ender 3 lcd screen quotation

This is a Genuine Creality LCD screen for their machines that use this type of LCD. See below for a compatibility list. 2 Cables are included with the LCD. Creality LCD knob is included as well. This LCD is the latest version with the EXP1, EXP2, and EXP3 headers.

3 Months Warranty -Our warranty covers any and all defects with the product. If your product fails or has problems within the warranty period you can contact our support team by using the Contact Us link.

Damage/Failure due to improper installation, improper usage, failure resulting from an issue with the machine the product is installed on, 3rd party products connected to our product, and/or modification of the product are not covered under warranty.

Desktop / notebook computers, tablets, processors, motherboards, digital cameras, camcorders and projectors, 3D printers, 3D scanners, and CD/DVD duplicators may be returned within 15 days of purchase. All other products may be returned within 30 days of purchase. Merchandise must be in new condition, with original carton/UPC, and all packaging/accessories/materials. If you need to return software, a game or a movie, remember that you may not retain any copies - it"s not legal, and it"s not nice.

This Original Creality Ender 3/Pro LCD Display + Ribbon Cable is an OEM replacement part designed to replace the original LCD display and ribbon cable for the Creality Ender 3/Pro or Ender-5/Pro 3D printer. It features a 3.5inch LCD display with a resolution of 320 x 240, and a high-quality ribbon cable for a reliable connection. This replacement part is compatible with both the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro models, and is an essential part for keeping your 3D printer running smoothly.

Desktop / notebook computers, tablets, processors, motherboards, digital cameras, camcorders and projectors, 3D printers, 3D scanners, and CD/DVD duplicators may be returned within 15 days of purchase. All other products may be returned within 30 days of purchase. Merchandise must be in new condition, with original carton/UPC, and all packaging/accessories/materials. If you need to return software, a game or a movie, remember that you may not retain any copies - it"s not legal, and it"s not nice.

Both the Creality Ender 3 V2 and Ender 3 Max are reliable 3D printers. We have had to replace a few parts on these printers after extended use, including multiple new hot ends, extruder gears, and new power supplies. The Ender 3 Max adds some improvements in this area that improve the reliability, and prevent some of the repairs that were eventually needed on the Ender 3 V2.

The Ender 3 Max also includes an upgraded metal extruder, while the Ender 3 V2 uses a plastic extruder housing. You can upgrade the plastic extruder to a metal one pretty easily, though. We have done so on all of our Creality 3D printers.

In addition, the Ender 3 Max includes a premium Meanwell power supply, which is what we always use when replacing the PSU in our printers. We can confirm that these power supplies are more reliable, and we haven’t had one fail yet on any of our printers. While you can apply this upgrade to the Ender 3 V2, it does require opening the control box and securing wires to screw terminals. While no soldering is required, we still don’t recommend it for beginners.

Most convenience features are shared by both printers, however the Ender 3 Max includes a Filament Runout Sensor. If your printer runs out of filament, the printer will pause and beep to let you know, allowing you to reload it and start again. We noticed that annoyingly, the bed heater is also turned off when this happens. If you are not able to restart the print within 3-4 minutes the part will often detach from the bed, ruining the print.

A feature the Ender 3 V2 has over the Ender 3 Max is an improved LCD screen interface, with a larger screen and more user friendly UI. Neither interface is a touch screen, such as those featured on more premium printers like the Creality CR-10 Pro V2.

The Creality Ender 3 S1 is a great 3D printer with a number of features that weren"t available before in 3D printers at this price point. Its few shortcomings are relatively minor complaints in the grand scheme of things, and overall we think the Ender 3 S1 is an impressive machine that offers good value for the money.

With its Ender 3 series, Creality established itself as a reliable and affordable entry-level 3D printer manufacturer. The Ender 3 S1 is the company’s latest offering, and it looks to improve upon its predecessors by including a number of new features while still maintaining an attractive price point.

The Creality Ender 3 S1 is a 3D printer that usesfused deposition modeling (FDM) technology. FDM is what most hobbyist 3D printers use. It’s an additive manufacturing process in which a filament is melted and extruded through a nozzle to create a three-dimensional object layer by layer.

FDM stands in contrast with resin printing, which is the other main type of 3D printing technology. Resin printing uses a liquid resin that is cured with ultraviolet light to create objects layer by layer.

FDM printers, like the Ender 3 S1, are often favored over resin printers because of their easier operation, wider material choice, and larger print volume.

If your 3D printing requirements involve precision and detail, you might be better off with aresin 3D printer. If not, keep on reading this Ender 3 S1 review!

As is starting to become more common with hobbyist 3D printers nowadays, the Ender 3 S1 is shipped partially assembled in a foam-packed box. The benefit of this is that you don’t have to do as much work to get the printer up and running. However, it does add a bit to the overall cost of the printer since you’re essentially paying someone else to do part of the assembly for you.

In short, everything you need to get started with 3D printing is included in the box. The only thing you’ll need to purchase separately is filament. The included sample filament is a nice touch, but it is not going to last you very long.

As we mentioned, the Ender 3 S1 ships partially assembled. The majority of the assembly work has already been done for you, which makes things much easier. However, there are still a few steps that you need to do in order to get the printer up and running.

The first thing you need to do is attach the Z-axis gantry to the base of the Ender 3 S1. This is done by threading four M5 screws through the bottom of the printer base and into the gantry.

Next, you need to attach the extruder assembly. This is done by clipping the extruder on the X-axis carriage and screwing in the included 4 M3 bolts to secure it.

Lastly, make sure that the voltage selector switch on the power supply is set to the correct voltage for your region (230V or 110V). Having this set to the wrong voltage can damage the power supply and/or the Ender 3 S1 itself, so make sure to double-check.

There is a bit more to do before you can start 3D printing. To our surprise, these steps are not covered in the quick start guide. We highly recommend following the steps below to make sure that your Ender 3 S1 works optimally.

On our Ender 3 S1, the belt on the X-axis gantry was not tightened at all from the factory. We found that we needed to tighten it by a couple of turns in order to achieve proper belt tension. The Y-axis belt, on the other hand, did have the correct amount of tension.

It is likely that our Ender S1 is not the only one that comes from the factory like this, so it is a bit concerning that these steps are not included in the manual.

The Creality Ender 3 S1 has several attributes that make it stand out over other entry-level 3D printers like the Ender 3 V2. These features have increased the cost of the new S1 series, but they also make it a more capable and user-friendly 3D printer.

A common trend in recent 3D printers is the inclusion of automatic bed leveling. This is a feature that used to be only found on more expensive printers, but the Ender 3 S1 now includes it as well.

CR-Touch and BLTouch sensors are popular Ender 3 V2 upgrades. Now that a CR-Touch is included with the Ender 3 S1, there is no need to spend your time and money on an aftermarket sensor. A welcome addition, in our opinion.

Another notable feature of the Ender 3 S1 is its direct-drive “Sprite” extruder. This is an upgrade from the Ender 3 V2, which uses a Bowden-style extruder.

With the Ender 3 V2, many users decide to upgrade to a Micro-Swiss direct extruder at some point. You can be sure that the Ender 3 S1 extruder is already capable of delivering great results out of the box.

If you want to print with a nozzle temperature of up to 300 °C, Creality does sell the Ender S1 Pro 3D printer. This version of the S1 comes with an all-metal hot end that can reach higher temperatures.

However, for most users, the regular Ender 3 S1 will suffice. It can still print with a wide range of filaments, including PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU, wood filaments, and more.

The Ender 3 S1 comes with a CR-FDM-v2.4.S1_v301 32-bit controller board with silent stepper drivers. This is an improvement over the loud V2.2.2 or V4.3.1 boards that the Ender 3 and 3 Pro used to be shipped with.

The ‘loudness’ of the mainboard is mainly defined by the stepper drivers. With four Trinamic TMC2209 drivers, the Ender 3 S1 is much quieter than older stock Ender 3-series printers.

A dual Z-axis setup is usually reserved for larger 3D printers. However, considering the extra weight of a direct extruder, it makes sense that Creality would include a second Z-motor on the S1.

For the belts, Creality has used Gates-branded ones. These are known for being high-quality and durable. This is an improvement over the no-name generic timing belts we often see on other 3D printers in this price class.

In practice, we found the dual Z-axis system to work well. The printer was able to produce consistent results, even at higher printing speeds. It is definitely an improvement over the single Z-axis system of the Ender 3 V2 and helps to justify the increased price of the S1.

As a print bed, the Creality Ender 3 S1 uses a PC coated magnetic spring steel sheet. This is a type of steel that is often used in 3D printer build plates.

The print surface of the Creality Ender 3 S1 has good temperature uniformity. There is a slight decrease in temperature at the four corners of the bed, but aside from that, the temperature is consistent across the entire print surface.

This evenness helps reduce warping and delamination problems on larger 3D prints, making the Ender 3 S1 an ideal choice for those who want to make full use of its build volume.

It is also exactly what you should be looking for if you want to 3D print larger objects in materials like ABS. For a 3D printer at this price point, these results are more than acceptable.

The Ender 3 S1 comes with a filament runout sensor mounted at the top of the frame, near the spool holder. This is a useful addition that can save you a lot of time and hassle.

For example, on the rear of the 3D printer you can find an extra expansion interface port. This can be used to add a variety of to-be-released upgrades.

We think that it’s great that Creality has included the option for further upgrades. It shows that they are committed to making the Ender 3 S1 a 3D printer that can grow with your needs.

The build quality of a 3D printer is important for two reasons. Not only does it affect the precision and accuracy of the machine, but it also affects the long-term durability.

The frame of the Ender 3 S1 is made from aluminum extrusions. This helps to keep the printer stable and rigid, while also being light enough to move around when needed.

The use of aluminum extrusions is a common building method for 3D printers. It is a tried and true method that results in a rigid machine that gives more precise positioning of its moving parts.

One thing to note is that the S1 uses smooth extrusion for its frame. While this does give the 3D printer a nice look, it does make it more difficult to install some aftermarket upgrades. If you are planning on upgrading your machine, keep this in mind.

We were happy to find that all high-current wires on the Ender 3 S1 are properly crimped. This is important because it helps to prevent electrical issues down the road.

It is clear that Creality is not cutting corners when it comes to the wiring of the S1. One of the most important aspects of any 3D printer is its safety. You want to be sure that you are not going to end up with a fire hazard in your home.

Sound-wise there is nothing to complain about either. Other 3D printer power supplies can be loud under load, this one is relatively quiet. It is definitely still audible, but it is not obtrusive.

The Ender 3 S1 comes with a parts drawer that is designed to make it easy to store and organize spare parts. You can fill it with various items, such as spare nozzles, screws, and tools, that you would otherwise have lying around on your 3D printer table.

This drawer is a great feature, and we wish more 3D printer manufacturers would include something similar. The drawer itself is well-made and fits snugly into the bottom of the printer.

The build volume of the Ender 3 S1 is 200x200x270 mm. This is a fairly standard print volume for cheaper machines. Despite the higher price, the S1 does not offer anything extra in this area.

Comparable 3D printers, like the Artillery Genius Pro and Creality Ender 3 V2, give you a 200x200x250 mm print volume. So the S1 only offers 20 mm more on the Z-axis.

In practice, this is a negligible difference. But if you are looking for a large 3D printer, the Ender 3 S1 should not be on your list of products to consider.

The Ender 3 S1 is a fairly quiet machine during 3D printing. Its power supply fan is less noticeable than the fans on other 3D printers, and the stepper motors make very little noise as well. As a result, there is little need for installing vibration dampeners on the steppers or replacing fans.

We did not measure the loudness of the 3D printer in decibels, as this number is notoriously inaccurate without calibrated equipment and a sound-proofed environment.

However, the sound level of the Ender 3 S1 is similar to that of background music. It’s there, but you will quickly tune it out and not notice it unless you are actively looking for it.

Just like the Ender 3 V2, the S1 comes with a 4.3″ LCD screen with a control knob. We’re not entirely sure why Creality did not go with a touch screen here. However, considering that the Ender 3 S1 Pro does come with a touch screen, it might have been to differentiate the S1 from the higher-end model.

Even though the non-touch LCD screen feels a bit old-fashioned, it is easy enough to use. It has a brand new UI interface, is responsive, bright, and the menus are logically laid out.

The user interface on the LCD uses a dark theme. Pleasant in the dark, but this can be a bit of eye-straining if you are using the printer in a well-lit room.

On the front of the S1 you will find a USB-C connector and full-size SD card slot. Both are improvements over the microSD card slots and USB-B connectors that can be found on older 3D printers.

The firmware of the Ender 3 S1 is something that Creality can improve upon. The firmware version shipped with our sample was V3.0.3, which has some shortcomings to it.

Fortunately, both of these issues can be fixed later by flashing a custom firmware to the 3D printer. However, we do think it is better to have these things configurable right out of the box.

On the plus side, the firmware does let you configure the maximum speed/acceleration/jerk settings through the LCD screen. This is a feature that we really appreciate, as it makes it very easy to fine-tune the performance of the machine.

The Ender 3 S1 is a fairly straightforward machine to maintain. All of the main components are easily accessible, and there are not a lot of delicate parts that can break easily.

For example, the electronics compartment can be easily accessed by removing the panel on the underside of the 3D printer. This gives you quick and easy access to the power supply and controller board.

It must be said that a direct extruder is more difficult to disassemble and work on than a Bowden extruder. Not only that, but the extruder on the Ender 3 S1 is also more challenging to work on than other direct extruders, like the one on the Anycubic Kobra.

As of writing this, the latest version of PrusaSlicer (2.4.2) comes with a profile for the Ender 3 S1. The latest version of Cura (4.13.1) does not, but it is easy to create one by copying the Ender 3 V2 profile and modifying it with a maximum print height of 270 mm.

The print quality of the Ender 3 S1 is very good, especially considering the price point. For our review, we printed a selection of test prints from Thingiverse and similar sites. All prints came out well, with no noticeable defects.

This river boat is a great print quality test. We are very happy with how the Ender 3 S1 did here. The overhangs and bridging on the boat are handled well by the S1. The same can be said for the retractions. We bumped the default retraction for PLA up from 0.8mm to 1.5mm to reduce stringing.

Only positives to say about this 3D print. The details came out very well and the quality is more than on par with what you would expect from a $400 3D printer.

To print this birdhouse we swapped the stock Ender 3 S1 0.4mm nozzle out with a 0.6mm E3D V6 nozzle. Both nozzles have identical M6 thread and are compatible with each other. The V6 nozzle is shorter than the MK8 V6 nozzle, but there is still enough clearance for the S1’s print cooling fan to not hit the model during printing.

As siblings in the same series, the Ender 3 S1 and S1 Pro have a large number of similarities. Both 3D printers have the same build volume, construction, mainboard, double Z-axis, and more. In fact, it would be easier to just list the differences.

The main difference between the S1 and S1 Pro is the extruder. The Ender 3 S1 uses the “Sprite” extruder with a maximum nozzle temperature of 260 °C. The S1 Pro uses the superior “Sprite Pro” extruder with a max nozzle temp of 300 °C.

Another difference between the extruders is that the “Sprite” is PTFE-lined, and the “Sprite Pro” is all-metal. The all-metal design is superior for reliability and filament compatibility. If you want to 3D print with Nylon or higher-temperature ABS filaments, the S1 Pro is the printer to go for.

The S1 Pro also comes with an improved interface. While both the LCD screen with knob and touch screen are responsive, the touch screenlooks sleeker and is easy to use. Also included on the pro is an LED light strip to light up your work area.

The last difference is the price. The Ender 3 S1 is $80 cheaper than the Ender 3 S1 Pro. This is to be expected, as the Pro version is the newer and more feature-rich 3D printer.

Either version of the Ender 3 S1 is a great machine, but if you plan to work with high-temperature filaments, we recommend going for the Pro. The extra temperature range and quality of life features are worth the price hike in our opinion.

There is no debate that the Ender 3 S1 is a better 3D printer than the Ender 3 V2. The only reason you would choose the older V2 over the S1 is the price.

The 3D printer market is very competitive, and companies are constantly releasing new models that offer more features for the same price. The Ender 3 V2 was a great machine a couple of years ago, but it has been eclipsed by the S1.

The Ender 3 S1’s direct-drive extruderis a big step up from the Bowden setup on the V2. The direct drive allows for better performance with flexible filaments and offers better print quality in general. Reliability is also increased with the direct extruder.

The S1 also uses a newer 32-bit mainboard with TMC2209 drivers. The new mainboard and drivers offer better performance, silent printing, and more features than the V2.

Assembly is improved as well. Because the S1 is pre-assembled, it is easier to get up and running than the V2. The main thing you need to do is install the Z-axis gantry, which takes a couple of minutes. The Ender V2, on the other hand, requires a more involved assembly process that takes hours.

The only area where the V2 still has an advantage is price. The Ender 3 V2 can be found for $259, whereas the S1 sets you back $399. That is a $140 difference that is significant for a lot of people.

At the end of the day, the Ender 3 S1 is a better 3D printer than the V2 and is worth the extra money in our opinion. If it fits in your budget, we recommend going for the S1.

Anycubic and Creality are two of the most popular 3D printer brands on the market, and their printers are often compared to each other. Both the Creality Ender 3 S1 and the Anycubic Kobra are recently released, budget-friendly 3D printers that offer great value for the money. So, how do they compare?

Bed leveling is where these two 3D printers are similar too. Both have a probe-assisted leveling system that makes it easy for the 3D printers to adjust for unevenness in the print bed. The S1 uses a CR Touch and the Kobra an inductive probe, but the results are the same.

The Ender 3 S1 comes with a dual Z-axis arrangement. This gives the S1 greater stability, which leads to better print quality. The Kobra only has a single Z-axis, which can lead to vibration and wobble at a higher printing speed.

On the other hand, the Kobra has a touch screenand support for sensorless homing. Both are small quality of life features that make 3D printing easier, but in practice, they only make a small difference.

The Anycubic Kobra is a great 3D printer, but in our opinion, the Creality Ender 3 S1 is a slightly better machine. It’s pretty close, however, and ultimately it is the price difference that is the most significant factor. The S1 costs $399 and the Kobra only $299, so it really depends on your budget as to which 3D printer is the better option.

The Ender 3 S1 is a great 3D printer for anyone looking for the latest budget machine from Creality. It’s a significant upgrade over the V2 and is packed with features that weren’t available before in 3D printers at this price point. If you can afford the $399 asking price, we think the S1 is a great option.

Its lack of touch screen and overly sticky print surface are relatively minor complaints in the grand scheme of things. The overall package is very impressive, and we think the Ender 3 S1 is arguably the best 3D printer under $500 on the market right now.

If you want more headroom for high-temperature filaments, the Ender 3 S1 Pro is the better option. It comes with an all-metal hotend that can heat up to 300 °C, which is ideal for filaments like ABS and Nylon.

At the end of the day, all of these 3D printers offer great value for the money. It really comes down to your specific needs as to which one is the best option for you.

Note: This 24-bit Colorful Screen is compatible with Ender-3 V2. However, it is also compatible with Ender-3 or Ender-3 PRO with a 32-bit V4.2.2 or V4.2.7 board.

Martin has a M.Sc. in physics and has gained many years of experience in industry as a lab manager and quality assurance manager. He has now tested dozens of 3D printers and is happy to share the collected experience with each new article.

The Ender 3 V2* sets new standards for low-budget 3D printers. It is based on the extremely successful first version and brings many practical upgrades and improvements to the hard- and software.

Where the original version of the Ender 3 required a lot of tinkering, the Ender 3 V2 is a 3D printer that you can start right away. Of course, you can tinker just as much with the new version, but it’s no longer mandatory! The Ender 3 V2 comes with many upgrades that were often installed by users in the first version.

The quality, reliability and accuracy of this workhorse are outstandingly good for this price range. The Ender 3 V2 is especially recommended for beginners who do not want to invest directly in a model of the next price range such as the CR-6 SE (which has many more practical features!).

Since the Ender 3 V2* is only partially pre-assembled, the package it comes in is also surprisingly small. All parts are well protected wrapped in matching foam. Even if the package is dropped or thrown once or twice during transport, nothing should happen here.

Since the 3D printer is designed for beginners, everything is included for a quick start. All the tools you need, some filament for the first test prints and a USB adapter with a MicroSD card on which test objects and other files are stored.

Some parts of the Ender 3 V2 are pre-assembled. From my point of view, a good balance between pre-assembled and self-assembly has been found here. If too much is pre-assembled, the package gets bigger and also the price increases, because the assembly takes time.

With this 3D printer, the most complicated parts such as the print head, the extruder or the complete 3D printer base with print bed are pre-assembled. The rest you only have to screw together.

The most complicated part of the assembly is to mount and tension the toothed belt correctly. With some other 3D printers, the X-axis is already pre-assembled and you only have to tension the toothed belt correctly. But even that is not a problem, because the instructions explain the assembly very well in words and pictures.

Before you turn on the 3D printer, make sure that the switch on the back of the device is set to the correct supply voltage. You can choose between 115 and 230 V, depending on which power supply you have. If you have selected the wrong voltage, the printer will smoke when you switch it on and will not work!

The print bed leveling of the Ender 3 V2 is done quite classically with the paper method. You adjust the distance between the nozzle and the print bed so that a normal piece of paper (with a thickness of approx. 0.1 mm) just fits between the nozzle and the print bed. If there is some friction when the paper moves, the distance is set correctly.

Filament loading is the biggest minus point in the operation of the Ender 3 V2! Without some practice, it is very difficult to feed the filament through the extruder to the Bowden tube.

You can preheat the 3D printer in two different modes. One for PLA (nozzle 200 °C, print bed 60 °C) and one for ABS (nozzle 240 °C, print bed 70 °C). Alternatively, you can also set the temperature manually.

The print quality of theEnder 3 V2* is good for its price range and comparable to many other hobby 3D printers. Even if you compare it to more expensive 3D printers like the Creality CR-6 SE, you can hardly see any differences in the print image.

The print quality of the Ender 3 V2 is very good with an accuracy of 0.1 mm. The layer thickness is between 0.1 and 0.4 mm. With this accuracy, not only decorative objects can be printed, but also mechanical parts.

After assembling the 3D printer, the first thing I did was print the included test objects from the micro SD card. The cat printed flawlessly and the support structures were also no problem.

Filaments with additives can lead to problems with some 3D printers. For example, the nozzle may become clogged or the print bed adhesion may be suboptimal.

For the tool drawer, these two parts are a bit bulky or too big and make more sense outside of the 3D printer anyway, since you’ll need them frequently.

The Ender 3 V2* is the successor of the legendary Ender 3*. The first version revolutionized the hobby 3D printer market and is still one of the most popular low-budget 3D printers.

Some 3D printers come completely assembled to your home. Some can be described more as a kit where you have to assemble everything. The Ender 3 V2 is somewhere in between.

But since you’re going to need these two tools all the time anyway, it’s more convenient to either put them next to the 3D printer or hang them on a tool holder you printed yourself. Such small gadgets are also the perfect tests to optimize the settings.

The installed TMC2208 stepper drivers were also a must-have upgrade on the Ender 3. These stepper motor drivers are not only much quieter than the original drivers of the Ender 3, they also guarantee a smoother movement of the motors.

However, the built-in fans are not the best and the 3D printer reaches a total of approx. 41 dB during the printing of a PLA object (comparable to a quiet conversation).

Meanwhile, the resume print function is a standard feature of modern hobby 3D printers. This function saves the current print progress in case of an unexpected power failure.

If you have to deal with ghosting or ringing, for example, you will have to adjust the belt tension here and there. When assembling the 3D printer, the instructions explain in detail how to set the belt tension correctly. Since you have to install the timing belt yourself, this is important.

The menu of the Ender 3 V2 has also been revised and is now very similar to those of the other newer 3D printers from Creality. The menu is very intuitive, so you can quickly find everything with just a few clicks.

The color 4.3 inch LCD display of the Ender 3 V2 guides you quickly to the settings you need with intuitive menu navigation. Unfortunately, it is not a touchscreen and is operated with a rotary knob.

However, that is not a big deal since the operation via the rotary knob is almost as fast as with the finger on a touchscreen. The display’s quality and size are absolutely sufficient.

Its predecessor alone is one of the best-selling 3D printers in the world. You can do very little wrong here and are unlikely to encounter any major difficulties.

Even though the Ender 3 V2 already has many upgrades built-in as standard in contrast to its predecessor, there are still upgrades that can definitely make sense.

The enclosure has a layer of the aluminum inside to retain heat in the 3D printer. Another plus of this layer is that it is flame-retardant and smothers fires rather than spreading them further.

It is available in two sizes and is suitable for many 3D printers. It has several openings to operate the 3D printer and a large opening to open the complete front and top. Through the transparent front window, you can see what is happening inside.

The Bowden extruder of the Ender 3 V2 does not handle flexible filaments like TPU very well. During printing, flexible filaments often get tangled in the extruder or on the long way to the nozzle.

There are many ways you can equip the Ender 3 V2 with a Direct Drive System. One of them is a DIY solution where you print certain parts yourself and then place the stepper motor, the extruder and the print head as a direct drive system.

The touchscreen* is especially worthwhile for the original Ender 3. For the Ender 3 V2, this is only a slight improvement. But if you prefer to work with a touchscreen rather than a knob, this upgrade is still worth it.

With this upgrade*, you can completely illuminate the printing area of the Ender 3 V2. The installed LEDs are white (6500 K) and consume a maximum of 5 watts.

The installation takes less than 5 minutes and the price is also very small. So if you don’t have perfect lighting in the room or use the enclosure where the 3D printer is located, this upgrade is a no-brainer.

The Ender 3 Pro* is the actual predecessor of the Ender 3 V2. The printing results are more or less identical but it lacks one or two practical upgrades of the second version of the Ender 3.

Based on the first version of the Ender 3, the Ender 3 Max* has a large build volume of 300 x 300 x 340 mm, a filament sensor and a glass print bed. Otherwise, it offers you the same accuracy and reliability of the Ender 3 series.

In developing the Ender 3 V2*, Creality listened carefully to the community and incorporated the most important upgrades into the new version. However, to make the price as attractive as possible for beginners, more advanced upgrades such as automatic bed leveling or a direct drive extruder have not been included in the new version.

Nevertheless, the price is lower than if you get an Ender 3 V2 than an Ender 3 V1* with all the upgrades built into the second version. Creality has optimized their manufacturing processes to reduce the price, in addition to installing the most important upgrades.

I would only recommend the original Ender 3 if you love to tinker. If you want to install every single upgrade yourself and tinkering is your main focus and not printing, then the first version of the Ender 3 is well worth it.