can cold temperatures kill an lcd touch screen manufacturer

I don"t know if a freezer would get the units cold enough to see what happens. I"ve used both grayscale and coler etrex units outside in the winter, and find they"re good to a little below zero fareheit most of the time if you use lithium batteries. Somewhere around zero or a little below, the sreen will get really sluggish, and start doing strange stuff where only parts of it update and stuff like that. The unit will keep recording good tracks though long after the display stops working. On the other end of the spectrum, having taken the Grayscale units into the desert many a time, I can report that direct hot sun on the display will cause the constrast to change to the point you can"t read the screen anymore, and that with eTrex units or a G-III at least you can"t adjust the constrast enough to make them useable. I haven"t observed similar behavior with color units yet though.

On the Teton snowshoe backpacking trip I went on where it got cold enough to cause my VistaC display to fail, I just used the lanyard and kept it inside my coat worn around my neck most of the time. You can then pull it out and use it for a considerable amount of time before it gets cold enough to cause any problems. Other than the rare occasion, most of time though I don"t expose my units to the cold for a long enough period of time to experience problems. As I age, I find I"m a lot less likely to expose myself to that sort of condition. (Who knows, maybe it"s wisdom)

The temperature in New York City on Tuesday was a high of 19°F and a low of 4°, which is being blamed on the Polar Vortex that is ravaging most of the country with icy weather.

Stepping into the bitter cold, you may have noticed such bodily effects as numbing of the extremities and difficulty breathing. But people are not alone in battling the effects of the cold. Some of our most prized possessions also react to the dipping thermostat: our mobile devices.

Smartphones are known to withstand cold temperatures much better than hot; however, extreme cold temperatures can have adverse effects on our favorite gadgets. Studies have shown that many Android devices fare better in the cold than Apple devices, but smartphones across the board appear to succumb equally at about -40 Degrees, where all functionality ceases.

Though it may just feel like its -40 out, recent temperatures are actually low enough to elicit negative effects on smartphones. Here’s a list of issues than can arise in your smartphone due to the cold.

Battery drain is one of the most immediate effects of cold weather. Devices may spontaneously shut down with a dead battery in the extreme cold. Over time, extended exposure to cold temperatures can kill a smartphone battery all together.

Smartphones with LCD displays are more susceptible to the cold than those with AMOLED displays. With LCD displays in particular, users may experience delayed touchscreen reactions as well as smudging and ghosting of text and colors. Display panels are also more susceptible to shattering when dropped as the cold makes the panel rigid.

In extreme cold temperatures smartphones may begin to register various errors of a their internal components. Devices may have difficulty reading a SIM card or executing a number processing functionalities.

As said, extreme cold causes components of smartphones, both internal and external, to become rigid, which could lead to physical damage like spontaneous screen shattering. Drops or blunt movements can also crack a screen and dislodge or damage internal components. Devices left in extreme cold temperatures for an extended time can be susceptible to permanent damage, especially when left in ‘sleep mode.’

Smartphones are susceptible to liquid condensation underneath their displays if they are used soon after being brought into a warm area after an extended time in the cold. This can cause various liquid damage issues and can also make the screen hard to read.

Don’t take your smartphone out in the cold/limit use in the cold. Leave your smartphone in your pocket, jacket, bag or purse. Leaving devices in a pocket close to your own body heat is most recommended.

Protect your smartphone with a heavy duty, weatherproof case such as an OtterBox or Lifeproof case. Such cases are dirt proof, waterproof and drop resistant.

Use warming gloves when handling a smartphone in the cold. Whether gloves are warmed or not, protecting yourself in the cold will also help prevent accidental drops due to your own physical reactions to the cold.

Don’t leave your smartphone in a cold vehicle for extended periods of time, especially not overnight. Such extended use can cause permanent internal and external damage.

Keep your smartphone away from or protected from snow related activities such as shoveling or sledding. In addition to the cold, the opportunity for the device to get wet is also great and extremely damaging.

Use headphones or a Bluetooth earbud and mic in order to keep smartphones put away while out in the cold. Not only do many Bluetooth devices have call answer buttons, many smartphones have quick answer options, which will allow users to take calls without handling the device.

Charge your smartphone before going outside. If your battery is fully before going out into the cold, it is less likely to experience battery drain. Keep a mobile charger around for long trips as well as an extra battery for backup.

If your smartphone happens to be exposed to extreme cold, the best thing to do is to turn the device off and allow it to warm back up to room temperature before turning it on again for use. This not only helps prevent condensation, but also helps prevent any other damage that might occur while the device is warming up.

Smartphones are the opium of the people. If you need proof, just watch the average person’s reaction when they break “their precious”. Repairing smartphones has become a huge business. The most often broken item on phones is of course the front glass. In most cases, the screen itself doesn’t break. On newer smartphones, even the touchscreen is safe. The front glass is only a protective lens.

The easiest way to repair a broken front glass is to swap the entire LCD assembly. For an iPhone 6 plus, this will run upwards of $120 USD. However, the glass lens alone is just $10. The problem is that the LCD, digitizer and front glass are a laminated package. Removing them without breaking the wafer thin LCD glass requires great care. The hardest part is breaking down the optical glue securing the glass to the LCD. In the past that has been done with heat. More recently, companies from China have been selling liquid-nitrogen-based machines that cool the assembly. Now immersing a phone screen in -196° C liquid nitrogen would probably destroy the LCD. However, these machines use a temperature controller to keep a surface at -140° C. Just enough to cause the glue to become brittle, but not kill the LCD.

[JerryRigEverything] doesn’t have several thousand dollars for a liquid nitrogen machine, but he does have a $5 block of dry ice. Dry ice runs at -78.5°C. Balmy compared to liquid nitrogen, but still plenty cold. After laying the phone screens down on the ice for a few minutes, [Jerry] was able to chip away the glass. It definitely takes more work than the nitrogen method. Still, if you’re not opening your own phone repair shop, we think this is the way to go.

Broken phones are a cheap and easy way to get high-resolution LCD screens for your projects. The problem is driving them.[Twl] has an awesome project on Hackaday.io for driving phone screens using an FPGA. We haven’t seen it done with iPhone 6 yet though. Anyone up for the challenge?

No way in heck would I leave my scope (a Rigol) out in the garage. I have most of my stuff in an unheated storage unit at the moment and while I"m not using the scope for anything currently, it is still waiting patiently in my bedroom. I think you made the right choice by being more careful with yours as well.

When I said earlier that LCDs don"t like the cold... they can actually crack or otherwise completely break. I wasn"t just referring to sluggish performance, though sluggish performance is almost a definite in the cold whereas cracking is just a slight possibility (if your equipment is good).

With winter well upon us I thought it would be good to share some of my arctic shooting experience. I’ve shot in temperatures down to -45c in the arctic in winter.

Overall modern tapeless cameras do OK in extreme cold. The most reliable cameras are generally larger solid state cameras. Larger cameras cool slower than small ones and larger cameras will hold on to heat generated internally better than small ones. Cameras and electronics with lots of cooling vents can sometimes also be troublesome as the vents allow them to cool more quickly. But cold is not necessarily going to be the biggest problem.

Condensation is the big deal breaker. When you take the very cold camera inside into a warm house/hotel/car/tent you will get condensation. If the camera is very cold this can then freeze on the body of camera including the glass of the lens. If there is condensation on the outside of the camera, there will almost certainly also be condensation inside the camera and this can kill your camera.

To prevent or at least reduce the condensation you can place the camera in a large ziplock or other sealed bag BEFORE taking it inside, take the camera inside in the bag. Then allow the camera to warm up to the ambient temperature before removing it from the bag. Peli cases are another option, but the large volume of the pelicase means there will be more moisture inside the case to condense and the insulating properties of the case mean that it could take many, many hours to warm up.

I don’t recommend storing a cold or damp camera in a Pelicase (or any other similar waterproof case) as there is nowhere for the moisture to go, so the camera will remain damp until the case is opened and everything dried out properly.

Rather than moving a camera repeatedly from outside to inside and repeatedly generating risky condensation you should consider leaving the camera outside. You can leave the camera outside provided it does not get below -25c. Below -25c you risk the LCD panel freezing and cracking. LCD  panels freeze at between -30 to -40c. If you are using a camera in very cold conditions and you notice the edges of the LCD screen going blue or dark you should start thinking about warming up that LCD panel as it may be close to freezing.

LCD displays will become slow and sluggish to respond in the cold. Your pictures may look blurry and smeary because of this. It doesn’t affect the recording, only what you see on the LCD.

Very often in cold regions houses will have an unheated reception room or porch. This is a good place to store your camera rather than taking it inside into the warm. Repeatedly taking a camera from cold to warm without taking precautions against condensation will shorten the life of your camera.

Li-Ion batteries are effected by the cold but they are not nearly as bad as Nicads or NiMh batteries which are all but useless below freezing. li-Ion battery life gets reduced by between 25 and 50% depending on how cold it is and the quality of the battery (very cheap cells may have a higher water content which can freeze causing the cell to dramatically lose capacity and the ability to deliver power).

Down to about -10c there is only a very marginal loss of capacity. Down to -25c you will lose about 20%-30% below -25c the capacity will fall away further and it becomes impossible to use the full capacity of the battery.

Keep your spare batteries in a pocket inside your coat or jacket until you need them. After use let the battery warm up before you charge it if you can. Charging a very cold battery will reduce the lifespan of the battery and it won’t fully charge. One top tip for shooting outside for extended periods is to get a cool box. Get some chemical hand warmers or electric rechargeable handwarmers and place them in the cool box with your batteries to keep them warm. If you don’t have hand warmers you can also use a hot water bottle.

If your lens has and snow or ice on it, don’t be tempted to breath or blow on the lens to blow the ice off.  Do not to breath on the lens when cleaning it as your warm breath will condense on the cold glass and freeze.  Also try to avoid breathing out close to the viewfinder.  When it is very cold and if you are warm in your nice thick winter clothes even standing close to the camera can lead to frost and ice building up on it.  Small amounts of sweat from your body will evaporate and this moisture will find its way to the camera, even if you are a few feet (1 or 2m) from it. If doing a timelapse of the Northern Lights, once the camera is running you should move away from the camera.

A small soft paint brush is good for keeping your lens clean as in very cold conditions you’ll simply be able to brush and snow or ice off. Otherwise a large lens cloth.

Your lens will get cold and in some conditions you will get frost on the front element. To help combat this wrap some insulating fabric around the body of the lens. Wrist sweat bands are quite good for this or an old sock with the toes cut off.  For time-lapse long sessions in very cold weather you might want to get a lens heater for the lens. These are normally 12 volt or USB powered and wrap around the lens. They don’t use lots of power but they do warm the lens just enough to keep the worst of the condensation, dew and frost off the lens. They are sometimes also called “dew heaters” and are sold by most good telescope suppliers.

Conventional plastic rain covers become brittle below about -15c and can even shatter like glass  below -20c. The clear plastic panels in other covers can also suffer the same fate. So use if you use a cover use one made out of fabric. Special insulated cold weather covers often called “polar bears” can be used and these often have pockets inside for chemical heat packs. These are well worth getting if you are going to be doing a lot of arctic shooting and will help keep the camera warm. As an alternative wrap the camera in a scarf or cut the sleeves of an old sweater to make a tube you can slide over the camera. If you have a sewing machine you could make a simple cover out of some fleece type material.

For DSLR’s and stills cameras a balaclava can be used to cover the camera body to provide some protection. However unheated covers don’t make a big difference when the camera is outside in very cold temperatures for extended periods, eventually the cold will get to it.

Plastics get brittle at low temperatures so be very gentle with anything plastic, especially things made from very hard, cheap plastic. The plastic Sony use appears to be pretty tough even at low temps. Wires and cables may become as rigid as a steel rod. Be gentle, bend then too much and the insulation may split and the cable break. I try to avoid bending any cable once it has become very cold.

Other considerations are tripods. If outside in very low temps for more than 30mins or so the grease in the tripod will become very thick and may even freeze, so your fluid damping will become either very stiff or freeze up all together. Contact your tripod manufacturer to see what temperatures their greases can be used over. Vinten and some of the other tripod companies can winterise the tripod and replace the normal grease with arctic grease. If you are unsure put your tripod head in your deep freeze at home for a few hours and see if it still works when you take it out.

I find that the best way to operate the camera is by wearing a pair of large top quality mittens (gloves are next to useless below -15c), Consider getting a pair of Army surplus arctic mittens, they are very cheap on ebay and from surplus stores and will normally have an additional “trigger finger”. This extra finger makes it easier to press the record button and things like that.  If you can get Swedish or Finnish military winter mittens, these are amongst the best. I wear a pair of thin “thinsulate” fleece gloves that will fit inside the mittens, i can then slip my hands in and out of the mittens to operate the camera. If you can get gloves with finger tips compatible with touch screens this will allow you to use any touch functions on a camera or your phone.

I keep a chemical hand warmer inside the mittens to warm my fingers back up after using the camera (or use heated mittens powered by a USB battery pack).

The hardest thing to keep warm is your feet. If you’ll be standing in snow or standing on ice then conventional hiking boots etc will not keep your feet warm. A Scandinavian trick if standing outside for long periods is to get some small twigs and tree branches to stand on and help insulate your feet from the cold ground. If your feet get cold then you are at risk of frostbite or frost nip. Invest in or hire some decent snow boots like Sorel’s or Baffin’s.  There is almost nothing worse than having ice cold feet when working. Don’t forget that if you do get cold, moving around, running on the spot etc will help get your circulation going help war you up. Also a flask with a hot drink is always welcome.  I have an arctic clothing guide here; Arctic Clothing Guide |

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Interestingly, there are many different factors to consider if you want to install an outdoor monitor in an area exposed to the elements.  Not only do outdoor monitors / outdoor signage need to be weather-proof, but useful in their new location. Our SRMW- and SXOBH- SeriesVideo on Monitor View-ability in Direct, Bright Sunlight

When you search for a waterproof high brightness LCD display or weatherproof touch screen, it is essential to make sure they are designed for the job. Check out our SRMW-24Z-SS 24 inch weatherproof screens.  For 2500 nits brightness, our SXOBH-55-4 and SXOBH-65-3 waterproof Sunlight Readable monitors will be the best outdoor monitor solution. Rated IP 68, they provide the highest level of protection of any outdoor  monitor on the market today. And all TRU-Vu monitors are TAA Compliant.

Ingress Protection Code (IP) is an internationally accepted standard.  It classifies and rates the degree of protection provided by enclosures. Protections include against intrusion and dust. Also included are accidental contact, and water. For example, this rating provides a standardized metric to compare different products’ performance with each other. The first number refers to protection against solids.  IP second number refers to protection against liquids.  Additionally, there may be an X in the rating. It means testing was not performed for that specific protection.  For a more detailed description onIP Ratingsfollow the link.  View our IP & NEMA Ratingsliterature for more information,  or watch our video: Demonstration.

We offer weatherproof touch screens and waterproof stainless steel monitors with a variety of resolutions and aspect ratios for your outdoor signage needs. For instance, 4:3 aspect ratio, 5:4 aspect ratio and 16:9 aspect ratio waterproof monitors are available.  Outdoor displays are used in amusement parks, auto racing, car wash facilities, and mass transit. They have also been deployed for advertising, digital signage, kiosks, sports stadiums and military systems. Outdoor monitors and weatherproof touch screens are a fast-growing segment in today’s outdoor display market. We offer only TAA-Compliant monitors.

TRU-Vu also offers a range of outdoor signage, and weatherproof touch screen and weatherproof stainless steel monitor options for industrial, commercial or residential use.  The SXN Series models are available with 55″ and 65″ screen sizes. With 4K resolution and 500 nits of brightness, video images look great in bright conditions.  Additionally, our SXOBH Series outdoor TV’s represent the top-of-the line performance in outdoor TV technology. They offer a fully-sealed IP 68 enclosure, 2,500 nits of brightness, optical bonding, and an operating temperature of -31° to +140°F. They are completely maintenance-free, with no fans, vents or filters to worry about. The front screen is protected by impact-resistant safety glass with an Anti-Reflective coating. It is rated IK 10, and can withstand a 60 mph fastball!! The SXOBH is available with 55″ and 65″ screens. Outdoor video images have never looked so good!

ok, here"s the deal. I"m taking a semester off university, and I"m moving all my stuff back to the parents. It"s a multi-day drive from where I am (Edmonton, AB) to where I"m going (Yellowknife, NT). So, with all that stuff in my car, I"d like to know if anything bad would happen if I just leave the monitor it in the car overnight. Of course, driving in this part of Canada means that temperatures at night can reach the -20 to -30 C range. So would this be a problem, or should I just bring it inside for the night?

Uh, the monitor might well break. -30 C is really pushing the storage temperature of an LCD monitor, and is significantly below the storage temperature of some models.

General rule of thumb I was always given is that it"s fine that these items are kept in cars etc over night (as they often are in trucks over night while in transit.) However, do not turn them on right away upon bringing them in. Being rather safe than sorry, I would allow them to sit unused for 24 hours to be sure that they are up to room temperature before use.

I forgot to mention that the advice I was given also assumes that they are in packaging or in such a state that things will not be banging up against these objects.

I"d be wary. I"ve had a couple of small LCD screens - Game Boys and the like - which became permanently discoloured as a result of exposure to the cold. LCDs are, well, L - unlike CRTs, there"s a physical substance there which can and will change state based on temperature. It"d probably be a good idea to take the screens inside.

When I moved from Yellowknife eight years ago, my monitor spent two weeks in a truck being driven all over God"s back acre in the middle of January. (Apparently it went from Yellowknife to Hay River to Peace River to *Fort McMurray* to Edmonton before it got here.) Two weeks at temperatures below -30, and quite often below -45, did not harm it. In fact, it only gave out this last summer when we had a power surge.

The low heater setting has a dual effect — it will lower the effect of sudden temperature changes, and will reduce the risk of condensation due to evaporating melt-water and sweat. Being from Edmonton, you should know this already :) If you keep your car too warm while you"re driving, or if you recycle air, then your breath and evaporations will frost the inside of your car. Long-time winter drivers manage to avoid frosty interiors, and thus there will be no condensation to worry about.

More importantly, do not recycle air. The biggest vapor source in the car is you. Set your car to heat the exterior air to a cab temperature of 10˚ max (the lower the better) and your monitor should be good — assuming that it is rated for shipping in -30˚. Be very careful carrying when it is cold because plastic is brittle at these temperatures, and you might crack the screen or housing

I would just bring it in though. My 22" LCD monitor is pretty expensive, and would not risk an overnight in a car at any time of the year. And cars with a full load tend to be targeted by thieves.

I have an LCD monitor that was lying completely unprotected on the ground (dirt, bugs, wet) for several months during the winter in Massachusetts (cold, snow, rain). Some idiot thieves had decided it was too heavy halfway home (or realized they had forgotten the power adapter back in the burgled house?) and just left it there.

After it was found, it sat inside for a while, until one day I tried to turn it on using the same power adapter the idiot thieves had left. It worked. After cleaning it up (dirt and bugs had left a huge mess all through the case), the only problems were some image discolorations where it looks like things hit the screen when it was thrown to the ground.

You really need to check the specs on your particular monitor for storage temperatures, after all some LCD devices are rated for _use_ down to -40 like factory in car dvd players.

You are fortunate that your device is not completely disabled but then again, by powering it on, you are accelerating the corrosion (oxydation) process internally. The spot on the display is caused by water. You will have to replace the screen assembly. You should back up your data while you can.

The water is inside the phone, on the logic board and under the shields, even under the IC"s. The rice is nowhere near where the water is. So while it may soak up some water vapour, the real problem is the corrosion that is taking place as the water evaporates. The longer you let a phone sit in rice, the more time you are giving corrosion to damage your logic board. The saltier or harder the water is, the more damage will occur.

Your best bet is to find a professional repair shop that does water damage repair. They have access to pro-level ultrasonic baths and specialized cleaners as well as the skills to troubleshoot your board.

Laptops are ideal for “at the moment” work, but they can still crack. Particular components of a laptop require special attention and care. It is essential to take good care of the laptop when you take it outdoors. Cold weather has various ways to damage your laptop.

For starters, it can disable the display, and shatter your crash on your hard drive. Warming the laptop too quickly can also lead to serious problems. Laptop owners often ask; how cold can a laptop tolerate? Well, that depends on the make and model.

Other than that, using your laptop in both cold and hot temperatures can have an effect on your laptop. But our main topic is cold. When the winter comes, it is important to consider the impact of cold on your laptop.

We often worry about the heat damaging our devices, but we pay little to no attention to the impacts of cold weather on our devices. The cold weather is just as dangerous as the warm weather. The cold weather can freeze your laptop and destroy its battery within minutes. In most cases, the screen even gets shattered because of the extreme cold.

Furthermore, there is no determining how much cold laptops can tolerate, it depends on the period. The effects of cold weather are just as same as hot weather on laptops. Other than the cold weather being a factor, laptops can also collapse because of carelessness.

Some people might not believe this, but laptops can freeze. The temperature zones really matter. Even laptop cases don’t help in protecting the screen and the internal components. Don’t ever use your laptop while it is kept inside a laptop case. The heat will have no place to go, and chances are, all your memory will be lost.

According to the LaptopsChamp, some particular devices can handle the extreme conditions of weather, but just to be clear and cautious, it is best that you take no chances with your laptop.

Some high-end technology laptops can withstand all kinds of temperature zones subtly, but some are built from average technology which is not always right to keep in the cold weather. However, if you still have to leave your laptop in the cold weather, it is recommended to use a laptop cover or a bag.

Wait a couple of minutes to let the laptop regain its safe temperature. Other than just the cold weather, you should also not leave your laptop in the hot weather. Basically, always have a laptop bag with you wherever you carry the laptop.

The answer is clear; your laptop will not be able to withstand a wide amount of cold. You should always be cautious and treat your laptop with full care.

Whenever you have to travel with your laptop, means when you need to carry it around, you must always put it inside a laptop case. The laptop case should be properly insulated and of high quality.

This way, the cold will be warded off and your laptop will stay as good as new. However, even with the case, it is possible for your laptop to gather moisture and this may lead to damage. That is why; it is best suggested to keep your laptop out of humid areas and damp.

It is always recommended to keep your laptop indoors where the temperature is controlled. Never leave your laptop inside your vehicle or in other places where there are chances of temperature damage. You can’t always rely on the carrying case to be of service, sometimes it doesn’t even work.

When it comes to the component of your laptop; it’s the screen. If the laptop is exposed to the cold for too long, it can freeze the screen, and it might even shatter when you boot the system. This is not just dangerous for the screen, but the pixels can also lose their integrity.

Whenever you are transferring your laptop to a warmer area after it has been in the cold, do not turn it on right away. Wait at least fifteen minutes for the laptop to reach a temperate zone.

Keep in mind; you shouldn’t warm your laptop up by yourself, because that is not appropriate. Using different warming devices will not be helpful; in fact, they will damage your laptop. If you warm up the laptop too quickly, it can shatter your screen and other parts of the laptop.

To avoid any damage, always shut your laptop entirely by turning off all applications and closing tabs. When you shut the laptop, the hard drive retains rest. On the other hand, if you put your laptop on sleep mode, the hard drive will still be running.

This unnecessary movement can cause the hard drive to malfunction, lose data, or get corrupted. If you leave your laptop in the cold by accident, as mentioned above a thousand times, do not boot it until it gets enough time to acclimate. Closing the lid without turning off the laptop is also dangerous.

Well, there is no amount of cold that your laptop can tolerate. Sure, a laptop is an easy investment, but how can you even have it when you can’t take care of it? Buying a laptop comes with great responsibility.

You should be able to take all the required steps needed to take special care of your laptop and make it long-lasting. Keep all of the tips mentioned above and tricks in mind when it comes to avoiding cold weather and managing the maintenance of your laptop. If you take care of the temperature zones, you can protect your laptop from damage.

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I"ve been using this computer for nearly 4 years and now it has this bubble under the touchscreen and is still expanding. Both the display and the touchscreen works fine and it doesn"t bother me much if I"m not watching videos in full screen.

Before possibly causing more damage, I"m here to ask, is it even possible to fix this without replacing the screen? Or should I just wait it to expand to the whole screen? Or is there anything I could do to stop it from expanding? I see nothing wrong in the affected area except for the black boundary, and the slightly darker color (maybe higher reflection) as shown in the picture. But does it have any other bad effects?

You’ve just built the perfect snowman: top hat, carrot nose, corncob pipe, the works. You whip your iPhone out to snap a photo for your Instagram feed, but the screen won"t come on. It was fully charged when you left the house, so what happened? Did the cold weather kill your phone?

While this scenario is bleak—the dead-as-a-brick phone, not your empty Instagram feed—there"s no reason to panic, says Matt McCormick, owner of Jet City Device Repair in Chicago and Seattle.

“In the winter, especially on iPhones, it’s easy to see your phone simply die if you’re standing out in freezing weather,” he says. “I personally had this happen a few years ago when I was hiking with some friends in Wisconsin. The cold weather made the phone unusable as long as I was outside.”

In fact, “bricked” phones aren’t as common as you may fear. In the traditional software sense, a phone “bricks” when “the hardware is perfectly fine but the software has the phone locked up and unusable,” McCormick says. The most common causes of that are when someone tries to jailbreak his or her phone—hack it to access its master files or install third party apps—or if someone stops an update partway through the process. Neither of those are weather dependent. (While a bug on the new iPhone X did cause the phone’s screen to freeze when exposed to cold weather, Apple has since released a software fix to solve the problem. Other times, catastrophic hardware failures can permanently brick phones.)

“However, we do frequently see phones that appear dead,” McCormick says. Some common causes of that include water damage, a broken or blocked charging port, and the occasional softwar