topfoison 2560 1440 1440p 2k ips lcd panel pi made in china

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I have a Pi4B running nanoDLP and have connected a 5.5" 4k LCD to it. However, it refuses to work. The HDMI board LED flashed Blue but does not turn constant or constant Green and there is no image. I have pre-tested the LCD, board and MIPI on my laptop and it worked fine.

I am in the process of doing pretty much exactly what you are doing - even down to the same model of printer! The 5.5" 4K display works fine in Windows 10 but it took me ages to get the display working on the RPi 4B.

The display and controller I purchased were from a Chinese seller and I did not receive any specs with it, so I"ve had to work out all the timings by using the Windows PC, some old forum posts as a guide and a lot of trial and error to come up with a set of Pi settings. I"m not even sure what the supported refresh rates for the display are, but I"ve gradually worked up to 60Hz in my current config and the nanoDLP image display still works.

2) I"ve had weird results printing about 50% of the time (I"m still testing and have only done a handful of prints). Even though the panel seems to be displaying properly when I watch each layer without the vat in place, when I actually try and do a resin print, sometimes it looks like UV light has been exposed through what should be the black parts of the LCD causing resin to be cured in a rectangle the same size as the display. This seems to sometimes happen at the base layer, and sometimes part way through a print, then it sometimes fixes itself and goes back to a correctly exposed print. A print I did yesterday had the fully exposed display problem at the base layers, then some random exposure where it looked like there were some wavy horizontal lines (maybe refresh rate related), then eventually back to a perfect print for quite some time, before no longer exposing any further layers and just "air printing" the rest of the model (possibly just a layer adhesion issue though). Since you can"t see the display when the vat is full of resin I have no idea if the display was showing the correct image during the print.

3) When you choose the "show borders" section of the nanoDLP projector calibration, I do not see a line on 2 of the 4 sides of the LCD - one horizontal and one vertical (I can"t remember if this worked with the factory 2K display though) and that single horizontal line referred in point 1) is visible down the centre of the screen. I think that because the image is "overflowing" off the sides of the screen, the X/Y aspect ratio is then not quite correct for a printed part (ie a 30mm circle measures 30mm along the short axis of the screen and 31-32mm along the long axis - which is the axis I"ve been referring to as horizontal above). I"ve mostly corrected this by adjusting the X/Y resolution settings in nanoDLP but I"m not sure this is the correct way to address this - I think getting the screen set up to show the borders correctly is going to be the correct solution.

It may also be worth posting in the nanoDLP forums (if you haven"t already) to see if anyone there has any experience with these type of displays on a Pi4 with nanoDLP.

FYI the 3rd point. That is usually addressed by overscan. I read that yesterday, though I tried it once and couldn"t get it to work. Obviously, you"ll need to turn off your disable over scan to make it work, and there just might be one other line too. I know the resolution X/Y and X should be the same and it does change the overscan too, but I did read on one of the LCDs I goit that it should be 35.5 (both). Hopefully, this will help you with one of your 3 points.

The odd thing is, I did get the (the, actually mean one of. I have been through so many all that taking out and putting back again) screen to work for a while. It was a bit small but there. Then it stopped. Sadly I couldn"t recall the LCD I bought nor the config as I had played about trying to get it back. ;-(

Be interested to see how you have built your D7. Share stories. Mine is actually 2 x D7s. I used mine and got hold of another base covers (the back and front panels and posts) and mounted one on top of the other. So I have a rather tall D7 plus, with the AC controller on the outside, fixed to the back. I am now 24v DC.

2) When I first power on the Pi, if I have a backlight lit behind the LCD panel I can see a couple of flashes of a screen full of "static" and horizontal randomness until the Pi provides the correct timings to get a lock on the signal, so now I"m wondering if the screen sync is dropping out during the print for some reason, causing the static and horizontal randomness to be exposed in the resin until an HDMI sync is re-established. I"m going to try a different HDMI cable tomorrow and plug it directly into the HDMI<>MIPI board rather than through the M-F extension cable that goes through the printer internals to the back of the D7, which will also allow me to route it far away from possibly noisy power supplies and stepper motors for testing.

Otherwise I"m thinking it could be possibly temperature related. I currently have the UV light source and reflector removed and just have a white always-on LED behind the LCD panel so i can watch what the LCD is doing when running some dummy prints through without resin in the vat - which may also be why I"m not seeing any print corruption issues while testing but then experiencing issues when actually printing.

Although then, without having the dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d enabled, nanoDLP also seems really slow and unresponsive. ie it takes about 5 seconds from pressing the Dynamic Calibration button to actually showing on the LCD, and then if you choose Full White or Boundaries, that takes another 5 or so seconds to display, whereas I didn"t have that issue prior. I"ve also been playing with settings in Machine Settings - Display Engine, selecting a Framebuffer Path (shouldn"t be required for the Pi) and also the Display Power Cycle settings, so it could also be something else I"ve changed along the way that"s causing the performance issues. More testing required tomorrow - I"ll get back to you.

According to the official Raspberry Pi "video options in config.txt" page (which I think I could almost recite from memory by now after the last few weeks of testing

Have you confirmed that your LCD/board still works in Windows after it stopped working on the Pi? Just in case something like the screen ribbon cable has been damaged from all the taking out and putting back as I"ve found they are really fragile.

I have recently ordered a parallel matrix uv light to replace the stock light source and will be going with 24v once that arrives - provided I can first get the printer to actually print reliably with this 4K LCD panel!

After the last message, I hunted down the last possibly working config and the 1st 4k LCD order. As I think that they were the ones I had working. So ordered the LCD from Ali. Should take about 2 to 3 weeks to arrive. I"ll test and revert.

Seems we approach this from opposites sides. I first upgraded the UV using stock D7 plus. then added the 4k LCD and ended up needing to stripe out everything.

Can not get 2k LCD to work always. Seems to work, then stop and refuse to work again and 4K LCD refuses to work full stop. Yes, obviously different config files.

The Pi4 does not support odd timing values such as the 105 in your timing line. As documented, it produces two pixels per clock cycle, and can not split a sync signal within a cycle. TBH This is the first panel I have seen where the total number of cycles per line is not an even number.

The first 3 vary the frame rate field between 24, 30, and 60fps, but without changing any other settings that will have no effect whatsoever. Normally in those situations the vertical sync timings will also change, or the pixel clock.

1. If I changed the "Pixel Frequency" to 555952320 then it works in the formula to give a 60Hz refresh rate, but can I do this or is this something the manufacturer specifies as a capability of the LCD/HDMI board? I do not understand the technology that sits behind all this and the values and formula. However, if I can then the line would be....

I know this is an idiot output because I do not know what I am doing here. Sorry. But why am I getting these responses, and what should I be typing/doing, please?

I have managed to get the 4k LCD screen sort of working. Looking at the screen in panorama with the cables to the left; the top half running left-right and above the midpoint, I get the check pattern in "Setup" -> "Display Calibration", but the bottom half is missing, just a blank screen. Please see the attached image.

I do have my SDCard I got with my Pi4, and have used it to test the Pi, but have not tampered with it, trying to keep it as out of the box as I could, but I note what you say and will try, later and revert.

We can only work with the information given. Raspberry Pi OS is the main platform we"re supporting. Using any other distribution just makes life harder.

OK, so just put in the Pi SDCard and realized that I can"t test it. I have no way of seeing the screen as I have no control over the UV light. I do know it is not working at the most basic level as the HDMI board is flashing blue which means it is not being recognised.