can power conditioners cause lcd displays to function made in china

Post your questions, opinions and reviews of the MPC1000. This forum is for discussion of the OFFICIAL Akai OS (2.1). If you wish to discuss the JJ OS, please use the dedicated JJ OS forum

Although, I found that if I connected the anode pin (LED_A) and logic power pin (VCC) together on the actual display unit, while also connecting the ground (LED_K) to ground, I could get the backlight to light, but it"s generally advised against for reasons I"m not sure of. This Is why I ultimately decided to pull a separate 5v for the LED from the power section of the PCB. The problem is the mpc is so much more complex and I don"t know if I have the technical know how to find a clean and easily accessible 5v source just to power the backlight"s LED. Again, looking at the mpcstuff.com"s product photo I can see that the A and K pins on the board have big globs of hot glue on them. Did they just connect the anode (Pin A) to the logic supply voltage (VCC)? Does it actually matter that much to have a clean independent voltage to power the LED?

On the one for my Kurzweil K2000, I think the guy jumped pin 3 (VCC +5V) to pin 21 as you did. But he used a resistor to make the jump, which probably is there for protection and for the same reason you were advised not to use the single source 5V to power both the VCC and backlight without a resistor.

I replaced my K2000 keyboard"s LCD display. All I did was remove the old LCD screen and place the new compatible LCD screen, which had 22 pins. The additional 2 pins are for backlight LEDs, which you"d just supply 5V DC from power supply.

As far as all the connection goes, it is that simple. No sane LCD manufactures would change PIN outs! Just connect pin to pin (don"t leave any pins unsoldered), and provide 5VDC on Pin 21 & 22.

I"ve tried everything suggested with my lcd (the same one mentioned at the beginning of the thread) but still nothing. I can get power to light up the back light but all I"m getting on the lcd is a few horizontal lines

I bought ERM24064DNS-1 and then I followed Slump pinout scheme. It toke some time to figure out the pinout on replacement, I"m using single patch cables, the one used with breadbord for temporary circuits. mine pin legs was presoldered facing the back of replacement"s display. This give me some trouble to find pin 1. So, If you look to the original display, side by side with mainboard, the pin 1 on display is up, and on the mainboard is down, so the placement is reverse and not really 1to1 to the sight in my case.

Anyway done the pin 9(from manboard) to pin 20(on replacement display) thing. The pin9( on replacement display) can be leaved not connected. The cable that were on pin20 (on replacement display) can be leaved not connected, but I suggest to connect to pin 9, to not leave things messed.

If you done this well, on poweron you see blink screen and orizzontal lines for a sec, and the default lights on unit power up. Else the lights on unit don"t power up, so check pinout scheme.

I suggest to check the brightness on poweron, the replacement don"t save brightness setting. So everytime, in my case, I need to set brightness with STOP+WHEEL to show characters.

I connected pin 21 to pin 2,and 22 to pin 4, on the cable from the front panel, it came straight from the ADDA board. The specs tells it was a 12V. the backlight worked well for an hour, then I had the bad idea to load a project from SD. after full load the project, backlight shut off and ADDA fried.

Hopefully I can put any uncertainty to rest! I successfully installed one of the BuyDisplay LCDs in my MPC1k. As others have pointed out, you will need to swap pins 9 and 20 in the ribbon cable. I emailed BuyDisplay regarding Pins 21 & 22, and they told me to just solder Pin 21 directly to Vcc (Pin 3, 5V on the LCD) and Pin 22 to Ground (Pin 2 on the LCD). Here is a photo of what I"m talking about:

PS I do not recommend ordering the LCD with the header pins attached! Though no fault of BuyDisplay"s, the pins were soldered on the "wrong" side of the PCB, and you can"t use a ribbon cable that mates with header pins anyway as they are too tall to put the front panel back on.

Do you guys think that the same can be performed on a MPC 60 MKII, since both machines use 240x64 displays? I just wrote a long ass post about it because I"m trying to pull off the same upgrade on my 60, and I"m waiting on parts to get here. The only difference between the old/new is that the 60 uses a 10 pin cable vs the 20 pinouts on the modern Chinese replacements, so I don"t know if the signal could be converted with a board or just a plain adapter. Can"t source the datasheets for the 60 though, so I"m basically on a plug-n-play trial & error experiment at the moment.

There is a possible way to modify the 240x64 LCD"s to work on the 60 however it requires a decent amount of modification to it that is out of the scope for most to do.

In my diagram, I have a connection between NC pin 20 to NC pin 9. Well, NC means no connection is necessary. So you can save yourself a wire by not connecting those.

I think that PWRGD means...The Power Good signal (power-good) is a signal provided by a computer power supply to indicate to the motherboard that all of the voltages are within specification and that the system may proceed to boot and operate.

I read somewhere about people connecting PWRGD to Vout with a 10K resistor in between... But we already have VEEOUT pin 9 going to VEE pin 20. Another theory of mine is that it tells the LCD to not power up until the voltages are regulated or within parameters in the MPC 1000. This might protect the LCD from an electrical spike when you press the power button to turn it on or off.

The usual use for PWRGOOD is to hold other devices in RESET, though you could use it (indirectly) to drive a P-MOSFET series switch. The problem is you then have to implement soft start or it can glitch on the inrush current of any downstream decoupling and turn the MOSFET off again! https://www.microchip.com/forums/m614064.aspx

There are many, many uses for a PG (power good) signal. One of the most common is to control power-sequencing of circuits with many different rails. For instance, you may have a Supply B that is not supposed to turn on until Supply A is on, and stable. By feeding the PG signal from Supply A to Supply B"s enable input (either directly, or through some simple logic gates or a CPLD), they will sequence themselves in the proper order.

Another common usage is forresetsupervisor ICs. If such a device has an active-low manual-reset input, OR"ing together all the PGs from supplies (assuming each is open-drain), if any of them fail / go out of regulation, the reset supervisor will toggle a reset of the system.

So it"s really up to you, but there"s two common uses. You should check the datasheet to see when PG is asserted/de-asserted; for some regulators, if they detect you"re out of regulation by 7.5% - 10%, the signal will assert. https://electronics.stackexchange.com/q ... l-properly

If your LCD does not power up, or flickers, then try connecting them. I do not think it will blow anything up. As a further precaution, plug your MPC 1000 into a power conditioner. You know, like a Furman Power Conditioner or a "rack rider." Perhaps a high quality surge protector would be sufficient. This may help prevent any spikes in electrical current during power up and power down while you are testing.

The most important thing is not running a power cable to ground. And using a plug with ground, and making sure your power outlet has ground. And don"t confuse which pin is pin 1. Match up pins carefully.

Apparently you don"t need to bridge pin 1 and 2. I can not seem to find Vanwerks original picture with his comment on Imgur atm. But he wrote this as a caption:

"Note: it is not necessary to form a solder bridge between pin 1 and 2. I took the picture while I was experimenting. I no longer have the pins connected and it works fine".

Well I will get my BuyDisplay LCD in a couple of weeks. I"ll post the correct details if I get it working, so that we can put all uncertainties to rest.

Troubleshooting CRTs versus LCDs begins with similar steps, but diverges due to the differing natures of the two display types. The first troubleshooting steps are similar for either display type: power down the system and display and then power them back up; make sure the power cable is connected and that the outlet has power; verify that the signal cable is connected firmly to both video adapter and display and that there are no bent pins; verify that the video adapter is configured properly for the display; try the problem display on a known-good system, or try a known-good display on the problem system; and so on. Once you"ve tried the "obvious" troubleshooting steps, if the problem persists, the next step you take depends on the type of display. The following sections cover basic troubleshooting for CRTs and LCDs.

CRTs seldom fail outright without obvious signs, such as a loud snap or a strong odor of burning electrical components. Most CRT problems are really problems with the power, video adapter, cable, or hardware/software settings. To eliminate the CRT as a possible cause, connect the suspect CRT to a known-good system, or connect a known-good display to the suspect system. It is worth noting, that older CRTs eventually wear out, and starts dimming. Common signs of a weak CRT are a dim picture, dysfunctional brightness and/or color controls, image smearing at high brightness, and in color CRTs, a tint towards a single color (Red Green Blue)

Even if the CRT is in warranty, the shipping costs may exceed the value of the CRT. For example, shipping a CRT both ways can easily cost $75 or more. If that CRT is a year-old 17" model, you"re probably better off spending $100 to $200 for a new 17" or 19" CRT than paying $75 in shipping to have the old one repaired. CRTs have many components, all of which age together. Fixing one is no guarantee that another won"t fail shortly. In fact, that happens more often than not in our experience.

Never disassemble a CRT. At best, you may destroy the CRT. At worst, it may destroy you. Like televisions, CRTs use extremely high voltages internally, and have large capacitors that store that energy for days or even weeks after the CRT is unplugged. Robert once literally burned a screwdriver in half when working inside a color television that had been unplugged for several days. Also, the large, fragile tube may implode, scattering glass fragments like a hand grenade. People who repair CRTs and televisions for a living treat them with great respect, and so should you. If you must repair a CRT, take it to someone who knows what they are doing. You have been warned.

Check the obvious things first. Verify that the CRT is plugged in (and that the receptacle has power), the video cable is connected to the video card, the computer and CRT are turned on, and the brightness and contrast settings are set to the middle of their range. If none of these steps solves the problem, your CRT, video card, or video cable may be bad. Check the suspect CRT on a known-good system or a known-good CRT on the problem system.

CRTs contain multiple filaments, which can be broken, or gas may have leaked into the vacuum inside the CRT. CRTs damaged this way are unrepairable without specialist equipment. With the display open. check if all three filaments are glowing bright orange. Excessive redness or purple arcing signifies gas has leaked in. There may also be an internal short inside the CRT, which is also unfixable without specialist equipment.

If you have ACPI or APM power management enabled, it may be causing the problem. Some systems simply refuse to wake up once power management puts them to sleep. We have seen such systems survive a hardware reset without restoring power to the CRT. To verify this problem, turn off power to the system and CRT and then turn them back on. If the CRT then displays an image, check the power management settings in your BIOS and operating system and disable them if necessary.

Catastrophic CRT failure is imminent. The noises are caused by high-voltage arcing, and the smell is caused by burning insulation. Unplug the CRT from the wall before it catches fire, literally.

There are two likely causes. First, you may be driving the CRT beyond its design limits. Some CRTs display a usable image at resolutions and/or refresh rates higher than they are designed to use, but under such abuse the expected life of the CRT is shortened dramatically, perhaps to minutes. To correct this problem, change video settings to values that are within the CRT"s design specifications. Second, the power receptacle may be supplying voltage lower than the CRT requires. To correct this problem, connect the CRT to a different circuit or to a UPS or power conditioner that supplies standard voltage regardless of input voltage.

This is usually a minor hardware problem. The most likely cause is that the signal cable is not connected tightly to the CRT and/or video card, causing some pins to make contact intermittently or not at all. Verify that no pins are loose, bent, or missing on the cable or the connectors on the CRT and video card, and then tighten the cable at both ends, If that doesn"t fix the problem, open the computer, remove the video card, and reseat it fully.

In elderly systems, another possible cause is that some hardware DVD decoder cards "steal" one color (usually magenta) and use it to map the DVD video signal onto the standard video signal. Remove the DVD decoder card. If your video adapter includes hardware DVD support, or if you are upgrading to such an adapter, you don"t need a DVD decoder card.

The most likely cause is that the CRT is receiving inadequate power. Connect it to a different circuit or to a backup power supply that provides correct voltage regardless of fluctuations in mains voltage.

The most likely cause is that the refresh rate is set too low. Change the refresh rate to at least 75 Hz. Flicker also results from interaction with fluorescent lights, which operate on 60 Hz AC and can heterodyne visually with the CRT. This can occur at 60 Hz (which is far too low a refresh rate anyway), but can also occur at 120 Hz. If you"re running at 120 Hz refresh and experience flicker, either use incandescent lighting or reset the refresh rate to something other than 120 Hz.

The video card settings are likely outside the range supported by the CRT, particularly if you have just installed the CRT or have just changed video settings. To verify this, restart the system in Safe Mode (press F8 during boot to display the Windows boot menu and choose Safe Mode). If the system displays a VGA image properly, change your display settings to something supported by the CRT.

Most modern CRTs can display signals at many different scan frequencies, but this doesn"t mean that the CRT will necessarily automatically display different signals full-screen and properly aligned. Use the CRT controls to adjust the size and alignment of the image.

Depending on the CRT, video card, and video settings, this may be normal behavior, adjustable using the CRT controls. If the distortion is beyond the ability of the controls to correct, the problem may be with the video card, the CRT, or the driver. First try changing video settings. If the problem persists at several settings, move that CRT to a different system (or use a different video card) to determine whether the problem is caused by the CRT or video card. Repair or replace the faulty component.

This is usually caused by RF interference from another electrical or electronic device, particularly one that contains a motor. Make sure such devices are at least three feet from the CRT. Note that such interference can sometimes penetrate typical residential and office walls, so if the CRT is close to a wall, check the other side. Such image problems can also be caused by interference carried by the power line or by voltage variations in the AC power supply. To eliminate interference, plug the CRT into a surge protector. Better still, plug it into a UPS or power conditioner that supplies clean power at a constant voltage.

This problem may also be caused by using a video cable that is too long or of poor quality or by using a poor-quality KVM switch (keyboard/video/mouse switch). Manual KVM switches are particularly problematic.

The CRT may need to be degaussed. A CRT that sits in one position for months or years can be affected even by the earth"s very weak magnetic field, causing distortion and other display problems. Exposing a CRT to a strong magnetic field, such as unshielded speakers, can cause more extreme image problems. Many modern CRTs degauss themselves automatically each time you cycle the power, but some have a manual degauss button that you must remember to use. If your CRT has a manual degauss button, use it every month or two. The degaussing circuitry in some CRTs has limited power. We have seen CRTs that were accidentally exposed to strong magnetic fields, resulting in a badly distorted image. Built-in degaussing did little or nothing. In that case, you can sometimes fix the problem by using a separate degaussing coil, available at RadioShack and similar stores for a few dollars. We have, however, seen CRTs that were so badly "magnet burned" that even a standalone degaussing coil could not completely eliminate the problem. The moral is to keep magnets away from your CRT, including those in speakers that are not video-shielded.

An incorrect yoke may have been attached to the CRT. Unless you have a lot of spare time on your hands, this is usually not worth fixing. Replace the display.

You may have a weak picture tube. Without specialist equipment, this is usually unfixable. You could try a CRT rejuvenator as a last resort, but this may fix or kill your CRT permanently.

If your LCD displays no image at all and you are certain that it is receiving power and video signal, first adjust the brightness and contrast settings to higher values. If that doesn"t work, turn off the system and LCD, disconnect the LCD signal cable from the computer, and turn on the LCD by itself. It should display some sort of initialization screen, if only perhaps a "No video signal" message. If nothing lights up and no message is displayed, contact technical support for your LCD manufacturer. If your LCD supports multiple inputs, you may need to press a button to cycle through the inputs and set it to the correct one.

Unlike CRTs, where increasing the refresh rate always reduces flicker, LCDs have an optimal refresh rate that may be lower than the highest refresh rate supported. For example, a 17" LCD operating in analog mode may support 60 Hz and 75 Hz refresh. Although it sounds counterintuitive to anyone whose experience has been with CRTs, reducing the refresh rate from 75 Hz to 60 Hz may improve image stability. Check the manual to determine the optimum refresh rate for your LCD, and set your video adapter to use that rate.

First, try setting the optimal refresh rate as described above. If that doesn"t solve the problem and you are using an analog interface, there are several possible causes, most of which are due to poor synchronization between the video adapter clock and the display clock, or to phase problems. If your LCD has an auto-adjust, auto-setup, or auto-synchronize option, try using that first. If not, try adjusting the phase and/or clock settings manually until you have a usable image. If you are using an extension or longer than standard video cable, try connecting the standard video cable that was supplied with the display. Long analog video cables exacerbate sync problems. Also, if you are using a KVM switch, particularly a manual model, try instead connecting the LCD directly to the video adapter. Many LCDs are difficult or impossible to synchronize if you use a KVM switch. If you are unable to achieve proper synchronization, try connecting the LCD to a different computer. If you are unable to achieve synchronization on the second computer, the LCD may be defective. Finally, note that some models of video adapter simply don"t function well with some models of LCD.

If the screen is displaying a full, stable image, but that image is of poor quality, first verify that the display is not connected through a KVM switch or using an extension cable. If so, connect the display directly to the video adapter using the standard cable. If that is already the case, adjust the brightness, contrast, and focus controls. If you are unable to get a proper image using these controls, the problem is most likely a clock or phase mismatch, which you can cure by taking the steps described in the preceding item.

The best way to adjust clock and phase is to use auto-adjust first. Check the utility and driver CD that came with the monitor. It may have a wizard or at least the appropriate background screens to use while adjusting phase and clock settings. If not, go to the Windows Start menu and select Shutdown. When the screen goes gray and the Windows Shutdown dialog appears, leave that dialog onscreen, but ignore it. Use the gray screen to adjust clock and phase manually. Any problems with clock and phase and any changes you make to the clock and phase settings are clearly evident on the gray screen.

Always adjust clock first. Clock is usually not a problem if you have used the auto-adjust feature of your monitor, but if you do have clock problems they will be evident as large vertical bars on your screen. Tweak the clock setting until those bars disappear. Then adjust phase. Phase problems are evident as thin black lines running horizontally across the screen. Adjust phase until the lines disappear or are minimized.

Not all analog video cards synchronize perfectly with flat panels. The gray Shutdown screen exaggerates the problem, so don"t worry if very tiny movements are visible after you"ve adjusted clock and phase as well as possible. After you"ve set the clock and phase controls for the best image possible on the gray screen, cancel Shutdown and the image should be optimized.

Your video card is supplying a video signal at a bandwidth that is above or below the ability of your LCD to display. Reset your video parameters to be within the range supported by the LCD. If necessary, temporarily connect a different display or start Windows in Safe Mode and choose standard VGA in order to change video settings.

This occurs when you run an LCD at other than its native resolution. For example, if you have a 19" LCD with native 1280x1024 resolution but have your display adapter set to 1024x768, your LCD attempts to display those 1024x768 pixels at full screen size, which physically corresponds to 1280x1024 pixels. The pixel extrapolation needed to fill the screen with the smaller image results in artifacts such as blocky or poorly rendered text, jaggy lines, and so on. Either set your video adapter to display the native resolution of the LCD, or set your LCD to display the lower-resolution image without stretching the display (a feature sometimes referred to as display expansion), so that pixels are displayed 1:1, which results in the lower resolution using less than the entire screen.

This is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models, caused by defective pixels. Manufacturers set a threshold number below which they consider a display acceptable. That number varies with the manufacturer, the model, and the size of the display, but is typically in the range of 5 to 10 pixels. (Better LCDs nowadays usually have zero dead pixels.) Nothing can be done to fix defective pixels. Manufacturers will not replace LCDs under warranty unless the number of defective pixels exceeds the threshold number.

Some people claim that leaving the unit powered off for a day or two will "erase" a persistent after-image. Others suggest leaving a neutral gray screen (like the one used for phase adjustment) up on the screen to "equalize" the display. I dunno. FWIW, I"ve seen this problem on older Samsung panels but never on the Sony or NEC/LaCie panels I use.

Again, this is a characteristic of LCDs, particularly older and inexpensive models. The after-image occurs when the display has had the same image in one place for a long time. The after-image may persist even after you turn the display off.

Transistor-based pixels in an LCD respond more slowly than the phosphors in a CRT. The least-expensive LCDs exhibit this problem even with slow image movement, as when you drag a window. Better LCDs handle moderately fast image movement without ghosting, but exhibit the problem on fast-motion video. The best LCDs handle even fast-motion video and 3D gaming very well. The only solution to this problem is to upgrade to an LCD with faster response time.

Use the brightness control to increase image brightness. If you have set brightness to maximum and the image is still too dim, contact the display manufacturer. The CCRTs used to backlight the screen have a finite lifetime and may begin to dim as they near the end of their life.

If one or more horizontal and/or vertical lines appear on the display, first power-reset the computer and display. If the lines persist, run the auto-setup function of your display. If that does not solve the problem, power the system and display down, remove the video cable, and verify that the video plugs and jacks on both computer and display ends do not have broken or bent pins. Even if all appears correct, try a different video cable. If the problem persists, contact the display manufacturer.

I heard it all, but ignored it. I"m in a brown/black out prone area so I"ve been over cautious using an APC 1500VA powering a Monster HTS 5100 and distributing to my system from there.

In part I feel it"s because I don"t understand power enough; I know the APC produces a stepped sine wave. I know that"s not good for my use, but does it produce that only when acting as a backup? Short of a regenerator would anything eliminate the square sine?

In the United States, National Electric Code article 210-19 FPN No. 4. suggests a 5% maximum combined voltage drop on the feeder and branch circuits to the furthest outlet "will provide reasonable efficiency of operation." The Canadian electrical code also requires no more than a 5% drop between the meter and outlet. Applying the 5% tolerance gives a nominal 120V range of 114V to 126V.

Yes, a power conditioner will stabilize the voltage from a generator. However, it will not convert the modified sine wave produced by some generators to pure sine wave, making those generators unsuitable for sensitive electronics.

Yes, but not with the printer itself. Printers and copiers use a hot roller called a fuser unit to bind ink toner to the paper as it passes through the printer. Periodically, the printer needs to reheat the fuser unit to the required temperature, and this requires a lot of electricity. To prevent a power sag (under-voltage) from impacting computers and other sensitive equipment on the same circuit as the printer, use a power conditioner with Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR).

Connecting a printer to a line conditioner may prevent the printer from getting the voltage it needs. A better approach would be to have a qualified electrician check the capacity of the existing line and add a separate circuit for the printer if necessary.

A power or voltage spike is a sudden increase in voltage, ranging from a few hundred volts to tens of thousands and lasting between 1 and 30 microseconds. A power surge is like a spike but lasts longer. Voltage fluctuations are normal and do not typically harm equipment connected to an outlet. Over- or under-voltages occur when the voltage reaching powered devices falls out of the normal service range.

As a power conditioner corrects high or low input voltage, it will make a gentle clicking sound. The frequency of the clicking will depend on the quality of the utility power in your area. The clicking is normal, and no action is required on your part.

A power conditioner can potentially improve sound quality by providing a cleaner and more stable power supply to audio equipment. Power fluctuations and electrical noise can interfere with the performance of audio equipment, leading to degradation in sound quality. By conditioning the power, a power conditioner can reduce the amount of electrical noise and provide a stable voltage, which can result in improved sound quality.

However, it is important to note that the effect of a power conditioner on sound quality can vary depending on the equipment and the specific electrical problems being addressed. In some cases, the improvement in sound quality may be minimal or not noticeable, while in other cases it can be significant.

A power conditioner is an electrical device that improves the quality of the power supplied to an electrical load by regulating voltage, reducing noise, and filtering out electrical disturbances. The goal of a power conditioner is to protect sensitive electronic equipment from damage caused by power fluctuations and electrical noise.

A surge protector, on the other hand, is specifically designed to protect electronic equipment from damage caused by power surges and spikes. It accomplishes this by diverting excess voltage away from connected equipment.

Some power conditioners include surge protection as part of their functionality, effectively combining the two functions into a single device. In these cases, the power conditioner can improve the quality of the power supply while also providing protection against power surges and spikes.

If improved sound quality is your primary goal, an isolation transformer is the best choice. Microphones, instruments and amplifiers can pick up unwanted hums or buzzes if they are plugged into the same circuit as items such as fluorescent lights, air conditioners and dimmer switches. If your band is playing in a bar, even the bartender"s blender is a potential source of interference!

An isolation transformer uses two coils of copper wire, wound so that the primary coil connected to incoming AC power induces a current in the secondary coil powering connected devices. Since there is no direct connection between the coils, musical instruments and recording equipment attached to the secondary coil are isolated from audio frequency noise on the power line.

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We tailor our advice to your needs, including your level of knowledge and experience. If you"re already an expert, we won"t waste your time. We"ll deliver the essential facts so you can move forward with your project. If you"re new to 3-phase, we"ll give you all the help you need.

We tailor our advice to your needs, including your level of knowledge and experience. If you"re already an expert, we won"t waste your time. We"ll deliver the essential facts so you can move forward with your project. If you"re new to healthcare infrastructure planning, we"ll give you all the help you need.

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Our factory-trained technicians provide a range of services, including commissioning, maintenance and repairs, to help ensure your Eaton Tripp Lite products maintain peak performance over their entire operational life.

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Maintains usable 120V nominal output to sensitive electronics during severe brownouts and overvoltages. Prevents surges and spikes from damaging circuitry. Filters out potentially disruptive line noise.

The LC1200 1200W 120V Line Conditioner - Automatic Voltage Regulator adjusts under- and overvoltages to provide safe, computer-grade AC power that meets ANSI C84.1 specifications. The automatic voltage regulation (AVR) offers three levels of voltage stabilization that corrects undervoltages as low as 89V and overvoltages as high as 147V back to regulated 120V nominal power. Providing optimum voltage conditions not only extends the life of your equipment, but also keeps your equipment working through brownouts and prolonged overvoltage conditions.

Just connect the space-saving NEMA 5-15P right-angle plug with 7-ft. (2.13 m) cord to an AC power source, and plug up to four devices into the NEMA 5-15R outlets. You can monitor AC power, incoming voltage level and AC line status using the seven diagnostic LEDs on the front panel. The compact LC1200 fits comfortably into your computer or home theater setup.

Extended Warranty and Technical Support for Select Tripp Lite Products – DC Power Supplies; Keyspan Products; KVM Switches; PDUs; Power Inverters; Power Management; UPS Systems

Extended Warranty and Technical Support for Select Tripp Lite Products – DC Power Supplies; Keyspan Products; KVM Switches; PDUs; Inverters; Power Management; UPS Systems

The PC-300 is a professional grade, rack-mountable power conditioner and controller designed to provide 120 Volt AC power distribution, switching, surge protection, noise filtering, and energy monitoring for Crestron® control systems, AV systems, computers, and other equipment. Eight individually-switched outlets are provided on the rear panel, plus a single unswitched convenience outlet is provided on the front. All nine outlets are protected, filtered, and monitored. The switched outlets are each turn-on delay-adjustable when controlled from the front panel power switch. The switched outlets are also individually controllable via a control system to enable independent switching of devices, on/off power sequencing, load-shedding, and other custom power control functionality.[1]

Built-in RMS voltage and current monitoring enables logging and reporting of line voltage fluctuations at the input, as well as current, power, and energy usage at each outlet. An external temperature sensor is included to keep tabs on heat conditions within the equipment rack or room. Network connectivity allows for setup and operation using a web browser, with extensive custom control and monitoring capabilities enabled through integration with a Crestron control system, the MyCrestron.com residential monitoring service, or the Crestron Fusion® Cloud enterprise management service.[1,2] Setup and operation can also be performed through the LCD front panel.

A quality power conditioner is an essential component of any professional system to prevent sudden equipment failure due to lightning and electrical disturbances, to prolong the lifespan of that equipment, and to maximize overall system performance during everyday operation. The PC-300 includes the following power conditioning features:

Under/Over Voltage Cutoff —Shuts off power to the rear panel outlets if the line voltage strays beyond the normal operating range, which is adjustable on the PC-300

Wiring Fault Detection —Detects faulty wiring of the incoming AC power line and shuts off power to the rear panel outlets until the fault is corrected[3]

When operated by its front panel power switch, the PC-300 allows each of its rear panel outlets to turn on in any order according to the delay time set for each outlet. Each outlet is individually adjustable to provide up to 10 seconds of delay before turning on, ensuring that the connected equipment gets powered up in proper order with sufficient time for each piece to stabilize. This helps to prevent dangerous transients that can damage delicate components and potentially trip the main circuit breaker. It can also help to prevent audible pops and thumps through connected audio equipment at power-up. Delayed turn-on is initiated by turning on the front panel power switch, or by applying power to the main line input following a power outage or through an externally switched circuit.

Any of the PC-300’s eight rear panel outlets can be turned on or off individually through the front panel LCD screen or over the network using a web browser or control system. This energy-saving feature allows select components to be powered down when not needed. Through integration with a control system, custom functionality can be programmed to enable control from a touch screen, keypad, remote, or mobile device. Sequential power-up and power-down functionality can be enabled through programming of the control system, with select outlets designated as always on. For systems employing a backup generator or UPS, load-shedding can be performed to shut down unnecessary components during a power outage.[1]

By sensing the incoming line voltage and individual device loads, the PC-300 facilitates a host of solutions for monitoring, automating, and troubleshooting a system.

Voltage monitoring allows fluctuations in the power line to be tracked and logged, helping to identify and document problems with the power utility or building wiring.

Energy monitoring per outlet provides the real power consumption (watts), current draw (amps), and energy usage (watt-hours) for each connected device.

An alert notification can be sent if there’s a sudden or abnormal drop in current draw, potentially indicating a device has been shut off improperly or disconnected due to theft (effective only when outlets are switched on).

The PC-300 offers a complete equipment protection solution by monitoring the ambient temperature within the equipment cabinet or room to prevent overheating. The included temperature sensor connects to the rear of the PC-300 and features a choice of magnetic or adhesive mounting for easy placement within a typical equipment rack enclosure. The over-temperature cutoff threshold can be set to shut down power to the system if conditions exceed a safe operating temperature. Through a control system, the temperature measurement can be utilized to regulate the operation of cooling fans or air-conditioning equipment to keep equipment running cool.

No matter how well a system is designed and programmed, even the finest control system or computer has the potential to lock up and stop responding once in a while. The PC-300 can be configured to detect an unresponsive device by sending it a ping command at regular intervals. If the ping request is not returned after four tries, the outlet feeding the monitored device cycles off and on to reboot the device, quickly restoring normal operation without any human intervention.

Events such as power surges, over/under voltage conditions, over-temperature conditions, ping failures, outlet switching activity, and sudden changes in current draw (indicative of a device being improperly shut off or disconnected) can all be logged as they occur to document the time and cause of problems and to track device usage. All sensor readings are logged at a configurable interval as short as five seconds providing a minimum of one week’s worth of data. Logs can be retrieved periodically to record a detailed history of events and energy usage over time.

The PC-300 integrates neatly into any system or facility. Used alone, it can be set up and managed through its front panel or a web browser. It can also be configured to send email notifications in case of certain specified events. Integration with the MyCrestron.com residential monitoring service provides a cloud based solution for homeowners to monitor and manage the PC-300 as part of a complete Crestron home automation system. Or, Crestron Fusion Cloud provides an enterprise solution for corporations and universities to manage rooms using the PC-300 throughout a building or campus. And of course, the PC-300 can be integrated with a Crestron control system via Ethernet or Cresnet® to enable control and monitoring through a touch screen, handheld remote, or mobile device.[1,2]

In testing, this surge protector was one of the best at preventing extra voltage from reaching its outlets. It also safely stops all power once the protection wears out, and it has 12 AC outlets plus coaxial and phone ports.

If you want a surge protector for your home office or entertainment setup, the Tripp Lite Protect It 12-Outlet Surge Protector TLP1208TELTV is your best choice. It has a critical auto-shutoff feature, more than enough outlets to keep all your gadgets powered, and both coaxial and telephone connectors. It offers great protection against household surges that come from other equipment in your home or fluctuations from the power company. Plus, it has a generous 8-foot cord, and it feels sturdy and robust.

For light-duty powering, such as under a nightstand or end table, the Accell Power Air is the way to go to protect gadgets such as phones, tablets, or alarm clocks from surges. It offers two USB ports and six AC outlets in a round package that’s smaller than a dinner plate. The USB ports put out a combined 2.4 amps, enough to charge one smartphone or tablet at a high speed or two devices at low speeds. The circular outlet layout makes the Power Air usable with a variety of plug sizes. Its 6-foot cord is 2 feet shorter than that of the Tripp Lite 12-outlet model but should still be plenty long for most people. The Power Air performed almost as well as our top pick against individual surges, though it might not hold up to as many surges over its lifetime given its lower joule rating (which describes roughly how much energy it can absorb before it dies—the company estimates it’ll withstand about 1,080 joules of use, whereas many larger models are built to handle more than 2,000 joules).

Tripp Lite’s three-outlet SK30USB has an auto-shutoff feature and offers almost as much surge protection as full-size models. Plus, it has two 2.1-amp USB ports.

The Tripp Lite Protect It 3-Outlet Surge Protector SK30USB offers the portability of our favorite small power strips for travel but with even more protection. It has an auto-shutoff mechanism, making it one of the few three-outlet options we’ve found that will disconnect the power when the surge protection wears out. In addition to the three AC outlets, it comes equipped with two USB ports that offer a combined 2.1 amps to charge a phone, a tablet, or a couple of low-power devices. It performs well compared with other small options we’ve tested, blocking almost as many volts as larger models. In contrast to many comparable models, its compact size, grounded (three-prong) plug, and optional screw in the center of the unit help keep it firmly attached to the wall outlet, which is important for preventing electrical fires or shocks. We’d choose the SK30USB for protecting a few small household appliances—say, an essential oil diffuser, a Nintendo Switch dock, and a coffee grinder—and a couple of smartphones, or even for tossing in a carry-on when we’re traveling.

Tripp Lite’s eight-outlet TLP825 has a 25-foot cord, which is three to four times the length of most surge protector cords. It has fewer outlets than our top pick and no extra ports, but it performed almost as well in our surge tests.

With a cord measuring 25 feet, the Tripp Lite Protect It 8-Outlet Surge Protector TLP825 has the longest cord of any of our picks, making it the ideal choice for a garage, a basement, or any room where wall outlets are few and far between. It performed about as well as Tripp Lite’s 12-outlet TLP1208TELTV (and better than Accell’s Power Air and Tripp Lite’s three-outlet SK30USB) in our surge tests. Since it’s unsafe to plug a surge protector into an extension cord or to daisy-chain multiple surge protectors together, you should get this model if the devices you want to protect are more than 8 feet away from an outlet. It has four fewer outlets than our top pick and no additional ports (coaxial, phone, or USB), but that’s a small sacrifice if you need the extra cord length.

Overkill unless you have high-end home theater, office, or media equipment, this unit knocked down surges better than any other model we tried, including surge eliminators costing twice as much.

Our top pick will protect most equipment in most cases. But the Furman Power Station 8 (PST-8) goes further, providing the best surge suppression of any model we tested—enough to give owners of high-end electronics peace of mind. It turned a 5,000-volt surge into just 40 volts, thanks in part to a shutdown circuit that turns off all power when a surge is detected. The PST-8 actually let less voltage through in our tests than high-end series mode surge eliminators that can cost hundreds more. But common equipment, such as a computer monitor, will be fine protected by one of our less expensive picks, so this model is best for people who insist on extra protection for particularly precious gear. Plus, it has a sturdy aluminum body and an 8-foot cord.

The world is now 1.1 degrees Celsius — 2 degrees Fahrenheit — warmer on average than it was at the dawn of the Industrial Revolution. But baked into that seemingly small change in the average is a big increase in dangerous extreme temperatures. That’s made cooling, particularly air conditioning, vital for the survival of billions of people.

The devastation of extreme temperatures is playing out right now in several places around the world. A gargantuan heat wave over India and Pakistan, where 1.5 billion people live, is now in its third week. Just 12 percent of India’s population has air conditioning, but even those people are suffering. The heat has triggered power outages, created water shortages, and killed dozens, although the true toll may not be known for weeks.

Closer to home, Texas is currently facing a record-breaking heat wave just as six power plants suddenly went offline. The state’s grid operator, the Electric Reliability Council of Texas, asked residents to avoid using large appliances and set thermostats to 78 degrees Fahrenheit between 3 pm and 8 pm.

These searing temperatures are just the latest in a pattern of increasingly hot weather. A heat wave that would have been a once-in-a-decade event in the 1800s is now hotter and happens nearly three times as often. Heat waves that used to occur once every 50 years are now nearly five times as frequent and reach higher temperatures. Heat records are broken so often they barely register as news. In its latest review of climate science, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change said it is “virtually certain” that heat waves have become more frequent and intense across most land areas since the 1950s.

Extreme heat events are also occurring over a wider region of the globe, from the depths of the ocean to the icy reaches of the Arctic. Heat waves are now such devastating events with long-lasting wounds that some countries say they should be named like hurricanes.

But the most severe risks from high temperatures are in places like India and Pakistan, regions closer to the equator that are already hot and have dense, growing populations. They also have less wealth, so fewer can afford cooling when thermometers reach triple digits.

The planet is only going to heat up more, rendering parts of the world unlivable. The most optimistic scenario is that global average temperatures will rise 1.5°C (2.7°F) this century, which will lead to even more intense and frequent heat waves. Right now, though, the world is on course to shoot well past this target.

Regardless of whether humanity gets its act together and drastically cuts emissions of the greenhouse gases that are warming up the planet, billions of people today and into the future desperately need to cool off. Their lives and livelihoods are at stake, making this one of the most urgent technology and policy challenges.

But staying cool amid the heat poses a paradox: The tactics for cooling can end up worsening the very problem they’re trying to solve if they draw on fossil fuels, or leak refrigerants that are potent heat-trapping gases. And the people who stand to experience the most extreme heat are often those least able to cool off.

Solving this conundrum requires untangling issues of equity and justice, as well as developing better tools for cooling beyond just ACs. It also requires rethinking the role of cooling in society. It is not a luxury, but a necessity for living in the world that we’ve created for ourselves.

Ambient temperatures are so foundational to our well-being that it’s easy to overlook their importance and the threat they pose. Extreme heat has been the deadliest weather phenomenon in the United States over the past 30 years, according to the National Weather Service.

That’s because heat has so many ways of hurting people. High temperatures make it harder for humans to shed excess heat. When air reaches temperatures higher than body temperatures, more heat flows into the human body than flows out. That can cause hyperthermia, heat stroke, and death. Some medications can become less effective with heat, while others can make people more susceptible to high temperatures.

During warmer weather, pollutants like ozone form faster, which can lead to breathing problems. In addition, the stress from heat is cumulative. High temperatures at night are particularly worrying because it means people have little relief from the heat during the day. Because of climate change, nights are actually warming faster than daylight hours.

And when extreme heat combines with humidity, the weather can turn lethal. To measure the risk from these conditions, scientists track the wet-bulb temperature, the temperature and humidity conditions where water will not evaporate. Higher wet-bulb temperatures mean it’s harder for a person to cool off by sweating. A healthy person can withstand a wet-bulb temperature of 35°C, or 95°F, for six hours. Older adults, young children, and people with underlying health conditions start to suffer at much lower thresholds.

But high temperatures can cause harm well before they reach the tip of the thermometer. For people who work on farms, on construction sites, in kitchens, or in factories, hotter temperatures lead to more injuries. Avoiding these risks has costs, too, as workers weigh lost wages against the potential for harm at work. Even in cooler workplaces like offices, studies have found that high temperatures reduce productivity and performance.

That adds up to a huge economic toll. By one estimate, heat costs the US economy $100 billion per year, a number poised to rise to $200 billion by 2030 and $500 billion by 2050 if nothing is done to mitigate climate change or the resulting harm.

There’s some debate among researchers about whether extreme heat poses a greater public health burden than extreme cold, but rising average temperatures mean that record-breaking cold events are becoming much less common, while heat records will continue to inch higher.

High temperatures with little relief could also pose political challenges. “If you can’t get cool, and you have lots of young people living in cities, that is a recipe for social disruption,” Kyte said. “Nothing will radicalize you more than no job, nowhere to get cool, and nowhere to get healthy or safe food.”

Yet in much of the world, air conditioning isn’t treated as essential. In the US, few states have mandates for cooling in housing, whereas most states and municipalities have a minimum heating requirement for landlords. The federal government does offer low-income households money to help pay for energy bills, including cooling and heating, but those households have to have cooling in the first place. AC is not required in federal public housing.

So a huge part of the challenge in preventing harm from heat is getting people and policymakers to recognize the threat and treat cooling as a lifesaving tool.

Cooling technologies, particularly air conditioning, have been reshaping societies around the world since Willis Carrier invented a device to prevent humidity from messing with ink at a Brooklyn printing plant in 1902.

These changes have had far-reaching and unexpected effects. In his 2014 book How We Got to Now: Six Innovations That Made the Modern World, author Steven Johnson connected the dots between the spread of air conditioning and the election of Ronald Reagan: ACs made the southwestern US more hospitable, and the growing population of the region became an important base of support for Reagan.

There are now roughly 2 billion air conditioners in use around the world today, with half of those units in the US and China alone. Cooling systems like ACs, fans, and ventilation account for about 20 percent of energy use in buildings globally, according to the International Energy Agency. That adds up to two-and-a-half times as much electricity consumed globally for cooling as the entire continent of Africa uses.

Cooling is not just for people. Refrigeration and freezing are essential for producing, storing, and transporting food, medicine, electronics, and, as Carrier found, books. By 2050, AC energy use is poised to triple on its current course, according to the IEA — which is roughly equivalent to the amount of electricity China uses today.

Within the current crop of air conditioners, there is wide variation in efficiency and the power sources they use. The spaces they cool aren’t all insulated the same ways, either.

There is also a huge gap in access. The IEA notes that for the nearly 3 billion people living in the hottest parts of the world, only 8 percent of them have ACs. And within countries, ACs are not distributed evenly. Access varies by income, but also by location. Last summer’s massive heat wave across the Pacific Northwest was especially worrying because so few people in the region have air conditioners due to the ordinarily mild climate. Seattle has the lowest percentage of households with air conditioning of any major metro area in the US. That likely contributed to hundreds of excess deaths.

Disparities in access to air conditioning also fall along racial lines. Black residents in New York City account for half of heat-related fatalities despite being 22 percent of the population; access to air conditioning is a key factor. Another is that neighborhoods with predominantly racial minority residents have fewer green spaces, foliage, and tree cover. Instead, their neighborhoods often have more concrete and asphalt. That worsens the heat island effect and makes temperatures in these areas rise higher than their surroundings.

It’s also a law of nature that you can’t cool a space without heating up another. In cities, the heat from running ACs at night can raise ambient temperatures by 1°C, or 1.8°F.

Air conditioners pose another direct problem for the climate. Many of them use refrigerants that are also powerful heat-trapping gases. Chemicals like hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs) can be upward of 12,000 times more potent at trapping heat in the atmosphere than carbon dioxide. Small coolant leaks multiplied by billions of AC units could be devastating for the climate.

There are many ways to curb the climate impacts of ACs. “The answer lies first and foremost in improving the efficiency of air conditioners, which can quickly slow down the growth in cooling-related electricity demand,” wrote Fatih Birol, executive director of the IEA, in a 2018 report. With greater energy efficiency, air conditioners do more with less. Also, homes and businesses need better insulation and sealing to prevent waste.

Another method is to manufacture more air conditioners that don’t use HFCs or other heat-trapping gases. Many countries, including the US, are phasing out HFCs. The US Senate will soon vote to ratify the Kigali Amendment to the Montreal Protocol, an international treaty that commits to cutting HFCs 85 percent by 2050.

At the same time, there is going to be a massive market for sustainable cooling technologies. “There are billions of people that aspire to be wealthy, and as your income starts going up, you’re going to want to have access to cooling,” Kyte said.

The electricity that powers air conditioners needs to come from sources that don’t emit greenhouse gases, so dialing down coal, oil, and natural gas power on the grid and ramping up wind, solar, and nuclear energy is crucial.

Technology alone is not enough. ACs are only useful for people who work indoors, but millions still labor outside. Reducing outdoor air temperatures requires careful planning to ensure adequate shade and measures like cool roofs. For some jobs, workers will have to take on schedules that keep them out of the sun during the hottest times of day. In some places, the only tolerable times to work outdoors are at night.

Cooling may also require a more collective approach. Rather than installing ACs on every individual home, some areas can use district cooling systems. And in emergencies, people will need public cooling centers.

Regulators need to step in, too. The US currently doesn’t have a national workplace standard for heat exposure, but the Occupational Safety and Health Administration is now in the process of developing a rule to protect workers from high temperatures. Governments also need to enforce tougher standards for energy efficiency in cooling.

The fixes for extreme heat don’t stop at the border. The countries that have historically burned the most fossil fuels now have the wealth to cope with rising temperatures, while those who contributed least to the problem are facing the most dangerous heat with the fewest resources. Ergo, rich countries are obligated to help places facing dangerous heat deploy cooling, and to help pay for it.

“I think that the economic case and the global security case for investing in these countries’ ability to deploy hyper-efficient, nonpolluting technologies is pretty damn clear,” Kyte said. “We’re all living on the same planet.”

So while billions of people are facing more devastating and extreme heat, protecting them and avoiding as much warming as possible benefits everyone on Earth. Air conditioning is now an unfortunate necessity, but it’s also an opportunity to address some of the underlying injustices of climate change.

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With your ever-growing collection of electronic devices, perhaps it seems your home never has enough power outlets. Power strips and their more elaborate siblings, surge protectors, offer an easy solution: one plug in the wall, many outlets for your devices. But wait! There"s more to these simple-seeming products than meets the eye.

Adding additional AC outlets and USB charging ports is incredibly useful, and often vital. Don"t waste money on the wrong one, however. Here"s everything you need to know about power strips and surge protectors.

Typically, power strips are cheap, multioutlet products that are merely an expansion of a wall outlet. They"re usually small and thin, sometimes fitting directly onto the outlet itself. They usually have a circuit breaker (on/off switch) of some sort, but most don"t offer any real "protection" from electrical issues. Some might have the barest level of protection, but they"re all pretty much just like plugging into the wall directly.

Surge protectors are relatively cheap too, but unlike power strips they offer some level of protection. As their name suggests, surge protectors protect your products from power surges at the expense of itself. But more on that in a moment. How much they do this, and how well varies considerably. They"re usually a bit more elaborate, and often bigger, than a simple power strip, though not always.

Surge protectors offer protection in units called joules. Generally, the more joules the better, as this means the device can handle one large surge, or multiple smaller surges, before your gear is in danger. Over time, the parts inside the protector wear down, reducing its effectiveness.

Unfortunately, there"s no way to know how much protection a device has left, or if the initial rating is even accurate. Buying from a reputable company, and one that includes a warranty, is a good idea.

Some surge protectors offer a warranty (up to a certain amount) on the gear connected to the protector. For example, in the US, certain Belkin models have up to $300,000 in connected equipment warranty, and states: "Belkin Components will repair or replace, at its option, any equipment which is damaged by a transient voltage surge/spike or lightning strike, (an "Occurrence"), while properly connected through a Belkin Surge Protector to a properly wired AC power line with protective ground."

You"ll probably never need it, but it certainly doesn"t hurt to have it. Keep in mind, however, that just because the warranty exists doesn"t mean you"ll ever see a dime from it. Note in that Belkin quote the term "at its option." That means they"ll come up with any reason not to cover your claim. So don"t use this as a replacement for home or renter"s insurance.

You"re always going to need more outlets. You"ll undoubtedly add more gear, without necessarily getting rid of your current gear. I"m not saying that if you think you need four outlets, you should get 12 -- but at least six is probably a good investment.

Most modern devices use "wall warts" -- plugs that convert AC power into DC power and look like little boxes with electrical prongs sticking out. Consider getting a surge protector with wider spacing between sockets, or sockets that can be rotated or moved, to accommodate chunky plugs.

Many surge protectors come with USB connections, so y