how to replace lcd screen on canon camera brands

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A very common camera repair performed today, no matter the type or manufacturer, is the replacement of the LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) screen. At the outset of this walkthrough a few things must be stressed; a disclaimer if you will. Trying to replace an LCD without proper knowledge and experience can be very difficult and sometimes hazardous. Pulling electronics apart and seeing how they work can be fun for some, but it can easily result in further damage and far more costly repairs. Nine times out of ten, when an LCD is being replaced, it is physically broken due to damage that was likely caused by some sort of trauma (from dropping etc).

Cameras are very tightly packed little pieces of technology and generally the LCD is attached to and/or part of a lot of other integral components. Because of this, there is a high probability that there are other things broken that only a trained professional can diagnose/fix easily. Also, having spare parts on hand doesn’t make economic sense for your average consumer because the costs of replacement parts for cameras are not in proportion to their selling price.

Furthermore, camera repair facilities have the necessary testing, calibration and adjustment equipment to get cameras fully operational. Bottom line, if one does attempt this at home, there is very little to no margin for error. Keep in mind this is a general walkthrough NOT a repair guide, I take no responsibility for any damage to property or personal harm that may occur from anyone making use of this information. With that said…

The first things first, parts and tools are necessary to doing this job right. Obviously the part needed is a replacement LCD. It has to be for that particular make and model; this ensures the connections align and it fits properly. The essential tools for “most” LCD replacements are:

And now for the show, replacing the LCD! Please keep in mind this is a general many camera models are more complex and will require additional disassembly in order to remove and replace the LCD.

Location and unscrewing of all housing screws to remove the necessary housing cover(s).It is easy to strip out the tiny screw heads; many manufacturers “glue” the screws in place. If the LCD was damaged due to impact, the housing may have shifted, making the screws problematic to remove.

Proprietary screws can also be a problematic; the screwdriver may have to be special ordered from the manufacturer. Screws may also be hidden behind stickers or panels.

There is a very real risk of shock from this point on. DO NOT TOUCH ANY CIRCUITRY. The flash capacitor circuit on some models is located nearby and will give a painfull serious jolt if one is not careful.

The screws securing the LCD to the rest of the camera are now removed. These are fairly easy to find but there may be additional clips or seals to watch out for.

Connecting components (generally wires or FPC’s) that run from the LCD to the rest of the camera are disconnected using the appropriate set of tweezers.

The new LCD has a protective plastic sheet that is removed before installation. Touching it with bare hands must be avoided, potential damage could be done. It’s also in bad form to get any oils on the nice new LCD screen.

The Battery and memory card are replaced and the camera is powered on. This only tests if the LCD was installed correctly. If the camera/LCD is not working there are countless other things that could be going wrong and are evaluated. As mentioned in the beginning, there is a high possibility that something else is broken and/or needed to be calibrated/adjusted. Further testing of the entire camera must be done to ensure the camera is fully operational.

Just to stress again, trying these kinds of repairs at home, can be a great hobby for some, shouldn’t be taken lightly. Professional photographers always have a backup camera in case of any type of equipment malfunction; it’s not a bad idea.

Kevin Gornto is a Factory Trained and Authorized Technician at C.R.I.S. Camera Services, a digital camera repair company located in Chandler, AZ. Kevin has an electronics degree that provided him with his advanced hardware knowledge and digital imaging expertise. He also enjoys writing about his technical experience and is a major contributor for the company’s camera repair blog; focused on care, maintenance and repair tips for digital cameras and imaging equipment.

I have successfully changed my LCD Screen on my PowerShot S400! With the help of this forum, I learned of the Canon Parts Center and phone number (732-521-7230). I couldn’t believe the price of $33.02 plus $5.00 s/h. (LCD screen part number WG2-5243-000…they don’t use the numbers printed on the screen itself) They sent it from NJ to CA in about a week. I was very reluctant to even take on such a project as replacing the LCD, but after researching locally for repair options, and getting a range of $230 to $300 to fix a $499 S400, I said “what the heck”. I would rather buy a brand new camera, than fix one for over half the price. (One local store said the LCD screen alone cost $195…what a con / rip). I must admit, I did first take apart the camera initially to see what was inside and if it would be way over my head (before even learning of the Canon Part Center).

First, make an investment in a GOOD set of precision screwdrivers (sandblasted tips for a good grip). I went out and bought a 12-piece set of Sears Craftsman Micro-Tech Precision Screwdrivers ($19.99) … you only need one of the Phillip’s head and one of the slotted, but I will probably need the rest at some time, plus the set has a lifetime warranty. Sears sells smaller sets or individual screwdrivers.

First remove all of the outer screws, KEEP TRACK OF WHAT SCREWS GO WHERE, THEY ARE DIFFERENT LENGTHS!!! The outer case / covers comes apart in two pieces surprisingly easily, and the knobs, buttons, switches, etc. stay intact in the outer cases. The hardest part is “prying” the old LCD Screen out of the frame / holder. I would strongly recommend buying the new LCD Screen first, so you know what is being replaced and what is the frame that the screen snaps in to versus what is the LCD screen. Use a small slotted screwdriver to “pop” out the screen from the holder. Pry / twist the screwdriver from between the LCD and the back area behind the LCD. Work around the two ends of the LCD (short sides). If you use the magnify glass, you can see small dimples of metal that press against the LCD to hold it in place under pressure.

Remove the bottom metal plate (one screw next to the tripod hole)….wiggle this plate free…a part of this plate slides under the battery door hinge area.

Remove the screw under the flash to release the copper / plastic shield covering the entire PC board in order to get to the connector. Unplug the flexible connector from the PC board…carefully just pull it out. When you pull out the flexible connector, it causes a clip to pop up, releasing the connector. Don’t worry, this “clip” is hinged and will not fly out. It is a little tricky putting the new connector back in. It does not just plug in. Slide the connector in the slot, and then push down on the hinged clip to push down and hold the connector…it will click closed.

Re-assemble the covers, compact flash door, etc. Be careful of the spring that the compact flash door uses. One of the great things about working with a precision piece of equipment such as the Canon S400, is that it goes back together exactly as it was taken apart, if it doesn’t, you haven’t aligned / done something right…don’t force anything.

Disclaimer: I think I have listed the most important steps. Some of the instructions may not make any sense until you open up the camera to see the parts I am talking about. These steps were successful in repairing my camera, but I knew that only the LCD screen was damaged, and nothing else. I am somewhat mechanically inclined. You need a steady hand (drug addicts should not attempt this repair). If you can change a battery in a watch, you should be able to do this. Take your time; get a clean work area with good lighting. It took about an hour to do this job….less time than writing this letter.

I was motivated to write this letter to “give back to Society”. After being lied to and almost ripped off by the camera repair shops, I felt a civic duty. Here is some advice that is absolutely priceless. This whole broken LCD disaster could have been avoided for 59 cents. I had a $20 soft nylon case for the camera. I LOVE this camera because of the small size and excellent quality. My philosophy in making any purchase (no matter the price), is that it has to be used. Big and bulky cameras are too inconvenient to dash around with. I broke my camera because I forgot it was in my pocket and slammed my car door against it (I know…how stupid). A very good and knowledgeable sales guy warned me about that….people forget they have it in their pocket and run into things. For 59 cents, go to Target, buy a hard plastic soap box, used to traveling (they come in some puke colors). The S400 fits PERFECTLY in it. Cut a little slot for the hand strap to come out of and you are good to go. The saddest part of this story is that I purchased a second new S400 right after I broke the first one…then repaired the broken one. Now I have two perfectly functioning S400’s.

I have successfully changed my LCD Screen on my PowerShot S400! With the help of this forum, I learned of the Canon Parts Center and phone number (732-521-7230). I couldn’t believe the price of $33.02 plus $5.00 s/h. (LCD screen part number WG2-5243-000…they don’t use the numbers printed on the screen itself) They sent it from NJ to CA in about a week. I was very reluctant to even take on such a project as replacing the LCD, but after researching locally for repair options, and getting a range of $230 to $300 to fix a $499 S400, I said “what the heck�. I would rather buy a brand new camera, than fix one for over half the price. (One local store said the LCD screen alone cost $195…what a con / rip). I must admit, I did first take apart the camera initially to see what was inside and if it would be way over my head (before even learning of the Canon Part Center).

First, make an investment in a GOOD set of precision screwdrivers (sandblasted tips for a good grip). I went out and bought a 12-piece set of Sears Craftsman Micro-Tech Precision Screwdrivers ($19.99) … you only need one of the Phillip’s head and one of the slotted, but I will probably need the rest at some time, plus the set has a lifetime warranty. Sears sells smaller sets or individual screwdrivers.

First remove all of the outer screws, KEEP TRACK OF WHAT SCREWS GO WHERE, THEY ARE DIFFERENT LENGTHS!!! The outer case / covers comes apart in two pieces surprisingly easily, and the knobs, buttons, switches, etc. stay intact in the outer cases. The hardest part is “prying� the old LCD Screen out of the frame / holder. I would strongly recommend buying the new LCD Screen first, so you know what is being replaced and what is the frame that the screen snaps in to versus what is the LCD screen. Use a small slotted screwdriver to “pop� out the screen from the holder. Pry / twist the screwdriver from between the LCD and the back area behind the LCD. Work around the two ends of the LCD (short sides). If you use the magnify glass, you can see small dimples of metal that press against the LCD to hold it in place under pressure.

Remove the bottom metal plate (one screw next to the tripod hole)….wiggle this plate free…a part of this plate slides under the battery door hinge area.

Remove the screw under the flash to release the copper / plastic shield covering the entire PC board in order to get to the connector. Unplug the flexible connector from the PC board…carefully just pull it out. When you pull out the flexible connector, it causes a clip to pop up, releasing the connector. Don’t worry, this “clip� is hinged and will not fly out. It is a little tricky putting the new connector back in. It does not just plug in. Slide the connector in the slot, and then push down on the hinged clip to push down and hold the connector…it will click closed.

Re-assemble the covers, compact flash door, etc. Be careful of the spring that the compact flash door uses. One of the great things about working with a precision piece of equipment such as the Canon S400, is that it goes back together exactly as it was taken apart, if it doesn’t, you haven’t aligned / done something right…don’t force anything.

Disclaimer: I think I have listed the most important steps. Some of the instructions may not make any sense until you open up the camera to see the parts I am talking about. These steps were successful in repairing my camera, but I knew that only the LCD screen was damaged, and nothing else. I am somewhat mechanically inclined. You need a steady hand (drug addicts should not attempt this repair). If you can change a battery in a watch, you should be able to do this. Take your time; get a clean work area with good lighting. It took about an hour to do this job….less time than writing this letter.

I was motivated to write this letter to “give back to Society�. After being lied to and almost ripped off by the camera repair shops, I felt a civic duty. Here is some advice that is absolutely priceless. This whole broken LCD disaster could have been avoided for 59 cents. I had a $20 soft nylon case for the camera. I LOVE this camera because of the small size and excellent quality. My philosophy in making any purchase (no matter the price), is that it has to be used. Big and bulky cameras are too inconvenient to dash around with. I broke my camera because I forgot it was in my pocket and slammed my car door against it (I know…how stupid). A very good and knowledgeable sales guy warned me about that….people forget they have it in their pocket and run into things. For 59 cents, go to Target, buy a hard plastic soap box, used to traveling (they come in some puke colors). The S400 fits PERFECTLY in it. Cut a little slot for the hand strap to come out of and you are good to go. The saddest part of this story is that I purchased a second new S400 right after I broke the first one…then repaired the broken one. Now I have two perfectly functioning S400’s.

New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is applicable). Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item is handmade or was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag. See the seller"s listing for full details.See all condition definitionsopens in a new window or tab

New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is applicable). Packaging should be the same as what is found in a retail store, unless the item is handmade or was packaged by the manufacturer in non-retail packaging, such as an unprinted box or plastic bag. See the seller"s listing for full details.See all condition definitionsopens in a new window or tab

*The services offered cover cleaning and maintenance of external components of the camera or lens, as well as the following internal components of the camera: image sensor, mirror (if applicable), and focus screen. If, upon inspection, additional services are necessary which require the camera or lens body to be disassembled or parts to be replaced, this will be considered a repair and you will receive a repair estimate. In this case, any payment made previously for the Canon Maintenance Service will be refunded. If you do not approve the repair estimate, repairs will not be made, your camera and/or lens will be returned to you and you will not incur any charges for Canon Maintenance Service.

Resolution Adjustment, and/or removing internal dust or debris of either the body or the lens are not covered under CMS. Autofocus adjustments and/or calibration of either the body or the lens are not covered under CMS. These services can be provided as a billable(chargeable) repair for each item.

Services available on eligible Canon Digital SLR/Mirrorless cameras and EF/RF lens models only, for residents of the 50 United States, the District of Columbia and Puerto Rico who purchased and use their models there. Canon cameras and lenses that are past their supported service life are not considered eligible products.

Failure or malfunction not related to the original estimate is not covered under repair warranty. If a failure is identified with your product during your requested Maintenance Service, the Canon Service & Repair Center will contact you to either request a copy of your proof of purchase to validate your Canon warranty (if not already provided) or, if your product is no longer covered by its Canon warranty, to discuss chargeable repair options (i.e. fixed price repair, repair limit or time & cost estimate).

Inevitably, over time the plastic LCD cover on the back of your camera gets scratched, scuffed and generally ends up looking older than the camera really is. Most of the time it doesn’t matter much, you can see the images and menus just fine. But given enough scratches light glare may interfere with seeing the LCD. Or you just may hate that your pride and joy doesn’t look great. We certainly do.

Changing that old LCD cover for a new one is easy to do and inexpensive. We’re going to show you how using a 5D Mk II for an example, but changing it out on other cameras is exactly the same (as is changing out smaller secondary LCD covers if your camera has those). For almost all Canon and Nikon cameras you can find factory replacement covers (and tape, make sure it comes with tape) on eBay or from some camera repair shops that resell parts. You can also buy them direct from Canon or Nikon parts at the moment, but Nikon plans to stop selling all parts soon except to authorized repair centers (who won’t resell parts) so Nikon supplies will probably be drying up. You can sometimes find LCD covers for other brands, but they’re more difficult to come by.

Once you have the new cover, changing won’t take more than 15 minutes. And I should note, all we’re doing is changing the cover, we aren’t doing anything to the actual LCD itself. BUT, if you’re clumsy you could scratch the actual LCD while doing this and that will require an expensive repair. So consider yourself warned.

Use the hairdryer on medium heat to slowly warm up the LCD cover on the camera. You need to get it warm to the touch to soften the adhesive, but you don’t want to cook the camera’s electronics. How warm? Well, like I said warm (not hot) to the touch. I’m not OCD enough to take the temperature of the screen, but it usually takes 2-3 minutes on medium heat.

Once it is warm, find the corner of the LCD cover that seems to have the most room to insert a small knife, screwdriver, etc. Personally, I use a lens cloth under the tools to protect the camera’s finish and find that two pry tools work better than one. The cover is only a mm or so thick and you DON’t want to let the tool move over the LCD screen if it slips. Notice in the picture that both tools are aimed away from the LCD.

Different people recommend different ways to do this. One of the more common is to go ahead and break the cover which makes it easier to pull up. I haven’t been able to summon up the guts to try this method, so I stick with prying up. It may take a couple of times reheating and reprying but once a corner starts to come loose, the screen will pull up very easily.

For most cameras, the replacement tape comes on an LCD size pad with a center protective area –  the double-sided strip of tape is only around the edges. Simply remove the paper over the tape

Make one last check to see if any dust has settled on the LCD, then place the new cover on top of the tape, press down on the edges firmly, and you’re all done. Nice, shiny clean new LCD cover!!!

Strictly for your benefit, my readers, I have demonstrated what happens if you don’t check the underside of the new LCD cover for dust before you apply it. If you notice it (like I did) before you’ve pressed the edges down tightly you can probably pry a corner up and blow it out. If not, well, go back to step 1.

I’m Roger and I am the founder of Lensrentals.com. Hailed as one of the optic nerds here, I enjoy shooting collimated light through 30X microscope objectives in my spare time. When I do take real pictures I like using something different: a Medium format, or Pentax K1, or a Sony RX1R.

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Understanding how to repair a digital camera screen will keep your leading digital camera in good standing even in the worst-case scenario. While equipment maintenance is the best way to prevent problems, repair and replacement are two unavoidable realities. You’ll eventually run into malfunctions as your equipment ages.

It is never recommended to replace a digital camera screen yourself because the camera’s internal components are sensitive and you can easily interfere with the camera modes.

Learning how to repair a digital camera screen, or at least understanding the theory behind it, helps photographers immeasurably. Basic maintenance should be performed regularly so that your screen stays in good shape. If an issue does pop up, make sure you understand basic troubleshooting. Alternatively, if you’re just curious about focusing, you might like our info article on how to use a horizontal split focusing screen on a digital camera.

Problems with your digital camera screen can ruin your digital photos. After all, the biggest reason people love the digital camera experience is viewing photos in real-time while shooting, and the ability to connect to other devices such as the iPhone and share quality photos. There are a few issues that could be at play.

If your digital camera screen won’t turn on, there is an immediate issue to be resolved. The LCD screen could lack power from a battery issue, for example. No matter what, it’s time to take your camera to a professional to diagnose the problem. This, unfortunately, has nothing to do with the gamma in your digital camera, as that’s a separate matter altogether.

Accidental damage happens all the time to your lens. Lens and sensor damage is unavoidable since you constantly switch them out and expose sensitive parts to the open air. Make sure that your lens isn’t the reason your screen doesn’t seem to be working correctly. That said, if it is an issue, you’ll need to know how to repair a digital camera and lens.

Lastly, you’ll want to keep an eye on the camera whenever it’s out of its protective casing. Sometimes damage to property happens when you’re out and about. It doesn’t have to be done maliciously. Just knocking over a camera on accident can be enough for internal components to pop out of place.

If you’ve concluded that your problem is from a faulty LCD display, it’s time to reach out to a professional or the brand. Your destination for tech repair should hinge on the star rating the company has earned. Always go through a reputable repair shop to avoid further damage. If you’re set on trying to repair or replace an LCD screen display yourself, make sure you have the right repair tools for the job.

Quite a few things can go wrong and call for common camera repair services. Here are a few of them:You must replace defunct batteries with fresh batteries

Luckily, troubleshooting isn’t super complicated, and there are tons of answers in product info if you still have your owner’s manual. If not, head over to the brand website for more troubleshooting information.

You should always be following repair guides when attempting to fix anything yourself. Repair guides will give you a list of repair tools needed for the job.

There’s no way around it: contacting a digital camera repair company is always your best bet. While you can get the repair tools yourself, you risk dealing with further damage to your camera’s internal components. Sometimes cameras are beyond repair, as well, and a digital camera repair company is better suited to tell if you just need a new camera.

STAT: The statistic depicts the wholesale sales of digital camera accessories in the United States from 2018 to 2022. In 2019, digital camera accessories wholesale sales in the United States were estimated to amount to 83 million U.S. dollars. (source)

If you"re looking to pick up a bargain Canon camera, this is traditionally a great time of year to do just that. We"re approaching some major shopping events and the early Black Friday deals are likely to pick up momentum from early November.

While new Canon cameras like the Canon EOS R10 and EOS R7 below are unlikely to see discounts, some slightly older but still impressive models like the Canon EOS M50 Mark II, full-frame Canon EOS RP, and Canon EOS Rebel SL3 / EOS 250D DSLR could well hit their lowest-ever prices during the event.

The best Black Friday camera deals probably won"t land until November, so if you can wait until then you may well find some of the more established cameras below available for some great prices.

With a catalog of options across all formats, finding the best Canon camera isn’t straightforward. That’s why we’ve tested all of the Japanese manufacturer’s top models, to determine the pecking order of its camera family. Entry-level or expert, mirrorless or DSLR: the list below covers the best Canon cameras for every need, budget, and skill level.

What’s the best Canon camera overall? It may be overkill for beginners, but currently, the Canon EOS R5 is among the finest full-frame mirrorless models on the market right now, but if you"re looking for the king of speed, then the Canon EOS R3 takes that crown however, both of these cameras are considered professional-grade cameras and therefore are featured within our best professional cameras, too. The EOS R5 is a feature-packed hybrid with superb autofocus, solid in-body image stabilization with a high-resolution sensor capable of capturing detailed images, as well as recording outstanding 8K video - it’s a camera most professionals dream about.

But not everyone needs to shoot with such costly Canon kit, or even 8K. We think right now if you are looking for the most affordable Canon camera, that"s the Canon EOS R10. The R10 is compact and versatile yet impressively affordable, it represents excellent value for enthusiasts looking to shoot wildlife or action in particular.

But our round-up doesn’t stop there. Whether you’re a recent convert or a lifelong fan of the brand, our guide spans Canon cameras of all shapes and sizes. Besides recent releases like the EOS R7, we’ve included some of the best vlogging cameras such as the Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark II, plus entry-level DSLR options like the EOS Rebel SL3 / 250D.

Every recommendation within this guide has been tried and tested for your consideration. Together with our buying tips, and handy price comparison tool, it means this list should be your cheat sheet for getting the best Canon camera for your needs.

There"s a heck of a lot to like about the Canon EOS R5, particularly if you"re mainly a stills photographer. In fact, we"d say that there"s never been a better Canon camera for those who shoot a wide range of photography.

We"ve spent a lot of time with the EOS R5 since it launched, and our tests have consistently found it to have fantastic image quality, seriously impressive autofocus, and decent battery life. We"re also big fans of the body design, which combines a responsive touchscreen with a superb electronic viewfinder.

It might have the headline-grabbing spec of 8K video, but the picture is a little less clear for videographers. The EOS R5"s overheating restrictions are likely to put off those who mainly shoot lengthy clips (interviews, for example). We"ve tested the EOS R5"s latest firmware, though, and didn"t get any overheating warnings when shooting a short film in 32-degree temperatures, so it"s certainly a very capable video camera for most people.

Canon clearly went all-out on the EOS R5, and it"s close to being the perfect Canon camera for hybrid shooters. However, that comes at a cost. The EOS R5 has a high asking price, but if you"re keen on the brand, then it may be worth paying.

Look past the old-school sensor and Canon’s EOS R10 shapes up as one of the best entry-level mirrorless cameras for beginners. Fitted with Canon’s powerful Digic X chip, it also benefits from truly modern autofocus abilities.

In testing, the processor and AF tracking together proved remarkably powerful yet accessible for learners. Continuous shooting speeds of 15fps with the mechanical shutter also mean the EOS R10 is a winner if you want to experiment with action photography.

With dual control dials and a dedicated AF joystick, the EOS R10 offers the welcome ability to get hands-on with creative shooting. Its lightweight body also feels comfortably familiar to anyone coming from DSLRs, with the sharp articulating touchscreen also making it an easy switch for smartphone photographers.

Low-light abilities are limited by the lack of in-body image stabilization, but image quality is decent, with plenty of detail hiding in the shadows. Video skills are solid too, with 4K footage oversampled at 30fps. Provided Canon comes out with more native APS-C lenses to grow with, the R10 hits the top spot for beginners.

The Canon EOS R3 is unashamedly a professional mirrorless camera, with a body that looks more like a sports DSLR than the more compact EOS R5. There"s a good reason for this, though – it"s built for speed rather than resolution, and if that"s your priority then it"s the best Canon camera around. During our extensive time with the EO R3, we found it to be one of the best sports and wildlife cameras we"ve ever tested, thanks to its incredible autofocus skills, 30fps raw burst shooting and touch magnesium alloy build.

This power is unlocked by a 24.1MP backside-illuminated stacked CMOS sensor, which makes it a stellar video tool, too. It can shoot 6K/60p raw video internally without any noticeable rolling shutter, and also comes with a handy articulating touchscreen. In short, the EOS R3 is the pinnacle of mirrorless camera technology – it"s big and expensive, but if you need an uncompromising Canon camera and can afford to pay the premium, you won"t be disappointed.

Hitting the APS-C sweet spot, the EOS R7 is one of the top options in Canon’s line-up for enthusiast shooters. Compact proportions make it a nice camera to use, with a reasonably chunky grip and accessible control layout. Yet it also benefits from a generous feature set, while undercutting its full-frame cousins.

Among the highlights is Canon’s latest Dual Pixel CMOS AF II autofocus, which proved both rapid and reliably capable of keeping up with subjects. Electronic burst speeds of up to 30fps also make it a dream for sports and wildlife photography, with in-body image stabilization offering eight stops of compensation when shooting handled.

Overall, our real-world usage proved that the EOS R7 can produce lovely images in a wide range of conditions. Low-light results aren’t quite on par with Canon’s full-frame models, but it’s hard to argue when you’re getting such impressive versatility and value. That includes two UHS-II card slots, an articulating touchscreen, and the ability to shoot uncropped 4K/60p video.

All that’s really holding the Canon EOS R7 back right now is a lack of native lenses. This is something that Canon will hopefully address if the RF-S system becomes as popular as it should be.

The Canon EOS R6 is a more affordable, pared-back version of the R5 for those who prize speed over resolution. If you shoot a lot of sports and wildlife, that"s a potentially winning formula – in our tests, we"ve found it to be one of the best mirrorless all-rounders you can buy.

At 20.1MP, its full-frame sensor has a lower pixel count than even the EOS 6D Mark II. At 4K/60p, its video resolution doesn’t come to close to the 8K offered by the R5. Yet as a package, we found the EOS R6 to be an absolute joy to shoot with. Its Dual Pixel autofocus is tenacious and accurate, while Canon’s first attempt at in-body image stabilization proved to be, in our experience, an unmitigated success.

Its best skill, though, is its blisteringly quick 20fps burst speeds with the electronic shutter, or 12fps with the mechanical one. This makes it a better choice for shooting speeding subjects than rivals like the Sony A7 IV. On the downside, our tests found the dynamic range to be slightly disappointing. But color reproduction overall is excellent, noise-handling good and image quality is otherwise impressive.

It"s now a few years old, but the Canon EOS RP continues to offer excellent value for those who want to go full-frame, but can"t stretch the pricey Canon EOS R5 and EOS R6. We found it to be charmingly compact and easy to use during our tests, which means even beginners will be able to quickly find their way around the camera. However, the EOS RP"s small size does occasionally make the camera feel front-heavy when using larger lenses.

On the plus side, Canon"s wide range of RF lenses also works in the EOS RP"s favor, particularly when you pair it with relatively affordable primes like the RF 50mm f/1.8. the EOS RP"s 4K video game is a little more restricted, as it comes with a 1.6x crop factor and you can"t use Canon"s trusted Dual Pixel CMOS autofocus system above 1080p Full HD resolution. But besides that, we continue to be impressed by the value the EOS RP offers. It has excellent AF performance, produces vibrant and sharp images, boasts a wonderfully responsive rear LCD touchscreen, and can be used with existing EF lenses with a lens adaptor.

Despite the arrival of Canon"s first APS-C cameras for its RF mount – the Canon EOS R7 and EOS R10 – the camera giant"s EOS M series lives on as an even more compact alternative for hobbyist shooters. And the EOS M50 Mark II is the series" best model, offering good performance and features across stills and video for a very reasonable price.

We"d have liked to have seen a bigger upgrade on the EOS M50, as the Mark II still have a heavy 1.56x crop on 4K video. This crop goes up to 1.75x if you turn on digital image stabilization, which was too much for most shooting situations in our experience. But if you"re happy to shoot 1080p video, this camera is well worth considering. We remain impressed with the performance of its 24.1MP APS-C CMOS sensor, with our tests revealing it to be very capable of producing high-quality images in a variety of situations. The camera also combines a vari-angle touchscreen and microphone input with a diddy, travel-friendly design.

Canon’s EOS 200D was an entry-level DSLR with enthusiast aspirations. Its successor builds on that approach, adding a few straightforward updates to create an even more competent beginners’ camera which nails the basics. In our tests, we found its battery life to be excellent, while it"s Dual Pixel CMOS AF system produced an impressive hit-rate. As you"d expect from a Canon DSLR, the image quality also impressed, with pleasing colors and good exposure in a variety of conditions.

Long popular with vloggers, Canon’s G7X range has kicked it up a notch with its latest implementation. In our tests, we found its 20.1MP one-inch sensor to be very capable. But the G7 X Mark III is also equipped with uncropped 4K video recording, and a microphone socket, which is something that"s been requested on its compact cameras for a very long time.

Until recently, the EOS M6 Mark II was Canon"s flagship APS-C camera, but that title now belongs the Canon EOS R7. The arrival of the latter pushes this model down our list, but it"s still a great choice as a traveling companion and you do get the option of having no viewfinder, which further boosts its portability.

Its tiny body houses a 32.5MP APS-C sensor (the same one that"s in the Canon EOS 90D listed below) and, working with a Digic 8 image processor, it offers up to 14fps continuous shooting. In our experience with the camera, this was great for sports, wildlife, street photography, and virtually any moving subject we pointed it at.

Unlike the EOS RP (see no.3), its 4K video is uncropped and uses the entire width of the sensor, which we found to be a boon for the video quality. There"s also a microphone input socket and a screen that faces all the way forward, which makes this a fine vlogging camera – particularly if it now sees a price drop with the arrival of the EOS R7 and EOS R10.

Just when most people assumed that DSLRs were dead, Canon decided to prove otherwise. The EOS 90D is almost certainly its last mid-range DSLR, but if you prefer the larger bodies and longer battery lives of those cameras, then it"s a fine performer that"s still well worth considering.

When it launched, the EOS 90D was the first camera of its kind to boast a 32.5MP sensor. Alongside its Digic 8 processor, this gives it the ability to capture 4K video at up to 30fps which is, thankfully is uncropped. While it"s the same sensor and image engine pairing as the EOS M6 Mark II mentioned above, the EOS 90D doesn"t quite have the speed of its mirrorless cousin, instead topping out at 11fps when shooting continuously in live view mode.

There"s a new metering sensor under the hood as well and in our tests we found its performance to be excellent, exposing areas of light and shadow to near-perfection. However, we did find that due to the high pixel density on the crop sensor, noise performance wasn"t the best. Still, for the most part, that can be taken care of during post-production.

The battery has a CIPA rating of 1,300 shots, but our tests showed the camera is capable of well over that, which is way more than what you"d get from the average mirrorless camera. All in all, it"s a wonderfully versatile snapper for anyone who prefers the DSLR experience.

Canon’s first full-frame mirrorless camera was something of a hit-and-miss affair. But if you"re a Canon fan who"s looking for a relatively affordable full-frame camera with the RF mount, it"s still worthy of investigation.

While the model retains much of what makes the EOS DSLR line special, Canon threw in a superb electronic viewfinder with a 3.69-million dot resolution, which remains very respectable to this day. We’re also very impressed by the range of RF lenses that are now available for the system, although Canon has continued support for its huge EF lens system through three separate adapters.

It would have been nice to see an AF lever, sensor-based image stabilization, and an additional card slot to make the EOS R truly competitive. But during our tests, we found ourselves to be blessed with excellent autofocus (albeit not quite up to its latest mirrorless models). We were also impressed with its handling and very sound image quality. If you’re a user of older EOS 5D or double-digit models and are looking to step up to Canon’s full framer, you should also find adopting the EOS R to be a pain-free affair.

Think of a superlative and it probably describes the Canon 1DX Mark III. A flagship sports DSLR in every sense, Canon packed this full-framer so full of features – and with so much performance – that it automatically deserves a spot on this list. The only reason it"s so far down is because of the arrival of its mirrorless equivalent –the Canon EOS R3 – and the fact that its power and price tag simply make it too much camera for most people.

Physically, the 1DX Mark III is the same size as its predecessor, but 90g lighter and as ergonomic as ever. Two new Smart Controllers also make it a cinch to operate, courtesy of optical sensors that let you navigate focus points with the lightest swipe of your thumb.

At its heart is a Digic X processing chip, which is three times quicker than the one in the 1DX Mark II. In our tests, we found that this worked very nicely alongside the completely redesigned sensor to deliver impressive 4K video at 50fps, blistering continuous frame rates and an almost unlimited buffer.

Then there’s the autofocus. Driven by deep learning for subject recognition and detection, it was supremely fast and infallibly accurate in our experience, rivaling the very best mirrorless models – whether you use the optical viewfinder or Live View. In summary, it’s supremely capable and can comfortably outgun almost all the competition, mirrorless or DSLR.

Canon has managed to pack a lot into this little pocket rocket, combining a stacked CMOS sensor with a Digic 8 imaging engine. This gives the PowerShot G5 X Mark II the ability to capture stills at a blitzing pace of 30fps when shooting raw, or 20fps when shooting conventionally.

Our tests found that the G5 X Mark II"s ISO performance has been improved over previous iterations, while 4K video capture has also been added. For those who prefer a viewfinder to use the rear LCD screen, the pop-up EVF has a darn good resolution of 2.36-million dots. Despite packing in an EVF, Canon has even managed to add a flash to the camera. There"s also an ND filter available on board if you happen to be shooting in brilliant sunlight.

We found the noise performance to be pretty good for a camera with a 1-inch sensor, although the 4K video quality isn"t anything to write home about, particularly when compared to the likes of Sony"s latest Cyber-shot RX100 range. Despite that, the G5 X Mark II is an excellent choice for a compact, provided you"ve got the spare change for it.

Canon’s 5D range continues to be popular among traditionalists. And for good reason; these high-specced DSLRs offer a huge number of features in a body that handles superbly.

Here we have an excellent 30.4MP sensor which, although lower in resolution than the likes of the Nikon D850, still gives you plenty of scope to create fantastic shots in a range of conditions.

Our tests also found that the 61-point AF system performed well in low-light and was also impressively super-quick, if not quite up to the standard of the latest mirrorless models. 4K video recording is available, but this being a slightly older model, we’re limited to 30p.

Although autofocusing is whip-smart, the 5D Mark IV can only manage 7fps, which puts it behind many newer models. But if you’re shooting landscapes, portraits, still life - in short, anything which doesn’t move too quickly - you"ll find it to be an excellent photographic companion.

It can be tricky to pick the right Canon camera for you. The brand offers a wide array of choices, ranging from pocket-friendly compacts to bulkier DSLRs to cutting-edge mirrorless systems. Canon caters to pretty much every type of photographer and filmmaker out there, and which model is right for you will depend hugely on what and how you like to shoot. In particular, you’ll need to consider which body style and sensor format best suits your needs.

If you’re into sports and wildlife photography, for example, should you should be looking for a camera with fast frame rates and reliable in-body image stabilization to steadily capture rapid action. The Canon EOS R3 delivers all this and more (but at a price).

Equally, if you’re more focused on moving images than moving subjects, Canon’s range is home to several video-focused cameras, which support external microphones, feature flip-out screens for easy framing, and can capture uncropped 4K footage. The Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark III is a pocketable solution for travelers, as is the Canon EOS M6 Mark IIfor those who’d like an APS-C sensor in a travel-friendly form factor (though it might be an idea to hold off a little to see how the R7 and R10 perform).

Canon also makes several fantastic all-rounders. These versatile cames work well in multiple scenarios, and will often be the best choice for hobbyists who’d like to try their hand at multiple photography and video genres. The Canon EOS R6 is the best Canon all-rounder you can currently buy, while the EOS Rebel SL3 / EOS 250D is a more affordable all-rounder.

Canon has traditionally been a big player in the DSLR market, which has now come to an end, thanks to the popularity, weight saving, and technological breakthroughs with mirrorless tech. While it still remains one of the most established names in relation to the format, it’s now also become a mirrorless force to be reckoned with. If you’re searching for the ultimate in resolution, performance, and technology, you should be looking at its latest mirrorless cameras, like the Canon EOS R3, R5, and EOS R6. That said, you’ll need a pretty serious budget to take one home.

Which is the best Canon camera for beginners? We think the best all-round Canon camera for most novices is the Canon EOS Rebel SL3 / EOS 250D. A lightweight, entry-level DSLR with excellent battery life and ergonomics that make it great to hold, it’s a brilliant camera for new photographers to handle. Although its 9-point autofocus system is dated, it performs consistently and image quality is good. Plus there are plenty of compatible lenses in Canon’s catalog when you’re ready to get creative.

That said, if you’d prefer to start out with a mirrorless camera, the Canon EOS M50 is also an excellent choice for beginners. Since succeeded by the Canon EOS M50 Mk II (a minor upgrade), it remains a very capable APS-C camera that’s accessible and easy to use. Its combination of an excellent electronic viewfinder with a slick, vari-angle touchscreen makes it very approachable for first-timers. Dual Pixel autofocus is also fast and reliable. If you can look past the limited battery life and plasticky finish, it’s a great value choice if you’re just starting out.

Prepared to take the plunge and buy a camera that you can grow into? The Canon EOS RP is a full-frame mirrorless camera that’s relatively affordable and offers top-notch performance. It’s compact and easy to use thanks to a responsive rear touchscreen, so beginners should quickly get to grips with its interface – yet the EOS RP also produces sharp, vibrant images and boasts excellent autofocus performance. If you can deal with the 1.6x crop on 4K footage, it’s an appealing package.

Buying a camera these days is a big investment, so every camera in this guide has been tested extensively by us so we can authoritatively decide on the best Canon camera. These days, real-world tests are the most revealing way to understand a camera"s performance and character, so we focus heavily on those, along with standardized tests for factors like ISO performance.

To start with, we look at the camera"s design, handling, and controls to get a sense of what kind of photographer it"s aimed at and who would most enjoy shooting with it. When we take it out on a shoot, we"ll use it both handheld and on a tripod to get a sense of where its strengths lie, and test its startup speed.

When it comes to performance, we use a formatted card and shoot in both raw and JPEG (if available). For burst shooting tests, we dial in our regular test settings (1/250 sec, ISO 200, continuous AF) and shoot a series of frames in front of a stopwatch to see if it lives up to its claimed speeds. We"ll also look at how quickly the buffers clears and repeat the test for both raw and JPEG files.

In various lighting conditions, we also test the camera"s different autofocus modes (including Face and Eye AF) in a single point, area, and continuous modes. We also shoot a range of photos of different styles (portrait, landscape, low light, macro/close-up) in raw and JPEG to get a sense of metering and its sensor"s ability to handle noise and resolve fine detail.

If the camera"s raw files are supported by Adobe Camera Raw, we"ll also process some test images to see how we can push areas like shadow recovery. And we"ll also test its ISO performance across the whole range to get a sense of the levels we"d be happy to push the camera to.

Battery life is tested in a real-world fashion, as we use the camera over the course of the day with the screen set to the default settings. Once the battery has reached zero, we"ll then count the number of shots to see how it compares to the camera"s CIPA rating. Finally, we test the camera"s video skills by shooting some test footage at different frame rates and resolutions, along with its companion app.

We then take everything we"ve learned about the camera and factor in its price to get a sense of the value for money it offers, before reaching our final verdict.Round up of today"s best deals