goldline chlorine lcd panel blanks out manufacturer

Just opened the pool and my Aqua Rite LED opens/starts by showing "90P," which is the the "Desired Output" code, which should be the fourth display after opening with the Salt Level. Resetting makes no difference. Do I need a new motherboard?

If the pool water foams when adding water, it"s telling you it has high levels of total dissolved solids (TDS); you need to clean your pool with a clarifier or flocculant. Is the chlorinator creating chlorine? Is the chlorinator showing a "No Flow" when the flow switch is installed?

When on super chlorinate, the cell runs for 24-hours straight. When you select Auto, the cell reverts to the output percentage selected. So, if you have a 40% set as the output, the cell will only run 40% during any given hour. The cell will alternate turning on/off in an hour in any given hour; it would produce chlorine for 40 percent of the time while not producing chlorine 60 percent. You may just be looking at the box when the cell is in the middle of an off-cycle.

I just replaced my t-cell. Display is working, but salt level reading never changes from 2500. I tested input power with volt meter and got 123.1 reading. The power/generating/super chlorinate LED come on, stay on 16 seconds, then go off for about 40 seconds, then back on for 15 - 18 seconds, then off again for about 15 seconds. Round the clock! Help!

Here is the problem: When starting up, the no flow light blinks, then generating light glows, but no "power" light. The generating light then goes off. I replaced the PCB as a lightning storm fried it, Replaced the cell (fortunately under warranty and it was free), did then diagnostic tests and all resistances and AC voltage input was within tolerances. However the VAC coming out of the transformer only measures 11 Volts. I am feeling the transformer needs replacement also. Could this be the issue?

My aqua-rite salt level started showing 2.2 instead of 3200. I don"t know where the decimal point thing came from...I have had this system 10 years and changed the main board twice but I never had the salt level display with a decimal point. My salt cell is only 1 month old. I have disconnected it...done everything. It is still generating because I check my chlorine daily with a electronic device and test strips. Has anyone had this happen to them and how do you fix it. The decimal point thing isn"t going to work for me.

I would make sure that your control panel is set to the correct cell size. This value can be changed by accident pretty easily. You can also try recalibrating the salt level. This guide gives you the steps on how to complete both of those tasks, and a few other things to check: Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System

Did they check that the flow switch is working correctly? Unscrew the flow switch from the plumbing tee and pinch the metal flap and rod together for a minute. If the no flow light doesn"t go out, you have a bad flow switch.

i have an aquarite generator. i"m not producing any chlorine. I changed the cell but the control panel is still doing the same thing - so appears it wasn"t the cell. Both the power and generating lights come on solid green for 15 seconds and then turn off for one minute. During that minute the voltage climbs from 3 to 18. a few seconds after the power and generating lights turn solid green - the voltage drops back down to 3. this cycle is just repeating itself over and over again. Assume there"s an issue with one of the components in the control panel? thx for your help!

Hello Dean- We"d recommend checking the current limiter on the main circuit board. It"s a flat round black disk that sticks out from the board. That piece can crack and cause symptoms like you are experiencing. Click here to view a video that shows the replacement of a current limiter. For more tips, check out the Aquarite Troubleshooting Guide and the Quick Reference Guide.

Items must have original packaging, warranty cards, and ALL owners’ manuals to be returned - without this - they are not returnable. The customer is responsible for the cost of shipping a return item back to us, and all returns must be clean, unused and in resalable condition, including original packaging. Special orders, electronics, and products shipped by freight truck line are non-returnable, regardless of whether or not they are defective. If you feel you have a defective product, please contact us and/or the manufacturer directly to resolve the issue before attempting to return the product to Pool Guy Supply, Inc.Any products claimed as defective and returned to Pool Guy Supply, Inc. are subject to inspection. If the product is determined to be free of any defects, there will be a $15.00 charge required to return the product to the customer.

The Hayward T-Cell 15 (up to 40K gallon pools) is the most common sized TurboCell in the Hayward series of salt cells that people buy for their pool. You’re probably reading this because you either need a replacement or you want to know more about Blue Works cell. I also discuss this in the first section of the article.

In addition, we answer some common questions about this series of T-15 salt cells, such as : When do you know it’s time to replace your Hayward T-Cell? Maybe you just need a cleaning (see the videos in this article).

Note: Hayward T-Cell 15, 9 and 3 are compatible with the following Hayward salt chlorination systems : Goldline AquaRite, AquaRite Pro, SwimPure Plus and Hayward AquaPlus, ProLogic and OmniLogic automation systems.

In 2023, I’ve noticed a lot more newer brands have entered the pool supply market to compete with reputable big brands like Hayward and Pentair. Personally, I recommend buying the original part recommended by the manufacturer. I always choose a known brand over a new brand, and the reason is simple : If the product is defective, what brand do I trust to be around in 9 months and provide the proper support? A lot of customers are satisfied with their purchase from Blue Works, but I’ve read a few complaints about their customer support. Reality is, no company is perfect. I recommend calling the company before you buy any expensive product, and determine for yourself the level of competence from their support department.

Even if you don’t already own a salt water pool system, we have plenty of useful information that will help you in deciding if you should make the conversion. And with over a million pools in the U.S. using Hayward’s salt chlorination systems, you can’t go wrong with the T- Cell series. Don’t worry too much about the risks of running a salt water system in the pool. If you take the proper precautions such as sealing the rocks and tiles, using the right kind of salt, balancing pool chemistry, installing sacrificial anodes, etc. a saltwater pool offers several advantages over a traditional chlorine based pool.

The Goldline series of pool sanitization products from Hayward is designed to deliver industry leading performance along with superior reliability. Compared to the competition from Pentair, Jandy, Solaxx, etc. you will find that the Hayward TurboCell chlorinators are capable of pumping out more chlorine in the same amount of time and have longer lifespans due to the use of higher quality materials. But first, let us discuss the benefits of owning a salt water chlorinator system and how it differs from manually adding chlorine sanitizer to your pool in tablet or liquid form.

While chlorine has been used to kill bacteria and other microbes in residential and commercial water bodies for a very long time, its use has always resulted in certain unwanted side effects. These problems include :

The first two issues can be explained very easily, if you take some time to understand how chlorine works to clean your pool water and keep it free from algae/ bacteria. Normally, you purchase chlorine in one of two forms :

Why can’t we just use chlorine in its natural gaseous state? Well, you see- chlorine is a very volatile element and when exposed to sunlight it will decompose into HCL (hydrochloric acid) and oxygen. To facilitate the storage of chlorine we combine it with other elements, creating compounds that react with water to produce HOCL (hypochlorous acid, this is the stuff that actually kills bacteria in your pool). Ultraviolet rays can reduce chlorine concentrations by up to 90 percent in just 2 hours, and since bacteria thrive in warmer conditions you end up requiring more chlorine even though it is already decomposing at an accelerated rate thanks to the sunlight. Cyanuric acid acts as a “stabilizer”, shielding chlorine molecules from UV rays and increasing the amount of time it takes for the chlorine to decompose.

Too much chlorine can irritate your skin and eyes, but too little chlorine can have a similar effect as well. When you hear about pool owners complaining that they are getting red eyes and itchy skin after a quick dip in the pool, it is often not an issue of too much chlorine but rather too little. Confused? Well here is how it works- at any given time in the pool, we can measure chlorine content by dividing it into two types-

Free chlorine is simply the amount of chlorine that is available to disinfect the water and kill bacteria, viruses, protozoans, algae, etc. When this free chlorine combines with organic matter such as bacteria, sweat, saliva, and urea from swimmers, it reacts with the nitrogenand ammonia molecules within these organic waste particles. The result is a combined chlorine compound called “chloramine”. This is what irritates your eyes and skin, and it also gives off a foul odor. In order to fix the foul odor and low free chlorine content, people often “shock” their pools with a large quantity of chlorine tablets. So, when your eyes burn, the solution is to raise the chlorine levels by 10 times the normal amount to achieve “breakpoint chlorination” threshold which will destroy the chloramine bonds.

A salt cell takes care of the nasty chloramines by delivering a steady supply of free chlorine as long as it is turned on, this ensures that there are no peaks or drop-offs in chlorine concentration, as is the case when you manually add chlorine to the pool in the form of bleach or tablets. A salt cell prevents chloramines from forming by delivering a constant supply of Free Available Chlorine (FAC) which oxidizes the chloramines, burning them off before they cause foul odor or eye irritation. Which means, you enjoy cleaner water that is free from foul odor and it is completely safe for your eyes and skin! No more red eyes or itchy skin, no more disgusting smell of chloramines.

And that’s not all — the salt water actually feels great to swim in. Remember that the concentration of salt is much lower compared to sea water, about 10 times lower. The average salt water pool has a salinity level of 2700 to 4000ppm (parts per million) whereas ocean water has 35000+ parts of salt per million parts of water. Did you know that your tears contain 3500ppm of salt? So basically, it is like swimming in a pool of your own tears. Ok, that didn’t sound very enticing, but you get the point — water in a saltwater pool is no more saline than the tears produced by your eyes. Or the solution in which you keep your contact lenses.

You’ll barely taste the salt when you take a swim. And, the water feels smoother on your skin. Velvety soft, because of the tiny salt content. You don’t have to mess around with chlorine tablets every other week. No more trips to the pool shop or handling dangerous chemicals. Just fill the pool with some salt bags annually, and you’re good to go.

Most salt cell generators last between 3 to 5 years, depending on the conditions such as- size of your pool, how long you run them each day, water temperatures, pool chemistry, etc. Just like an automobile, your salt cell is going to last longer if you take proper care of it and make sure to clean it while maintaining correct pool chemistry. Eventually it will need to be replaced, and Hayward salt cells can last upwards of 7 years in the right conditions. On average, expect your T-Cell 15 to last about 5 years before you have to replace it. And how can you tell if the T- 15 needs to be replaced? Well, there are some telltale signs that a salt cell is getting too old and these are universal across all makes and models of salt cells.

It is often advised that you oversize your salt chlorine generator, because it will last longer. For a given pool size (in gallons of water), the larger salt cell will have to work less hard and as a result it will also have a longer lifespan. Every 3 to 5 years you will have to replace the salt cell, but sometimes your control board may develop issues which will require a very expensive repair. If both the control board and salt cell need replacing, you might as well invest in a new salt chlorinator system. Despite what the pool guy might tell you, a salt cell DOES require some level of maintenance. Scale buildup is one of the biggest concerns when it comes to salt cells.

Over time, minerals such as calcium will deposit over the plates of the Electrolytic Chlorine Generator (ECG). This buildup is hard to notice from the outside unless you remove the salt cell from the plumbing and inspect the internals. Scale is caused by two factors-

Heat: Warmer temperatures facilitate the separation of calcium ions from water, resulting in a mineral deposit on the ECG plates which generate heat while performing the electrolytic reaction which separates chlorine from salt water. Same reason calcium buildup happens in pool heaters.

High pH: NaOH or sodium hydroxide is a byproduct of the electrolytic reaction which converts salt water into chlorine (more on this process in the forthcoming section). NaOH being basic, is going to raise the pH of the water (since it is a hydroxide). Higher pH levels will prevent chlorine from doing its job, since chlorine works optimally at a pH level of around 5 (similar to strong black coffee). The lower the pH, the more acidic your pool water. Higher pH means the water is basic (alkaline). At a pH of 7.2 the chlorine is still active enough to act as a sanitizer/ anti bacterial agent, but once you go beyond 8.2 the chlorine becomes 90% inactive.

When there is too much scale buildup in the salt cell, the digital sensor readouts for salinity levels can be deceiving. Use a salt strip in the pool water to manually determine salt levels. Or, you can purchase a salt meter.If there is a significant disparity between the readout on your control board and salt meter/ strip, it is time to remove and inspect the salt cell because it might need to be replaced. Modern salt water chlorinator systems such as the AquaRite AQR15 have built in sensors to detect chlorine and salt levels, so they will display error codes and remind you to change the salt cell every 500 working hours through flashing warning lights.

Despite the name, ozonators don’t add ozone gas to the pool water, rather they add it to the water in the pipes and make sure no ozone ever reaches the pool because it is poisonous. Ozone does everything chlorine does, with better efficiency. But it has a short half life and is hard to store. It is therefore used as a secondary sanitizer along with the chlorinator, mainly to extend the life of the chlorinator itself.

For the customers who already own an AquaRite AQR15 chlorinator system and are looking to replace their old T- Cell 15, you might want to check out the brand new T- Cell 15LL “Extended Life” salt cell. It is designed to deliver everything the original T- Cell 15 already does, but with an additional 25% lifespan. While both the T- Cell 15 and the T- Cell 15LL can support pools up to 40,000 gallons in size, the regular T- Cell 15 is designed to produce around 580lbs of chlorine throughout its life before it needs to be replaced. The T- Cell 15LL on the other hand, can handle up to 725lbs of chlorine and comes with a 3- year warranty.

Once you have calculated volume of your pool, selecting the appropriate T- Cell should be easy. Remember that oversizing your salt cell is always a good idea, because chlorine requirements can spike up suddenly depending on how many bathers are in the pool, whether it rained, etc. And your salt cell may not be able to handle that sudden spike in chlorine demand, especially if you live in a hot area like California, Texas, Arizona, or Florida (higher temperatures cause faster chlorine decomposition).

Contrary to what some people believe, a salt cell is NOT an alternative to chlorine. In fact, it is meant to generate chlorine by using the salt water in your pool. The advantage of a salt cell over standard chlorination is the fact that you never run out of chlorine, because you are creating your own chlorine through the process of electrolysis. What happens in that ECG (electrolytic chlorine generator) is salt water from the pool passes through in-between parallel titanium plates which are coated with ruthenium or iridium. Some old salt cells may use mesh (perforated) plates instead of solid ones. When a potential difference or voltage is applied across the plates, the salt water passing in-between them acts as a conductor.

Chlorine atoms are separated from the Sodium atoms, releasing pure chlorine in its gaseous state into your pool. This chlorine combines with water molecules to form hypochlorous acid which is what kills the microbes. Sodium hydroxide is formed as a byproduct, which is alkaline in nature and raise the pH. People often add cyanuric acid as a stabilizer to prolong the half life of the free chlorine, and it also brings the pH down by counteracting the alkaline action of NaOH. We need at least 2ppm of free available chlorine to effectively kill microbes.

Automatically converts dissolved salt into chlorine, drastically reducing maintenance time, and avoiding the constant mixing and measuring of factory produced liquid or tablet chlorine chemicals and Cut your chlorine costs over the years by 50% or more

This is what you need to purchase if you’re making the switch to a saltwater pool system. It is compatible with all modern pumps and filters, so don’t worry about installation problems. The AquaRite AQR15 is an automatic chlorine generation system for your pool or spa, it operates off saltwater in your pool and uses electrolysis to generate a steady supply of chlorine. The AQR15 package doesn’t come with a T- Cell 15 so you have to purchase the replacement salt cell separately. What you get in this package is the control panel for the salt cell system which lets you monitor and adjust salt or chlorine levels in your pool.

The AQR15 has various notification LEDs which let you know when it is time to clean or replace your salt cell. It also has a “super chlorinate” function which works like shock treatment, it will run the unit at maximum load for 24 hours or as long as the filter pump is working. This option is to be used when there are more bathers than usual, or if it rained recently. An inspect cell indicator flashes if the AQR15 detects reduced cell efficiency, or if the scheduled 500 working hours are up which means it is time for cell inspection. The salt cell will also automatically shut down if temperatures get too low (below 60°F), and chlorine production will halt. The AQR15 supports pool automation systems such as Hayward Pro Logic, Pentair Intellitouch, Polaris Eos, etc.

I have a six year old Hayward sp3400vsp and they’re recommending I replace it with the pen take intelliflo. I don’t really know if my pump can be repaired or if the only solution is buying a new pump so soon. My prior one was over 12 years old so I’m feeling uncertain. Do you have any advice?Hi Anessa, Hayward VS pumps are known to have Drive Errors, whereas Pentair, I don’t hear so many problems about the Intelliflo. It’s likely good advice you are getting. If your pool is fairly small, without spa and water features, you can also consider using a Pentair SuperFlo VS pump, which has fewer features than the Intelliflo, but also costs much less.

The main panel feeds a Tork timer, which I don’t use the timer, I disconnected the timer motor. {Thinking it could be the timer motor) Problem still the same.

I put a new power cord socket in the water proof box, which feeds power to the pump, I shined up the power cord plug pins), (power cord is about 2.5 ft of 12 Ga, not wet, not laying on the ground)

Ray1davis@comcast .netHi Ray, the GFI breaker you replaced, is that the pump breaker? Most pump breakers are not GFI, it might not trip if it is a regular non-GFI. The outlet the pump is plugged into, I suppose that is a 240V outlet. Maybe you could just wire the pump directly to the breaker? Or to a light switch and then to a breaker, that would be more of a standard installation.

Pump shutoff during 24 hours of pouring rain. The breaker on the panel tripped. Upon resetting an electrical short sound came from the pump motor tripping the breaker a second time.Hi Douglas, it could be the capacitor, if you’re lucky. That is the black cylinder in the rear of the motor, located at 9 o’clock. Replace with exact duplicated MFD numbers. When they fail, they often crack, bulge, leak or smell bad, but not always. It could also be just too much moisture on the motor terminals. Drying off the terminal board may help, by removing the rear cover. Make sure there is no water in the conduit from the timer to the pump, and breaker to timer. Old broken wires inside of the conduit could be the problem. If the motor was submerged, it may not recover. If so, you can replace just the motor, or the entire pump.

Just replaced the upper lid on my Vari-flow and spider gasket, also changed out 300 lbs filter sand. Problem is now the pool will not clean up (algae) and the pump is slow to prime.Jake, sounds like you got the filter up to speed. For the priming problem, you may have an air leak on the pump lid or around the pipe coming into the pump. For the green water, drop the pH to 7.2 and add enough shock until the water turns blue-ish, and run the filter 24/7. If the next day the chlorine level is nearly zero, shock again.

I just purchased a brand new Hayward Super Pump 1.5HP for my pool that is being renovated. Also installed a brand new circuit box to allow for the bigger pump – it’s a 20A GFCI breaker with 12 gauge wire going to the pump. The pump said it came prewired for 230V, but we are running 115V. Upon reading alot of articles and watching videos, it seems the pump came with the clamp on the 115V setting? Regardless, after wiring it up (we did the hot on the bottom and neutral on the top), I put water in the basket and turned on the pump. Since the pool is still being finished, the lines going to and from the pool are not installed yet so wanted to put water in there to test. Flipped the timer on, water shot up about 10 feet and went all over me and the timer and the breaker blew. Let everything dry and put the pump on again and it just hums. Do you think it’s the capacitor and I can get another one from Hayward, or possibly mis-wiring? Thanks in advance for any help you can provide, the pool should be done in the next few days and need to figure out this pump situation.Nick, it could be the capacitor, I guess water got on the terminal board, to trip the breaker. If you need a new one in a few days, I would not consider getting one from Hayward, that could take a month. I would look on the capacitor and order a new one online, with the same MFD number, or call some local electric motor repair shop and see if they have one available.

When I turn the pump on, the Thicker hose Between the pump and sand filter pops out of the end that is connected to the filter. I’ve had the pool for about a month and all has been fine but while I am ordering a new hose is there a replacement hose I can use in the meantime? Or maybe a clamp? Or maybe the glue that I’m assuming is no longer working? It looks like no one has them in Stock and if I can’t filter the pool, then it won’t be usable.Sandy, some hoses are clamped onto hose adapters, using a ‘worm clamp‘ or ‘radiator clamp’ that tightens the hose to the hose adapter. If your hose has union connections that are tightened to connect to the filter, you may try some Teflon tape on the valve threads, or may need a new hose assembly, if the union threads are damaged. Hoses popping off could also indicate a high pressure problem after the filter, such as obstructed return lines, such as plugged or blocked wall returns, or closed valves.

I think I have some air leakage on my supply side of my Hayward Super Pump. I have chalked all the connections and lubricated the basket seal. I was wondering if the Hayward Cyclac Ball Value could be leaking? Do they sometimes have to be replaced?Hi Jim, yes it could be leaking, around the stem that sticks up thru the valve body and attaches to the handle. If you can remove the handle, you can apply shaving cream and run the pump to see if it gets sucked in – put cream around the stem and on both joints in/out of the valve. If it is a union valve, cream also on the union nut. There is an o-ring on the union, and also on the valve stem, and they can start leaking over time. Also check the threaded pipe that comes into the pump, #1 most common air leak.

Hayward North Star replaces capacitors Twice in a span of 3 month now pool pump not making any noise wondering if I can replace capacitor a third time. Not sure power goes to the pump.Hi Tony, there could be a short in the motor, or loose wires connecting to the capacitor, or if the capacitor you are replacing with is not the correct capacitor, or if the centrifugal or stationary switches are not releasing the capacitor, due to loose or misaligned switches, or loose wires, or wires shorting out by touching other wires or the motor casing, or crimped wires… give a good look around the back of the motor, and try another capacitor, maybe call Hayward and ask for the correct capacitor MFD number for your horsepower of Northstar.

My pump seems to trip the GFCI breaker each time it is plugged in. It was off this morning and I reset the breaker. The Aquatrol kind of jumped and the breaker tripped. I disconnected it and plugged the Aquatrol in alone; that worked fine. I then plugged the pump into the outlet and it tripped again. Any ideas on troubleshooting this issue? Thanks!Hi Ron, I assume you have had the system for some time, an it’s just now giving trouble? My first thought is that the breaker may be too small for the amount of amps needed to start each piece of equipment. If it is a 15amp breaker, but the pump wants 9amps and the aquatrol wants 7 amps, (for example,made-up numbers) that’s a total of 16amps, too much. Second thing could be loose wire connections, on the breaker, on the outlet, or on the cords connecting to the pump/trol, or damaged plug ends. Third, is that breakers sometimes don’t last forever, and can be go bad, usually after 20-30 yrs tho. Fourth, bad capacitor on the motor? Capacitor is a battery in the back of the motor, at 9 oclock that assists in starting the motor, if the capacitor was weak, that may draw more amps from the breaker.

We have a Hayward ultra pro lx series pump for our above ground pool. This is our second season for this pump. We recently noticed the plug and cord are getting hot and the rubber is beginning to melt. The pump is working great but concerned about the hot cord. It is plugged into a gfi outlet. The outlet has been replaced and the issue is still happening. Any idea what could be causing this issue.While it is normal for an appliance plug to become warm, it is abnormal for such a plug to get hot. Internal electrical faults in the pump, such as a short circuit or improper ground, also can cause the device to draw more power than necessary and excess heating. Check all the wire connections inside the motor on the terminal board, the 2 wires and the ground wire. Also check other wires in the back of the motor. Then check the GFCI for loose wires. It could also be that the power cord is not rated for 15 amps, which is the likely size of the breaker for the outlet (but check the breaker amp size). Excessive voltage or amps can cause the problem. Check it out, it could start a fire!

I have a Hayward Super Pump Model:C48L2N134B1 that I replaced 3 or 4 seasons ago and until now I have had no trouble out of it. In the last couple weeks it started getting louder at various times throughout the day. Basically it ran normal and then would get loud, and then go back to normal. Today it completely shutdown at some point and tripped the breaker in the house. I reset everything when I noticed the problem. When I turned the pump on it is very loud and the pump is not moving water. Like it is locked up. I shut it down again before the problem got worse.Hi Matt, sound like the bearings have gone bad, and now they are so bad that the shaft has locked up or is binding, and that trips the breaker. You will have a choice of replacing the bearings or having a local electric motor shop do it, or replace the entire motor, or the entire pump. Sorry for the bad news. Normally they last longer…

Hi, my Hayward pump is about 5 years old. It worked fine for the first 2-3 years and then every time it needs to restart, it trips the breaker. Sometimes I am able to get it going by switching the breaker on/off several times, but most times I can hear the motor trying to start for a couple of seconds before it trips the breaker again and again. Once I get it going, it works fine for as long as I leave it on.

My Hayward xstream filter pump is not turning on at all. When I turn on my clock and put my ear close to the clock I hear the clock sound like it’s on but my Hayward filter does not turn on and makes no noise. Any idea how to fix this?Hi Jennifer, many Matrix pumps have an on/off switch on the rear bottom of the motor cap end. Maybe that’s off. Also, if there is a GFCI outlet connected, perhaps it is tripped? Is there any other switch? IF not, you may remove the motor end cap (with power off) and see that the wires are connected firmly. If you have a power meter you can turn clock on and see if power is getting to the motor – 110-120V

I just replaced my pump/motor at the start of this swimming season. I went out Toto shut it off so I could backwash and add chlorine. When I try to turn the pump back on, it only hums.Hi Joe, make sure that the pump shaft is spinning freely. Check electrical connections and wiring for loose or broken. Check the switches in the back of the motor, the centrifugal on the end of the shaft, and the stationary, mounted at 6 o’clock, to look for any loose screws or insects, or mis-alignment. If all good, check the capacitor, at 9 o’clock, looking for bulging or cracking or burned marks. Replace with the exact same MFD number capacitor if defective (they can be tested) – the capacitor is the battery that starts the motor…

ToulaWater at the base of the pump: 1. could be from a loose pump lid, dripping when the pump is off, 2. could be a leaking outlet pipe fitting, oozing from where water leaves the pump, and running down the sides of the volute, and dripping off the bottom, or 3. could be the shaft seal failing, behind the impeller. Search our blog for “shaft seal replacement”, if so.

The pump was working well since opening the pool in May, but the last few days it was quite weak. The box is reading no water flow and psi is just above 0. I turned it off overnight but still the same thing. I took out the filter cartridge and hosed it down replaced, emptied all the baskets but still no change, only one of the jets is pushing out water, but barely. It bubbles and their are very few ripples in the water.

Thank you!Hi Toula, consider that the impeller may be clogged, or you may have an air leak, in front of the impeller. You may be able to remove the basket and reach thru the volute to the eye of the impeller, and may be able to feel debris. Sometimes this can be cleared or removed, without pulling the pump apart, which is def. easier. Air leaks are from a loose pump lid or dry pump lid o-ring, or from a loose pipe coming into the pump, or from leaky suction-side valves (SK/MD). The pump need not be completely air tight, but has to pull more water than air!

I’m not sure what happened. I get home from work and the pump is running. Go to the grocery store and come back and it’s dead. Checked to make sure nothing was blocking it. All cords are fine. Nothing tripped. All breakers are good. Its a ecoclear 1.5hp.Hi, could be a lot of things, first I would use a test meter or outlet checker to be sure the outlet has power. If so, put the meter on the terminals where to cord connects inside the motor and see if there is power there. If so, shut off power and see if the motor shaft will spin. Inspect the capacitor, at 9 oclock in the rear, for bulges, cracks or brown liquid. Test the capacitor for voltage, or just replace with exact MFD no. replacement.

I’m losing my mind. We replaced all the seals in the pump and ran a completely new line even from the pump directly into the pool and it will not hold prime. I even tried running the new line downhill and then back up some to hold water in the piping. The pump works and will pump out whatever water is in the line, but won’t prime and suck the water from the pool. When I take the lid off the pump hopper I can hear the air releasing, and there can’t be any air leaks anywhere as it’s a new line right from the pump directly into the pool. I even removed the outflow from the filter and ran that directly in case the filter was clogged. Still no luck. Please help!Tim, all I can think of is maybe the pump is not self-priming pump? Most above ground pool pumps are not self-priming, and mot inground pumps are self-priming. Sounds like maybe you’ve tried it both ways, at water level and below water level? I like to use a Drain King on pumps that have priming problems, to get them started, get the 2″ model at any hardware store. Put it in the line at the pool, and as the pump begins to catch prime, crimp the hose and slowly pull out of the pipe.Thanks for the reply! It’s a Hayward self-priming Super Pump. I’ll look up the Drain King, is that something like a check valve? I was going to try one of those next, as it seems impossible to keep water in the line without it draining into the pool.A check valve could also be a solution, but a Drain King is different, they are used to pressure lines, for blowing out clogged drains usually, but also useful to pressurize the suction manifold to look for air leaks, or for priming a pump that has issues catching prime.

I had an old hayward 1.5 hp power flo matrix 2 speed pump. It would run fine. I would turn it off and it would hum and eventually start. It was only 3 years old. I bought a new pump thinking was something wrong with pump on off switch. I bought same pump and electrician put on old twist lock cord from previous pump. Third time turned off pump same thing happened with humming and eventually kicking in. Could it be a bad cord?It could possibly be a bad cord, or a bad outlet, or loose wires on pump or outlet. It could also be a bad capacitor, which is like a battery, to start the motor. Two going bad? that would be rare, very rare. Might be some voltage issues? A spike below 100V or above 140V, could blow a capacitor. The cap is located at 9 oclock in the rear of the motor, when they go bad, they sometimes bulge or crack, or turn brown or smell strongly of burnt wires… They are cheap to replace, worth a shot, replace with identical MFD number. You can get locally at an “electric motor repair shop”.

Hi – We just bought a new Hayward Powerflo Matrix pump and filter. Occasionally, while running, it trips the breaker. We had this issue with our older Hayward pump near the end of its life, but it would throw the breaker every time we tried to start the pump near the end of the summer last year. Before purchasing the new pump, I replaced the breaker just to be safe, but it is still throwing the new one. Any advice??Ryan, is the breaker a 15-amp? That is usually suitable, but 20 amp could also be used. There could also be a short in the wiring to the pump, or from the breaker to the switch. Loose wiring, or broken wires, or wires nearly touching each other, and arcing.Hi thanks for speedy reply — the breaker is 20 amp with a GFCI. The pump has its own breaker as well. I will re-check all the wiring. The new pump runs great and only once every day or so do we notice that the pump is off and that the breaker is tripped. If the pump is not grounded correctly, might that have something to do with it tripping? ThanksYes, if not grounded correctly, the GFCI will trip. GFCI’s are sensitive, but for a reason. There may be some stray voltage running around the system, on the bonding wire. Your pump should be connected to a bare copper wire, test it to see if there is any voltage detected in the bonding wire. Pump motors are not normally on a GFCI breaker, unless your pump plugs in to an outlet. GFCI breakers can go bad, but then again, they can be good, and this symptom could be warning you of a potentially unsafe situation. If you have trouble getting past this, an electrician may be a good call to make.

So I installed a brand new Hayward W3SP2610X15 Super Pump Pool Pump, 1.5 HP last season Summer 2019 and used the electric cord from the old one which was showing it’s age. It worked great for the season. As I started to prep for this season, I did notice that the positive and negative electrical terminals on the 3 prong cord were corroded and loose. It appeared that I could’ve pulled them right off if I tried. Anyway I decided to run it and it appears that the pump runs full power with the returns pushing out with lots of force for about 5 minutes and then it weakens. If I shut the pump off for a little while and put it back on it repeats the same thing over and over, strong at first for about 5 minutes then weak. The filter is clean. I have a D.E. filter. I believe I checked everything and hoping it’s just the electric cord and the fact that it is corroded and loose and likely loosing electric current after it gets heated up a bit. The cord does feel warm to the touch. I will be replacing it tomorrow along with the electric socket. I was just wondering if you thought that could be the issue unless it could be something else. I would appreciate any kind of trouble shooting and support. regardless, i am replacing the electrical cord.Mark, if you can hear the motor winding up and down, then it could be the cord. If it’s not the cord, I would suggest the filter, cleaning the fingers with a good soak to de-scale and de-grease. It is a common problem with Hayward Perflex, the symptoms you describe, and is usually clogged ‘fingers’.

My client just had his pool guy open his pool for the summer yesterday and they discovered voltage in the pool. When I (electrician) arrived I was able to measure 38volts to ground in the water when the main pump (Hayward Tristar) is running. They have never had this issue in the pass, a salt water chlorinator was added to the system last year with no problems. The pump was about 13 years old. It actually burned up shortly after my arrival and troubleshooting it. I don’t want to assume but I am guessing the pump was just going bad, thus leaking voltage in the pool. I was able to isolate all the other electrical circuits at the Aqua Logic power panel. I was only able to read and yes feel voltage in the pool when the main pump was running only. The pool seems to be bonded,I did find that the Aqua Logic Panel is fed from the main electrical panel has no equipment ground, when I established a ground, the motor shortly after burnt up, heard a little crakling and a pop in the motor housing, and little smoke (the breaker did not trip, until the pump smoked out it seemed to be running fine, with a normal amp load. Yes this pool was install without GFCI protection, (of course we will installing an equipment ground and GFCI Breakers.) Just hoping for some feed back and the name plate is missing from the Tristar Motor, to actually know the exact motor we have? My client thinks the motor was 1hp, but he really not sure. Good thing is our power company is offer rebates for new energy efficient pumps. Is there a resource I can look at to help understand the enter system, that is control by the Aqua Logic Power Panel. The Pool is a Roman 23 in ground. First, I want to ensure the pool is voltage free, thus grounded and all components are bonded, I know many pumps have a zinc plate that actually bonds the water. I believe there a water volume calculator, that can help us size the motor, the originally company who installed is not in business.Hello there, if he customer wants to install a VS pump (required in 2021 for all new pumps), they could do that now. The Tristar VS would be a good choice and easy to plumb, since it’s the same pump. The regular tristar is only $100 cheaper now, so I’d go for the Tristar VS.

I just replaced my pool pump motor because it was really loud and i figured it was the bearings. There is also a leak somewhere in the system because there is water on the pad. The new pump was very quiet yesterday when I installed it, but this morning, I notice there is a slight medium pitch hum in the system. And water around the base. what do you think the hum could be?Could be a change in vibration, press down on the pump, to see if the tone changes. It could also be due to the air intake, or the filter pressure, Water around the base, check the motor bolts or seal plate clamp for tightness on the seal plate o-ring, and check drain plugs for tightness, but most likely its coming from around the outlet pipe, and dripping down to the base, or from the shaft seal, which leaks directly mid bottom, where motor connects. Or if pump was off for some time, it can leak water, where it leaks air, when on.

Hi Dave..your honest opinion please..new 14000gal gunite pool with hayward sp3400vsp pump September 2014,ran a month winterized and ran fine for 3 years, when company came to open up the pool in 2017,pump stuck,installed new 3400@ $1200. Today two years later, same company opened pool,pump stuck and want to install another 3400vsp for $1330. In my area, the pool gets opened mid May and closed mid September, and runs around 8 hours a day. So in actuality the pump is only being used 4 months a year for 8 hours a day. Does this seem odd or excessive? Another oddity is both failure are upon Spring re-opening,and the pumps ran flawlessly throughout each summer? thank you KellyHi Kelly, the first thing that comes to mind when you say ‘pump stuck’, is the common occurrence of rust building up between the rotor and stator, inside the motor. Happens all the time to pool pumps, and the way to un-stick it is to do some disassembly in the rear of the motor, to get a wrench on the slotted rear of the motor shaft, and work the shaft back and forth for a minute, to break the rust seal, and get the shaft to turn again. I would guess this is what is happening, and if so – your service company is either uneducated or dishonest. If the impeller won’t spin, this is likely the problem. If they won’t or can’t fix it, call a electric motor repair shop to visit, or pull the pump and take it to them for service, or attempt the (easy) repair yourself. Thanks, good question.

Hello. We had a pool built in FL in Aug 2018 with variable speed Hayward TriStar pump. I noticed the pump wasn’t running this week and saw the LED display was off and had moisture in it. I wonder if I should spend the $200 for replacement control board, or if there is a better fix. Calling the pool builder for warranty info, too. Thanks.Hi Jason, I would wait to spend the money, until certain that would be the fix. You can also call Hayward directly for tech support. To keep the water clear, hand feed liquid or granular chlorine daily, and brush/skim the pool daily.

I have my pump to run each evening from 10:30pm to 9:30am. Timer 1 comes on at 10:30 at 1450rpms and runs to 3:30. Then timer 2 comes on at 3:30 at 2250 rpms, but recently (last 3 mornings) when the second timer at the higher rpms comes on it does not prime and just runs without circulation water through the system.HI David, did anyone empty the pump basket recently? Could be a loose lid, or the basket not re-placed properly, and a clogged pump impeller. Can you manually get it to rev-up on a higher speed? Is the water level ok in the pool, and the skimmer weir is not stuck?

I made sure the basket was seated properly and put grease on the o-ring on the cover and made sure it was tight. I then tried the pump at various speeds and it did not prime and circulate the water through the pool. When I turned off the pump I saw that it spit a little bit of water out of a Jandy Valve. Is this enough to cause it not to prime or is there an issue with the impeller?Hi David, yes! When you see a quick spurt or spray of water when the pump shuts off, this is an area where air is entering the system, and causing priming problems. This spray is not usually noticed, unless the pump has been running nearly full-head or full-speed. It’s a good piece of troubleshooting. Look closely at the suction-side (incoming pipes/valves, up to the strainer pot), and shut off pump, watching closely for water spray, or sometimes just a fast dribble. Commonly appears on drain plugs, pump lids, pipe that screws into pump, or on incoming valves, like your Jandy. On Jandy valves, the spurt may be from the lid, or from the center of the lid around the stem, from a broken or missing grease cap (grey valves), or from a crack/damage. If from the top, try tightening the lid with a #3 Philips, or replace the lid o-ring. If from the center of the lid around the stem, you can replace the two small stem o-rings, but sometimes the stem is worn down and needs replacement. IF it’s a broken off grease cap, tap in a sharp screwdriver into where it threads in, to get some bite, and then slowly and firmly back out the broken off threaded connector, turning CCW, then replace with a new Grease Cap, or a 1/8″ threaded plug. We have all these parts here: https://www.intheswim.com/c/valve-parts

I just had a pool built for me. We have a variable speed pump for filter and a single stage pump for cleaner. We have a circuit board that controls these two motors as well as an LED light. While the filter pump runs, you can here a drop for a millisecond every roughly 5 mins. Then sometimes with no rhyme or reason the pump shuts down and will not come back on until after I turn off and on all breakers. Please note the breaker is not tripped. Is this a ground issue or something else?Hi Jeff, can’t be sure but it sounds like a relay issue, a relay on the controller. Should be under warranty – I would call the PB back out to troubleshoot it, or if not possible, contact the manufacturer of the control system.

i just installed a vspnp hayward pump and when i flip the breaker on it only makes a clicking noise. it does not turn on even though i get 240 volts.My blower is on a different circuit and works properly with 240 volts.Hi Freddy, usually a clicking noise may be a relay, which are used in control systems for pools. It could also be a loose switch in the back of the motor. If you can determine where the sound is coming from (motor or controller), that will help narrow it down. Relays are usually small cubes, about 1″ square, sometimes black, sometimes clear, mounted on a circuit board.

I have a new fiberglass pool and ever since I operate it the pump trips the breaker in most cases overnight hours between 2 timing sessions (pump not running). It did never tripped during program. Motor was replaced then gfci breaker replaced to Hayward recommended breaker (same breaker I had first time) still tripping on every 4-5 days , 10 days inconstant times but again 99% of the time overnight. Electrician was here at least 4 times and did not find anything. Strange things that when I have a storm it doesn’t break but I does a day after when day is perfect. We are out of ideas and no one can solve this. Any idea?Hi Frank, two possible reasons might be nighttime moisture (dew), or small insects, both contacting the circuit, on the timer or connected electrical outlet, and causing a brief short, which can trip the breaker.

I have a Hayward North Star that I rebuilt with new motor, shaft seal, all new rubber seals, impeller, and diffuser. Plate appeared to be good. Shaft seal went out twice and I have a groove in the motor shaft now. This is actually the second motor in 6 months. The same thing happened to the first one. Any ideas on what may be going on?HI Mike, the seal and the motor may be separate issues or they may be related. Shaft seals may blow out if a valve after the pump is turned or briefly closed while the pump is running. They can also fail if used on a salt pool (there are salt seals that can be used), or if the motor and shaft heats up to high temps. Check the incoming motor voltage to be sure it is correct, too low or too high can cause problems. If the pump is too large and powerful for the system and pipe size (and Northstars are BIG pumps), the cavitation can cause the motor to overwork.

I turned off my pool at the control box for 24 hours as I needed a union replaced at the salt cell. Flipped the breakers back on this morning after problem fixed. Tonight, I tried to manually start the filter and all I hear is a click in the mother board. Tried again and again to start, but just keep hearing a click sound and nothing happens.Hi Liane, a click coming from a control panel, could be a relay, clicking to send the signal to start the pump, but the signal is lost along the way. If you don’t have a control system, and just a breaker box subpanel and maybe a time clock, the click could be coming from a switch inside the motor, which could be loose wires, low power, bad capacitor, loose switch, or something jamming up the motor shaft or internal fan…

Hi we have a Hayward DE filter for a 20×40 in ground. Filter runs fine at first, but then eventually loses its umph and then the return becomes minimal. I can see the water trickling in to the filter after a while, and the output becomes very limited.

I came back after going out and my older Hayward pump was off. I checked the breaker and plug connection and they were fine. I did notice the on/off switch was ‘mushy’ moving from the on and off positions. Any ideas or what else to check?Hi John, if the outlet is GFCI, check the TEST button, it may have tripped. Just push the red button back in. Also you can test the outlet with another small plugin item, like a hair dryer or lamp.

I removed it and put the old pump back (20 years old), it works and does not shut down. What is the problem.Hi Doug, my first guess would be that the motor was set to accept 230V but was given 115V, or vice versa. New motors are always set to accept 230V when shipped, but can fall out of adjustment, or if you are using 115V, then the motor (if ‘reversible voltage’ motor), the motor can be switched to accept 115V. look for a hi-voltage/low-voltage diagram on the motor label. If that’s not the problem, then it could be that you replaced the motor with a full rated motor, but the impeller (and old motor) was an uprated motor, or vice-versa. Third guess would be that the connections were not tight on the new motor. Motors are hot normally, 140 degrees or so, but if it shuts off and then resets and turns on again after 15-20 mins, it could be overheating, from voltage problems, loose connections, motor board, switch or capacitor wiring problems, or internal winding shorts.

I purchased a hayward powerflo matrix 1.5 pump and Proseries 21 Filter a week and a half ago. Long story short, bought a house that had an above ground pool that would not get the pool clear. After trying every chemical under the sun and replacing the sand, I pulled the trigger and started from scratch. Pool is ALMOST perfectly clear, BUT, for the life of me, I cannot get pressure to stay strong when vacuuming. I’ve tried everything. Everything is Primed and ready to go, soon as I put the vacuumin on the skimmer, the pressure stays for about 30 secs then the pressure and water level drop to next to nothing. I’ve tried setting up the vacuum with power on and power off and it’s no different. What am I doing wrong???Hi Chris, is the vacuum hose fully primed with water before you attach it to the skimmer, you say ‘primed and ready to go’, so I assume so. So, that leads me to the hose having splits, and drawing air in from a few small slits or holes in the hose, or else the hose is crimping due to the strong suction of the pump. In either case, a new vacuum hose of good quality should fix the issue.

I have water coming out the side of the sand filter where u would back wash? We replaced the handle assembly and valve per Hayward tech support that hasn’t fixed the problem. No matter where we move dial we have water coming out the back wash pipe.Hi Keri, I understand, with Hayward Valves, incl the most common top mounted sand filter valve SP0714T, have the Spider Gasket molded to the underside of the rotor. So, if you replaced the handle assembly and valve, aka the “Key Assy”, item SPX0714BA, and water is still coming out of the backwash line…? That’s unusual, should’ve fixed it. Only thing I can think of, is the Key assy aligned properly when it was screwed back onto the valve body? I think it only screws on in one direction, but unscrew it to check… When in Filter Position, water should route in only one direction. Second thought is… are the pipes plumbed into the valve correct? (PUMP and RETURN pipes). Third, is there a valve closed after the filter, or some other obstruction?

Hello, we have a 2 speed Hayward Tgistar pump it just stopped running, I have east the breakers both at the controller and on the main panel, the pump is hot to the touch and will restart after about two minutes then shutdown again. There is also a faint burnt odor,Hi Vic, pool pump motors have a thermal overload switch that will shut down the motor if temps get too hot. Usually it takes about 15 mins, and the switch will reset and the motor will start again on its own. If that is what is happening to you – I’m sorry, but your motor is probably gasping it’s last breaths. Overheating can be a short across the windings, or it can be other major faults within the motor. It can also happen when voltage is incorrect (too high or too low), or when wires are shorting out, or in some cases, very hot weather and direct sunshine and other nearby sources of heat. Blocked air vents and no air flow is also a possibility. Worn bearings can also create enough heat to trip the switch. The burnt odor is not a good sign… a new motor may be needed soon!

Today, I came home to find my pump off after leaving it on this morning. I have a hayward sp2610x15 1.5hp pump that I got in May 2017. It was wired for 230 but only had 115 going into it (we realized this after we had a pool guy come and see it) for a long time. A pool guy who has since stopped operating put it in. It overheated very badly, even burning the hayward sticker off the pump itself maybe a month ago. When the pool guy switched it, it worked very well for about a month with no issues at all. Running very smoothly and pumping very hard. But now I’m trying to plug it in and it doesn’t make any noise at all. Please help! Do you have any tips? Can I replace a specific part or do I have to buy a new one?Hi Frank, so it ran for weeks or more on 115V, when set to accept 230V, and then it started overheating, and then ran great for about a month, but now it makes no noise at all. Is the GFCI test button tripped? Or does the breaker need a reset? Hard for me to say if the motor is shot, but it has sure had a rough life! If needed, you could replace just the motor, and the shaft seal, and save a few hundred bucks. here’s the motor: https://www.intheswim.com/p/hayward-super-pump-pool-pump-motor-1-5-hp-threaded-shaft – and the seal: https://www.intheswim.com/p/hayward-super-pump-shaft-seal-assembly-spx1600z2

My pool pump was running fine until I turned it off. Then it wouldn’t turn back on. So I messed with the wires a little and I got it to turn back on. Ran fine as long as I didn’t turn it off. When I finally turned it off again it would not come back on. Let it sit overnight . Came out tonight and flipped the switch and pump started. It’s running now but when I turn it off it won’t restart.Hi Susan, hmm that’s quite a conundrum! that sounds like loose wires, or broken wires. If your pump plugs-in to an outlet, it could also be a bad outlet, or bad wire or connection from breaker to outlet. The problem lies, where the power dies as they say. If you are comfortable using a power meter, you can measure power at all these points, breaker, timer or switch, and motor.

My hayward powerflo matrix 1.5hp pump doesn’t turn on after working fine the whole month of June. I noticed the on/off switch seemed loose and when I took of the end case, the male disconnect to the switch was burned out. Where can I get a new yellow wire to connect the motor to the switch and see if this solves my issue? Its a 16-14 250 amp connection.Hi William, the on/off switch is sold as an entire end-cap piece, including the rear cover, the yellow wire would not be a part that is sold, I suppose you could make it yourself …?

The pump has been fine since installed, we started up he pool about 30 days ago no issues. Yesterday the breaker tripped. I checked the wiring, replaced the breaker, cleaned the pump impeller, motor vents are clean. Amp draw is 15 amps. it runs about 30 minutes and trips the breaker. The pump is pretty hot. I connected the pump to a nearby receptacle with a heavy duty drop cord and it works fine. The only thing I can think of now is a bad breaker box which is outside adjacent to the pump, it is 20 years old. There is a small sump pump also connected to another breaker inside the breaker box that has no issues, of course it only runs a few minutes when it rains heavy to move water out of the basement.Hi, Heyward (cool name!), it could be a bad breaker, they can fail or become too sensitive with age. It could also be the wiring from breaker to timer, or timer to pump, or just breaker to pump, if there is no timer or other switch (and if there is no other switch, the breaker is likely just worn out from overuse). Could be a short in the wiring that could be tested with an Ohm meter, for resistance. The fact that it runs all day fine with a HD power cord attached and plugged in, makes me think its not a motor issue.