cleaning lcd screen with isopropyl alcohol for sale

Screens, especially touchscreens, collect a lot of dirt, grease and hair. This means that periodic cleaning is something we all have to and should do.

Now, plenty of people get away with wiping a smartphone screen against their t-shirt or pants or using a sleeve to clean a laptop display, but this is not the best way and can itself damage the display.

Do a quick search on the internet, and you"ll find that isopropyl alcohol is the weapon of choice in cleaning displays. This is true, but if used incorrectly, this chemical can also damage the display.

The big DON"T of using isopropyl alcohol is this -- don"t pour or even spray isopropyl alcohol on your display. If you put too much isopropyl alcohol on a screen, damage can occur in two ways:The isopropyl alcohol can seep between the layers of the display, completely ruining it and requiring the device to have a replacement screen fitted

Apple has, naturally, published detailed information on safely cleaning a whole range of products, from notebooks to tablets to smartphones. While this is aimed at Apple users, the information applies to other brands too.

If you have been wondering how to clean a monitor with isopropyl alcohol, then let me tell you that the answer is very simple. All you need is a lint-free cloth and a container filled with 99% pure isopropyl alcohol. To start, dip your cloth in the container of alcohol and wipe away grime from your screen without applying too much pressure. After cleaning, let the monitor dry completely before turning it on again.

Use a soft, lint-free cloth. Avoid paper towels or anything else that might contain fibers. If you"re concerned about your monitor"s finish, you should be especially careful when cleaning it with alcohol—so don"t use any kind of rag or cloth you"ve already used on something else. If you"re concerned about dust or other contaminants on the monitor itself, then go ahead and use a small piece of tape to pick up excess dust before cleaning the screen with isopropyl alcohol.

A damp cloth is best for cleaning the monitor"s screen. This will prevent you from scratching it with a dry cloth or paper towel, which could damage your screen and make it harder to see.

Use a lint-free cloth. You don"t want to leave behind any debris, so you want to avoid using paper towels or other cloths that have fibers that could stick to your screen.

Use only enough isopropyl alcohol to clean off the dust and dirt from your monitor. Overapplying the cleaning solution will cause it to evaporate too quickly and leave residue on your screen, as well as potentially damaging it if there"s too much moisture in the air.

If you"re using a circular motion with your cloth, wipe slowly and do not press down hard on any part of the surface of your display—you could cause permanent damage by scratching or marring it with too much pressure or speed! Instead, move lightly around each individual point until all traces of dust have been removed before moving onto another area (if needed).

The next step after this is drying off any excess liquid: if there is any left over after patting down with one dry portion of cloth material, use another clean section again but be careful not overdo it here so as not spill water into places where they should not go!

Let the alcohol dry completely before turning on the monitor. If you do not, it could damage your monitor and void your warranty. Allow at least five minutes for a regular monitor, and overnight for laptops—the liquid will evaporate faster in warmer weather than in colder.

If you are looking for a way to clean your monitor, then consider using isopropyl alcohol. Isopropyl alcohol is a common solvent used in the medical and pharmaceutical industries, as well as one of the most effective disinfectants around. You can find it at your local drug store or supermarket, usually labeled “rubbing alcohol” or “isopropyl rubbing alcohol”.

Isopropyl alcohol is also very safe to use on monitors because they do not contain any oil or other contaminants that can be removed by detergents such as soap. Another benefit of this cleaner is that it will remove fingerprints without leaving any residue behind (unlike commercial cleaners).

Cleaning your monitor with isopropyl alcohol is a simple way to keep it looking good. It’s also cheap and easy to do, so there’s no reason not to try it. The alcohol will remove dust and fingerprints from both LCD and CRT monitors, leaving them looking like new again!

No matter where LCD screens are kept, they will always need cleaning from time to time. Cleaning an LCD may seem like a daunting task, but there are a few simple ways to clean it without damaging to scratching to surface.

There are many cleaning solutions available in shops. However these may seem a bit expensive and are sometimes quite unnecessary. PixelClean is one of the better and less expensive brands. It is highly recommended. Most products will come with instructions on how to use them.

It is recommended to use a simple alcohol solution to clean an LCD screen. This solution is made up of part distilled water and part 50% isopropyl alcohol. Be warned that isopropyl alcohol is flammable.

50% isopropyl alcohol is very common. If you find 70%, 91%, or 99% isopropyl alcohol, adjust the formula to use less alcohol and more distilled water.

The reason you want this mixture is because alcohol evaporates so quickly. More importantly, it doesn’t leave any residue behind, so the screen will be cleaned without there being any streaks or marks left. You can buy this at your local pharmacy–it’s used for cleaning wounds.

Do NOT use tissues/Kleenex to wipe your screen. That is ineffective, because they will leave little tissue particles all over your screen. You want a 100%-cotton cloth that is soft and absorbent. A t-shirt is a good cloth, but so is a sock or a Turkish towel, so long as it is 100% cotton.

Stay away from cloth that has polyester in it because this can contain stiff filaments. These filaments can scratch the screen while you are rubbing over it. Also stay away from paper towel and tissues. While it might feel soft, remember that it is paper and therefore, it comes from wood. This means that there might be microscopic wood fragments in the paper towel that will scratch your screen if you move it over it. Therefore, avoid anything paper and instead, focus on the cotton.

First dampen the cloth with the alcohol solution. You should never spray any sort of liquid directly onto the screen. You also don’t want to try and clean the screen without some sort of liquid because the dust particle, as it is moved across the screen, will scratch.

Wipe the screen gently from top to bottom or in a counter clockwise direction, and wait for it to dry. You’ll remove all of the dust and the liquid that is on the screen will evaporate quickly. Then, the screen will be clean and scratch free.

Be careful not to let the cleaning solution leak into the sides of the monitor. Also, be certain that you do not press hard on the LCD screen. You can permanently damage an LCD screen by pressing on it too hard.

If there is just dust on your screen, there is no need to fully clean it. To remove dust all that must be done is to wipe it away with a microfiber cloth. Simply wipe your screen from end to end gently with the cloth.

Display technology has come a long way in recent years. OLED and LCD screens are brighter, more colorful and responsive than ever before, but at some point, they all still succumb to dust, dirt and grime. What’s worse is that there are a plethora of cleaning products out there that claim they can make your screen sparkle again. But in our testing, we’ve found that the simplest route is actually the best. In this how-to, we’ll show you how to clean all the screens in your home, from TVs to smartphones.

Before we get to how to clean a screen, there are a few ways you don’t want to go about the process. The first, and most important, is that you don’t want to clean a display using substances like isopropyl alcohol or Windex. Alcohol- and ammonia-based cleaners can damage your screen’s anti-reflective coating. Using those substances repeatedly can lead to clouding and the coating becoming uneven.

Companies like Whoosh make cleaning agents that won’t damage your screen, but in my experience, you’re best off using distilled water. It’s more affordable than a dedicated cleaning agent and more versatile too since you can use it on a variety of surfaces. It also won’t leave behind any residue on your display, which is something I’ve seen products like Whoosh do occasionally. You can buy distilled water at a grocery store or make it yourself with some simple cookware.

Next, be mindful of what you use to wipe your screen. You want to avoid using paper towel, dish rags and anything else that may have an abrasive surface that will damage the coating on your screen. You can use the sleeve of an old but clean t-shirt. That said, you’ll get the best results using microfiber cloths. That’s because the fabric they’re made from is extremely soft and good at attracting dust. We suggest buying a pack of them so that you always have a clean one on hand. The last thing you want to do is use a dirty one and transfer any dirt and grime onto your display.

With all that out of the way, the actual process of cleaning a display is straightforward. If you’re only dealing with some dust, use a can of compressed air or an air blower to dislodge it. You can also turn to a dry microfiber cloth.

For anything more than that, dampen your microfiber cloth with a small amount of distilled water and then gently wipe the display. Once you’ve gone over the entire surface, turn over the cloth and use the dry side to remove any excess water. At this stage, avoid buffing the screen or using excessive pressure. You don’t want to work any particles into the surface of the screen.

That’s it. You should have a clean display now. Obviously, it will take longer to clean a bigger screen, but you can put to use the tips mentioned for all types of displays, including TVs, monitors and glass smartphone displays.

Dirt, dust, and fingerprint smudges aren"t likely to do any long-term damage to your gaming monitor(opens in new tab), but they still suck. Why pay all that money for a nice screen only to have the visual fidelity brought down by smudges and dust. Let"s face it, your monitor is filthy—it"s time to clean it.

You might think that cleaning your monitor is easy, and you"re right. But you still want to be careful and avoid doing things like just wiping it with the corner of your t-shirt—or even worse, a paper towel. Here are a few do"s and don"ts:

Before we start, let"s go over a few big no-no"s, as accidentally damaging your monitor is a pricey mistake we want to avoid. Unfortunately, most of your go-to cleaning products are in here, including our PC favourites like isopropyl.

First off, avoid corrosive substances! That means no alcohol- or ammonia-based cleaners (like diluted rubbing alcohol or Windex). These cleaners can damage your screen by stripping anti-reflective coatings, cause clouding, or worse. Monitors have come a long way from the giant glass bulbs of old-school CRT screens, but that means they"re a lot more sensitive too.

Next, be careful what you use to wipe the screen. Paper towels might seem like a good option, but at a microscopic level, they"re actually quite abrasive. Ditto to t-shirts or other household rags, which might be harboring a stowaway spec of sand, metal, or something else that could scratch up your display in a single wipe.

Finally, you never want to spray your cleaning agent directly onto your monitor. Excess liquid runs the risk of pooling in the corner of your screen, seeping in through tiny weak spots and wreaking havoc on the sensitive materials inside.

1. Blast it — With those words of warning aside, let"s get down to the business of cleaning that monitor. For simple dustings, a blast of compressed air (the same stuff you use to knock dust out of your case fans(opens in new tab)) should do the trick, possibly followed up by a quick dry wipe-down.

2. Wipe it —As for what you wipe with, microfiber cloth is your best friend. Microfiber is extremely soft (at a microscopic level) and known for attracting dust and absorbing oils. Most importantly, it won"t damage your screen. We like these(opens in new tab), or these(opens in new tab) if you want to step up to a more plush option.

3. Wet it —For a little bit of extra cleaning power, slightly dampen your cloth with distilled water (no impurities to cause accidental damage), but not so much that water can be wrung out of it. Remember, we don"t want liquid to run down the screen and collect in the edges and corners. If water alone isn"t doing the trick, mix a cleaning solution of 50 percent distilled water, 50 percent white household vinegar. Same deal as before—apply liquid to the cloth, not the screen.

Now sit back, relax and enjoy the cleanest screen you"ve looked at in a while. Just remember to think of us now and then while you"re enjoying your gaming visual experience to its fullest capacity.

Before you give into your impulses and wipe your screen with whatever you have at hand, let us stop you right there. Your display is way more delicate than you think, and if you want it to last a long time in optimal conditions, you’ll need to treat it with proper love and care.

The good news is that cleaning a computer screen is more simple than you think. You only need a soft cloth, a tiny bit of water, and the most delicate of touches.

As you would expect, not all screens are created equal, and some are more delicate than others. The safest way to figure out the proper care for your screen is to search for the make and model of your device, find out if it has an LCD, LED, or some other type of display, and search for the manufacturer’s instructions on how to care for it.

If you want to skip all that, there’s an easy way to avoid making a mistake that might not only result in irreparable damage to your screen but to your entire device. According to Joe Silverman, owner of New York Computer Help, a tech repair center in New York City, no matter how much money you spent on your computer or tablet, it probably has an LED or an LCD screen if you bought it within the last three years—and neither type benefits from window cleaner or highly concentrated alcohol.

That’s the uppermost layer of your screen, which is extremely sensitive to the acidity in alcohol and in compounds like ammonia or propylene glycol. These are often present in cleaning agents such as window cleaners and degreasers. Using these liquids will corrode the surface of your screen, resulting in scratches or even smudges you won’t be able to get rid of.

Things get even trickier when you’re dealing with touchscreens. On models like the Microsoft Surface, the display is the main input—as opposed to your mouse or trackpad on a regular laptop—so it’s ultra-sensitive, Silverman says. Using a strong liquid cleaner like a degreaser or a bleach-based disinfectant can obliterate the top layer on the screen. Combine that with high pressure, and you can kiss your fancy touchscreen computer goodbye.

Another downside to newer computers is their size and weight. If you decided to splurge on a new laptop, for example, you probably found one that has top-notch components, but also a slick, lightweight design. This format is only possible if everything in your laptop is smaller and thinner. In the case of your display, a thinner screen means a weaker barrier between your computer’s guts and the elements in the outside world.

Caring for your screen is simple—it only takes a little bit of water and a dust-free cloth, such as a microfiber wipe or the piece of fabric that came with your glasses.

First, turn off your computer and disconnect the charger. This might sound paranoid, but the benefit is twofold—you avoid any chance of triggering an electrical surge, and your screen will remain black, which will make it easier to see any dirt and grime.

Pour a couple drops of water on your cloth. Forget paper towels or the sleeve of that soft cotton t-shirt you love—microfiber is your best bet. Still, no matter how soft it is, a dry wipe could always leave micro-abrasions on your screen. The moisture will also help gather dust and particles while lifting grease from your display.

Use circular motions starting in the center of your screen and moving outward, so you don’t leave any streaks. If you can see any droplets or water traces on the glass while you clean, you’ve used way too much water. Gently dab the residual H2O with an absorbent cloth or tissue paper and start again.

If you’re dealing with next-level gunk, you can use isopropyl alcohol at 70 percent or lower, Silverman says. “That percentage is very important,” he explains. “We’d only use 90 percent or higher on dummy parts that don’t have sensors, like top cases and keyboards.” In these extreme cases, spray the alcohol on the cloth, never directly on the screen, and wipe it gently.

Just like solar damage, screen damage is cumulative. The more pressure you apply, the more abrasive a product you use, and the more often you use it, the greater the damage you’re inflicting on the protective layer of your display and the delicate sensors underneath it.

Maybe you can get away with using a high percentage of alcohol or even a window cleaner on your computer screen once or twice. But if you keep at it, eventually you’ll see the deleterious effects.

“You’ll see discoloration, lines (vertical and horizontal); sometimes it looks pretty and rainbow-like,” Silverman says. “Sometimes it’ll blink and sometimes you’ll see droplets of water or liquid in the back of the screen. There’s a lot of ways in which damage appears.”

The best way to avoid damaging your screen while cleaning it is to simply keep it from getting dirty in the first place. If you have a laptop, cover the keyboard with a thin microfiber cloth before closing it to prevent finger grease from transferring to the screen. If you have a touchscreen, wash your hands often before you use it, but make sure you let your hands dry completely before you start tapping—the soapy water or liquid hand cleanser from your fingers can easily end up on the screen and corrode it.

Your phone was designed to be carried, dropped, tapped, swiped, smashed against your face for long periods of time, and stowed in the deepest corners of your bag. In other words, its screen is way more resilient than your computer’s.

Silverman explains that most iPhones and Samsung phones, for example, have screens made out of one thick piece of glass. These, as opposed to computer screens, have all the LCD layers fused together, making them much more difficult to damage. Still, if you’re using alcohol, he recommends keeping the concentration at 70 percent or lower, using a soft cloth, and applying only low pressure to get rid of any accumulated gunk there.

Be especially careful with charging ports, as contact with water (also present in rubbing alcohol) can damage the electronics inside your smartphone. Newer models often are resistant to liquids, but there’s always a threshold to how much they can withstand. And you probably don’t want to know what that is.

Replacing the screen of your computer or smartphone can be expensive, and even if that’s not an issue for you, no one wants their devices to fail when they need them the most. So remember these tips well—we hope you never have to read this article again.

Like the OP, I"ve always used a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water. Just now, I seem to have damaged the screen of my (Late 2013) MacBook Pro Retina by cleaning it with this mixture and a microfibre cloth.

There is a coating on the screen that has rubbed off in a patch about a quarter inch wide and two inches long. It"s very noticeable, but luckily it"s on the bezel rather than the screen proper. I"ll probably live with it, as a repair would probably involve replacing the whole screen. ($$$$)

This was possibly the third or fourth time that I"ve used this mixture to clean this screen in the few months that I"ve owned this machine. It"s really annoying to find that the most expensive laptop I"ve ever bought has a screen that can be so easily damaged, using a cleaner that I"ve seen recommended lots of times on the web and which has worked well for me in the past.

Don"t spray the screen because the mist can get in the sides and bottom/top of screen area and short out your monitor. Play it safe and spray the cloth. These things are expensive.

It is good to know that flannel is the best material to use to clean an LCD screen. I learned the hard way how important it is to use the right products to clean these screens. I was spraying on a general cleaner, with a paper towel and now my screen has a dull finish to it.

I am going to try the vinegar and water solution to see if this will help. I don"t have high hopes that my screen will look like new again, but now I know what not to do the next time I buy something that has an LCD screen.

I use a multipurpose biodegradable cleaner to clean my LCD screens. This is a diluted solution that I use to clean the glass in my home. I have never had any problem using this on my screens. I also use this on my iPad to get rid of all the fingerprints. I have found if I use this all the time it also seems to keep the fingerprints from building up as often.

I keep a small bottle of this mixed up all the time and always spray on the cloth before wiping the screen. I don"t mind the smell of vinegar so this doesn"t bother me. Because it is diluted in water it isn"t that strong anyway and quickly disappears.

You can use this cleaning solution for a lot of other uses in your home. It is safe for you and the environment and works just as good or better than cleaning products that have chemicals in them.

I have always wondered what was the best way to clean an LCD screen. After spending that much money on something I didn"t want to ruin it by using something I wasn"t supposed to. I have just taking a soft cloth and wiping away the dust when the screen is turned off. So far this has worked OK for me, but I like knowing I can use a liquid solution as long as I don"t directly spray on the screen.

First, you run the risk of having liquid run down between the diffusion layers on the LCD, or hitting the CCFL in there and shorting out your inverter.

It"s just as easy and safer to spray the cloth you wish to use rather than the screen itself. The screens are not sealed in anyway, so any drips can possibly cause damage if they get inside.

You don"t spray it on the screen because cleaners used to damage the seal on the bottom edge of the screen. I don"t believe is still happens as long as something reasonable is used. The warning is most likely still there simply to cover themselves if someone uses something that is much to harsh and allows it to drip down the screen.

I actually spray the liquid (i.e., eyeglass cleaner or the solution they make specifically for LCD screens) on the screen all the time, and haven"t noticed anything bad come of it. I think the fear is that the droplets from the spray makes permanent splotches on the screen. It"s there for only a brief second but maybe with the heat of the screen those splotches get burned in somehow? I"m not sure, but I"ve done it -- I wipe right away and do it when the screens turned off -- and I haven"t had any problems with it.

Cleaning wipes for use on monitors, touchscreens, whiteboards, LCD / LED / OLED TV screens, windows and glass doors, windscreens, and other extra-large surfaces.

These displays are not constructed to be touched. It"s very important to exercise care in the handling of a liquid crystal display. The tiny dots that make up the images on the screen are each a separate transistor/crystal. Pressure can "crack" pixels easily, and when the pixels are damaged, black spots fill those areas of your monitor.

Pressing and poking, whether with a dull object such as your finger, or a sharp object, such as a pen or knife, typically damages far more than one individual pixel.

Don"t attack a dusty monitor with a great deal of force, regardless of your cloth. Attacking a dusty monitor with anything transforms your wiper into a piece of fine gritted sandpaper. Use a Swiffer duster (the "feather duster" type with a handle... not the cloth), a microfiber or cotton cloth, or a can of compressed air to get the dust off before you clean with a liquid product.

Isopropyl alcohol at 100% would not be something you"d want to soak a piece of plastic in, but in a 50/50 combination with water (or even less) it will dissolve finger-print oil and many other marking agents and evaporate quite fast (thus while it may HARM plastic if left exposed it doesn"t get the chance) and it"s evaporation process forces the water around it to also evaporate quickly.

Don"t make the mistake of thinking that LCD screens work like your nifty new iPad. In general, touching should be off limits because pressing too hard on the screen can actually break or crack pixels. So the first rule to cleaning an LCD screen is don"t do it unless you have to (i.e. unless it"s actually dirty).

Many retailers offer special cleaning solutions for LCD screens, but the truth is that most of these are made up primarily of water. So, if you don"t want to take the time to go buy a cleaner or you want to save the money (maybe to put toward that "What Not to Wear" dress), you can just make your own LCD cleaner by mixing water with some vinegar or isopropyl alcohol -- the solution should be no more than 50/50.

You could even start with plain water and see if you need the vinegar or alcohol, which will come in handy when you"re trying to wipe away greasy fingerprints. Some people recommend only using distilled water, but regular water works fine, according to Dave Chipman from Sharp.

Unless you want to end up with a melted, discolored, hazy or scratched LCD screen, steer clear of all spray cleaners. In particular, don"t use any solvent cleaners that include acetone, ethyl alcohol, ethyl acid, ammonia or methyl chloride. You also want to avoid using any materials that could potentially scratch the screen"s delicate surface. Opt for a soft, clean, cotton cloth instead of wood-based products like paper towels and tissues. Chipman suggests using a microfiber cloth for best results.

If you"re lucky enough to have a service come in and do your cleaning for you, make sure they don"t inadvertently ruin your television or monitor by trying to clean it with something like glass cleaner. You should either take the time to explain -- and maybe even demonstrate -- how you want your LCD screen cleaned or just ask your cleaner to leave this particular job for you.

To clean your Apple Pencil, use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. With the damp cloth, wipe your Apple Pencil from the tip end—but not the tip itself—toward the other end of your Apple Pencil. Don’t allow moisture to get inside the seam between the tip and the body of your Apple Pencil.

To clean your polyurethane Smart Keyboard, Smart Keyboard Folio, Smart Cover, or Smart Case, first remove it from the iPad. Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Wipe the front and the inside with a soft, lint-free cloth.

To clean your Magic Keyboard, first remove it from the iPad. Use a soft, slightly damp, lint-free cloth. Wipe the front and the inside with a soft, lint-free cloth. You may use a 70 percent isopropyl alcohol wipe or Clorox Disinfecting Wipes. Avoid getting moisture in any opening, and don"t submerge your Magic Keyboard in any cleaning agents. Don"t use window cleaners, household cleaners, aerosol sprays, solvents, ammonia, abrasives, or cleaners containing hydrogen peroxide to clean this product.

Cleaning the leather might affect its color. If you choose to clean the leather, first remove the cover/case from your iPad. Use a clean cloth with warm water and mild hand soap to gently clean the leather. Wipe the outside and the inside with a soft, lint-free cloth to remove any dirt. You can also use a mild cleaner along with a dry clean cloth. Mild cleaners or conditioners might help remove some stains but might also change the color of the leather.

It is pretty normal to pause or hesitate when it comes to cleaning electronics. They represent a large investment and there is always some fear that the wrong cleaner will cause serious damage or leave behind something permanently streaky, especially when it comes to screens.

Computer screens represent a special situation, (please see below) but electronics, in general, are not as delicate as you might think. Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol may seem too strong but it is actually better than most cleaning products for maintaining your electronics collection. You just need to know how to use it.

Household rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol is great for cleaning electronics. It kills fungus, bacteria and viruses, including E. coli, S. aureus, and the coronavirus that causes COVID-19. TheCDC recommends a 70% diluted version for disinfecting homes and schools.

It can be convenient when you don’t like the smell or when you have a lot of electronics and only a little rubbing alcohol on hand. Keep in mind, though, that when it is diluted more than 50%, its effectiveness drops. If you are cleaning a computer in a crowded office you do not want the germ-killing power watered down.

It is important to distinguish isopropyl alcohol from ethyl alcohol. Isopropyl or rubbing alcohol is what you want for cleaning electronics. Ethyl alcohol is the type found in alcoholic beverages like vodka and in some cleaning products. It does not evaporate as fast and can leave an oily residue.

Almost everything on your computer, television and phone can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol just fine. Sometimes the anti-glare designs of some computer screens can be a bit delicate. Check manufacturer instructions the first time you clean any screen to make sure you get the right chemical.

It’s best not to spray rubbing alcohol or any kind of cleaner onto a screen or any other part of your electronics. There is a slight chance of the mist getting into speakers, keyboards or other crannies, which could impact performance. Pour some rubbing alcohol onto a cloth or cotton ball and use that to clean instead.

Paper towels might have been fine for old televisions with their glass screens but they do not work on modern screens. They can leave tiny scratches and residue.

Glass cleaners are formulated for windows and mirrors. Also, they don’t kill germs. Rubbing alcohol does. If you are cleaning a computer in an office during flu season you know how important this is.

This has a very high alcohol concentration so it will kill germs easily and dry quickly. It is well regarded and will work perfectly with a cotton ball or microfiber cloth.

Angie Parkinson is a writer for BestReviews. BestReviews is a product review company with a singular mission: to help simplify your purchasing decisions and save you time and money.

A variety of chemicals can be found throughout the electronic assembly and repair process, but no solvent appears more commonly than isopropyl alcohol. It is universally used for cleaning and as a main constituent of fluxes, but how much do you really know about isopropyl alcohol?

Isopropyl alcohol (CAS #67-63-0) is also referred to as IPA, isopropanol, 2-propanol, and even rubbing alcohol (more on that later). It dissolves a wide range of both polar and nonpolar soils, and is often used to dissolve and remove light oils, fingerprints, cutting fluids, flux residues, carbon deposits, and mold release. It is also readily miscible in water, which makes it an effective drying agent.

For electronic printed circuit board (PCB) assembly, you will find isopropyl alcohol being used either to clean flux residues from recently soldered circuit boards, or in PCB repair and rework. IPA is also used to remove solder paste or adhesive from SMT stencils. Maintenance cleaning with isopropyl alcohol is common for removing caked-on and burnt-on flux from SMT reflow ovens, wave soldering fingers, selective soldering nozzles, pallets, and anywhere else flux tends to collect in automated soldering processes.

Isopropyl alcohol is generally compatible with most materials used in electronics. As with any chemical product used, component compatibility must be determined on a non-critical area prior to use. The following are a list of common materials used in PCB assembly and their respective compatibility ratings:

When a solvent is not compatible with a substrate, it may cause crazing (micro-cracks) or soften the material. In the case of seals or gaskets, this incompatibility will cause parts to swell, shrink, or become brittle. This video shows an extreme example of acetone on polycarbonate, which causes it to fog, soften, and even scratch from contact with the plastic dropper.

Isopropyl alcohol is available in a large number of varieties and grades, which are generally differentiated by the amount of water in the solution and trace amounts of other chemicals or nonvolatile materials.

Isopropyl alcohol is hydrophilic, so it readily accepts water into an azeotropic solution. When you see on the label “70% isopropyl alcohol”, it refers to amount of alcohol in relation to the amount of dissolved water – i.e. 70% alcohol to 30% water. Water can be removed to form purer grades of isopropyl alcohol, resulting in what is called “anhydrous” isopropyl alcohol.

Whether an IPA has 0.2% or 50% water has little effect on the look and smell of the material, but greatly impacts surface tension (its ability to wet) and the dry time. The more water isopropyl alcohol contains, the greater the surface tension. This causes the solvent to bead up more as it dries rather than wet or sheet, which can lead to spotting. “Water spots” are particularly problematic when cleaning mirrors, lenses, and other optics.

The dry time is greatly increased as the percentage of water in the alcohol solution is increased. This can be an advantage or disadvantage depending on the application. For example, isopropyl alcohol is often used as a flux remover to remove flux residues from around solder joints. Technicians tend to prefer a fast dry time so that they can clean the electronics and bring them back into service as quickly as possible. When breaking down and removing thick, gummy, or baked-on materials, more dwell or soak time is required. Slowing down the dry time often improves the cleaning effectiveness. That is one of the reasons 70% pure isopropyl alcohol is commonly used for degreasing and SMT stencil cleaning. In the case of electrical contact cleaning, the faster evaporation time helps ensure that the flammable solvent is gone before energizing the equipment.

The general term “rubbing alcohol” is often used for isopropyl alcohol, but users looking to buy a specific grade of alcohol should avoid products labeled that way. Rubbing alcohol does not refer to a specific grade, and may even be a different type of alcohol, like ethanol (also called ethyl alcohol, CAS #67-17-5). Consumer rubbing alcohol can also contain other ingredients like denaturant, fragrances, and colorants that are potential contaminants. ASTM D770 (currently on revision 11(2019)) is the standard specification for isopropyl alcohol published by ASTM International.

As mentioned above, isopropyl alcohol is also available in different grades, or percentages of solvent to water, to fit a variety of specific applications. When deciding on the best isopropyl product for a particular manufacturing or repair process, first decide on the grade of solvent, then the packaging.

Bulk containers- Isopropyl alcohol is packaged in 1 gallon bottles, 5-gallon containers, 54-gallon drums, and even totes for automated dispensing. In most cases, a spigot can be attached to the 1 and 5 gallon containers for convenient dispensing in benchtop or workstation use. When transferring to another container, make sure the smaller bottle is properly marked with the chemical name and warning information.

Small bottles / spray bottles- To avoid the risk and hassle of pouring and labelling smaller containers, isopropyl alcohol is also available in smaller plastic containers like pints and quarts. Some have a trigger spray attachment for convenient cleaning.

Pump dispensers / dauber bottles- Empty bottles are available to make dispensing even more convenient. A wipe or swab can be saturated in the opening, which is filled with a valve when the user pushes down. This keeps the isopropyl alcohol sealed, which avoids cross contamination when a wipe is resaturated after use, causing it to draw in moisture from the ambient air. These bottles can come with a variety of features including ESD-safe materials and a selection of labels for standard chemicals like IPA.

Presaturated wipes- For the ideal mix of form and function, wipes are available, and are already saturated with isopropyl alcohol. They can come in pop-up tubs where the wipes are pulled up from the top, plastic boxes or pouches that reduce linting caused by wipe perforations, and even individually wrapped packages. The individually wrapped wipes are perfect for field maintenance because they fit neatly in a tool box.

Although isopropyl alcohol is generally considered safe if handled properly, it is a flammable solvent, so precautions need to be taken to prevent a dangerous situation from developing.

Storage- because isopropyl alcohol is very flammable, it needs to be stored in a closed container in a cool, well-ventilated area away from ignition sources like heat, sparks and flames. It has an NFPA rating of 3, so it should be stored in a cabinet or room designed for that type of hazardous material. If solvent is transferred to another container, make sure it is marked with the chemical name and required warning information.

Personal protection equipment- isopropyl alcohol has a tendency to defatten the skin, which means it draws out the protective oils from the skin and can lead to dermatitis if improperly handled. Gloves made of nitrile or other solvent-resistant materials should be worn. Glasses or even a face shield should be worn if the user is spraying an IPA product, or if splashing could occur. Respirators can be used if ventilation is not adequate enough to avoid breathing in a high concentration of vapors.

Disposal- isopropyl alcohol needs to be disposed of as a hazardous liquid according to state and local requirements. It certainly cannot be flushed down the drain, and additional disposal requirements may need to be followed depending on the soils dissolved in the waste material.

Safety Data Sheets (SDS)- The central resource for all safety requirements is the SDS, which should be readily available wherever isopropyl alcohol is used.

Is it any wonder isopropyl alcohol can be found in all corners of electronic PCB assembly, rework and repair operations? It is effective, reasonably priced, and safe if handled properly. To buy isopropyl alcohol in the grade and packaging that is best for your application, go to www.techspray.com.