how to get cured resin off lcd screen manufacturer

We’ll admit it. We like the results of resin 3D printing, but we don’t always care for the mess. We aren’t alone, and a common issue is to have drips of resin on your LCD screen — a potential disaster. You ought to have a screen protector, but yeah… you should back up hard drives, too. [Jessy] has the same problem and he has heard that you can easily clean cured resin from the screen using wood glue. Does it work? Check out the results of three glues in the video below.

We winced to see glue going on the screens. [Jessy] cured some resin on the screens deliberately for a test. He used Elmer’s wood glue, Gorilla wood glue, and Titebond II wood glue. While there is a bit of a price difference between the options, they are all fairly inexpensive.

After letting the glue cure for 24 hours, it should peel up and take the resin up with it. Getting under the corner to start peeling was challenging and the whole thing left a huge mess. In retrospect, [Jessy] mentioned it might be a good idea to put a tab under the glue while wet to provide a handle.

It probably doesn’t matter, though. Only the Gorilla glue grabbed any resin at all and even that wasn’t very effective. [Jessy] suggests using alcohol and a plastic scraper if you have this problem. We suggest a screen protector.

There are two upsides, though. First, the casting of some brands of wood glue made some interesting pieces that might have use in some other context. Second, the video comments have other ideas that might be worth trying including hot sponges and cheap material for screen protection.

Usually, we are more worried about getting resin to stick not unstick. If you are still on the fence about the mess versus rewards of resin printing, check out our overview.

Dust, smudges, and/or lint present on the resin 3D printer"s LCD surface may affect printing. In order to increase your success rate in resin 3D printing, we recommend you keep your LCD clean at all times.

Apply a small amount of 95% sanitizing alcohol on the printer’s LCD to remove any cured resin, smudges, and/or fingerprints present on the LCD. Use a soft kitchen paper towel or a fiber cloth and wipe in one direction to thoroughly clean the LCD surface.

An animated explanation to “Why did this happen?” When you move up to larger resin 3d prints, you also start seeing failures. There’s no blanket answer for all print failures. But in this video, he explores a few reasons why resin 3d prints sometimes fail. And hopefully, show you how you can get better results.

In that case, the Pendrive failed and the top pressed the failed print into the FEP perforating it. At the beginning, I wanted to cry, but I got my spatula and scrapped the shit out of the screen. I was able to remove most of it.

But I couldn’t scrap all. Do you see the top corner? I was not able to remove that little bastard. I poured alcohol and rubbed and rubbed and i was only removing the glue from the sealant. So I checked internet.

I promise that I will make a video with how I scrapped everything because I recorded it. But I wanted to let you know the solution right now before I forget to post.

The solution is a 10 dollar plastic shitty tool from Amazon. It is used for vinyl in cars and it is plainly a godsend tool. It does not damage the screen but it is enough sharp that it gets under the resin. It is plainly amazing. Best 10$ invested of my life.

Compatible for ELEGOO Mars / ELEGOO Mars Pro / ANYCUBIC Photon / Creality LD002R / ANYCUBIC Photon S / PHROZEN Sonic Mini / LONGER Orange 10 / LONGER Orange 30 / EPAX X1-N

The light source design, exposure time and other printing parameters of different brands of LCD 3D printers are different.The resin composition ratio of SUNLU designed for the photon is special , it is the most consistent with resin photon print parameter.

1. Environmental requirements: 20-30°C ambient temperature, do not print near windows or in other environments exposed to UV light, and try to isolate children and pregnant women.

4. The residue on the surface of the printed resin parts can be washed with alcohol at a concentration of 95% or more, and it is recommended that the cleaning process does not take more than 1 minute.

5. pores and other details of the alcohol is not easy to clean to the place can be used ultrasonic or filled with alcohol syringes and other auxiliary tools to clean, and alcohol should not be cleaned too many times to ensure the purity of alcohol, the concentration of impure alcohol cleaning model will lead to whitening and wash the phenomenon of unclean. Specific cleaning time, until the surface of the resin parts no sticky feeling, no residual resin in the pores of the effect shall prevail.

6. Drain or blow dry the residual alcohol after cleaning and place under UV light or sunlight, and irradiate all parts of the model evenly until the surface of the resin parts feels dry and hard enough.

7. Use hand sanitizer or dishwashing liquid to wash away any resin residue on the skin, but try not to touch the alcohol-washed resin residue with your hands.

Thickened aluminum bottle completely protected from light. Leak-proof bottle fully wrapped with a plastic bubble bag to make sure the resin stays in place where they belong.

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The basics of resin 3D-printing are based upon the exact curing of resin at a specific location in the XYZ space. Within regular 3D-printers, the Z resolution is better defined as its layer thickness. while the XY resolution is defined by the imaging technology that makes the resin cure. From the earlier days, these were always laser based printers. Where the laser ‘writes’ in the resin and everywhere it touches the resin the material will cure into a solid plastic. Since then there have been plenty of developments in new imaging techniques. After lasers, Envisiontec (now ETEC) developed a projector based imaging technique in the early 2000’s, still known as DLP 3D-printing. This technology has some benefits over laser based systems and made it possible to develop the first desktop sized resin 3D-printers. Although the DLP technology still has some disadvantages (like limited build size / pixel size ratio and its price at the time). In around 2017 Wanhao brought the first affordable LCD based printer. Although companies like Structo and Photocentric released the technology a few years earlier. This new imaging technology based on LCD screens rapidly took over the entry-level and now even the professional resin 3D-printing space. From here the history in imaging technologies for resin 3D-printing is well-known. From 2K RGB LCD / MSLA resin 3D-printers in the beginning, it evolved to 2K monochrome screens, 4K and even 8K mono LCD screens. In this article you will learn more about the technology differences behind monochrome LCD screens vs RGB LCD imaging technology.

We couldn’t write it better as Ackuretta:“LCD stands for Liquid Crystal Display – you will be familiar with this technology, as you are reading this article either through a mobile device or a computer screen. That bright thing in front of you is the LCD screen.”

Next to the Z-axis, which provides the Z resolution, the most important component of a resin 3D-printer is its imaging system. For LCD printers it is obviously the LCD screen combined with its LED array. The technology of the LCD screens in a resin 3D-printer is quite similar as for instance a laptop LCD (except for the backlight, which we come to later). During the last decades there has been an incredible amount of work by imaging companies to create better, larger and sharper LCD screens.

An LCD screen is build-up with a lot of different layers and each layer has its own function for the LCD to work. As the name LCD tells us, it display is based on liquid crystals. These crystals are randomly present and behave like a liquid in normal state. In this state they are quite transparent to light. When locally (per pixel) a current is applied on these liquid crystals, they will change orientation and block light. By doing this for every pixel and placing a background LED behind it, a 2D image is created.

In other words, if there is an electric charge applied to these liquid crystal molecules, they untwist. When they straighten out, they change the angle of the light passing through them so that it no longer matches the angle of the top polarizing filter. Consequently, no light can pass through that area of the LCD, which makes that area darker than the surrounding areas.

LCD based resin 3D-printers started with RGB LCD type of display, which works perfect for most display work. But for resin 3D-printing it is only important that you have one wavelength (one color) of light to print. This is often 405nm light, which is purple/blue-ish. On this wavelength your standard resins will work fine. The funny thing here is that the “old-fashioned” monochrome (means one color) LCD screens work much better for this. Of course these screens are not really old-fashioned and there has been a lot of development in one-color LCD screens as well in the past decades.

The picture below shows a RGB and a monochrome LCD screen. The RGB screens contain color filters. As RGB is an abbreviation for Red, Green and Blue. The color filters are necessary for color TV, phone and computer screens, but in 3D printing you don’t need color. These color filters from the first generation LCD printers lead to a reduced transmittance rate. Meaning that there is less light output and thus slower curing of the resin.

If we dive deeper into the imaging technology of LCD’s, one important value is the aperture ratio. The Aperture ratio is the ratio of the area of ​​the light transmission part of the pixel to the total area of ​​the pixel. They made a comparison image below  with an LCD with aperture ratio of 50 ∼ 80%.

According to Chitusystems: “The increase in aperture ratio is mainly determined by the design scheme and process capability. In the manufacturing process, the alignment accuracy of the array substrate and the color filter substrate will also have a decisive influence on the aperture ratio”.

Going back to the difference with monochrome screens, these do not have a Red, Green or Blue color filters and operate in just one color. Think it as a black and white image (with grey-tones possible). In the pixels that are displayed as white, a lot of the 405nm light from the LED’s below can pass on the complete pixel.

Monochrome LCD’s are better for resin 3D-printing as they will increase printing speed and increase the life-time of the screen. To start with the last one, LCD screens in resin 3D-printing are considered as consumables. These screens need to be replaced when the performance drops. In contrast to DLP systems, which can be re-calibrated and should work for many years. With RGB type LCD screens the lifetime of a screen is approximately 500 hours with normal usage. You will notice dead pixels, flickering LCD screen or parts not working anymore when the life-time of the LCD is over. In our experience this lifetime of an RGB LCD can vary from 200 hours to 700 hours randomly over many different printers. If you replace it yourself it costs around $30-150 on spare parts and it is a fairly easy job, manuals can be found for most printer models online. For monochrome screens the lifetime is advertised at 2000 hours, which is a major improvement over the 500 hours of the RGB LCD screens. We have been working on monochrome printers since their launch (around end of 2020). Although we do not print full-time and only for R&D and quality purpose, we have not replaced any monochrome screen at the time of writing (January 2023). The print hours were not counted but we are sure this is much more compared to the RGB screens LCD’s which we have replaced many times in the past, before de-commissioning these printers.

The brightness and contrast ration of the screens are more dialed in for 405nm light and there are no color filters present, which increases the brightness of the LED’s. These improvements all help in getting a faster print speed. The following printers are both 2K LCD printers, the photon is an RGB type and the Mono is the monochrome version. You can see the difference in print speed there:

Especially for rigid resins the print speed is very much faster on monochrome LCD screens. For instance Liqcreate Premium Model would need 16,0 seconds exposure time for 0,1mm layer thickness on an RGB screen and only 2,0 seconds on the Monochrome LCD screen from the Anycubic Photon Mono. For some specialty resins like Tough-X the print speed will only double from 30 seconds to 14 seconds, as these specialty resins need more time and UV power to cure.

With printing on >20+ LCD type printers for many years we would advise to everyone that is looking for a new resin 3D-printing to choose a monochrome LCD printer. With every new model released we see some new benefits and better LCD screens. The benefits of Monochrome LCD screens are evident and we have not found any negative side of this yet.

The SL1 features a built-in resin level sensor, so in case there’s too little or too much resin, the printer will pause and display an on-screen info message. Because of that, the resin cannot spill during a print due to overfilling the tank.

A protective tray accompanies the Original Prusa SL1. Use it during object removal to prevent any spilled resin on the printer. Around the LCD there is also a small channel designed to prevent smaller amounts of resin to get into the machine.

The resin being spilled is usually the result of an accident. In case any resin is spilled on or into the printer, turn off the printer immediately and disconnect the power cord. Pour any resin still left in the tank into a bottle through the filter before you start the cleanup. The resin needs to be poured in a bottle that offers complete protection from UV lights, like the one provided with the new resin, always poured through the filter.

Wipe all resin you can see with paper towels. Make sure that there are no drops left. A paper towel with IPA can be used to clean the resin, except in delicate surfaces, like the display and the acrylic lid.

In case there is a larger resin spill or the resin tank floods, soak all the excess resin with a paper towel before cleaning the surface with a paper towel and IPA. Open the eight screws holding the bottom cover and check the inside of the printer for any resin that might have spilled. Check if the tilt mechanism and sensor do not have any resin. Use the SL1 assembly manual as a guide for accessing the inside of the printer.

If the spilled resin has been cured, it needs to be very carefully scraped off. In case there is cured resin on the inside of the printer, but it is not on any movable part like the tilt mechanism or electronics, there is no need to clean the resin, as more parts may be damaged in the process. Please note that any damage resulting from this process will not be covered under warranty.

We recommend curing the paper towels soaked with liquid resin in a curing chamber. Another option is to leave them in direct sunlight to cure the resin, then treat them as plastic waste.

Resin 3D printers are awesome, however, the whole process is extremely messy. Especially when an accident happens and the resin leaks from the vat all over the printer.

When this happens mid-print, it usually means one thing – the resin will leak onto the precious LCD of the printer and cure. This means one thing – the UV light will be blocked by the cured parts and you will probably experience holes in your printed parts.

Usually, the people on Facebook advise you to scrape the resin away with a plastic razor. This usually works for small leaks, but it doesn’t work well on large leaks.

I experienced a resin leak recently on my Elegoo Saturn. Scraping the resin was not leading anywhere and I managed to scratch the polarizer film on top of the LCD. Therefore I stopped and I decided to make a (successful experiment): use acetone to dissolve the cured resin. It worked flawlessly!

Let me start with a warning – if you decide to follow this guide, you will do it at your own risk. I tested the procedure on the pre-order batch of Elegoo Saturn with the TM089CFSP01 LCD. It is possible that later batches or different LCDs use a polarizer that is not acetone resistant. In that case, the procedure will damage your LCD! If you want to try it, try rubbing a corner of the LCD with acetone first to see if it is acetone resistant or not. On the other hand – if your LCD is ruined with resin, there is nothing you can lose.

The procedure is simple – soak the cured resin with acetone to soften it and scrape it away. However, the acetone evaporates quickly, so simply pouring it on the screen does not work (as it evaporates), nor rubbing an acetone-wet cloth over it. The solution is to soak a paper towel with acetone, put it on the LCD and cover it with plastic foil to prevent evaporation. After 10-15 minutes the resin softens and is easy to scrape off. You can also apply the same feature with IPA – it will just not make the resin as soft as acetone.

Both DLP and LCD printers can print one full layer at a time, making them some of the fastest 3D printers available. An entry-level LCD printer costs $200 to $1,000. DLP printers start at $500 for entry-level printers and can go up to $100,000 for commercial use.

DLP is an older, more established technology than LCD printing. Though there are a lot of similarities between the two, the main difference is the light source used to cure the printing resin. DLP uses a high-intensity projector as a light source and directs it with thousands of tiny mirrors. LCD printers replace that setup with an LCD screen to mask the UV light which comes from an array of LED lights.

On the whole, LCD printers are constructed using cheaper components than DLP printers. However, LCD screens have shorter life spans than DLP mirror arrays. Plus, low-end screens tend to let light through in a less-than-uniform manner. This results in varying quality and precision from batch to batch and machine to machine.

DLP and LCD printers both employ liquid resin. DLP uses a high-power and higher-intensity light source that can operate on a wider range of resins. This gives DLP more options in terms of material quality. LCD printers, on the other hand, use low-intensity UV LEDs which require less viscous, fast-curing resins. This limits the types of material that can be used and impact the quality of the final product.

DLP is very accurate in narrow, small-scale prints. This makes it very useful for jewelry or dental implants, where precision is critical. LCD, on the other hand, is inexpensive and very accurate for the price point. This low price point makes it great for hobbyists. LCD is also ideal for when the price is more important than absolute precision. That can be valuable for industrial use, certain dental applications, and manufacturing.

DLP machines are available for hobbyists, professionals, and industrial applications that need large print volumes. LCD is a newer technology and has not caught on as much for industrial use. Therefore, large-volume LCD printers are not yet common, though this capability is gradually improving.

Less expensive versions of DLP and LCD systems can both have problems with surface finishes and print quality. DLP produces distortions on the edges of a print, especially in wide parts. LCD pieces can also come out imperfect due to inconsistencies in LEDs, especially with larger machines and larger prints. Both production methods must be followed by post-processing to finalize the parts’ surfaces. Generally, DLP parts come out with better surface finishes and print quality, especially with higher-end printers.

DLP and LCD are both available at affordable prices. An entry-level DLP printer can be purchased for as low as $500, while professional-grade types start at $2000. LCD printers, on the other hand, are available from $200 to $1,000.

There are a few technologies that are alternatives to both DLP and LCD printers. As an example:Stereolithography (SLA):SLA is a resin-based 3D printing technology known for its accuracy. It is similar to DLP and LCD in its use of photopolymer that is cured via UV light.

A 3D printing technology that is similar to DLP includes:DLP vs. FDM: FDM (Fusion Deposition Modeling) and DLP enable an on-demand manufacturing model for many products. They also have a similar pre-production workflow when preparing designs. For more information see our full article on FDM vs DLP 3D Printing.

A 3D printing technology that shares similarities with LCD includes:LCD vs. SLS: SLS uses a laser to fuse powder into a 3D printed object. This is an established industrial technology that compares to LCD in terms of accuracy and printing speed.

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Resin-based 3D printers have been around for a few years now and are available in all sizes, ranging from units small enough to fit on your desktop to larger printers that have a volume that exceeds some popular FDM printers. As manufacturers develop these printers, they are rapidly adding new features to make them easier to use and more accessible to the average person and the new Saturn 2 is no exception.

Elegoo has been in the resin 3D printer business for the past few years and has produced several different sizes ranging from small printers like the recent Elegoo Mars 3, which has a 4K resolution, all the way up to the new Elegoo Jupiter, with a 6K resolution. Like the number in its name suggests, the new Elegoo Saturn 2 is the latest iteration of their Elegoo Saturn line of resin 3D printers and comes with quite a few improvements. The Saturn 2, which is designed to compete with the Best Resin 3D Printers, normally has a retail price of $600, but will be available for pre-order with an early bird price of only $500 for the first 1000 units and $550 for the next 5000 units.

For the prints in this review, I used some of Elegoo’s water washable resin because it was thinner than the low odor resin I had used previously with other resin printers and I wanted to bring out the details so the prints would come out better. I was very impressed with the new resin and using it did seem to make a difference in both the ease of cleanup as well as an improvement in the quality of the prints.

The Elegoo Saturn 2 came well packaged with plenty of foam around all sides along with some cardboard reinforcements along the edges to help prevent any damage occurring during shipping.

The Elegoo Saturn 2 includes a pretty standard array of accessories that many other Elegoo resin printers ship with including tools such as the diagonal cutters for support removal as well as the metal and plastic spatulas.

The metal spatula is for helping to remove your prints from the build plate and you want to be careful while doing so, as it can potentially gouge or scuff the metal surface. The soft spatula is used more as a tool for cleanup such as assisting with removing any residual resin out of the resin tank when emptying.

It also comes with a set of hex key wrenches and some spare screws in case any servicing or repairs need to be performed during the printer’s lifetime. There are two pairs of latex gloves and two surgical style masks for personal protection, but you will probably want to get some higher quality masks and additional gloves for working with resin.

Right away, you can tell the design of the Saturn 2 is different from the previous models. While not being as curvy as the Mars 3, the aesthetic is appealing in its own right. With regard to the features, the Elegoo Saturn 2 is closest in design to the Saturn S of any other of Elegoo’s offerings, which is to be expected as that was the previous model.

One of the most obvious improvements of the Elegoo Saturn 2 is the 8K high resolution screen. The screen is 10 inches, which is a noticeable improvement over the 8.9-inch screen on the original Saturn and the 9.1 inch display that came on the Saturn S.

Leveling the printer was pretty straightforward. The first step is to loosen the two bolts on the sides of the resin tank. Then using the control panel on the front of the printer, you want to raise the build platform to a sufficient height that the resin tank can be removed.

You can then press the up button until the build platform is high enough to reinstall the resin tank. The platform should now be properly leveled. If you are having trouble with prints sticking to the platform or you notice a flat spot on your printed model after removing it, you may want to try re-leveling the platform.

With resin printing, you will want to print in a well ventilated area that’s still out of the way of any UV radiation such as direct or indirect sunlight. Even with the low odor resins, the fumes can still be toxic. You will also want to make sure you are wearing gloves to avoid directly contacting the resin with your skin.

One thing that you hear discussed a bit less often is exposure to UV light. With the Elegoo Saturn 2, I tested whether removing the cover would turn off the UV light source and unfortunately found it continues to emit UV light. Although it’s likely not any stronger than sunlight, it is best to avoid looking directly at a UV light source with your eyes if you can help it, and it is a good idea to avoid direct exposure to your skin as well. Most of the time the resin will be covering up the UV light source, so this isn’t really much of an issue, but it is something to be aware of.

With some of Elegoo’s earlier printers, this guessing has yielded softer prints that were often gouged with the spatula upon removal. It appears that the company has increased the exposure time with the latest test prints, so it takes a bit longer, but the model is less likely to be damaged.

Printing the test prints is pretty simple. Just insert the USB memory stick into the USB port on the right side of the printer, select the Print option from the main menu, open the “ELEGOO SATURN 2 Rook Model for Printing Test” folder, and select the Rook Test Print Model. There is also an STL of the model if you would like to try slicing it yourself with Chitubox.

The first thing you’ll want to do once you have Chitubox Basic installed is to add a new printer in the software. The current version at the time of this writing already has the Saturn 2 as an option, making setup a breeze. One thing you will want to check is the exposure times on the resin you will be using. I ended up needing to increase the exposure time quite a bit for the water washable resin because the default values left the resin a little too soft.

After you have your printer all set up, you can load a model to slice. Slicing with a resin printer is quite a bit different from slicing for a traditional FDM printer. Since the model is printed upside down and is printed used liquid resin, there are additional things you need to take into account such as drainage holes, the weight of the item you are printing so it doesn’t fall off the build plate, and even where the supports attach so that when they are removed, you don’t remove delicate details.

For the first model, I went with theTower of Pi to show basic slicing. This one is fairly straightforward since it doesn’t have any large solid sections, but it also has a lot of detail making it a great demonstration of a resin printer.

To get your model prepared, you will want to place the model at an angle. Placing models at an angle makes it much easier to remove them from the build platform without damage in the process. It also gives more surface area for supports to hold on so the model is less likely to fall during printing.

Once the build supports are in place, you can go back to the Settings tab and click on the Slice button. This will slice the model. Once it is sliced, a Save button will appear, which will allow you to save the sliced file onto the USB stick that came with the printer.

To test printing a bust, I decided to go with a model of an Elf Archer Bust because the dimensions fit well in this printer and I wanted to see how the details came out. Chitubox has a nice feature that allows you to hollow out the model. It also has a feature to allow you to add drain holes so that you can rinse out any excess resin from inside the head.

To start with, I loaded my model into Chitubox Pro just as described above and got it sitting at an angled orientation. I oriented with the face pointing away from the build platform so that there would be fewer supports on the face.

I clicked on the Hollow button at the top, which allows you to set the thickness of the outer shell. I increased the value to 3mm because the defaults are a bit on the thin side. I then added a single large drainage hole on the bottom of the bust using the Dig Hole tool.

To wash the models, I used Elegoo’s largest Wash and Cure station, the Mercury X bundle. Although this was designed with the original Saturn and Saturn S in mind, which have slightly smaller build volumes, I found the build platform still fit into the tank. The only issue I had was with some of the taller prints bottoming out.

What worked well for me was to start off by washing the item in the water first after printing, then remove the supports while they were still soft. After that, I dipped it in water briefly and used the brush included with the water washable resin to loosen up any more resin residue. I gave it another rinse in the rinse tank in hopes that the water would now be able to get into the nooks to help remove any additional resin. After letting the item completely dry, I then cured it and this prevented any white residue from forming on the prints, which can happen even with the water washable resins.

Prints can and eventually do fail even on resin printers, though I did not experience any failed prints on the Saturn 2 myself. Whether it happens due to support structures that are unable to support the mass or any number of other things, you still will have a mess to clean up before you can print again.

It is best to start by removing the model above the resin tank. I found that using the metal spatula on the build plate worked quite well. The reason you want to remove the model first is to avoid dripping any resin onto the LCD screen, which is very difficult, if not impossible to remove once hardened.

After that, run a tank clean cycle through the printer’s menu, which will expose the entire bottom layer of the tray to UV light and create a solid mass of any little pieces that may have broken off of the failed print. You may consider adding a piece of removed support from a previous print to one corner first to make removal of the mass easier.

Once that is complete and you have removed the hardened resin, you should empty the resin tank. The plastic spatula works well to assist with this. Emptying the resin first allows you to inspect the FEP film as well. If it gets too damaged, you may need to replace it before continuing.

You will also want to verify that any stray resin did not get on the outside of the resin tray so that it doesn’t end up getting onto the LCD screen when placed back onto the printer, which could end up curing there. Even though the LCD is scratch resistant, you will still want to be extremely careful if you did have any resin cure there, which is why it is best to avoid it in the first place.

You can use some isopropyl alcohol to help clean any surfaces that resin gets onto and paper towels to wipe it dry. You may want to leave any failed prints outside to dry in the sun and harden or you could place them in a cure chamber if you like.

This is a very polished machine that produces prints of phenomenal quality. During the entire time I was testing it, I had no failed prints. If you are looking for a mid-sized 3D resin printer or you need to print in a high level of detail, you really can’t go wrong with this printer.

Another printer that is in a similar budget range that you may also want to take a look at is the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8k with an even more impressive resolution of 22 microns, but with the tradeoff being a smaller print volume. If you want something with a smaller footprint and you like Elegoo, you may consider going with the Elegoo Mars 3. If you are looking for a larger build volume, you may want to consider taking a look at the Elegoo Jupiter. However, if you want this level of detail and build volume together, the Saturn 2 8K is hard to beat.