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Pull the crown out to its middle position 2. Turn the crown to set the date. Pull the crown right out 3. Turn the crown to set the time. Afterwards, press the crown back into its original position 1. Your watch is now set.

Pull the crown out to its middle position 2. Turn the crown to set the date. Pull the crown right out 3. Turn the crown to set the time. Afterwards, press the crown back into its original position 1. Your watch is now set.

Apple Watch Series 8 and Apple Watch SE have a water resistance rating of 50 meters under ISO standard 22810:2010. This means that they may be used for shallow-water activities like swimming in a pool or ocean. However, they should not be used for scuba diving, waterskiing, or other activities involving high-velocity water or submersion below shallow depth. Water resistance is not a permanent condition and can diminish over time. For additional information see support.apple.com/en-us/HT205000. Series 8 is also rated IP6X dust resistant.

Apple Watch Ultra has a water resistance rating of 100 meters under ISO standard 22810. It may be used for recreational scuba diving (with compatible third-party app from the App Store) to 40 meters and high-speed water sports. Apple Watch Ultra should not be used for diving below 40 meters. Water resistance is not a permanent condition and can diminish over time. For additional information see support.apple.com/HT205000.

The ECG app is available on Apple Watch Series 4 and later (not including Apple Watch SE) with the latest version of iOS and watchOS. See apple.com/watch for compatibility details. ECG is not intended for use by people under 22 years old. With the ECG app, Apple Watch is capable of generating an ECG similar to a single-lead electrocardiogram.

Irregular rhythm notification requires the latest version of watchOS and iOS. It is not intended for use by people under 22 years old or those who have been previously diagnosed with atrial fibrillation (AFib).

The international emergency calling feature requires an Apple Watch Ultra (Cellular), Apple Watch Series 8 (GPS + Cellular), Apple Watch Series 7 (GPS + Cellular) or Apple Watch SE (GPS + Cellular) model. For a list of supported countries and regions, see apple.com/watchos/feature-availability.

Wireless service plan required for cellular service. Contact your service provider for more details. Connection may vary based on network availability. Check apple.com/watch/cellular for participating wireless carriers and eligibility. See support.apple.com/en-us/HT207578 for additional setup instructions.

Not all features will be available if the Apple Watch is set up through Family Setup. Wireless service plan required for cellular service. Contact your service provider for more details. Check apple.com/watch/cellular for participating wireless carriers and eligibility.

By now, you may or may not have read Jack Forster"s nice little article about display casebacks. It"s well-written, like everything Jack writes, but unfortunately, it misses the mark. First of all, he takes the position that entry-level watches deserve exhibition casebacks. This is simply too vague a POV.  I have nothing against entry-level watches displaying their movements. And before you cry elitism, this isn"t about money … it"s about form.

A display caseback should not be an afterthought on a watch. A brand should not be slapping see-through glass on the back and just assuming it"s for the best. And there"s a reason for this: not all movements are created equal, especially when we"re talking about finishing.

When we agreed to go toe-to-toe on this point, I was expecting Mr. Forster, the Grand Master of Horology at HODINKEE, to bring out some truly entry-level watches bringing the goods in terms of visible movement exhibition.

And what did he do instead? He teed up a Seiko 5 Sports in his hero image to lure you in and filled the article with "entry-level" watches with legitimately thoughtful display back designs. Turns out, those watches cost upwards of $2,000 (admittedly a bit less – pre-tax –  in the case of the Tissot PRX Chronograph) and one is an auction-only piece unique. Feels a bit deceptive, a little dirty pool. But I"ll play ball (mixed metaphors aside).

Now I won"t throw any single brand under the bus, but in my experience as a former budding-watch-enthusiast-turned-watch-writer/expert (your words, not mine), I"ve come to deplore what I consider the "entry-level afterthought." These are watches somewhere in the $300 - $2,000 range with modified ETA or Sellita movements. But in actuality, they perform little or any modification to said movements, and then put them behind sapphire or mineral glass. The Tissot PRX Chrono is one watch in recent memory where the inclusion of an exhibition case back was done with considered forethought. It is here where Mr. Forster and I find common ground.

The issue with the afterthoughts is generally two-fold. First, what you"re left with is a bunch of metal covered by a large rotor that hardly affords you the chance to examine anything meaningful about the watch. Second, the movements are usually far smaller than the case itself, resulting in a viewing experience ruined by weird proportions. In some cases, the movements are framed by unsightly white plastic. If the idea is to keep costs down, you don"t need to show anything off just because you think you have to.

To me, a closed caseback imbues a sense of confidence on the part of the brand. Rolex doesn"t have a single watch with an exhibition caseback in its stable (even though they do some decoration and high-level finishing, regardless). Maybe I just like the classic simple appeal of a solid back on my everyday watches.

But when it comes to true haute horology and high-level mechanics? Sign me up for an exhibition caseback every day of the week and twice on Sunday. I"m talking about watches like the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Homage to F. A. Lange. I had a chance to handle that watch – briefly – and I spent more time looking at the movement than I did any other single part of the watch. That"s why it deserves to have an exhibition caseback. There is real complication that demands to be seen.

I dare say that the modern Omega Speedmaster 321 is in that same category. As someone forever determined to own a Moonwatch, but only in the faithful Hesalite, closed caseback configuration, this watch changed my mind. That solely had to do with the 321 caliber. I had heard stories about it before in a historical context, but seeing it recreated in modern form was a whole other thing.

These two watches share a couple things in common, aside from being in-house manufacture movements with a high degree of finishing. Both are manually-wound meaning no rotor to interfere with the mechanics, and both fill the case perfectly. I think also about Montblanc and its use of Minerva-based movements in its high-end offerings. There is so much happening on the back side of those watches that you just want to show them to anyone you can.

In his counterpoint, Mr. Forster inserts photographs of the Tudor Black Bay GMT One for Only Watch with its caliber MT5652-1U, and tries to pass this off as entry-level. A Tudor piece-unique is entry-level??

Of course I"ll bring things back down to earth and focus on a regular production Tudor – the Black Bay Ceramic with METAS certified MT5602-1U caliber. The finishing on both watches is quite similar. If anything, this is the exact kind of movement that I want to be celebrated. It may not be "pretty," but Tudor saw fit to give a similar black-on-black finish to the rest of the watch, and even decorated the rotor to boot. It"s part of the watch – there"s symbiosis. You might even call it art. I do.

Ultimately, the back of a watch is the portion that sits hidden. It"s a secret between you and your wrist. An exhibition caseback should excite you – it should compel you to take that watch off your wrist, break that secret, and share it with the world.

HODINKEE is an authorized retailer of Omega, Montblanc, and Seiko watches. You can also find pre-owned examples of Tudor, Patek Philippe, and A. Lange & Söhne in the Shop.

hi there i have been given a cutlass 17 jewels parashock from my father on the back it says csp cutlass 4-020294-k under that it has 010001592 in smaller writing and under that it has63-5618. the face says cutlass 17 jewels parashock. japan 6025943y. the watch is a wind up and is in working order ,i cant find any info about the watch,would you know anything about it.the watch doesnt say citizen on it anywhere.thanks

Thank you for the information on the watch,i have attached a couple of pics,i plan on getting the watch cleaned up and get a new strap,do u know what kind of strap would have been on it and where i could purchase one,i was hoping to get the watch back to its original form.thank u again for taking the time to reply to me.Ross

Stephen, great resource you have here! I normally collect Movados, travel watches, and art deco stuff. But I saw this art deco looking watch on eBay that was the oldest Citzen wire lug watch I ever saw and no one was bidding. So I thought you might get a treat out of seeing the restorable antique. Got it for a low price. Movement clean and I had it running and purring along in 10 minutes. Pics show dial discolored, crystal missing but everything else is nice. Movement is blank other than a 42 stamped adjacent to the balance bridge on a tongue right before the escapement. Strange pinkish balance wheel jewel, no jewels on other gears, and jewels on double roller pallets are jet black. Back of case stamped from top to bottom with the following 4 designators : M (inside square), STAR (inside square), 27286, EVERBRIGHT BACK. Nice old leather band with buckle strap for the wire lugs.

Hi Mike, thanks for visiting my blog and for your kind comments. I’m pretty sure that your watch has the initial ‘F-type’ movement, which was Citizen’s first wrist watch movement launched in 1931. Does the movement look like this:

The design was soon updated so I think it was probably made no later than 1935 or thereabouts. The style of the dial, with the red 24 hour numerals is suggestive of a military watch – ‘STAR’ is the case factory name and along with ‘EVERBRIGHT BACK’ is typically found on these early watches. I’ve not seen ‘M’ before so this is possibly a ‘military’ reference. Serial numbers were not used on these, so along with ‘M’ I’m thinking 27286 may be a military issue number.

Stephen, thank you very much for looking at this. Yes, it is a type F, although the one you pictured was a tiny bit different. Mine has black pallet jewels and that “42” stamped on the base between the balance wheel and main bridge. When I get it cleaned up and restored, I’ll send you pictures of the movement. As for military issue, it is still a bit of a mystery, but looking in other places found a little more evidence. While Seikosha was supplier to the Imperial Japanese Army and Navy in WWII, in prewar (to us) Japan in the 1930s, Japan had a huge army in Manchuria, the Kwantung Army. Conflicts with the Chinese and Soviets. They appeared to have both Seikosha and Citizen pocket watches. Maybe the same with the early wristwatches.

The pictures of Japanese Army with wristwatches from the 30s and 40s I found show only Seikoshas if the detail is fine enough to make out whose watch it is…but they had the same leather strap design. Wide horsehide, with a separate smaller buckled strap to hold the wristwatch. And the dials of many show a 24 hour clock, “military time”, as many of the Swiss made watches issued to the military also did.

I found an article, no doubt one you have already seen, on the early development of Citizen watches, including the Model F, which they say was a copy of a Mido movement and it’s production period.

I hope there is something in this or my original post that you or followers of your blog found interesting or enjoyable. My guess is that this Citizen watch will be very appreciated by a Japanese military watch collector which I am not (Though I love the history of some things), and possibly the finely preserved strap will be a collector’s joy as well.. And it’s fun to speculate on how it ended up almost unused to judge from the strap and no wear on the case, and if it is a war souvenir of some now departed soldier…Dial may just have been oxidized and dirtied up exposed when the crystal broke..

Hi stephen my names ali I was going threw my late grandads things and come a across a citizen watch ,I was wondering if you could tell me how old it is or if ìts important enough to keep its a citizen 17 jewels watch on bottom its says waterprotected , unbreakable spring, parashock and on the back its got written g.p CITIZEN 4-0200073 c water protected 01200966 and 63-5545 on the bottom. I would be helpful if you could help me and tell me something about its history and if I should get it appraised and valued?

Thanks for visiting my blog, and apologies for my slow reply. Your watch is an export version of the ‘Homer’, which uses the 02 movement first made in 1962. The use of ‘water protected’ etc., and no model name on the dial indicates it was made for export rather than the Japanese domestic market. The 02 movement is also indicated by the case number – 4-0200073 – and the ’63 model number is also typical of these models. the first three figures in the serial number (01200966) tell us it was made in January 1970. More info on the Homer / 02 movement here: https://sweep-hand.org/2012/02/23/this-weeks-featured-watch-23-the-homer/

Hi Maxine, apologies for the delay in replying, been busy with no-watch things and internet problems which are now resolved. I think your watch is a 21 jewel automatic, probably an ‘Eagle 7’ with the 8200 movement inside. The serial number (5D4285) is a leter style so it’s probably from 1995. More on the 8200 here: https://sweep-hand.org/2013/01/27/the-8200-movement-citizens-standard-auto/

Hi Julia, sorry but I can’t help on this one. I think your watch is an eco-drive and I don’t have info on those since they are more recent than my collection and reference material

Hi Predrag, thanks for visiting my blog. Your watch is an X8 Cosmotron with the 0840 (no date) 12 jewel movement running at 21.600 beats per hour. The serial number (00922019) gives a production date of September 1970. Lots of info on the Cosmotrons is here: https://sweep-hand.org/the-x8-cosmotron/

Hi Stephen, The Star Watch Case company was an american company , which survived up until the late 70’s so I wonder if they were supplying Citizen then ?.

Hi David – this is an interesting point; why ‘STAR’ was used on the cases puzzled me for quite a while. I emailed Citizen Japan about this, but got no response at all….However, after more research I found a reference that may explain this. Although first I should also say that I looked at whether the American ‘Star Watch Case Company’ might have supplied Citizen – I can find absolutely no reference to a contract of this kind anywhere, and I’m sure there would be if it had taken place.

But I have found a reference to a company called ‘Star Shokai’, which was originally set up in Japan to import Swiss Mido watches. Citizen took over this company in 1932. And before that time, in the early 1900s, there was a history of cases being made in Japan into Swiss movements were fitted. So my conclusion is that it’s most likely the ‘STAR’ related to this and the development of Citizen as a company when a number of business interests merged to create it in the first place.

Addendum: After writing this I did a bit more searching in my reference stuff and found this statement in a summary history of the Citizen Watch Co.: 1932 Citizen merges with the watch case factory Star Shokai

Hi George, thanks for visiting my blog. The case back page is a guide to understanding and interpreting the marks typically found on vintage case backs, so looking for ‘similar’ is a good starting point since it’s not possible to show all the permutations and models. Yours has what I call the ‘transitional’ type of case back, using the earlier style of model designation – ADSG 51302. This doesn’t indicate the movement used in the watch, unlike many of the later style backs. The letters are an abbreviated description though which is quite helpful – AD = Autodater, S = Seven (I think), and G = gold for the type of case finish. One of the case backs I show has a similar model designation – ADSS 51307. Since this one has a steel case it is ADSS rather than ADSG:

This code tells me that your watch is on of the Autodater Seven range – these used the 4101 ‘Jet’ movement, the second and last of its type as Citizen moved to more conventional swinging weight rotors. I have an example using the same 25 jewel movement as yours, see here:

Here is the back of George’s watch – it is of the ‘transitional’ type, with the early type of case model ‘number’, but the layout is a little different within the circular ‘track’:

Given this has a Spanish day wheel, and the dial isn’t marked ’40m’, and the back is a little different I reckon this is an export model. Here’s the dial:

I have a watch that was given to me that looks like this one. The day that is showing now is Mier. The front & back is identical to this one. The back of the watch says S.S. and across to the other side says STAR. It also says ADSS 51302-Y under that is 6120231

It is in great working order. It winds up for power. I haven’t any clue what it is, it’s value. Other than a few surface scratches the face is in great condition. It appears to have the original watch band. I took it in to a vintage watch and jewelry dealer and they had no clue what this was. They couldn’t find it in their “book”. Any information you are wiling to share is greatly appreciated. Where would I take it to be appraised? Is it worth getting appraised?

Hi Helen, thanks for visiting my blog