audi tt mk1 lcd display replacement free sample

Tonight’s project is fitting immo 3 sport faces onto an immo 2 cluster with some “knockoff” R32 needles and blue LEDs. Immo 2 and 3 have EPC and immo light icons in different spots and the center warning lights are slightly different. Here in North America we never got a sport version of immo 2 faces but Europe did so those would be direct swap. But in this case I just moved the LEDs to their respective immo 3 locations (not the cleanest method but one I’ve been doing for yea…

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It all started in the summer of 2020, when I bought an Audi TT 2002. Unlike my previous cars, it didn’t have a digital speedometer in the instrument cluster’s little LCD-display (Driver Information System DIS in Audi). Due to the lack of digital speedometer, I decided to implement it myself. To cut a long story short, I thought I could take advantage of existing GitHub-project[1]and wrote the code for that setup first. Though I soon realized the setup used in the existing project was different to mine, so I had to start it all over.

Audi TT"s DIS-display shows the radio station or the CD-track in the upmost third of the display. My plan was to replace the radio info with digital speedometer. From the previously mentionedprojectI found out that the radio sends information to the instrument cluster via three one-way data wires. When I pulled my radio out, I found out that my radio didn"t use these three wires, but CAN bus instead.

Before I tapped into CAN bus with Arduino, my plan was to acquire the vehicle speed signal from the radio"s GALA-wire (Graduated Audio Level Adjustment). GALA increases radio volume automatically according to vehicle speed. Since my car has CAN bus, there is no need for GALA-wire and the instrument cluster sends vehicle speed data on the bus every 200 ms. I"m used these CAN-messages in my digital speedometer solution.

After doing a little research on the CAN bus (especially in VW-group cars), I found out that the bus used in my car was a so called Fault Tolerant CAN bus[4]. For me it meant that I couldn"t use off-the-shelf CAN-shields for Arduino.

I designed the circuit board in Autodesk Eagle. I didn"t pay too much attention to the circuit board design specifics, because I knew that manufacturing and shipping of the board would take its own time. I ordered the printed circuit board fromItead.cc.

I found Audi CAN bus message identifier list onCanhack.de[7] and I found the IDs for the first and second text line of the DIS. I also discovered the ID for vehicle speed information ontxboard.de[8].

0x635radio illumination (length: 3 bytes; from left to right: radio display backlight, radio buttons backlight, (?); (dimmest 0x0 - brightest 0x64)

I"ve had to replace the instrument cluster in my 2001 Audi TT Quattro because of a parasitic battery drain. My original cluster is in good shape otherwise; I had the LCD replaced last year and I replaced the stepper motors directly afterward. If not for the parasitic draw, it was perfect.

This is the replacement cluster. It"s for a 2000 model but made in April of 2004. Either a replacement cluster that some poor owner paid for, or a recall replacement cluster. Either way, its 16 years old and not 21.

I am sending it out to have the LCD screen replaced but before I do that, I"ve decided to replace the stepper motors and swap over the mounts from my original cluster.

If a Google search brought you here, you probably know why you need to replace these. But if you didn"t, here"s why: The fuel gauge and temperature gauge in the instrument cluster are electrically driven using stepper motors. When those motors begin to fail, you"ll end up with a gauge that sticks at the top or bottom of its swing, one that is erratic, or one that moves inconsistently. Often, replacing the stepper motor resolves the issue. Fortunately, replacing those stepper motors is straightforward and easy to do.

Replacement stepper motor (2) - I bought these from Tanin Auto Electronix. They are P/N TAEAUDI500-035 and were about $30 each. You"ll need two if you want to replace both the fuel gauge and the temperature gauge (you should do both if you do one).

A scan tool capable of putting the dashboard module into diagnostic mode. I"m using an Autel MaxiDAS. There are alternative methods I"ll discuss later, which will let you install needles without a scan tool but it is a trial and error process.

The stepper motors are attached to the circuit board. To get at them, we need to disassemble the cluster. For that, all you"ll need are a T10 Torx bit and a plastic smudger.

Use the T10 bit to remove the eight (8) Torx screws holding the white plastic back to the black plastic bezel. The bottom two Torx screws secure the spring for the vinyl steering wheel cover (thing). When removing those, keep an eye on the screws. They can shoot across the room when the spring compresses.

Each stepper motor is clipped to a pair of bosses which extend up from the circuit board. These bosses are white plastic and can be brittle. I"ve found that the easiest way to remove the motor is to use a pair of needle nose pliers and snap the little clips off where they attach to the circuit board. This will allow them to be lifted upward without risk of damage to the mounting bosses.

Once the little clips are broken, slip the smudger under the edge of the motor and pry upward. They should pop upward and come free of the board. Note that each contains a 3-pin connector which extends down into the circuit board. When lifted, that connector will come free as well.

Repeat this process until the needles point to the half-way point when the test is run. When you"re happy with the position of the needles, push them in place with the silver center portion sitting about a mm above the gauge face.

Reinstall the cluster in the car and keep an eye on the fuel and temperature gauges for a few days and make sure they are functioning correctly and pointing at the correct positions. If so, call this one done. If not, you"ll have to pull the cluster back out and go through the needle setting process again.

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Seats with worn bolsters or broken heating elements aren’t worth messing about with – decent replacements are plentiful and an easy swap. However the coloured ones, especially red leather, seem increasingly scarce.

Despite what pub experts tell you, a TT isn’t full time four-wheel drive. It’s predominantly front-wheel drive and uses an electronically controlled Haldex unit to send power to the back wheels when slip is detected.

If you intend to use your TT on track then you might find the four-wheel drive kicking in and out quite disconcerting, especially on tight, twisty circuits. The solution is either an electronic Haldex controller or a cheap and cheerful one-way valve that locks the 4WD in the ‘on’ position once it’s kicked in.

Check the washer jets, (referred to by TT fans as ‘aliens’!) are working – they’re an MoT fail if not on all cars with xenons (all 225s). And make sure the engine undertray is in place and properly affixed.

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In the event of your unit being non-repairable and you decide to purchase a replacement unit, we will assume you do notwant your original unit shipped back to you.

Work Completed: Fitted new spark plugs as part of the process to start the engine after having sat idle for over a decade, replaced the missing primary and secondary clutch cylinders with period correct metal units, refurbished the external chrome brightwork using a spray chrome process, replaced the front drum brakes with disc brake units including new CV joints, skimmed the cylinder head for higher compression, added lead free valve seats for unleaded fuel, ported the head, added a new carburettor, camshaft, exhaust manifold and oil temperature gauge and repainted the engine bay and wheels.

Notes: Bought from a private seller in Chepstow, whose family had owned the car since new. The car had not been driven on the road since 2006, so Mike began with a primer on how to safely start the engine. Mike mentioned there were only 81 Mini 850 MK1s registered in the UK. The car achieved an indicated 90 mph after the engine improvements. Sold at asking price.

Notes: Mike noted that the previous owner swapped the original burr walnut dashboard with an aluminium one. Marc discovered that it had the rarer and more desirable 4.3 liter engine, while Mike"s conference call with a former TVR works driver revealed that the car was a former demo car and originally had a 4.0 liter engine but rebuilt in-house with a 4.3 liter after the old engine knocked. Camshaft replacement adds 20 horsepower to the engine. Sold at asking price.

Notes: Mike named the car "Colin". Originally, it had a 4-speed transmission, but at some point it was swapped to a 3-speed unit by the previous owner. Replacement canopy sourced from Dormobile. Sold at asking price to a buyer who is expecting his granddaughter.

Work Completed: Engine cylinders rebuilt with new, nickel ceramic-plated aluminium wet-type cylinder liners and pistons to address bore scoring, new IMS bearing fitted, crankshaft bearings replaced, new crankshaft installed, worn hoses and pipes replaced, retro styling parts consisting of replica Fuchs alloy wheels, fiberglass boot lid with ducktail spoiler, and decal kit installed.

Work Completed: Carburetor refurbished with new diaphragm and gaskets to address stalling, valves re-adjusted, new hoses and rocker cover installed, exhaust manifold ceramic coated to address hot start issue, aftermarket intercooler replaced with standard one, refurbished Phase 2 wheels installed, period correct Avon tires installed, seats recovered with Phase 2 fabric pattern, front bumper fixed using a part from a donor bumper, new fog lights installed.

Notes: Bought from Topcats Racing, which Mike visited during the TVR Griffith episode, where the car belonged to the shop owner"s wife and was originally a birthday present. Marc reminisces his younger days, where he initially dreamed of a Renault 5 GT Turbo, but settled for a naturally-aspirated GTE model because he couldn"t insure the GT Turbo. Brought back to near-standard condition. Restored car taken to Donington Park to be presented back to the seller at her birthday.

Notes: Non-running unit that Mike bought online, with various engine bits stowed at the boot. Mike had to source a replacement block after Marc discovered that a snapped conrod punched a hole on the block. Marc points out a common modification among Lancer Evolution owners, which is relocating the active yaw control pump to the car"s boot for added durability. Restored car brought to a modified car meet in Birmingham and sold at asking price.

Work Completed: Rusted rear wheel arch patched with parts from a replacement wheel arch, stock suspensions replaced with adjustable aftermarket coilovers, wheels refurbished by repainting the wheel and diamond-cutting the rim, electric convertible roof re-wired, cracked windscreen replaced, leather seats recolored, exterior polished.

Notes: Limited edition "Color Concept" variant with yellow paint and trim. Bought on behalf of Marc as it reminds him of his very first car, a bright yellow Volkswagen Beetle. Seller provided a brand-new replacement windscreen as part of the deal. Marc noted the car"s rarity, as there are only 4 bright yellow Golf of similar type is still on the road. Mike introduced the process of connollising, a leather restoration method named after the Connolly Leather. In order to enable the convertible top to work, Marc re-wired the mechanism so the roof can only be lowered if the driver steps on the brake pedal.

Notes: Bought from Mike"s regular electrician who had owned it for years. Mike heads to Hertfordshire to repair the delaminated vinyl upholstery on the door cards and to Birmingham to source additional replacement parts for the Escort.

Notes: Left-hand drive unit bought in Kettering, Northamptonshire from an importer. Mike uses soda blasting to strip the car, as it is better for the Fiat"s delicate metal. Mike also heads to Essex to have the seats and interior re-upholstered. After being restored, Mike named the car Luigi.