-offs behind the front panel, bolted to the front panel via countersunk holes at the front with the relevant bolts, then mount the operstional display etc to the stand-offs. The front bezel can then be applied OVER the countersunk bolts using double-sided adhesive or using a silicone bead as it should never need to come off again. I am using this process currently for a frequency meter display.

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All three of this year’s iPhones are expected to have the near-bezel-free design of the iPhone X, despite the fact that the cheapest one will have an LCD screen.

It’s so far been unclear how slim the bottom bezel could be when using an LCD screen instead of an OLED one, but a supply-chain report today may have the answer …

Digitimes reports that Japanese company Nichia has won sole supplier status for the backlighting system for the 6.1-inch LCD iPhone, and the reason for that is believed to be its lead in a new generation of the technology.

While LTPS-LCD smartphone screens with backlights using 0.4t LED chips have bottom bezels of 4.0-4.5mm, use of 0.3t LED chips can reduce them to 2.0-2.5mm, enhancing LCD screens’ competitiveness against OLED all (bezel-free) screens panels, the sources explained.

Packaging of 0.3t LED chips for side-view backlighting of LTPS-LCD smartphone panels is more difficult in accuracy and stability than that of 0.4t LED chips, the sources noted, adding Nichia began trial production of 0.3t LED chips for use in high-end smartphone models launched by China- and Japan-based vendors in the first half of 2018.

Given the room needed for other tech, it’s still likely that the LCD model will have slightly thicker bezels than the OLED ones, but the difference should be pretty small. Ben Geskin recently posted renders said to be based on leaked schematics (above).

Taiwan-based Epistar and China-based Sanan Optoelectronics are poised to produce 0.3t LED chips, while Taiwan-based LED packaging service providers Everlight Electronics and Unity Opto Technology as well as China-based fellow makers Foshan Nationstar Optoelectronics and Shenzhen Refound Optoelectronics are capable of packaging 0.3t LED chips for side-view backlighting, the sources said.

Shenzhen Jiayida Technology Co., Ltd is founded in 2005 year, is a production, sales and service of foreign trade company. We have been professional in tablet & laptop touch screen, lcd & led screen, lcd assembly for over 10 years. Our company is located in huaqiang north where is called ”The Asia’s largest electronic market” in shenzhen ,china. We have a group of high-quality elite team, rich business experience, and have regional partners in China. With the principle of “Customer First, Credit Most Important” our company promise to supply customer not only high-quality products but also perfect service. With strong and professional sale and service philosophy, our products has been exported to more than 100 countries and regions and we has been established a long-term cooperative relationship with our customers.

As explained on this thread: "Remember that the problem can be on the logic board and not the screen-- meaning you can have a logic board that works with external monitor and not the internal screen-- but to no fault of the screen. So inspect the logic board LVDS connector carefully with a loupe to see if it has any signs of visible damage like liquid shorting out or melting plastic connectors."

A friend managed to rescue his MacBook Pro by spending hours cleaning the logic board. Although his problem had nothing specifically related to the display.

You can buy a new one & try to replace it yourself as describe on "LCD Replacement", see "LCD Replacement step-by-step" on https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2010+LCD+Replacement/4311

Instead, Apple corrects its errors by putting out a product like the 2021 MacBook Pro. Whether it’s the thickness of the chassis, the Touch Bar, or the ports, the MacBook Pro represents a reversal of nearly every major design decision from the previous generation.

And yet, the 2021 MacBook Pro manages to be more than just a referendum on the 2016 MacBook Pro. It’s bold in ways that make it exciting, yet familiar in ways that keep it convenient. You might even call it the best of both worlds — which is exactly what you want in a “pro” laptop.

One thing’s for sure: They won’t need to apologize for this one. You can even get last year’s model for a discount thanks to this Cyber Monday MacBook Pro deal.

Taking a step back, the 2021 MacBook Pro still very much looks like a MacBook. It’s still made from a unibody aluminum chassis, it still comes in silver or space gray, and there’s still an Apple logo on the lid.

But the changes in this generation aren’t subtle enough to be missed. Black has become the dominant accent color, gracing both the Apple logo and the backdrop of the keyboard. The black keyboard, in particular, feels like a statement piece when so many laptops have copied the MacBook look. Silver laptops with black keycaps has become ubiquitous in the laptop world, and the MacBook Pro’s changeup is refreshing.

It also immediately distinguishes these MacBook Pros from the otherwise similar-looking MacBook Air (and 13-inch MacBook Pro). Like the Space Gray iMac Pro and matching accessories, Apple uses the slightest change in color scheme to give a premium, exclusive feel. That’s why it most certainly includes a black Apple sticker in the box. This is an expensive product, and Apple wants to welcome you to the cool club. It’s not unlike the strategy used in fashion and design industries.

The other small changes to the design include the removal of the “MacBook Pro” logo from the bottom bezel, new rubber feet on the bottom, and ultrathin bezels up top. That bezel comes with a compromise, of course — though that’s not how Apple will hope you view it.

The idea of a notch in a laptop has been something I’ve been wondering about ever since it debuted on the iPhone X in 2017. As companies like Dell pushed forward with razor-thin bezels in the XPS laptops, Apple stayed the course with its thick bezels in the years since then. A notch was even considered as a possibility in the first few years of thin-bezel XPS laptops, but it never came to fruition.

And yet, to the surprise of almost everyone, the 2021 MacBook Pro has a big notch hanging down from the top, housing the camera module and a host of other sensors. It’s a larger and more intrusive notch than what the iPhone has, opting for a boxier shape. And yes, the notch is where Apple houses a number of important components, which would have been very difficult to fit without increasing the bezel size or reducing the quality of the webcam.

For the first time in a long time on a MacBook Pro, the notch ensures an equal-sized bezel in every direction around the screen, and even allows Apple to introduce rounded corners at the top. In that sense, it bears a lot of resemblance to the screen on the Surface Laptop Studio.

However, the notch is also about branding. It does for the MacBook Pro the same thing it always did for the iPhone, creating a trademark look. Like it or not, it’s Apple’s way of standing out in a sea of identical slabs and clamshells.

Do I love the look? No, can’t say I do. I view it as a compromise, not a design flourish. That being said, given the options of either a chunky top bezel (older MacBooks) or a poorer webcam (Dell XPS 15), it’s not a bad compromise. The notch seems more intrusive on the 14-inch model, which has less room across the menu bar to accommodate the protrusion.

But it never got in the way in my time with the 16-inch MacBook Pro. And thanks to dark mode, the default wallpapers, and the translucency built into MacOS, the notch wasn’t as notable as I thought it would be. I don’t love that your cursor disappears entirely behind the notch.

Unlike the previous generation, the primary design tenet of the 2021 MacBook Pro wasn’t being ultrathin. That’s a departure from typical Apple products, but it’s also giving creative professionals exactly what they’ve been asking for. Most would happily trade a half-inch of thickness for some extra performance.

That’s exactly what the 2021 MacBook Pro does. The side profile is thicker and rounder. And as some keen Apple historians have pointed out, it pays homage to an Apple laptop from 20 years ago, the Titanium PowerBook G4.

There are a number of reasons for the thicker chassis, including having room for additional ports and better thermals. I have the 16-inch model, and it’s now 0.66 inches thick and weighs 4.7 pounds. That’s notably larger in both aspects to the previous-generation 16-inch MacBook Pro. The 14-inch is just 0.05 inches thinner, but it’s significantly lighter at just 3.5 pounds. Importantly, the 16-inch MacBook Pro that I reviewed grew in size over the previous, Intel-powered generation, which was 0.02 inches thinner, but almost half a pound lighter.

It’s not often that Apple products grow in size, but then again, Apple’s approach here is unorthodox. Many of the 2021 MacBook Pro’s biggest features are simply undoing what the previous iteration insisted on. The Touch Bar is the most egregious example, and it’s dead and gone on both the 14-inch and 16-inch MacBook Pros.

It’s no secret the MacBook Pro has reversed course on its ports. While it took entirely too long to get here, Apple has arrived at what I believe is the best possible port selection. You still get three Thunderbolt 4 ports for all the high-powered docking you could need. However, they’re no longer your only options.

First off, charging will primarily happen through the MagSafe 3 power adapter on the left side. What a glorious return! Before the 2016 MacBook Pro, the intuitive MagSafe adapter had always been one of the distinctive technologies behind the MacBook Pro. And now, it’s back.

Beyond charging, the MacBook Pro includes an HDMI port and a full-size SD card slot. You don’t technically need either of these. But as a convenience, it’s something the target audience of this laptop will highly appreciate. I do wish Apple had done us a favor and made this an HDMI 2.1 port for the highest possible bandwidth. Then again, that’s far more useful on a gaming laptop right now than anywhere else.

The SD card slot in particular feels like a must. So many of the buyers of the MacBook Pro will be transferring files from a camera to a laptop. This was something Dell brought to the XPS 15 and XPS 17 a couple years back, and it’s great to see Apple follow suit here.

The 2021 MacBook Pro marks the most significant evolution in display technology for the line since 2012. That shows just how far ahead of the game Apple was back then, but the competition has clearly caught up. It’s not uncommon to see Windows laptops with excellent color accuracy and saturation, high resolutions, and even the use of OLED screens. The MacBook Pro was still among the best, but laptops like the 4K OLED Dell XPS 15 began to score higher points in our testing.

The MacBook Pro takes back the crown, but not in ways that you might expect. Let’s get to the basic details first. It’s a 16.2-inch screen with a rather odd resolution: 3456 x 2234. That represents an increase in pixel density from 220 pixels per inch (ppi) to 250 ppi. That also means it’s slightly taller than the 16:10 aspect ratio at 15.4:10. That’s the same for the 14-inch model, except with a lower resolution of 3024 x 1964, which equates to a slightly higher 254 ppi.

Regardless of which you pick, this is the first Mac to get the Liquid Retina XDR treatment, which also appeared in the iPad Pro earlier in 2021. These screens are powered by mini-LED rather than standard LED. Mini-LED does not use individually lit pixels like OLED; instead, they use thousands of local dimming zones that allow for deeper blacks and better contrast than LED.

That’s exactly what I saw when I tested the screen with my colorimeter. In terms of black levels, the difference between this and OLED is nearly indistinguishable. Both blow traditional LED out of the water and provide a much larger depth of quality.

To be clear, this MacBook Pro isn’t brighter or more colorful than the previous model. It still hits 100% sRGB and 90% AdobeRGB, as well as 475 nits of brightness. That’s plenty bright, but you might be scratching your head about the 1,000 nits of sustained brightness that Apple claimed in its announcement?

Fair enough. But the panel is worthy of praise in and of itself, especially since it now includes a 120Hz ProMotion refresh rate. This allows the screen to automatically adjust the refresh rate between 20Hz and 120Hz, depending on what’s happening on the screen.

If you still think high refresh rates are only noticeable or advantageous for gaming laptops, just try toggling off ProMotion and locking the screen at 60Hz. Once you’ve seen it, it’s hard to unsee. Animations and scrolling feel so much smoother. Heck, even the reduced ghosting of the cursor improves the overall look and feel of the system.

While 120Hz is the same refresh rate you’ll find on some other high-end laptops, such as the Surface Laptop Studio and MSI Creator Z16, it is still missing on laptops like the Dell XPS 15 and HP Spectre x360 16. Notably, we’re yet to see another OLED or mini-LED panel that supports 120Hz, making the MacBook Pro’s screen a unique offering at the moment.

Apple has brought updates to both the webcam and speakers this time around. First off, it’s the first MacBook Pro with a 1080p FaceTime webcam, which is a breath of fresh air. There’s no way Apple could have gotten away with launching another MacBook Pro with a 720p camera. This upgrade is significant, resulting in a much crisper, smoother feed for your laptop-driven video calls.

Apple’s image processing is top of the line, as you’d expect. It really puts the 2021 MacBook Pro in its own league. Now, there were times where I felt the smoothing effects were a little too strong or the color balance a bit too warm. Compared to the 2019 iMac I have at home, for example, it’s a brighter and more processed image. It’s not a perfect webcam, but it’s the best you’ll find on a laptop — bar none.

The 2021 MacBook Pro maintains its reputation as offering the best audio experience on any laptop. Apple upped the ante this time around with an upgraded six-speaker sound system. You still get two tweeters and four woofers, but they’ve each been improved for a more robust and bassy mix. The tweeters are both larger, and Apple says the woofers now go a half octave deeper.

That’s a pretty tough thing to test myself, but I can assure you the 2021 MacBook Pros are a refined version of the previous generation. The bass thumps harder and the stereo separation feels wider than ever. Of course, Apple was already so far ahead of the game that these small improvements won’t move the needle for anyone.

The gap between the speakers on the 16-inch MacBook Pro and every laptop can’t be overstated. Laptops like the Surface Laptop Studio and Dell XPS 17 sound decent on their own, but they pale in comparison. The MacBook Pro actually offers an enjoyable set of speakers to listen to music on. They’re still the only laptop I can confidently say that about.

The keyboard features nice springy keys with a cozy 1.1mm of travel. This is the same Magic Keyboard as the one on the previous 16-inch MacBook Pro. This shouldn’t have to be said anymore, but yes, this is the replacement for the infamous butterfly mechanism keyboards of yesteryear. I’ve loved this keyboard ever since it showed up, and it still makes for one of the most comfortable and precise laptop keyboards you can type on.

The Touch Bar is, of course, the big change to the keyboard in the 2021 model. It’s gone. Kaput. And I, for one, couldn’t be happier. I’ll admit to being excited about the idea when it was announced, but after using it for many years, I think it was a flawed premise from the beginning. The Touch Bar never lived up to its promise, nor received the support it needed to grow into something more useful.

So, it’s gone. And it’s been replaced with something less ambitious but far more functional. The function row is back, but somehow improved. Well, Apple did it by increasing the size. They’re now full-sized keys rather than the squat keys you find on nearly every laptop, including older MacBook Pros. The Escape key is even wider, and it’s flanked by Touch ID on the right side. I love these changes.

The reason they don’t, of course, is because the larger the keyboard, the shorter the trackpad. That’s certainly not a concern with the 16-inch MacBook Pro. It remains vast and expansive, with plenty of space for long swipe and multi-finger gestures. The Force Touch Trackpad remains a standout, simulating the feeling of a click using only a small motorized haptic feedback engine. We’ve seen this type of touchpad show up in other laptops like the Surface Laptop Studio, but the extra size of Apple’s touchpad still makes it my favorite.

Despite all the quality of life updates to the MacBook Pro, it’s really not meant for everyone. That’s truer for this latest generation of MacBook Pros than ever before, especially with the 14-inch model starting at $1,999. That price makes the $1,399 MacBook Pro 13-inch (M1) look downright quaint.

The MacBook Air and 14-inch MacBook Pro make the 13-inch MacBook Pro obsolete, especially since it retains the Touch Bar and lackluster port selection. The MacBook Air remains the best choice for students and anyone else who doesn’t spend most of their time in a heavy application professionally.

When you bump up to the 16-inch model that I reviewed, you’re paying at least $2,499. My unit came configured with the M1 Pro, 32GB of RAM, and 2TB of SSD storage for a grand total of $3,899.

That sounds like a lot, but the 16-inch MacBook Pro has always been expensive. The starting price hasn’t changed, and you can still spec it up to over $6,000 for a unit with 64GB of RAM and 8TB of storage. The sweet spot for you will depend on what exactly your needs are. Very, very few people will need 64GB of RAM, and the $2,200 Apple charges for 8TB of storage is outrageous. Somewhere in between is likely where you want to be, regardless of whether you e