white spot cleaning on lcd panel free sample

Can you read this line? Or is there a splash from a sneeze, or a greasy fingermark in the way? Perhaps another portion of your screen is dirty. The chances are that you don"t clean your screen often enough. In fact, we"re willing to bet that you"ve been putting it off for a while…

Cleaning a computer screen isn"t as difficult as you might think it is. Here"s what you need to know about how to clean your display, what to use, and cleaning it safely.

Splashes can obscure what you see on the screen. Smudges and greasy fingerprints accumulate over time to leave you with a dirty screen; dust gathers. The result is a viewing experience that is diminished by the presence of dirt.

It doesn"t have to be this way. Cleaning your computer or laptop display is remarkably simple. What"s more, it only takes a few minutes. When you"re done, you"ll have a shiny new display as good as the day you bought it.

Don"t have these things to hand? Don"t worry---you can also clean your computer screen with standard household products. Start off by making your own screen cleaner, using isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) or white vinegar, and distilled water.

You"ll also need a suitable microfiber cloth substitute. The idea here is to avoid anything likely to scratch your display. So, avoid paper towels, anything used for washing dishes, and facial wipes. Instead, opt for a cotton t-shirt, or handkerchief. A soft cotton tea towel is also a safe alternative.

Drips from the fluid can run into the bezel of the display, causing problems with the electrics. On a laptop, the spray can end up in vents and the keyboard, as well as running into the bezel.

With the cloth in hand, clean the display making small circular motions, avoiding unnecessary pressure. Start in the top left corner, and work across, then start another row. If some dirt seems tough to shift, repeat the process, focusing on that area.

Cathode Ray Tube (CRT) monitors are rare these days, but they can still be found in retro gaming systems. You might even own an arcade machine with a CRT display, or simply own an old CRT TV that you still use.

Next, spray the screen cleaning fluid onto the lint-free cloth, wiping the display in straight lines. Don"t worry if the cloth dries out---simply apply another few squirts of cleaning fluid.

These devices attract more grease and dust than static LCD displays. As such, you"ll need to clean them in a slightly different way. Hybrid device touchscreen displays are cleaned in much the same way as standard tablets and smartphones.

The main aim here is to remove the grease, then clean the screen of other dirt and detritus. Our guide to safely cleaning a tablet or smartphone display will help you here.

Once your greasy, dirty screen is cleaned up, you might feel ready to start using your computer again. But you shouldn"t stop there. It"s time to completely clean your computer. Using a notebook? Here"s how to clean your laptop and keyboard.

We"ve all had that moment: You"re sitting at your computer or laptop and the light hits your screen in a way to reveal an unsightly accumulation of streaks, fingerprints, and dust.

To help, we round up the most important things to know about cleaning your computer screen, whether it"s a Mac or PC. While it"s a simple process, there are a few important rules to keep in mind to make sure you"re doing it safely.

Computer screens are not all made the same, and thus can"t all be cleaned the same way. You"ll want to be careful no matter your screen type, but it"s helpful to know that displays come in two categories:Glass-coated screens: The screens on newer iMac displays and MacBooks have a glass overlay. Glass displays are a little less delicate than LCD or LED screens, and mild cleaning solutions, like rubbing alcohol, are generally safe to use on them.

LCD or LED screens:Windows computers and most touchscreens and matte displays are typically not coated in glass. Extra care should be taken with these screens so not to damage the pixels that make up the display.

Since there are so many computers, laptops, and monitors out there, each with their own set of variables and specificities, it"s smart to just simply err on the side of caution.

To clean a computer screen, you really just need two things: A microfiber cloth and filtered or distilled water. That"s to say you don"t need a special store-bought cleaning solution.

If you"d like some extra sanitation power, an equal parts mixture of water and vinegar is safe no matter your screen type. If you know that your display is glass-coated, you can also use an equal parts mixture of water and 70% rubbing alcohol.What you needTwo lint-free microfiber cloths

d3sign/Getty ImagesTurn the computer or laptop off.For safety reasons, begin by letting the device cool down completely. Dust, fingerprints, and smudges are also easier to spot on a black screen.

If any marks remain, wipe with a lightly moistened cloth.For glass-coated screens, you can use a mixture of equal parts water and vinegar or rubbing alcohol. For LED or LCD screens, use only water. Spray or lightly dab the solution directly onto the cloth and carefully wipe the screen from left to right.

Buff with a dry cloth and air-dry.If any streaks remain once the screen dries, gently buff them with the dry cloth. Before you turn your computer or laptop back on, allow the screen to dry completely.Note:Apple claims that you can use 70% isopropyl disinfecting wipes to clean any Apple product. Just remember not to get any liquid into the device"s ports or openings — to avoid this, you might want to wring out the wipe to remove any excess liquid before using it.

For the best advice for cleaning your screen, it"s a smart idea to check your owner"s manual, which provides the manufacturer"s specific recommendations. But since screens are especially susceptible to damage, there are a few general guidelines that apply, no matter the type of screen you own.

Turn off your computer before cleaning the screen. This is just safe practice where any amount of liquid is involved, but more specifically, any static on the screen could create a shock and damage the internal components.

Do not use abrasive cleaning solutions. This includes bleach (or any products containing bleach), hydrogen peroxide, or all-purpose spray cleaners. Using an abrasive cleaner can ruin the finish of your screen.

Use filtered or distilled water. Especially in areas with hard water, water containing minerals like calcium and magnesium can damage your screen or leave even more streaks.

Use only soft microfiber cloths.Even a fabric as soft as a cotton shirt has snags and uneven particles that can scratch a computer screen. For this reason, avoid T-shirts, towels, and paper towels. The exception is the Apple Pro Display XDR or iMac, which requires a special polishing cloth.

Never spray cleaning solution directly onto the screen. To avoid any risk of damage from excess moisture, mist the solution directly onto the microfiber cloth instead.

Do not wipe in circles. Wiping in circles can create uneven pressure and ultimately lead to screen damage. It"s also more likely to create streaking. Wipe in tight, Z-shaped motions, or in broad strokes from side to side.

Do not scrub.Apply gentle pressure only. Hard scrubbing can damage the internal components of the screen and could leave scratches or spots of discoloration or dead pixels that won"t go away.Melanie Weir

Melanie Weir is a freelance author for Insider, mainly focusing on the Tech Reference section, but occasionally contributing to Lifestyle and Entertainment topics as well. She is also a freelance writer for ScreenRant, and is the Lead Weekend News Editor at TheThings.com. In her spare time she writes plays for both stage and screen. She can be reached at melanie.weir1008@gmail.com, or through LinkedIn.

Keeping your computer clean is a necessary habit. Over time, your computer — especially your monitor — collects dust and debris, not to mention passing germs from sneezing and coughing. While fingerprints are bad enough, the eye strain from a messy monitor is even worse.

Cleaning your monitor is also a bit more involved than a simple wipe-down, and there are certain products you shouldn’t use. In this article, we’re going to talk about the right way to clean your computer monitor.

While it may be tempting to reach for a bottle of Windex or some other general cleaning product, don’t! Harsh chemicals may be fine for windows or countertops, but they can wreak havoc on computer monitors, wearing away coatings. There are many cleaning fluids on the market specifically geared toward computer monitors. While these products indeed work, you don’t need to spend money on them if you don’t want to; distilled water should work for most monitor-cleaning, and you can mix in some white vinegar for stubborn grime.

Additionally, avoid paper towels, rags, old T-shirts, or any of the usual materials you use to wipe down surfaces in your home. Monitors are more delicate than they look, and these fabrics — even paper towels — are abrasive enough to scratch your screen, especially if you have used them for other jobs where they might have accumulated grit. A microfiber cloth — the kind you might use to clean your glasses or vinyl records — is the safest choice. Just make sure it’s free of any dirt or grime before swiping across your display.

Step 1: Turn off your monitor. It’s easier to see smudges and stuff on a black screen, so turning off your monitor makes it easier to see what you are doing. It’s also safer for you and your computer. Cleaning your monitor while it’s on and the pixels are all fired up could damage your screen or potentially give you an unpleasant electrical jolt. Please turn it off!

Step 2: Wipe your monitor with a microfiber cloth. If dust is the only thing on your screen, a quick wiping should be enough to clean it. Take the microfiber cloth and gently brush the screen in long motions. We cannot stress enough that you should be gentle: Pressing too hard on the screen could damage the pixels within.

Step 3: If the thick layer of dust on your monitor has been slowly replaced with more questionable gunk — maybe some dried mucus from a sneeze that caught you off guard or mysterious specs of who-knows-what — then you’ll want to use cleaning fluid.

There are gentle cleaning fluids designed for monitors, but distilled water works well, as mentioned earlier. It’s important you only use filtered or distilled water, however, since tap water contains minerals and other substances that can harm the screen or leave annoying streaks. For especially stubborn grime, add a bit of white vinegar to the water. Just be careful not to spill any on your laptop.

Step 4: It’s important that you never spray water or other cleaning fluids directly onto your monitor, or it might trickle down to the edge of the screen and seep into the monitor itself and damage the electronic components within.

Responsible for performing installations and repairs (motors, starters, fuses, electrical power to machine etc.) for industrial equipment and machines in order to support the achievement of Nelson-Miller’s business goals and objectives:

• Perform highly diversified duties to install and maintain electrical apparatus on production machines and any other facility equipment (Screen Print, Punch Press, Steel Rule Die, Automated Machines, Turret, Laser Cutting Machines, etc.).

• Provide electrical emergency/unscheduled diagnostics, repairs of production equipment during production and performs scheduled electrical maintenance repairs of production equipment during machine service.

Grease and smoke from cooking can take their toll on your cabinets. Before you get into deep cleaning, take the time to do a basic once-over on your kitchen cabinets. Make it part of your normalkitchen cleaningroutine so that you don’t have to worry about more serious buildup. Use a solution of water with all-purpose cleaner or white vinegar, and place this in a spray bottle. Work on one cabinet at a time, using a soft sponge to scrub the surface in a circular motion. You can have a separate sponge damp with just water to get rid of the cleanser left behind, and use a soft cloth to dry the surface.

Even when you are vigilant about cleaning your kitchen, spills and splatters can happen. These might result in stains on your white kitchen cabinets. To clean these, make a paste with baking soda and water. You can use a damp sponge or a soft-bristled toothbrush to apply the paste to the stains, scrubbing gently as you go. Leave the paste on the cabinets for a few minutes, and then wipe it off with a clean sponge. Your cabinets should respond well to this, leaving you with a sparkling kitchen.

You’ll find an incredible selection of kitchen cabinets and more at Southwest Kitchen & Bath in Tucson. Contact us at (520) 531-9187 to learn how we can bring your visions for a new kitchen to life, orvisit our websiteto find out more about what we do.

Despite industry best practice of inspecting and cleaning fiber optic endfaces, contaminated connections remain the number one cause of fiber related problems and test failures in data centers, campus and other enterprise or telecom networking environments.

As the industry moves to higher data speeds, more stringent loss budgets and new multi-fiber connectors, proactively inspecting and cleaning fiber endfaces is more important than ever to ensure network uptime, performance and equipment reliability.

Even when users think they have properly cleaned the fiber, every connector endface either field terminated or factory terminated should always be inspected before connecting to a component or piece of equipment. This document covers the tools and techniques for inspection and cleaning of fiber end faces.

Every fiber installation relies on proper endface cleaning practices for good reason. Network performance is only as good as the weakest link, and the weakest link is wherever a fiber endface is exposed – whether at a patch panel, equipment port or at the end of a patch cord or jumper.

Regardless of the type of fiber, application or data rate, the transmission of light requires a clear pathway along a link, including through any passive connections or splices along the way. A single particle on the core of a fiber can cause loss and reflections, resulting in high error rates and degraded network performance. Contamination on a fiber endface as shown in Figure 1 can also adversely impact the interface of expensive optical equipment, and in some cases even render equipment inoperative.

With fiber networks at the core of a business’s most important asset – the data center – and with the need to keep up with consumer demand for high-speed access to information anywhere and anytime, downtime and poor network performance are simply no longer an option. As network applications require more bandwidth and transmission speeds continue to climb from 1 and 10 gigabits per second (Gbps) to 40 and 100 Gbps, loss budgets have become tighter than ever. Dirt, dust and other contaminants are the enemies of these higher-speed data transmission rates over fiber networks. It is therefore critical that all optical connections be kept free of contamination to avoid application performance issues.

With contamination being the single greatest cause of fiber failures, spending the extra few seconds to properly inspect and, if necessary, clean every connector endface will save time and money in the long run.

While accidently touching a fiber endface and working in dirty, dusty construction environments are known causes of contamination, there are plenty of other ways to mishandle fiber that may not be obvious. Brushing an endface on clothing that can contain body oils, lint or other substances can cause contamination. In fact, any time an endface is exposed to the surrounding environment, it is subject to contamination – even if it was recently cleaned. Dust in the air can easily collect on a fiber endface, especially in the presence of static electricity.

Contamination also easily migrates from one port to another every time a connector endface is mated. Even a dust cover designed to protect the fiber endface can be a significant source of contamination. Unfortunately, many users are under the impression that if the endface was previously protected by a dust cover, it must be clean. However, no one can really know for sure what was in that dust cover. This is even the case for endfaces on new factory-terminated connectors. While dust caps are great at preventing damage to the endface, the plastic used to create dust caps can emit a residue as it deteriorates over time and the surface of the cap may contain mold-release substances used in high-speed production processes. Therefore you should not be surprised to find a contaminated endface upon removal of a protective cap on a connector fresh out of the bag.

Many also believe that an endface plugged into a piece of equipment must be clean and can therefore be unplugged and remated without concern. However, this too can cause contaminants to pass from one endface to another. Even if the initial contamination was outside of the fiber core, mating can break up a contaminant and cause particles to travel across the endface and redeposit on the core. The same holds true for equipment ports, which are often overlooked as being a source of contamination.

It is not enough to just clean every fiber endface. Users have no way of knowing if the endface is clean unless they inspect it using a fiber inspection tool designed specifically for that purpose, such as a professional video microscope or a handheld fiber microscope. That is why the golden rule is to always inspect, and if necessary, clean and inspect again before connecting.

This is especially a concern for multi-fiber connectors such as the multi-fiber push-on (MPO) style connectors that are rapidly becoming the norm in today’s data center fiber backbone channels as the required interface for 40 and 100 gigabit Ethernet (GbE) applications.

Consider a 12-fiber MPO interface with an array that features a much larger surface area than a single fiber connector. When cleaning these larger surface areas, it is much easier to move contaminants from one fiber to another within the same array. And the larger the array, the higher the risk. With 24-, 48- and 72-fiber MPOs used in high-density fiber interconnects, the greater number of fibers are more difficult to control and not all the fibers always protrude at the same height. Height variances across the fibers in a single multi-fiber connector can increase the risk of not every fiber being properly and equally cleaned.

Tube-shaped and compact, optical microscopes (Figure 2a) allow direct inspection of the end-faces. While these are popular due to their low cost, they don"t provide views of end-faces inside equipment or through bulkheads.

Video inspectors consist of a small optical probe connected to a handheld display (Figure 2b). The size of the probe makes it excellent for examining ports in hard-to-reach places. A large display easily enables identification of end-face defects. Some provide autofocus and automatic image centering for faster and easier inspection. These probes are also safer because they show an image and not the actual end-face, thereby reducing the risk of exposing one’s eye to harmful radiation.

One of industry’s longtime concerns with manually inspecting fiber endfaces has been that determining cleanliness has largely been a subjective and inconsistent process. What one person deems as clean can vary greatly from another. Additional variables such as skill level, years of experience, eyesight, ambient lighting and the fiber inspection tool being used can also lead to inconsistencies in determining fiber endface cleanliness. With more fiber networks being installed and maintained by a greater number of individuals, there is also a greater chance of inexperience regarding what constitutes endface cleanliness.

In an effort to establish consistency in fiber inspection and achieve more repeatable results for performance across multiple endfaces, the IEC developed the 61300-3-35 "Basic Test and Measurement Procedures Standard for Fiber Optic Interconnecting Devices and Passive Components." This standard contains specific cleanliness grading criteria to assess pass or fail certification for inspection of a fiber endface, removing the human subjectivity factor.

Figure 2c: Fluke Networks FI2-7300 FiberInspector Pro MPO / Single fiber inspection camera provides automated PASS/FAIL results and uses Versiv for display, user interface and recording of results.

The certification criteria in IEC 61300-3-35 varies based on connector type and fiber size, as well as types of events: defects or scratches. Defects include pits, chips, scratches, cracks, particles and embedded and loose. Scratches are identified as permanent linear surface features while defects include all detectable non-linear features that can typically be cleaned. Certification to determine pass or fail is based on the number of scratches and defects found in each measurement region of the fiber endface, including the core, cladding, adhesive layer and contact zones, as well as the quantity and size of the scratches and defects (see Figure 3).

For example, as shown in Table 1, multimode fiber with polished connectors can have no scratches greater than 3 μm in width or defects greater than 5 μm in width in the fiber"s core. Within the cladding zone, there can be no scratches or defects greater than 5 μm in width, 5 defects ranging between 5 and 10 μm in width and no limit on the number of defects less than 5 μm in width. The number and size of scratches and defects allowed in each zone varies based on the connector type and diameter.

While the IEC 61300-3-35 ED.2 standard can be used as a guideline for manually grading cleanliness, a manual procedure would require technicians to determine the size and location of the scratches and defects, which can still introduce human error and inconsistency not to mention take a lot of time.

Thankfully, automated certification solutions like Fluke Networks’ FI-7000 FiberInspector Pro use algorithmic processes to automatically and quickly inspect, grade and certify single fiber endfaces based on the criteria of the IEC standard. The FI-7300 can automatically test and inspect both single and MPO end.

These types of devices eliminate human subjectivity and result in faster, more accurate and repeatable results to help ensure optimum fiber network performance faces (figure 2c). These solutions also provide documentation of the fiber end face, in the form of images as well as pass/fail results. These results can be stored along with others, such as the loss or OTDR trace for the fiber.

Compared to a single fiber, MPO connectors have a more surface area that can collect contaminants. When the connector is unplugged and replugged, particles can move from a spot where they’re not a problem to one where they are.

Another thing to keep in mind is that automated inspection of MPOs can take some time – even the fastest systems take nearly two seconds per fiber to generate a pass/fail result – almost a minute for a 32 fiber MPO.

That"s why an MPO inspection camera that can provide an instant view of the entire MPO connector can save time. The FI2-7300"s Live View shows the entire connector face in about a second. Then you can use simple gestures to move to a view of the individual fibers.

Most of the time, the Live View will let you know if the MPO is likely to pass or needs cleaning. Then you can document it knowing it should pass, or clean it as needed and use Live View again. This saves time waiting for an automated inspection result that is going to fail, but also allows you to catch contaminants that are on the connector but not near any of the fibers.

Figure 4: FI2-7300 Live View of MPO connector shows you contamination on and adjacent to the fibers. Simple gestures allow you to zoom in on individual fibers.

The best answer to the question of what to inspect and clean is everything – every endface should be inspected, and every endface that fails IEC 61300-3-35 certification should be cleaned (see Figure 4). If upon inspection, the endface passes IEC certification, do not clean it. Cleaning can attract dust due to static electricity.

Figure 5: Is the endface shown on the left clean or dirty? Automated certification demonstrates that it is dirty per IEC 61300-3-35 due to defects in the core.

Any and all endfaces, even brand new ones and factory-terminated plugs and pigtails, should be inspected for cleanliness before mating. That includes both ends of fiber optic test cords, fiber jumpers and pre-terminated trunk cables.

If using an adapter to mate two plugs, the endfaces on both sides and the sleeve of the adapter itself should be inspected and cleaned before inserting them into the adapter. Interchangeable adapters used with optical power meters also need to be inspected and cleaned on a regular basis. Often the adapter has a light shield with pin hole that can accumulate debris. Always consult the documentation that came with the testing equipment as some vendors require sending certain adapters back for factory cleaning.

When testing or troubleshooting any equipment, including the tester itself, all plugs and ports should be inspected and cleaned before mating. That includes test equipment ports, adapters, test cord endfaces and any ports into which you will be connecting the test cord.

As previously mentioned, dust caps and mating can be a source of contamination. Therefore every time a fiber endface is unplugged or removed from a dust cap or port, even when it is brand new, it should inspected and cleaned as necessary prior to being inserted. Ports should also always be inspected and cleaned before inserting a connector, even if one was just recently removed.

Properly cleaned end-faces (see Figure 6) can actually “add” up to 1.39 dB onto your loss allowance. In other words, if you have a fiber plant with an overall loss of 5.0 dB against a specified budget of 4.5 dB, cleaning any dirty end-faces may help to drop the link loss down to just above 3.6 dB, providing a “Pass” and plenty of headroom.

Consequently, it is important to wisely choose your cleaning tools and methods while avoiding commonly practiced bad habits. Contamination easily migrates from one port to another every time a connector endface is mated. So it’s essential that port connections are clean. Quick Clean™ Cleaning pens are dry cleaners that are ideal for cleaning ports on devices and patch panels, but not patch cords where end-faces may be exposed to grease. Four sizes of Fluke Networks Quick Clean pens are available (see Figure 7):

If inspection reveals that contamination is not removed after dry cleaning, “wet” cleaning will be required using wipes and solvent. Fabric and composite wipes made of lint-free material provide the absorbency to remove contaminants from the endface. In general, it is recommended to avoid cleaning against a hard surface. When using a wipe, typically one or two short (i.e., 1cm) strokes on the cleaning material is sufficient. Enough pressure should be applied so that the wipe can conform to the end-face geometry and ensure that the entire end-face has been cleaned.

Using the right solvent with wipes is critical. Solvents add a chemical action that increases the cleaning ability of the wipe to lift particles and debris from the endface while eliminating the issue of static charge with dry cleaning. It is important to avoid using excessive amounts of solvent, which can leave behind a film of dissolved contaminants. To remove excess solvent, wet cleaning should be followed by dry cleaning by either moving to the dry area on the wipe (see Figure 8) or by following up with new dry wipe. Just be sure to not overdo it to avoid creating static charge.

Figure 8: “Wet to Dry”: cleaning methodology Using a Fluke Networks Optic cleaning card. The solvent drop is placed at "1", and the end face moved across the cleaning material from "1" to "4"

The solvent itself should also be specially formulated for fiber endface cleaning, such as Fluke Networks’ Fiber Optic Solvent Pen. While isopropyl alcohol (IPA) was used for many years to clean fiber endfaces, specialized solvents have a lower surface tension that makes them far more effective at enveloping debris for removal and dissolving contaminants (see Figure 9). Such sovents also provide antistatic properties, so dust in the air is less likely to be attracted to the end-face of the connector. IPA can also leave behind a “halo” as it dries that not only causes attenuation, but also can be difficult to remove. No solvent should remain on the endface after cleaning.

To wet clean fiber endfaces inside ports or equipment, specially designed lint-free swabs are used instead of wipes (see Cleaning Kits, below). When using swabs for port cleaning, it is important to apply just enough pressure to clean the endface while rotating the swab several times in one direction. When using solvents with port cleaning, it is even more important to not use excessive solvent that can saturate the plug interface. The evaporation rate of a solvent becomes significant with port cleaning as it is harder to guarantee removal of all solvent. Lingering solvent can become trapped during mating and cultivate a harmful residue over time. This is another reason to use solvents that are specially formulated for cleaning fiber–these solvents stay around long enough to work but evaporate much faster than IPA. Swabs may also be used for wet cleaning of MPO connectors.

It is also important to remember that these consumables are just that, meaning that once a wipe or swab is used to clean an endface, it should be immediately discarded.

Reusing a dirty wipe or swab is one of the easiest ways to spread contamination. While cleaning of jumpers and test reference cord endfaces is important, these components are also consumables that eventually fail-sometimes cleaning is not enough if these components have reached their end of life following the vendor’s specified number of insertions.

If network uptime, signal transmission performance and equipment reliability are important to your business, skimping on inspecting and cleaning fiber optic endfaces can result in dire consequences. And just because you may think you properly cleaned, does not mean you can forego inspection. Not only are best practices for fiber cleaning essential, but every endface should be carefully inspected and certified per the IEC 61300-3-35 standard prior to making a mated connection-including both endfaces and ports.

By incorporating fiber inspection and certification into your process, you can eliminate human subjectivity and quickly inspect, grade and certify fiber endfaces per the standard. In doing so, there should be no excuse for network failures due to contaminated endfaces.

The FI-3000 FiberInspector Pro makes inspecting MPO and single fibers easy and efficient. The multiple camera Live View provides an instant, real-time image with simple touchscreen gestures to view the full connector down to individual end faces. Automated pass/fail results based on IEC 61300-3-35 in seconds. Store results on your phone and share them through text or email or use the industry-leading LinkWare™ to store complete project reports including copper, fiber loss, OTDR and end face images. Compact, ergonomic design with autofocus makes it comfortable and fast even when you’re testing hundreds of cable or ports.

Fluke Networks’ FI-7000 FiberInspector Pro certifies fiber endfaces to the IEC 61300-3-35 industry standard in just two seconds, providing automated PASS/FAIL results that take the human subjectivity and guesswork out of fiber inspection.

Ideal for inspecting endfaces inside ports or on patch cords, the FI-7000 FiberInspector Pro detects and measures defects found on fiber endfaces and automatically certifies the results based on the IEC 61300-3-35 standard. To provide clear graphical indication of which defects pass or fail the standard’s requirements, the FI-7000’s pinch-and-zoom touchscreen colors each defect and highlights the defect’s background – defects that fail are colored Red while defects that pass are colored Green.

The FI-7000 is built on Fluke Networks’ Versiv Cable Certification Platform that enables storing endface images and certification in Versiv test results and taking advantage of Versiv capabilities like ProjX™ for managing job requirements, the Taptive™ user interface for easy set-up and the multifeatured LinkWare Software for managing data and generating professional test reports. The FI-7000’s PASS/FAIL fiber endface certification is available to all Versiv inspection camera owners by downloading the latest Versiv firmware.

CertiFiber Pro integrates with LinkWare™ Live to let you manage jobs and testers from any smart device over Wi-Fi. The Taptive™ User Interface provides simple, animated guidance to eliminate incorrect reference setup and “negative loss” errors. Future-ready design can be easily upgraded to support Cat 5 to Cat 8 certification, OTDR testing and double-ended Pass/Fail certification of fiber optic connector endfaces. It is Encircled Flux compliant out of the box. Analyze test results and create professional test reports using LinkWare PC reporting software.

OptiFiber Pro OTDR’s ultra-short dead zones facilitates the identification of fiber patch cords in virtualized data centers. SmartLoop™ technology enables the testing of two fibers in both directions, and averages the measurements as required by TIA-568.3-D in seconds - without taking the OTDR to the far end.

Future-ready design can be upgraded to support Cat 5 to Cat 8 certification, singlemode and multimode fiber loss and fiber inspection. Integrates with LinkWare™ Live to manage jobs and testers from any smart device.

You know by now how dirty your phone can get. And if you’re concerned with your health and hygiene (which we’ll assume you are), then you probably take some time to clean and disinfect your phone.

But what are you cleaning your phone with? The right tools and techniques will no doubt keep your phone clean and so will the wrong ones. The only problem is that the wrong methods will damage your phone in the process.

Some of the most commonly used cleaning agents happen to be the ones that send phones to the cemetery of mobile devices prematurely. The reason for this is that most of us are accustomed to using these products for almost everything else, and therefore assume that a phone can withstand the same treatment. But that’s not the case.

First off, let’s take a look at chemical cleaners. Sure, they’re powerful germ-killing agents, but they’re full of other compounds that destroy more than germs. And of course, some of the things they can destroy include your phone’s components.

Alcohol and ammonia will kill germs on your phone, but they can cause some damage as well. On the surface, alcohol creates unsightly marks on your screen due to the high level of acidity. After it dries, it might leave a smudge that just doesn’t come off. You’d have to replace the screen (or worse, the entire phone) to remove those stains.

Alcohol is also especially bad for phones because it contains water. If you use alcohol or an alcohol-based product and it seeps into your phone ports, water could short-circuit your device because of its conductivity. This could lead to malfunction or total hardware failure.

Finally, alcohol, ammonia and other fluids can activate your phone’s liquid damage indicator (LDI), the component that tells companies if your phone has suffered water damage. This is bad news because if the LDI is triggered, then your warranty may become void.

Paper towels are noticeably rougher than toilet paper (try wiping your nose with both to feel the difference). These quicker-picker-uppers have thicker textures for better absorption, and the surface of toilet paper is abrasive, making it very easy to scratch a phone’s surface.

It’s important to avoid using these heavy duty towels because repeated use will lead to a build-up of scratches. Once the scratches accumulate, your screen will get less and less responsive to the point of not even working in some cases.

When scrubbing the bathtub, the use of force is required. When wiping a phone, the use of force is damaging. Unfortunately, a lot of people put too much pressure when wiping their phones, which is a bad idea for the standard LCD phone screen.

Too much pressure put on a phone can damage not only the screen, but the ports as well. This method of cleaning comes from a need to put some “muscle” into a job, which is a completely backwards way of wiping off your screen.

If so, don’t feel bad. You can keep your phone shiny and almost germ-free by choosing the right products and using the right methods to keep it clean. In fact, there are alternatives to all three of the harmful ones mentioned above.

You don’t need harsh chemicals to sanitize and shine your device. Once you accept that, you’ll realize that the alcohol and ammonia-based products most people use is unnecessary.

It does the job of typical cleaners minus the acidity, killing germs and polishing screens without leaving unsightly stains behind. As an added benefit, it’s non-toxic nature makes it safe to keep around the house since it poses no health risks to your kids or pets.

The best cloth surface for phone screen cleaning is one that glides. This type of cloth picks up dirt with a just a few gentle motions - there’s no need to press down on a screen. Your best option that fits this description is

Finally, there’s no replacement for harsh wiping other than to lighten your hand. This one requires more of a psychological intervention and since we’re not therapists, you’ll have to find ways to remind yourself to take it easy. With that said, even just using the microfiber cloth might give you a reason to wipe your screen a little bit more gently.

There are 1001 ways (okay, maybe not so many) to clean your phone, but many of them can damage your device. So instead of turning to a method or product that causes damage, rely on the ones that do the job without shortening your phone’s lifespan. With our ScreenShine and microfiber cloths, you can be sure to get the deep clean you want without any added baggage.

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Is it OK to use a disinfectant on my iPhone?Using a 70 percent isopropyl alcohol wipe, 75 percent ethyl alcohol wipe, or Clorox Disinfecting Wipes, you may gently wipe the exterior surfaces of your iPhone. Don"t use products containing bleach or hydrogen peroxide. Avoid getting moisture in any openings, and don"t submerge your iPhone in any cleaning agents.

These models feature glass with advanced textured matte finishes either on the back glass or around the camera area. With normal use, the textured glass on your iPhone might show signs of material transfer from objects that come in contact with your iPhone, such as denim or items in your pocket. Material transfer might resemble a scratch, but can be removed in most cases.

Clean your iPhone immediately if it comes in contact with anything that might cause stains or other damage — for example, dirt or sand, ink, makeup, soap, detergent, acids or acidic foods, or lotions. Follow these guidelines for cleaning:

Your iPhone has a fingerprint-resistant oleophobic — oil repellent — coating. Cleaning products and abrasive materials will diminish the coating and might scratch your iPhone.

Clean your iPhone immediately if it comes in contact with anything that might cause stains or other damage — for example, dirt or sand, ink, makeup, soap, detergent, acids or acidic foods, or lotions. Follow these guidelines:

Your iPhone has a fingerprint-resistant oleophobic — oil repellent — coating. On iPhone 8 and later, the coating is on the front and back. This coating wears over time with normal use. Cleaning products and abrasive materials will further diminish the coating and might scratch your iPhone.

Clean your iPhone immediately if it comes into contact with contaminants that might cause stains, such as ink, dyes, makeup, dirt, food, oils, and lotions. To clean your iPhone, unplug all cables and turn it off. Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Avoid getting moisture in openings. Don"t use window cleaners, household cleaners, compressed air, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, or abrasives to clean your iPhone. The front glass surfaces have an oleophobic coating. To remove fingerprints, wipe these surfaces with a soft, lint-free cloth. The ability of this coating to repel oil will diminish over time with normal use, and rubbing the screen with an abrasive material will further diminish its effect and might scratch the glass.

Clean your iPhone immediately if it comes into contact with contaminants that might cause stains, such as ink, dyes, makeup, dirt, food, oils, and lotions. To clean your iPhone, unplug all cables and turn it off. Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Avoid getting moisture in openings. Don"t use window cleaners, household cleaners, compressed air, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean your iPhone. The front glass surfaces have an oleophobic coating. To remove fingerprints, wipe these surfaces with a soft, lint-free cloth. The ability of this coating to repel oil will diminish over time with normal use, and rubbing the screen with an abrasive material will further diminish its effect and might scratch the glass.

To clean the dirt that might accumulate around the SIM tray opening, use a soft lint-free cloth and place a very small amount of rubbing alcohol on it. Very gently wipe the dirt away from the port opening and avoid getting any of the moisture in the opening.

Clean your iPhone immediately if it comes into contact with contaminants that might cause stains, such as ink, dyes, makeup, dirt, food, oils, and lotions. To clean your iPhone, unplug all cables and turn it off. Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Avoid getting moisture in openings. Don"t use window cleaners, household cleaners, compressed air, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean your iPhone. The front glass surfaces have an oleophobic coating. To remove fingerprints, wipe these surfaces with a soft, lint-free cloth. The ability of this coating to repel oil will diminish over time with normal use, and rubbing the screen with an abrasive material will further diminish its effect and might scratch the glass.

Clean your iPhone immediately if it comes into contact with contaminants that might cause stains, such as ink, dyes, makeup, dirt, food, oils, and lotions. To clean your iPhone, unplug all cables and turn off your iPhone (press and hold the Sleep/Wake button, and then drag the onscreen slider). Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Avoid getting moisture in openings. Don"t use window cleaners, household cleaners, compressed air, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean your iPhone. The front and back glass surfaces have an oleophobic coating. To remove fingerprints, wipe these surfaces with a soft, lint-free cloth. The ability of this coating to repel oil will diminish over time with normal use, and rubbing the screen with an abrasive material will further diminish its effect and might scratch the glass.

Clean your iPhone immediately if it comes into contact with contaminants that might cause stains, such as ink, dyes, makeup, dirt, food, oils, and lotions. To clean your iPhone, unplug all cables and turn off your iPhone (press and hold the Sleep/Wake button, and then drag the onscreen slider). Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Avoid getting moisture in openings. Don"t use window cleaners, household cleaners, compressed air, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean your iPhone. The front glass surface has an oleophobic coating. To remove fingerprints, wipe these surfaces with a soft, lint-free cloth. The ability of this coating to repel oil will diminish over time with normal use, and rubbing the screen with an abrasive material will further diminish its effect and might scratch the glass.

To clean your iPhone, unplug all cables and turn off your iPhone (press and hold the Sleep/Wake button, and then drag the onscreen slider). Then use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Avoid getting moisture in openings. Don"t use window cleaners, household cleaners, compressed air, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean your iPhone.

Knowing how to fix dead pixels is a good skill to know. If you’ve noticed unusual spots on your display, you might be dealing with stuck or dead pixels. Fortunately, these pixels are usually harmless and can be detected using special pixel tests.

Dead and stuck pixels can appear on LCD screens of all kinds. This includes monitors, phones, and camera displays. It’s easier to spot them on larger displays, though.

If you’re using a camera, carefully look at your LCD display as you take photos. Are there any spots that stay in the same place no matter how much you move your camera? Those spots are dead or stuck pixels.

There’s a distinct difference between stuck and dead pixels. If you’re completely sure that the pixels on your screen aren’t dust, you need to identify them.

Stuck pixels are usually red, green, blue, or yellow. Dead pixels are black. No matter how much your screen changes, those pixels will remain fixed in one spot and won’t change their color.

Keep in mind that stuck pixels can also be black or very dark in color. You might accidentally mistake them for dead pixels. To make sure that they’re not dead, you need to use a dead pixel test. More on this later.

Stuck pixels are much easier to remove than dead pixels. If you’re sure that there’s a dead pixel on your screen, you’ll probably have to hire a specialist or replace your display.

Here are a few simple websites that let you check for dead pixels using solid colors. They basically do the same thing, but one of them might be more compatible with your device/browser than the other.

You need to be in full-screen mode. Make sure you wipe your screen beforehand so that you don’t accidentally mistake a speck of dust for a dead pixel!

Click on each color. If you don’t notice any unusual spots (black or any other color) on your screen, it’s likely that you don’t have an issue with dead or stuck pixels.

Some users recommend rubbing a dead pixel using a cloth to get rid of it. This might work temporarily, but it will damage your display in the long run.

Too much rubbing can damage even more pixels on your screen and lead to serious problems. If none of the solutions work, the best way out is to contact a specialist.

As mentioned previously, dead pixels are usually impossible to remove without professional help. However, you need to make sure that those dead pixels aren’t secretly stuck pixels or simply dust particles.

This is a very simple and seemingly straightforward method. But it might be the best solution to your problem. If your screen appears glitchy, it might simply need to be refreshed.

Use a screen-cleaning spray and a cloth to wipe your display. Make sure you don’t apply too much pressure or else you might damage your screen. A few gentle swipes might get rid of the problem.

If the options above don’t work, JScreenFix might be your best solution. This is a website that anyone can use for free. You don’t need to download any programs or extensions to use it. Best of all, it promises to remove stuck pixels in less than 10 minutes.

Your job is to find the stuck pixel and drag the box to it. Leave it there for a few minutes. This should get rid of any unusual pixels on your display.

If you’re sure that the pixel is dead (and not stuck), then you’ll need to see a specialist. There are a few methods for fixing dead pixels, but most of them don’t seem to work effectively.

Dead pixels usually don’t spread. They’re usually a small fault in a display. If they do spread, you might need to hire a specialist or replace your screen.

Make sure you clean your display, take a dead pixel test, and use JScreenFix to get rid of the pixels. It’s likely that this will fix the problem and prevent you from consulting a specialist.

My strange and wonderful daughter has an obsession with bones since she was three years old. She even asked me if she could have my bones when I die.  I said yes, but since we aren’t at that point yet, right now we are gathering all sorts of animal bones and cleaning them.