what causes ghost images on a lcd display pricelist

In some LCD TFT applications, the display runs presenting a fixed image for a long time. The result of such performance may be the “ghost” image remaining on the screen.

Image persistence (or ghosting) on LCD TFT is a result of continuous displaying of static graphics on the screen for extended time periods. Such a performance make the TN crystals to generate the specific required color. In time, the TN crystals tend to “remember” their position.

When a different image starts to display, the crystals are stuck in their memorized position.This is an LCD ghosting, a result of showing constant image for a long time.

Luckily, the ghosting display effect is not permanent. The crystals by design have their natural state to be in. It is possible to restore them to their natural position. You can do this by using a specific amount of current and voltage.

Do not place high-contrast patterns side-by-side in a fixed image. This will increase the probability of LCD ghosting. It is due to the significant difference in the LCD charge in those areas. *See the image below

Use a background with bright colors. This will further reduce the possibility of ghosting. It will cause the reset of all crystals and erase any earlier persistence.

Apply motion on the screen. That is the most effective solution to avoid ghosting display. The motion does not need to be invasive. Let the elements, which are usually static, to move a bit. For example, instead of displaying a motionless ball, display a bouncing ball. The content stays the same, and the “bouncing” prevents the ghosting display on the LCD TFT.

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I had this problem with my original 2010 iPad and if I left it completely shutdown for 3-4 days the issue wluld not return for about 2 months, or so, where I would have to shut it down for another 3-4 days.

The out of warranty cost to repair/replace this with another iPad Air 2. will be nearly the costs of a new 2018, 6th gen 9.7 inch iPad with much better and faster specs and now have Apple Pencil support.

Ghosting and similar image artifacts can be a real nuisance on PC monitors. They can seriously affect your experience and cause noticeably ruin the image quality, especially during fast-moving scenes. To help you out, we will go over:What monitor ghosting exactly is

Monitor ghosting is an image artifact that shows as a trail of pixels or “ghosts” behind moving objects. Since they follow moving objects, they are especially noticeable in scenes with many fast movements, such as first-person shooter games or fast-paced sports like hockey.

Thankfully though, monitor ghosting doesn’t cause permanent changes to the display like similar effects such as image retention or burn-in effect. Instead, ghosting is only noticeable during fast-paced scenes that include moving objects as a blurry trail without any permanent effect on the image.

Ghosting is usually caused by the slow response time of certain types of LCD panels. When the image is refreshed the physical pixels cannot update as fast as the image causing a smearing image effect on the display.

Out of the three most common types of LCD monitor panels, ghosting is most noticeable on VA panels since they have the slowest response time. Only the most expensive VA monitors (usually gaming ones) don’t show noticeable ghosting artifacts.

Cheaper IPS monitors can also show ghosting artifacts but to a much smaller degree. In other words, ghosting is inherent with some LCD panels and cannot be removed entirely. The good news is that most monitors have some setting to reduce ghosting artifacts but more on that later.

The monitor panel itself might not cause monitor ghosting. They can also be caused by a faulty monitor cable or other devices (believe it or not even a printer) that interfere with the monitor if they’re placed close enough. Next, specific monitor settings can cause ghosting or similar artifacts such as coronas or inverse ghosting (an artifact that manifests as bright trails behind moving objects).

There are a few ways to fix monitor ghosting, and most include tweaking specific monitor settings. The most common fix is turning on the overdrive function. The setting has different names depending on the monitor manufacturer and is known as:Overdrive for Acer monitors

For other manufacturers, it’s usually shown as Overdrive or Response Time in the monitor settings. To accurately correct this problem, you should try the TestUFO motion test and then tweak the overdrive setting accordingly.

Change the levels of overdrive until ghosting is minimized as much as possible without a noticeable corona artifact. The recommended setting is usually medium or one level below when inverse ghosting or the corona artifact appears.

Some other settings called “Perfect Clear,” “Dynamic Contrast,” “Motion Smoothing,” or “Noise Reduction” can also cause ghosting, especially in darker scenes. These settings enhance the image. They are added over the raw video signal, increasing response time and can add noticeable image artifacts. They are usually found on TVs but if you experience artifacts such as monitor ghosting, check your monitor control panel for these settings and if you find any, turn them off.

Also, Nvidia Control Panel hub has a setting called “Noise Reduction.” It is recommended to turn this setting off to avoid ghosting or other image artifacts.

When faulty cables or other devices cause monitor ghosting artifact (if changing overdrive settings didn’t work), you should remove all devices close to your monitor (such as printers or modems, speakers are safe) and then test the monitor for ghosting. If the problem pertains change your monitor cable, that should fix the issue.

Suppose ghosting is still visible even if you changed overdrive settings, removed other devices near the monitor, and changed the cable. In that case, the issue can be a faulty monitor or faulty video ports. In that case, the only option is to take the monitor to a service or replace it (if it’s under warranty).

Do note that, as we already mentioned, cheaper VA and IPS panels can show ghosting artifacts because their pixel response time is too low. In that case, nothing you can do can remove ghosting. Another possible solution includes updating your graphic card drivers, which sometimes can help with monitor ghosting issues.

Image retention happens with LCD monitors and TVs and is displayed as a faded image permanently shown on the monitor. The issue isn’t permanent and can usually be solved by turning off the monitor for a few minutes and then turning it back on.

The burn-in effect is the same as image retention, but it only happens on OLED displays. Sadly, this issue is permanent, and once it appears, you cannot do anything to remove it. To prevent this, you should avoid leaving the display on with static images showing for a long time.

Motion blur is shown as an image smearing both on trailing and leading edges, not just on trailing edges like ghosting. It is found on every monitor to a degree, but high refresh rate monitors (120Hz or higher) have lower levels of motion blur.

Some monitor settings such as 1ms Motion Blur Reduction (LG), ELMB (ASUS), or ULMB (available on Nvidia G-Sync monitors) can reduce motion blur but do note that, on most monitor models, motion blur reduction cannot be used while G-Sync or FreeSync is active.

Inverse ghosting is an image artifact similar to ghosting. It is different in that trailing object edges are followed by bright coronas instead of “ghost” trails. The artifact is caused by setting the overdrive option to the maximum level and is easily fixed by lowering (or turning off) the overdrive setting.

LCD displays use a relatively new technology, but all of the early teething problems have long been worked out and the prices of LCD displays have fallen to the point that they are now mainstream products. A good LCD display, such as the ViewSonic VP191 19" model shown in Figure 11-2, provides top-notch image quality in a compact package. Although traditional CRTs have advantages of their own, most people who experience the bright, contrasty image of a good LCD display will never return to using a CRT monitor.

If you convert from a standard CRT display to a flat-screen CRT display or (particularly) an LCD display, you may notice an odd effect. Your eye and brain become used to seeing the curved surface of the old display as flat. The new display, which truly is flat, looks concave! Straight lines appear to bow inward, particularly if you work close to the display. The effect is so convincing that Robert actually held a straight-edge up to his new LCD display. Sure enough, the "bent" lines were straight. Don"t worry, though. The optical illusion disappears after only a couple hours" use.

CRT monitors were the dominant PC display technology until recently, but that has changed. For displays bundled with new PCs, LCDs exceeded CRTs in popularity by late 2002. By 2005, LCDs had also begun to outsell CRTs in retail channels. Lower cost and other advantages of CRTs ensure that they"ll remain available for years to come, but the emphasis has definitely shifted to LCDs.

Unlike CRT monitors, which have a maximum resolution but can easily be run at lower resolutions, LCDs are designed to operate at one resolution, called the native resolution. You can run an LCD at lower than native resolution, but that results in either the image occupying only part of the screen at full image quality or, via pixel extrapolation, the image occupying the full screen area but with greatly reduced image quality.

LCDs are available in analog-only, digital/analog hybrid, and digital-only interfaces. Using an analog interface requires converting the video signal from digital to analog inside the PC and then from analog to digital inside the monitor, which reduces image quality, particularly at higher resolutions. Synchronization problems occur frequently with analog interfaces, and can cause various undesirable display problems. Finally, analog interfaces are inherently noisier than digital interfaces, which causes subtle variations in display quality that can be quite disconcerting.

Whereas CRT monitors require high vertical refresh rates to ensure stable images, LCDs, because of their differing display technology, can use much lower refresh rates. For example, at 1280x1024 resolution on a CRT monitor, you"ll probably want to use an 85 Hz or higher refresh rate for good image quality. At the same resolution on an LCD, 60 Hz is a perfectly adequate refresh rate. In fact, on LCDs, a lower refresh rate often provides a better image than a higher refresh rate.

Unlike CRT monitors, whose phosphor-based pixels respond essentially instantaneously to the electron beam, LCD panels use transistors, which require time to turn on or turn off. That means there is a measurable lag between when a transistor is switched on or off and when the associated pixel changes to the proper state. That lag, called rise time for when the transistor is switched on and fall time for when it is switched off, results in a corresponding lag in image display.

Fast LCD response time is a Good Thing. Fast response means smoother scrolling and no ghosting or smearing, even when you view fast-motion video. Unfortunately, there"s no standard way to measure or specify response time, so different LCD makers use different methods. That means you can"t necessarily compare the response time specified by one LCD maker directly with that specified by another. (Actually, it"s worse than that; you can"t necessarily compare response times for two different models made by the same company.)

When LCDs first appeared, most makers specified rise-and-fall response in milliseconds (ms), the time required for a pixel to change from black to white (rise time) and then from white to black (fall time), also called the black-white-black (bwb) response. Nowadays, in addition to or instead of bwb, many LCD makers specify white-black-white (wbw) response and/or gray-to-gray (gtg) response, the time required to go from one level of gray to another.

And gtg times are not necessarily comparable between different brands, or even between different models from the same company, because gtg time depends on which particular levels of gray are tested. Do we specify gtg response for going from an almost-black gray to an almost-white gray, or for going from one almost-middle gray to another almost-middle gray? It makes a difference.

Some makers also specify the rise time separately. For example, we found one display that was advertised as having a 4 ms response time, but the product data sheet on the maker"s web site listed that display as having an 8 ms response time. Both numbers were accurate, as far as they went. The 4 ms time quoted in the ad referred to rise time (black to white). The 8 ms time quoted in the technical documents referred to bwb response.

It is not safe to make assumptions about one type of response time based on another type. For example, one LCD may have response times of 20 ms bwb and 8 ms gtg, while another model from the same manufacturer may have response times of 16 ms bwb and 12 ms gtg. So, is the second LCD slower or faster than the first? It depends on which numbers you decide to use. Advertisers use the fastest numbers available. Count on it.

All of these response-time numbers can be different, and there"s no direct relationship among them. If you look only at ads (as opposed to technical documentation), it"s often not clear what type of response time is being specified. If a response time is quoted without qualification, such as "16 ms," that ordinarily (but not always) refers to bwb response.

A fast bwb (or wbw) response time is more important for general use, while a fast gtg response time is more important for gamers and graphic artists. For general use, bwb response of 25 ms to 30 ms is acceptable to most people, and 16 ms to 20 ms preferable. For gaming and other demanding applications, bwb response of 12 ms is generally acceptable and 8 ms preferable, with gtg response no slower than 8 ms and 4 ms or less desirable.

LCDs are brighter than CRTs. A typical CRT has brightness of about 100 candelas/square meter, a unit of measurement called a nit. (Some displays are rated in foot Lamberts (fL); one fL equals about 3.43 nits). A typical LCD is rated at 250 to 350 nits, roughly three times as bright as a typical CRT. CRTs dim as they age, although a brightness control with enough range at the upper end can often be used to set an old CRT to near original brightness. The CCRTs used to backlight LCDs also dim as they age, but generally fail completely before reduced brightness becomes a major issue.

Contrast measures the difference in luminance between the brightest and dimmest portions of an image, and is expressed as a ratio. The ability to display a high-contrast image is an important aspect of image quality, particularly for text. An average CRT may have a contrast ratio of 200:1, and a superb CRT 250:1. An inexpensive LCD may have a contrast ratio of 400:1, and a superb LCD 1,000:1. In other words, even an inexpensive LCD may have higher contrast than an excellent CRT.

Even good flat-screen CRTs are subject to objectionable reflections when used in bright environments, such as having the screen facing a window. Good LCDs are much superior in this respect. Short of direct sunlight impinging on the screen, a good LCD provides excellent images under any lighting conditions.

A typical CRT is about as deep as its nominal screen size. For example, a 19" CRT may be 19" from front to back. Large CRTs may be difficult to fit physically in the available space. Conversely, LCDs are quite shallow. The panel itself typically ranges from 1.5" to 3" deep, and even with the base most LCDs are no more than 7" to 8" deep. Also, where a large CRT may weigh 50 to 100 pounds or more, even large LCDs are quite light. A typical 17" LCD might weigh 10 pounds, and even a 23" unit may weigh less than 20 pounds. That small size and weight means that it"s possible to desk- or wall-mount an LCD with relatively inexpensive mounting hardware, compared to the large, heavy, expensive mounting hardware needed for CRTs.

Stated LCD display sizes are accurate. For example, a 19" LCD has a display area that actually measures 19" diagonally. CRT sizes, on the other hand, are nominal because they specify the diagonal measurement of the entire CRT, part of which is covered by the bezel. For example, a nominal 19" CRT might have a display area that actually measures 18.1" diagonally. A couple of lawsuits several years ago convinced CRT makers to begin stating the usable size of their CRTs. This is stated as VIS (viewable image size or visible image size), and is invariably an inch or so smaller than the nominal size.

This VIS issue has given rise to the belief that a 15" LCD is equivalent to a 17" CRT, a 17" LCD to a 19" CRT, and so on. In fact, that"s not true. The image size of a typical 17" CRT is an inch or so larger than that of a 15" LCD, as is the image size of a 19" CRT relative to a 17" LCD.

Depending on size and other factors, a typical CRT consumes 100 to 160 watts while operating, while an LCD consumes only a quarter to a half as much power. Using an LCD reduces your electricity bill directly by consuming less power and indirectly by reducing the heating load on your air conditioning during hot weather.

Current LCDs are available in analog-only, digital-only, and models with both analog and digital inputs. Analog input is acceptable for 15" (1024x768) models, but for 17" (1280x1024) models analog video noise becomes an issue. At that screen size and resolution, analog noise isn"t immediately obvious to most people, but if you use the display for long periods the difference between using a display with a clean digital signal and one with a noisy analog signal will affect you on almost a subconscious level. For a 19" (1280x1024) LCD, we regard a digital signal as extremely desirable but not absolutely essential. For a larger display or above 1280x1024, we wouldn"t consider using analog signaling.

Insist on true 24-bit color support, which may be described as support for 16.7 million colors. Most current LCDs support 24-bit color, allocating one full byte to each of the three primary colors, which allows 256 shades of each color and a total of 16.7 million colors to be displayed. Many early LCDs and some inexpensive current models support only six bits per color, for a total of 18-bit color. These models use extrapolation to simulate full 24-bit color support, which results in poor color quality. If an LCD is advertised as "24-bit compatible," that"s good reason to look elsewhere. Oddly, many LCDs that do support true 24-bit color don"t bother to mention it in their spec sheets, while many that support only 18-bit color trumpet the fact that they are "24-bit compatible."

Most LCD makers produce three or more series of LCDs. Entry-level models are often analog-only, even in 19" and 21" sizes, and have slow response times. Midrange models usually accept analog or digital inputs, and generally have response times fast enough for anything except 3D gaming and similarly demanding uses. The best models may be analog/digital hybrids or digital-only, and have very fast response times. Choose an entry-level model only if you are certain that you will never use the display for anything more than word processing, web browsing, and similarly undemanding tasks. If you need a true CRT-replacement display, choose a midrange or higher model with a digital interface and the fastest response time you are willing to pay for.

Decide what panel size and resolution is right for you. Keep in mind that when you choose a specific LCD model, you are also effectively choosing the resolution that you will always use on that display.

Buy the LCD locally if possible. Whether or not you buy locally, insist on a no-questions-asked return policy. LCDs are more variable than CRT monitors, both in terms of unit-to-unit variation and in terms of usability with a particular graphics adapter. This is particularly important if you are using an analog interface. Some analog LCDs simply don"t play nice with some analog graphics adapters. Also, LCDs vary from unit to unit in how many defective pixels they have and where those are located. You might prefer a unit with five defective pixels near the edges and corners rather than a unit with only one or two defective pixels located near the center of the screen.

If you buy locally, ask the store to endorse the manufacturer"s warranty that is, to agree that if the LCD fails you can bring it back to the store for a replacement rather than dealing with the hassles of returning the LCD to the maker.

If possible, test the exact LCD you plan to buy (not a floor sample) before you buy it. Ideally, and particularly if you will use the analog interface, you should test the LCD with your own system, or at least with a system that has a graphics adapter identical to the one you plan to use. We"d go to some extremes to do this, including carrying our desktop system down to the local store. But if that isn"t possible for some reason, still insist on seeing the actual LCD you plan to buy running. That way, you can at least determine if there are defective pixels in locations that bother you. Also, use a neutral gray screen with no image to verify that the backlight evenly illuminates the entire screen. Some variation is unavoidable, but one or more corners should not be especially darker than the rest of the display, nor should there be any obvious "hot" spots.

Recommended Brands: Our opinion, confirmed by our readers and colleagues, is that NEC-Mitsubishi, Samsung, Sony, and ViewSonic make the best LCDs available. Their LCDs particularly their midrange and better models provide excellent image quality and are quite reliable. You"re likely to be happy with an LCD from any of these manufacturers.

Stick with good name brands and buy a midrange or higher model from within that name brand. That doesn"t guarantee that you"ll get a good LCD, but it does greatly increase your chances. The LCD market is extremely competitive. If two similar models differ greatly in price, the cheaper one likely has significantly worse specs. If the specs appear similar, the maker of the cheaper model has cut corners somewhere, whether in component quality, construction quality, or warranty policies.

LCD Display Ghosting is a typical issue that can occur on any TV. You may encounter this problem. You’ll have to deal with this problem if you are playing a first-person shooter or an adventure game, and it can potentially destroy your enjoyment of the game.

If you want to know How to Fix Ghosting on LCD TV, we will start by figuring out why precisely those shading images persist on your screen. Then, we will discuss several possible solutions to this problem.

Burn-in was a permanent problem on older CRT (cathode ray tube) television sets, but it is a problem that you can typically remedy on modern LCDs and HDTVs.

Ghost pictures have been an issue on tv sets for decades. LCD burn-in, also known as persistence, is a condition that occurs when a picture does not move for a significant amount of time, which results in a path of electrical charges being left behind. Sometimes, these trace images may disappear, or a straightforward process may eliminate them.

Ghosting, sometimes known as screen ghosting, is an issue that can occur on LCDs, as the name suggests. LCD TV ghosting typically occurs when several images are moving quickly on your screen.

When you move your mouse quickly, or when you change the channel on your television using the remote control. If Ghosting is occurring on your display while gaming, you will likely observe the following:

A picture artifact that is quite similar to Ghosting is called inverse ghosting. The edges of trailing objects are followed by bright coronas rather than “ghost” trails, which is crucial.

The artifact can be readily remedied by lowering (or turning off) the overdrive setting, which is what produced it in the first place when it was caused by setting the overdrive option to its maximum level.

Although Ghosting is more common in LCD TVs, the two primary elements that contribute to it are the same regardless of the type of television: the refresh rate and the response time.

Another way, the screen refresh rate is the frequency with which your television displays a new image. For instance, if an LCD panel has a refresh rate of 60Hz, this indicates that the display updates itself 60 times per second.

LCDs can be prone to Ghosting if they have a slow response time to what is happening on the screen. When your display is more responsive, you will reduce its response time.

There’s a reasonable probability you’ll run across issues with screen Ghosting if your LCD television has a slow refresh rate and a slow response time.

It’s simple to fix LCD TV ghosting if you know what you’re doing. It is not a hardware issue. Thus it is ambiguous that you will need to send your LCD to a specialist to fix it.

Step 1:Activate the computer by turning it on. You may find Paint by selecting “All Programs,” then “Accessories,” and finally “Paint” from the Start menu.

Step 2:Go to the “Image” tab, then the “Attributes” tab. To change the width, go to the message box next to “Width” and put “1920.” Then, go to the text box next to “Height,” highlight the text there, and change it to “1080.” Then you should click the “OK” button.

Step 4:To access the Windows DVD Maker, go to the Start menu and type its name into the text box. To launch the program, select its icon when it displays on the screen.

Step 5:After clicking on the “Add objects” icon, find the image you just made and choose it. After selecting “Play video on a continuous loop” from the “Options” menu, you’ll need to click “OK” and then “Next” to continue.

Step 6:Insert a recordable blank DVD into your computer’s disc drive, and then click the “Burn” button to write the blank white image on the recordable disc.

Step 7:Place the disc that has been burned into your DVD player, and allow the white image to play on your high-definition television for several hours or possibly the entire night. Any ghosts or pictures that are burned into the media should be removed.

Put to rest any potential radio frequency (RF) interference by turning off any gadgets, whether electrical or battery-powered, that might be causing it.

Ghosting is a phrase used to describe various effects that occur on a screen. Ghosting Images are Dual or Offset images in which a second image is placed just next to the first image.

Suppose you utilize a coaxial cable from an antenna, a direct line, or the coaxial output of a VCR, DVD player, or another device. To learn How to Fix Ghosting on LCD TV,following are the guidelines mentioned below will help you:

Step 1:After ensuring that neither end of the coaxial cable is loose or damaged, connect it and put it to the test. If you continue to see Dual or Offset Images on the screen, you should experiment with a different cable.

Step 2:A videocassette recorder (VCR), a DVD player, or a video game console are all potential alternatives to the computer. If the Dual or Offset Image disappears, your primary signal source is causing the problem. In that case, your television might need to be serviced.

You could also try using a different DVD, a different streaming provider, or even a different program on the same streaming platform. Put the TV into standby mode. Unplug your HDMI cable.

If you have access to a different HDMI cable, you should experiment with utilizing that cable rather than the one already installed. Establish the connection between the TV and the HDMI cable.

Check to determine if the firmware on your TV has been updated to the most recent version. In that case, you need to upgrade to the most recent firmware.

A television ghost duplicates the image transmitted, but it is placed at an angle relative to the primary image. It is overlaid on top of the primary impression. It is frequently brought about when a TV signal makes its way to a receiving antenna via two distinct pathways, one of which has a little different timing.

You can use HDMI ports to remedy the problem of Ghosting on the TV. The source or the TV will be identified as the source of the Issue. Alternatively, you might try unplugging the TV and reconnecting it after a few minutes.

Television displays that use projection technology can sometimes produce a double image along either the vertical or horizontal axis. Most customers can fix this issue by altering the convergence setting on their television display. However, TV repair specialists may demand exorbitant prices to fix this Issue.

When a picture is shown on an LCD TV screen for an extended time, there is a possibility that shadows will emerge on the screen. Individual pixels can get briefly imprinted with a particular color when using an LCD panel. Image persistence or burn-in is a term that is frequently used to describe this phenomenon.

Even though LCD ghosting isn’t quite as frightening as its name suggests, it can nonetheless be a source of irritation. Hardcore gamers who desire the best performance from their LCD TVs will find this particularly annoying.

It’s best to do a test to confirm your concerns if you suspect that your LCD TV is suffering from Ghosting. Please follow these steps before sending your device in for repair if it shows signs of Ghosting.

Image persistence, or image retention, is the LCD and plasma display equivalent of screen burn-in. Unlike screen burn, the effects are usually temporary and often not visible without close inspection. Plasma displays experiencing severe image persistence can result in screen burn-in instead.

Image persistence can occur as easily as having something remain unchanged on the screen in the same location for a duration of even 10 minutes, such as a web page or document. Minor cases of image persistence are generally only visible when looking at darker areas on the screen, and usually invisible to the eye during ordinary computer use.

Liquid crystals have a natural relaxed state. When a voltage is applied they rearrange themselves to block certain light waves. If left with the same voltage for an extended period of time (e.g. displaying a pointer or the Taskbar in one place, or showing a static picture for extended periods of time), the liquid crystals can develop a tendency to stay in one position. This ever-so-slight tendency to stay arranged in one position can throw the requested color off by a slight degree, which causes the image to look like the traditional "burn-in" on phosphor based displays. In fact, the root cause of LCD image persistence is the same as phosphor burn-in, namely, non-uniform usage of the display"s pixels.

The cause of this tendency is unclear. It might be due to accumulation of ionic impurities inside the LCD, electric charge building up near the electrodes,parasitic capacitance,DC voltage component that occurs unavoidably in some display pixels owing to anisotropy in the dielectric constant of the liquid crystal".

Image persistence can be reversed by allowing the liquid crystals to relax and return to their relaxed state, such as by turning off the monitor for a sufficiently long period of time (at least a few hours). For most minor cases, simply continuing to use the computer as usual (and thus allowing other colors to "cover" the affected regions) or turning off the monitor for the night is more than enough. One strategy for users looking to avoid image persistence artifacts is to vary the activities performed on a computer to avoid static colors and hide elements on the screen which are displayed perpetually (such as an OS"s Taskbar). Another strategy is the usage of a screensaver to help during times the computer is left unattended. Covering the entire display area with pure white for an extended period of time is also a useful proactive solution.

Manufacturers of plasma and LCD flat panel televisions are continuously introducing technology to help reduce the likelihood of this problem, but there are simple steps you can take to help reduce the chances of experiencing image "burn-in.

For new plasma TVs in particular, be wary of leaving images on the screen for long periods. When phosphors are fresh, they burn more intensely as they are ignited. This means that relatively new plasma TVs are prone to "ghosting", which occurs when on-screen images appear on the screen for an extended time.

If you are using your TV to display a video game from a computer, make sure to utilize screen saver features or power management settings that can change or turn off the display after a period of time.

"Stuck" images can be removed by "exercising" the LCD pixels to bleed off the residual capacitive charge. This can most easily be accomplished by using a random pattern screen saver that changes the screen image repeatedly. You should be able to connect your LCD TV to a computer with TV-out capability. The time required to clear the stuck image can vary widely (minutes, hours, days) depending on the panel technology and the severity of the stuck image.

Turning the LCD monitor off for an extended period of time does not clear the image. The charge must be bled off by charging/discharging the pixels with random images.

Screen burn-in isn’t as common on modern display technologies as it was in the past, but few screens are immune to its ability to ruin a perfectly good display. If you run into this irritating problem, here are some tips and tricks that might help fix it.

Screen burn-in is a noticeable discoloration or ghosting of a previous image on a digital display. It’s caused by the regular use of certain pixels more than others, leaving them to display colors slightly differently. The end result is a noticeable and often permanent impression on the display.

Time, screen brightness, and other factors can cause burn-in, but the circumstances are different for each display technology, as different screens and their pixels operate differently at the hardware level. For LCD panels, like those used in many TVs and computer monitors, burn-in can develop because pixels eventually become unable to return to their unlit state and retain a colored profile.

As for OLED and AMOLED technology, which is now used in some modern smartphones and TVs, the light-emitting pixels in the displays can dim faster than others if used more regularly, leaving a darkened ghost of an image in their place.

Colloquially “burn-in” is used as a catchall term for any kind of ghosted image on a screen. The most common form of such “burn-in” though, is technically known as image retention. While that might seem like a case of pedantic semantics, it’s an important distinction to make. Screen burn-in refers to permanent degradation of a display which is almost impossible to fix; image retention is typically fixable.

As described above, screen burn-in on a technical level is hard to fix. However, the much more common image retention is not. Here’s how to sort out your image retention problems on whatever device you have.

Enable Pixel-Shift. Many modern TVs have a built-in pixel-shift, or screen shift, which constantly moves the image slightly to vary pixel usage. If not enabled automatically, you should be able to turn it on in the settings menu. Other settings offer “Refresh” functions that can be manually run to try and clean out any image retention problems.

Play a colorful video. Running a fast-moving video with lots of color changes for a few minutes to half an hour may help if the above options don"t work.

Get a replacement TV. Check your warranty to see if you’re covered for a replacement. If you"re not, you"ll have to fork over the dough for a new set on your own.

Use a White Screensaver. Try setting your screensaver to a pure white image and leaving it to run for a few hours. That may not remove image retention entirely, but it should dampen how noticeable it is.

Try JScreenFix. Some have also found success using JScreenFix. Although designed to fix stuck pixels rather than burn-in, it may help clear up any issues you’re experiencing.

Try a burn-in fixer. There are a number of great burn-in fixer apps on the Google Play Store and Apple App Store. Some, like OLED tools, will try to fix image retention and check for more permanent burn-in.

Replace the screen. If none of the above works, your best bet is to either replace the screen yourself or talk to your mobile carrier about a replacement device. Manufacturers like Apple have extended the warranties on certain devices that are prone to image retention and burn-in, so if your device is fairly new, you should still be covered by the warranty.

To prevent screen burn-in on a TV, reduce the brightness to the 45-50 range, use the sleep timer and screen savers, and turn the TV off when not in use. If you have an OLED TV, turn on pixel shift and play a color-changing video that"s designed to help lower the risk of burn-in.

On Androids and iPhones, reduce the brightness to 50 percent or lower, use a screen-timeout length of about 30 seconds, and turn off your phone when not in use. You can also operate in dark mode, use swipes and taps instead of button navigation, and download a screen-burn fixer app.

On a smartphone, screen burn presents as a discolored display with pink or gray tones. On monitors and TVs, it looks like a "ghosting" of previous images remaining on the screen. Screen burn happens so gradually that you may not notice it until using a white background.