balitensen mks tft display brands

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Yes, it is absolutely safe to buy BALITENSEN 3D Printer 2.8 Inch Full Color Touch Screen LCD MKS TFT28 V1.2 from desertcart, which is a 100% legitimate site operating in 164 countries. Since 2014, desertcart has been delivering a wide range of products to customers and fulfilling their desires. You will find several positive reviews by desertcart customers on portals like Trustpilot, etc. The website uses an HTTPS system to safeguard all customers and protect financial details and transactions done online. The company uses the latest upgraded technologies and software systems to ensure a fair and safe shopping experience for all customers. Your details are highly secure and guarded by the company using encryption and other latest softwares and technologies.

If you want to change some function or add new function and so on, you can refer to MKS TFT source code and build it, update it to MKS TFT, Link as below:

For more product dynamic information and tutorial materials, you can always follow MKS"s Facebook/Twitter/Discord/Reddit/Youtube and Github. Thank you!

Hi The Marlin firmware for the MKS-TFT32 on a MKS Gen v1.4 board will not compile. Can you please check your file and post the correct working version

What are the changes in the configuration for the the MKS-TFT32 display? I am using the latest version of Marlin 1.1 RC8 and I want to keep using that version.

Same here. I got sent v1.3 of the tft28 display. I turned it on without the sd card and it says “printready” with a bunch of blank icons. I am doing everything right. The SD card is set to fat32 with the 3 files in place. I have tried firmware 1.1.5 and 1.2. Both firmwares will update, but right after, it just says “spi loader PID Erasing”

I just wanted to add that I was having this issue and following this step solved it, at least for me. I had tried to update the MKS-TFT28 firmware before installing Marlin, and that’s when the odd images showed. I installed Marlin and then reinstalled the MKS-TFT28 firmware and all is back to normal.

Hello, i’m using TFT28 on RAMPS 1.4 , is there any way to make it work when i print from computer ? to display temperatures and other info like 12864 graphic LCD does ?

but if i print from COMPUTER through USB the TFT28 remain in main screen, does not show temperatures , fan speed or progress of printing like other lcd displays.

Hi I got the mks 1.5 board and the touch screen 3.2. Evey thing seems to work, till i go to print from the usb. Then the printer just sits there. I can move all axis I can pre heat and home all axis. and i can print from computer but stand alone cant print. Any ideals whats wrong

I have a MK Gen board, a TFT28 and a WIFI module. When the wifi module is plugged into the TFT28 and power is applied to the Gen board nothing happens. Without the wifi the Gen and the TFT power up no problem. Is this a firmware problem? Or a power problem. Right now I am on the bench using USB cable to power everything.

Hello. I purchased MKS SBASE V1.3 + MKS TFT32 3.2” LCD Touch Display. Please help me to connect the display to the base. Menu is working, but info from the base not receive.

I have the MKS SBASE V1.3 & MKS TFT32 3.2″.After updating the firmware I noticed there no long has the ‘Set>Connect’ icon. How do I change the baud rate now? Or even see what it is set to.

Today I got a MKS TFT 3.2 in a bundle with a MKS sbase. I connected it with the AUX1 ports on both devices and plugged the board into an USB port. The board seems to work, but the TFT is just dead. On pictures in the internet I can see that there should at least light up a LED on the backside, but there is nothing.

I just noticed that the TFT gets its 5V not from the USB but from the 12V that I had not connected to this time. I had the impression from some picture in the internet that the display would work with just USB power from the board too. Now with 12V attached it works.

I would like to use a sketch of Marklin from another source. What is different about your version? Can you provide the code and where it goes so I can put it into another version? I am using the tft 3.2 controller. Many thanks!

Hi my TFT32 dose not seem to communicate with my mks sbase 1.3 connections are all OK firmware is updated to v2. however when you press on any of the icons nothing happens any ideas

I just assumed it was an upgraded version, but now I’m reading that they are completely different boards. I ordered the SBASE because I wanted to run smoothieware. Am I correct to assume that I can not install smoothieware on the MKS BASE v1.5?

Hi, please follow the instruction for MKS BASE V1.5 board to install firmware: https://osoyoo.com/2016/06/30/mks-1-4-3d-printer-board-marlin-firmware-installation-guide/

Elaine, I should clarify that I ordered the SBASE v1.3 from a seller on Amazon 4 months ago, but received the wrong board. I haven’t had a chance to start setting it up until now. Is it still true that the 32TFT in not compatible with RAMPS 1.4? If it’s not compatible with RAMPS 1.4, then can I install Smoothieware on the BASE v1.5, or can you tell me what my other options are?

My new mks tft32 touch screen is only showing one extruder.I have a tevo tarantula with dual extruders.Is there any way to show both extruders on the screen please?

Is the source code of the TFT32 available somewhere? Because most of the current menus are useless to me and I need to reconfigure my TFT32 to more useful functions for my CNC.

Hi. I just got a new FLSun Cube printer with the TFT32 screen and the mks gen l v1.0 main board. When I changed the custom loading graphic from the standard RepRap logo to my own graphic following the instructions in the guide, I get an FLSun logo overlayed in the middle of my graphic. Where is this logo coming from?

I purchased 2 of these. One to use on a Smoothieware board and the other to use on a Rambo 1.1 printer. I didn’t realize this had different connectors than those on the Rambo. Is there an adapter which will permit me to use the KINGPRINT 3D Printer Controller Board MKS TFT32 with a Rambo 1.1 board?

I was rebuilding one of my 3D printers — again — and decided I needed a display upgrade. A color screen is nice, but there are some limitations. I also found there are ways around these limitations, so I wanted to share my thoughts on a dual-mode color touch screen LCD controller for your 3D printer. The screen in question is a TFT35 from BigTree Tech. It is similar to an MKS screen, but it can operate in two different modes, as you will see.

A few years ago, I picked up an Anet A8 which was very inexpensive, especially on sale. Not the best printer, though, because it has that cheap acrylic frame. No problem. A box full of aluminum extrusion later, the printer was reborn. Over time, I’ve completely reworked the extrusion system and the Y-axis, leaving only the motors, bearings, and the controller/display as the original.

There’s another way to control a printer, and it’s one you may have thought of before. Since the printer accepts commands via a serial port, you could take a computer like a Raspberry Pi with a nice LCD and just have it issue commands to the serial port. Bonus points if the board has more than one serial port so you can still hook up a PC or a Raspberry Pi running Octoprint or similar. Turns out, you don’t have to build this. The MKS touchscreen uses an ARM chip (it isn’t a Pi, though) and has a touch screen that you can use to control the printer. These come in different sizes and are usually called something like TFT35 for 3.5 inch display.

The advantage isn’t just appearance. Having a bunch of touch screen buttons makes many things easier. For example, if the printer is at (0,0) and you want to jog the head to (100,200), that ends up being a lot of button pushes in Marlin. With the touch display, you can bring up a navigation screen that makes it easy. Or, you can bring up an entire terminal and enter G-code. When you press Send, it shows the results of the command, if any. You can set a temperature with the knob, on-screen buttons, or press the number and type in what you want with a virtual keypad.

These displays are colorful and nice, but there are a few things they can’t do. Marlin has some wizards and user interaction that insist on a proper, local LCD. But the Marlin code thinks the MKS display is a remote host computer, connected over serial. Displays that can act like both types of LCDs are a sweet hack, and here’s the part that was never clear to me before: these displays can switch modes during printer operation. In other words, it is not a case of selecting a mode and rebooting everything. You can be looking at the colorful touchscreen, then switch over to the stock display while printing and then switch back any time you want. The best of both worlds.

On the face of it, the display looks like an MKS TFT. You have colorful menus and a touch screen. The connection for that is a simple two-wire serial port, along with — of course — power, ground, and an optional reset connection. They provide a cable you can use or modify to connect to your setup. There is also an EXT3 port for boards that have that connector.

If all you want is an MKS display, you are done. Since the display looks like a host computer, you don’t even have to recompile Marlin if the serial port you used was active. In my case, the second serial port wasn’t set up, so I had to recompile, but I do that often enough, anyway.

However, if you wire the normal EXT1 and EXT2 ribbon cables to your printer, the display can emulate a normal 128×64 LCD. If you are already set up to use one of these displays, you should not need to recompile Marlin to use this display. However, if you are set up for a different type of display, you’ll need to tell Marlin to use the normal “REPRAP DISCOUNT GRAPHICS CONTROLLER.”

Here’s what I never understood about the device. Looking at the write-up about it on different vendor sites like Amazon, Banggood, or AliExpress, it sounded like you could use the screen in either mode as a static configuration choice. In other words, you might wire up EXT1 and EXT2 and then use the emulated mode until you decided to switch over to serial at some future date. But that’s not how it works. You can connect all the cables and switch back and forth between display systems on the fly.

That’s huge. It means you can have a nice user interface that lets you control the printer, print from an SD card or USB stick, and even make customizations to the menu with the source code provided on GitHub or with a simple configuration file edit. (And, yes, you can add custom menu items simply.) But when you need to do something very specific to Marlin, or a new feature shows up that the LCD doesn’t know about yet, you can simply switch to the Marlin display mode. Then you can switch back.

Installing the LCD was straightforward save a few problems. For some reason, the pin 1 designation for EXP1 and EXP2 are not consistent among vendors. A Geeetech display worked fine with the Spider board, but the TFT35 didn’t want to come up in Marlin mode at all. I applied power at the serial port and the board appeared hung. The answer was to snip off the alignment tabs on the ribbon cables and flip them 180 degrees.

The serial port was also a mystery. With so little documentation on anything, I just soldered the power and ground wires and then hand twisted RX and TX so I could swap them until it worked. As I expected, the cable needed a cross on those lines to work. You also have to match the display’s baud rate to the port you are using.

After that, it all worked fine. The EXP1 and EXP2 connectors do connect to the board’s reset, so you don’t need to wire the serial port’s reset pin if you have those connected. However, I did notice that switching the mainboard to DFU mode will sometimes fail with the display plugged in. Reflashing the display requires an SD card that flashes a binary file and then reboots and loads fonts and icons. If it is connected to the Spider, it sometimes hangs when trying to reboot during an update. It also works sometimes, though, so I suspect it is just loading on the reset line. In any event, popping the connectors will make it work if you don’t want to try repeatedly.

The display has a number of other ports, but you probably shouldn’t use them. For example, there’s a port for a filament runout sensor. But if you connect it there, it will only work if you are printing using an SD card or USB stick in the display. A better option is to connect it to your printer and tell Marlin to notify the host if a filament break occurs. This will work with the display or something like Octoprint.

In theory, you should be able to connect Octoprint itself through one of the extra serial ports. However, I never got this to fully work. The subordinate port seems to work pretty well, but it never sends Octoprint acknowledgments so Octoprint waits forever or until you force it to continue — use the Fake Acknowledgment button in the terminal. Since the Spider has multiple serial ports, it isn’t a big deal, but in theory, the TFT should work a little better if it can intercept and filter the data stream between the printer and the host software. In practice, I don’t really notice any problems. Some Octoprint plugins like DisplayLayer can send status information to the TFT, anyway.

Another note: Using the jog keys sets the printer to relative mode. If you are used to popping codes into a terminal, you might want to get used to issuing a G90 before you send a move because the TFT will change it to relative anytime you do a jog.

These displays are inexpensive and easy to interface and since they can still work as a classic display, there’s no reason not to do this easy upgrade. There are plenty of mounting options you can print, of course. The finished result looks great and doing things like moving in both X and Y are much easier with the new display.