white spot cleaning on lcd panel price

White spots on your laptop screen aren’t signaling the end of the device, and they are symptoms of known faults that plague most computer systems randomly. If you notice it on your computer, you shouldn’t process a return yet.

Black spots might be a symptom of serious problems like screen damage, but most times, it’s only indicative of a software glitch messing with your laptop display.

If you are currently experiencing this specific display defect, you are in the right place. In this article, you’ll learn how to remove white spot on laptop screen, and you’ll also learn how to avoid this problem from happening in the future by following simple preventive measures.

A white spot on your screen could result from screen damage, hardware failures, or pixel damage. These are a few possible reasons which can cause defects on your screen. However, the most common reason for this is the presence of loose LED reflectors in your LCD screen.

Pixels are the unit of color on your computer screen, and the pictures on your monitor are made from a combination of millions of pixels. Since these pixels are the basis of image formation, when a collection of them doesn’t work, it may result in a big white spot in a specific part of your screen.

A damaged screen can also cause white dots on your screen. It’s usually challenging to know if the white dots on your screen result from screen damage. If the dots are relatively large and don’t have a distinct shape, it might be screen damage. Observe your screen for possible cracks or faults.

If there turns out to be damage to your screen, you may have to replace the whole screenif you can’t live with it. A screen replacement for a laptop isn’t exactly cheap, as it can cost you thousands of dollars, depending on your machine.

You could also be having white spots on your screen due to internal hardware problems, mostly your graphics card in this case. To confirm this, connect your laptop to an external monitor. If the display is perfect, it’s likely a problem with your screen.

There are reflectors present in most LCD screens, including TVs, laptops, mobile phones, etc. These reflectors are responsible for spreading light across your screen evenly. Sometimes, the reflectors might get loosened and forced out of position.

There are many ways to remove white spots on your laptop screen. You can manually fix loose LCD reactors by pressing the affected area with a damp cloth until the pixels become normal again. However, if the white spot is a result of a damaged screen, you may have to replace the whole screen.

Before purchasing your laptop, it is essential to run a screen test.Most people think only older laptop models can get those annoying white spots. But since newer model laptops also have pixels and graphics cards, they’re prone to it too.

Before getting a new laptop computer, try running a general test on the screen. While you should test for brightness and color accuracy, you should also look out for white spots, however minor, as they can spread across your screen pretty quickly.

If your laptop is under warranty, you may want to send it back for repair or replacement. Replacing a laptop screen is very costly, and you don’t want to be paying for that out of your pocket.

However, if your laptop isn’t on a warranty, you have limited options. When buying a replacement screen, you want to ensure that it’s free of defects, as you don’t want to buy another in a few weeks. Lastly, never buy without reasonable warranty coverage.

Fixing loose LCD reactors isn’t rocket science, and it’s very doable, even for people with no previous experience working with gadgets. You only have to follow the simple steps below, and your laptop’s display will be back at its best.Turn off your laptop and carefully disconnect it from the power source. Then, unscrew the computer and remove the metallic tabs carefully.

To access your display, you’ll need to remove your speaker by removing the speaker connectors and yanking the speakers off carefully. Consider paying attention to the order with which you are going about things to avoid costly mistakes. Thereafter, you’ll need to turn off the circuit board and remove the metal board.

Raise the tabs on the plastic frame and locate the loose reflector. With the help of your Q-tip and glue, glue the area around the fallen glass and put the reflector back in place. Ensure the glue is dried up before covering up your computer to avoid gluing the internal components.

Before fixing a pixel fault, you should know if it is a dead or stuck pixel. Dead pixels are pixels that can’t display any form of light. On the other hand, a stuck pixel can only display one specific color.

If you are usually on the go with your laptop, the screen is prone to be damaged by falling or hitting a wall. Getting a protective case will protect the laptop in case of a fall or heavy pressure.

If you frequently bring your laptop close to your bed, you may sleep on the computer and crack its screen. If you continue to use your laptop on your bed, it will only be a matter of time before you’ll have to replace the display after sleeping on it.

There are a couple of reasons why you have white spots on your screen. It may be because of loose LCD reactors or damaged pixels. When your laptop is exposed to heavy pressure or a steep fall, it may damage your screen, which could also lead to white spots.

The white dot on your computer might be “Hot pixels.” Hot pixels are the white dots that appear as an aftermath of stuck pixels. Stuck pixels refer to pixels that can only display one specific color, and it can be corrected by wiping the screen with a damp cloth.

Getting rid of white spots on your Dell laptop screen is just like you will on any other laptop. When you know the reason for the white spots, you can get rid of them easily. It could be as easy as conducting DIY repairs on your LCD reflectors or replacing the whole screen as the case may be.

The white dot on your HP Laptop screen is just like the white dot on any other Laptop. Hot pixels appear as a result of stuck pixels on your screen. It’s important to note that these white spots may be either reversible it permanent, but trying the common fixes is worthwhile.

The white spots on your device don’t mean you haven’t been taking proper care of the device; it is an LCD phenomenon. All devices and gadgets with an LCD screen are susceptible to the problem.

If it is on the back of the LCD window glass then here is a link to the Ifixit guide on how to remove the back casing of your camera. Hopefully by using this guide you will be able to gain access to the window glass to clean it.

If the mould turns out to be in the LCD itself, which would be unusual as it is supposed to be a sealed unit, then the only thing to do then is to replace the LCD unit.

Here is a link to just one supplier of the part. This is just shown to give you an idea of the price of the unit. Search online if you need or want to get the part.

The best way to get rid of white spots on a Samsung TV is to first identify the source of the problem. Common causes of white spots on a Samsung TV are: temperature fluctuations, excess moisture, dust and dirt buildup, incorrect picture settings, and a faulty video circuit.

If the white spots appear when the television is turned on, it is likely due to a picture setting that has been adjusted wrong. In this case, you can try adjusting the picture mode and brightness level to a lower setting.

If the white spots are present when the TV is turned off, temperature fluctuations and moisture are likely the cause. The best method for preventing these spots is to keep the temperature in the room consistent and reduce the relative humidity in the room with a dehumidifier.

If the white spots are surrounded by a discolored area, it is likely a malfunction in the video circuit. In this case, you will need to take the TV to a repair shop for assistance.

Your TV may have white, cloudy spots due to physical or electronic damage to the display. This kind of damage, which is sometimes referred to as burn-in, is caused by leaving an image or theme (like a logo) on the screen for too long.

If the image can no longer be removed, it will leave a ghost-like image or a white, cloudy spot on the display. This kind of damage is more likely to occur on plasma or CRT displays. However, OLED and LCD displays also have the capability of becoming damaged in this way.

It is important to fix this problem as soon as possible, as it can lead to permanent discoloration or dimming of the display. The best way to repair the damaged area is to have it professionally serviced by a qualified technician.

First, you should unplug your TV and leave it to sit for 30 minutes to an hour. This helps to reset the TV and allow it to adjust to the surrounding environment. This should be the first step before trying any other solutions.

If the problem persists, the next step you should take is to make sure that the TV screen is properly cleaned. Gently use a soft, dry cloth to clean the LCD display. Avoid using any harsh cleaning solutions, as they can cause further damage to the TV.

If the cloudy spots appear to be related to a connection issue, be sure to check any cables, connectors, and power sources for loose connections or other damage. If you’re unable to locate any issues with the connections, use a different video source to determine if the issue is related to the TV itself or the source you are using.

If, after trying these solutions, the cloudy spots persist, it may be time to take your TV to a professional for repairs. A specialist can diagnose and repair any underlying issues, helping to get the TV back to optimal performance.

Getting rid of TV marks requires cleaning the screen with a soft cloth, an electronic cleaning solution or a combination of both. The type of cleaning solution to use depends on the type of TV that you have.

For most TVs, a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water is an effective and safe cleaning solution. You should also use a soft and lint-free cloth when cleaning the screen. Make sure to clean the screen in a circular motion to avoid streaks.

Finally, if you have any deep scratches on your TV, you can try using car polish to help fill them in. Be sure to follow the directions on the car polish and to be gentle when applying it.

Yes, you can use vinegar to clean your TV screen. Vinegar is an effective and safe cleaning solution for many different types of products, including electronic devices. To use vinegar to clean your TV screen, start by unplugging the TV and allowing it to cool down.

Mix one part distilled white vinegar with one part water in a bowl. Dip a microfiber cloth into the mixture and wring it out so it’s damp, not wet. Gently wipe the TV screen with the cloth in a circular pattern.

If there are any stubborn spots, you may use a little bit of baking soda on the microfiber cloth and continue wiping in a circular pattern. Wrap the microfiber cloth around your hand or use an old cotton sock, so you can get into hard to reach places like corners.

Wipe the entire screen until the spots are gone. Finish by buffing the screen with a dry microfiber cloth. Do not use any other type of cleaning solution to clean your TV screen as it may contain ingredients that could damage the surface of the screen.

Cleaning a flat screen TV is a delicate process that requires the proper cleaning materials and method. To clean without damaging your TV, start by creating a mild solution of warm water and a small amount of dish soap.

Dip a soft, microfiber cloth into the solution and gently wipe down the screen with circular motions. If the screen is particularly dirty, you can use a cotton swab dampened with the same solution to get into the hard to reach places.

Additionally, it is important to not spray the cleaning solution directly onto the TV and to avoid pressing too hard as this can cause permanent damage to your flat screen TV.

If you are seeing horizontal or vertical lines on your television, there are a few potential causes. First, it is important to rule out any potential issues with the HDMI or other cables that are connected to your TV.

One possibility is that the screen isdirty. Another possibility is that the TV’s refresh rate is set too low. If the refresh rate is set too low, the picture will appear to be choppy. Another potential cause is a bad connection between the TV and the wall outlet.

If you are seeing lines on your TV, the first step is to try resetting the TV. To do this, unplug the TV from the wall outlet and then plug it back in. Once the TV is reset, try changing the refresh rate.

Yes, you can use rubbing alcohol to clean a flat screen TV. However, it is important to take certain precautions to ensure you do not damage the TV. Start by unplugging the TV before cleaning. Then, use a cleaning solution of rubbing alcohol and water in a 50:50 mix.

For the cleaning cloth, choose a lint-free, microfiber cloth. When wiping the TV with the cloth and cleaning solution, work in very small circles and do not scrub. It is also important to not spray the solution directly onto the TV, as this could damage it.

Cleaning an LED TV screen requires some care and patience. It is important to use a soft, lint-free cloth, dampened with a slightly damp solution of mild detergent and water to effectively clean an LED TV screen.

Make sure to keep the cleaning solution slightly damp and not overly wet. Use the damp cloth to gently wipe the LED TV screen in a circular motion, removing any dust and dirt build-up. Additionally, you can use a dry, soft cloth to gently buff the surface of the LED TV after it has been wiped down.

Ensure you avoid using any harsh chemicals or abrasive cloths as this may damage the LED TV screen. Finally, after cleaning the LED TV screen make sure to power it off, unplug any cords, and wait for the screen to completely cool before manually cleaning or wiping it.

Yes, it is possible to fix dead pixels on a TV. The easiest way to do this is to use an LCD screen repair kit. These kits contain special tools and supplies such as lint-free cloths, applicators, and specialized cleaning solutions that help you safely remove dead pixels.

First, you need to apply the cleaning solution to the affected area to dissolve any debris. Make sure to use a soft cloth as hard scrubbing can damage the screen. Then, you need to apply a special adhesive which will help absorb the liquid and then stick the pixel back in place.

Finally, you will need to leave the TV on for several hours to allow the adhesive to cure and hopefully fix the pixel. If that doesn’t work, you may need to replace the LCD panel.

TV clouding is a term used to describe a type of computing that involves using the cloud for TV services. It allows TV users to access their favorite content from any device or location and avoids the use of traditional hardware and equipment.

TV clouding takes advantage of the vast network of data centers around the world that are connected to the Internet, enabling video streaming and other services to be delivered to and accessed by anyone.

TV clouding also offers more personalised services and offers such as on-demand programming, app stores and more. Additionally, TV clouding can provide an easier and more cost-effective way to manage and store content, as storage is often charged on a pay-as-you-go basis instead of through costly hardware and equipment.

The corners of your TV may appear lighter because of the way in which the backlight illuminates the LCD panel. It is common for the center of the TV to be brighter than the corners, due to the nature of the backlight’s design.

The backlight module is arranged to provide a higher average luminance in the middle of the screen, while the corners receive less light due to their distance from the panel. The result may be a visible difference between the color or brightness levels in the corners compared to the center of your TV.

In addition, displaying incorrect video settings can also contribute to the problem. Poorly calibrated TV settings, such as a higher backlight level or an incorrect aspect ratio, can create issues with light uniformity and cause the corners to appear brighter.

A small bright spot on your TV is usually caused by an accumulation of dust on the surface of the display and a buildup of static electricity. Dust has a tendency to stick on the surface of TV and computer screens and when static electricity builds up, it can create a bright spot on the screen.

This could be due to any number of reasons, such as being in a dusty room or wiping down the screen without an anti-static solution. To mitigate this, you should wipe down the screen with an anti-static, dust-free cloth and keep the area around your TV clean to reduce the amount of dust accumulation.

A white dot on a computer screen may be caused by a multitude of different issues. It could be a stuck pixel, a flashing pixel, or an abnormal current running through the display.

A stuck pixel is a pixel that gets stuck in an “on” state and displays as a white dot. The stuckness of a stuck pixel can range from being very obvious in a bright background to being nearly invisible in a dark background.

If you have a stuck pixel, it is usually possible to fix it by gently applying pressure to the area around the pixel until it “pops” back into position.

A flashing white dot is caused by a voltage spike coming from the display circuitry. This can be caused by electrical interference from nearby devices, or some sort of malfunction within the display itself.

Another possible cause of a white dot on a computer display is an abnormal current reading through the display. This could be caused by a manufacturing defect, corrosion or accidental damage. In this case, the white dot can be seen as a sign that the display is failing, and is a sign that the display should be replaced.

The cost to fix bright spots on TV can vary depending on the type and cause of the problem. If a connection has come loose, tightening the connection may only cost a few dollars in parts, plus perhaps an hour of labor.

However, if the cause of the bright spots is a malfunctioning LCD panel, it can cost hundreds of dollars to replace the panel, plus labor costs. Other potential causes like bad capacitors, inverter resistors, and even dried thermal paste can cost additional parts and labor costs and will be taken into account when servicing the TV.

If it is a display settings issue, then you should double check your screen settings. First, make sure the display settings are correct and then confirm that the TV signal source is correct. You can also experiment with different settings to see if this fixes the issue.

If the settings seem to be correct, then a signal issue could be to blame. First, make sure the cable connections are secure and functioning properly. Check that there are no loose connections on the TV, cables, and that all cable connections are inserted securely.

Finally, it could be caused by a malfunction on one of the TV’s circuit boards. In this case, it’s best to consult an authorized TV service center that understands the inner workings of a Samsung TV.

A high-quality picture of digital television depends on the correct setup of the equipment, a good receiver, and the correct operation of the monitor. Over time, even the quality models of Sony, Samsung, LG equipment, white spots may appear on the TV screen. To eliminate them, you need to find out the cause of the breakdown, decide if you can fix the TV by yourself or if you should refer the equipment to professionals.

So What Are White Spots on TV?LCD TV Screens are comprised with thousands of tiny pixels, and they cycle through 3 basic colors; blue, red, and green and they create an image. The problem arises when a pixel gets stuck in the “on” position, and it appears as a white dot. Hot pixels come with defined edges and they are either square or straight lines.

White spots (or dots) on the TV screen are the result of a damaged processor and the overheating process during warm summer temperatures.Another reason that can be the cause of white spots on the TV screens is spikes or surges as electricity supplies can vary throughout the year.On top of every LED of your TV, there sits the reflector. These white dots on your TV screen are the results of a fallen reflector. The number of dots has corresponded to the number of fallen reflectors.

To eliminate the problem of white spots on your screen, you just need to carry out simple manipulations at home. Keep in mind that only professionals can fix more complicated failures. Regardless of the place where the repair can be, the reasons for white spots include:

Kinescopebreakdown of the frame scan; malfunction of the TV picture tubeElimination of malfunctions in the service. A failed picture tube cannot be repaired. In rare cases, it can be replaced.

In most cases, the self-repair attempts can lead to the need to buy a new TV. Repair of equipment by professionals will cost 1.5-3 times cheaperthan the new TV.

If light spots appear on the LCD TV screen, you will need a clean soft cloth and remote control to remove them. The second thing to do is adjust the TV settings. This can be done by adjusting the backlight and screen brightness:

Important! In the process of changing the brightness level, the intensity of the white spots should change. If they remain unchanged, the settings are not the cause of the defect.

If wiping the screen, checking that the brightness and contrast settings are correct, and loosening the screws did not get rid of the white spots on the LCD TV screen, you can replace the matrix. It is better to contact specialists for this, but if you have experience with television equipment, you can carry out repairs on your own.

Important! It is best to carry out repairs with soft cotton gloves. You need to disconnect the cables carefully and smoothly. If you damage them during the repair process, you will have to replace them or buy a new plasma, LCD TV.

If your TV is under warranty and white spots appear during this period, take it to a service center. Masters will diagnose, exclude, or confirm the presence of a factory defect. The TV will be repaired for free or with a big discount.

Black spotsand most of the streaks are removed in other ways. The general repair option is possible only in case of system failureswhen a reboot of the equipment or restoration of factory settings is required.

White spots are something that can appear on any TV whether it is new or used. What you need to know is that you need to react in a timely manner and know how to deal with them. In this article, we have described the detailed procedure, and guided you through the entire process. If you have a warranty, use it. I hope you have understood the cause of white spots and that you will solve it with the help of this article.

Regularly cleaning your LCD monitor keeps it free of dust, smudges, and germs. Wiping with a dry microfiber cloth is the safest cleaning option and is surprisingly effective at removing germs. You may need to use a dampened microfiber cloth to get rid of stubborn smudges and stuck-on debris, though. If you"re worried about germs, consider using a vinegar and water solution or a Lysol wipe on the screen. Be sure to check the device’s user manual first to make sure it’s okay to use liquids!

This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.

Have you ever left your TV or monitor on for days, stuck on the same image? You return to your screen, only to find an image burned into the display. No matter what you do, it won"t go away. It is a permanent image burn.

Why do monitors and TVs get image burn? Why can"t manufacturers prevent LCDs and plasma screens from a burnt image imprint? Moreover, what can you do to fix an image burn?

In some cases, you can minimize the image burn effect. In others, you can remove the image burn completely, so long as it hasn"t been burning too long.

Before flat-screens and crystal displays, most TVs and monitors featured CRT (Cathode Ray Tube) technology. In CRTs, individual pixels comprise a red, blue, and green phosphor component. Depending on the intensity of each phosphor component, the pixel appears to the human eye as a unique color.

When a particular still image remains for too long, the intensity of each phosphor component diminishes at an uneven rate. The result is a ghost image on the screen, which is known as image burning.

Plasma displays use plasma, a gaseous substance containing free-flowing ions. When the plasma is not in use, the particles in the plasma are uncharged and display nothing. With the introduction of an electric current, the ions become charged and begin colliding, releasing photons of light.

This is a very simplified version of how a plasma screen works. However, the main thing to understand is that plasma screens use phosphor material (like CRTs) to turn those photons into images.

LCD and LED do not work in the same way as CRTs, either. LCD and LED screens use backlit liquid crystals to display colors. Although manufacturers market screens using LED and LCD, an LED screen is still a type of LCD. The white backlight filters through the liquid crystals, which extract particular colors per pixel.

LCD and LED displays don"t suffer from the same type of image burn as CRTs and plasma screens. They"re not completely clear, though. LCD and LED screens suffer from image persistence. Read on to find out more about image persistence.

Before you can fix screen burn-in, take a second to understand why these images burn in the first place. LCDs and LEDs don"t suffer from burn-in as seriously as plasma screens. But static images can leave an imprint on both display types if left alone for too long. So, why does image burn happen?

First, let"s tackle plasma screen burn-in. Remember why CRTs experience image burn? When a still image remains on the screen for too long, the phosphor components in each pixel wear out at different rates. The uneven burn rates leave behind a ghost image, forever etched into the screen.

Plasma screens also suffer from phosphor deterioration. Plasma burning occurs when pixels on the screen are damaged through long exposure. The phosphor loses its intensity and only shows the light it was fed repeatedly. In this case, the still image, which causes the burn.

LCD and LED screens can also experience image burn, though the image burn process can take longer to develop into a permanent issue. In addition, LCD and LED screens suffer from another issue, known as image retention (also known as image persistence or an LCD shadow).

Image retention is a temporary issue that you are more likely to notice before it becomes a permanent issue. However, proper image burn can still affect LCD, LED, and OLED screens.

Image retention is a different issue from image burn (although it is a precursor to image burn). For example, you"re using an image of a steam train as a reference point for a drawing. You have the steam train image on your screen for a few hours before you decide to play a video game instead.

When you load up the video game on the screen, you can still see the faint outline of the steam train on the screen. The steam train image will remain for a short while, but the movement and color changes of the video game (or film, TV show, or other media type) should erase the retained image.

The other thing to consider is that LED and OLED image burn-in, when it happens, is irreversible. That"s because of how LED and OLED screens work. Individual pixels within an LED display decay when they emit light.

Under normal use, an LED, OLED, or QLED screen won"t suffer image burn. However, if you leave your screen on a single channel for hours every day, then burn-in can become an issue, as it would with almost any screen.

Issues arise when a screen shows a single news channel 24 hours a day, every day, causing channel logos to burn-in, along with the outline of the scrolling news ticker and so on. News channels are a well-known source of television burn-in, no matter the screen type.

Image burn-in fixes exist for LCD and plasma screens. How effective an image burn-in fix is depends on the screen damage. Depending on the length and severity of the image burn, some displays may have permanent damage.

The best fix for screen burn is to prevent it in the first place. Okay, that isn"t super useful if your screen is already experiencing image burn. However, you should always try not to leave your screen on a still image for too long. The time it takes for an image to burn-in varies from screen to screen, between manufacturers, sizes, and panel type.

My personal rule of thumb is to turn off the display if I plan on being away for more than 15 minutes. That way, it is difficult to get caught out, plus you save yourself money on electricity costs and monitor or TV wear and tear.

Another prevention method is to reduce screen contrast as much as you can. Unfortunately, most screens aren"t calibrated correctly, often pushing the contrast and brightness settings too high.

Lower contrast means the lighting across your screen is more even. This means less strain on specific areas of the screen, which helps protect against image burning.

If your plasma or LCD screen already has image burn-in, you can try turning on white static for 12 to 24 hours. The constant moving of white-and-black across your screen in random patterns can help remove the ghost image from your screen.

Unfortunately, this won"t work for extreme cases. Some TVs will have a built-in pattern swiping option that basically accomplishes the same thing (filling your screen with random patterns).

Pixel-shift constantly slightly adjusts the image on your screen, which varies the pixel usage to counteract image burn. You might have to enable a pixel or screen shift option in your screen settings. Pixel-shift is a handy feature for LED and OLED screens that cannot recover from image burn and should help counteract an LCD shadow.

Other modern screens feature built-in screen refresh functions that the manufacturer will advise using to remove image retention and image burn issues.

The best tool for fixing ghost images is JScreenFix. The original program helps fix monitors with dead pixels, but the same company also released an "advanced" version of the tool, known as JScreenFix Deluxe.

While the Deluxe version uses advanced algorithms to repair burned screens and prolong plasma and LCD longevity, the official site is no longer up and running, and there is no way to download the full version officially.

You can find the free version of the Deluxe app online, but it is limited to 20 minutes running at a time. Furthermore, we"re not going to link out to the versions you can find online as we cannot verify the security of these installations. If you do use the Deluxe version, you do so at your own risk.

Another option is to set a completely white desktop background and leaving to run for a few hours. The solid color might reset the image burn. A solid color background is more likely to help with image persistence than image burn, but it is still worth trying.

If you have television burn-in, you can attach a laptop to your TV using an HDMI cable, extend your desktop to the television, and share the white screensaver. Hopefully, that will shift your television burn-in.

The team over at ScreenBurnFixer offers a few different ways you can attempt to fix screen burn on your TV or monitor. As with any other screen burn-in fixes, their chance of working depends on the scale of the issue.

You can head to the ScreenBurnFixer Video page and find a video that matches your screen type, then let the video play for as long as possible (we"re talking multiple hours, not a quick half an hour blast). Alternatively, head to the Chart page and find your device or a device that matches your specifications.

Some screen degradation over time is understandable. However, if you follow the steps in this guide, you"ll protect your screen from image burn before it becomes a permanent issue.

To remove dust or smudges from the nano-texture glass screen, use only the polishing cloth that came with your Studio Display, Pro Display XDR, or iMac.

This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.

This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.

See you later, dirty television screens. Whether your TV screens are challenged by dust or inconvenient smudges that seem to appear from nowhere, it’s time to adopt a simple cleaning routine that takes care of all that. Get your screen clean pronto, and then kick back and enjoy the show.

Before you start guessing at what will work for your home’s needs, refer to the owner"s manual that came with your television. It’s always best to get advice from the manufacturer, especially if there’s a warranty involved; however, if that document has long since hit the recycling bin, follow these tips and take necessary precautions so you don’t cause permanent damage to the pixels and electrical components.

Different screens require different cleaning agents, and though we address how to clean old school glass-screen tube TVs and glass-coated iPad screens below, we know it’s more likely that you’re dealing with a flatscreen LCD or plasma television. TL;DR: Avoid abrasion. Avoid excess moisture. Avoid harsh chemicals.

Use soft, lint-free microfiber cloths and nothing rough or abrasive. Even paper towels can scratch a television, and plasma screens in particular are very delicate.

Always refer to manufacturer guidelines for cleaning and play it safe if there’s any doubt, especially if the only cleaners you have on hand are harsh chemicals with a bad reputation.

Remove dust with a dry microfiber cloth. Wipe around all edges of the screen too, because dust buildup on ports and speakers can negatively affect performance over time.

Mist a formulated cleaning spray onto a clean microfiber cloth; you can opt for store-bought or try an easy DIY solution, such as 1:1 parts of white vinegar and distilled water, or 1:4 parts distilled water to 70% isopropyl alcohol. These formulas may dry at different rates, so be sure that you don’t oversaturate your cloth.

If you’re using a vinegar- or alcohol-based cleaner, thoroughly wipe down the remote with the damp microfiber cloth you used to clean the television screen.

Big tip: Remove the batteries first so you don’t accidentally turn on the TV (and undoubtedly, push the magic combination of buttons that turns on subtitles and changes your settings to German … you know how it is).

Ichthyophthirius multifiliisis a large, ciliated protozoan that causes "Ich" or "white spot disease." This disease is a major problem to freshwater aquarists and commercial fish producers worldwide. All species of freshwater fish are considered susceptible, and the parasite has been found in all areas of the world in both cultured and wild fish. These large parasites cause the characteristic white spots that are often seen on the skin and fins of infected fish. The disease is highly contagious and spreads rapidly from one fish to another without the need for additional hosts (direct life cycle). Although often considered a "warm water" disease, outbreaks often occur when water temperatures are changing, especially in the spring when water temperatures are increasing. The disease is particularly severe when fish are crowded. While many protozoans reproduce by simple division (one parasite "splits" into two), a single "Ich" organism can multiply into hundreds of new parasites in one generation, making early detection and treatment of this parasite crucial. The organism is unusual in that it is an obligate parasite, which means that it cannot survive unless live fish are present. "Ich" is capable of causing massive mortality within a short period of time. An outbreak of "Ich"is a true emergency situation and requires immediate treatment; if left untreated, this disease may result in 100% mortality.

Although Ichthyophthirius multifiliis has a direct life cycle, it is fairly complex and has three distinct life stages: 1) the on-fish, feeding trophont; 2) the environmental, reproducing tomont; and 3) the infective, fish-seeking theront (see Figure 1). The trophont invades and encysts between the thin outer layers of the fish host"s skin and gills in order to feed on those tissues. Because of the covering by this epithelial tissue and mucus, the trophont stage is protected from chemical treatment. Once the trophont is mature, it stops feeding, leaves the fish, and becomes a tomont. The tomont quickly secretes a gelatinous-walled outer cyst that allows it to stick to surfaces in the environment. The tomont begins to divide quickly, forming hundreds of new "daughter" parasites (tomites) within a single cyst. This can occur in a day or less at warmer water temperatures. The gelatinous wall of the tomont cyst protects it and the daughter tomites from chemical treatment. The tomites begin to develop and become theronts within the tomont cyst. Following a period of days (warm water temperatures) or weeks (cool water temperatures), the theronts bore out of the tomont cyst and become free-swimming, infective parasites in search of a fish host. These infective theronts must find a live fish to complete the parasite"s life cycle. This free-swimming phase is unprotected and, therefore, highly susceptible to chemicals. Treatment protocols should be designed to target this theront stage.

The classic sign of an "Ich" infection is the presence of small white spots on the skin or fins (Figure 2). These spots are caused as the adult parasite (trophont) penetrates and creates a space in the outer layers of the fish"s body surfaces (epithelium) in order to feed on the fish and move around. These lesions look like small white dots, blisters, or salt grains on the skin or fins of the fish. The white spots may not be as obvious on fish that are white or pale in color, or if the infection is limited to the gills. By the time the white spots are visible to the naked eye, the infected fish is very sick. Prior to the appearance of white spots, fish may have shown signs of irritation, flashing, weakness, loss of appetite, and decreased activity. A well-trained aquaculturist or aquarist will detect these changes before the fish"s condition worsens and mortalities occur. If the parasite is only present in the gills, white spots may not be seen at all but fish will die in large numbers. In these fish, gills will often be pale and very swollen. White spots should never be used as the only means of diagnosis because other diseases may have a similar appearance. Gill and skin biopsies should be collected and examined with a light microscope when the first signs of illness are observed. If even a single "Ich" parasite is seen, fish should be medicated immediately because as the infection advances fish may not survive, even with treatment.

While "Ich" can be suspected by the typical appearance of white spots on some fish, a diagnosis requires confirmation by identification of the parasite in infected tissue using a compound microscope. To do this testing, a glass coverslip can be lightly scraped down the slide of a fish (in the direction of head to tail) to remove some skin cells (preferably with some of the white spots) and mucus. A small area of gill or fin may also be carefully clipped using small, sharp scissors. Keep all tissue pieces small to minimize any harm to the fish. Further, it is very hard to view the parasites when examining thick tissue sections. Mount the skin, fin, and gill samples separately in drops of tank or other fresh water on a microscope slide and overlay gently with a glass coverslip. (Do not use chlorinated tap water, reverse osmosis water, or distilled water. Bottled spring water can be an acceptable clean, fresh water source.)

The mature trophont is large, oval to round, dark in color (due to the thick cilia covering the entire cell), and measures 0.5 to 1.0 mm in size. This stage also has a horseshoe- or C-shaped nucleus that may be visible under 40x magnification (Figure 3). The parasite moves slowly in a rolling, sometimes amoeboid motion and, with practice, is easily recognized. The immature, free-swimming theronts are smaller, pear- or spindle-shaped, translucent, and move quickly, continuously spinning on its longest axis as it swims. Theronts can resemble other parasites (especially Tetrahymena), so if only this juvenile stage is seen, prepare a second slide and examine it closely for the trophont stage to confirm the diagnosis. Because one "Ich" organism produces hundreds of individuals in one generation, observation of a single "Ich" parasite is sufficient to make treatment necessary.

Prevention is always preferable to treating "Ich" (or any disease) after an outbreak is in progress. Preventing introduction of this parasite is one of the most important reasons all incoming fish should be quarantined. Transport and handling can cause newly arrived fish who may be asymptomatic carriers (those with no obvious clinical signs) to break with active disease, serving as a source of infection for other fish they may come in contact with. At the warm water temperatures required for many aquarium fish, active disease will often become evident 1–3 weeks after shipping. For this reason, a minimum 30-day quarantine period is recommended for new fish. The importance of this quarantine period for aquaculture or public aquarium facilities cannot be over-emphasized. Additionally, because the environmental tomont cyst is sticky, it can easily spread between systems. For this reason, nets, siphon hoses, and other equipment that have not been disinfected should not be shared between tanks, especially in a quarantine area. "Ich" may also be spread by aerosolization of water mist or spray so nearby systems should be watched carefully.

Once an outbreak of "Ich" is in progress, it is important that a treatment protocol be started immediately. Control of this parasite can be difficult because of its complex life cycle and multiple protected stages. The role of water temperature in determining the timing of treatment application is also critical and is discussed in more detail below. Of the life stages shown (Figure 1), only the free-swimming theronts are susceptible to chemical treatment. This means that the application of a single dose of a treatment will only kill theronts that have emerged from the tomont cyst and have not yet burrowed into the skin or gills of a host fish. This single treatment dose will not affect organisms that emerge after the chemical has broken down or been flushed from the system. Appropriately timed, repeated treatments, however, will continually kill the juvenile, infective theronts, preventing continuation of the infection. The disease outbreak will be controlled as more adult trophonts drop off the sick fish, encyst, and produce theronts that cannot survive the chemical treatment in the water. In a tank or vat, this process can be greatly enhanced if organic debris is removed following treatment. Because the sticky cyst of the tomonts may attach to organic material, cleaning this debris will help remove many cysts from the environment, further decreasing the number of emergent theronts. Any dead fish should be removed as soon as they are seen because mature trophonts will quickly abandon a fish once it has died and begin reproducing in the environment.

Water temperature has a tremendous influence on how fast the life cycle of "Ich" (Figure 1) is completed. At warm temperatures (75–79°F), the life cycle is completed in about 3 to 6 days. At these temperatures, chemical treatments should be applied daily and a minimum of 3 to 5 treatments is required. At cooler temperatures the life cycle is prolonged, and treatments should be spaced further apart. For example, at a water temperature of 60°F, treatments should be spaced 3 to 5 days apart with a minimum of five treatments. Treatments should never be discontinued until all mortality from "Ich" has stopped.

Fish should be closely watched during recovery because the weakened fish may be susceptible to a secondary bacterial infection. Survivors of an "Ich" outbreak may also serve as reservoirs of infection. The immune system has been able to fight and control the parasite numbers enough that the fish will not show any clinical signs even if they have a lower level infection; however, they may be capable of spreading "Ich" to other fish which have not been previously exposed to the disease.

The choice of chemical used to treat "Ich" will be based upon water quality conditions, species of fish to be treated, and the type of system the fish are housed in. In general, copper sulfate and formalin are both effective against "Ich" when applied at the correct dose in a repetitive manner as described above.

Most aquacultured channel catfish in the southeast United States are reared in ponds. For these fish, the treatment of choice for "Ich" is often copper sulfate. The chemical is effective and relatively inexpensive, an important consideration when large volumes of water are treated. It is approved by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as an algaecide in aquaculture systems, and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) currently classifies it as "action deferred" pending further study. The disadvantage of copper sulfate is that it is extremely toxic, particularly in water of low alkalinity. NEVER use copper sulfate without first testing the total alkalinity of the water, carefully measuring the dimensions of the pond to be treated, and weighing the amount of chemical to be applied.

The concentration of copper sulfate to apply in freshwater is calculated by determining the total alkalinity of the water and dividing that number by 100. For example, if the total alkalinity of the pond is 100 mg/L, then 100/100 = 1 mg/L copper sulfate. Do not use copper sulfate if the total alkalinity is less than 50 mg/L. If you have never used copper sulfate, contact a UF/IFAS Extension aquaculture specialist for assistance. Because copper sulfate is an algaecide, its use may lead to severe oxygen depletions; therefore, emergency aeration should always be available. Use of copper sulfate during hot weather or when algae (phytoplankton) blooms are dense is strongly discouraged. Remember, if you do not know the alkalinity of your water and cannot measure it, DO NOT USE COPPER SULFATE. For more detailed information on the use of this chemical, please refer to University of Florida EDIS fact sheet FA-13, Use of Copper in Freshwater Aquaculture and Farm Ponds.

If fish are maintained in a tank system, formalin is often used to treat "Ich". Formalin is not the ideal treatment for ponds, but it works well in tanks. Vigorous aeration is required because every 5 mg/L of formalin removes 1 mg/L of oxygen from the water. Formalin-F (Natchex Animal Supply Company), Parasite-S (Western Chemical, Inc.) and Formacide-B (B.L. Mitchell, Inc.) are all formalin products approved by the Food and Drug Administration. Market availability changes, these products are approved to treat external parasites on all species of fish at all life stages. Formalin is usually applied at a concentration of 25 mg/L, which is equivalent to 1 ml of formalin per 10 gallons of water to be treated. For formalin-sensitive species, a "half-dose" of 12.5 mg/L (0.5 ml formalin per 10 gallons of water) may be used. In addition to chemical treatment, cleaning the tank will also decrease the number of parasites. Sick fish may be unable to tolerate a full treatment. If they appear stressed or try to jump out of the tank, flush the chemical from the system immediately with clean, well-oxygenated water. For more detailed information on the use of this chemical, please refer to UF/IFAS EDIS fact sheet VM-77, Use of Formalin to Control Fish Parasites.

A slight increase in salinity can help decrease osmoregulatory stress caused by the damage to the external tissues of the fish. At warmer water temperatures (75–79°F), use of 4–5 g/L (= 4–5 ppt) salt (sodium chloride) in a prolonged bath for 7 to 10 days is another effective treatment in smaller systems, provided the fish species can handle the salt concentration. Because theronts are intolerant to increased salinity levels of 3–5 ppt, salt is often added to aquaria or tanks that are being treated with formalin to enhance the response to treatment. Most freshwater fish can tolerate 5 ppt salinity for several weeks and many can live in 3 ppt permanently; however, it is important to know the specific tolerances for each species to be treated.

Although potassium permanganate is a good choice for many external fish parasites, the repeated treatments necessary in a short period of time make it a more dangerous choice for control of Ich. Potassium permanganate is a strong oxidizer, and its use more than once a week is discouraged to prevent damage to the skin, gills, and eyes of the fish.

Pet fish can be treated with any of the chemicals discussed above to alleviate "Ich" infections. A number of commercial preparations are available from pet stores that contain one or more of these agents. In addition to chemical treatments, cleaning the tank every other day will help remove cysts attached to debris before the theronts emerge thereby helping prevent reinfection of the fish and completion of the life cycle.

Ichthyophthirius multifiliis(Ich) is a common, ciliated protozoan parasite that can cause catastrophic losses in aquaculture facilities and display aquariums. The most characteristic features of the mature trophont stage of the parasite are a continual rolling, amoeboid motion and a horseshoe-shaped nucleus, both of which are easily recognized during a microscopic examination of infected tissue. "Ich" is easily introduced into a fish pond, tank, or home aquarium by new fish or equipment that has been moved from one fish unit to another. Quarantine is an effective way of preventing this disease.

Once the organism gets into a system, it can cause massive mortality of fish within a short time and, in severe cases, control may be impossible and 100% mortality of fish can be expected. In contrast to most parasitic diseases where the decision to treat (or not to treat) is based on the degree of infestation and other factors, fish infected with even a single "Ich" parasite should always be treated immediately because of its explosive reproductive rate. A single treatment is not sufficient for this disease because the life stage on the fish (trophont) and the stage encysted in the environmental (tomont) are resistant to chemicals. Only the infective theront stage is susceptible to treatment. Repeating the appropriate chemical treatment will disrupt the life cycle and control the outbreak. Daily cleaning of the tank is also beneficial because tomonts attached to organic matter can be physically removed from the environment.  Fish that have survived an "Ich" infection are known to be potential reservoirs of the parasite and may cause other fish to become infected.

With quick response and careful treatment, "Ich" can be controlled, but the cost will be high for larger systems/facilities, both in terms of lost fish, labor, and the cost of chemicals. Careful attention to management practices, such as quarantine and multiple treatments when outbreaks occur, will minimize economic loss from this disease.

Dickerson, H. W. 2006. "Ichthyophthirius multifiliis and Cryptocaryon irritans (Phylum Ciliophora)". Pages 116–153 In P. T. K. Wood, editor. Fish diseases and disorders – volume 1: protozoan and metazoan infections, 2nd edition. CAB International, Cambridge, Massachusetts.

Dickerson, H. W. 2012. "Ichthyophthirius multifiliis". Pages 55–72 In P. T. K. Wood and K. Buchmann, editors. Fish parasites: pathobiology and protection. CAB International, Cambridge, Massachusetts.

1. This document is CIR920, one of a series of the Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences Department, UF/IFAS Extension. Original publication date March 1991. Revised December 2016. Visit the EDIS website at

2. Ruth Francis-Floyd, UF/IFAS Extension veterinarian, Department of Large Animal Clinical Sciences (College of Veterinary Medicine); Roy Yanong, professor; and Deborah Pouder, research coordinator II; Program in Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences, School of Forest Resources and Conservation, UF/IFAS Extension, Gainesville, FL 32611.