fritzing tft lcd brands
I"m trying to get an off-brand (REXQualis) Arduino Nano to display anything at all to a cheap 1.8" SPI TFT display, as seen here. As far as I can tell, the Nano has a pinout identical to the official branded ones.
We’ve wrapped up all the Feathers, here’s a few that we haven’t blogged yet – all Feathers should now have lovely Fritzing objects! Thanks to Phil B for assisting with many of these!
The 2.8″ TFT LCD with Touchscreen Breakout Board with a MicroSD Socket and an ILI9341 controller display can be used to add a graphical user interface (GUI) to a project. The TFT (thin-film transistor) LCD (liquid crystal display) has a resolution of 240×320 pixels, which allows it to display detailed images and text. The touchscreen feature allows users to interact with the display by touching the screen. The MicroSD socket can be used to store and access data from a MicroSD card. The ILI9341 controller is responsible for driving the display and handling touch input. This breakout board can be used with a microcontroller to create a GUI for a project or application.
Please don"t mark this question as duplicated because I looked at the other guy he/she was using different guide.. the one I"m using is posted by the company I purchased the TFT from.
My design uses six 1.44-inch TFT LCD displays to display NIMO-style digits. These small LCD displays are cheap (around $3.50 US each) and use the ST7735 chipset and SPI bus. To drive the displays I’m using the Adafruit Metro M4. I found that a traditional ATmega328 based board wasn’t fast enough to update the displays once per second and didn’t have enough memory to store all the digits. The Metro M4 is fast, has plenty of memory and is compatible with the Adafruit ST7735 library.
I wanted to try to replicated the phosphorus CRT glow so I replaced the fairly dim white LED backlights of the LCDs with 16 WS2812B (NeoPixel) RGB LEDs. The digits are displayed on the LCDs as white characters on a dark background. The color is provided by the NeoPixel backlights. Finally, I used plano-convex lenses (LED flashlight condenser lenses) placed directly in front of the LCDs to create a tube-like appearance.
There are several different versions of these 1.44” LCD displays available on eBay and AliExpress. I recommend using the photos above (Figs 1-3) to identify the correct version when shopping for displays. If you are unable to find the exact version you may need to modify the 3D-printed parts to fit your displays. More on this in Step 3.
In order to use RGB LEDs to backlight the LCD the LCD must be separated from its circuit board. Very carefully slide a utility knife blade between the LCD and circuit board (Fig 4) to cut through the adhesive holding the two together. Take care not to damage the delicate flex cable or your fingers. Repeat on the other side (Fig 5).
My LCD displays have an LED pin but it doesn’t seem to be connected to the LED backlight. In order to disable the LED backlight I had to cut the two leads (Fig 10) connecting the LED to the circuit board. If your displays have a functional LED pin you can skip this step and simply leave the LED pin disconnected. Take care not to damage the flex cable when cutting the LED leads. You should now be able to carefully fold the LCD back from the circuit board (Fig 11). Repeat for the other five displays and set aside.
The LCDs, lenses and LEDs are held in the correct orientation by a 3D-printed holder (Fig 12). Each modular holder houses two LCDs, lenses and LED boards. To build a six digit clock you will need three holders. There is also a lid for each holder that is printed separately. M3 size heated inserts are used to provide mounting points for the lid and for panel mounting the holder.
The holders are printed with the LCD slot and lens ring facing up (Fig 13). Printing in this orientation helps to ensure the dimensional accuracy of the critical parts of the holders and provides a good finish on the most visible surfaces. I used 1.75mm PLA filament with a 0.2mm layer height, 0.8mm wall thickness and 60% infill with support. The same settings are used for the lid but support is not needed.
Once the holders are printed the support material can be removed (Figs 15-18). Needle nose pliers can be used to help remove most of the material. A stiff piece of wire or a tool such as a lock pick can help remove the material from the LCD slot. The LCD slot requires particular attention when removing the support material as even a small amount of material will make it very difficult to slide the LCD into the slot.
The holders were modeled in Autodesk Fusion 360. The Fusion 360 files are included and can be modified as needed. It may be necessary to change the dimensions of the LCD slots if different LCDs are used.
The WS2812B RGB LED (NeoPixel) backlights are wired as shown in the above Fritzing circuit diagram (Fig 24). The NeoPixels are controlled using an Arduino Pro Mini board due to a shortage of pins on the Metro M4. The Pro Mini could be substituted with a Nano, Uno or most any Arduino board that is comparable with the Adafruit NeoPixel library. The NeoPixels require a well regulated 5V supply to operate and should not be connected to a standard “wall wart” as these are typically unregulated. In this case, they share the same 5V supply used to power the rest of the project. To further protect the NeoPixels from voltage spikes a 1000uF electrolytic capacitor (C3) is placed across the 5V input.
The NeoPixel data signal must be wired in series across all six boards as shown in the circuit diagram (Fig 24). A short jumper wire is used to connect the Data Out and Data In connections of each pair of boards. Jumper wires with Dupont connectors are used to connect the Data Out and Data In connections of the three pairs together. This allows the LCD holder modules to be disconnected from each other without having to remove the LED boards. The Data In connection of the first board is wired to a pin on the Arduino through a 470 Ohm resistor (R1).
The LCDs and the DS3231 Real Time Clock (RTC) module are connected to the Metro M4 as shown in the above Fritzing circuit diagram (Fig 27). The LCDs require 3.3V DC to operate rather than the 5V DC used to power the rest of the project. This 3.3V DC supply is provided by a simple circuit consisting of a 3.3V regulator (LD1117V33), 100nF ceramic capacitor (C1) and 10 uF electrolytic capacitor (C2).
In order to simplify the various connections and enhance the reliability of the clock a power/interface board (Fig 28) was constructed. I used a 5cm X 7cm proto board with solder pads on both sides. Standard 2.54mm (0.1 in) female headers were cut down to create three 2x7 pin connectors, one for each LCD module. A 2x9 pin connector provides the CS (Chip Select), RST (Reset) and A0/DC (Data Command) connections to the Metro. A separate 2 pin connector provides the SDA (MOSI) and SCK (Clock) connections to the Metro. The MOSI and Clock pins of all six LCD displays are connected to these pins.
The LCD circuit boards are mounted in the LCD/lens holders with the pins pointing downward. I used 3cm X 7 cm proto boards to make right angle adapters (Fig 30) for each module. A piece of female header is soldered along one edge of the board. Right angle male headers are soldered next to the female header pins corresponding to the pins on the LCDs. The solder connections are bridged on the back of the board (Fig 31). Be sure to double check that the position of the right angle header pins is correct before soldering them in, it’s easy to get them one pin off.
The connections between the power/interface board and the LCDs are made with 30cm (12 in) male to female Dupont jumpers (Fig 32). To make the connections easier I removed the single pin Dupont connectors and substituted two 7 pin connectors on the LCD end and one 2x7 pin connector on the board end. It is also possible to purchases the jumpers without the connectors installed. The connections between the power/interface board and the Metro M4 are made with male to male Dupont jumpers. Note that 8 pin right angle headers were used on the right angle adapter boards in the photos. The LED pin on the LCDs is not used so that pin is not connected (Fig 33). Double check that the pinout of the LCDs matches the wiring of your cables before proceeding to the next step.
Place one of the 28mm condenser lenses in each of the lens sockets of the LCD holder (Fig 34). The lenses should fit snugly but it may be necessary to keep the front of the holder facing down until the LCDs are installed to keep the lenses from falling out. Check the inside of the lenses and the front of the LCDs for dust. Remove dust with a microfiber cloth before proceeding. A few stray dust particles should not be visible when the clock is operating.
Slide an LCD into the LCD slot (Fig 35). Ensure that the front of the LCD is facing the lens. Avoid excessive force when inserting the LCD; the LCD should fit snugly but not so tight that it can’t be removed. It may be necessary to remove stray support material from the slot if the LCD won’t go in. The bottom of the LCD should be flush with the bottom of the holder (Fig 36). Repeat for the second LCD (Fig 37).
Slide a piece of plastic or cardboard into the slot in the bottom of the holder (Fig 38). This piece supports the LCD boards and helps prevent damage to the flex cables connecting the boards and the LCDs. Small pieces of tape can be used to hold this piece in place during testing and hot glue can be used for a semi-permeant solution.
Line up the pins on the right angle adapter board with the pins on the LCD boards (Fig 39). Double check that the pins are in the correct position and plug the LCDs into the adapter board (Fig 40).
Connect the LCD wiring harnesses to the power/interface board and connect the power/interface board to the Metro M4. Connect the RTC to the Metro M4. Connect the Data In connector of the first LED board to pin 10 of the Arduino Pro Mini through a 470 Ohm resistor. Double check that all connections match the circuit diagram. See the above photo (Fig 44) for reference.
I made a power distribution board (Figs 46 & 47) to provide power connections for the LCD modules and Metro M4. The LCD power wires with JST connectors are connected to this board. A short wire with JST connector is used power the Metro M4 on the VIN and GND pins. The power distribution board, power/interface board and Arduino Pro Mini are connected to the power socket (Fig 44).
The completed clock is shown in a temporary case. Future plans include construction of a plastic or metal case and the addition of one or more switches to control various functions. The LCD modules (see Step 3) were designed with threaded inserts for panel mounting.
Adding a character display to your project or computer has never been easier with this USB or TTL serial backpack produced by Adafruit! This custom-designed PCB allows you to connect the back of any 16x2 or 20x4 character LCD (and even support the RGB backlight LCD).
It can do everything you want: printing text, automatic scrolling, setting the backlight, adjusting contrast, making custom characters, turning on and off the cursor, etc. You can also connect a RGB backlight LCD controlled with 3 pins having a 8-bit PWM control. So you can create a background color having almost any color you want - red, green, blue, pink, white, purple yellow, teal, salmon, chartreuse. You can even switch the backlight off for a neutral background. For the non-RGB backlights LCD, the standard backlight LED will be wired on the RED pin as the LCD controler. So, you will be able to controle the backlight luminosity by controling the the RED color of this backpack :-)
Inside this backpack is an USB-capable AT90USB162 chip. It listens the commands on both a mini-B USB port and a TTL serial input wire. The USB shows up as a COM/serial port on Windows/Mac/Linux. The backpack will automatically select data the interface connecter on the board. For the USB connection, it will work at any baud rate. For the TTL connection, the default baud rate is 9600 (you can change it by sending a command to set the baud rate to 2400, 4800, 9600, 19200, 28800 or 57600 baud). The baud rate is displayed on the LCD during powerup.
The command interface is compatible with the popular "Matrix Orbital" specifications so this backpack will work perfectly with computer applications or libraries that are expecting a "Matrix" LCD such as "LCD Smartie". Adafruit added few extra commands to change the RGB backlight and setting the LCD size.
If you don"t want to get bored with the commands, you can simply send ASCII characters to the LCD and it will appear on the LCS as "typed" on the interface.
using Meadow;using Meadow.Devices;using Meadow.Foundation;using Meadow.Foundation.Displays.Tft;using Meadow.Foundation.Graphics;using Meadow.Foundation.Sensors.Temperature;using Meadow.Hardware;using Meadow.Peripherals.Sensors.Atmospheric;using System;namespace TemperatureMonitor{public class MeadowApp : App
Ms.Josey 
Ms.Josey