neato xv-12 lcd panel illuminates but no text free sample

Unfortunately I have had this same problem twice on my Neato XV (two years apart). Both times the problem was a broken LCD display card, replacing the card fixed the problem. I was able to buy a used Neato XV LCD display card on eBay for about $40. Amazon may have them too.

Follow the Neato XV-21 repair guide on ‘Motherboard Repair’ (thank you Nastassja Klipsch!!) Until you get the two halves of the robot apart. There are a ton of screws, so if I have to do this again I will take better care to write down where they all came from (I started to forget).

You don’t need to remove the Lidar unit, so stop at that point in the guide. The LCD display card is screwed into the top shell of the robot. Once you get the robot apart it is pretty easy to disconnect the cable connector and replace the display.

@hek we have plenty of hydro alcoholic gel available here in Vietnam, and they all contain ethanol and not IPA, which is a skin irritant and doesn"t seem to be a good idea to use for hand sanitizer as you need high concentration for alcohol to be efficient on the virus. You should change the recipe of your "quick and easy" version, to use ethanol as recommended by WHO.

For the survival of the virus new studies show a survival up to 3 days on some surfaces like inox. But that"s the best case scenario for the virus, on most surfaces and in most conditions it seems it will just die in a matter of hours. So unless you have a very fast shipping (would be surprising with the number of international flights plummeting), you have nothing to fear.

And now the main risk if you are in the US, EU etc is probably from the employees of the delivery company, as there are probably way more active cases in the US/EU than in China outside of the Hubei province. So when you receive a package, open it outside, get rid of the packaging, and if you"re paranoid let it wait a few days in garage/storage room. Then wash your hands carefully, and you risk nothing.

My next issue is the humidity seems to be off. It has read as high as 115% humidity. Is this normal or should I be considering a correction? If so, how would I enter a correction. Its a little odd considering it states that the accuracy is much tighter than that.

I think there is no way a cheap sensor can actually make a precise measurement to detect humans in a room, but a system with that kind of sensors and a image processing device it could make a more reliable solution, but would go in the expensive solutions.

I did not yet try out all the things i like (like Slack bot, or running scripts, combining multiple sensors in one graph,.. etc.), but so far: i"m impressed.

The only thing worth mentioning is: One should take time to read the documentation well before start changing the config file. It"s not so hard to comprehend but i guess for some it can get complicated handling so many nested structures. A good editor, to change the config, can make things a lot easier (one that can collapse/expand, or even correct syntax).

I also found the logparser did not handle certain log entries, such as the logfile produced by the mysensors gateway on raspberry pi, e.g. prefixed with timestamps, etc.

Another upside is that it doesn"t draw a lot of current ~0.5A, though I haven"t been successful in getting the radio to run (the reason for me being here) This is also a downside as I suspect the power supply needs to be very close to 5V. Thinking it was a power hog like the RPi, I used a 5V-3A supply. This supply operates on the principle that the load will pull down the voltage. There are dire warnings on the orangepi page about using cheap SD cards, but failed to mention that power supplies have to be matched, too.

The big downside is that the SPI interface is not supported. My research indicates that in order to get it to work one must jump through some serious hoops and being low on the learning curve, those hoops are probably out of my reach. https://forum.armbian.com/topic/21688-tips-on-configuring-double-spi-through-two-chipselects-on-orange-pi-zero-2/

The armbian OS has another big downside, WiFi is not supported. Putting a TP-Link nano router configured as a client works, but it"s another $30! Why did they even release the OS?

The first pic is just of the Orange Pi and my gateway. The gateway is connected through one of the serial ports on the Orange Pi"s GPIO pins. It can"t be seen in the pic, but the top USB plug is for the external hard drive that has the OS on it.

This pic includes my USB hub. The thing in slot 3 of the hub is my 1-Wire interface. The breadboard was from some things I had set up on my old R-Pi setup. May still hook up that RTC module, not sure yet.

Maybe I am a bit old fashioned, but I don"t want any dependencies to the cloud in my home auotmation setup. (At the moment, I have only one dependency with netatmo as I didn"t found comparable CO2 sensors in their price range.)

@guillermo-schimmel Thanks a lot ! I got it all up and running node a couple of nodes. But now I confused myself . I got an Arduino Nano as a node that also acts as a repeater, what bootloader can I push into that one? I assume anycahnnel and 16MHz should do the trick since it got that crystal attached.

And also one thing that is not really clear in my head, I set the "Fuses&Lock bits" with the AVRDudess for my 328P barebone. But do I really need that? . If I load the bootloader in ARduini IDE for example I specify all those settings in the "board.txt" file. Or is that just to tell the IDE what settings is on the chip ?

@lood29 That is correct, assuming the same radio technology is used. Typically, you set up a separate gateway because you want to run a sensor network on a different radio family due to longer distances or similar.

I would like to suggest that the "Serial Protocol" button/page (https://www.mysensors.org/download/serial_api_20) be renamed to a more generic "Protocol" button. The contents are relevant regardless of whether folks are using serial gateways, or like in my case mqtt gateway.

But as of today, with MySensors 2.3.2 and Arduino 1.8.15 I used the standard DallasTemperature library (provided by the Arduino"s Libraries manger) with no problems at all.

Using the "standard" Arduino libraries is a grate advantage, so I the custom library is no more used, it could be useful to update the guidelines in the page.

Every change to "Sensor open" should be for only let`s say 3 seconds or another adjustable time and than fall back to Default = "Sensor Locked" . Time enough e.g. to open the door or s.e.

thanks for sharing the models for 3D printing. I built one 3 years ago and it is still running with one pair of AA batteries, MySensors and Arduino Pro Mini.

I"ve followed suit and knocked up one but with the sensor facing the other way, so that it faces the meter, and the preset pot is and LEDs are facing away from the meter.

Thank you for great project. I built it, it works fine except occasionally it starts flashing red when was left along for couple of hours without any objects moving in front of the sensor. It happens at least couple times per day. Sensor replacement did not fix it. The only way to get out of it is to restart Arduino. Any idea what is going on?

The only way of knowing is to mount a photo resistor over the led and see if you get any reading when it is on. Use the trimpot to adjust the binary output.

What"s the expected value range for this sensor in the evening with some lights on? It"s not dark here atm but I am getting ca 10 lux only. Any ideas?

"It is recommended to set the pinMode() to INPUT_PULLUP to enable the internal pull-up resistor." - https://www.arduino.cc/reference/en/language/functions/digital-io/digitalwrite/

@evb No I did not. I was thinking about filtering out obviously wrong readings, but never implemented it since it was not high priority project. I am glad that there is some activity going on related to this issue.

But looking at the examples I found that they have a connect function which then can be used to reconnect whenever needed not constantly like it happens now,

i built the ethernet gateway with the ENC28J60 module, arduino nano v3.0 and RF24 radio, using this guide and there are three problems which i"m not being able to solve (i used the https://github.com/mysensors/MySensorsArduinoExamples/tree/master/libraries/UIPEthernet, as suggested).

A the very beginning, hesitating with the procedure, I"ve probably burnt the Minicore bootloader in the programming ProMini without noticing it... That"s the only explanation I see.

String ChargingStation_Switch4h_raw_converted "ChargingStation Switch4h" { channel="mqtt:topic:mosqbroker:ChargingStation_Switch4h_raw_thing:ChargingStation_Switch4h_raw_button"}

This domain seems to be parked. Maybe it doesn"t exist no longer? The last commit on the GitHub repo is from May 2017. SingleHub seems to be the successor, but again: last commit in 2017.

@scalz right I"m always thinking about the nrf24 because that"s all I use at the moment, but for sure with rfm radios having hardware encryption that"s much safer.

@siod correct. The conversion of value code to text has been removed in the 2.0.0 implementation, so now the raw values codes are reported in the topic.

I also asked in another post about something like this... but I want the radio so read/sence if a device is close by (Wifi and Bluetooth for example) it seems to be the other way around... this sends and not read. Any tips for this would also be appreciated.

It seems what"s novel (and promising) here is having a place where people can easily buy something and then automagically get the physical thing delivered to them, already assembled. Am I right?

Yes, it is very easy to order a pcb (or assembled board where available) on the site. Especially for none electronics people. Without having to bother with weird file formats, layers and other cryptic stuff.

Absolutely, everyone is free to manufacturer things anywhere. I don"t care. But it"s a nice gesture to support the author (they get a small kickback) when placing their order on openhardware.io.

Anyhow, it"s upp to the author to activate the sales function (by creating a revision under the sales-tab). Nothing gets activated automatically. Or if the author has the time, they can handles sales themselves, on ebay, just by adding the link in the sales tab (we fetch the price automatically and present it on openhardware.io).

You. Will. Get. To. That. Pin. GET THERE YOU AWKWARD PIECE OF COPPER! My eyes often hurt before my brain, my brain just goes into self combustion without warning, no pain or anything, just a huge explosion and a bright ball of flames.

This might actually be mitigated if you"re willing to offer a docker image of a controller: supporting (or not-supporting: support yourselves, hackers!) is more consistent if one docker image can run on whatever orchestration we use, and we gain the ability to hit a local resource without uptime and latency and cloud-ness to worry about.

Understanding the subtle-but-continuous increase of cost in cloud services, this allows your uber-elite users that may generate above-average query load to shunt this load to their own resources.

Video in OP was good for "beginner" but you very quickly run into other issues. For me it was getting confused by lots of talk about interrupts (in relation to "input" type sensors). All of Build pages for these type of sensors mention about interrupts only being available on pins 2 and 3 (assuming Arduino Pro Mini, etc.). Which only confused me further (at first). However maybe you are smarter than me. But look closely, most (all?) of MySensors code I have seen for "inputs" (door, motion, etc.) actually DO NOT use interrupts! Notice the code runs right in the main loop. Interrupts are only needed when you sleep the node!

Everything I talk about here is for always powered nodes, where you do not need to sleep because you are not on batteries. For batteries you need to sleep to save power, and then we have to do things different. Then you will need to use the hardware interrupts, to wake the node from sleeping. But that I will call "advanced" and beyond the scope of this particular post here, which I am calling "intermediate". So, back to that...

You can use any pin you want (almost) for inputs when you are not sleeping the node. OP video does mention about non blocking code, but he does not go into detail. I don"t know why not, as it is not complicated. You simply do wait() instead of sleep(). Or, if you are combining one or more thing(s) that needs to "listen" all the time (lets say, an actuator/relay, and for fun let"s add a motion sensor, too!), with something that needs to send() periodically (let"s say a temperature sensor) then you just keep looping over and over checking all your inputs, and then only enter the output (temperature) part of the code every so many millis(). An example:

Speaking of which, I think you also must have some very basic programming or even logical skills. But there is a lot of information in Internet nowadays, so hopefully you can study and teach yourself enough to get by.

Good luck, and don"t hesitate to post if you run into trouble. Don"t suffer along in silence and then give up, without saying anything to anyone. Ask me how I know.

My W5100GatewayMQTTClient is in a loop, as shown below on the serial monitor, it seems to be reconnecting to the MQTT server every 8-10 seconds. Is this normal behaviour or not? I"m by no means asking for a solution (if i get one i will be sure to post here for others to revert back to if needed), but if you would like to suggest something, then it would be appreciated. I"m looking more for just a confirmation of if this is normal behaviour as of MySensors 2.1 or not.

Does anyone have any working examples of Sensebender Micro working with a Photon? I have all the parts but finding it difficult to unravel all GW libs and so on. I just want to use my sensebender with a Onewire waterproof temp sensor and for it to report back to the Photon every 5 minutes or so.

Had lots of issues getting this to work. The issue seems to be with the ethernet part, as I only have an ethernet board attached I removed the lines for the radio and the pin redirection. Still the code kept restarting all the time or just not being able to connect the controller.

@rvendrame As far as I remember there are two similar power positive voltage (isolated) power supplies with the meter in the positive line. Then connect the positive line of no 1 to the negative line of no 2.

Yeah.. this isn"t primarily for sensor nodes. More suited for controllers or nodes needing a little more horse power (did I hear speech recognition?).

It is scary that MySensors is subject to this kind of negative (or positive) spamming. If people feel a need to ventilate their feelings on the performance of individuals or business they better find another platform.

In this case of Aliexpress the feeling is directed with no facts towards a sales platform which is providing a sales platform to thousands of individual small and larger business for which the majority is doing their utmost best to satisfy customers. You can blame the platform for providing not enough guarantees but you should not make general statements about all business behind it.

From my own experience (50+ orders) with ebay, aliexpress and similar I have the experience that some is going wrong but that it is always settled in a satisfactory way.

What I wouldn"t like are feelings: "I"ve also tried aliexpress for a few times and that"s enough for me.". Maybe create a special forum subject for people who like to express their insinuating, unfounded or needlessly offensive frustrations?

@GertSanders I think there is a better chance that the controller is going to be online. I have a mini UPS on my RPi for example if there are no mains supply. I also have a device pinging the controller and if it is not responding sending the halt/reboot signal to the RPi.

If your node is working an a universal GSM gateway, that"s a different story though. But does it have a power (battery) backup in case there is a blackout ?

I haven"t been running that one at 3.3v, but there are a number of designs with 16MHz ATMegas at 3.3v that seem to do fine. It"s outside of spec, but I"ve read that even Atmel engineers have indicated to some designers that the specs are very conservative, and some vendors report having shipped thousands of units (of 16MHz@3.3v) without problems with that.

By the way, there are also Arduino Pro Mini"s on eBay which can be converted between 3.3V and 5V (at 16 MHz), albeit usually with a solder bridge rather than a switch. Search Arduino Pro Mini adjustable.

Just wondering if the gateway inclusion push-button needs an external pull-up resistor. I looked at the code (older code 1.3 something) and didn"t see internal pull-ups enabled, yet in the instructions it does not mention to hook up an external pull-up resistor. Please advise...I have designed a gateway PCB with an external pull-up because I didn"t see internal pull-ups enabled in the code.

μW .. say 10 μW then with 3 V you have a current of 1 μA and if you believe Power saving techniques for microprocessors that should be possible in sleep with the watchdog disabled (0.1 μA) but not with the watchdog enabled (4 μA)

The embodied energy used to produce these devices is for sure larger than they ever will generate, see the articles on http://www.lowtechmagazine.com or http://www.lowtechmagazine.be, for instance The ugly side of solar panels.