diy lcd panel case free sample

I saw a really cool video of a PC case called "Snowblind", that had a transparent LCD Screen as a side panel. I was amazed over how cool it was. The only problem was that it was really expensive. Therefore, I tried making my own! In this instructables I will go through how I made it, and how you could make your own. The best of all, since it was made from an old monitor that was thrown away, it was basically free! I just added some LED strips on the inside of the case to get better contrast on the screen. You could probably re-use the monitors backlight, but it"s safer and easier to just get some cheap LED strips.

First, remove the frame of the panel. It is fixed with clips, so just bend the frame a little and lift the frame up. Next, separate the front LCD from the backlight. For the next step, you will have to be careful. This step involves removing the anti glare film. It is glued to the panel, and therefore it"s easy to break the LCD when trying to remove it.

Then you are done modding the LCD! Now, you can hook it up to the panel and test it. Just be careful with the ribbon cables going from the LCD PCB to the panel.

The side panel of this case fits the LCD perfectly. Just line it up to the side facing the back, and to the top, and use some tape to tape it to the glass. Then, use some vinyl on the outside where the LCD is not covering the glass.

It"s really important to have lots of lights inside the case, to make it easier to see the LCD. Therefore, try to fill the case with even more LED strips.

You are now ready to assemble everything. In this case, the controller fit nicely in the hard drive compartment, so I glued it there and fed the ribbon cable through the hole in the inside of the case. That way it was pretty much hidden inside the case.

Now you can carefully mount the side panel back on the computer. You might have to drill a new hole for the thumb screw in the back to make it fit properly.

I have the same problem, I have read on google that the lcd could also be 3,3v (check if you have 3.3v lanes) so i will be trying to solder a sata cable to it because it comes with 3,3 and 5v connectors but the im not sure if save to use sata cables0

Hey I have a little question, I also have a Dell 1905FP, but I think it"s an older model because I don"t have a ribbon cable but a normal cable with a plug. My problem is that I have peeled off one film but it still looks like there is a second film on the back because it is still a little blurry. But I"m afraid that if I try to pull them off, my LCD display will break. Maybe you have an idea. Thanks in advance

Great tutorial and video! I"m trying my hand at replicating your process and I even got my hands on the exact monitor. I have reached the point where I"ve disassembled the panel and controllers, and discharged the capacitors from the PSU, but I am a little stuck at this point because I don"t know how to wire up the molex header. I watched your video and saw that you had two wires soldered to the power connector. Which connectors are they and where do they go on the molex cable? Thank you!

Really neat. I saw the same snowblind case and wanted it but too expensive. I also saw someone who made their own using a USB monitor. But I like your setup better.2

Terrific job! May I ask why you would need to remove the front polarizer? If my understanding is correct, both the front and back polarizers are needed in order for the LCD to work properly (i.e., the light gets polarized by the back polarizer first, and then passes through the front polarizer)? You comments will be appreciated!

Hey, great work on this project. I wanted to buy the snowbind case but couldn"t justify the cost. I have the same case and I ended up picking up the same monitor that you used in your project.

Is it possible that you post or send me photos of the inside of the case when you have this installed? I"m just a bit confused on how you wired up everything?

I tried taking some photos, but I have covered the screen PCB with a cover, so it was hard to see in the photos. I basically just laid it inside the case with a 90-degree angle. I tried drawing it here: (view from the front)0

I think you should have more pics and info about the re- mounting the LCD. After all if you don"t do it right all that work is for nothing. While I understand your wiring diagram, I think that it should be explained and a larger part of this Instructible...for example to get white lite your are powering all 3 lanes (red,green,blue) on the RGB tape.

Hello, Wonderfull project, I have the same case and I would love to do it (if I have time and the screen to the right size). Just a question, can you put a photo of the cable connection to see if it"s easy to open the case ? One little suggestion, instead of connecting the panel to the graphic card (which mean to run a cable outside, why don"t you use a USB to VGA or DVI converter (like this https://www.amazon.fr/Adaptateur-convertisseur-adaptateur-Affichage-multi-écrans/dp/B079L81FRD/ref=asc_df_B079L81FRD/?tag=googshopfr-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=227894524041&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17927658121409960098&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9055710&hvtargid=pla-442905712462&psc=1) ?More CommentsPost Comment

The Hyte Y60 is one of the best PC cases on the market, and it’s getting a big upgrade in the form of an official DIY mod kit. TheHyte Y60 LCD DIT kit is available now for $120, allowing you to replace one of the tempered glass panels of the case with a programable screen.

If you frequent PC builds on Reddit or Instagram, you’ve probably seen this mod before. For months, community members have bought screens that fit in the gap in Hyte’s case and used community 3D-printed mounts to attach them. In a Reddit thread several months back, in fact, the company responded to a user’s build with “THIS IS SO COOL.”

The screen comes with a resolution of 1920 x 515, and it’s not something you can control through software. Instead, the included driver board includes a mini HDMI connection that you’ll need to route through your PC and connect to your graphics card. After that, the panel will show up as another monitor in your operating system.

Originally, the mod was made for Aida64’s SensorPanel software, which allows you to display sensors like system utilization, CPU speed, and temperature in custom themes. You can still download and use these themes with Hyte’s DIY kit, but you can also display images, videos, or anything else you want.

The LCD kit was among Hyte’s CES 2023 announcements. The company also announced the new Hyte Y40 case, which is a slimmed-down version of the wildly popular Y60. Instead of the dual-chamber design of the Y60 and fish tank-like look, the Y40 opts for a traditional power supply basement and a slimmer form factor.

Although it’s smaller overall, the Y40 actually has more space for your graphics card, which could make a big difference with GPUs like the RTX 4090. The vertical GPU mount includes four slots as opposed to the three slots on the Y60. The case is also $50 cheaper, clocking in at $150.

My DIY Display Case patterns and cut files for this project are free for you to use. You can get them either as a printable PDF or as an SVG cut file to use in a cutting machine like a Cricut. I will show you how to cut this DIY display case using a Cricut Explore cutting machine in this tutorial.

The pattern file contains three sizes of display cases -- one 3x3 cubbie case that could hold 10 Cricut Cuties (or anything about 3 inches or less), one 2x2 cubbie case that could hold 4 Cricut Cuties, and one 2x2 cubbie case that could hold4 Funko Pop figures (or anything 4.75" or less).

Download the DIY Display Case patterns (design #279) from myfree resource library(get the password to the library in the form at the bottom of this post).

For this photo tutorial, I will cut the DIY display case pattern with the 3x3 cubbies. If you cut the 2x2 display case, follow the same steps and just note that you"ll have two less pieces (one horizontal "floor"and one vertical "wall") to fold and attach.

First, decide what colors you want your pieces to me. If you"re going to use all white paper, change all layers to the same color to maximize cuts on paper. You can do this easily in the Color Sync panel — just drag layers onto the same color to change them quickly. For this tutorial, I will cut my pieces out of the same colors you see in the pattern file (white, yellow, pink, orange, blue, and green) so it"s easier for you to understand which piece I am working with.

First, fold all of your scored pieces in half (10 total pieces for this 3x3 cubbie display case, 8 total pieces for the 2x2 cubbie case) along the score line. Use your scraper tool to make sure the fold is really crisp. (Do not fold the tabs yet.)

Insert the other floor pieces into your display case, sliding their slots over the side pieces and insert their tabs into the slots on the square piece. Fold their tabs down in the back to lock everything in place.

And if you plan to hang this DIY display case, it"s not a bad idea to glue on the little piece with a hole in it onto the back, matching it up to the hanger piece at the top of the attic.

Keep in mind that since we used paper rather than something stiffer, there is a bit of flex still and your items may want to "bounce" in their rooms if you move or bump the display case. If this is an issue, use a little double-stick tape or poster putty to keep your items in their rooms!

i have completed the diy dakboard and im having a issue where i have to expand the browser to full screen after it boots and loads the browser. Any idea’s? Thank you David

I started on a RPi 3 but have moved it to a Pi Zero with the same image and it’s working. It’s seems a bit slow in that there is a 6-8 second freeze when the photo changes. I’m not sure why but I’m going to work further on it. If I can get that ironed out I’m going to look at mounting the zero inside the screen case as there’s enough empty space

Oh goodness! I am in over my head! I have never programmed a raspberry pi (or programmed anything really), but I got one just to do this dakboard DIY project. I followed the steps above (well, I thought I did ), and upon rebooting, I was greeted with the “There is no internet connection” message. DOH! Now, I don’t know how to get back to the “regular” GUI place so that I can try to trouble-shoot the code. Can someone help me out?

Thanks for the great DIY article. One of the challenges I’m facing is in making the install more streamlined. To do this, I’d prefer to have the same power source powering the Raspberry Pi. I’m considering hard-wiring the Pi to the power supply within the monitor, but wanted to get your thoughts on that approach or if other approaches exist.

The body of the case is 3D printed and it has clear acrylic sides so that you’re able to see into it. I’ve used an Ice Tower to cool the CPU, but have mounted the fan onto the side of the case rather than on the heatsink.

I’ve also included an OLED display on the front of the case which displays the Pi’s IP address and some stats like the CPU, storage and memory usage, and the CPU temperature.

I’ve also put together a pack with some additional case variations which is available through this link – Additional 3D Print Files. This pack includes:

I drew a rough outline of the case and then positioned the Raspberry Pi within the case so that the USB and Ethernet ports are available through the front and the Power, HDMI, and audio ports are accessed through the side panel.

The OLED display is positioned on the front of the case above the ports. The OLED display will be held in place with two small clips on the top edge and a screw with a plastic clip at the bottom, a design which I’ve used before on my Arduino based reaction timer.

I don’t remove the SD card on the back of the Pi very often, so I didn’t add a cut-out for it. If you do, then just add a circular cut-out to the case at the back so that you can still access it. It is going to be a bit of a chore to swap the SD card if you don’t have this cut-out as you’ll need to remove the Pi from the case to access it, I’m happy with doing this if I ever need to change the card.

I 3D printed the Raspberry Pi 4 Desktop Case using Black PLA with a 0.2mm layer height and 15% infill. I also added print supports for the cutouts for the display and ports on the front. You’ll probably need to add these as well, which is easy to do in your slicing software. You’ll also need to print the small plastic display clamp.

Now that the main body of the case is complete, let’s mount the Raspberry Pi into it. Start by screwing the brass standoffs into the holes in the base.

I’ve just changed the orientation of the screws and standoff mounts supplied with the Ice Tower so that they screw straight into the bottom of the case and don’t require and through holes. If you follow the Ice Tower installation manual, you’ll notice that the standoffs and screws are installed the opposite way around.

Next, we need to remove the fan from the Ice Tower so that we can attach it to the acrylic side panel. By moving the fan onto the side panel, we make sure that cool air is being drawn in from the outside of the case and then has to leave from the exhaust air vents on the opposite side.

Now we need to install the OLED display onto the front panel. If your display came without the pins soldered into place, solder them onto the back of the display.

I started in Tinkercad again and positioned a block in the case roughly where the Ice Tower heat sink is going to be so that the holes for the fan are in the correct place on the side panels. I then exported the side profile of the case and heat sink to open up in Inkscape to draw the laser cutting profile.

We can remove the inside edge profile as we only need the outline of the case and the screw holes. We need to add a hole for the fan and the four surrounding holes for the fan screws. We’ll also need to add cut-outs for the ports along the side of the Raspberry Pi.

To mount the fan onto the side panel, you’ll need to press some M3 nuts into the pockets by the screw holes. It’s easiest to place the nut on a flat surface and then press the fan hole over the nut to push it into place. These are tight so that you don’t need to use a spanner to hold them when you tighten the screws.

If you want to re-use the fan screws, they’ll be too short to fit through the acrylic and fan and then into the nuts, you’ll need to press the nuts into the front (acrylic side) of the fan. You’re relying on the friction between the nut and the fan to hold it in place, but it works fine in this case as there isn’t much load on them.

I’ve also made an Ice Edition of this case using white PLA for the case and a blue-tinted acrylic for the side panels. This Ice Edition Kit is available through my Etsy store.