ender 3 pro lcd screen quotation

Ender 3 Pro is up grade version of the popular Creality Ender 3. It is capable of resuming printing from the last recorded extruder position after suffering unexpected power outages. This printer is easy-to-setup. It comes partially assembled, allowing you to learn about the basic construction of 3D printers as you finish putting it together. Ender 3 Pro comes with a removable, magnetic flexplate making it easier for you to remove your prints of the bed.

This is a Genuine Creality LCD screen for their machines that use this type of LCD. See below for a compatibility list. 2 Cables are included with the LCD. Creality LCD knob is included as well. This LCD is the latest version with the EXP1, EXP2, and EXP3 headers.

3 Months Warranty -Our warranty covers any and all defects with the product. If your product fails or has problems within the warranty period you can contact our support team by using the Contact Us link.

Damage/Failure due to improper installation, improper usage, failure resulting from an issue with the machine the product is installed on, 3rd party products connected to our product, and/or modification of the product are not covered under warranty.

Really like the design and how it slims my printer profile down. Only problem was the block on the left side of the display faceplate made my display not fit, and I didn’t realize till after, so rather than reprint I just chopped it off with a dremel. Also wish there had been a version that didn’t have your logo on it, but it was easy enough to chop off and throw mine on so my printer is customized to me, and I took the opportunity to do a filament change to make the debossed logo pop. Next up, the power supply mount.

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The LCD display controller module is a perfect fit for your Ender-3/Ender-3s/Ender-3 Pro and other 3D Printers. It is very easy to install and you can replace your problematic displays with this brand new LCD display.

The Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro is a great 3D printer that offers excellent print quality and a wide range of features. At a cost of less than $500, it is one of the top choices to consider if you are looking for an all-round 3D printer that is easy to use and produces reliable results.

With its new Ender 3 S1 series, Creality has taken the Ender 3 range of 3D printers to the next level. With its upgraded features, the recently released Ender 3 S1 is now one of the best-value 3D printers on the market.

The Ender 3 S1 Pro is an upgraded version of the standard model, with a few new features that make it even better. In this review, we’ll take a look at what this new printer has to offer, and see if it’s worth the extra money.

Because the S1 and S1 Pro have many similarities, this review will mention things we also covered in our Ender 3 S1 review. However, we will also go into more detail about the new features of the Ender 3 S1 Pro, and how they compare to the regular S1.

You can use the S1 Pro for printing in materials such asPLA,ABS, PETG,TPU, and other common filament types. You can also use more exotic materials, like wood filament and metal-filled filament.

If you are familiar with the latest FDM 3D printer releases, you won’t be surprised to find the S1 Pro is shipped partially assembled. This is a common way to send 3D printers nowadays, as it saves assembly time for the end-user.

The process is relatively straightforward and took us around 15 minutes. As long as you are patient and follow the instructions, you shouldn’t have any problems.

The assembly steps are fairly similar to that of the regular Ender 3 S1. Just like with that 3D printer, there are a couple of important setup steps missing from the manual. We’ve included those steps here to ensure that your machine is set up correctly.

Following that, you need to mount the Sprite Pro extruder to the X-axis carriage. Simply clamp it on by hand and use four of the included M3x6 bolts to secure it in place.

Once that’s done, you can attach the touch screen to the base. Unlike with the non-Pro version, here the screen is already pre-attached to its mount. This saves you a small amount of work.

Once you’ve done that, it is time to attach all the wiring of the Ender 3 S1 Pro. All wiring harnesses are already pre-routed and come with labels, so you can’t really go wrong here.

One of the criticisms we had of the manual of the S1 was the unclear instructions for the wiring portion of the assembly. In the manual for the Pro version, this has been improved. The instructions are more clear and easier to follow.

The final thing to do is to check that the voltage input selector on the power supply is set to the correct voltage. If you live in a country with 110V power, make sure it is set to 115V. If you have 220-240V power, make sure it is set to 230V.

Tightening 3D printer belts is important to ensure proper print quality and layer alignment. If your belts are too loose, your prints will likely be misaligned or suffer from artifacts.

To tighten the X- and Y-axis belts on the Ender 3 S1 Pro, you can simply use the wheels on the pre-installed belt tensioners. Rotate them clockwise until the belts are tight, but make sure not to over-tighten them. The belts should be tight enough that you can’t push them down easily with your finger, but not more than that.

To adjust them, simply use the included wrench to rotate them until they provide resistance. There is not much more to it. After they are properly tightened, the play in the motion of the gantries should be gone.

That’s it for most of the assembly and setup of the Ender 3 S1 Pro. The last steps are leveling the bed and setting the Z offset. Both of these are covered in the manual and in our S1 review, so we will let you find those instructions there if you need them.

Because the S1-series 3D printers have a number of features in common, we’ll start by looking at the ones that are specifically found on the S1 Pro. After that, we’ll move on to a more general overview of the standout features of these series.

Unlike the regular S1, which comes with the PTFE-lined “Sprite” hot end, the S1 Pro comes with an all-metal “Sprite Pro” hot end. This hot end is an improvement over the regular version and probably one of the main reasons you’d want to consider the S1 Pro over the S1.

On the other hand, typicalall-metal 3D printer hot ends like the Sprite Pro can reach temperatures up to 300 °C. This means that you’ll be able to print with a wider range of materials, including Nylon, high-temperature ABS, and other engineering plastics.

Also, because the Sprite Pro is a direct extruder and not a Bowden extruder, the filament path is very short. This means that there is very little room for the filament to deform, which reduces the risk of clogging and jams. It also lets you 3D print withflexible filaments like TPU on the Ender 3 S1 Pro.

In our use of both the Sprite and Sprite Pro extruders, we have found that they both work very well. With a 1:3.5 gear ratio and 80N of extrusion force, they have plenty of strength to deal with all common filaments.

The only downside to the Sprite Pro is that, because it is a direct extruder, it is a bit heavier than a Bowden. The frame of the Ender 3 S1 Pro is more than adequate to handle that extra weight, however.

Another upgrade of the S1 Pro over the S1 is its PEI-coated print bed. PEI, or polyethyleneimine, is a material that is frequently used as a build surface on 3D printers. It provides excellent adhesion for most filaments and can be reused many times without significantly degrading.

Probably the best thing about flexible PEI coated beds is that, once your print is done, it can simply be popped off the print bed. There is no need for any kind of bed adhesive or other preparation of the build surface.

The original S1 comes with a PC-coated bed. While prints stick to that even better, it is more difficult to remove the prints once they are done. This is not a huge problem, but it can lead to premature wear of the build surface.

It is important to mention that the PEI print bed on the S1 Pro is single-sided. You won’t be able to use the smoother back side of the bed for your prints.

All beds on the Ender 3 S1 series are flexible and can be removed for easy cleaning and replacement. They also all have the same 220×220 mm dimension, currently the most common print area size for this type of 3D printer.

The print surface of the Ender 3 S1 Pro has excellent temperature uniformity. Near the corners the temperature is off from the setpoint by a couple of degrees Celcius, but overall it is very consistent. This is as good as it gets for an open-frame 3D printer.

The print bed takes about 1 minute 33 seconds to get up to 60 °C, and 5 minutes 40 seconds to reach the maximum 110 °C. It’s not a long wait compared to some other 3D printers in this class.

You’ll also find that the Ender 3 S1 Pro comes with a pre-installed LED light bar at the top of the 3D printer. This feature allows you to see your 3D prints better, especially in low-light conditions.

Because the LED light is hooked up to the 3D printer’s expansion port, which supports PWM, it might be possible to control the brightness through software. We did not see a way to do it through the printer’s user interface, but perhaps it is possible through GCode commands.

The LED lighting itself has a fairly warm color temperature. We haven’t measured the CRI (Color Rendering Index) of the LEDs to see how accurately they are able to reproduce colors, but judging by eye they are fairly average in that regard. Not bad, but also not great.

The LED light bar is a welcome addition to the Ender 3 S1 Pro. It is not a necessity, but it is a nice feature to have. It doesn’t only provide better lighting for when you are working with your 3D printer, but it also works well if you need LED light for making 3D print time-lapses.

We found it very tempting to grab the printer by the LED light bar each time we wanted to move the S1 Pro around. Its plastic construction won’t support the full weight of the 3D printer, so make sure that you keep yourself from doing that if you feel the same need.

You can find the sensor at the top of the 3D printer, at the base of the spool holder. When your filament runs out or is broken, it sends a signal to the 3D printer controller board.

After that, the 3D printer pauses the print and notifies you through the LCD screen. You can then change the filament and resume the print from where it left off.

This is an extremely useful feature, especially if you are printing large or complex prints. It is typically reserved for larger 3D printers with an increased print volume, but we are glad to see it on the Ender 3 S1 Pro as well.

Another feature that is typically found on larger and more expensive 3D printers is automatic bed leveling. The Ender 3 S1 Pro comes with this feature as well, through the use of a CR-Touch probe.

CR-Touch andBLTouch sensors are popularEnder 3 upgrades, so it is good to see that they are now included in the stock configuration of the S1 and S1 Pro.

For those unfamiliar with automatic bed leveling, it is a process in which the 3D printer uses a probing sensor to determine the level of multiple points on the build plate. It then adjusts the Z-axis offset accordingly, ensuring that the first layer of your print is always perfect.

Sensors like these take away a lot of the hassle that used to come with 3D printing and remove the need to manually level your print bed. We have found the CR-Touch on the Ender 3 S1 Pro to work accurately and without problems.

Just like the S1, the S1 Pro has a dual Z-axis configuration. This means that it has two stepper motors and corresponding lead screws that are responsible for the movement of the Z-axis.

The main benefit of this setup is that it provides greater stability when 3D printing. The S1 Pro’s direct extruder can put a lot of strain on the Z-axis when printing at higher speeds, so this extra stability is a welcome addition.

To avoid missing steps, the two lead screws are synchronized at the top with a timing belt. This prevents the stepper motors from going out of sync with each other, which can lead to position errors. No such problems on this machine.

The Ender 3 S1 Pro uses the exact same3D printer controller as the S1 does. It is the 32-bit CR-FDM-v2.4.S1_v301 board with an STM32F401 as the main chip. Plenty powerful and you likely won’t need to upgrade it to something faster during the printer’s lifetime.

As stepper motor drivers, the board uses four Trinamic TMC2209 chips. These drive the stepper motors very silently, resulting in a very silent 3D printer during operation. We did notice an annoying coil whine from the stepper motors when they were idling, however. More on that in the sound level section of this Ender 3 S1 Pro review.

It isn’t available yet at the moment of writing, but Creality has announced a liquid cooling heatsink upgrade for more effective heat dissipation of the hot end. This sounds like an exciting addition that can be used for a >300°C 3D printer hot end. With such a hot end, fancy engineering materials will be a 3D printing option.

Along with the announced laser module upgrade that lets you use the machine as a laser engraver, the Ender 3 S1 Pro has plenty of upgrade options that let you extend the functionality of the machine.

Like many open-frame 3D printers, the Ender 3 S1 Pro uses aluminum extrusions with joint and member construction for its frame. This results in a 3D printer that is rigid and easy to assemble.

The frame is less rigid than that of an enclosed 3D printer, but it is sufficient for dealing with the loads that the S1 Pro sustains. Its build volume is relatively small and its direct extruder is significantly lighter than that of other 3D printers, like theAnycubic Kobra. Even at higher print speeds, the frame holds up well and does not flex significantly.

The print volume on the S1 Pro is 220x220x270mm. A typical size for printers in the Ender 3 series, even though the new Ender 3 S1 models have an extra 20 mm print height.

This is an appropriate size for most applications, but if you expect to do a lot of huge 3D prints, you’ll have to look at large 3D printers, like the CR-10 Smart Pro.

The PSU is a 350W 24V rebranded unit. It seems to be a quality unit that is more than sufficient for the S1 Pro. We have not experienced any problems with it in our testing and it produces less noise than other 3D printer PSUs we have worked with.

The wiring is also of good quality, the right wire gauges are used and most of the cables are sleeved. This helps to improve durability and gives the S1 Pro a more polished look.

It’s a step above what many otherbudget 3D printer manufacturers are doing in this area, and it’s good to see Creality paying attention to these details.

As with the S1 model and even the older Ender 3 V2, the S1 Pro comes with a parts drawer in the front. You can use this to keep your work area clean and organized.

The dimensions of the Ender 3 S1 Pro drawer are a bit larger than that of the S1. We found ourselves stuffing the S1 drawer with all of the printer’s accessories, so the extra space on the Pro version is appreciated.

Because we only tested one unit, we can’t say if this is just a natural variation in fan quality or a structural difference that is present in each model of the S1 Pro.

The second source is the stepper motors. When they idle, they produce an audiblecoil whine. You are unlikely to notice this much during 3D printing, as the motors will be moving (i.e. not idle) most of the time. If you run into this, it might also be possible for you to address this by flashing custom firmware that sets a different idle current for the steppers.

One of the biggest upgrades of the S1 Pro over the S1 is its LCD touchscreen. The S1 has an LCD screen with a control knob and while it works well, the Pro version’s touch screen is a step up in terms of both convenience and aesthetics.

On the touchscreen, all the standard printer controls are present and easy to find. There are a couple of notable additions to the firmware options that were not available on the V3.0.3 firmware of the S1.

For starters, the S1 Pro has nine different languages to choose from. If you’re not a native English or Chinese speaker (the only language options on the S1), this might be a reason to go with the Pro model instead.

Another addition is the inclusion of 5 quick-selectable positions for manual leveling of the bed. While you won’t be manually leveling the bed much (or at all) because of the CR Touch probe, if for some reason you do need to, it’s now a lot easier.

The automatic leveling sequence now also shows a progress bar on the LCD screen. This gives you a better idea of how far along the S1 Pro is in the process, and how much time you still have to wait.

Keep in mind that all the comparison of these settings was done with the V2.0.8.15F4 firmware on the S1 Pro and V3.0.3 on the S1. It is possible that the newest versions of the firmware have more available functions, so you want to make sure to keep your 3D printer’s firmware up to date.

We reported that the S1 is relatively easy to repair and work on, and the S1 Pro is no different. In fact, it might even be a bit easier since the Pro only requires you to remove six bolts to access the electronics compartment. On the S1, this number was nine.

The compact construction of the Sprite Pro extruder is more difficult to disassemble than other direct extruders. This can come into play if you ever have to solve a clog or other issue. Because you won’t be doing this very often, this is not a deal-breaker.

The Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro comes with a pre-installed handle on the front of the print bed. It’s a practical addition for moving the heated bed around when it is up to temperature.

We don’t find ourselves using the handle very often as the tabs on the PEI-coated print surface work just as well for bed temperatures of up to 60-70 °C. However, given that the S1 Pro is well-equipped for dealing with high-temperature filaments, the handle is a safer solution when the bed is heated to around its maximum temperature of 110 °C.

The print quality of the Ender 3 S1 Pro is more than acceptable. It is practically identical to that of the Ender 3 S1. Here are a couple of example 3D prints so you can judge for yourself.

This is the bunny GCode that comes included on the SD card. The results are excellent. Interestingly, there are a couple of minor artifacts on the print that we also saw during the review of the Ender 3 S1. This leads us to believe that it is the exact same GCode file.

The PolyPearl tower is an excellent test for overhangs, bridging, and small print areas. The Ender 3 S1 Pro handled it surprisingly well. The only noticeable defect is some sagging in the triangle sections of the helix, but that is hard to prevent on any 3D printer.

This close-up of the pillars show more detail. The print cooling fan of the S1 Pro cooled the filament properly in this section. There are a couple of imperfections caused by the print seam being set to the rear of the 3D print.

This print is one of our favorites for testing a 3D printer’s dimensional accuracy. If the 3D printer is dialed in correctly, the internal print-in-place mechanism should work after the print is taken off the build plate.

Another print that tests the accuracy of the 3D printer. This articulated chameleon was printed superbly by the S1 Pro. All the parts were movable straight from the build plate, including the eyes.

A close-up reveals near perfect results. There really isn’t much we could ask the S1 Pro to improve upon. Altogether a very impressive display with just the out of the box settings!

After reading this Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro review, you have seen that the Ender 3 S1 Pro is a capable 3D printer. It offers several features that make the machine a breeze to use, like its all-metal hot end, LCD touch screen, and CR Touch auto-leveling sensor.

Compared to the Ender 3 S1, the S1 Pro brings a number of upgrades. Its Sprite Pro hot end, touch screen, LED lighting, and PEI-coated heated bed are the most notable. They give you wider filament material compatibility and easier use of the 3D printer.

At an $80 higher cost, it is worth asking whether these additions are worth the price. We think they are, which is part of the reason why we recommend the Ender 3 S1 Pro as one of the best 3D printers under $500.

Before getting into the differentiating aspects of the Creality Ender 3 Pro and Ender 3 V2, we’ll take a look at some of the features that are shared by all of these printers, which is also a good way to understand the capabilities of the base model. Once you are acquainted with the features in the Ender 3 series, we’ll outline the upgrades and whether we think they are worth the extra cost.

All of the Ender 3 models have a build volume of 220 x 220 x 250 mm. While this is a bit larger than the standard 200mm cube of many 3D printers on the market, it is still small enough that the printer can easily fit on a desk. The extended Z height is convenient to allow larger parts while not increasing the amount of required desk space. If you are looking for something that can print larger parts, we recommend that you take a look at Creality’s CR-10 series of machines, which have a larger 300x300x400 mm build volume. Of course, those machines come with the trade-off of a larger footprint and higher price tag. You can find more information about those machines on our printer comparison page.

We wont get into the details of assembling the Ender 3 in this comparison, but the process is very similar across all of the variants. The printer is shipped in approximately 12 separate pieces to reduce packaging size, and takes about an hour to assemble with the included tools. We have found that the assembly is helpful in getting to know the printer hardware, and will make it easier to troubleshoot issues you may encounter in the future. That said, if you are looking for something that will be quicker to assemble, the larger CR-10 series printers ship in only two pieces, and can be assembled much more quickly.

All Ender 3 models include the same extruder and hot end. The hot end is capable of getting up to 260C, hot enough to print any common materials such as PLA, PETG, and ABS. The hot ends include a part cooling fan which cools models as they print and is especially useful when printing in PLA. You may notice that the Ender 3 V2 hot end looks different due to a new enclosure, but “under the hood" it is identical to the other Ender 3 models.

The extruder is a single gear drive with a plastic body, which wesuggest upgrading to a metal one for improved reliability. All Ender 3s also include a heated bed capable of reaching 100C, which is hot enough to print ABS parts (though each has a different type of bed surface; more on that later).

The Ender 3 chassis has some differences between the models, but all have an integrated screen which is mounted to the side of the printer, which is convenient in making the printer easy to transport, and reduces the footprint. This is in contrast to the CR-10 series printers which use a separate control box which makes the printer more difficult to move.

All modern Creality printers are equipped withthermal runaway protection, an important safety feature which ensures that the heated bed and hot end will not overheat if the temperature sensor malfunctions. Ender 3s are also equipped with power recovery, allowing you to resume a print if the printer shuts off due to a power failure. All Ender 3 printers run on 24V DC power, so be sure to use 24V components when replacing parts such as heater cartridges or fans.

The Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro are identical in size, but the Ender 3 V2 is a bit larger than its predecessors. The addition of belt tensioners and a larger screen increase the width of the printer by 25mm (about an inch) and the depth by 40mm (about 1 1/2’”), which is not significant, but may be a concern if you have limited space for your printer. The V2 is also 40mm taller due to the bed being placed higher, however vertical space is typically less of an issue.Ender 3/3 Pro: 440 x 410 x 465 mm (595mm high with filament holder)Ender 3 V2: 475 x 450 x 490 mm (620mm high with filament holder)

The changes on the Creality Ender 3 Pro are primarily focused around reliability and generally improved components. The Ender 3 V2 has all of the upgrades of the Pro and a few additional ones. These changes result in a small improvement in print quality for the higher end models, but we have found that the overall print quality of all of the machines is very similar.

The most visible change is a thicker central beam that is twice as thick as the ender 3 at 40x40mm. Since the print bed moves along this beam, a thicker beam ensures that the bed will travel more smoothly and should result in fewer issues over time. We have found that this has a modest impact on the quality, and while nice to have, is not a significant improvement to the printer.

A more important upgrade is the use of a name-brand Meanwell Power Supply. While this does not impact the operation of the printer, these PSUs are known to be more reliable and are less likely to fail. They additionally feature more efficient fans which are only activated when needed, but the reliability is what we like best about this improvement.

In addition to the improvements of the Pro, the Ender 3 V2 includes a few more changes. The feet of the printer are much thicker, which we have found helps more than we expected in reducing vibrations of the printer. It also improves the airflow under the printer.

Another nice feature is built-in belt tensioners for both the X and Y axes of the printer which allow you to quickly adjust the belt tension. When belts are too loose, it can cause the belts to skip, causing large layer shifts that will ruin your 3D print. If the belts are too tight, the motors can bind up, preventing the bed and hot end from moving effectively. Adjusting the belt tension is possible on the earlier other printers, but requires holding the belts in tension while tightening the locking nut, which can be tricky and difficult to set precisely, so we consider this a reliability and usability improvement.

While all three printers feature a heated print bed, the bed material is different across the machines. The Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro both use a matte build surface which has very good adhesion, however removing prints can be difficult. Additionally, the beds are prone to damage if a print sticks too well, or if the nozzle ever gets too low. The Ender 3 Pro somewhat addresses these issues by featuring a magnetic removable bed which you can remove and bend to help remove the print.

The Ender 3 V2 Uses a coated glass bed which we have found to be a big improvement over the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro. The bed coating helps with adhesion, and parts can be removed easily once the bed has cooled. The bed is also less prone to damage.

Fortunately, you can upgrade the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro to use a glass bed easily for around $15, so we definitely recommend upgrading this soon after purchasing if you decide on an Ender 3 or Ender 3 Pro.

The Ender 3 V2 is the clear winner if you are looking for a quiet printer. The Ender 3 Pro’s Meanwell PSU does offer some improvement over the base model due to the more efficient fans, but it is a modest improvement. The V2 includes an upgraded silent mainboard with improved quiet motor drivers that drastically reduce the sound of the printer motors. Printers without these drivers produce a song-like sound while the motors are moving, which can be difficult to ignore. In contrast, the ambient sound of a fan tends to fade into the background.

Beyond this, enclosures are a great way to reduce the sound of a printer. Creality offers a custom fit enclosure for the Ender 3 which can further reduce the sound of the printer, and is compatible with all three models. And by the way, if you’re planning to print in ABS, an enclosure is critical since keeping a higher ambient temperature prevents parts from warping at the corners.

The Ender 3 Pro does not add any features related to usability, but there are a number of new features of the Ender 3 V2 worth noting. The most visible update is an updated larger screen with a new user interface. The new interface is easier to use, but one thing we noticed is that it looks a lot like a touch screen, but it is still controlled using a separate knob. This caused us some confusion when we originally tested the printer. The V2 also made some changes to the chassis to provide space for a utility drawerto store the tools that are included with the printer. As someone who misplaces tools and has lost every 10mm socket I have ever owned, this is a welcome feature to combat misplacing these important tools.

We think the Ender 3 V2 is the best choice for a first 3D printer since it has reliability upgrades to help avoid early issues. With your first 3D printer, you’ll be learning a lot about how printers work and dialing in the quality of prints, so reliability is very important to ensure you have fun and are not encountering frustrating issues while you learn.

We think the Ender 3 V2 is the best choice here due to its upgrades for quiet printing, and its easier to use UI which will help your kids use the printer more easily.

If you are looking to experiment with upgrading your 3D printer, theEnder 3 is the best option for you. You can apply many of the upgrades yourself, such as the glass bed and an upgraded power supply, and come out saving money on the printer even after the cost of upgrading. The Ender 3 has a large community and more history of upgrades for you to build on.

We think theEnder 3 V2is the final winner since it packs in a lot of great upgrades for a reasonable price and is still a bargain compared to other printers in its class. If you are more budget conscious, we’d recommend sticking with the base Ender 3 and not the Pro, which we don’t feel is worth the extra cost for the modest upgrades it provides.