yamaha e bike lcd display free sample

The Display A was designed for a wide range of uses, from city to trail riding. It features a simplified and easily operable large liquid crystal display, with speed and battery capacity functions. High importance has been placed on visibility while riding in severe environmental conditions. Support mode can be changed at the press of a button as you ride.

yamaha e bike lcd display free sample

Upgrade your e-bike with the Yamaha E-Bike SideSwitch LCD Display A or replace a defective device. The Yamaha Display A is mounted on the left side of the handlebar and offers here the full overview of your e-bike. In addition to the assistance level and the battery status, the SideSwitch Display also shows you the current torque, remaining range and useful bike computer functions (speed, total, trip kilometers). But don"t just get all the important information about your e-bike, with the Yamaha LCD display you alsocontrol your e-bike. Switch between the support levels, use the push assistance or operate your lighting system. Compatible is the Yamaha Display A with PW-SE, PW-TE and PW-X systems from 2019.

Note: Yamaha Display A is not compatible with Yamaha "PW" (no additive) motor systems. If you have any uncertainties or questions about the product or compatibility, please feel free to contact our customer service.

yamaha e bike lcd display free sample

Featuring a handlebar mount for a clean-looking cockpit, Interface X is a minimalist and simple new LED communication unit designed to complement the PW-X3 control switch. Color-coded assist mode lights and battery capacity indicator displays help you easily take in information while staying focused on the trail.

The Display A controller and switch is designed for a wide range of riding conditions. Featuring a simple and ergonomic design, riders can quickly navigate through the functions using the easily operated LCD display.

Easy to use and easy to read during all types of riding with multi-color LED lights for a quick visual reference to show you which assist mode you are using and maintain your focus on the ride.

Yamaha 500Wh lithium-ion pack incorporates our latest technology in battery engineering. Our large-capacity cells last longer and maintains the recharging properties.

Our side-exiting design affords our frame design team the opportunity to manipulate the dimensions of the bicycle to stabilize the front wheel on steep hills and create greater handling control for active rider movements.

Locked in place during your ride, the battery is stealthy and quiet in its anti-vibration docking station. Removing the battery will reveal our integrated hand carry which makes it easy to transport away from the bike.

We know that storing a bicycle in the house may sometimes be challenging. When it is time to re-charge, you can keep the battery installed on the bicycle, or use your dimple-key to remove the battery from the dock and carry the battery pack to the charger for those times when the distance to a power source is limited for a complete bicycle.

It"s no simple feat to shift gears, adjust seat height, and change ride modes at roughly the same time. The new Automatic Support Mode for the PWseries ST selects the right amount of assist based on riding conditions. Whether you"re starting from a stop, accelerating, braking, riding on a level surface, or climbing a hill, you can leave ride mode changes to the system and focus on shifting and braking.

yamaha e bike lcd display free sample

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yamaha e bike lcd display free sample

The Giant RideControl app opens up the world of connectivity for your Giant E-Bike. The app allows you to connect your phone with your E-Bike, giving you the ability to keep your E-Bike up to date, to customize your motor setting and use your E-Bike display for navigation.

The Giant RideControl app lets you customize the motor settings the get the most out of your rides. Match the motor settings to your riding style. You can choose for more power and aggressive performance for a quick blast. Or turn it down a notch to make it more efficient for your long and epic adventures.

Use the RideControl app for turn-by-turn navigation specifically designed for the bike. If your E-Bike is equipped with a compatible RideControl EVO display you can synchronize turn by turn navigation to your display, so there is no need to keep your phone at hand.

yamaha e bike lcd display free sample

An e-bike is an investment. It might even be one of the best investments you can make. It can be considered an investment in your general finances, as it will allow you to cut down on many of the expenses associated with a traditional vehicle. It may be an investment in your health as it is a fun and convenient way to get exercise outdoors. It might even be an investment in your social life if it allows you to ride and connect with friends or family members.

Regardless of what you use your e-bike for, you should know the typical ebike life span. You should also know the general lifespan of the different components that make up your e-bike. With very little maintenance, a high-quality e-bike could easily last 3-5 years without incident. But you might be surprised to discover that with routine maintenance and care, your e-bike could last you 5-10 years.

By understanding the different parts, and how to properly maintain your e-bike, you can make sure you get the most out of your investment. E-bikes can be expensive, so continue reading to learn about the different components of your e-bike and how to get the most out of your purchase. No matter if you plan to upgrade, replace, or repair parts of your e-bike, this is the guide for you!

Most electric bike motors last between 3 to 10 years. As you can see, the motors can vary in life span but they are regarded as one of the longest service life parts. Because they are so integral to the operation of the bike, the motor can often be the root cause of needing to upgrade to a new electric bike.

Geared hub motors experience a lot of friction and more wear and tear than some mid-drive motors. This is because each time the motor case rotates slowly with the wheel, the internal gear inside the motor rotates many more times at a faster speed. Therefore, geared hub motors might have to be replaced between three thousand and ten thousand miles. High quality motors may last closer to the higher end of this range. Geared hub motors are not as expensive as mid-drive motors and can more easily be replaced. If you find you have replaced your geared hub motor 3-5 times already, you should consider buying a new e-bike. At that point, the cost and hassle of replacing the motor begin to outweigh the cost of a new bike.

Mid-drive motors, on the other hand, have additional sensors, components, and a unique design. This additional complexity allows for a much longer life than gear hub motors but does come with some drawbacks. One drawback is that mid-drive motors may overheat and may rust faster when wet and not wiped off. Therefore, it is important to keep your bike and motor components dry. The second drawback is mid-drive motors are harder to replace. If you find you have replaced your mid-drive motor two to three times, you should consider upgrading to a new electric bike.

Your tires will be the only contact your bike has with the ground. This fact alone makes them worth paying attention to. Most electric bicycle tires last 1-3 years. This means between about 1,000 miles and 3,000 miles of riding. Of course, with proper speed, clean terrain, and good PSI settings, your tires will last the longest.

Assuming the frame of your bike is in good shape and nothing has been damaged, replacing tires can be easy. You do not need to replace the entire e-bike if just the tires are having problems. Problems might include a flat tire, a slow leak, or a worn tread pattern that doesn’t grip the road anymore.

One of the most important e-bike components is the brakes. Pay close attention to the performance and suitability of your brakes often. We recommend doing a thorough inspection every few months. You will find that most brakes last 2-5 years, depending on usage. Higher-quality brakes, such as disc brakes, will last upwards of 6,000 miles, while cheaper rim brakes may only last half that distance.

An interesting fact about the design of most e-bikes is related to the brakes. Many e-bikes use integrated braking systems which connect the brakes to each other as well as the motor. This system stops the power to the motor when the brakes are applied. Because this system is interconnected, the brakes will continue working until they wear down alongside the motor. At this point, the entire system with the brakes and motor may need to be replaced which can be a difficult and expensive repair.

Batteries are always top of mind for e-bike riders because it is where the juice comes from! It is good to know that some companies, like Himiway, offer warrantieson their batteries for up to 2 years after purchase. This is good news in case something goes wrong with such an important and expensive component.

Many batteries used for e-bikes last between 3 and 5 years. It will depend on how often you charge it, the conditions you ride and store it in, as well as the brand of battery. Lastly, the type of battery makes a big difference. For example, lithium-ion batteries can be charged around 1,000 times, nickel batteries can be charged around 500 times, and lead batteries can be charged around 300 times.

Most e-bike chains will last 1-4 years. The lifespan is highly dependent on how well the chain is lubricated and taken care of. Two to three thousand miles is a common range for chains to last on an e-bike. Mid-drive motors may only get 1,000 miles before the chain needs to be replaced. This is because the wear rate of central drive motors on the chain is high. However, mid-drive motors are generally compatible with belt drives and may be able to provide up to 5,000 miles of riding without needing to be replaced.

We’ve written about how to fix a skipping bike chain as well as a guide on how to lubricate your bike chain. Check both articles out to extend the life of your e-bike chain!

The final component to discuss is the e-bike display. This is your view into the health of the bike. As an information console, the display will show you the speed you are traveling, the life of the battery remaining, the distance you’ve traveled, and other important metrics. The best tricks to keeping the display in working order are to keep it clean, dry, and free of physical damage such as dropping the bike.

There you have the average e-bike lifespan of various components and how to improve the lifespan of each through proper maintenance. As you shop for an e-bike, keep in mind the differences in parts quality and how long you expect to use your e-bike. A higher-priced e-bike may feel like more of an investment upfront, but the freedom from having to replace different parts often throughout the lifespan of the bike may be more than worth the price of the bike.

yamaha e bike lcd display free sample

To run the forums, host the website, and travel, I charge a universal service fee for my reviews. This review was sponsored by Yamaha. My goal is to be transparent and unbiased, this video and written review are not meant to be an endorsement of Yamaha products.

A sleek purist take on the commuter ebike from a company that is looking to use their household name and reputation to shape the ebike world at large. Today I am excited to finally review the Yamaha Cross Connect. Currently, Yamaha offers 4 ebikes, the race inspired Urban Rush, the mountain YDX Torc, the affordable Cross Core, and the commuter oriented Cross Connect. The Core and Connect dont just share the same Cross name, but they are essentially the same bike frame with the Connect having more options attached to make for friendly everyday use. Years before entering the scene, Yamaha did focused research on the North American ebike market looking at needs and wants as well as pulling data from their use in brand name bikes like Haibike, Giant, etc. If I could summarize the results, I would say they are going for a balance of price, performance, efficiency, and a purist feel. Sounds like a winning combination, so lets see if it lives up to the Yamaha reputation. While only having 1 frame style option, the bike comes in 2 colors: Polar White with Crimson accents or Storm Gray. It comes in 3 sizes, Small, Medium, and Large. For those looking to really dial in the right fit, I recommend checking out the sizing chart on Yamaha’s website as it really gets into detail on each and every measurement on the bike. The frames are a bit on the smaller size, so stem risers are a common aftermarket accessory. Its a lightweight bike overall, I weighed the small and came up with 49lbs. Being a commuter bike, the first thing you will likely notice is the fenders, rear rack, and integrated headlights. The included fenders are plastic and they are full length. The rear rack is sleek and integrated, rated for 25kg (55lbs) which is decent max load given the lightness of the bike. Looking at the integrated rear light, we notice it is plastic with 2 LEDs and is a decent position for visibility, but does leave it a little vulnerable as it sits sticking out of the end. The headlight is a nice aluminum alloy housed unit with internally routed wires, giving it a clean minimalist look. Working our way to the front of the bike, you see this nice SR SUNTOUR NCX pneumatic air fork. Its a lighter fork with a compression clicker which you can set so it doesn’t have to be full lock out. Adjustability like this means you can create some sort of cushion relative to the ground you’re on. I like adjust air pressure just for my weight and set up the clicks depending on the terrain I’m in. The head tube of the fork is tapered, so you could even add your own fork if you have a special one. For tires, Yamaha equipped these 28” CST E-Series Pro’s, which are ebike specific tires rated for the higher speeds. They have reflective sidewall stripes and protection level 6 puncture protection with decent air volume (although narrower). Being somewhat larger tires, they still provide for a lower attack angle which does well to soak up the area if it gets a little bumpy. Complimenting the tires are these nice lightweight rims made of double walled aluminum alloy. There are 32 14 gauge spoke rims with eyelets which is great because that means less of a possibility that they will crack. A quick release axle is present on both the front and the rear wheel, with the front being 15mm and the rear 12mm. Other features include ergonomic locking grips, active saddle, bottle cage bosses, integrated bell, kickstand positioned out of the way for reducing pedal lock, and a 30.9mm rigid seat post. The real big win on the bike his how the PW-SE interacts with the hydraulic brakes and the front and rear derailleurs for a smooth and efficient purist experience so lets dig into that some more.

Driving this e-bike is the compact, quiet, and reliable Yamaha PW SE mid-motor. All of the dealers that I’ve asked about this motor have said that it never comes back with warranty issues… And, that’s not surprising considering that Yamaha comes from the power sports industry and has been making internal combustion engines for decades. They make generators, motorcycles, snowmobiles, jet skis, and a whole host of other machines that get exposed to long term use in rigorous environments. The PW SE is their mid-level electric bike motor, and offers up to 70 Newton meters of torque. It has sensors to measure rear wheel speed, cadence, and torque. It is quite noticeable, yet very smooth at the same time. Its fluid and quiet at low pedal speeds, unlike other bikes that kind of jerk you along a bit. The power rating is 250 to ~500 watts, and the only drawback compared to higher specced PW-X drive systems is that it offers a more limited 110 RPM cadence support as opposed to 120. In short, you cannot pedal faster than 110 RPM and expect much motor assistance, it just doesn’t spin that quickly. For an urban cross bike like the Cross Connect, that’s not much of an issue. There’s a plastic shell built along the base of the bottom bracket to protect the motor from rock and log strikes if you do go off road. And, the motor and battery blend into the seat tube and downtube nicely, the ground clearance is pretty good and everything feels solid and secure. I like how most of the shifter, brake, and power cables are internally routed through the frame of this bike. You can pedal with the motor turned off, and it feels very efficient because there’s no drag from reduction gearing or magnets, but there isn’t a shift sensor here. If you don’t ease back a bit before changing gears, the motor could still be active and stress the chain, sprockets, and derailleur. The Yamaha PW SE motor takes a moment to spin down, but is otherwise very fluid and natural. They advertise a “zero cadence” start feature which aims to reduce knee and hip pressure down, you don’t have to push very hard or for very long before the motor kicks in. For mechanicals, we have two 9 speed Shimano Sora derailleurs one for each the front and the rear making a total of 18 gearing combinations on top of the motor assists levels. The rear is a 11-30 tooth while the front is a 34-46 tooth chainring. A bit of a curious set up, having two chainrings next to each other means they can kind of act as a guide, but still the absence of a legitimate chain cover means you can still catch your pants when riding, so make sure to use a Velcro strap or something. Additionally, have the two means added weight and you could be looking at more tuneups or maintenance. Hydraulic brakes are great and at first I was a little hesitant to get excited when I saw they are 160mm instead of 180mm, but both my test ride and experience from bike shops owners have told us that 160mm does indeed get the job done. Also, having a slightly smaller rotor means it may be easier to park at a crowded bike rack. Overall, this is a Class 1 ebike with a top speed of 20mph, so I think its a really great choice.

Powering this ebike is a 6.6lbs, 36v 13.6ah 489.6 watt hour Lithium-ion battery pack. It’s externally mounted to the downtube, flatter and longer than many competing products, and it tips in from the left side of the frame vs. going in vertically. There’s a lot to like about the Yamaha battery packs… the casing for the 400 and 500 watt hour packs is the same, so it’s backwards compatible if you own a second e-bike with the smaller pack. Maybe you get the Urban Rush model and Cross Connect and then share packs between friends or family? The pack is removable with lock and these unique neat looking little keys. There’s a sturdy, and wide, plastic loop at the top of these packs for secure mounting and transport. There’s even a sealed LED battery indicator built into the battery casing, so you can estimate how full it is without mounting to the bike or turning the bike on. And, the locking cylinder design seems sturdy. I like how it’s positioned up high on the mounting interface to reduce debris and dust exposure while riding. As it is currently designed, the charging interface is positioned low on the left, directly in the path of the left crank arm. This creates a point of vulnerability because the charging plug design is relatively thin and seemingly delicate, made of narrow hard plastic. Compared to Bosch, which uses a wider rubberized plug, I’m always concerned about stepping on the tip of the Yamaha charger tip and I definitely do not appreciate how long, bulky, and heavy the charger itself is… weighing in at 2.3lbs compared to Bosch at 1.6lbs. The fast four-amp output is much appreciated given the 500 watt hour battery, but this charger is one of the bulkiest on the market at this time and I haven’t seen a portable option from Yamaha yet, as I have from Bosch and Brose with some Haibike and Specialized models. In conclusion, this battery pack is great in many ways but definitely has some room for improvement, mostly with the bulky charger. It’s best to store any Lithium-ion battery in a cool, dry location, and avoid dropping and discharging below 20% to maximize stability and lifespan.

In my opinion, Yamaha has been a leader in display and control pad design for electric bicycles since their products began showing up in North America around 2016. Two particular older models come to mind: a large removable LCD unit with remote button pad that was easy to read but somewhat vulnerable to impact (this is what some of the Yamaha powered ebikes used to use). That display was mounted high atop the handlebar, near the center of the stem. And, there’s also a more compact fixed LED unit with limited readouts and integrated buttons (mounted atop the handlebar, near the left grip on some Haibike models). The LED control pad was usually included on value-priced models because it didn’t include as many sub-menus and didn’t offer Micro-USB charging as we see here. For the new PW-X powered electric bikes, Yamaha has drawn on both of these early control interface designs to create a durable but feature rich offering that maintains the Micro-USB port. I love that they kept this interface because it can be useful if you use a smartphone for GPS navigation, Strava, or music, as well as diagnostics and software updates. The PW-X user interface consists of a compact LCD screen, positionable on either side of the stem, and a remote button pad, usually attached near the left grip. This button pad was still very reachable for me during the test rides and would probably remain functional if a second set of triggers was added to control a front derailleur as is the case with the Haibike XDURO AllMtn 8.0. Buttons include a rubberized power button and light button on the display console along with plastic select, up, down, and walk mode buttons on the control pad. Once the display is turned on, the most basic interactions are to arrow up and down through Off, +ECO, ECO, STD, HIGH, and EXPW. Select allows you to navigate through different sub menus including odometer, trip meter, average speed, maximum speed, distance (range estimator), pedal cadence, time, and battery percentage. It was neat being able to test my pedal cadence on the fly, I really appreciate the range estimate to help gauge when to switch down assist levels in order to make it home without running out of power, and the 10-bar battery infographic and battery percentage drive this point even further. You can enable Bluetooth, disable the USB port, and even remove menus from that long list by holding the select button to get into a settings menu. And, there’s one final treat with this display. In addition to the blue-backlit LCD screen, there’s a colored light strip that matches up to the different assist levels. I think the idea here is to make it easy to glance down and know what level of assistance is enabled. It’s a great concept because the LCD itself is on the small side… but in practice, I found the LED readout to be difficult to make out in bright daylight. At night and in the woods it probably works great, and might even be distracting. And so, it’s also nice that you can completely disable the LED light strip back in the settings menu. All in all, this display does an excellent job. It mostly stays out of the way and is easy to interact with while pedaling, even without looking down because of the sloped clicky control pad design. It is not removable and cannot be swiveled to reduce glare, but the large plastic bezel looks tough and seems well protected inline with the stem. I love how clean and open the handlebar is, allowing plenty of room to attach a phone or light, the position of the display it self stays pretty protected by the stem and handlebars. Note that there is light button to activate the integrated lights as well. Overall, it is a bit of a busy cockpit with 3 finger brake levers, trigger shifters on the left and right for both derailleurs, and the display and controls.

In conclusion, I am really glad I got to get in-depth with the Cross Core. I really do think that Yamaha is on track to balance price, performance, efficiency, and a purist feel. Although Yamaha is a big name and really did their homework, there are still a couple of tradeoffs to consider if you want this to be a perfect fit for you. At this point, it may feel like nitpicking, but some of these concerns may be valid to you, so its worth mentioning. The plastic housing for the LED lights in the rear are in a precarious spot; some dealers have told me they have experienced broken lights out of the box because of the positioning getting bumped around. Additionally, please be careful when lifting the bike from the rack and take certain loading precautions. Also, the pedals are a little generic, somewhat narrow, and plastic. A small point to make, but this was likely to keep cost down and pass those savings on to consumers. I do worry about the maintenance that could come up with two derailleurs and I wish we saw some new extras like shift detection or a smaller, more portable charger, but these are all things that probably won’t hinder you enjoyment of the Cross Connect itself. As a matter of fact, there is just so much smoothness, efficiency, and cleanliness (love the beautiful internal cable routing) that it will likely be a standard bearer for a long time as to how to get everything in harmony. Its no small wonder as to why they use a tuning fork for their logo… this bike strikes fantastic balance for commuters. It has a considerate 3 year warranty backed by a 65 member and growing dealer network. The dealers get reimbursed for work done too, so any of them should be happy to help you with any needs should they arise. Considering the MSRP is $2,999, it seems like a fair price on par with the theme of balance.

As always, I welcome questions and feedback in the comment section below. Whether you own the bike, have taken a test ride, or are brand new to the space, my goal is to provide an objective and honest resource. You can also join the Yamaha Ebike forums and share your own photos, videos, and review updates to help others! Have fun out there, and ride safe :)

Has a nice set of 28” CST E-Series Pro’s, which are ebike specific tires rated for the higher speeds, including reflective sidewall stripes, and protection level 6 puncture

Some nice lightweight rims made of double walled aluminum alloy, 32 14 gauge spoke rims with eyelets which is great because that means less of a possibility that they will crack, a quick release axle for both the front and the rear wheel, with the front being 15mm and the rear 12mm

The drivetrain and powertrain play well together, there are two 9 speed Shimano Sora derailleurs (one for each the front and the rear) making a total of 18 gearing combinations on top of the motor assists levels

The PW-X display is positioned wonderfully by the stem and handlebars, keeping the already rugged aesthetic even more protected in case of a crash or debis

Most companies do a 1 or 2 year warranty, its nice to see a big name like Yamaha get competitive and offer a 3 year warranty, really standing behind the product

The plastic housing for the LED lights in the rear are in a vulnerable spot; some dealers have told me they have experienced broken lights out of the box because of the positioning getting bumped around, could also be an issue when lifting from the rack or loading

Two derailleurs mean added weight and could be more maintenance and tuneups, similarly, there is no chain cover (although the second ring can act as a chain guide), so be careful with pants

Yamaha’s standard battery charger is nice and quick because is is 4amps, but it is on the bulky side and has fixed long wires, making portability somewhat of an issue

The frame integrated wiring is beautiful, however, you do see more ebikes getting battery and mounts integrated into the frame as well, it would have been nice to see that from Yamaha, considering they are seen as a premium brand

yamaha e bike lcd display free sample

Intended to be a modern alternative to different transportation means, the e-bike must possess the capacity to do so. For many fans of the electric cycle, the 25km/h limit is insufficient in many cases: professional, sports or even leisure. Can the 25 km/h limit be exceeded and if so, how? I will try to answer these questions as clearly as possible, hoping that at the end of this article you will know everything there is to know about e-bike tuning.

Tuning an electric bicycle is removing the pedal assistance limit. This releases all the electrical power from its engine, so that the vehicle runs faster than before. A “normal” e-bike delivered in accordance with the current regulation, is equipped with a 250 watt motor and assists you up to 25 km/h. This limit is not due to the motor itself but to the manufacturer’s flange integrated in the motor.

The controller receives the data and compares it with the information natively stored in its system, namely the wheel circumference and the 25km/h limit. This way, he can know the speed engaged by the bike and automatically cuts the assistance when the 25km/h threshold is reached.

The legislation in Europe distinguishes 2 categories of e-bikes according to their initial maximum speed :Speed Bikes that have a maximum speed of 45km/h or more, and therefore normally do not require any tuning. These high-powered bicycles are legally assimilated to mopeds and can circulate on public roads. But they are entirely subject to the Highway Code, carrying all the conditions related to the use of this type of vehicle: helmet, license, registration, possession of a valid two-wheeler insurance…

e-bikes up to 25 km/h that can be tuned are called “approved” and not considered mopeds (as in Canada, for example, the speed limit with assistance is 32 km/h). Since they must have a motor of 250W maximum, they are legally considered as classic bicycles without a motor. They can also circulate on public roads without conditions. But for this E-Bike class, any modification made (later) to the engine or the assistance system is illegal. This leads to the withdrawal of its approval and therefore to its banning from circulation. Once these bikes are tuned, they will only have access to a private or specifically dedicated area, such as a mountain bike course in a fenced area for example.

If you decide to tune your approved e-bike and drive in a public environment, you should expect sanctions if the authorities find out. Of course, it will be difficult for police officers to distinguish an approved e-bike from one that is not. That said, apart from speed cameras, the occurrence of an accident will highlight everything.

But why tune his electric bike ? The answers are simple: because from time to time you need to make a faster journey (to avoid arriving late for work or an appointment) because your route is full of slopes and you need more power, or simply for the pleasure of speeding on two wheels !

Tuning does not push a motor to its limits. Rather, it is the clamping that limits the engine’s “natural” capabilities. Basically, tuning is about adjusting the electric assist system so that the engine runs “normally”. For that, there are several processes :Tuning occurs by “deceiving” the electronic controllerby providing it with distorted data. After the modification, the engine will deliver the power of assistance beyond 25 km/h. The controller will record a different speed level, a number that does not exceed the regulatory threshold. The displayed speed is no longer correct but is half the actual speed.

The flange is completely removed. All indicators are reliable and real, the speed with assistance is limited only by the maximum power that the engine can deliver.

However, it should be noted that tuning can technically vary from one engine to another. The operation to be performed on one E-Bike may not work for another. It is therefore essential to find out about your engine to choose the right tuning technique. If you opt for a tuning kit, you will see that it was necessary to develop a kit for each model of engine. Some engines are more difficult, even impossible to tune, like most hub systems (Panasonic on rear hub, Neodrive Xion, Go Swiss Drive, etc). The systems that you can easily adapt are those with pedal motors. These include Bosch, Brose, Bafang, Yamaha motors, 36V Panasonic central motors, etc. Anyway, there are many alternatives on the market to unlock your bike, so almost all E-Bike models can be modified.

Even if the methods you are going to discover are very simple and often accessible to the less gifted in electronics, tuning remains a delicate practice. By noting and practicing tuning techniques presented in this article, you do so at your own risk. You are solely responsible for any damage to your equipment or yourself.. You will have understood it, by giving only information, I discharge myself of any responsibility in relation to the personal use that you make of it. Before tuning your engine, note the risks to which you are exposed :Check that your bike can be tuned (derestricted).

If your electric bike allows it, it is a simple procedure that can be explained differently from one specialist to another. But everything turns on one major element: the speed sensor. This transmits the behavior of the bicycle (pedal, wheel) to the variator or controller, which dictates the necessary and maximum level of assistance that the motor must provide. So simply change the way this transmitter sends data to the controller. 2 methods are in the running :

Two elements make up this E-Bike specific measuring element: the sensor itself placed on one of the frame bases and a magnet placed on one of the spokes of the rear wheel. It is not only a question of counting the number of turns made by the magnet around the axis of the wheel. The calculation of the speed is mainly done by considering the circumference of the wheel, knowing that the larger the wheel, the faster the vehicle “advances”. By moving the device to another element than the wheel, you can have different numbers. In order for the controller to perceive a lower frequency of circulation of the magnet in front of the sensor, it is necessary to place these at another zone: for example in the environment of the pedals (the pedals turns slower than the wheel). As a result, the controller receives a reduced speed data compared to reality. Here are a few steps on how you will proceed:No need to disassemble wheels or electrical system

Give it a try to see if it works. If you do not get a result, correct the sensor location until you are satisfied. If this method does not convince you, there is another technique…

Although this method may seem simple, it is rarely used by E-Bike users. Basically, it’s about keeping the speedometer at zero: total tuning! (I invite you to watch this YouTube video which seems to quickly demonstrate the technique). The main problem with this method is knowing which wire to disconnect. Especially if it is a process that is difficult to reverse. So until we can confirm its effectiveness, knowing that there is very little feedback on this last process, we advise you to opt for the first method which consists in moving the elements of the sensor.

Let’s add that these two manual methods will not work on every assistance (especially on Bosch controllers produced after 2011 that integrate an anti-tuning software), so we recommend the most conventional and reliable solution: the tuning kit.

In this category, there is therefore no need to remove the housing, the device is simply attached to it or directly to the bicycle sensor. One of the most popular equipment of this kind these days is the Badass Box kit. To install it,

In this category, some models are pioneers in this field, for example the SX2 from Maintronic. As we went along, there was a multitude of them, like the Bikespeed RS, BPX Key, the Speed Box for Yamaha, the ASA E-SPEED B25 dedicated to the Bosch Active engine, the JUM-Ped (better known in the United States) and many others to discover. In this case, they are modules that most insiders commonly call “dongle”, since they are connected to the controller so as to bypass the collection system. They have been specially designed for many electric bicycles that cannot be easily tuned. As for their configuration, the dongles consist of a microcontroller and up to 4 connection wires. The way they are installed differs from one model to another, but they all require removal of the crankcase that houses the assistance system. The device is introduced into the system. The advantage of these ready-to-use tuning kits is that they can be deactivated at any time without any dismantling work. For the most part, they include a shutdown system enabling the assistance system to return to normal operation. Some are equipped with switches, for example the device is activated or deactivated by pressing the lighting button on the keypad (thus being linked to the lighting function of the E-Bike).

I tuned my Giant Ride Control E-Bike and took some pictures to show you the main steps. The longest is to remove the screws to access the cables. The connection is then ultra-easy. I did it with a Speed Up kit. The technical characteristics of the kit are not optimal because the display is divided by 2 and the tuning is permanent. Let’s say it’s perfect for the tutorial, because the internal installations are all very strongly similar:Presentation of my engine

This video has undoubtedly raised a number of questions. How is that possible? With 2 simple applications, to deregulate the information of its controller, and particularly physical data, to then tune the vehicle? The answer lies across the Atlantic, and the technology is indeed revolutionary. This is not quite the work of the application alone. It is the control of the action of a module with internal installation: the Blueped. This kit requires access to the engine (easy access in most cases) since it must be connected mainly with the speed sensor, controller and console. Once the kit is installed, you can download the dedicated application, available in the l’App Store but also from Google Play. Bluetooth pairing is required. Later, you will discover many synchronized parameters that you can modify at will, including the size of your wheels, etc.. Here is the PDF explanation. Note only that this module is officially compatible only with Yamaha systems.

The simplest tuning solution is undoubtedly the one which avoids the disassembling of the crankcase. These kits are compatible with many engine brands. The Badass Box, for example, is compatible with almost all the most popular brands of engines. Very simple to set up, they do not require any specific configuration. The other tuning kits are also very popular. Although it is necessary to access the engine by removing the protective cover, the installation takes only 5 minutes, I personally prefer this method. As far as efficiency and performance are concerned, the feedback is good. Here is a table showing some brands of tuning kits for electric bikes and their speed gain :Tuning kitMotor compatibilityMax. speed

An important point little discussed in the subjects which touch the derestriction of an e-bike, it is the possibility of an optimization of the mechanism in order to make derestriction reliable. Indeed, the consequences of a gain of power of the bicycle also differ on the level of the material. As much as battery wear, parts of the vehicle will also become more worn than ever. Here is a small list of modifications to make to avoid these inconveniences :Choose a large crankset (chainset):By tuning your e-bike, you will go faster and therefore your pedaling cadence will be higher. A crankset with a larger diameter (with more teeth) will therefore be more pleasant at high speed. It will also wear less quickly.

Review the fork structure:One of the main problems that can be encountered following a derestriction is the premature wear of the fork. This part is, in fact, more stressed when the bicycle often rides at high speed.

Engine power remains unchanged. If you have a 250 watt engine (36 volts, 7 amperes), once tuned, your motor will always deliver the same power and torque, even above 25 km/h. It’s your battery that will be more affected.

Indeed, it is another crucial element when it comes to tuning electric bikes. Enjoying pedaling assistance at high speeds requires just as much power, and therefore also more electrical energy. The autonomy of your initial battery will be reduced in the face of new engine demands. In short, by harnessing more of your engine’s power, you use more of the energy stored in your battery. The explanation with an encrypted example :Your motor: 250 Watts – 36 Volts – 7 Amperes

This means that with your battery you can use your motor continuously for 1 hour. Compared to a flanged bike, you are not always assisted (no more than 25 km/h), so you can ride longer. This reminds us that your battery life always depends on how we use it. A good pedal stroke accompanied by a light engine assistance at 35 km/h will allow you to drive longer than in town at 15 km/h or you spend your time to make stopped starts, assisted to block.

A tuned bicycle is classified as a moped. It is thus necessary to respect the regulations which apply for these vehicles (helmet, insurance, bicycle license…). By driving in a private domain or in a well supervised sports environment, there will be no problem. For those who venture to ride in public places, the easiest way is to disable its system (on some bikes this is possible via a button on your dashboard). In this case you are again in the category of bicycles and you avoid a fine in case of control.

The technical modifications to be made on a tuned e-bike are quite numerous. By taking the necessary care, and driving carefully, you can enjoy its tuning with complete serenity. At high speed the risk of accidents increases.

A tuned e-bike no longer carries a manufacturer’s warranty. How will the seller know? Tuned bicycles are becoming more and more common and retailers are able to detect the slightest trace of “tuning” on an electric two-wheeler, even if you have removed the tuning kit. The only manufacturer known for integrating native tuning functionality into its engine is EVO, with its 36 V and 48 V BH range. The manufacturer ensures that the action of his module does not affect his system, and that the warranty will always work if the owner does not use other kits.

Even if it is not mandatory, it is quite possible to insure your E-Bike given the cost it represents. In this case, avoid tuning it because the insurer will not compensate you in the event of an accident.

Do you derestrict your electric bike? You’ll certainly go faster, but don’t think you’re a super-zero! Drive carefully and equipped. Your safety and that of others are at stake.

In conclusion, I hope this article has been helpful. If you wish more information, do not hesitate to leave me a comment or contact me by email : contact@electricbiketuning.com

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What happened? The motor’s stopped assisting, you’ve got sweat pearling down your forehead and a mysterious error code flashing on your display. Panic mode ON! What’s your eMTB trying to tell you and what do you have to do to carry on riding?This article was updated with new E-MTB error codes on 25.05.2021

If you’ve spent any time on the internet, you’re familiar with “Error 404 – Page not found”. And eMTBs, too, can display error codes to warn you that something is wrong with the system. Errors occur, for example, when a sensor fails to calibrate correctly, when a connection is interrupted or when the software encounters an anomaly. Before we go deeper into the error codes of the individual systems, here are a few general tips on how to solve the most common problems on the fly:

Is the spoke magnet still there? Is it twisted? If the magnet is missing, the motor can’t determine the speed correctly and either switch into an emergency mode or stop working altogether

If these simple steps don’t do the trick, have a look at the error code and check what it means – it really helps! Below are some of the most common error codes and their solutions.

The Bosch Performance CX is one of the most widely used eMTB motors on the market. A glance at the comprehensive user manual of the Bosch ebike system lists 50 different error codes with their causes and solutions. We asked the people at Bosch eBike Systems to enlighten us on the most common error messages of their onboard computer.

Recharge the onboard computer. This is possible via the handlebar mount, where the onboard computer is charged from the ebike battery, or with the help of a mobile phone charger and the USB connection of the onboard computer.

The system has found an outdated or incompatible software version. Your Bosch ebike dealer can update the software using the Bosch DiagnosticTool. Your dealer uses online access to the Bosch ebike server to obtain the correct software.

Check the placement of the spoke magnet (8 to 14 mm distance is optimal, parallel to the line on the sensor). Restart the system if necessary. If the problem persists, contact your Bosch ebike dealer.

This mistake can appear as a misinterpretation of a misaligned or improperly fitted spoke magnet. Checks the position of the spoke magnet and restarts the system. If the problem persists, contact your Bosch ebike dealer.

Individual cells may be deep-discharged or even damaged after a long break. If the battery can no longer be charged, the only thing left to do is to replace it.

A gearbox error is an eShift problem. The drivetrain is not configured correctly, which can result in the drivetrain and the Bosch drive system not working together correctly. The Bosch system indicates the error and the adjustment or correction must be made on the respective drivetrain. Please refer to your drivetrain manufacturer’s operating instructions.

Fortunately, isolated error messages rarely occur in practice according to Bosch eBike Systems. Bosch eBike Systems have listed all error codes in the Kiox display user manual.

After the Bosch Performance CX, the Shimano EP8 is the most widely used motor on the market and successor to the popular Shimano STEPS E8000. Depending on the motor and software version, the same errors may use different codes. We asked Paul Lange & Co. OHG, Germany’s main Shimano distribution, about these motors’ most common error codes. Michael Wild, head of marketing/PR at Paul Lange, gave us his top 3, which also apply to the Shimano STEPS E8000, E7000, E6100 and E5000 motors: W010, W011 and W013. Our experience has been the same. With the Shimano EP8, the codes are different, but the problem is usually the same. Below, we’ve compiled a list of the most common error codes, including all codes that Shimano use for the same error.

Take your feet off the pedals, press the battery power switch and restart the system. Important: don’t put any pressure on the pedals while switching on and off. If that doesn’t help, try the tip below this table.

Check whether the speed sensor is installed correctly and the spoke magnet is in the correct position.The distance from the speed sensor (observe the markings) on the chainstay to the spoke magnet should be between 3 and 17 mm.

If the temperature range has been exceeded during use, leave the battery in a cool place out of direct sunlight until its internal temperature has dropped sufficiently. If you fall below the temperature range, store the battery indoors or any warm place until its internal temperature has risen to within the allowed range.

Error codes W013, W103, W106 and E012 often occur when the torque sensor is initialised, i.e. when you start your ebike with your foot on the pedal. While it was necessary to take your foot off the pedal when starting the Shimano STEPS E8000 motor, this should no longer be the case with the new Shimano EP8. However, the error may still occur when starting the ebike or while riding. If that happens, try the following steps:

If all of the previous steps don’t help, it might be an incorrectly adjusted chain tension causing the problem. Check and adjust the chain tension on your ebike.

If the previous steps still don’t help, try the following trick: clamp the ebike in a work stand or jack it up with a secure bike stand so that the rear wheel and cranks can spin freely. Switch the ebike off and on again. Spin the cranks until the ebike reaches a target speed between 10 and 20 km/h. Stop the cranks at one position for 2 seconds and then accelerate again and spin freely. Repeat these steps several times, stopping the cranks at the same position. If there is no improvement, repeat the procedure by stopping the cranks at a different position.

For the Levo and Kenevo models, Specialized rely on the Brose motor and along with developing their own software, which can be configured via the Mission Control app, they created a complete digital ecosystem around the motor. Since some Specialized models don’t have a display, system errors on models from 2019 and earlier are indicated by three red LEDs on the battery. If the three red LEDs are flashing, you’re prompted to connect the bike to the Mission Control app.

Specialized Turbo Levo models from 2019 and later feature the Turbo Connect Unit in the top tube. It reappropriates the bars of the battery level indicator to show error codes. If the top bar lights up red, an error has occurred in the system. There’s a possibility of six different combinations.

In the event of errors 1 to 4, simply switching the system off and on again can resolve the issue. You’ll find more information in the Mission Control app. If the problem persists, your last resort is to visit the dealer.

The Mission Control app has a built-in troubleshooting function. In other words: should your bike ever give you trouble, the system won’t just give you a fault diagnosis or error code, but also provide you with clear instructions on how to solve the problem on the trail and help you resume your ride. In some cases you’ll be able to solve the problem by yourself relatively quickly – sometimes just cleaning and drying the connector helps! This could save you a trip to the dealer and perhaps prevent you from having to leave your bike in the workshop for a few days. And of course, there will be some errors you won’t be able to fix yourself. In this case, we recommend contacting a specialist dealer straight away. The following examples, which are also live in the latest version of the Mission Control app, illustrate this.

At the same time we expanded the diagnostic function for our dealers. By connecting any Turbo-bike to the ‘Turbo Studio’ (our trade service platform), dealers will obtain the error codes and all the relevant instructions they need to eliminate the problem.

Brose motors can be found in eMTBs from Specialized, Rotwild, FANTIC, BULLS, FEDDZ and some other brands. In contrast to its competitors, Bosch and Shimano, Brose didn’t provide complete systems until summer 2019, which is why they didn’t have standardised error diagnostics. According to Volkmar Rollenbeck, ebike product manager at Brose, every brand used in-house solutions for the battery, software, control unit and display.

In summer 2019, Brose introduced a range of in-house displays and batteries to go with their popular Drive S, Drive S Mag and several other motors, which finally allow them to provide their own complete systems.

On older Rotwild eMTB models, a twisted spoke magnet was the most common source of error. The German brand has finally addressed the issue, integrating the speed sensor directly into the brake rotor of all new ROTWILD models.

Ole Wittrock, head of Marketing & Communication at ROTWILD, points out one more important aspect: “For example, if you’re overusing your brakes on long challenging descents, the small dust particles released from your brake pads will cover the speed sensor and stop it from working properly, causing inconsistent power delivery and thus a stuttering motor”. In this case, cleaning the sensor with a cloth will get you out of trouble.

Stephan Koch, one of ROTWILD’s sales representatives adds: “Plug-in couplings on the display may get torn out when crashing. If the bike is dead, it is worth checking these before contacting your dealer for further diagnosis”

Japanese manufacturer Yamaha is considered a pioneer of ebike motors and has been mass-producing them since 1993. Giant has been building its eMTBs with Yamaha motors since 2013. In addition to Bosch motors, Haibike has been relying on Yamaha systems since 2014. German performance manufacturer R RAYMON, who entered the bike market recently, also rely on Yamaha motors.

The situation with Yamaha is similar to that of Brose since bike manufacturers are free to outfit their eMTB with their own display, battery, etc.. Since the bike manufacturer doesn’t have to use the complete Yamaha system, there are no uniform error codes for eMTBs with Yamaha motors. To make things a bit easier, we’ve compiled a list with all common error combinations.

On Giant eMTBs, error codes are indicated by flashing battery indicators on the display. In the event of an error, all battery indicators will flash three times. Then one indicator continues to flash while all other battery indicators are off. The continuously flashing indicator indicates the problem. Marc Kessing, Bike Media Relations at Giant Germany, informed us that faults on Giant eMTBs and thus the display of error codes would occur very rarely. If an error code can’t be corrected immediately after it has been displayed, the bike should be taken to a dealer who can read out the exact error code via a Bluetooth connection to the bike.

With the GIANT Trance E+, Stance E+, Reign E+ and the brand new Trance X E+ models, Giant deliberately ditched the large display and swapped it with the new RideControl ONE remote. The compact remote control allows you to shift between riding modes at the push of a button. LEDs provide all relevant info about support levels and battery charge status. A separate LED, which is located between the on/off button and the light button, lights up to indicate an error. The RideControl app allows you to identify the error and also gives you helpful troubleshooting-advice.

Michael Albrecht, service manager at the Winora Group, also identifies the twisted spoke magnet on the rear wheel as the most common fault. A twisted spoke magnet on the Yamaha PW-X can be seen on the display as follows:

If the display shows this error message, you should check the position of your spoke magnet. If the error message still persists with the magnet in the right position, get your dealer to check the wiring and plug connection. While the motor will carry on working and follow the programmed transmission ratios in the event of a fault, it won’t work at full capacity nor display the current speed.

Michael explains that Yamaha’s motor is very reliable and faults in the motor itself are much less frequent. When error codes 31 to 37 are displayed, the error affects the torque sensor. In these cases, you should visit your nearest Winora-/Haibike dealer – often these errors are easy to erase! Error codes 38 and 39 indicate a faulty crank sensor. Unless you’ve established your problem is caused by a dirty or misaligned magnet, Michael recommends referring to a trusted dealer, who can identify the error code with a Yamaha diagnostic tool and erase the error.

As described on the display, the magnet should be put back to its correct position. If the position of the magnet should already be correct, your bikeshop needs to check all cables and connections.

If the system doesn’t detect any errors, it can return to normal operation after being restarted. Otherwise, the torque sensor or controller must be replaced.

The TQ HPR 120S is somewhat of a new yet old friend in the motor market. While it has has been used on M1 models for some time, it’s thanks to Haibike’s FLYON range that the small Bavarian company became popular in the eMTB world. German brand Storck is also planning to use the powerful TQ HPR 120S motor on their E:drenic GTQ bike.

TQ-Drives E-Mobility also acts as a complete system provider and offers the Marquardt display, which you can find on eBikes such as BULLS, FANTIC or ROTWILD. According to Daniel Theil, Product Manager E-Mobility at TQ-E-Mobility, the most common error codes for this display are the following.

single-spoke magnet: Check correct alignment and distance of spoke magnet to sensor (optimum distance: 14 – 20 mm). Haibike Speed Disc: Check distance between sensor and Speed Disc (optimum distance 0.7 – 1.4 mm).

If you’re unable to solve your issues with TQ’s troubleshooting guide, you’re better off contacting an official dealer – says Daniel Theil. These are trained professionals who will use specific diagnostic software to identify errors and analyse your bike’s fault memory.

According to Ingo Beutner, Head of Engineering at Haibike, the Haibike FLYON shows both the error code and its solution. The most common n. 74 error code, for example, concerns the torque sensor and appears when a rider turns on the system with a foot on the pedal, which stops the sensor from calibrating properly. If you take your foot off the pedal when restarting the system, the error will be rectified straight away. Occasionally, you could come across errors with the speed sensor too, but you can rectify these by restarting and thus recalibrating the motor. According to Ingo, restarting the motor will actually address most of the errors. More complicated issues, which usually require the intervention of a dealer, are indicated by a code and written into the internal error memory of the FLYON system. When a dealer connects your bike to the service software, this will offer a detailed overview of all current errors and at the same time provide instructions to help the mechanic fix the bug.

Swiss ebike pioneer FLYER is one of the few manufacturers to use Panasonic motors. We asked Anja Knaus, Head of Corporate Communications, to tell us about the most common error messages that occur with this motor.

That’s it! Now that you know about all most common error codes you’ll be able to solve minor problems quickly and easily. For a full list of error codes, refer to your owner’s manual. It is good practice to take a picture of all codes with your smartphone, so you can recall them at any time… because there’s nothing more irritating than being stuck in the middle of nowhere, not knowing how to bring your motor back to life. If you still can’t find solve the problem by yourself, you’ll have to contact your trusted dealer. We wish you a peaceful, trouble-free ride!

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Yahama eBike Systems come in two different models and can be found on a range of electric mountain bikes giving different performance and price points to suit everyone!

Both Yamaha eBike systems come with 5 power modes to choose from that you can change as you ride, giving the perfect assistance when you need it. They also feature a walk assist mode making it easier to push your bike uphill when you need it: OFF: Allows you to ride without power assist while switch functions remain enabled.

The Yamaha PW series is designed around being "smooth and powerful". While providing a smooth electric-assist ride, the Yamaha systems are equipped with powerful support which gives a natural assist feel, even in the highest speed range.  This is thanks to the "triple sensor system" that has been part of Yamaha"s development philosophy from the start. The three sensors refer to: A torque sensor that detects pedalling power

There are two types of main switch available for the Yamaha PW Series unit; the LED 3-way digital display main switch and the LCD multi function Drive Controller.

The LCD multi function Drive Controller is designed for all forms of riding. The newly adopted vertical display makes information easily visible. Attachment is also ergonomically designed, with the display on the centre of the handle bars and switches adjacent to the hands. The display can be controlled without taking your hands off the handle bars, resulting in a safer ride, and smoother control of the switch. LCD multi function Drive Controller

The PW-X System is the top end Yamaha eBike system and can be found on higher end electric mountain bikes. “Being at one with the machine” is Yamaha’s philosophy of development when making this unit making ride and machine truly unite as one. Compact and lightweight: Dropping 380g changes the ride. A light weight, compact drive unit

Yamaha have recently updated the interface of their PW-X display unit so it’s simple, tough and located neatly on the bars so you can concentrate on just the ride. In the operation system, Yamaha have introduced a new, ergonomic switch that maintains high operability during any type of riding. This is married to the LED Assist Mode Indicator that enables you to check the selected mode instantly even during hard riding.

yamaha e bike lcd display free sample

The MH protective cover for the Yamaha Type-A display saves your e-bike board computer from scratches, abrasion, dirt and road splash. Your device can still be fully operated with it.

The transparent, flexible TPU cover is precisely fitting and can be attached to your Type-A display quickly to protect your board computer on the bike and in your hand or trouser pocket as well, if you remove it from the mount, for example when shopping.

yamaha e bike lcd display free sample

Advanced eBike Power The rear hub is equipped with an advanced pedal-assist e-motor that amplifies your every pedal stroke making your ride a