lcd touch screen removing wire roll quotation

Sunshine DT-21N High-precision AC/DC Test Smart Touch Digital MultimeterSpecification:Brand: SunshineProduct Name: Touch MultimeterModel: DT-21NProduc..

Sunshine DT-21N High-precision AC/DC Test Smart Touch Digital MultimeterSpecification:Brand: SunshineProduct Name: Touch MultimeterModel: DT-21NProduc..

LCD Touch Screen Removing Wire Roll can be used to separate the touch screens from mobile phones . Excellent to remove old broken glass from lcd screens.

You need to save the LCD or touch screen of a smartphone or tablet ? Or simply replace one of the two elements instead of replacing a complete screen ? Then you"ll need this cutting thread !

After having heated the screen surface with a air gun or other appropriate machine, just slide the cutting thread between the LCD and the touch screen to separate them as the glue was soften by the heat.

MMOBIEL Molybdenum Cutting Wire Gold 0.08mm 100m/329ft Great for Professional LCD front Glass Seperation & Free Black Premium Handle Dissection Sticks Gold Wire High hardness, high wear resistance, high toughtness, high tensile strength. Free Black Premium Grip Handles with two holders, Easy to Separate LCD & digitizer and refurbish LCD For Professional Cutting and separating LCD & Digitizer, Compatible with Smartphones. 0.08mm Thickness, & 100m/329ft Long Incl MMOBIEL Microfiber Cleaning Cloth Suitable for several Smartphone, Tablet and Laptop Models of the following manufacturers: iPhone, iPad, Samsung, Huawei, Sony, Xiaomi, LG, Nokia, Motorola, Asus, Lenovo, BlackBerry, Figo, Honor, LeEco, Blu, Microsoft, Nexus, HTC, Google, Archos, Emporia, Garmin, Intex, NEC, Palm, Sagem, Acer, OPPO, ONEPlus MEIZU, Alcatel, ZTE, Xolo, Micromax, Gionee, Vivo, HP, verykool, Maxwest, Plum, Vertu, Yota, Wiko PLEASE CHECK if these tools are compatible for your model and planned repair job. High quality product by MMOBIEL: Each parts are tested before shipment, Item in Stock!

One of the issues these MacBook Airs do have is a fragile display. The LCD panel is more easily cracked than other models of Macs, and the repair options are more difficult due to the design of the screen. The light design is partly to blame, as well as the thin design of the display assembly itself.

The cost of repairing common MacBook Air issues is generally very affordable, especially as the computer ages. For screen repairs, the cost of a professional repairis quite affordable.

When it comes to the A1466 MacBook Air, you have two options for screen repair. You can either replace just the cracked LCD (as long as the display assembly is still in good shape), or you can replace the entire display assembly.

Replacing the entire display assembly is what Apple offers at the Apple Store, as it is a much easier method than replacing the LCD panel only. Replacing the LCD panel only is a difficult procedure that requires a lot of skill and patience. Usually replacing the display assembly is faster, but not always.

I will cover both methods of MacBook Air screen repair in this article. I will start with the easier and more expensive display assembly replacement, then move on to the more difficult, but cheaper, LCD-only repair. But first, we will go over some reasons you may choose one type of repair over another.

There are a few reasons you might need to replace the entire display assembly rather than just the LCD panel. I have an article I wrote about the types of damage done to a MacBook that would make the screen need repair, but the two main issues are liquid damage and dents.

Basically, if the display assembly is damaged to a point where it should be replaced, then replacing the entire display assembly is going to be the best way forward. The display assembly includes the LCD panel, back housing, bezel, iSight, hinges, and more.

If there is liquid damage that caused the screen to not work properly, it is very likely that the components inside the display assembly are damaged which is best to repair by replacing the entire display assembly. If there are major dents or a bend to the display housing, then a new LCD panel will likely not fit nicely into the original display assembly.

It is very rare to have to replace the display assembly. Over 95% of the people who contact me looking for a MacBook Air screen repair just require an LCD replacement.

LCD panel replacement is by far the most common type of service that is necessary for a MacBook Air screen repair. Generally, the LCD panel is cracked or broken in some way, and by replacing the LCD panel we are able to fix the computer completely.

There are many ways that the LCD panel in a MacBook Air can fail, but the most common is cracking or bending to the point of cracking. The bending on this model can even come from something as simple as opening and closing the computer from the corner of the display instead of the center.

While LCD replacement on a 2010-2017 MacBook Air is a much more difficult job than replacing the display assembly, it does save you a lot of money to perform this repair. Due to the difficulty in completing this repair, I do recommend you utilize a good repair shop to complete it for you.

Once you have all your important data backed up, go ahead and shut your computer down. This is done by clicking on the Apple logo at the top left of the screen and selecting “Shut Down…” from the list. Confirm you want to shut your computer down when prompted, and wait about 10 seconds after the display goes black before closing the lid of your computer.

First, disconnect the fan cable. The fan is connected via a ZIF socket, so there is a little plastic flap on the connector that needs to be carefully lifted before removing the connector. The pictures show how to lift the plastic flap using the pointy end of the spudger.

Start by opening the computer and placing it on its side as the pictures show. Removing the 6 screws holding down the hinges is pretty easy, but take care not to strip them. Take your time and focus on one at a time.

Finding a new LCD panel to replace your cracked or failed LCD can be difficult. There are sellers on eBay and Amazon that source LCD panels that are grade B or have visual defects, then when you install it into your computer and notice the issue (after hours of work) they say you caused the damage. For this reason, it is best to go with a reputable repair shop to source the part.

I have an entire page dedicated to sourcing the LCD panel for a 2010-2017 MacBook Air. Check it out to find places to purchase that give you the best chance of having a good outcome and more.

The same tools are used to disassemble the MacBook Air as with the display assembly repair, but for LCD replacement you will also need a couple of additional tools and some special adhesive. The tools needed for the LCD panel replacement are:

Be sure to set aside plenty of time for this repair. I recommend splitting it into two parts. You start with the display replacement guide above to get the display off the computer, then rest and do something fun for a few hours, then come back to this guide to replace the LCD panel on your display. Overall I recommend setting aside an entire day for this repair.

It is much easier to do this repair with the display assembly removed from the computer. My display replacement guide above will get you through to having the display separate from the computer, then you move on to the process of removing the LCD panel itself from the display assembly.

The bezel is the silver strip that surrounds the screen on these A1466 MacBook Airs. Note that the bezel is held in place by a very strong adhesive, so the goal here is to heat up the adhesive to make removing the bezel easier.

In my experience, a temperature of around 300 degrees with a small air nozzle works really well. Keep the nozzle close to the center of the bezel and work your way around using movements as shown in the video. It is important to not let the heat stay in one area too long. You want to take care not to melt the rubber gasket that surrounds the screen and also to not cause damage to the backlight sheets that are just under the LCD panel.

You run the knife under the bezel starting at the bottom right corner of the screen. Work your way up and around until you have cut the adhesive between the bezel and the LCD panel all the way around the screen. Take extra care around the iSight camera. Just to the left of the iSight camera is the iSight camera board which is easily damaged during this process. Also, take extra care at the bottom left of the screen, this is where the iSight cable is easily nicked during the process.

There are 5 screws along the bottom of the LCD panel that are covered in little black pieces of tape. Use your tweezers to remove those pieces of tape, and then remove the screws. There are also two black screws holding down the inverter board at the bottom of the LCD. These two screws also get removed.

This is another part of the repair where you need to relax and take your time. Use the hot air and small nozzle to heat up the right-hand side of the LCD, right where it connects to the edge of the display assembly. There is a 2mm piece of double-sided tape under this area that is holding the LCD down.

I like to angle the hot air towards the edge of the screen and move it along pretty quickly, in order to keep the backlight sheets directly under the LCD from getting damaged.

Once the edge is warmed up, use your painting knife to slide under the screw post on the farthest right side of the display. This will lift the display just a little and cause upward pressure on the LCD panel. Keep heating the edge of the LCD panel until you see it start to lift a little, then work just the edge of a business card into the gab, and slowly move the business card up to separate the LCD from the housing.

This part of the repair takes a while, you want to work in sections, so heat up the tape holding down the LCD panel, then move the card a little bit up, then heat up the next area, and move the card up a little more. The better you do this part the easier the rest of the repair will be, so take your time.

The left-hand side of the LCD panel is held down by a larger piece of adhesive, this makes it quite a bit more difficult to use the business card method. For this part of the project, you will first heat the left side of the LCD where the adhesive is, then apply upward pressure by lifting on the right-hand side of the LCD panel.

Lift the right-hand side of the LCD panel very, very, very slowly while continually moving your heat up and down the left side of the LCD. This will allow the LCD to pull free of the tape, or the tape to pull free of the housing.

Now that the LCD panel is removed, you can see the piece of metal along the bottom that the screws were screwed into. This piece of metal needs to be moved back into the display assembly so it is ready for your new LCD panel to be installed.

Heat up the metal as it is attached with the same tape as the LCD panel was attached with, then use your painting knife to get between the metal and the LCD. This is usually pretty easy after just completing the more difficult LCD removal process.

This is where your 1mm tape comes into play! You want to replace any of the black tape that was damaged or removed during the process so far so you can install the new LCD and have adhesive around the whole thing.

I like to start by replacing any tape that was removed from the metal piece that sits below the LCD panel at the bottom of the assembly, then carefully put that metal piece back into the housing and screw it in as shown in the pictures. Note that the adhesive you just put in faces up towards you.

First, you want to use your can of compressed air to carefully blow any dust from the backlight sheets before installing the new LCD. Take care to not let those sheets get moved around in the process. They need to sit exactly where they are.

Remove any backing from the adhesive that you installed, and also remove the backing from the LCD panel. You can leave the plastic on the front of the LCD panel, but be sure you remove it from the back before installing.

Then you want to line up the circles on the top right and left of the display with the cross hairs on the LCD panel. Once those are lined up you can slowly sink the LCD into the housing, then gently run your finger around the whole LCD panel along the edge to make sure the adhesive is attached to the LCD panel as well as the back housing.

Apply the 12mm tape all around the LCD assembly. Note you want 1-2mm of the tape to cover the LCD panel to help keep it in place. Cut a small piece of the 12mm tape to go above the sight camera. Be sure to leave the area to the left of the camera open where the light sensor is located. The pictures show how it should look when you have completed the work.

Remove all the backing from the tape and install the bezel. I like to start by lining up the top right and left of the bezel, then letting it drop in just like I did with the LCD panel. Gently push on the LCD around the edges to make sure the adhesive is sealed.

If you have just read through this guide and decided you would rather have somebody else do the project for you, please consider letting me repair your Mac screen! I have completed literally thousands of these Mac screen repairs, and have them down to a science. I keep my overhead low and provide a quality service for an affordable price.

Typically used for replacement or retrofit upgrade of an existing DC servo motor for use with the Allin1DC CNC controller. You can make your own cables or buy these ready to go units to save time. High quality Cable with Polyurethane jacket, Color coded encoder cable is twisted pair with Shield and Drain for proper noise immunity. Power cable is high quality stranded copper with proper terminals at both ends for plug and play use with the Allin1DC. Both cables have thick rubber liquid tight strain relief seal at the motor end.

Choose between two stock lengths, 12 foot and 16 foot. These cables use twisted pair made-in-USA wire and are properly shielded and grounded for reliable encoder signal and are built and assembled by Centroid in the USA.

These cables are commonly used when upgrading DC servo motor encoders for use with the Allin1DC CNC controller. These cables can also be used for spindle encoder applications on both the Allin1DC and Acorn CNC controllers. One end of the cable is a DB9 connector which plugs directly into the Allin1DC or Acorn CNC controller, the other end of the cable is a single row flat pin connector (9 pin C-grid connector) which plugs into the Centroid Encoder pig tail mating connector.

A mating 9 pin C-grid connector and pins are optional with this cable for the case when a non Centroid encoder is used. The optional mating 9 pin C-grid connector can be installed on the non Centroid encoder pig tail wires which then allows the encoder to plug directly into this cable with no soldering or cutting of this cable.

For use with Centroid motor cables, this direct wire cable strain relief makes a water/oil tight seal against both the motor power and encoder cables to any flat surface. Very useful when converting both old and new servo motors to a direct wire configuration as seen on this page.

Add4AD4DA expansion board. Add an additional analog to digital inputs and digital to analog outputs (for use with the Allin1DC or Oak CNC controllers) $550 (11141)

Communications cable that connects a servo drive to the Oak CNC controller. One end plugs into the servo drive the other end plugs into the Oak CNC control board. Sold in 4 variations. Made in USA.

The productivity comes from overcoming the limitations inherent to conventional lasers. Straight line cutting speed is maximized using a resonator with 4000 watts of CW power, beam enhancement optics and 400 PSI assist gas capabilities. The motion system provides high accelerations and accuracies through the use of linear motors, linear encoders and advanced aerospace composite construction. Maximum positioning speed of the cutting head is 12,020 inches per minute. Dual pallets permit the operator to simultaneously unload parts and load new material on one pallet while the laser is cutting on the other pallet. The conveniently located control, with 15” color LCD touch screen display and full sized standard keyboard, provides the operator with a user-friendly Human Machine Interface (HMI) with nesting software. Dynamic Power Control (DPC) automatically maintains the proper relationship between laser power and the instantaneous feed rate, which is critical for high part accuracy and quality edge condition. The Autofocus laser cutting head automatically adjusts the focus to .001”. A self-aligning lens holder, nozzle tip assembly and laser head construction permits the processing of different materials with minimal set up.

To promote the business of repairing mobile phones and tablets in a short time, it is the best choice for you to purchase the LCD Separator Machine. It can help you solve many problems with refurbishing the screens of mobile phones and tablets,

There are many cellphone repair stores and large refurbish working shops coming up to satisfy the large demand for repairing the screens of mobile phones. If you do this kind of business, maybe you need the LCD separator machine so that you can provide a better service to your customers.

At present, there are manual vacuum machines (vacuum inside) and freezing separator machines to separate the screens of mobile phone and tablets on the market. They are the machines that you can use them to separate the glass cover from the LCD screens and remove the OCA adhesive remains on the LCD screens. The best way to repair the screens of mobile phones is by using both machines together. Use the freezing machine to separate the frame and LCD screen of the mobile phones in advance. Then use the manual separator machine together with degumming machine and steel wire to separate the glass cover and LCD screen of mobile phones and remove OCA adhesive. It can reduce the failure rate of separations, and it can improve the service quality of mobile phone repairers.

For the freezing machine, the temperature can be reduced rapidly by the action of air compressor and refrigerant inside the machine, and the temperature can be dropped rapidly to – 185℃. After the freezing, the parts on the screen of the mobile phone would be hardened and solidify. At this moment, the operator can quickly separate the glass cover from the LCD screen or separate the frame from the LCD screen of the mobile phones or tablets by using very thin cards.

For the manual separator, after the machine is heated slightly to create thermal energy, it uses a vacuum to absorb the screen of the mobile phone. When the temperature of the machine is up to around 90℃, the OCA adhesive would soften so that the operator can separate the glass cover from the LCD screen easily.

For the Manual separator, it is applicable for separating the flat mobile screens. If you use the Manual separator to separate the edge screens of mobile phones, it cannot work well. Because the working efficiency would be low and it is hard for the operator to disassemble the edge screens of mobile phones.

In the ordinary, the mobile phone repairers would like to choose the freezing separator machine to dismantle the edge screens. It is easy to operate, and it can increase the working efficiency when you receive many repairing orders. It helps to solve the problems of separating the edge screens.

For the Manual separator, it has a built-in vacuum pump, and the temperature is adjustable;- It is easy to operate.;- It is used to separating all straight screens and removing the OCA adhesive with degumming machine and steel wire;- The volume of it is small, and the price is economical and practical;- It can greatly reduce the production cost for the cellphone repair stores;- The most important point is the machine hardly any noise.

Of course, to improve the refurbish service to your clients, the best way is to purchase both the manual vacuum separator and the freezing separator machine. You can use them together to solve all the problems of refurbishing the screens of all mobile phones and tablets.