lcd screen too bright in stock

Hey i just got a new rig and first time using an LCD monitor, im having a ton of problems i get daily headaches my eyes get dry way to fast constantly being unconformable, never had this problem with other monitors even being on the computer for the whole day.

Those might as well have been the days of horses and buggies. Today? We have 8K resolution, if you want it. Flatscreen liquid crystal display (LCD) and organic light-emitting diode (OLED) displays can be lifted by one person, and they’re easy to tile. We now have flexible displays that can wrap around surfaces. LCD TVs and monitors are dirt cheap now, selling for 1/20th of early-2000s prices—and they’re twice the size.

Wondering about brightness? Well, how does 3,000 candelas per square meter (cd/m2) from LEDs strike you? On a 120-inch, 16:10 screen, that would be the equivalent of 135,000 lumens from a projector! Even half that brightness would require a 67,500-lumen projector for the same size screen. Although that’s impractical for projection, it’s just another day’s work for LED displays.

Several companies are now selling “outdoor” LCD screens with brightness ratings from 700cd/m2 to 800cd/m2. High-dynamic-range (HDR) ultra-HD TVs easily exceed 1,000cd/m2 small-area/peak luminance. Prototype “micro” LED displays have been shown with brightness specifications in the tens of thousands of candelas per square meter.

You get the point. When it comes to displays, brightness isn’t an issue anymore. But anyone who has walked through Times Square or strolled the Las Vegas Strip at night could tell you that. On some city blocks, it almost feels as though it’s daytime with all those photons showering down on us. And, under normal daylight, with light readings ranging from 10,000cd/m2 to 100,000cd/m2, you can still read those signs without much effort.

Even cinemas are experiencing a revolution with respect to screen luminance. Two years ago, I described a trip to Richmond TX to see the second Samsung Onyx LED 4K cinema screen in operation. (The first is in Chatsworth CA.) I thought to bring along a spot meter, and I took measurements of the screen, as well as the chairs, walls and clothing articles of my fellow viewers when high-luminance content was being shown. With white backgrounds onscreen, those readings hit 52 foot-lamberts (fL), or 178cd/m2. At that point, the theater was lit up more brightly than when all the house lights were turned on.

Yes, we’ve finally reached a point in time when displays are bright enough—indeed, in some cases, they can be too bright. OLED TVs—I own one of them—are often derided by LCD TV brands for “not being bright enough,” as they have a maximum small-area brightness level of 700cd/m2. Yet, having taken some measurements with my spot meter, I found that the average luminance levels for TV programs with my 55-inch OLED TV in ISF Day mode ranged from 70cd/m2 to 150cd/m2. And those levels were plenty bright enough to view with indirect daylight illuminating the room, and they were very bright at night.

Even in HDR mode, small-area/peak luminance exceeded 600cd/m2—no complaints there! TV programs with sustained luminance levels exceeding 170cd/m2 (50fL) can seem too bright in a semi-darkened room. With the lights off, those levels are high enough to fully light up the viewing space, and high luminance content is difficult to watch for sustained periods under those conditions.

My proposal in the HPA presentation was to change our way of thinking on two counts: 1) stop worrying about “brightness”; 2) instead, focus on contrast-ratio targets. I’ve taught several classes on display setup over the years, and I’ve adopted some useful contrast-ratio guidelines from other industry experts. Those would be 15:1 for classroom and meeting-room presentations, 50:1 for analytical decision-making, and 80:1 and up for true immersive viewing. Those ratios are calculated by measuring the ratio between screen luminance and room ambient-light levels.

Intriguingly, in my travels and measurements, I’ve found that it’s often difficult to attain a screen/ambient contrast ratio exceeding 50:1, especially with high-luminance content. In my own home theater, a circa-2007 full-HD LCD projector, fully calibrated, puts out a measly 330 lumens onto a 92-inch, 1.0-gain screen. But, at that light level, other objects in the room reflect light and become visible, even with a 51:1 contrast ratio. Even the walls, which are painted a dark, neutral gray (Sherwin-Williams’ “Gray Matters” color), are lighting up. Gain screens (remember those?) could mitigate the light-scattering problem, but the tradeoff is accepting narrower viewing angles.

This situation was observed in the Richmond TX Onyx theater demonstration. With bright screen content measuring peak levels of 170cd/m2, you could easily read a book or newspaper, navigate your way to and from the snack bar, and see the sound-absorbing tile patterns on the wall. White and light-colored shirts absolutely popped out, as did white athletic shoes. You’d have to drape everything—walls, floor, chairs and even patrons—in light-absorbing black stipple velvet to realize a significant improvement in the ambient contrast ratio.

Outdoors on the Strip, or in an airport or at a mall, screens are intentionally super bright to catch your eye. They’re competing with other screens and lighting, and you usually give them a brief glance. In a movie theater, however, you shouldn’t be seeing and watching anything but the theater screen. (There are exceptions, of course: an occasional glance at your snack, drink or meal; a turn to your companion to make a snide comment; a glare as if to say, “Stop looking at your @#$%^ phone!”)

I still have most of the “Angles of View” collection. In one installment (“By Different Lights—Contrasting Among Brightness Levels,” pp. 17-18), Milliken stated, “In an earlier article [Vol. IV, #11], we observed that 50 was a kind of upper-threshold number for brightness and that, if a screen were, in fact, to exhibit a luminance level of 50 foot-lamberts, it might actually be too bright for all but unusual environments.”

How does the song go?My future’s so bright I need to wear shadesI"ve got a job waiting for my graduationFifty thou a year, buys a lot of . . . coffee??????

This article is limited to monochrome since they perform better in direct sunlight and can still be read when the back light is off. Also, the tooling cost, if necessary, is much lower.

Swap out the transflective polarizer with a transmissive polarizer. This increases the brightness without increasing the amount of power necessary or decreasing the half-life of the LEDs. The one downside is the display will be a bit more difficult to read when the back light is off, but it is still readable.

Every monochrome display with a LED back light contains a current limiting resistor. The lower the resistor value, the higher the current draw. Hence the brighter the back light. The down side is the back light draws more power (not always good for battery powered products) and it reduces the half-life of the LED back light.

I removed the potentiometer and added 1,330K resistance to pin 3 on the LCD. The white lettering now stands out on its own against the blue background. Very nice display and easy on the eyes.

At midnight, when your bedroom is pitch black, a text comes through that you just can’t resist. So you grab your phone, unlock the screen…and screech in horror as the blazing light sears your eyes. Sometimes, even the lowest brightness setting is too dang vivid. Here’s how to change it.

Most phones have a built-in Night Mode, but this doesn’t actually change the brightness. Instead, it adjusts the color temperature: Whites appear “redder” at night, blocking the blue light that can wreck your sleep. This is great for using your phone in the evening, but won’t soothe the pain of a too-bright screen in a too-dark room.

For that, you’ll need a different set of tools. While you can’t technically dim the backlight lower than the device allows, these software solutions add a black filter over the image on your phone. This gives it the illusion of lower brightness—and saves your eyeballs in the process.

Open the Settings app on your phone and head to General > Accessibility > Display Accommodations. At the bottom of this screen, you’ll see an option to Reduce White Point. Turn this on and adjust the slider until the screen brightness suits your preferences. Counterintuitively, the higher you make the percentage, the lower the brightness will seem.

If you head back to the main Accessibility menu, you can create a shortcut to turn this on and off a little more quickly. Scroll down to Accessibility Shortcut option and tap it. Hit Reduce White Point so a checkmark appears. From now on, you can triple-click the home button to enable the feature, which will dim your phone when it’s just too bright. While you’re in this menu, you can also check some of the other options. If you do so, then triple-clicking the home button will pull up a menu with all the Accessibility options you’ve assigned to that shortcut.

Every Android phone is a little different, but most lack a built-in white point setting like the iPhone’s. Instead, you’ll need to download a third-party app that can overlay an image on the screen—in this case, a transparent black filter that gives the appearance of lower brightness. There are plenty of apps with this feature, but we like Screen Filter for its simplicity.

Just open the app, set the filter brightness—the lower the slider, the dimmer the screen will become—and tap the Enable Screen Filter button. Your screen should immediately appear dimmer. If you have Android Oreo or above, you’ll notice that Screen Filter can dim everything except for the notifications drawer, but in my experience, that doesn’t make a huge difference.

There are a few small catches here. First of all, if you accidentally lower the screen brightness so far that you get a black screen, you’ll have a hard time finding the settings to undo that. In fact, you may have to reboot your phone by holding the power button until it resets. After a reboot, Screen Filter should be disabled, so you can go back and adjust its settings accordingly.

Second, since Screen Filter is using Android’s built-in overlay permissions, you may not be able to install some apps or use certain features while the app remains active. If you ever see an Install button that’s greyed out, try disabling Screen Filter to see if that helps.

If you want quicker access to Screen Filter, you can press and hold on the home screen to add its widget. You can also make your phone automatically enable Screen Filter’s dimmer settings at nighttime, by using the popular Tasker app. Just don’t forget to get some sleep, okay?

For the video display developer LCD panels are available in many sizes and resolutions, they are also available with many choices of maximum brightness. The following considers the topic of LCD panel brightness, the choices, the methods for adjusting brightness and some brightness adjustment scenarios.

LCD panels are generally rated as to their maximum brightness level which is expressed in Nits, it is equal to Candela/sqm (cd/m2), and this will be at a particular color temperature as noted in the specification, usually 10,000 K. In terms of a practical understanding, the following is a rough guide:

Outdoor displays range from a low end of 700 nits to typically 1,000 or 1,500nits and up with 2,000~2,500nits and even up to 5,000nits seen with some models. This may include standard LCD panels, custom LCD panels as well as custom cut LCD panels.

Virtually all LCD panels have a LED backlight these days, these are powered by an LED driver board. Brightness control via the driver board will be by one of two methods:

PWM (Pulse Width Modulation): This varies the duty cycle of the backlight “on time” – it is predominant in modern LCD panel LED backlight designs to enable support for digital brightness controls.

Analog: Uses a simple variable voltage to adjust brightness, for example this might be a dial or slider type potentiometer / variable resistor. To see how to enable analog backlight adjustment visit: https://www.digitalview.com/blog/brightness-adjustment/

One of the advantages of LED for the backlight is the range of adjustment that is possible, however it is important to note that the range varies significantly from model to model. Some industrial panels can be turned to very low light levels making them suitable for use in special environments such as at night. Lower cost panels limit the range of brightness to what might be required for typical usage, whereas panels with full range dimming from full off to full on require more complex backlight drivers.

Backlight lifetime: Many LCD panels have a backlight lifetime rating of 50,000 hours (typically measured to half brightness), this can be extended by running the LED backlight at a lower brightness level. Some panels may only offer 30,000 hours as a lower cost solution while other panels may offer up to 100,000 hours for high end applications.

An LCD panel backlight may be constructed so the LED’s are mounted directly behind a light guide diffuser, or they may be mounted along one or more edges of the light guide.

Active backlight: This is a function of some LCD panel backlights to automatically adjust the backlight brightness in response to the image. For more advanced systems there is an LED array making up the LED backlight, this adjusts the brightness in areas localized to the image being shown. This can greatly enhance the brightness across the display and is being used primarily with video, for example on consumer TV sets. It is not useful to all image types, for example a spreadsheet or content like maps or data is not likely to benefit.

Local dimming: Some LCD panels with direct LED may support local dimming so the LED’s are dimmed in response to the image close to them. This will not be at the same resolution as the LCD panel itself but will help greater contrast over the display by enhancing the brightness in bright areas of the image and darkening the image in dark parts of the image.

For the LCD monitor manufacturer it is important to consider that any covering over the LCD panel will reduce the brightness. For example the protective glass over a digital signage display, or a touch screen, or a semi-silvered mirror. So if a specific brightness is required the measurement should be taken with these in place.

There are various relatively low cost brightness meters available, typically in the couple of hundred dollars range. It is difficult to comment on the accuracy of these but we have found them to be within 5% of each other, though more importantly they do appear to be quite consistent in measurement so good for measurement comparisons. For more accurate measurement there are light meters from companies such as Minolta that can be calibrated, the cost may run into several thousand dollars.

Examples of light meters costing a few hundred dollars include SpyderX by Datacolor (needs a PC), a handheld meter is the SM208 by Sanpometer (search SM208 meter). Note: Many light meters, including smartphone apps, will be meters used for photography and not give readings in nits (or candelas). LCD panel specifications are typically measured using nits.

PWM and Analog: Most Digital View LCD controllers support PWM and Analog as a method for adjusting the backlight brightness level (this is noted in the column headed “Other” on the controller board summary table: https://www.digitalview.com/controllers/lcd-controllers-home.html. Also see https://www.digitalview.com/blog/brightness-adjustment/ for a guide to using a dial or slider type variable resistor to adjust the backlight.

Ambient light sensor: The backlight is adjusted for brightness or powered off depending on ambient light conditions. This uses a light sensor attached to the LCD controller board, see https://www.digitalview.com/blog/light-sensor-app-note/ for more details.

The specifics of the backlight control are documented separately for each LCD controller model (product summary here) in the product manual available for download on the product page.

Note: There are two ways to adjust the perceived brightness of a LCD panel or LCD monitor, the backlight and the black-level. Very often, particularly in the past, the monitor brightness setting adjusted the black-level, this adjusts the LCD but not the backlight.

Color, color temperature etc: In addition to adjusting the brightness other settings may be adjusted as well. For example the color temperature or for example a switch to green monochrome for night vision.

Night-safe lighting (update) : Dual-rail backlights can also be supported. These special backlight enable normal brightness and extreme low level brightness with custom night-safe lighting. Contact us for details.

Note: We have a blog on methods for implementing an ambient light sensor with Digital View LCD controller boards to automatically adjust the backlight or system power, see: Ambient Light Sensor

Update March 2019: Most of the above remains unchanged except for the increased availability of high bright LCD panels of around the 1,000 nit to 2,500 nit range. AUO for example has a number of large size LCD panels with 1,500 nit brightness for the digital signage market. Tianma has panels under 20″ with 1,000 nit to 1,500 nit brightness for various outdoor applications.

The other change is that high bright panels are now increasing edge-lit, this makes the panels thinner and these panels tend to use less power than the previous models. One of the benefits for monitor designers is easier heat management and reduced overall display system costs.

Select the Networkicon on the right side of the taskbar, and then move the Brightnessslider to adjust the brightness. (If the slider isn"t there, see the Notes section below.)

Some PCs can let Windows automatically adjust screen brightness based on the current lighting conditions. To find out if your PC supports this, select  Settings >System>Display. Select Brightness, look for theChange brightness automatically when lighting changes check box, and then select it to use this feature. This automatic setting helps make sure your screen is readable wherever you go. Even if you use it, you can still move theBrightness slider to fine-tune the brightness level for a built-in display.

You might also see another check box displayed: Help improve battery by optimizing the content shown and brightness. Some Windows PCs can automatically adjust the screen brightness and contrast based on content that’s displayed on your built-in screen. For more info, see Adaptive brightness and contrast in Windows.

You might not see the Brightness slider on desktop PCs that have an external monitor. To change the brightness on an external monitor, use the buttons on it.

Some Windows 11 PCs can automatically adjust the screen brightness and contrast based on content that’s displayed on your built-in screen. For example, if you’re watching a video that has a dark scene, followed by a brighter scene (for example, one that shows a bright sunny day), the brightness and contrast may change. This is normal.

Content adaptive brightness control provides ideal brightness and contrast levels, while saving power and providing longer battery life at the same time. If these sudden brightness changes are distracting, or if you work in photo and video apps where color accuracy is important to you, you can turn this off any time. When you turn it off, it can result in shorter battery life.

In Display settings, select Brightness, then clear the Help improve battery by optimizing the content shown and brightness check box. You can select the check box to turn this back on any time.

Some Windows PCs can also adjust the screen brightness automatically based on the light around you. For more info, see Change screen brightness in Windows.

On iPhone, you can make your screen dimmer or brighter (dimming the screen extends battery life). You can also adjust the screen brightness and color manually or automatically with Dark Mode, True Tone, and Night Shift.

Schedule Night Shift to shift the colors in your display to the warmer end of the spectrum at night and make viewing the screen easier on your eyes.Go to Settings

um? I don"t mean to sound arrogant, but the minimum brightness of the 5T is the lowest I have EVER seen on any phone. the AMOLED panel allows for this, there is physically possible way for a LCD panel to be "darker" because at some point when turning down the brightness, the backlight...

Yes, sure, I set it to lowest without automatic brightness, but I would like to have an even darker option. I"m sure screen itself can do it, because battery saver does it and all these apps with dark overlay can do it, but overlay can"t darken navigation buttons.

Intel Display Power Saving Technology (DSPT) is a power-saving feature in Intel’s latest version of mobile graphics chips. These graphics chips reducing power consumption on the computer by altering the brightness and contrast of the display.

Intel DPST controls the LCD backlight, by reducing the backlight as needed they can save power. This can be important on mobile computers running off the battery. The aim is to automatically reduce the backlight brightness while maintaining good visuals on-screen. It analyzes the image to be shown, and it uses equations to change the chroma value and reduce the brightness of the backlight simultaneously. This means you should not see any distortion to the image on-screen. Intel says that 70% of the power that the backlight uses when watching media is saved.