dapu lcd display manufacturer

Just recently one bike gives me a problem which I don"t know yet how to resolve, during normal cycling it may suddenly stop to assist further suport. Display blanks and I have to restart to regain support..

I opened up the compartment housing the controller to discover a Chinese Mash of wiring, but no signs of overheating or poor contacts. Tried to duplicate the problem of loosing display by pulling wires and connectors. No result.

Driving this electric bike is a Dapu MD350 mid-motor. It offers roughly 350 to 500 watts of power and up to 80 Newton meters of torque, according to the company website. As you pedal along, the motor controller listens for movement as well as pedal force to ramp up smoothly. It’s a natural feeling, very quiet motor system that weighs a bit more than average at ~11 lbs. Mid-motors utilize the same drivetrain as the rider does when pedaling, so shifting gears lower or higher reduces work and makes it more effective and efficient. It’s still up to you to shift however, and this motor controller doesn’t come with shift detection… but that’s not an issue here, because the NuVinci CVT hub won’t mash and skip the way that a sprocket and derailleur might. I’ve already talked a bit about the belt drive system, but want to further call out how Gates has designed a center-track system to keep it from slipping off. Velec did not opt for a complete belt cover, but there was an alloy chainring guard on the demo bike I tested. Interestingly, this part is not shown on their stock photo (the first picture on white above). This guard should further secure the belt and keep your pant leg and dress ends clean and snag-free. Because the motor casing and battery box are black, they do stand out a bit visually on the red and titanium colorways, but those two will probably generate more attention from motorists and potentially keep you safer than the satin black. Aside from efficiency, mid-motors also keep weight low and centered on the frame and free up the rear wheel for different drivetrain options (like the NuVinci N380 here), they tend to make wheel maintenance easier, and reduce frame flex. Velec went above and beyond to strengthen this ebike by adding gusset plating near the top and bottom sections of downtube as well as secondary chain stay tubing at the rear. Can you see how there are three tubes in the back vs. just two on a standard bicycle? This should strengthen the frame and improve stability while riding while also fortifying the rear-rack mounting position… and that’s important considering the optional rack mount battery upgrade!

Operating the Velec R48M is intuitive, but there are extra steps and more control over drive modes than most of the other electric bicycles I’ve reviewed in this category. To start, you charge and mount the battery pack… and yes, you can charge the pack while mounted to the bike by plugging in on the left side of the downtube. I love that Velec positioned the charging port high and clear of the left crank arm. And, on that note, it’s nice that they also positioned the rear kickstand clear of the left crank arm. So once the battery is in place, you hold the power button on the control pad, mounted near the left grip. The monochrome display blinks to life fairly quickly with speed, assist level, battery charge level, and trip stats. Since Canadada and the US use different units of measurement for speed, I want to point out that you can switch from MPH to KM/H and back by Holding the + and – keys on the control pad. Holding the – key alone will enter into a password menu where I’m guessing that you could adjust the speed and wheel size settings, or perform diagnostics. Holding the Set button will clear your trip meter. The control pad is fairly easy to reach and I appreciate the Set key, but wish that there was a way to operate the lights from here as well. It would be nice if you could remove the display unit to reduce damage when parking outside or at a public rack, especially since it’s a bit large. The extra toggle button on the left (not shown in my photos, and possibly not always included) allow you to switch from the main downtube battery to the optional rear rack battery. The extra red toggle button on the right allows you to turn the twist throttle on and off. This feature is wonderful to have but not always included because it can block trigger shifters. Imagine that you’re getting on or off the bike but you haven’t turned the throttle off, it could be twisted accidentally and send the bike forward. Again, nice to have this! and only really possible here because of the left grip NuVinci shifter choice. It’s neat to see how Velec paid close attention to these details. In closing, I mentioned that the battery pack has an integrated full-sized USB port near the top edge, where the flip-up handle is, and that’s nice to have if you’re navigating with a smartphone or adding extra lights etc. but it would be nice if the display panel also had a USB port built in, so the wire wouldn’t have to go as far. You could always purchase a right angle interface like this to keep the wire pointed forward.

The Dapu mid motor listens for pedal cadence and torque, making it very responsive, it doesn’t offer shift detection in this case but that’s not an issue with the NuVinci internally geared hub

The integrated headlight is mounted to the arch of the suspension and may bounce as you navigate through bumpy terrain vs. if it were mounted to the head tube, stem, or handlebar… the backlight runs on two AA batteries and takes more effort to switch on and remember to switch off after each ride, I was surprised that the headlight also still has a manual button press vs. using the main control pad/display to operate

The spring suspension fork is a little basic and does not include lockout so there can be some bobbing and dive when braking especially, mechanical disc brakes are okay but hydraulic tend to require less effort and offer more adjustability, the rubberized plastic pedals won’t cut your shins but aren’t as stiff or grippy as alloy, the display works fine but isn’t removable and doesn’t have a USB charging port built-in… thankfully, the battery pack does have a full sized USB so you could run a cable up from there

The e-bike is equipped with a DAPU central motor with a nominal power of 250 W and an integrated battery with a high capacity of 630 Wh.The maximum range per chargeis about 135 km - depending on driving conditions and the use of assistance. The advantage isthe high load capacity of the e-bike, which is up to 140 kg, so it is also suitable for people of taller figures

The Drago model has 29" wheels, an 11-speed derailleur and a practical LCD display with 5 levels of assistance and a walk function, which allows the electric drive to operate without pedaling up to 6 km / h.

PAS sensor för elcykel och el-lådcykel med DAPU motor Sensorn monteras bakom framdrevet på pedalarmsakseln. Magnetskivan har 5 magneter. Den upptäcker när pedalerna snurrar och aktiverar motor så länge pedalerna roterar. Motorn avaktiveras igen vid bromsning med pedalerna eller rotationen slutar. PAS-sensorn passar också på lådcyklar med DAPU-system från...

The reason they call the PCB in the motor a controller, rather than "the computer", is because there are two microprocessor units (MPUs) in the eBike. The display is also a computer, and it does all the calculations for the odometer and speedometer, displays the PAS setting and error codes, stores the odometer record, and controls the display panel. It is in constant communication with the MPU in the controller, which is tasked with performing diagnostics on startup and with managing the motor thereafter. (If a problem develops during operation, it will cease powering the motor and communicate an error code to the display.)

The motor and display in the MidCity are DAPU products. My display is the DAPU DPLCD-P, but the button pad shown in the picture on their website is different to mine. The MD250 is the only midmotor that DAPU currently have on their website. http://www.dapumotors.com/id-26.html?t=en-us Torque sensor and motor controller are integrated within the motor body. There have been multiple generations of DAPU midmotors, seemingly all named MD250, 250 being the power rating of the motor (250W). Apparently there is or has been available an exclusive and custom build 750W version of the motor as well, used only in the US. I suspect, from info I found on the internet, that the first generation MD250 had an external controller, but current versions of the MD250 have an internal controller.

Some web pages say that DAPU is Japanese. Dapu might have been Japanese once, but their webpage http://www.dapumotors.com/Guestbook/index.html?t=en-us gives a Chinese address. One webpage I found says that DAPU is a Chinese manufacturer under Japanese management. Most reviewers on the internet praise the DAPU products highly.

All the devices tested by the diagnostics are connected to the controller, therefore it makes sense to run the diagnostics on the controller MPU, not on the display MPU. This is hard to prove, but if you get an error code which you know is a furphy (ie, bogus), then I"d replace the controller, not the display.

⦁1 x 2-core from the Hall sensor on the frame adjacent to the rear wheel. As the magnet on the spoke passes the Hall sensor, a pulse is sent to the controller, which passes it on to the display MPU.

It is possible that Smartmotion have a customised version of the controller, with firmware written to their specifications, but far more likely is that they are using the standard DAPU firmware, but have configured the configurable parameters of the firmware to suit their particular specifications, in much the same way that different wheelchair manufacturers configure the parameters of the joystick controller on their wheelchairs to suit their particular requirements using software purchased from the manufacturer of the joystick. I wish I could get my hands on a copy of the software used to configure the (DAPU) controller of the Smartmotion - there"s one setting that really irks me.

If one did get one"s hands on the configuration software for a DAPU controller, then the means of connecting it to the Smartmotion is to unplug the Display cable from the 4 to 1 Y cable, and connect a special USB cable in place of the 4 to 1 Y cable, then plug the USB connector into a laptop and run the software. The DAPU display is a MPU itself, that communicates to the controller via 3 wire bidirectional serial comms. There are 5 wires in the multicore from the Display; one is VCC+, one is GND, and the other three are for bidirectional serial comms. Most likely SCLK (serial clock), SDIO (serial data in/ out, ie, bidirectional on one wire), and SS_n (slave select, because the chips used are designed to handle multiple slaves (Display) from one master (Controller). I haven"t bothered working out which wires are VCC & GND, but that would be easy to do. I also haven"t bothered measuring what VCC is, but again that would be easy to do. Probably the easiest way to identify which wire is which in the serial comms is to open up the Display and trace the connectors back to the serial IO chip, and check the pinouts of that chip on manufacturer"s specifications. There are cables on the market that have been designed to perform this task for a BAFANG controller, but I have absolutely no idea whether the pinouts on a BAFANG are identical to those on a DAPU. And anyway, the cable is useless unless you also have the software.

⦁1 x 3 core (red, black, white) leading into the frame of the bike. This lead goes to the controller, so clearly the controller receives instruction from the display to turn on the lights and passes on the instruction to this PCB. Red and black will be power to the PCB and the lights, and white carries the data signal to the PCB to instruct it whether to turn the lights on or off.

⦁1 x 5 core from the Display. There"ll be +VCC, GND, and three others handling bidirectional serial comms between the display MPU and the controller MPU.

This matches the 8 core harness if we assume VCC to all devices. Display has 5 wires; throttle uses VCC and GND that is also supplied to the Display, so throttle adds only 1 wire, to make 6. If the 2 x brakes are wired as OR devices, which is feasible but unlikely, then only 7 of the 8 wires in the 8 core are used. (Application of the brakes creates a connection in the reed relay in the brake sensor, so the two brake sensors could be wired in parallel, thus providing an OR logic connection for the brakes to the controller, but I"m pretty sure that the OR logic connection is done digitally at the controller and that the 2 x brakes connect separately to the controller. So we have 5 wires for the display, 1 more for the throttle, and two more for the brakes, making 8 total, which is the number of pins at the connector for the main harness.

⦁Inputs from switches go direct to the display by a separate cable - there are two cables at the display: the in cable from the switches, and the cable leading to the harness that leads to the controller

⦁Error codes. All the inputs needed for diagnostics are connected to the controller, not the display, so it makes sense to run the diagnostics on the controller and report the results to the display MPU.

The display almost certainly calculates battery voltage from it"s own VCC+ve and GND, independent of the controller"s assessment of voltage, and thus the display is quite capable of displaying the correct battery voltage whilst simultaneously displaying an error code 9 (high voltage), not knowing that it is displaying inconsistent data.

Processing of odometer and speed info is all done in the display MPU (microprocessor unit) from one single input: the pulses generated by the Hall sensor on the rear wheel. The distance travelled is stored in the memory of the display, not in the memory of the controller, because you can replace the controller without affecting the stored memory of distance travelled.

Communications between the display and the controller has to be serial and bidirectional; there aren"t enough wires coming out of the display for comms to be anything else. There are five wires to the display.

The three wires unaccounted for by VCC and GND have to be bidirectional serial comms - there aren"t enough wires to be anything else. Most likely they are SCLK (serial clock), SDIO (serial data in/ out, ie, bidirectional on one wire), and SS_n (slave select). The Slave Select line is probably used for handshaking. In the case of the ebike, there is only one slave: the display, but the chips used are capable of communicating between master and multiple slaves. It"s half-duplex synchronous communications, bidirectional over the SDIO line. Typically it"s a fixed length packet, so that each end knows if they get the full message. Web page https://www.digikey.com/eewiki/pages/viewpage.action?pageId=27754638 proves 3 wire bidirectional comms components exist; whether this is precisely how the job is done on the Smartmotion is unknown, but it has to be 3 wire bidirectional comms between the display and the controller on the DAPU system because there aren"t enough wires for it to be anything else.

Dapu motors is a Japanese motor company which has factory in China. It was one of the best e-bike motor manufacturer which was famous for high power motors. But unfortunately this gradually changed and there are more powerful hub motors produced by other companies. On top of that their hub motors and torque sensors start to create lots of problems. I receive lots of messages by Evelo or Pedego owners who complain about the motors in the last 2 years.

As I know Dapu doesn’t sell motor kits but I see some companies make kits from Dapu motor system and sell them online. I advice you to buy Dapu 48V 500w hub motor or more powerful on your kit.

I am not big fan of crankset comes with motors. As motor manufacturers try to cut the corner and supply with cheaper crankset. If you buying your system for mtb purposes I advice you to check if your e-bike uses default crankset or use another crankset with dapu motor. This is same for Bafang and shengyi too. The default crankset is at best a mediocre crankset.

According to many e-bikes I tried and tested I can easily say Dapu is way better than Bafang if we are talking purely about the motor. Bafang has certain advantages too such as in Europe they have a good after sales service. Besides that for mid-drive motors I like the complete package of Bafang as they come with neat looking display compared to outdated old looking display of Dapu. I guess that is why every e-bike system who uses Dapu motors choose 3rd party displays on their electric bikes.