neato xv-12 lcd panel illuminates but no text factory

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Unfortunately I have had this same problem twice on my Neato XV (two years apart). Both times the problem was a broken LCD display card, replacing the card fixed the problem. I was able to buy a used Neato XV LCD display card on eBay for about $40. Amazon may have them too.

Follow the Neato XV-21 repair guide on ‘Motherboard Repair’ (thank you Nastassja Klipsch!!) Until you get the two halves of the robot apart. There are a ton of screws, so if I have to do this again I will take better care to write down where they all came from (I started to forget).

You don’t need to remove the Lidar unit, so stop at that point in the guide. The LCD display card is screwed into the top shell of the robot. Once you get the robot apart it is pretty easy to disconnect the cable connector and replace the display.

These are Scratch and Dent XV-21 vacuums. They may have blemishes. Rest assured these are only cosmetic issues, and do not affect the unit’s functions.

This is decidedly un-meh of me but I own this vacuum and want to testify. I love this vacuum. In fact I just bought a replacement battery for this vacuum. Why buy a new one when this one is working great?

I"ve owned it for about 3 years. When it works it"s great, but the other 2 out of 3 times you"ll have to deal with the dreaded "My brush is stuck" error. For everyone who buys one, please copy and paste the following:

I have the answer to the "brush is stuck"! The motor shaft under the brush that attaches to the turning belt will get clogged with hair. You need to purchase a seam removal tool. The one I bought has a long curved blade and a long thin handle. It is called "Havels Ultra-Pro Seam Ripper". Use this tool gently sawing back and forth, slowly rotating the hub with the belt after the brush is removed. Then use long tweezers to flip the cut debris out. It takes some work and patience, don"t cut the belt! But once you are used to this maintenance you can fix the "brush is stuck" error message.

These vacuums are awesome. Neato, keep up the good work. If I didn"t already own one of these, I would be getting one today. But I have one. And it"s awesome.

Being the proud companion of a bright shiny new Roomba 790, I feel obliged to say that the "Neato" is trying just a little too hard and her bony angularity is entirely unattractive. She"s got nothing on you, Roomie.

I would love one but.... Even our Dyson (model 14, and they"re up to what - Dyson 367"s?) gets clogged with fur. We have newfoundlands, who constantly shed entire tumbleweed-sized wads of fur.

So I worked in a robotics lab last semester and we used these. I have no idea how good of a vacuum it is but I can comment on what it"s like to program it.

These Neatos don"t support ROS out of the box and require a bit of fiddling (software-wise) to get them to work. But after that you can fairly easy program them in Python. They have this 360 degree spinning laser sensor that is fairly accurate and great for mapping/navigating. We had these and the much cheaper iRobot Creates (Roombas without vacuums) and the Creates were much easier to develop for but these were way more powerful because of the sensor.

I got mine yesterday. Set it on the charger, almost right away it said it was fully charged but wanting the most out of the battery I left it on the charger 24 hours. I turned it on it made a hard turn stopped hard turn in reverse. I moved it to a carpeted area hard turns, seems like 1 wheel is stuck. Now battery is dead. Ran for 3-5 Minutes. Any advice?

Hmm it arrived today, but it doesn"t seem to want to charge at all. The power brick in the charging base is powered on, and I slide the bot up against the charger and it powers up. The screen stayed on and it kept beeping and never died, but never charged.

Can"t get mine to work either. Took it out of the box, plugged in the charging station, placed the unit up against the bumpers, and pressed the power button. The LED goes green, orange, off very quickly. If I hold it down it"ll go to red and slowly die as if I"m choking it to death.

Received mine. It is pretty beat up with scratches all over especially the flat part that sticks out on top - as if someone dragged it against rough concrete. No biggie I suppose.

Mine arrived defective: it does nothing but give me the solid amber light and the "problem with battery" message, and won"t move at all after 24 hours of charging.

2) If it is a household chore tied to say, computer, phone, etc. use or driving and you say "take as long as you want to do a good job vacuuming and when you are done you can drag race down main street or put a smoke bomb in the high school ventilating system the friday afternoon before a 3 day weekend" they will fly through the task doing a reasonably decent job.

So I got mine...unboxed it and charged it overnight. Ran it once and it worked like a charm. Amazing! After it was done, it actually found its way back to the charger. Then, deep sadness set it. I got the dreaded battery error 0002 - goggled it and found out it"s fairly common. Apparently, the way the battery connects to the unit (with those plastic plugs with wire "tubes" and pins) is severely prone to faltering. And falter they did. I"d have to do several manipulations (holding down the power button, unplugging the batteries, resetting the battery status (to new battery selection on the unit"s menu). I contacted Meh...who I knew going in would not be helpful (no offense...well...OK, some offense), and got the proverbial "not our problem...contact Neato". So I did via chat, and they promptly ran through some troubleshooting (which I already did on my own)...which of course didn"t help. They quickly agreed to send me a new unit for $25 shipping...and all I said in reply was "Ouch...that stinks"...and he immediately waived the shipping charge. So within 1 week, I should get a replacement unit for free, and will ship the busted one back. Slight hassle-factor, but I"m optimistic so far. I DO VERY MUCH like the job it did whilst it was running.

This is how it worked out of the box... Received with minor blemishes; obviously a refurbished robot. I let the battery charge fully, it ran for about 10 minutes before a message displayed saying it was returning to base to recharge. It made it to about 1 meter shy of the base. So, like a puppy that was kicked too hard, I picked it up and crammed it onto the base. Once fully charged, it ran for about 20 minutes, then repeated the aforementioned failure to return to the base. Third time was a charm, it fully charged, cleaned several rooms of carpet and hardwood and successfully returned to base. Ran beautifully for a week until the dreaded 002 error appeared. The fix was to remove both batteries (there are two; one by each wheel) and reattach them.

I love the idea of my Neato. I have always wanted one ever since my brother had a rumba! This is my problem… I am blind. I have a problem when it comes to the feedback that Neato gives as to his state of mind. Do either of you think that it would be possible to add components to him that would make his error message voice aloud? It already has a sort of speaker since he makes noise with beeps and such. If it could be done I would gladly try the experiment. When the bot is doing its thing it is wonderful but… when he has problems I have to guess as to what his problem might be. Kinda like figuring what is wrong with the new born baby (which I don’t have).

@silverqueen If I remember correctly (the parts aren"t in front of me right now), the screen is its own separate module, so it may be possible to intercept the messages being sent to it and route them to a text-to-speech interpreter and a speaker. I"ll do some research and let you know.

@silverqueen unfortunately I don"t think I"ll be helpful. What we did, basically, is we wiped his little Neato brain and then told him to do stupid stuff like using his laser to create a map of a hallway or we put a long pole on him and tried to make him use an elevator. But we didn"t MODIFY his software. In fact, no one in our lab even did anything with the vacuum part. So even if I knew off the top of my head how to make him talk (which I don"t. I"d have to think about it or do some research like @harrison) I wouldn"t be able to modify the Neato software. The best I could do is rewrite it and I doubt I"d be able to do that as effectively as the Neato people.

@Harrison Oh, that is so cool of you! Thanks for looking at it! I love my little toy and want to be able to do it all by meslf but.. What wonderfull news to hear. If there is anything you want me to look up let me know. I"ll try!

Does anyone know if the refurbished models came out with the latest software? The article tells how to find out but I am not at home to check. Hmmmmm I wonder if they are open for suggestions?

@TheYoz Thanks for looking. How do you like your little friend? I do love mine. I am so happy when I come home to find him back under the table where he lives and find his dirt bin loaded. So cool!!! I hate to vacuum and now I have my own little bot to do it for me. Kinda like those ferries that are supposed to show up and do the stuff I leave at work but… they never do!!! This guy will, so long as he hasn’t had any problems. He gets stuck under my kitchen table a lot! HaHaHa Howeve4r my dog ABSOLUTLY HATES him! He can’t decide if he wants to kill it or run away! He barks and growls while backing away. Hilarious to watch him! I don’t get it . He doesn’t behave like that with the old vacuum or the Swiffer vac. Why is a robot different?

@silverqueen is it the battery cover that broke or the actual outer casing? I haven"t seen any of those extra parts for sale, but you could probably call Neato support and ask them. They were super easy to deal with when I had to call

@silverqueen I"m not familiar with the Neato, so can"t picture the part you are talking about. However, I"d recommend ebay for parts. When I needed a plastic part for my Dyson, I was able to find it easily on ebay. A quick look shows that there are plenty of Neato parts, too. A lot of the parts are recycled, but as long as it"s in good shape that doesn"t phase me.

@Kleineleh To be quite honest, I don’t know what it is covering. I just know that if you flip it over so wheels are up and the brush side is facing you, the door on the right hand side by the wheel broke on both ends at the screw heads. I can’t figure out how that might have happened unless the screws were over tightened. It is right now taped closed but I don’t expect that will work long. When I first got this little guy I wrote to them and got the canned “Thank you for contacting us… you are important to us…”response email but never got the follow up answer from a real employee. Maybe I should try calling them?

@silverqueen Well that"s disappointing that you never heard back. Yeah, maybe try calling. That"s what I did and they were incredibly friendly and helpful. At the very least, maybe they can help you figure out exactly which part you need so you can look for it on ebay like, @gio said, or just order it from them if it"s cheap enough

@silverqueen This site http://www.robotshop.com/en/neato-replacement-parts.html has some Neato parts. The prices are high, but if they have the right part you could get a part number to use in searching for better prices. Too bad they don"t have a bigger selection.

Well, my Neato has now been dead for over a week now. As some might have heard, the Neato gets this sort of "Dim Green Light" on the button without the LCD displaying anything. Some suggest pulling out the batteries overnight. I was experiencing this frequently before and used that technique. Now it appears it no longer works.

I hate to say it, but these Neato refurbished products are so popular because Neato gets so many new returns that require repairs. The repairs are only good temporarily as their warranty shows (the item they constantly have problems with is their batteries which they only cover for 6 months).

If anyone ever sees another Neato offer on Meh or Woot or any other site please please please DO NOT PURCHASE. So far I have not received any support from Neato and I am waiting to see what Meh says. This product has been ok for about 8-9 months (keep in mind I have had to reset this device several times in the past month).

@Phenomenon101 I was fortunate to receive a working Neato scratch and dent in a Fuku. It"s battery life is very bad, thouhgh, and while I really like the unit, I am torn over spending $40 on a set of replacement batteries because of stories like this. Don"t want to take an amazing almost free thing and make it a money pit. But, I suppose $40 is still very good.

@Phenomenon101 I"ve had some success plugging a cell phone charger into the service port on the back of the unit while it is docked. Hold down the start button until the green light goes off. Unit restarts. Unplug cell phone charger and replace rubber plug. If battery life is bad, select new batteries from the support menu and the unit will recalibrate. May not be a fix, but at least a band aid.

@Unclebeard No, in the end it was a faulty capacitor which Neato was fixing them with. I had to order them and replace it myself. Not too bad (just need a soldering iron and the capacitors), but still pretty stupid that Neato was refurbishing them with the same capacitor that burnt out for all other version. Since then, it works like a champ though. Good luck if this happens to you though. It"s like a green ring of death for Neatos.

@Phenomenon101 Is this a repair someone could do with moderate soldering experience? I"ve got a new multi-meter coming in this week to check the batteries when they are fully charged. If the batteries look good, I"m guessing this capacitor is my problem too.

One of them got very hot and started to melt through its casing after their first use. YMMV, seems like a bad solder joint on the battery. Not sure what I"ll do now for batteries. Waiting on a return label from the seller (ebay).

Has anyone tried the spendy lithium replacement batteries? They have limited reviews, mostly good, but at least a couple look like shills. My concern is if they"re really lithium cells and if they overheat.

Yes definitely. Its just two contacts to unsolder. Of course be careful when taking it apart to not cut any ribbon cables or mess with the guidance lenses.

@hek we have plenty of hydro alcoholic gel available here in Vietnam, and they all contain ethanol and not IPA, which is a skin irritant and doesn"t seem to be a good idea to use for hand sanitizer as you need high concentration for alcohol to be efficient on the virus. You should change the recipe of your "quick and easy" version, to use ethanol as recommended by WHO.

For the survival of the virus new studies show a survival up to 3 days on some surfaces like inox. But that"s the best case scenario for the virus, on most surfaces and in most conditions it seems it will just die in a matter of hours. So unless you have a very fast shipping (would be surprising with the number of international flights plummeting), you have nothing to fear.

And now the main risk if you are in the US, EU etc is probably from the employees of the delivery company, as there are probably way more active cases in the US/EU than in China outside of the Hubei province. So when you receive a package, open it outside, get rid of the packaging, and if you"re paranoid let it wait a few days in garage/storage room. Then wash your hands carefully, and you risk nothing.

My next issue is the humidity seems to be off. It has read as high as 115% humidity. Is this normal or should I be considering a correction? If so, how would I enter a correction. Its a little odd considering it states that the accuracy is much tighter than that.

I think there is no way a cheap sensor can actually make a precise measurement to detect humans in a room, but a system with that kind of sensors and a image processing device it could make a more reliable solution, but would go in the expensive solutions.

I did not yet try out all the things i like (like Slack bot, or running scripts, combining multiple sensors in one graph,.. etc.), but so far: i"m impressed.

The only thing worth mentioning is: One should take time to read the documentation well before start changing the config file. It"s not so hard to comprehend but i guess for some it can get complicated handling so many nested structures. A good editor, to change the config, can make things a lot easier (one that can collapse/expand, or even correct syntax).

I also found the logparser did not handle certain log entries, such as the logfile produced by the mysensors gateway on raspberry pi, e.g. prefixed with timestamps, etc.

Another upside is that it doesn"t draw a lot of current ~0.5A, though I haven"t been successful in getting the radio to run (the reason for me being here) This is also a downside as I suspect the power supply needs to be very close to 5V. Thinking it was a power hog like the RPi, I used a 5V-3A supply. This supply operates on the principle that the load will pull down the voltage. There are dire warnings on the orangepi page about using cheap SD cards, but failed to mention that power supplies have to be matched, too.

The big downside is that the SPI interface is not supported. My research indicates that in order to get it to work one must jump through some serious hoops and being low on the learning curve, those hoops are probably out of my reach. https://forum.armbian.com/topic/21688-tips-on-configuring-double-spi-through-two-chipselects-on-orange-pi-zero-2/

The armbian OS has another big downside, WiFi is not supported. Putting a TP-Link nano router configured as a client works, but it"s another $30! Why did they even release the OS?

The first pic is just of the Orange Pi and my gateway. The gateway is connected through one of the serial ports on the Orange Pi"s GPIO pins. It can"t be seen in the pic, but the top USB plug is for the external hard drive that has the OS on it.

This pic includes my USB hub. The thing in slot 3 of the hub is my 1-Wire interface. The breadboard was from some things I had set up on my old R-Pi setup. May still hook up that RTC module, not sure yet.

Maybe I am a bit old fashioned, but I don"t want any dependencies to the cloud in my home auotmation setup. (At the moment, I have only one dependency with netatmo as I didn"t found comparable CO2 sensors in their price range.)

@guillermo-schimmel Thanks a lot ! I got it all up and running node a couple of nodes. But now I confused myself . I got an Arduino Nano as a node that also acts as a repeater, what bootloader can I push into that one? I assume anycahnnel and 16MHz should do the trick since it got that crystal attached.

And also one thing that is not really clear in my head, I set the "Fuses&Lock bits" with the AVRDudess for my 328P barebone. But do I really need that? . If I load the bootloader in ARduini IDE for example I specify all those settings in the "board.txt" file. Or is that just to tell the IDE what settings is on the chip ?

@lood29 That is correct, assuming the same radio technology is used. Typically, you set up a separate gateway because you want to run a sensor network on a different radio family due to longer distances or similar.

I would like to suggest that the "Serial Protocol" button/page (https://www.mysensors.org/download/serial_api_20) be renamed to a more generic "Protocol" button. The contents are relevant regardless of whether folks are using serial gateways, or like in my case mqtt gateway.

But as of today, with MySensors 2.3.2 and Arduino 1.8.15 I used the standard DallasTemperature library (provided by the Arduino"s Libraries manger) with no problems at all.

Using the "standard" Arduino libraries is a grate advantage, so I the custom library is no more used, it could be useful to update the guidelines in the page.

Every change to "Sensor open" should be for only let`s say 3 seconds or another adjustable time and than fall back to Default = "Sensor Locked" . Time enough e.g. to open the door or s.e.

thanks for sharing the models for 3D printing. I built one 3 years ago and it is still running with one pair of AA batteries, MySensors and Arduino Pro Mini.

I"ve followed suit and knocked up one but with the sensor facing the other way, so that it faces the meter, and the preset pot is and LEDs are facing away from the meter.

Thank you for great project. I built it, it works fine except occasionally it starts flashing red when was left along for couple of hours without any objects moving in front of the sensor. It happens at least couple times per day. Sensor replacement did not fix it. The only way to get out of it is to restart Arduino. Any idea what is going on?

The only way of knowing is to mount a photo resistor over the led and see if you get any reading when it is on. Use the trimpot to adjust the binary output.

What"s the expected value range for this sensor in the evening with some lights on? It"s not dark here atm but I am getting ca 10 lux only. Any ideas?

"It is recommended to set the pinMode() to INPUT_PULLUP to enable the internal pull-up resistor." - https://www.arduino.cc/reference/en/language/functions/digital-io/digitalwrite/

@evb No I did not. I was thinking about filtering out obviously wrong readings, but never implemented it since it was not high priority project. I am glad that there is some activity going on related to this issue.

But looking at the examples I found that they have a connect function which then can be used to reconnect whenever needed not constantly like it happens now,

i built the ethernet gateway with the ENC28J60 module, arduino nano v3.0 and RF24 radio, using this guide and there are three problems which i"m not being able to solve (i used the https://github.com/mysensors/MySensorsArduinoExamples/tree/master/libraries/UIPEthernet, as suggested).

A the very beginning, hesitating with the procedure, I"ve probably burnt the Minicore bootloader in the programming ProMini without noticing it... That"s the only explanation I see.

String ChargingStation_Switch4h_raw_converted "ChargingStation Switch4h" { channel="mqtt:topic:mosqbroker:ChargingStation_Switch4h_raw_thing:ChargingStation_Switch4h_raw_button"}

This domain seems to be parked. Maybe it doesn"t exist no longer? The last commit on the GitHub repo is from May 2017. SingleHub seems to be the successor, but again: last commit in 2017.

@scalz right I"m always thinking about the nrf24 because that"s all I use at the moment, but for sure with rfm radios having hardware encryption that"s much safer.

@siod correct. The conversion of value code to text has been removed in the 2.0.0 implementation, so now the raw values codes are reported in the topic.

I also asked in another post about something like this... but I want the radio so read/sence if a device is close by (Wifi and Bluetooth for example) it seems to be the other way around... this sends and not read. Any tips for this would also be appreciated.

It seems what"s novel (and promising) here is having a place where people can easily buy something and then automagically get the physical thing delivered to them, already assembled. Am I right?

Yes, it is very easy to order a pcb (or assembled board where available) on the site. Especially for none electronics people. Without having to bother with weird file formats, layers and other cryptic stuff.

Absolutely, everyone is free to manufacturer things anywhere. I don"t care. But it"s a nice gesture to support the author (they get a small kickback) when placing their order on openhardware.io.

Anyhow, it"s upp to the author to activate the sales function (by creating a revision under the sales-tab). Nothing gets activated automatically. Or if the author has the time, they can handles sales themselves, on ebay, just by adding the link in the sales tab (we fetch the price automatically and present it on openhardware.io).

You. Will. Get. To. That. Pin. GET THERE YOU AWKWARD PIECE OF COPPER! My eyes often hurt before my brain, my brain just goes into self combustion without warning, no pain or anything, just a huge explosion and a bright ball of flames.

This might actually be mitigated if you"re willing to offer a docker image of a controller: supporting (or not-supporting: support yourselves, hackers!) is more consistent if one docker image can run on whatever orchestration we use, and we gain the ability to hit a local resource without uptime and latency and cloud-ness to worry about.

Understanding the subtle-but-continuous increase of cost in cloud services, this allows your uber-elite users that may generate above-average query load to shunt this load to their own resources.

Video in OP was good for "beginner" but you very quickly run into other issues. For me it was getting confused by lots of talk about interrupts (in relation to "input" type sensors). All of Build pages for these type of sensors mention about interrupts only being available on pins 2 and 3 (assuming Arduino Pro Mini, etc.). Which only confused me further (at first). However maybe you are smarter than me. But look closely, most (all?) of MySensors code I have seen for "inputs" (door, motion, etc.) actually DO NOT use interrupts! Notice the code runs right in the main loop. Interrupts are only needed when you sleep the node!

Everything I talk about here is for always powered nodes, where you do not need to sleep because you are not on batteries. For batteries you need to sleep to save power, and then we have to do things different. Then you will need to use the hardware interrupts, to wake the node from sleeping. But that I will call "advanced" and beyond the scope of this particular post here, which I am calling "intermediate". So, back to that...

You can use any pin you want (almost) for inputs when you are not sleeping the node. OP video does mention about non blocking code, but he does not go into detail. I don"t know why not, as it is not complicated. You simply do wait() instead of sleep(). Or, if you are combining one or more thing(s) that needs to "listen" all the time (lets say, an actuator/relay, and for fun let"s add a motion sensor, too!), with something that needs to send() periodically (let"s say a temperature sensor) then you just keep looping over and over checking all your inputs, and then only enter the output (temperature) part of the code every so many millis(). An example:

Speaking of which, I think you also must have some very basic programming or even logical skills. But there is a lot of information in Internet nowadays, so hopefully you can study and teach yourself enough to get by.

Good luck, and don"t hesitate to post if you run into trouble. Don"t suffer along in silence and then give up, without saying anything to anyone. Ask me how I know.

My W5100GatewayMQTTClient is in a loop, as shown below on the serial monitor, it seems to be reconnecting to the MQTT server every 8-10 seconds. Is this normal behaviour or not? I"m by no means asking for a solution (if i get one i will be sure to post here for others to revert back to if needed), but if you would like to suggest something, then it would be appreciated. I"m looking more for just a confirmation of if this is normal behaviour as of MySensors 2.1 or not.

Does anyone have any working examples of Sensebender Micro working with a Photon? I have all the parts but finding it difficult to unravel all GW libs and so on. I just want to use my sensebender with a Onewire waterproof temp sensor and for it to report back to the Photon every 5 minutes or so.

Had lots of issues getting this to work. The issue seems to be with the ethernet part, as I only have an ethernet board attached I removed the lines for the radio and the pin redirection. Still the code kept restarting all the time or just not being able to connect the controller.

@rvendrame As far as I remember there are two similar power positive voltage (isolated) power supplies with the meter in the positive line. Then connect the positive line of no 1 to the negative line of no 2.

Yeah.. this isn"t primarily for sensor nodes. More suited for controllers or nodes needing a little more horse power (did I hear speech recognition?).

It is scary that MySensors is subject to this kind of negative (or positive) spamming. If people feel a need to ventilate their feelings on the performance of individuals or business they better find another platform.

In this case of Aliexpress the feeling is directed with no facts towards a sales platform which is providing a sales platform to thousands of individual small and larger business for which the majority is doing their utmost best to satisfy customers. You can blame the platform for providing not enough guarantees but you should not make general statements about all business behind it.

From my own experience (50+ orders) with ebay, aliexpress and similar I have the experience that some is going wrong but that it is always settled in a satisfactory way.

What I wouldn"t like are feelings: "I"ve also tried aliexpress for a few times and that"s enough for me.". Maybe create a special forum subject for people who like to express their insinuating, unfounded or needlessly offensive frustrations?

@GertSanders I think there is a better chance that the controller is going to be online. I have a mini UPS on my RPi for example if there are no mains supply. I also have a device pinging the controller and if it is not responding sending the halt/reboot signal to the RPi.

If your node is working an a universal GSM gateway, that"s a different story though. But does it have a power (battery) backup in case there is a blackout ?

I haven"t been running that one at 3.3v, but there are a number of designs with 16MHz ATMegas at 3.3v that seem to do fine. It"s outside of spec, but I"ve read that even Atmel engineers have indicated to some designers that the specs are very conservative, and some vendors report having shipped thousands of units (of 16MHz@3.3v) without problems with that.

By the way, there are also Arduino Pro Mini"s on eBay which can be converted between 3.3V and 5V (at 16 MHz), albeit usually with a solder bridge rather than a switch. Search Arduino Pro Mini adjustable.

Just wondering if the gateway inclusion push-button needs an external pull-up resistor. I looked at the code (older code 1.3 something) and didn"t see internal pull-ups enabled, yet in the instructions it does not mention to hook up an external pull-up resistor. Please advise...I have designed a gateway PCB with an external pull-up because I didn"t see internal pull-ups enabled in the code.

μW .. say 10 μW then with 3 V you have a current of 1 μA and if you believe Power saving techniques for microprocessors that should be possible in sleep with the watchdog disabled (0.1 μA) but not with the watchdog enabled (4 μA)

The embodied energy used to produce these devices is for sure larger than they ever will generate, see the articles on http://www.lowtechmagazine.com or http://www.lowtechmagazine.be, for instance The ugly side of solar panels.