can power conditioners cause lcd displays to function manufacturer

The HD Guru’s readers have asked for the real story on power line conditioners. Are they really needed with an HDTV? Do they provide a sharper picture as some salesmen claim? How well do they protect the TV in case of a lightening strike or other electrical spike? What about surge protectors and uninterruptible power supplies (UPS)? The HD Guru responds.

In the United States the alternating current (AC) sent from your electric company should be delivered to your home at a steady rate of 120 volts at 60 cycles per second. In some parts of the US, there are variations, resulting in voltages that are either too high or too low. Sometimes interruptions cut the power altogether. Delivery of too much power is called a voltage surge; too little, a voltage droop or sag. Electrical storms can deliver lightening strikes, which can produce catastrophic voltage surges capable of destroying the power supplies of all the electronics plugged into the system, whether they’re powered up or not. Air conditioner and refrigerator motors powering on and off can also cause momentary voltage fluctuations. Another potential power problem is electrical interference caused by industrial grade electrical equipment operating nearby as would be found in a factory. Your home’s wiring may also pick up electrical line interference or radio frequency interference (RFI) caused by, among other things, broadcast transmitters located in your vicinity.

Fluctuating voltages can cause lights to brighten and dim. TV, lights and other electrical devices may momentarily shut off due to total voltage dropouts. Radio frequency interference can create hum and/or video noise bars and static.

Power conditioners can’t give your digital HDTV a sharper picture or better color, regardless of display technology, whether plasma, LCD, DLP, SXRD, or DILA rear projection. Period. Resolution is, by definition fixed, and so cannot be increased. If a salesman tells you otherwise, ask why are there no power conditioners connected to the dozens of TVs on display. All HDTVs have internal power supplies designed to filter and transform the incoming AC to voltages necessary for the set’s operational needs. These built-in power supplies do a great job, and are designed to accept a fairly wide range of line voltages. Can a power conditioner clean up heavy interference in your power line? Yes, but most of the time they are simply not necessary and will be of no use because the vast majority of households are free of electrical interference.

While power conditioners cannot improve your picture, a surge protector can protect your set in the event of a power surge. What’s needed depends on the display and the amount of protection you can afford. For LCDs and plasmas the HD Guru suggests a surge protector at the very minimum. According to experts, the rating should be at least 360 joules. These are very inexpensive, with prices starting at under $20. For lamp driven devices such as microdisplay front and rear projectors, including LCOS (Sony SXRD and JVC DiLA), DLP and LCD, you should purchase an uninterruptible power supplies (UPS). The HD Guru also recommends using the UPS with digital video recorders (DVRs like TiVo). A UPS will prevent the lamp’s cooling fan motor (or hard drive in the DVR) from shutting off during a power failure. You need just enough battery power to cool off the projector to prevent premature lamp failure or a DVR’s power down. 10 minutes worth of battery back up is more than sufficient. Virtually all UPS units also have built-in surge protection.

UPSs’ are either on-line or off-line designs. The on-lines are best because they actively filter and convert AC wall power into DC (Direct Current) to charge the battery, while simultaneously converting the DC back to AC to run your HDTV or DVR. In addition to offering excellent line conditioning, on-line UPS systems provide surge protection. Because it’s “on-line” there is no voltage drop when the AC power fails. The switch to battery backup is seamless.

The Tripp-Lite SU750XL is a good on-line UPS. Rated at 750VA, it will run a 500-watt load for about 10 minutes, which is plenty of time to cool off the lamp in any projector or properly shut down a TiVo. While it retails for $449, a quick internet search found it for $288.93 + shipping.

Depending upon capacity off-line UPS prices start at around $40. Because the AC in/out circuitry is not coupled to the output there’s around a 1-millisecond switch between line current and battery power. Virtually all have built-in surge protection and many of the mid size and larger one also have line conditioners.

Bottom line? Instead of selecting a line conditioner with surge protection, which can cost up to $500 or more, get first-rate protection that includes surge and battery backup plus top quality line conditioning, for under $300 by purchasing an on-line UPS. For under $100 you can be protected from the most common surge and short-term power loss problems with a UPS with surge protection combo.

Whether you’re building a home theater or have had yours set up for years, longevity is of utmost importance to you, because you want your investment to last for as long as possible. So what can you do to keep your home theater in great working condition for years to come? You may have heard about how a power conditioner can be a great solution to increase the longevity of home entertainment equipment!

So do you need a power conditioner for a home theater? Yes, a power conditioner is a vital piece of equipment that filters out the “dirty” power and keeps your expensive equipment safer and functioning more efficiently. It helps to ensure that your equipment lasts for as long as possible.

In our post, 10 Ways to Protect Home Theater Equipment, we explained that power, by nature, is dirty. When your power runs throughout your equipment in your home theater, small dips and spikes in electricity can cause damage to your equipment. A power conditioner filters these out, and in turn, better protects your equipment. Additionally, a power conditioner typically also filters out AC line noise. Check out this YouTube demonstration by Panamax on how power conditioners work.

So if you have expensive equipment in your home theater, as many of us do, a power conditioner is a great investment for you! Whether you want a budget-friendly or high-end power conditioner, you’ll be able to find one that meets your needs. In addition, many power conditioners come with great additional protection features, like surge protection to help your home theater equipment’s longevity in every way possible. No matter what your budget is, you’ll find that a power conditioner is a great investment for your home theater equipment, helping it last for many more years.

If you’re still not convinced that you need a power conditioner for your home theater, here are some reasons why it’s a great investment for many home theaters or home entertainment systems.

When it comes to home theaters, most are built with a lot of expensive equipment, even if there are some components that are on the lower end. Whether it’s an expensive receiver, subwoofer(s), front speakers, or all of the above, you want to do everything you can to protect your equipment from damage.

Maybe you’ve only taken precautions against physical, visible damage to your home theater equipment, but what about the damage you can’t see? Internally, your equipment goes through a lot. Are you doing everything you can to keep everything running smoothly and efficiently? The best option for you to keep your equipment up-to-speed internally is through the use of a power conditioner.

If you have a home theater in your living room, the chances are that it gets a good amount of use. Whether you’re watching movies with your kids and family regularly or you’re a die-hard sports fan that loves to watch your games, then your home theater definitely gets used a fair amount. This will bring on a lot of internal wear and tear on the smaller components within the equipment. Normally, lots of wear and tear can shorten the lifetime of your equipment, so you’ll want to do everything you can to extend that lifetime. One surefire way to add years onto your equipment’s life, in the midst of lots of everyday use, is through the use of a power conditioner.

It’s not every day that you buy new home theater equipment. It takes lots of time, energy, research, and testing to decide what is right for you. And it’s likely that you took a couple of years saving up money to buy the individual components. The last thing you’d hope for is to have to replace your expensive receiver or subwoofer within a few years! You wouldn’t want to replace any of your components with less than what you have, and it may not be in your budget to purchase the same caliber equipment, if something were to happen.

The good news is that, with a small investment in a power conditioner, you’ll be able to trust that your equipment will be highly protected from internal damage, and you won’t have to worry about making room in your budget for an emergency replacement anytime soon. Additionally, many power conditioner and surge protector manufacturers will actually back their product with money, even though it’s a good practice to replace them every 2 years anyway as we explained in our tutorial! Depending on the product and manufacturer, if something were to happen to a piece of equipment, it’s possible that the company would cover the damages and replace the equipment.

Budget– When deciding which power conditioner is right for you, you’ll need to figure out your budget. You can find a great power conditioner for many home theaters for under $100 such as the Furman M-8X2. This unit is a great budget power conditioner with 8 outlets and built-in surge protection! Or if you want to splurge, you can find one for a couple or few hundred dollars for really high-end equipment such as the Panamax MR4300. This unit is specifically built for home theater systems. It includes both power conditioning, surge protection, and even comes with a lifetime connected equipment protection policy!

Of course, there are a few differences between the high-end and budget-friendly models, such as the number of outlets and the level and quality of the power filtration. One similar feature you’ll find across all models of power conditioners is surge protection, which is a great add-on to the protection of power conditioning.

Your needs– It’s important to also know what the power needs of your home theater are. How big is your home theater? What type of equipment are you using? You’ll need to know the power capabilities of all of your home theater equipment, so that you can match your power conditioner with your current system. The power conditioner you choose has to be able to handle the amount of power that you’re sending through it from your equipment. For example, you’ll need to know if it has to the right amount of high current plugs for equipment like your subwoofer and receiver.

Where to go – There are a lot of places you can turn to, when you’re ready to browse and buy a power conditioner for your home theater. Amazon is one destination that many home theater gurus turn to, because you can easily look at hundreds of reviews to see what the best products are and what the downfalls are of each. In addition, you can go to any tech destination, such as Best Buy and other tech stores in your local area. It might be helpful to talk to one of the professionals in-store and physically see the different options to choose from.

Not sure if you need to consult an expert for your power conditioner purchase or if you should just browse online and make a selection? If you’re unsure of any of the specs of your home theater equipment and how much power your home theater system uses, you’ll definitely want to seek the advice of a home theater or tech expert. Additionally, if you’re unsure of which brand of power conditioner is best for you or what capabilities you need in your power conditioner, it’s a great idea to speak to a tech professional.

One of the easiest ways to do this is by going to a tech store, because they specifically hire people that can help with this. In fact, you’ll probably learn more than you even thought possible about which choice is the best for your specific home theater.

Is a UPS a power conditioner? A UPS is an uninterrupted power supply. It provides backup power in the event of a power outage. Most UPSs will have built-in power conditioning and surge protection. However, this isn’t standard on all uninterrupted power supplies, so check the specs before you purchase.

What are some brands to keep an eye out for?When it comes to power conditioners, there are a few brands that stand out above the rest, like Panamax, Furman, APC, Pyle, Bryston, and PS Audio. Monster is a popular entry-level brand, but the quality is typically rated less than the aforementioned brands, which have power conditioner models for all budgets and needs.

Is there any reason that my home theater doesn’t need a power conditioner?Although a power conditioner is a great investment for most home theaters, it is not 100% necessary if you have an overall low-end home theater system. Power conditioners are most useful for high-end equipment in home theaters, so if you have any expensive equipment in your home theater, it is important to purchase a power conditioner. If not, then you won’t need to purchase a power conditioner for your home theater. Just know that it’s likely that your equipment will degrade a faster rate and is more suseptible to

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In the United States, National Electric Code article 210-19 FPN No. 4. suggests a 5% maximum combined voltage drop on the feeder and branch circuits to the furthest outlet "will provide reasonable efficiency of operation." The Canadian electrical code also requires no more than a 5% drop between the meter and outlet. Applying the 5% tolerance gives a nominal 120V range of 114V to 126V.

Yes, a power conditioner will stabilize the voltage from a generator. However, it will not convert the modified sine wave produced by some generators to pure sine wave, making those generators unsuitable for sensitive electronics.

Yes, but not with the printer itself. Printers and copiers use a hot roller called a fuser unit to bind ink toner to the paper as it passes through the printer. Periodically, the printer needs to reheat the fuser unit to the required temperature, and this requires a lot of electricity. To prevent a power sag (under-voltage) from impacting computers and other sensitive equipment on the same circuit as the printer, use a power conditioner with Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR).

Connecting a printer to a line conditioner may prevent the printer from getting the voltage it needs. A better approach would be to have a qualified electrician check the capacity of the existing line and add a separate circuit for the printer if necessary.

A power or voltage spike is a sudden increase in voltage, ranging from a few hundred volts to tens of thousands and lasting between 1 and 30 microseconds. A power surge is like a spike but lasts longer. Voltage fluctuations are normal and do not typically harm equipment connected to an outlet. Over- or under-voltages occur when the voltage reaching powered devices falls out of the normal service range.

As a power conditioner corrects high or low input voltage, it will make a gentle clicking sound. The frequency of the clicking will depend on the quality of the utility power in your area. The clicking is normal, and no action is required on your part.

A power conditioner can potentially improve sound quality by providing a cleaner and more stable power supply to audio equipment. Power fluctuations and electrical noise can interfere with the performance of audio equipment, leading to degradation in sound quality. By conditioning the power, a power conditioner can reduce the amount of electrical noise and provide a stable voltage, which can result in improved sound quality.

However, it is important to note that the effect of a power conditioner on sound quality can vary depending on the equipment and the specific electrical problems being addressed. In some cases, the improvement in sound quality may be minimal or not noticeable, while in other cases it can be significant.

A power conditioner is an electrical device that improves the quality of the power supplied to an electrical load by regulating voltage, reducing noise, and filtering out electrical disturbances. The goal of a power conditioner is to protect sensitive electronic equipment from damage caused by power fluctuations and electrical noise.

A surge protector, on the other hand, is specifically designed to protect electronic equipment from damage caused by power surges and spikes. It accomplishes this by diverting excess voltage away from connected equipment.

Some power conditioners include surge protection as part of their functionality, effectively combining the two functions into a single device. In these cases, the power conditioner can improve the quality of the power supply while also providing protection against power surges and spikes.

If improved sound quality is your primary goal, an isolation transformer is the best choice. Microphones, instruments and amplifiers can pick up unwanted hums or buzzes if they are plugged into the same circuit as items such as fluorescent lights, air conditioners and dimmer switches. If your band is playing in a bar, even the bartender"s blender is a potential source of interference!

An isolation transformer uses two coils of copper wire, wound so that the primary coil connected to incoming AC power induces a current in the secondary coil powering connected devices. Since there is no direct connection between the coils, musical instruments and recording equipment attached to the secondary coil are isolated from audio frequency noise on the power line.

So in this ultimate guide, we’re going to solve that problem once-and-for-all by removing all the jargon and giving you just the straight forward facts.

Quite often, potential buyers fair understand the difference between these two similar tools. Many will even mistake one for the other, and end up buying the wrong one.

Uninterruptible Power Supplies – contain a backup battery that provides several minutes of power in the event of a blackout, and are typically used with computers to protect sensitive data by allowing enough time for proper shutdown.

While this method works well for most of the time, the switching process does cause a momentary power lapse, which is dangerous for highly-sensitive equipment.

So unlike the standby UPS which engages only when there’s a problem…the online UPS continuously filters power through the battery before sending it to your computer.

However…to increase energy efficiency, a similar online method known as delta conversion also exists…which delivers a portion of the power directly to the computer, rather than through the battery.

The standby UPS has trouble handling these sort of interruptions because they must repeatedly switch back and forth between AC and battery power with each dip.

The Online UPS on the other hand, is great at handling brownouts, as they’re able to maintain a consistent voltage by continuously running off battery power. But as you know…they’re expensive.

Using a special type of transformer, it varies output voltage in response to momentary power fluctuations. So when the power dips, the transformer is still able maintain a stable output without switching over to battery power.

However, other factors affect run-time as well, such as the battery condition, and load required to power all connected devices. So actual run times may still stretch far outside that range.

Performance Monitoring – built-in displays that show real-time stats including run-time, battery health, etc. Software versions also exist, some smart enough to shut down your computer automatically when battery reserves drop too low.

If you found this post useful, you might be interested to know that it’s actually an excerpt module from our 6-chapter Home Recording Mastery Blueprint.

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For small/medium size televisions, LCD is clearly the choice for those of you with limited power. The other great news is that they are getting cheaper as time goes on. Coles and a number of supermarkets are now selling 38 cm LCD televisions for under AUS$200.

I say "if" because they are designed to run off a 230V-12V regulated power supply. This is not the same as running it direct from a 12V solar system where the battery voltage can easily range from 11 to 15 volts. An even wider variance is possible with flat or failing batteries; a battery system being equalised to 15.5-16 volts etc.

There appears to be a few brands that can definitely be run off a battery and these are marketed to the caravan and yachting market. Majestic LCD televisions will operate between 10.9 and 15.5 volts. Xien sell a range for the marine industry. Sharp televisions are also sold as "12 volts" but come with a $140 special 12 V lead. I suggest this has a power conditioner on it. Dick Smith once sold (and may still do so) an AC/DC 15 inch model.

Most people assume that all the brands would operate satisfactorily but we are unable to recommend this without information from the manufacturers. If any of you have information or experience in this regard, please let me know.

The power "saving" of being able to run it direct is significant. From my observations, the 230 to 12V adapter supplied with the television is only about 50% efficient. By the time you then use an inverter to change your 12V to 230V, I estimate that you could be tripling your power consumption.

For those of you on 24 volts, an efficient 24 to 12V converter is a reasonable option. I tested the 15" Music TV using our 8A voltage reducer (APX-006 - discontinued) and it used a modest 1 amp on 24 volts.

For the "big end of town", a consumer magazine tested 4 popular brands of large LCD and Plasma televisions for power consumption. Interestingly, the 45/ 46 inch Plasma televisions used 260 –286 watts while the 42/43 inch Plasma televisions used significantly less (183- 186 watts). All four used between 0.67 and 1.4 watts on stand by.

Troubleshooting CRTs versus LCDs begins with similar steps, but diverges due to the differing natures of the two display types. The first troubleshooting steps are similar for either display type: power down the system and display and then power them back up; make sure the power cable is connected and that the outlet has power; verify that the signal cable is connected firmly to both video adapter and display and that there are no bent pins; verify that the video adapter is configured properly for the display; try the problem display on a known-good system, or try a known-good display on the problem system; and so on. Once you"ve tried the "obvious" troubleshooting steps, if the problem persists, the next step you take depends on the type of display. The following sections cover basic troubleshooting for CRTs and LCDs.

CRTs seldom fail outright without obvious signs, such as a loud snap or a strong odor of burning electrical components. Most CRT problems are really problems with the power, video adapter, cable, or hardware/software settings. To eliminate the CRT as a possible cause, connect the suspect CRT to a known-good system, or connect a known-good display to the suspect system. It is worth noting, that older CRTs eventually wear out, and starts dimming. Common signs of a weak CRT are a dim picture, dysfunctional brightness and/or color controls, image smearing at high brightness, and in color CRTs, a tint towards a single color (Red Green Blue)

Even if the CRT is in warranty, the shipping costs may exceed the value of the CRT. For example, shipping a CRT both ways can easily cost $75 or more. If that CRT is a year-old 17" model, you"re probably better off spending $100 to $200 for a new 17" or 19" CRT than paying $75 in shipping to have the old one repaired. CRTs have many components, all of which age together. Fixing one is no guarantee that another won"t fail shortly. In fact, that happens more often than not in our experience.

Never disassemble a CRT. At best, you may destroy the CRT. At worst, it may destroy you. Like televisions, CRTs use extremely high voltages internally, and have large capacitors that store that energy for days or even weeks after the CRT is unplugged. Robert once literally burned a screwdriver in half when working inside a color television that had been unplugged for several days. Also, the large, fragile tube may implode, scattering glass fragments like a hand grenade. People who repair CRTs and televisions for a living treat them with great respect, and so should you. If you must repair a CRT, take it to someone who knows what they are doing. You have been warned.

Check the obvious things first. Verify that the CRT is plugged in (and that the receptacle has power), the video cable is connected to the video card, the computer and CRT are turned on, and the brightness and contrast settings are set to the middle of their range. If none of these steps solves the problem, your CRT, video card, or video cable may be bad. Check the suspect CRT on a known-good system or a known-good CRT on the problem system.

CRTs contain multiple filaments, which can be broken, or gas may have leaked into the vacuum inside the CRT. CRTs damaged this way are unrepairable without specialist equipment. With the display open. check if all three filaments are glowing bright orange. Excessive redness or purple arcing signifies gas has leaked in. There may also be an internal short inside the CRT, which is also unfixable without specialist equipment.

If you have ACPI or APM power management enabled, it may be causing the problem. Some systems simply refuse to wake up once power management puts them to sleep. We have seen such systems survive a hardware reset without restoring power to the CRT. To verify this problem, turn off power to the system and CRT and then turn them back on. If the CRT then displays an image, check the power management settings in your BIOS and operating system and disable them if necessary.

Catastrophic CRT failure is imminent. The noises are caused by high-voltage arcing, and the smell is caused by burning insulation. Unplug the CRT from the wall before it catches fire, literally.

There are two likely causes. First, you may be driving the CRT beyond its design limits. Some CRTs display a usable image at resolutions and/or refresh rates higher than they are designed to use, but under such abuse the expected life of the CRT is shortened dramatically, perhaps to minutes. To correct this problem, change video settings to values that are within the CRT"s design specifications. Second, the power receptacle may be supplying voltage lower than the CRT requires. To correct this problem, connect the CRT to a different circuit or to a UPS or power conditioner that supplies standard voltage regardless of input voltage.

This is usually a minor hardware problem. The most likely cause is that the signal cable is not connected tightly to the CRT and/or video card, causing some pins to make contact intermittently or not at all. Verify that no pins are loose, bent, or missing on the cable or the connectors on the CRT and video card, and then tighten the cable at both ends, If that doesn"t fix the problem, open the computer, remove the video card, and reseat it fully.

In elderly systems, another possible cause is that some hardware DVD decoder cards "steal" one color (usually magenta) and use it to map the DVD video signal onto the standard video signal. Remove the DVD decoder card. If your video adapter includes hardware DVD support, or if you are upgrading to such an adapter, you don"t need a DVD decoder card.

The most likely cause is that the CRT is receiving inadequate power. Connect it to a different circuit or to a backup power supply that provides correct voltage regardless of fluctuations in mains voltage.

The most likely cause is that the refresh rate is set too low. Change the refresh rate to at least 75 Hz. Flicker also results from interaction with fluorescent lights, which operate on 60 Hz AC and can heterodyne visually with the CRT. This can occur at 60 Hz (which is far too low a refresh rate anyway), but can also occur at 120 Hz. If you"re running at 120 Hz refresh and experience flicker, either use incandescent lighting or reset the refresh rate to something other than 120 Hz.

The video card settings are likely outside the range supported by the CRT, particularly if you have just installed the CRT or have just changed video settings. To verify this, restart the system in Safe Mode (press F8 during boot to display the Windows boot menu and choose Safe Mode). If the system displays a VGA image properly, change your display settings to something supported by the CRT.

Most modern CRTs can display signals at many different scan frequencies, but this doesn"t mean that the CRT will necessarily automatically display different signals full-screen and properly aligned. Use the CRT controls to adjust the size and alignment of the image.

Depending on the CRT, video card, and video settings, this may be normal behavior, adjustable using the CRT controls. If the distortion is beyond the ability of the controls to correct, the problem may be with the video card, the CRT, or the driver. First try changing video settings. If the problem persists at several settings, move that CRT to a different system (or use a different video card) to determine whether the problem is caused by the CRT or video card. Repair or replace the faulty component.

This is usually caused by RF interference from another electrical or electronic device, particularly one that contains a motor. Make sure such devices are at least three feet from the CRT. Note that such interference can sometimes penetrate typical residential and office walls, so if the CRT is close to a wall, check the other side. Such image problems can also be caused by interference carried by the power line or by voltage variations in the AC power supply. To eliminate interference, plug the CRT into a surge protector. Better still, plug it into a UPS or power conditioner that supplies clean power at a constant voltage.

This problem may also be caused by using a video cable that is too long or of poor quality or by using a poor-quality KVM switch (keyboard/video/mouse switch). Manual KVM switches are particularly problematic.

The CRT may need to be degaussed. A CRT that sits in one position for months or years can be affected even by the earth"s very weak magnetic field, causing distortion and other display problems. Exposing a CRT to a strong magnetic field, such as unshielded speakers, can cause more extreme image problems. Many modern CRTs degauss themselves automatically each time you cycle the power, but some have a manual degauss button that you must remember to use. If your CRT has a manual degauss button, use it every month or two. The degaussing circuitry in some CRTs has limited power. We have seen CRTs that were accidentally exposed to strong magnetic fields, resulting in a badly distorted image. Built-in degaussing did little or nothing. In that case, you can sometimes fix the problem by using a separate degaussing coil, available at RadioShack and similar stores for a few dollars. We have, however, seen CRTs that were so badly "magnet burned" that even a standalone degaussing coil could not completely eliminate the problem. The moral is to keep magnets away from your CRT, including those in speakers that are not video-shielded.

An incorrect yoke may have been attached to the CRT. Unless you have a lot of spare time on your hands, this is usually not worth fixing. Replace the display.

You may have a weak picture tube. Without specialist equipment, this is usually unfixable. You could try a CRT rejuvenator as a last resort, but this may fix or kill your CRT permanently.

If your LCD displays no image at all and you are certain that it is receiving power and video signal, first adjust the brightness and contrast settings to higher values. If that doesn"t work, turn off the system and LCD, disconnect the LCD signal cable from the computer, and turn on the LCD by itself. It should display some sort of initialization screen, if only perhaps a "No video signal" message. If nothing lights up and no message is displayed, contact technical support for your LCD manufacturer. If your LCD supports multiple inputs, you may need to press a button to cycle through the inputs and set it to the correct one.

Unlike CRTs, where increasing the refresh rate always reduces flicker, LCDs have an optimal refresh rate that may be lower than the highest refresh rate supported. For example, a 17" LCD operating in analog mode may support 60 Hz and 75 Hz refresh. Although it sounds counterintuitive to anyone whose experience has been with CRTs, reducing the refresh rate from 75 Hz to 60 Hz may improve image stability. Check the manual to determine the optimum refresh rate for your LCD, and set your video adapter to use that rate.

First, try setting the optimal refresh rate as described above. If that doesn"t solve the problem and you are using an analog interface, there are several possible causes, most of which are due to poor synchronization between the video adapter clock and the display clock, or to phase problems. If your LCD has an auto-adjust, auto-setup, or auto-synchronize option, try using that first. If not, try adjusting the phase and/or clock settings manually until you have a usable image. If you are using an extension or longer than standard video cable, try connecting the standard video cable that was supplied with the display. Long analog video cables exacerbate sync problems. Also, if you are using a KVM switch, particularly a manual model, try instead connecting the LCD directly to the video adapter. Many LCDs are difficult or impossible to synchronize if you use a KVM switch. If you are unable to achieve proper synchronization, try connecting the LCD to a different computer. If you are unable to achieve synchronization on the second computer, the LCD may be defective. Finally, note that some models of video adapter simply don"t function well with some models of LCD.

If the screen is displaying a full, stable image, but that image is of poor quality, first verify that the display is not connected through a KVM switch or using an extension cable. If so, connect the display directly to the video adapter using the standard cable. If that is already the case, adjust the brightness, contrast, and focus controls. If you are unable to get a proper image using these controls, the problem is most likely a clock or phase mismatch, which you can cure by taking the steps described in the preceding item.

The best way to adjust clock and phase is to use auto-adjust first. Check the utility and driver CD that came with the monitor. It may have a wizard or at least the appropriate background screens to use while adjusting phase and clock settings. If not, go to the Windows Start menu and select Shutdown. When the screen goes gray and the Windows Shutdown dialog appears, leave that dialog onscreen, but ignore it. Use the gray screen to adjust clock and phase manually. Any problems with clock and phase and any changes you make to the clock and phase settings are clearly evident on the gray screen.

Always adjust clock first. Clock is usually not a problem if you have used the auto-adjust feature of your monitor, but if you do have clock problems they will be evident as large vertical bars on your screen. Tweak the clock setting until those bars disappear. Then adjust phase. Phase problems are evident as thin black lines running horizontally across the screen. Adjust phase until the lines disappear or are minimized.

Not all analog video cards synchronize perfectly with flat panels. The gray Shutdown screen exaggerates the problem, so don"t worry if very tiny movements are visible after you"ve adjusted clock and phase as well as possible. After you"ve set the clock and phase controls for the best image possible on the gray screen, cancel Shutdown and the image should be optimized.

Your video card is supplying a video signal at a bandwidth that is above or below the ability of your LCD to display. Reset your video parameters to be within the range supported by the LCD. If necessary, temporarily connect a different display or start Windows in Safe Mode and choose standard VGA in order to change video settings.

This occurs when you run an LCD at other than its native resolution. For example, if you have a 19" LCD with native 1280x1024 resolution but have your display adapter set to 1024x768, your LCD attempts to display those 1024x768 pixels at full screen size, which physically corresponds to 1280x1024 pixels. The pixel extrapolation needed to fill the screen with the smaller image results in artifacts such as blocky or poorly rendered text, jaggy lines, and so on. Either set your video adapter to display the native resolution of the LCD, or set your LCD to display the lower-resolution image without stretching the display (a feature sometimes referred to as display expansion), so that pixels are displayed 1:1, which results in the lower resolution using less than the entire screen.

This is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models, caused by defective pixels. Manufacturers set a threshold number below which they consider a display acceptable. That number varies with the manufacturer, the model, and the size of the display, but is typically in the range of 5 to 10 pixels. (Better LCDs nowadays usually have zero dead pixels.) Nothing can be done to fix defective pixels. Manufacturers will not replace LCDs under warranty unless the number of defective pixels exceeds the threshold number.

Some people claim that leaving the unit powered off for a day or two will "erase" a persistent after-image. Others suggest leaving a neutral gray screen (like the one used for phase adjustment) up on the screen to "equalize" the display. I dunno. FWIW, I"ve seen this problem on older Samsung panels but never on the Sony or NEC/LaCie panels I use.

Again, this is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models. The after-image occurs when the display has had the same image in one place for a long time. The after-image may persist even after you turn the display off.

Transistor-based pixels in an LCD respond more slowly than the phosphors in a CRT. The least-expensive LCDs exhibit this problem even with slow image movement, as when you drag a window. Better LCDs handle moderately fast image movement without ghosting, but exhibit the problem on fast-motion video. The best LCDs handle even fast-motion video and 3D gaming very well. The only solution to this problem is to upgrade to an LCD with faster response time.

Use the brightness control to increase image brightness. If you have set brightness to maximum and the image is still too dim, contact the display manufacturer. The CCRTs used to backlight the screen have a finite lifetime and may begin to dim as they near the end of their life.

If one or more horizontal and/or vertical lines appear on the display, first power-reset the computer and display. If the lines persist, run the auto-setup function of your display. If that does not solve the problem, power the system and display down, remove the video cable, and verify that the video plugs and jacks on both computer and display ends do not have broken or bent pins. Even if all appears correct, try a different video cable. If the problem persists, contact the display manufacturer.

Does your home have sensitive home theatre electronic appliances? Do you want these electronic devices to be protected? The best way to protect these appliances is by installing a power conditioner at home. So, what does one mean by that? A power conditioner is basically a product which allows electrical appliances to be safe by filtering out all the fluctuating power. They enable the appliances to perform at the best speed and keep them long-lasting.

When you visit shops or online sites for power conditioners, you will see that several options can be confusing. Finding the correct one can be very difficult, so we have listed some factors that will help you choose the best product.

Type: There are three power conditioners- Tower, Rack Mount, and Wall Mount. Among them, the tower ones are compact, the rack mount ones can allow many appliances at once, and the wall mount ones have mounting ears and can be attached anywhere.

Power: You need to add the power of each electrical appliance you want to connect to the power conditioner. Now, you need to check the power of these conditioners and buy the one correct for you accordingly.

Voltage: You need to check the voltage of the power conditioner before buying one. You need to see that the voltage supply to your home and the one in the power conditioner match.

More details on the features to look for when buying power conditioners are mentioned in the “Buying Guide” later in the article. Now, in the next section, we have listed the best power conditioners with their best features, advantages and disadvantages. Read on to pick your best power conditioner.

M-8×2 power conditioner features a total of 9 power outlets, out of which 8 are in the rear panel, and one is in the front panel as the convenience power outlet. The EMI/RFI filters reduce ‘pop’ sound and improve sound quality.  Also, the search and spike protector guarantees that these appliances are safe and clean power is provided to the instruments. Additionally, it features a 15 amp rating along with the circuit breaker and front panel indicator, which lets you know that the electronic devices are protected. More than 23 dB, 200kHz to 10Mhz filtration rating makes the product suitable for all kinds of musical activities.

This Pyle power conditioner features a microcontroller which allows precise high-level timing. The inbuilt EMI filter has two stages for each power outlet on the rare panel. Further, the master automatic unit display allows the power conditioner to link series with 100 units or more. All nine channels are connected to an output break switch which monitors the incoming AC voltage in real-time. The LED display shows the AC voltage, temperature, power, bypass, master, ground and wiring status. Moreover, the time display is segregated into 7 different LED segments.

The exclusive SMP technology used by Furman allows the power conditioner to provide the best protection against spikes and surges. Secondly, noise contamination and inter-part interference are reduced with the installation of isolated output banks. There are a total of 9 outlets which enable you to connect the power conditioner to 9 different musical appliances. Then, the LED voltmeter shows the incoming voltage clearly and allows us to monitor it. The pullout LED lights make it easy to manage and control the product.

The power-up features 3 delayed outlet systems ranging from zones 1 to 3 digital power, analog power and high power filter outlets. While turning them off, the reverse order takes place, and high power turns off first. Further, it features multi-stage noise filtration for reducing frequency interference(RFI) and electromagnetic interference(EMI). The LED display is quite advanced as it shows the zone status, abnormal voltage, wiring fault, open breaker along with the incoming AC voltage. The rear panel features 8 switched outlets, and the front panel has 2 unswitched outlets, which allow a total of 15 amps rating without circuit breakage.

Power conditioning or sequencing helps the musical equipment to be provided with power in different stages. This also allows the equipment to have rest time before the next level is engaged. On the flip side, while powering down, the conditioner reverses the sequence order and helps in the soft landing of your electronic musical equipment. It also protects against power surges or spikes for fragile appliances or in case of circuit breaker failure. Further, they improve the sound quality by removing the unwanted “pop” sound. The RFI/EMI filter checks for all kinds of writing faults and indicates if the AC is incorrectly connected by lighting an LED light.

The switches are mixed of low power and high power with two unswitched outlets in the front panel. The power conditioner also features removable rack mount ears which allow it to be installed anywhere.

This power conditioner is enhanced with 8 filtered power outlets and 4 unfiltered power outlets allowing it to be connected to 12 electronic equipment at the same time. Moreover, the overload protection technology turns off the sockets once the power exceeds 15 amps, and the power is restored by the reset button. The phase detector technology detects the ground wire and phase wire of the AC source and turns a light on to indicate when the phase is correct. Now, the voltage protection technology is capable of saving the pieces of equipment from any voltage fluctuations and also ensures optimal spike and surge protection.

The power clean technology is featured in this power conditioner which enables better picture and sound quality. The voltage meter in the front panel helps to know if the voltage power in the socket is stable.

This power conditioner unit features eight filtered and switchable power outlets on the rear side. These rear power outlets are also surge protected which restricts excess power flow to the equipment. On the front panel of the power conditioner, this power conditioner has one switchable power outlet and one USB cable. Also, this unit features a high-end noise filtering technology which allows it to filter out around 90% of unwanted sound. Based on this feature, PG-X is ahead in the race as compared to its contemporaries as they can filter only 76% of the noise.

It safeguards your speakers and other expensive, sensitive and valuable equipment with 8 rear power outlets that are sequenced horizontally. With each power outlet, there is an individual indicator and switch on the front panel. The innovative power sequencing feature supplies power to your equipment in stages so that it can stabilize and is not charged with too much power in one go. There are also two always-on or unswitched outlets in the front panel and a USB charging port. Additionally, the power filtration technology improves sound performance and removes all kinds of unwanted noise. The RFI/EMI filter reduces the radio and electromagnetic frequency interference.

Further, the in-built surge protector regulates the power provided to the equipment. The LCD display indicates the real-time output data. The strong metal chassis and 1U mountable rack design reduces footprint and allows portability.

Power conditioners are quite common nowadays which has led to the fact that everyone knows about them. If you are still unaware then power conditioners are equipment which can supply uninterrupted power to AC and then to sensitive electrical appliances. So, the basic goal of the power conditioner is to protect electrical appliances from being damaged by fluctuating voltage. But the best power conditioners can also help to support your electrical appliances to bring out their best performance. In the following section, we have listed some important factors to consider while choosing any power conditioner.

Tower Power Conditioner: These power conditioners are longer in height than the width of the equipment. The power outlets are usually located at the back of these devices. They can ideally be placed behind the electrical appliance they are protecting. Or, they can be kept on any shelf or desk.

Rack Mount Power Conditioner: These power conditioners are quite different from the first type. They are specifically designed to be used for a general 19-inch open frame rack or rack enclosure. The rack height of the power conditioners informs about the number of rack spaces that they will require. Each rack unit, or 1Uis 44.45 mm or 1.75 inches high. The power outlets are mounted on the back of these conditioners.

Wall Mount Power Conditioners: This type of power conditioner comes with mounting ears so that they can be safely attached to a bench or wall, which saves floor space and prevents accidental interruptions or disconnections.

One of the basic criteria that you need to look at before narrowing your choices on the power conditioners is the power capacity that your electrical appliances require. For this, you just need to calculate the total wattage required by your electrical appliances. Usually, the power required by the appliances is mentioned in the documents of the manufacturer or the nameplate. However, if you are unable to find the power requirements, then the amps can be multiplied with the general AC voltage to derive the power.

It should be made sure that the power conditioner’s AC input voltage should match the electrical appliances’ voltage. So, the plug type will differ based on the country you are residing in. For instance, in the USA, the voltage is usually 120V while the minimum voltage in Europe and some other countries is 230V. Therefore, you should choose the plug type according to the required voltage in your country.

You need to decide the number of electrical appliances that you need to connect to the power conditioners. This will help you get a clear idea about the number of power outlets that you will need in the power conditioner. Also, you need to look at the kinds of power outlets to help you connect the electrical appliances perfectly to the power conditioners.

This is also an eminent feature to consider when looking for a power conditioner. Also, you must look at the appliances that you wish to connect to the power conditioners. The expensive and fragile appliances need more protection from the disrupting voltages than other products. For determining that the power conditioner is of high value, you can look for features like AVR or Automatic Voltage Regulation, higher joule rating and lower ‘let through’ rating.

Look for power conditioners which are small in size so that you can either hide it behind any electrical appliances that it is connected to or it can easily be placed on a shelf or a table.

The real-time LED display shows the boosted or trimmed incoming voltage. They can also detect faults in wirings such as improper grounding or loose wiring.

The adjustable breaker prevents excessive current flow to protect the electrical circuit. If the breaker falls or trips, you can detach some of the electrical appliances and reset the input breaker.

Ans: The device which can effortlessly protect fragile and sensitive electrical appliances from any kind of fluctuating voltage is known as a power conditioner. They provide electrical appliances with uninterrupted AC power.

Ans: The power conditioners are loaded with a technology known as the state of the art which allows them to protect fragile and expensive electrical appliances and bring out their optimum performance and make them perform at their technical best.

Ans: The answer to this question is quite simple as the power conditioners can protect sensitive, fragile and expensive electrical appliances from any kind of possible damage from the fluctuating AC supply. If you want to increase the life of your favourite electrical appliances, then you make sure to install a power conditioner.

Ans: The primary advantage of any power conditioner is that it protects fragile electric appliances from any kind of fluctuations in voltage. The voltage fluctuations can cause harm to your really expensive appliances. By stabilizing the voltage, you can improve the performance of the electrical appliances and bring out their best performance. Some of the high-end power conditioners also have noise filtration and video or audio clarity features.

Ans: The basic difference between the power conditioner and the surge protector is that the former protects the appliances from any kind of power fluctuations while the latter protects the appliances from any kind of power surge that happens in case of any kind of storm. Generally, the power conditioners have surge protection technologies but all surge protectors do not have power conditioning technologies.

With this guide at your disposal, it will be very simple for you to select the ideal power conditioner for you. Always go for the products that offer three-in-approach as they are the best in the business and not only protect the electrical appliances but also bring out their optimum performance. If you still have queries, you can write to us in the comments section below.

If you want our recommendations, then we have listed our top three picks. Our first recommendation from our list is Furman M-8×2 Power Conditioner. It is from the most trusted brand which protects the electrical appliances and improves sound quality. It is also ideal for all musical activities.

The second pick from our list of products is Pyle AC Power Conditioner. It features 2-stage EMI filter and microcontroller with enhanced LED display which makes it so highly rated. Also, it can be connected to 17 different appliances.

The final suggestion of a power conditioner from our list is Furman PL-PLUS C Power Conditioner. It features the exclusive SMP technology. The devices reduce noise contamination and provide optimal protection against surges and spikes.

The PC-200 is a professional grade, rack-mountable power conditioner and controller designed to provide 120 Volt AC power distribution, switching, surge protection, noise filtering, and energy monitoring for Crestron® control systems, AV systems, computers, and other equipment. Eight switched outlets are provided on the rear panel, plus a single unswitched convenience outlet is provided on the front. All nine outlets are protected, filtered, and monitored. The switched outlets are arranged in four banks of two, three of which are turn-on delay-adjustable when controlled from the front panel power switch. The same three outlet banks are also individually controllable via a control system to enable selective switching of devices, on/off power sequencing, load-shedding, and other custom power control functionality.[1]

Built-in RMS voltage and current monitoring enables logging and reporting of the line voltage, current, power, and energy usage at the input. An external temperature sensor is included to keep tabs on heat conditions within the equipment rack or room. Network connectivity allows for setup and operation using a web browser, with extensive custom control and monitoring capabilities enabled through integration with a Crestron control system, the MyCrestron.com residential monitoring service, or the Crestron Fusion® Cloud enterprise management service.[1,2]

A quality power conditioner is an essential component of any professional system to prevent sudden equipment failure due to lightning and electrical disturbances, to prolong the lifespan of that equipment, and to maximize overall system performance during everyday operation. The PC-200 includes the following power conditioning features:

Under/Over Voltage Cutoff —Shuts off power to the rear panel outlets if the line voltage strays beyond the normal operating range, which is adjustable on the PC-200

Wiring Fault Detection —Detects faulty wiring of the incoming AC power line and shuts off power to the rear panel outlets until the fault is corrected[3]

The switched outlets on the PC-200’s rear panel are arranged in four banks, with two outlets per bank. When operated by its front panel power switch, the first bank turns on immediately while the other three banks can be configured to turn on in any order according to the delay time set for each bank. Each bank is independently adjustable to provide up to 10 seconds of delay before turning on, ensuring that the connected equipment gets powered up in proper order with sufficient time for each piece to stabilize. This helps to prevent dangerous transients that can damage delicate components and potentially trip the main circuit breaker. It can also help to prevent audible pops and thumps through connected audio equipment at power-up. Delayed turn-on is initiated by turning on the front panel power switch, or by applying power to the main line input following a power outage or through an externally switched circuit.

When connected to a local area network, three of the four outlet banks on the PC-200’s rear panel can be turned on or off independently using a web browser or control system. The other bank is always on as long as the front panel switch is turned on. This energy-saving feature allows select components to be powered down when not needed. Through integration with a control system, custom functionality can be programmed to enable control from a touch screen, keypad, remote, or mobile device. Sequential power-up and power-down functionality can be enabled through programming of the control system. For systems employing a backup generator or UPS, load-shedding can be performed to shut down unnecessary components during a power outage.[1]

By sensing the incoming line voltage and the total device load, the PC-200 facilitates a host of solutions for monitoring, automating, and troubleshooting a system.

Voltage monitoring allows fluctuations in the power line to be tracked and logged, helping to identify and document problems with the power utility or building wiring.

Energy monitoring provides the real power consumption (watts), current draw (amps), and energy usage (watt-hours) for all of the connected devices combined.

By connecting and testing one component at a time, the PC-200 allows power-hungry equipment to be identified and replaced with more efficient equipment.

An alert notification can be sent if there’s a sudden or abnormal drop in current draw, potentially indicating a device has been shut off improperly or disconnected due to theft (effective only when outlets are switched on).

The PC-200 offers a complete equipment protection solution by monitoring the ambient temperature within the equipment cabinet or room to prevent overheating. The included temperature sensor connects to the rear of the PC-200 and features a choice of magnetic or adhesive mounting for easy placement within a typical equipment rack enclosure. The over-temperature cutoff threshold can be set to shut down power to the system if conditions exceed a safe operating temperature. Through a control system, the temperature measurement can be utilized to regulate the operation of cooling fans or air-conditioning equipment to keep equipment running cool.

No matter how well a system is designed and programmed, even the finest control system or computer has the potential to lock up and stop responding once in a while. The PC-200 can be configured to detect an unresponsive device by sending it a ping command at regular intervals. If the ping request is not returned after four tries, the outlet bank feeding the monitored device cycles off and on to reboot the device, quickly restoring normal operation without any human intervention.

Events such as power surges, over/under voltage conditions, over-temperature conditions, ping failures, outlet switching activity, and sudden changes in current draw (indicative of a device being improperly shut off or disconnected) can all be logged as they occur to document the time and cause of problems and to track system usage. All sensor readings are logged at a configurable interval as short as five seconds providing a minimum of one week’s worth of data. Logs can be retrieved periodically to record a detailed history of events and energy usage over time.

The PC-200 integrates neatly into any system or facility. Used alone, it can be set up and managed through a web browser. It can also be configured to send email notifications in case of certain specified events. Integration with the MyCrestron.com residential monitoring service provides a cloud based solution for homeowners to monitor and manage the PC-200 as part of a complete Crestron home automation system. Or, Crestron Fusion Cloud provides an enterprise solution for corporations and universities to manage rooms using the PC-200 throughout a building or campus. And of course, the PC-200 can be integrated with a Crestron control system via Ethernet or Cresnet® to enable control and monitoring through a touch screen, handheld remote, or mobile device.[1,2]

The PC-300 is a professional grade, rack-mountable power conditioner and controller designed to provide 120 Volt AC power distribution, switching, surge protection, noise filtering, and energy monitoring for Crestron® control systems, AV systems, computers, and other equipment. Eight individually-switched outlets are provided on the rear panel, plus a single unswitched convenience outlet is provided on the front. All nine outlets are protected, filtered, and monitored. The switched outlets are each t