sony a7iii lcd screen brands

The lightweight nylon 2215 LCD Screen Sunhood for Sony a7, a7II, a7III, and a9 Series Cameras from SmallRig attaches to the camera"s LCD screen via two touch fasteners. It blocks extraneous light from hitting the screen, so you can view images clearly without any ghosting.

The third and fourth generation A7 cameras, as well as the A9 series, have a built-in viewfinder and a tilting LCD screen on the rear with touch capabilities. There are several settings you can configure to get the most out of your EVF and monitor. Let’s take a look at them.

This article is valid for the following Sony cameras: A7 III, A7R III, A7R IV, A9 and A9 II. Some have different specifications and settings (especially concerning the EVF) so I’ve made sure to highlight this information in the article. The post can be considered valid for previous generation A7 cameras too, although they have less features (touch sensitivity being the most relevant one).

Note: throughout the article, I will mention various pages of the menu system. When entering the Menu, your A7 III will display icons on top of the screen. Each refers to a main section as you can see below.

On older Sony cameras (mark I and II generation), Camera Settings 2 is called Custom Settings, the icons are a bit different (see below), some settings are in a different part of the menu, and there is no title or page number.

Ethics statement: we own the A7 III and A7R III, and we’ve tested all the Sony full frame cameras. We were not asked to write anything about these products, nor were we provided with any sort of compensation. Within the article, there are affiliate links. If you buy something after clicking the link, we will receive a small commission. To know more about our ethics, you can visit our full disclosure page. Thank you!

If you choose Setting Effect OFF, the camera will ignore your exposure parameters and give you optimal brightness and colours for the EVF or LCD screen, no matter the situation you’re working in. The word VIEW appears on the screen. You have to keep an eye on the metering indicator and make sure you’re using the right settings.

The next thing to look at is a dedicated button that controls the two screens of your camera (LCD and EVF): the DISP button. You can find it on the rear, on top of the control wheel.

If you press it repeatedly, you’ll see that the amount of information overlaying the LCD or EVF changes. By default the camera should show you the live view of your scene with lots of information around the four edges.

Note: the information displayed is independent for the LCD and viewfinder. For example, if you activate the histogram in the viewfinder of your A7 III, it won’t appear on the LCD screen automatically unless you press the DISP button while working with the rear monitor.

Overall there is a lot of information that can appear on the screen but there is one that won’t show. You can’t display the focal length on your A7 III or other A7 cameras. The only time this information appears on the LCD or EVF is when using a Sony Power Zoom lens such as the 18-105mm f4 G.

The Sony A7 III EVF magnification is 0.78x and it is the same found on the other recent models. Older bodies like the A7 II have a smaller magnification.

Then we have the frame rate: the Sony A7 III EVF refresh rate is approximately 60Hz and is the only camera here, along with the older mark I and II models, that doesn’t allow you to change this parameter.

Note: increasing the brightness can reduce the battery life a little, but all the Sony cameras that use the NP-FZ100 unit won’t suffer too much from this.

Blackout means that when you take a picture, the EVF goes black for an instant while the exposure is being recorded. You can notice the same thing on the rear LCD screen. This happens with the mechanical, first electronic curtain and electronic shutter.

Blackouts are visible in single shot mode and in continuous mode up to 8fps (Hi setting). With the latter, the camera alternates blackouts with live view. If you set the highest drive speed of 10fps (Hi+), the live view is disabled and the camera shows you the last images taken instead. This also eliminates the LCD / EVF blackout, but you’re seeing what has just happened rather than what it is happening, so there is a lag between your scene and what is shown on the screen.

The Sony A9 and A9 series work in a different way. Thanks to their stacked sensor and superior processing speed capabilities, the cameras can maintain an uninterrupted live view when using the Silent Shooting mode (electronic shutter). There are no blackouts either because the cameras have enough power to maintain live view while recording the images. This is valid in single and continuous mode up to 20fps.

When you bring the camera to your eye, a dedicated sensor on top of the EVF (eye sensor) can disable the monitor and activate the viewfinder automatically. When you move the camera away from your face, the viewfinder is disabled and live view goes back to the LCD screen.

If you wish, you can control which screen remains active manually. In fact, the only way to disable the viewfinder on Sony cameras is to deactivate the Finder / Monitor automatic switch. To do this:Go to Camera Settings 2 / Display Auto Review 1 (page 6/9)

There aren’t specific settings for the rear monitor apart from the brightness adjustments. (For touch screen capabilities, please refer to the dedicated chapter below.)

I have a screen protector on my A7 III and A7R III. They are inexpensive, don’t interfere with touch operation and give an extra layer of protection to the rear monitor of your camera. Check out our dedicated accessory article to find out more.

Note: with both methods, TouchPad on the screen remains active if this option is enabled. You can find out more about the touch screen capabilities further down.

With High, the quality of the LCD and EVF increases because the resolution increases. In other words, the EVF and LCD use the full resolution available whereas with Normal, it drops to preserve more battery life.

You can activate a series of thin grey lines in the live view to help you with the composition. There are three options:Rule of 3rds Grid: the screen is divided into 9 blocks to represent the classic rule of third composition in photography

I always turn this off because I prefer to go back to live view as soon as possible after taking a shot. If you prefer, you can have the image you just captured appear on the EVF or LCD for a set duration (2s to 10s).

When recording video with a S-Log or HLG profile, enabling the Gamma Disp. Assist makes the image preview on the LCD or EVF appear with natural contrast and colours, as opposed to the flat and desaturated look of an S-Log gamma curve.

The magnification assist also works in AF-S mode. Once magnified, you can half press the shutter button (or press the back focus button) to focus while you are in magnification mode. A green cross in the middle of the screen will confirm that focus is acquired.

Peaking can be easier to use when the live view is in Black and White. Unfortunately there isn’t a setting to make the EVF or LCD monochrome. The workaround is to select the B&W Creative Style (Camera Settings 1, page 12/14) and turn On Setting Effect for the Live View Display (Camera Settings 2, page 7/9). This works if you’re shooting RAW files because they are not affected by the Creative Style settings. If you’re shooting JPGs, this is not ideal because you’ll end up with B&W images!

There is no touch shutter mode on the A7 III or other E-mount full frame cameras for example. This is curious because Sony implemented this functionality onto the old a5100 APS-C camera and also the recent a6400. Why they haven’t implemented touch shutter on all compatible models remains an enigma.

If you’re connecting your A7 III to an external recorder, or want to monitor your composition without distractions, make sure that the camera doesn’t embed the setting information you see on the LCD screen, but rather gives you a clean video output.

The rear LCD of the camera should remain active, and you should see the clean video feed on the external recorder connected to your A7 III. From there, you need to set up the recording on the external device. Refer to the manual of the specific model you are using.

Note: when your Sony A7 III is connected to the external recorder, the LCD screen of the camera can go black when triggering the recording from the camera.

If you want to replicate the exact view you get on the rear LCD of your camera, including all the information on the screen, turn On the HDMI Info. Display. The rear LCD of your camera will turn off and you can work with the external monitor instead.

Thank you for your constructive comment. The criteria we needed to meet for this project was to provide instruction on iFixit guides for how to remove various parts on the device. We were being evaluated on the content pertaining to our writing and not the technical depth of the guide. Furthermore, we did not have a vested interest in replacing the screen nor did we have another screen to replace it with. In your rush to make a rude comment, you might have missed the end of the guide where it states that in order to reassemble you must follow the steps we provided in the reverse order. Reverse means doing something in the opposite direction.

Thanks for the quick reply! You’re not the first to mention this idea which gives me confidence. There are no abnormalities from my first few tests, which should say something. I’ve only been concerned that perhaps the LCD was compromised and that it might hinder my visual accuracy in relying on it, however I should be utilizing my Histogram. I guess I’m wanting to ensure the quality is up to par with others for the ~$2K spent and the fact that it’s only partly visible when filming might mean that I’m okay, especially if it’s not effecting usability. If this is normal with touch LCDs then I’m golden and now educated!

Yes, that lines are normal. Below I"m attaching a snapshot of my old iPod Nano"s touchscreen. Same lines are visible but they are much sparse in that screen since it doesn"t need to be too precise.

I"m not a videographer, but a photographer and in my experience it never affected the usability in any way. Hope you enjoy your A7III a lot. It"s a terrific camera. The above shot is also taken with an A7III.

If you are lucky enough to already have the Sony a7III sitting inside your gear bag, or perhaps you are thinking about picking one up, then you might like to know which are the best accessories to pair with the a7III.

I’ve spent quite some time reading reviews to figure out which are the best Sony a7 III accessories to buy so that you don’t have to. I also own and use many of the accessories mentioned here myself with my own a7 III and other Sony Alpha cameras.

Although this guide is primarily for the Sony a7 III, I think it also goes without saying that many accessories here like straps, cases, cleaning gear and tripods will work with many other camera brands and models too.

If you are looking for further help and advice on the a7III or would simply like to share your photos, then please head over to our friendly Sony a7 Forum. If you prefer Facebook then I also run the Sony a7III Shooters Group.

Sony’s official screen protector for the a7III is the PCK-LG1. You’ll find that the PCK-LG1 is labelled as the screen protector for the Sony a9 in many stores, but rest assured this is also supported fully with the a7 III. You can check the compatibility information here on Sony’s website. I’ve been using this screen protector on my a7III since day one. It’s well made and doesn’t affect the touch screen operation at all.

The Lennon Gecco LB3 combines a grip extension and a traditional arca swiss plate. The grip is attached via the a7III’s tripod socket and provides somewhere for you little finger to rest. Both Sony and Meike also offer similar grips but they need to be removed to change the battery. The Lennon grip however also includes an unlock button so that you can change your cameras battery without removing the grip itself. There is also an additional side plate (Lennon LB2) that can be purchased to turn the grip into an L-bracket.

The Sony RMT-P1BT Remote Commander is the newest remote control option for the Sony a7III. The RMT-P1BT operates using Bluetooth connectivity which provides a reliable connection even in bright sunlight or when there are obstacles between the commander and the a7III. In my own tests the RMT-P1BT remote works reliably up to around 18m or 60 feet away from the camera, and this is the case whether you are behind or in front or the camera, indoors or outdoors.

When the Bluetooth Remote option is enabled in the a7III settings the Location Info. Link is disabled. So if you are using Imaging Edge Mobile to record your location information via bluetooth, I’m afraid this will not work at the same time as the remote.

The Sony a7 III uses the new NP-FZ100 which doubles the battery life compared with the smaller NP-FW50 battery found in the a7 II. Still, if you are shooting all day then you will probably go through at least one battery. Personally I’ve never gone through more than two NP-FZ100 batteries in one day whilst shooting wildlife and motorsport (stills) with my a7III. That said, I still have 4 of these batteries just to be safe!

The Sony a7 III does not include the Sony BC-QZ1 charger in the box. You can still charge the NP-FZ100 battery in camera via USB but this takes approximately 5 hours to fully charge one official NP-FZ100 battery, compared with only 2.5 hours when charged via the Sony BC-QZ1 wall charger.

The SanDisk Extreme Pro cards have a claimed read speed of 300MB/s and a write speed of 260MB/s. The only cards that are slightly faster are the Sony SF-G cards, however these have been made obsolete unfortunately.

The Sony SF-G Tough cards should be the fastest, however in my Sony a7III Memory Card Speed Tests the Sony SF-G Tough cards are underperforming in the a7III possibly due to a firmware issue. Therefore I recommend the SanDisk Extreme Pro UHS-II (300/260) cards instead.

If you aren’t happy with the quality of the internal microphone on the a7III and the Rode VideoMic Pro+ is a little too pricy, then the Rode VideoMicro is a great alternative. It’s much smaller and lighter than the Pro+ version and it does not require an additional battery, you simply connect it through the mic port on the a7III.

The Peak Design Cuffwrist strap is a great way to protect your camera from accidental drops. It connects to the a7III via Peak Designs anchor system and the wrist loop magnetically locks in the open position, or comfortably cinches down on your wrist for added security. It took me a little while to get used to the magnetic lock, but now I wouldn’t want to be without this strap.

There are two versions of the slide strap, a full sized version with a strap width of 45mm, and a lite version with a strap width of 32mm. I’ve been using the full sized version of this strap for over a year, but it’s overkill for a mirrorless camera like the a7III. So I’d recommend going with the Lite version which I’ve also since picked up and now the full sized version never gets clipped on!

I own this bag myself although in the woodland green color and not charcoal grey like pictured above. It’s extremely comfortable and the straps are well padded. I like to use this as my lightweight day pack and it will even fit my Sony FE 200-600 attached to the camera (with lens hood reversed).

Sony mirrorless cameras packed full of technology are always going to need lots of juice. So here are your best battery options for the Sony a7 III. For a more comprehensive guide to batteries and chargers for the a7III, see my guide here.

The Sony a7 III uses the new NP-FZ100 which doubles the battery life compared with the smaller NP-FW50 battery found in the a7 II. Still, if you are shooting all day then you will probably go through at least one battery. Personally I’ve never gone through more than two NP-FZ100 batteries in one day whilst shooting wildlife and motorsport (stills) with my a7 III. That said, I still have 4 of these batteries just to be safe!

Important Note: Since firmware version (v2.00) Sony has really gone to war with third-party batteries. Many a7III owners who have updated to the latest v2.00 firmware have reported that they now receive a warning message stating that the operation and safety of this battery cannot be guaranteed. You can ignore the warning by pressing OK and the batteries will still work, however the battery percentage remaining indicator next to the battery icon disappears (rather inconvenient). This appears to be the case for all popular NP-FZ100 third-party batteries including Wasabi, Patona, Newell, and Baxxtar.

If you do insist on using third-party batteries in your a7III then the RAVPower NP-FZ100 are reported to work well and not throw up any error messages at this time. These batteries are also bundled together with a dual charger. Their capacity is 2000mAh compared with 2280mAh for the official Sony NP-FZ100 batteries so they don’t last quite so long.

Sony decided not to include an external battery charger in the box with the Sony a7III. You can charge the battery in the camera with the supplied micro usb cable, but if you want to charge the externally here are your best options.

If you charge the NP-FZ100 battery inside the a7iii it takes approximately 5 hours to fully charge one official NP-FZ100 battery, compared with only 2.5 hours when charged via the Sony BC-QZ1 charger.

The Sony NPA-MQZ1K multi battery kit might be a very useful addition to your a7 III if you shoot very long video sessions and need as much power as possible. This kit can charge four batteries (NP-FZ100) in approximately 480 minutes. It also allows you to power two USB devices as well as the camera at the same time. The NPA-MQZ1K also includes two NP-FZ100 batteries, a cable protector and a mounting plate. You can find full details on Sony’s website here.

You can also charge your a7III via usb whilst on the move. My personal favourite portable charger is the Anker PowerCore 20100mAh portable charger. Although designed for smartphones and tablets, they are also great for charging your a7III on the go via USB.

The Sony VG-C3EM battery grip is crafted from the same materials as the a7 III and it’s also weather sealed. The grip holds two NP-FZ100 batteries, thus doubling your shooting time, and can also be charged via the a7 III’s USB port.

The battery tray does unfortunately feel rather cheap and flimsy, otherwise this is a fantastic grip if not somewhat overpriced. I’m using it on my own a7III and find that as well as extended the battery life, it also helps with the ergonomics enormously. Read my Sony VG-C3EM Review for a closer look at this grip.

If the official Sony battery grip is too expensive for your tastes, then thankfully Meike have a solution. Their MK-A9 Pro battery grip is very similar to the Sony VG-C3EM, yet it’s almost a third of the price. The grip itself doesn’t feel as nice as the Sony, but surprisingly the battery tray is actually better built. The button layout is the same, but it is missing the lock dial on the shutter button, so you’ll need to be careful not to inadvertently press this when shooting in landscape orientation.

Meike actually trumps the Sony grip by providing a remote control that works up to 100 meters with a 2.4Ghz wireless transmission. It can be used to control the shutter in Bulb mode or set interval time shooting (time-lapse). This is really quite useful since the a7 III does not provide any time-lapse functionality.

A lot of people will purchase the Sony simply for continuity reasons (myself included), but if this doesn’t bother you then you certainly can’t go wrong with the Meike MK-A9 Grip.

Although I have plenty of third party NP-FW50 batteries for my a6000/a6300/a6500 and a7R II, I’ll be sticking with the original Sony batteries and chargers for my a7III, at least until the third party options have been tried and tested for a little longer. As if my a7III goes up in smoke due to a dodgy battery, it’s unlikely that Sony will be replacing if for me. However, if you have taken the plunge with a third party battery for your a7 III, it would be great to hear how you are getting on in the comments below.

These cards should be in the joint top spot because they have identical write speeds to the Sony SF-G (Non Tough) cards but in the a7III they are underperforming by quite some margin. I’ve also tested the exact same cards in my Sony a7R IV and Sony a7R III and the in-camera write speeds are identical to the SF-G cards (as they should be). So I’m pretty certain there is a bug in the a7III firmware 3.10 causing these cards to underperform. When shooting jpegs the speeds are as they should be, but with raw files there’s an issue.

Sony’s MRW-S1 UHS-II USB SD Card Reader/Writer enables the fast transfer of data via a USB 3.1 interface. It can read/write to UHS-II SD Cards and is backward compatible with UHS-1 SD cards. It’s been designed with the Sony UHS-II SF-G series SD cards in mind but will also work with other UHS-II cards like the SanDisk Extreme Pro cards. The MRW-S1 together with Sony SF-G cards can transfer files to and from your computer at around 2.6x faster than UHS-1 cards.

The Sony a7III certainly has a lot of technology packed into a small body, although this is great when it comes to travelling light and packing small, some may find that it’s not the most comfortable camera to work with, especially if you are coming from a much larger SLR. Thankfully, as well as the battery grips mentioned above, there are a few more ways that you can improve the ergonomics of your a7 III, here are some of the most popular.

The RRS L-Plate has been designed to fit the Sony a7 III perfectly. You are still able to access all of the cameras ports, and just like the SmallRig l-bracket there is also a magnetic storage space for the included allen key. There is space to rest your pinky finger, and the l-bracket is fully arca swiss compatible. However, unlike the SmallRig l-bracket, you will need to remove the battery door to attach it.

The Sony GP-X1EM increases the height of the built-in grip on the a7 III and gives you somewhere to rest your fingers. The grip is very well made from aluminum and rubber, and it also matches the same color and texture that you will find on the a7 III.

Unfortunately the GP-X1EM does block access to your cameras battery door, so you will need to remove it to change the battery. This isn’t ideal but since the new battery in the a7III lasts so long, it shouldn’t prove to be too much of an inconvenience for many shooters.

The Meike MK-X1EM is very similar to the Sony GP-X1EM grip, but it costs half of the price. Just like the Sony grip, you will also need to remove the grip to gain access to the battery. There is also a very useful arca swiss plate built into the grip itself, which is something that the Sony grip does not include.

The Lennon Gecco LB3 combines a grip extension and a traditional arca swiss plate. The grip is attached via the a7III’s tripod socket and provides somewhere for you little finger to rest. Both Sony and Meike also offer similar grips but they need to be removed to change the battery. The Lennon grip however also includes an unlock button so that you can change your cameras battery without removing the grip itself.

The Sony a7 III has a new touch screen, so you need to be a little careful about which screen protector you put on it. Pick the wrong protector and you might find the touch screen is no longer as responsive as it should be, or even no longer works at all. Thankfully the following screen protectors work perfectly on the a7 III.

Sony’s official screen protector for the a7 III is the PCK-LG1. You’ll find that the PCK-LG1 is labelled as the screen protector for the Sony a9 in many stores, but rest assured this is also supported fully with the a7 III. You can check the compatibility information here on Sony’s website. I’ve been using this screen protector on my a7III since day one. It’s well made and doesn’t affect the touch screen operation at all.

The Expert Shield glass screen protector is made from optical grade glass and hardened it to withstand impact so that it spreads blunt force across its surface and shatters uniformly to protect your camera’s LCD. The screen protector works perfectly with the Sony a7III’s touch screen functions such as touch to focus.

The neck strap supplied with all of Sony’s Alpha cameras including the a7 III is pretty thin, and I don’t find it to be the most comfortable strap for extended periods of use, especially when using heavier lenses like the FE 100-400mm GM (my review here). I also sometimes like to use a wrist strap, or clip my camera to a belt or rucksack. This is certainly not the most comprehensive list of straps, but I’ve been using Peak Design for quite some time now and can certainly attest to their quality as well as their customer service.

Needless to say, there are thousands of cases and bags that could be used to carry the Sony a7 III. Here I’ve just listed some of the most popular, including the ones that I’m using myself.

If you are looking for a small case for the a7III then the Lowepro Adventura TLZ 30 II is a great choice. It holds the a7III along with a single lens that is no longer than 120mm.

I’ve tried it with the Sony FE 24-70 F4, FE 16-35 F4, FE 28-70, FE 24mm F1.4 GM, and FE 85mm F1.8 all of which fit comfortably. With the FE 16-35 F2.8 GM it’s a very tight fit.

I’ve also read that it will hold the Sony a7III with the Tamron 28-75mm but it’s a tight fit. I’ve not tried it with the Sony FE 24-105 G lens but since it’s 113.3mm in length it should also fit comfortably.

I own this bag myself although in the woodland green color and not charcoal grey like pictured above. It’s extremely comfortable and the straps are well padded. I like to use this as my lightweight day pack and it will even fit my Sony FE 200-600 attached to the camera (with lens hood reversed).

There are many different types of filters that you can use with your Sony a7iii, but two of the most popular are the circular polarizing (CPL) and the natural density (ND) filters. These filters are available as both screw-in type filters that simply screw into the filter thread on your lens, and also slot-in filters that require a filter holder. Attaching a poor quality filter to an expensive lens and camera really makes no sense, so here are some of the best filter options for your a7iii.

If you are looking to use your Sony a7 III underwater then you will need to invest in a waterproof housing. There are a few options on the market, but you can’t go wrong with the following:

The Nauticam NA-A7III is probably the best waterproof housing that money can buy. If you need to dive down to up to 100m, then this is the housing for you. Full details can be found on Nauticams website.

The Sony a7 III does not include a built-in flash, so your only option is to go external, but don’t worry as there are plenty of options to choose from.

It has a built-in wireless radio-controlled system, and can be used as either a commander or receiver. As a commander you can connect up to 15 compatible flashes or receivers in up to 5 groups. Full details can be found on Sony’s website.

Sony’s flagship flash is the HVL-F60RM. More powerful than the HVL-F45RM, if you simply want a top-of-the-range flash and money is no object, then this is it. Full details can be found on Sony’s website.

If the price of the Sony flash units leaves you in tears, then you can dry your eyes now as the Godox VING V860IIS TTL is a much more affordable flash option for your a7 III. If you read the reviews on Amazon you certainly won’t find too many disappointed customers.

You can use the FA-WRC1M to connect up to 15 wireless receivers (FA-WRR1) for radio wireless flash control. You can also control existing flash units like the HVL-F60M, F45RM, F43M or F32M over a range of up to 30 m (98.4 ft.). For details on how this works I recommend taking a look at Sony Ambassador Mark Galer’s article.

There are far too many lens adapters on the market for this article, so I’ll be writing a complete guide to e-mount lens adapters very soon. Until then, here are some of the most popular e-mount lens adapters that can be used on the Sony a7 III.

For adapting Sony A-mount lenses to the a7III there are three adapters to choose from. For a full comparison of these lens adapters I’d recommend checking this Sony Article.

The LA-EA5 is Sony’s newest A-mount to E-mount adapter. The LA-EA5 adapter provides autofocus support for Sony A-mount SSM (Super Sonic wave Motor) lenses, SAM (Smooth Autofocus Motor) lenses, and even non-motorized screw-drive lenses (currently limited to the a7R IV and a6600 only) in still shooting modes.

The Metabones adapter lets you mount Canon EF/EF-S lenses to Sony E-mount cameras like the a7 Mark 3. It retains electronic communication between the camera and lens to provide automatic aperture control, EXIF data, image stabilization and autofocus. Metabones regularly update the firmware that helps to improve AF performance with many Canon EF lenses.

The MC-11 Mount Converter enables the use of Sigma EF-mount lenses on Sony E-mount camera bodies. It supports autofocus and auto-exposure, as well as in-camera image stabilization and full EXIF data transfer.

The adapter also supports Sony’s Human and Animal Eye-AF, as well as high-speed continuous shooting (up to 10 frames per second on compatible cameras).

The Sony RMT-P1BT Remote Commander is the newest remote control option for the Sony a7III. The RMT-P1BT operates using Bluetooth connectivity which provides a reliable connection even in bright sunlight or when there are obstacles between the commander and the a7III. In my own tests the RMT-P1BT remote works reliably up to around 18m or 60 feet away from the camera, and this is the case whether you are behind or in front or the camera, indoors or outdoors.

When the Bluetooth Remote option is enabled in the a7III settings, the Location Info. Link is disabled. So if you are using Imaging Edge Mobile to record your location information via bluetooth, I’m afraid this will not work at the same time as the remote.

Another wireless remote control option for the a7 III is the Sony RMT-DSLR2. It uses infrared communication and is pretty reliable. However, it rarely works well from behind the camera when outdoors, but works perfectly indoors from behind with a range of around 5-6 meters (18-20 feet) away from the camera. It will also work outdoors with the same range when you are in front of the camera, and a range of 3-4 meters (10-13 feet) to the side of the camera.

If the Rode VideoMic Pro+ is a little too expensive then the Rode VideoMicro is a great alternative that you might want to consider. It’s much smaller and lighter than the Pro+ version and it does not require an additional battery, you simply connect it through the mic port on the a7III and you are ready to go.

Rode’s latest audio recording system is the Wireless GO. It features a very compact design and offers a simple receiver and transmitter with microphone built in. The two-piece set simplifies the setup process by clipping the transmitter-microphone combo to your subject then connecting the receiver to the a7III.

The ECM-XYST1M makes use of the Multi Interface Shoe to pass audio directly to your camera, so no additional cable is required. The directional angle of the microphones can be adjusted from 0° to 120°, allowing you to fine-tune your audio capture with precision. An included windscreen enhances audio-quality further by cutting down on wind noise.

One of the reasons that many photographers switch to the Sony Mirrorless System and a camera like the a7III is to save weight. A lighter and small camera also means that you no longer need the largest and heaviest tripod on the market to stabilize your camera. As you most likely already know, there are thousands of tripods on the market to choose from. Here are just a few of my recommendations including the ones that I’m using myself.

If money is no object and you only want the best then it’s hard to go wrong with a Gitzo tripod. I don’t own one myself but would very much like to. Gitzo offer a wide range of tripods but if I were buying one I’d probably go for their Mountaineer Series 3 tripod for my a7III.

The Manfrotto Befree Advanced Alpha travel tripod is a special version of the Befree Advanced Lever dedicated to Sony Alpha Shooters. The plate is designed to match Sony a7III camera body to ensure perfect grip, even in the most angled camera shots. The front jut of the plate physically blocks the camera, preventing any play both on tilt and rotational movements, always keeping the camera stuck to the head plate.

The MeFOTO RoadTrip is a great travel tripod for the Sony a7III. I’ve owned one for over 2 years until I replaced it with the Sirui T-025x. It’s only 39.1 cm when folded but extends to 156.46 cm, it weighs 1.63kg / 3.6lb and can support up to 7.98kg / 17.6lb. It comes with a precision matched Q series ballhead and Arca-Swiss style compatibility quick release plate with integral bubble level.

If you are looking for a lightweight yet sturdy monopod for your Sony a7III then look no further than the Sirui P-326. I’ve had this monopod for a couple of years now and would be lost without it.

A cage is an open metal casing for your Sony a7III with multiple female screw threads for attaching a wide range of accessories. This effectively is the first step in creating a modular video rig setup. There are a few on the market, here are the two most popular.

The SmallRig 2087 Cage is designed exclusively for the Sony a7III and a7R III. The cage is equipped with an eyelet for the wrist strap on the top and an integrated cold shoe. The cage is equipped with an abundance of 1/4’’ and 3/8’’ threaded holes. When mounted the cage does not block the cameras buttons, ports or battery compartment.

The 8Sinn Cage for Sony a7III is a CNC Machined, anodized aluminum full-armored cage with integrated accessory mounting holes. The cage is designed for the Sony a7III and a7R III cameras and features a built-in cold shoe as well as slots for a hand strap.

I’ve recently bought the Zhiyun-Tech Crane Plus myself and it works perfectly with the Sony a7III. The Crane Plus introduces follow focus control, an intuitive way for you to control focus during your shoots. There’s a newly designed PoV (Point of View) mode that allows for additional camera movement by providing up to 45 degrees of synchronous motion on the roll axis.

Additionally, the maximum payload weight is 3.2kg / 7 lbs. There’s also an OLED screen that displays camera and stabilizer settings. Other features include a Manfrotto standard quick release plate for rapid camera mounting and a slow-fall function which protects your camera from sudden drops that may occur once the gimbal is powered down.

The DJI Ronin-SC is 3-axis gimbal that is tailor made for mirrorless cameras like the Sony a7iii. It has a net weight of only 1.1 kg, making it extremely portable and ideal for travelling, yet it still supports a maximum payload of 2kg.

There are times when shooting video that a larger monitor makes life so much easier, and sometimes an additional recorder can be useful to eliminate your camera’s internal compression and time recording limits. On the a7III you can only record video for a maximum of 30 minutes before you need to create a new recording, with an external recorder you can record for hours.

The Ninja V displays 10+ stops of dynamic range in realtime from Log/ PQ/HLG signals. This helps you to see your images clearly in bright daylight on the near edge-to-edge anti-reflection screen. You can also eliminate your camera’s internal compression and time limits and record 4K HDR video direct from the a7III over HDMI 2.0.

I recently picked up a Ninja V myself and have been using it to record the viewfinder output from my Sony cameras, mainly for YouTube videos. My only complaint is that the fan is a little noisy and is picked up by the microphone far too easily.

Some good quality lens cleaning wipes are vital if you want to keep your glass blemish free. They are also useful for cleaning your cameras body, LCD screen, as well as any filters you may have.

And that’s a wrap. If you feel like I’ve missed any really good Sony a7 III accessories that are worth including here, or you have your own experience (good/bad) with any of the accessories mentioned, then please do let me know in the comments below.

Both Sony A7 III and Sony A7 II have Full frame sized 24.0 MP resolution sensors so sensor size and resolution is not a differentiator between these two cameras.

Sony A7 III and Sony A7 II have almost the same sensor size so none of them has any significant advantage over other in providing control over depth of field when used with same focal length and aperture.

Both Sony A7 III and Sony A7 II sensors have been tested by DxoMark. DxoMark scores camera sensors for color depth (DXO Portrait), dynamic range (DXO Landscape) and low-light sensitivity (DXO Sports), and also gives them an overall score. Of the two cameras that we are comparing, A7 III has scored 96, 6 points higher than A7 II.