can power conditioners cause lcd displays to function in stock

Whether you’re building a home theater or have had yours set up for years, longevity is of utmost importance to you, because you want your investment to last for as long as possible. So what can you do to keep your home theater in great working condition for years to come? You may have heard about how a power conditioner can be a great solution to increase the longevity of home entertainment equipment!

So do you need a power conditioner for a home theater? Yes, a power conditioner is a vital piece of equipment that filters out the “dirty” power and keeps your expensive equipment safer and functioning more efficiently. It helps to ensure that your equipment lasts for as long as possible.

In our post, 10 Ways to Protect Home Theater Equipment, we explained that power, by nature, is dirty. When your power runs throughout your equipment in your home theater, small dips and spikes in electricity can cause damage to your equipment. A power conditioner filters these out, and in turn, better protects your equipment. Additionally, a power conditioner typically also filters out AC line noise. Check out this YouTube demonstration by Panamax on how power conditioners work.

So if you have expensive equipment in your home theater, as many of us do, a power conditioner is a great investment for you! Whether you want a budget-friendly or high-end power conditioner, you’ll be able to find one that meets your needs. In addition, many power conditioners come with great additional protection features, like surge protection to help your home theater equipment’s longevity in every way possible. No matter what your budget is, you’ll find that a power conditioner is a great investment for your home theater equipment, helping it last for many more years.

If you’re still not convinced that you need a power conditioner for your home theater, here are some reasons why it’s a great investment for many home theaters or home entertainment systems.

When it comes to home theaters, most are built with a lot of expensive equipment, even if there are some components that are on the lower end. Whether it’s an expensive receiver, subwoofer(s), front speakers, or all of the above, you want to do everything you can to protect your equipment from damage.

Maybe you’ve only taken precautions against physical, visible damage to your home theater equipment, but what about the damage you can’t see? Internally, your equipment goes through a lot. Are you doing everything you can to keep everything running smoothly and efficiently? The best option for you to keep your equipment up-to-speed internally is through the use of a power conditioner.

If you have a home theater in your living room, the chances are that it gets a good amount of use. Whether you’re watching movies with your kids and family regularly or you’re a die-hard sports fan that loves to watch your games, then your home theater definitely gets used a fair amount. This will bring on a lot of internal wear and tear on the smaller components within the equipment. Normally, lots of wear and tear can shorten the lifetime of your equipment, so you’ll want to do everything you can to extend that lifetime. One surefire way to add years onto your equipment’s life, in the midst of lots of everyday use, is through the use of a power conditioner.

It’s not every day that you buy new home theater equipment. It takes lots of time, energy, research, and testing to decide what is right for you. And it’s likely that you took a couple of years saving up money to buy the individual components. The last thing you’d hope for is to have to replace your expensive receiver or subwoofer within a few years! You wouldn’t want to replace any of your components with less than what you have, and it may not be in your budget to purchase the same caliber equipment, if something were to happen.

The good news is that, with a small investment in a power conditioner, you’ll be able to trust that your equipment will be highly protected from internal damage, and you won’t have to worry about making room in your budget for an emergency replacement anytime soon. Additionally, many power conditioner and surge protector manufacturers will actually back their product with money, even though it’s a good practice to replace them every 2 years anyway as we explained in our tutorial! Depending on the product and manufacturer, if something were to happen to a piece of equipment, it’s possible that the company would cover the damages and replace the equipment.

Budget– When deciding which power conditioner is right for you, you’ll need to figure out your budget. You can find a great power conditioner for many home theaters for under $100 such as the Furman M-8X2. This unit is a great budget power conditioner with 8 outlets and built-in surge protection! Or if you want to splurge, you can find one for a couple or few hundred dollars for really high-end equipment such as the Panamax MR4300. This unit is specifically built for home theater systems. It includes both power conditioning, surge protection, and even comes with a lifetime connected equipment protection policy!

Of course, there are a few differences between the high-end and budget-friendly models, such as the number of outlets and the level and quality of the power filtration. One similar feature you’ll find across all models of power conditioners is surge protection, which is a great add-on to the protection of power conditioning.

Your needs– It’s important to also know what the power needs of your home theater are. How big is your home theater? What type of equipment are you using? You’ll need to know the power capabilities of all of your home theater equipment, so that you can match your power conditioner with your current system. The power conditioner you choose has to be able to handle the amount of power that you’re sending through it from your equipment. For example, you’ll need to know if it has to the right amount of high current plugs for equipment like your subwoofer and receiver.

Where to go – There are a lot of places you can turn to, when you’re ready to browse and buy a power conditioner for your home theater. Amazon is one destination that many home theater gurus turn to, because you can easily look at hundreds of reviews to see what the best products are and what the downfalls are of each. In addition, you can go to any tech destination, such as Best Buy and other tech stores in your local area. It might be helpful to talk to one of the professionals in-store and physically see the different options to choose from.

Not sure if you need to consult an expert for your power conditioner purchase or if you should just browse online and make a selection? If you’re unsure of any of the specs of your home theater equipment and how much power your home theater system uses, you’ll definitely want to seek the advice of a home theater or tech expert. Additionally, if you’re unsure of which brand of power conditioner is best for you or what capabilities you need in your power conditioner, it’s a great idea to speak to a tech professional.

One of the easiest ways to do this is by going to a tech store, because they specifically hire people that can help with this. In fact, you’ll probably learn more than you even thought possible about which choice is the best for your specific home theater.

Is a UPS a power conditioner? A UPS is an uninterrupted power supply. It provides backup power in the event of a power outage. Most UPSs will have built-in power conditioning and surge protection. However, this isn’t standard on all uninterrupted power supplies, so check the specs before you purchase.

What are some brands to keep an eye out for?When it comes to power conditioners, there are a few brands that stand out above the rest, like Panamax, Furman, APC, Pyle, Bryston, and PS Audio. Monster is a popular entry-level brand, but the quality is typically rated less than the aforementioned brands, which have power conditioner models for all budgets and needs.

Is there any reason that my home theater doesn’t need a power conditioner?Although a power conditioner is a great investment for most home theaters, it is not 100% necessary if you have an overall low-end home theater system. Power conditioners are most useful for high-end equipment in home theaters, so if you have any expensive equipment in your home theater, it is important to purchase a power conditioner. If not, then you won’t need to purchase a power conditioner for your home theater. Just know that it’s likely that your equipment will degrade a faster rate and is more suseptible to

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Troubleshooting CRTs versus LCDs begins with similar steps, but diverges due to the differing natures of the two display types. The first troubleshooting steps are similar for either display type: power down the system and display and then power them back up; make sure the power cable is connected and that the outlet has power; verify that the signal cable is connected firmly to both video adapter and display and that there are no bent pins; verify that the video adapter is configured properly for the display; try the problem display on a known-good system, or try a known-good display on the problem system; and so on. Once you"ve tried the "obvious" troubleshooting steps, if the problem persists, the next step you take depends on the type of display. The following sections cover basic troubleshooting for CRTs and LCDs.

CRTs seldom fail outright without obvious signs, such as a loud snap or a strong odor of burning electrical components. Most CRT problems are really problems with the power, video adapter, cable, or hardware/software settings. To eliminate the CRT as a possible cause, connect the suspect CRT to a known-good system, or connect a known-good display to the suspect system. It is worth noting, that older CRTs eventually wear out, and starts dimming. Common signs of a weak CRT are a dim picture, dysfunctional brightness and/or color controls, image smearing at high brightness, and in color CRTs, a tint towards a single color (Red Green Blue)

Even if the CRT is in warranty, the shipping costs may exceed the value of the CRT. For example, shipping a CRT both ways can easily cost $75 or more. If that CRT is a year-old 17" model, you"re probably better off spending $100 to $200 for a new 17" or 19" CRT than paying $75 in shipping to have the old one repaired. CRTs have many components, all of which age together. Fixing one is no guarantee that another won"t fail shortly. In fact, that happens more often than not in our experience.

Never disassemble a CRT. At best, you may destroy the CRT. At worst, it may destroy you. Like televisions, CRTs use extremely high voltages internally, and have large capacitors that store that energy for days or even weeks after the CRT is unplugged. Robert once literally burned a screwdriver in half when working inside a color television that had been unplugged for several days. Also, the large, fragile tube may implode, scattering glass fragments like a hand grenade. People who repair CRTs and televisions for a living treat them with great respect, and so should you. If you must repair a CRT, take it to someone who knows what they are doing. You have been warned.

Check the obvious things first. Verify that the CRT is plugged in (and that the receptacle has power), the video cable is connected to the video card, the computer and CRT are turned on, and the brightness and contrast settings are set to the middle of their range. If none of these steps solves the problem, your CRT, video card, or video cable may be bad. Check the suspect CRT on a known-good system or a known-good CRT on the problem system.

CRTs contain multiple filaments, which can be broken, or gas may have leaked into the vacuum inside the CRT. CRTs damaged this way are unrepairable without specialist equipment. With the display open. check if all three filaments are glowing bright orange. Excessive redness or purple arcing signifies gas has leaked in. There may also be an internal short inside the CRT, which is also unfixable without specialist equipment.

If you have ACPI or APM power management enabled, it may be causing the problem. Some systems simply refuse to wake up once power management puts them to sleep. We have seen such systems survive a hardware reset without restoring power to the CRT. To verify this problem, turn off power to the system and CRT and then turn them back on. If the CRT then displays an image, check the power management settings in your BIOS and operating system and disable them if necessary.

Catastrophic CRT failure is imminent. The noises are caused by high-voltage arcing, and the smell is caused by burning insulation. Unplug the CRT from the wall before it catches fire, literally.

There are two likely causes. First, you may be driving the CRT beyond its design limits. Some CRTs display a usable image at resolutions and/or refresh rates higher than they are designed to use, but under such abuse the expected life of the CRT is shortened dramatically, perhaps to minutes. To correct this problem, change video settings to values that are within the CRT"s design specifications. Second, the power receptacle may be supplying voltage lower than the CRT requires. To correct this problem, connect the CRT to a different circuit or to a UPS or power conditioner that supplies standard voltage regardless of input voltage.

This is usually a minor hardware problem. The most likely cause is that the signal cable is not connected tightly to the CRT and/or video card, causing some pins to make contact intermittently or not at all. Verify that no pins are loose, bent, or missing on the cable or the connectors on the CRT and video card, and then tighten the cable at both ends, If that doesn"t fix the problem, open the computer, remove the video card, and reseat it fully.

In elderly systems, another possible cause is that some hardware DVD decoder cards "steal" one color (usually magenta) and use it to map the DVD video signal onto the standard video signal. Remove the DVD decoder card. If your video adapter includes hardware DVD support, or if you are upgrading to such an adapter, you don"t need a DVD decoder card.

The most likely cause is that the CRT is receiving inadequate power. Connect it to a different circuit or to a backup power supply that provides correct voltage regardless of fluctuations in mains voltage.

The most likely cause is that the refresh rate is set too low. Change the refresh rate to at least 75 Hz. Flicker also results from interaction with fluorescent lights, which operate on 60 Hz AC and can heterodyne visually with the CRT. This can occur at 60 Hz (which is far too low a refresh rate anyway), but can also occur at 120 Hz. If you"re running at 120 Hz refresh and experience flicker, either use incandescent lighting or reset the refresh rate to something other than 120 Hz.

The video card settings are likely outside the range supported by the CRT, particularly if you have just installed the CRT or have just changed video settings. To verify this, restart the system in Safe Mode (press F8 during boot to display the Windows boot menu and choose Safe Mode). If the system displays a VGA image properly, change your display settings to something supported by the CRT.

Most modern CRTs can display signals at many different scan frequencies, but this doesn"t mean that the CRT will necessarily automatically display different signals full-screen and properly aligned. Use the CRT controls to adjust the size and alignment of the image.

Depending on the CRT, video card, and video settings, this may be normal behavior, adjustable using the CRT controls. If the distortion is beyond the ability of the controls to correct, the problem may be with the video card, the CRT, or the driver. First try changing video settings. If the problem persists at several settings, move that CRT to a different system (or use a different video card) to determine whether the problem is caused by the CRT or video card. Repair or replace the faulty component.

This is usually caused by RF interference from another electrical or electronic device, particularly one that contains a motor. Make sure such devices are at least three feet from the CRT. Note that such interference can sometimes penetrate typical residential and office walls, so if the CRT is close to a wall, check the other side. Such image problems can also be caused by interference carried by the power line or by voltage variations in the AC power supply. To eliminate interference, plug the CRT into a surge protector. Better still, plug it into a UPS or power conditioner that supplies clean power at a constant voltage.

This problem may also be caused by using a video cable that is too long or of poor quality or by using a poor-quality KVM switch (keyboard/video/mouse switch). Manual KVM switches are particularly problematic.

The CRT may need to be degaussed. A CRT that sits in one position for months or years can be affected even by the earth"s very weak magnetic field, causing distortion and other display problems. Exposing a CRT to a strong magnetic field, such as unshielded speakers, can cause more extreme image problems. Many modern CRTs degauss themselves automatically each time you cycle the power, but some have a manual degauss button that you must remember to use. If your CRT has a manual degauss button, use it every month or two. The degaussing circuitry in some CRTs has limited power. We have seen CRTs that were accidentally exposed to strong magnetic fields, resulting in a badly distorted image. Built-in degaussing did little or nothing. In that case, you can sometimes fix the problem by using a separate degaussing coil, available at RadioShack and similar stores for a few dollars. We have, however, seen CRTs that were so badly "magnet burned" that even a standalone degaussing coil could not completely eliminate the problem. The moral is to keep magnets away from your CRT, including those in speakers that are not video-shielded.

An incorrect yoke may have been attached to the CRT. Unless you have a lot of spare time on your hands, this is usually not worth fixing. Replace the display.

You may have a weak picture tube. Without specialist equipment, this is usually unfixable. You could try a CRT rejuvenator as a last resort, but this may fix or kill your CRT permanently.

If your LCD displays no image at all and you are certain that it is receiving power and video signal, first adjust the brightness and contrast settings to higher values. If that doesn"t work, turn off the system and LCD, disconnect the LCD signal cable from the computer, and turn on the LCD by itself. It should display some sort of initialization screen, if only perhaps a "No video signal" message. If nothing lights up and no message is displayed, contact technical support for your LCD manufacturer. If your LCD supports multiple inputs, you may need to press a button to cycle through the inputs and set it to the correct one.

Unlike CRTs, where increasing the refresh rate always reduces flicker, LCDs have an optimal refresh rate that may be lower than the highest refresh rate supported. For example, a 17" LCD operating in analog mode may support 60 Hz and 75 Hz refresh. Although it sounds counterintuitive to anyone whose experience has been with CRTs, reducing the refresh rate from 75 Hz to 60 Hz may improve image stability. Check the manual to determine the optimum refresh rate for your LCD, and set your video adapter to use that rate.

First, try setting the optimal refresh rate as described above. If that doesn"t solve the problem and you are using an analog interface, there are several possible causes, most of which are due to poor synchronization between the video adapter clock and the display clock, or to phase problems. If your LCD has an auto-adjust, auto-setup, or auto-synchronize option, try using that first. If not, try adjusting the phase and/or clock settings manually until you have a usable image. If you are using an extension or longer than standard video cable, try connecting the standard video cable that was supplied with the display. Long analog video cables exacerbate sync problems. Also, if you are using a KVM switch, particularly a manual model, try instead connecting the LCD directly to the video adapter. Many LCDs are difficult or impossible to synchronize if you use a KVM switch. If you are unable to achieve proper synchronization, try connecting the LCD to a different computer. If you are unable to achieve synchronization on the second computer, the LCD may be defective. Finally, note that some models of video adapter simply don"t function well with some models of LCD.

If the screen is displaying a full, stable image, but that image is of poor quality, first verify that the display is not connected through a KVM switch or using an extension cable. If so, connect the display directly to the video adapter using the standard cable. If that is already the case, adjust the brightness, contrast, and focus controls. If you are unable to get a proper image using these controls, the problem is most likely a clock or phase mismatch, which you can cure by taking the steps described in the preceding item.

The best way to adjust clock and phase is to use auto-adjust first. Check the utility and driver CD that came with the monitor. It may have a wizard or at least the appropriate background screens to use while adjusting phase and clock settings. If not, go to the Windows Start menu and select Shutdown. When the screen goes gray and the Windows Shutdown dialog appears, leave that dialog onscreen, but ignore it. Use the gray screen to adjust clock and phase manually. Any problems with clock and phase and any changes you make to the clock and phase settings are clearly evident on the gray screen.

Always adjust clock first. Clock is usually not a problem if you have used the auto-adjust feature of your monitor, but if you do have clock problems they will be evident as large vertical bars on your screen. Tweak the clock setting until those bars disappear. Then adjust phase. Phase problems are evident as thin black lines running horizontally across the screen. Adjust phase until the lines disappear or are minimized.

Not all analog video cards synchronize perfectly with flat panels. The gray Shutdown screen exaggerates the problem, so don"t worry if very tiny movements are visible after you"ve adjusted clock and phase as well as possible. After you"ve set the clock and phase controls for the best image possible on the gray screen, cancel Shutdown and the image should be optimized.

Your video card is supplying a video signal at a bandwidth that is above or below the ability of your LCD to display. Reset your video parameters to be within the range supported by the LCD. If necessary, temporarily connect a different display or start Windows in Safe Mode and choose standard VGA in order to change video settings.

This occurs when you run an LCD at other than its native resolution. For example, if you have a 19" LCD with native 1280x1024 resolution but have your display adapter set to 1024x768, your LCD attempts to display those 1024x768 pixels at full screen size, which physically corresponds to 1280x1024 pixels. The pixel extrapolation needed to fill the screen with the smaller image results in artifacts such as blocky or poorly rendered text, jaggy lines, and so on. Either set your video adapter to display the native resolution of the LCD, or set your LCD to display the lower-resolution image without stretching the display (a feature sometimes referred to as display expansion), so that pixels are displayed 1:1, which results in the lower resolution using less than the entire screen.

This is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models, caused by defective pixels. Manufacturers set a threshold number below which they consider a display acceptable. That number varies with the manufacturer, the model, and the size of the display, but is typically in the range of 5 to 10 pixels. (Better LCDs nowadays usually have zero dead pixels.) Nothing can be done to fix defective pixels. Manufacturers will not replace LCDs under warranty unless the number of defective pixels exceeds the threshold number.

Some people claim that leaving the unit powered off for a day or two will "erase" a persistent after-image. Others suggest leaving a neutral gray screen (like the one used for phase adjustment) up on the screen to "equalize" the display. I dunno. FWIW, I"ve seen this problem on older Samsung panels but never on the Sony or NEC/LaCie panels I use.

Again, this is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models. The after-image occurs when the display has had the same image in one place for a long time. The after-image may persist even after you turn the display off.

Transistor-based pixels in an LCD respond more slowly than the phosphors in a CRT. The least-expensive LCDs exhibit this problem even with slow image movement, as when you drag a window. Better LCDs handle moderately fast image movement without ghosting, but exhibit the problem on fast-motion video. The best LCDs handle even fast-motion video and 3D gaming very well. The only solution to this problem is to upgrade to an LCD with faster response time.

Use the brightness control to increase image brightness. If you have set brightness to maximum and the image is still too dim, contact the display manufacturer. The CCRTs used to backlight the screen have a finite lifetime and may begin to dim as they near the end of their life.

If one or more horizontal and/or vertical lines appear on the display, first power-reset the computer and display. If the lines persist, run the auto-setup function of your display. If that does not solve the problem, power the system and display down, remove the video cable, and verify that the video plugs and jacks on both computer and display ends do not have broken or bent pins. Even if all appears correct, try a different video cable. If the problem persists, contact the display manufacturer.

The AC-215A compact power conditioner features Furman’s revolutionary SMP technology. Furman’s Series Multi-Stage Protection (SMP) circuit features our exclusive Linear Filter Technology (LiFT) and Extreme Voltage Shutdown (EVS). Together, these technologies comprise what is, without question, the world’s most advanced and comprehensive transient voltage surge suppressor.

Furman’s SMP surge suppression virtually eliminates service calls. Traditional surge suppression circuits sacrifice themselves when exposed to multiple transient voltage spikes, requiring the dismantling of your system, and repair of your surge suppressor. Not so with SMP. With Furman’s SMP, damaging transient voltages are safely absorbed, clamped and dissipated – no sacrificed parts, no service calls, no down time.

Unique to Furman’s SMP is its unparalleled clamping voltage, even when tested beyond the grueling specifications of – USA/CIDA’s A-1-1 test. While other designs offer clamping voltages that are well above 300VAC peak (far beyond long accepted professional standards), Furman’s SMP clamps at 188VAC peak, 133 VAC RMS even when tested with multiple 6000VAC – 3000 Amp surges! This unprecedented level of protection is only available with Furman’s SMP technology.

Unfortunately, traditional AC filter/conditioners have been designed for unrealistic laboratory conditions. Prior technologies could actually harm audio and video performance more than they help, due to the resonant peaking of their antiquated, non-linear designs. Under certain conditions, these designs can actually add more than 10 dB of noise to the incoming AC line. Worse still, lost digital data, the need to reboot digital presets, or destroyed digital converters are frequently caused by excessive voltage spikes and AC noise contaminating the equipment ground. Furman’s SMP with LiFT takes another approach, ensuring optimal performance through linear filtering and no leakage to ground.

Furman’s trusted overvoltage circuitry protects against all too frequent accidental connections to 208 or 240VAC by shutting off the incoming power until the overvoltage condition is corrected.

At only 1.75”H x 5”W x 8.5”D, and weighing in at only 3 lbs., the AC-215A’s compact, low-profile design makes it ideal for mounting to the back of a flat-screen television, or anywhere that discretely located, remote power protection and purification are needed.

The HD Guru’s readers have asked for the real story on power line conditioners. Are they really needed with an HDTV? Do they provide a sharper picture as some salesmen claim? How well do they protect the TV in case of a lightening strike or other electrical spike? What about surge protectors and uninterruptible power supplies (UPS)? The HD Guru responds.

In the United States the alternating current (AC) sent from your electric company should be delivered to your home at a steady rate of 120 volts at 60 cycles per second. In some parts of the US, there are variations, resulting in voltages that are either too high or too low. Sometimes interruptions cut the power altogether. Delivery of too much power is called a voltage surge; too little, a voltage droop or sag. Electrical storms can deliver lightening strikes, which can produce catastrophic voltage surges capable of destroying the power supplies of all the electronics plugged into the system, whether they’re powered up or not. Air conditioner and refrigerator motors powering on and off can also cause momentary voltage fluctuations. Another potential power problem is electrical interference caused by industrial grade electrical equipment operating nearby as would be found in a factory. Your home’s wiring may also pick up electrical line interference or radio frequency interference (RFI) caused by, among other things, broadcast transmitters located in your vicinity.

Fluctuating voltages can cause lights to brighten and dim. TV, lights and other electrical devices may momentarily shut off due to total voltage dropouts. Radio frequency interference can create hum and/or video noise bars and static.

Power conditioners can’t give your digital HDTV a sharper picture or better color, regardless of display technology, whether plasma, LCD, DLP, SXRD, or DILA rear projection. Period. Resolution is, by definition fixed, and so cannot be increased. If a salesman tells you otherwise, ask why are there no power conditioners connected to the dozens of TVs on display. All HDTVs have internal power supplies designed to filter and transform the incoming AC to voltages necessary for the set’s operational needs. These built-in power supplies do a great job, and are designed to accept a fairly wide range of line voltages. Can a power conditioner clean up heavy interference in your power line? Yes, but most of the time they are simply not necessary and will be of no use because the vast majority of households are free of electrical interference.

While power conditioners cannot improve your picture, a surge protector can protect your set in the event of a power surge. What’s needed depends on the display and the amount of protection you can afford. For LCDs and plasmas the HD Guru suggests a surge protector at the very minimum. According to experts, the rating should be at least 360 joules. These are very inexpensive, with prices starting at under $20. For lamp driven devices such as microdisplay front and rear projectors, including LCOS (Sony SXRD and JVC DiLA), DLP and LCD, you should purchase an uninterruptible power supplies (UPS). The HD Guru also recommends using the UPS with digital video recorders (DVRs like TiVo). A UPS will prevent the lamp’s cooling fan motor (or hard drive in the DVR) from shutting off during a power failure. You need just enough battery power to cool off the projector to prevent premature lamp failure or a DVR’s power down. 10 minutes worth of battery back up is more than sufficient. Virtually all UPS units also have built-in surge protection.

UPSs’ are either on-line or off-line designs. The on-lines are best because they actively filter and convert AC wall power into DC (Direct Current) to charge the battery, while simultaneously converting the DC back to AC to run your HDTV or DVR. In addition to offering excellent line conditioning, on-line UPS systems provide surge protection. Because it’s “on-line” there is no voltage drop when the AC power fails. The switch to battery backup is seamless.

The Tripp-Lite SU750XL is a good on-line UPS. Rated at 750VA, it will run a 500-watt load for about 10 minutes, which is plenty of time to cool off the lamp in any projector or properly shut down a TiVo. While it retails for $449, a quick internet search found it for $288.93 + shipping.

Depending upon capacity off-line UPS prices start at around $40. Because the AC in/out circuitry is not coupled to the output there’s around a 1-millisecond switch between line current and battery power. Virtually all have built-in surge protection and many of the mid size and larger one also have line conditioners.

Bottom line? Instead of selecting a line conditioner with surge protection, which can cost up to $500 or more, get first-rate protection that includes surge and battery backup plus top quality line conditioning, for under $300 by purchasing an on-line UPS. For under $100 you can be protected from the most common surge and short-term power loss problems with a UPS with surge protection combo.

When used in the first case to divert power around a portion of the unit, the bypass may be acting to protect the unit itself from extraordinary conditions or provide power downstream if a portion of the unit malfunctions or is temporarily inoperable. For example, if UPS batteries are drained and cannot provide power to the load, many UPSs go into “bypass mode,” providing raw, unconditioned power to the load so it can remain online. (See electronic bypass.)

When used to isolate a unit (generally used for larger units), a bypass made of circuit breakers or disconnect devices electronically isolate incoming and outgoing “sides” of the voltage regulator/power conditioner from the system. The unit can then be safely isolated for maintenance while downstream devices receive unconditioned power to remain online.

Some voltage regulator/power conditioners are capable of taking incoming power at one voltage level and providing it at a lower voltage level at the output (for example, from 480 volts to 208 volts). This ability to “step down” the voltage can eliminate the need for a separate transformer to change the voltage to the proper level for the downstream devices. In some cases, a “step up” might also be useful.

The new Venus (SBP) Plus Series of uninterruptible power supply with Transformer-Based Filter (TBF™) offers high performance and comprehensive power protection. This advanced power protection solution offers battery backup plus the ability to regulate voltage fluctuations through an integrated Automatic Voltage Regulator.

A Transformer-Based Power Filter, or TBF™ for short, is a revolutionary, patented technology that is embedded in every Smart Power System power protection device. Simply put, TBF™ is the most effective technology for regulating power so that issues like power spikes, surges and noise do not affect the ability of your equipment to operate properly. TBF™ technology eliminates power issues that cause disruption, degradation and destruction to electronic components.

1) Solution: Turn the UPS off and unplug at least one piece of connected equipment. Unplug the power cord of the UPS then press the circuit breaker button.

1) Solution: Connect the serial/USB cable to the UPS unit and open serial port on the back of the computer. You must use the cable that came with the unit.

A UPS is programmed to test its circuit and battery(s). This function is performed when turning the UPS on, following an electrical outage and through periodic self-testing. Should it find a problematic condition the UPS will put out a series of beeps and tones alerting the user to the possible reasons below:

Does your home have sensitive home theatre electronic appliances? Do you want these electronic devices to be protected? The best way to protect these appliances is by installing a power conditioner at home. So, what does one mean by that? A power conditioner is basically a product which allows electrical appliances to be safe by filtering out all the fluctuating power. They enable the appliances to perform at the best speed and keep them long-lasting.

When you visit shops or online sites for power conditioners, you will see that several options can be confusing. Finding the correct one can be very difficult, so we have listed some factors that will help you choose the best product.

Type: There are three power conditioners- Tower, Rack Mount, and Wall Mount. Among them, the tower ones are compact, the rack mount ones can allow many appliances at once, and the wall mount ones have mounting ears and can be attached anywhere.

Power: You need to add the power of each electrical appliance you want to connect to the power conditioner. Now, you need to check the power of these conditioners and buy the one correct for you accordingly.

Voltage: You need to check the voltage of the power conditioner before buying one. You need to see that the voltage supply to your home and the one in the power conditioner match.

More details on the features to look for when buying power conditioners are mentioned in the “Buying Guide” later in the article. Now, in the next section, we have listed the best power conditioners with their best features, advantages and disadvantages. Read on to pick your best power conditioner.

M-8×2 power conditioner features a total of 9 power outlets, out of which 8 are in the rear panel, and one is in the front panel as the convenience power outlet. The EMI/RFI filters reduce ‘pop’ sound and improve sound quality.  Also, the search and spike protector guarantees that these appliances are safe and clean power is provided to the instruments. Additionally, it features a 15 amp rating along with the circuit breaker and front panel indicator, which lets you know that the electronic devices are protected. More than 23 dB, 200kHz to 10Mhz filtration rating makes the product suitable for all kinds of musical activities.

This Pyle power conditioner features a microcontroller which allows precise high-level timing. The inbuilt EMI filter has two stages for each power outlet on the rare panel. Further, the master automatic unit display allows the power conditioner to link series with 100 units or more. All nine channels are connected to an output break switch which monitors the incoming AC voltage in real-time. The LED display shows the AC voltage, temperature, power, bypass, master, ground and wiring status. Moreover, the time display is segregated into 7 different LED segments.

The exclusive SMP technology used by Furman allows the power conditioner to provide the best protection against spikes and surges. Secondly, noise contamination and inter-part interference are reduced with the installation of isolated output banks. There are a total of 9 outlets which enable you to connect the power conditioner to 9 different musical appliances. Then, the LED voltmeter shows the incoming voltage clearly and allows us to monitor it. The pullout LED lights make it easy to manage and control the product.

The power-up features 3 delayed outlet systems ranging from zones 1 to 3 digital power, analog power and high power filter outlets. While turning them off, the reverse order takes place, and high power turns off first. Further, it features multi-stage noise filtration for reducing frequency interference(RFI) and electromagnetic interference(EMI). The LED display is quite advanced as it shows the zone status, abnormal voltage, wiring fault, open breaker along with the incoming AC voltage. The rear panel features 8 switched outlets, and the front panel has 2 unswitched outlets, which allow a total of 15 amps rating without circuit breakage.

Power conditioning or sequencing helps the musical equipment to be provided with power in different stages. This also allows the equipment to have rest time before the next level is engaged. On the flip side, while powering down, the conditioner reverses the sequence order and helps in the soft landing of your electronic musical equipment. It also protects against power surges or spikes for fragile appliances or in case of circuit breaker failure. Further, they improve the sound quality by removing the unwanted “pop” sound. The RFI/EMI filter checks for all kinds of writing faults and indicates if the AC is incorrectly connected by lighting an LED light.

The switches are mixed of low power and high power with two unswitched outlets in the front panel. The power conditioner also features removable rack mount ears which allow it to be installed anywhere.

This power conditioner is enhanced with 8 filtered power outlets and 4 unfiltered power outlets allowing it to be connected to 12 electronic equipment at the same time. Moreover, the overload protection technology turns off the sockets once the power exceeds 15 amps, and the power is restored by the reset button. The phase detector technology detects the ground wire and phase wire of the AC source and turns a light on to indicate when the phase is correct. Now, the voltage protection technology is capable of saving the pieces of equipment from any voltage fluctuations and also ensures optimal spike and surge protection.

The power clean technology is featured in this power conditioner which enables better picture and sound quality. The voltage meter in the front panel helps to know if the voltage power in the socket is stable.

This power conditioner unit features eight filtered and switchable power outlets on the rear side. These rear power outlets are also surge protected which restricts excess power flow to the equipment. On the front panel of the power conditioner, this power conditioner has one switchable power outlet and one USB cable. Also, this unit features a high-end noise filtering technology which allows it to filter out around 90% of unwanted sound. Based on this feature, PG-X is ahead in the race as compared to its contemporaries as they can filter only 76% of the noise.

It safeguards your speakers and other expensive, sensitive and valuable equipment with 8 rear power outlets that are sequenced horizontally. With each power outlet, there is an individual indicator and switch on the front panel. The innovative power sequencing feature supplies power to your equipment in stages so that it can stabilize and is not charged with too much power in one go. There are also two always-on or unswitched outlets in the front panel and a USB charging port. Additionally, the power filtration technology improves sound performance and removes all kinds of unwanted noise. The RFI/EMI filter reduces the radio and electromagnetic frequency interference.

Further, the in-built surge protector regulates the power provided to the equipment. The LCD display indicates the real-time output data. The strong metal chassis and 1U mountable rack design reduces footprint and allows portability.

Power conditioners are quite common nowadays which has led to the fact that everyone knows about them. If you are still unaware then power conditioners are equipment which can supply uninterrupted power to AC and then to sensitive electrical appliances. So, the basic goal of the power conditioner is to protect electrical appliances from being damaged by fluctuating voltage. But the best power conditioners can also help to support your electrical appliances to bring out their best performance. In the following section, we have listed some important factors to consider while choosing any power conditioner.

Tower Power Conditioner: These power conditioners are longer in height than the width of the equipment. The power outlets are usually located at the back of these devices. They can ideally be placed behind the electrical appliance they are protecting. Or, they can be kept on any shelf or desk.

Rack Mount Power Conditioner: These power conditioners are quite different from the first type. They are specifically designed to be used for a general 19-inch open frame rack or rack enclosure. The rack height of the power conditioners informs about the number of rack spaces that they will require. Each rack unit, or 1Uis 44.45 mm or 1.75 inches high. The power outlets are mounted on the back of these conditioners.

Wall Mount Power Conditioners: This type of power conditioner comes with mounting ears so that they can be safely attached to a bench or wall, which saves floor space and prevents accidental interruptions or disconnections.

One of the basic criteria that you need to look at before narrowing your choices on the power conditioners is the power capacity that your electrical appliances require. For this, you just need to calculate the total wattage required by your electrical appliances. Usually, the power required by the appliances is mentioned in the documents of the manufacturer or the nameplate. However, if you are unable to find the power requirements, then the amps can be multiplied with the general AC voltage to derive the power.

It should be made sure that the power conditioner’s AC input voltage should match the electrical appliances’ voltage. So, the plug type will differ based on the country you are residing in. For instance, in the USA, the voltage is usually 120V while the minimum voltage in Europe and some other countries is 230V. Therefore, you should choose the plug type according to the required voltage in your country.

You need to decide the number of electrical appliances that you need to connect to the power conditioners. This will help you get a clear idea about the number of power outlets that you will need in the power conditioner. Also, you need to look at the kinds of power outlets to help you connect the electrical appliances perfectly to the power conditioners.

This is also an eminent feature to consider when looking for a power conditioner. Also, you must look at the appliances that you wish to connect to the power conditioners. The expensive and fragile appliances need more protection from the disrupting voltages than other products. For determining that the power conditioner is of high value, you can look for features like AVR or Automatic Voltage Regulation, higher joule rating and lower ‘let through’ rating.

Look for power conditioners which are small in size so that you can either hide it behind any electrical appliances that it is connected to or it can easily be placed on a shelf or a table.

The real-time LED display shows the boosted or trimmed incoming voltage. They can also detect faults in wirings such as improper grounding or loose wiring.

The adjustable breaker prevents excessive current flow to protect the electrical circuit. If the breaker falls or trips, you can detach some of the electrical appliances and reset the input breaker.

Ans: The device which can effortlessly protect fragile and sensitive electrical appliances from any kind of fluctuating voltage is known as a power conditioner. They provide electrical appliances with uninterrupted AC power.

Ans: The power conditioners are loaded with a technology known as the state of the art which allows them to protect fragile and expensive electrical appliances and bring out their optimum performance and make them perform at their technical best.

Ans: The answer to this question is quite simple as the power conditioners can protect sensitive, fragile and expensive electrical appliances from any kind of possible damage from the fluctuating AC supply. If you want to increase the life of your favourite electrical appliances, then you make sure to install a power conditioner.

Ans: The primary advantage of any power conditioner is that it protects fragile electric appliances from any kind of fluctuations in voltage. The voltage fluctuations can cause harm to your really expensive appliances. By stabilizing the voltage, you can improve the performance of the electrical appliances and bring out their best performance. Some of the high-end power conditioners also have noise filtration and video or audio clarity features.

Ans: The basic difference between the power conditioner and the surge protector is that the former protects the appliances from any kind of power fluctuations while the latter protects the appliances from any kind of power surge that happens in case of any kind of storm. Generally, the power conditioners have surge protection technologies but all surge protectors do not have power conditioning technologies.

With this guide at your disposal, it will be very simple for you to select the ideal power conditioner for you. Always go for the products that offer three-in-approach as they are the best in the business and not only protect the electrical appliances but also bring out their optimum performance. If you still have queries, you can write to us in the comments section below.

If you want our recommendations, then we have listed our top three picks. Our first recommendation from our list is Furman M-8×2 Power Conditioner. It is from the most trusted brand which protects the electrical appliances and improves sound quality. It is also ideal for all musical activities.

The second pick from our list of products is Pyle AC Power Conditioner. It features 2-stage EMI filter and microcontroller with enhanced LED display which makes it so highly rated. Also, it can be connected to 17 different appliances.

The final suggestion of a power conditioner from our list is Furman PL-PLUS C Power Conditioner. It features the exclusive SMP technology. The devices reduce noise contamination and provide optimal protection against surges and spikes.

Modern flat screen TV"s have a known problem with capacitors going bad. If your LCD or LED TV won"t turn on, or makes repeated clicking sounds, there is a very good chance that you can save hundreds of dollars doing this simple repair yourself.

I know, I know. You"re thinking, "Tinker inside my LCD HDTV. Are you crazy?" No, I"m not crazy. This is a repair almost anyone can do and this fix will work for any TV.

You sit down and get comfortable, ready to watch your favorite TV show or movie. You turn on your TV and...nothing! Unsure if you hit the power button, you try again...again, nothing! But you do notice a clicking sound emanating from your TV.

HDTV"s aren"t cheap. Most of us have to save, or at least be prepared to spend $800-$1000 on new one. Heck, I"m sure many of you don"t savor the idea of spending a few hundred on repairs.

I have good news. This repair is actually quite simple, and with only a few basic tools and about 20 bucks, you can have your TV working in less than an hour.

If you need a soldering iron, that no problem. They are cheap and easy to use. I highly recommend this 60 Watts Soldering Iron Kit. It"s less than 20 bucks. If your looking for the lowest price possible, this 60W soldering iron with stand is about $8 (shipped prime) and will work fine.

After unplugging everything on the TV, you will need to remove the stand. If your TV was wall mounted you will need to remove the TV from the wall, and remove the mounting bracket from the back of the TV.

The TV sits on top and inside the stand, so it wont just flop over when you remove the stand screws, but it"s always safer to have a friend hold the TV upright as you remove the screws from the stand. Then each of you grab a side and carefully lay it flat on a carpeted surface.

Above is a a picture of the back side of a typical TV. The left picture is my LG 42LN5300 and the right picture is my Samsung LN46A550, but all TVs are similar. Remove all of the screws along the outer edge of the back casing. There can be anywhere from 10 - 16 of these screws.

There will also be screws within any area where the are power or cord plugins. You can see these in the lower middle of the pictures. (highlighted with the red rectangle on my Samsung)

Then identify the "power board". Every TV is a little different, but the power board will have can shaped capacitors and is the board that the main power from the plug goes to first. On this Samsung TV I put a green rectangle around the power board that we will be working on..

Remove all of the wiring harnesses from the circuit board. A simple tug on the connector clip (not the wiring) should be sufficient to remove them. On this particular Samsung board there are 7 different harnesses.

Remove the screws holding the power board to the TV chassis. Most boards will have 6 screws holding them down, as does the one shown in the picture. But look it over there could be more or less.

This TV repair focuses on the small "can shaped" Aluminum ElectrolyticCapacitors.These capacitors come in many colors and sizes but are easy to find on any power board. Not only are these the most likely cause of your problem, but bad ones are simple to find and simple to replace. In most instances you will be able to visually identify the bad capacitors. You don"t need any special skills in electronics or testing.

When a Capacitor fails, the chemical reaction inside the capacitor can produce hydrogen gas, so capacitors have vents cut into the tops of their aluminum cans. These are intended to break and release the gas that has built up inside the capacitor. So, a capacitor which has failed can show bulging at the top..

Another sign of a failed capacitor is leaking fluid (electrolyte). This can be an orange or brownish discharge from either the top or bottom of the capacitor. Usually, with leaking the capacitor will also be bulging. But a capacitor can bulge but not leak.

Capacitors do not always show visible signs of failure. But, if you see either of the 2 signs above on your board, you can be confident that you"re close to fixing your TV. If you don"t see these signs of failure, but your TV had the tell-tail clicking sound, you still can be fairly certain the steps below will fix your TV.

On power board pictured above, I have indicated which capacitors you should be examining for signs of failure. These Capacitors are Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors, and are the most likely cause of your problem. The capacitors with the green arrows are the most likely candidates for being bad, but the blue arrow are other capacitors to examine.

Warning: Do not bother with the large capacitors (2 or 3 will be on every board). These are high voltage, rarely fail and for safety require a little more expertise to work on.

The pictures above are actual closeups of my TV"s board. Notice how the blue capacitors in the foreground are bulging. These are the capacitors I will replace. All other capacitors look OK. If you can find replacements for all 4 of these capacitors, and any others that show visual signs of going bad, I recommend replacing them all while your in here.

Capacitors have polarity. What this means is, like a battery, they have a positive (+) and a negative (-) side. Before removing any capacitor, note which side the white stripe of the capacitor is facing. You will need to put in the new capacitor in the same direction. You probably noted on my pictures that I actually made a note on the aluminum heat sink with a pen.

Now that you"ve identified the capacitors that look bad, turn the board over and carefully identify exactly which points on the board are the wire leads from the these capacitors.

Circle them with a "sharpie" type pen to keep track. Grab your friend and have them help you on this next step. Balancing the circuit board on its side while using a hot soldering iron and pliers can be a bit tricky.

With the circuit board on its edge, have your friend grab one of the capacitors with the pliers and apply a very gentle pulling pressure. Apply the tip of the soldering iron to one lead on the back side of the board and hold it there until you see the solder melt. Now switch to the other lead until it melts. Keep going back and forth on the leads. Each time the solder will melt faster. After going back and forth a couple times the capacitor will easily come out.

Ideally you should match the uF and the temperature rating exactly. But it is acceptable to use a capacitor rated higher uF if it is within 20% of the original.

Place your soldering iron and solder on lead until the heat melts the solder. Once solder melts onto the lead, apply the iron on the lead and solder a few times to melt the solder cleanly on the lead. If you have solder flux, the solder will make a clean connection.

Hi, I have a tv that stopped working in the 5 minutes I left the room. I"ve opened it, and from my tests I know these details: 1, the psu is fine, 2, the leds and their drivers are fine, but the logic board doesn"t signal the psu to turn on,(I had to signal it myself to test if it is ok) and it doesn"t signal the led drivers. I checked the regulators and they output correctly. What else can I check?0

So I took my tv apart and I think I found the problem can you please verify for me? Pictures attached. I think one of the big CAPACITOR is bad and leaking on the bottom of the board is brown.

While working on my recordings for my eLearning podcasts, I constantly tried many different ways to improve the quality of my recordings as well as give my equipment the best care.

One of the ways I tried to do this was testing out both power conditioners (also known as line conditioners) and surge protectors. Therefore, I thought it would be a good idea to pass on my learned knowledge to others through this article.

Below, I will explain what a power conditioner is, why you may need one, the main differences between power conditioners vs surge protectors, and help you decide which one to choose for you and your needs.

After many years of experience using these tools as well as conducting lots of research, my goal is to help others out by saving them countless hours of searching for information and providing the knowledge that I have learned.

A power conditioner, also commonly referred to as a line conditioner, is a neat device that was created to improve the overall quality of the power that is going to your electrical equipment.

When the power goes through your home’s electrical system, it needs to travel to your everyday appliances, such as a refrigerator or an air conditioner.

When this happens, you may experience disturbances in your appliances. For example, your lights may flicker or the picture may look distorted on your television.

Most people who experience these situations typically ignore them, which may cause your appliances to work harder than needed. If this happens, they may wear out a lot quicker than expected and need to be replaced more often.

This is useful because it provides the correct voltage level to sensitive electrical equipment, which increases your appliances’ ability to work efficiently and safely at the proper voltage.

A line conditioner will come in and clean up your power, helping it run more effectively. If you would like to ensure that your appliances are reaching the correct voltage, my advice is to purchase a line conditioner.

This device not only helps my podcasts by ensuring that the power reaching my recording devices are the proper voltage limit that it was designed to run at, but a line conditioner also offers excellent filtering.

However, I learned that this was not the case. I then purchased a great power conditioner, which began improving the sound quality of my analog and digital gear as well as extending its life. Now, I cannot imagine ever going without this device.

If you would like more details on the line conditioner and its functions, check out Sweetwater’s YouTube video. In this video, Mitch Gallagher explains what a line conditioner is as well as its many benefits.

A surge protector, sometimes called a surge suppressor, is a device that protects electrical devices from voltage spikes and increases in alternating current circuits.

When a voltage spike occurs, such as during lightning strikes that lead to power surges or even power outages, it can destroy your electronics that are plugged in, such as audio equipment, computers, televisions, modems, and so much more.

The majority of surge protectors send the electrical current from the wall outlet to all of your electronic devices that are plugged into its power strip. If the voltage starts to surge, this neat device will divert the extra power supply to the outlet’s grounding wire.

One of the most important components of surge protection is the Metal Oxide Varistor (MOV), which is responsible for diverting the extra voltage. The MOV can easily burn out with one voltage spike. Therefore, I recommend purchasing a surge protector that is equipped with a light that lets you know if the device is working properly.

Additionally, an important term that you sh