htpc lcd display factory

Most HTPC-Cases are…mostly crap. Either they have a form-factor, which isn’t usable at all in common living-room-configurations or they are missing some major features you would expect from a HTPC.

Whatever, this shall not be the topic here. Instead we’re fetching a case, which features most of our requirements, and add a ‚useful‘ LCD-setup to it.

(If you have your HTPC Setup already completed with LCDd running and just seeking for the XBMC/Kodi integration, you might want to skip some lines here…)

First of: Forget about cases with integrated LCDs. They are usually crap. On the one hand they are ridiculously expensive for no reason, and on the other hand they only offer a very limited set of features and mostly require some specific windows-software. which never gets updated, and is will be usually incompatible with the next release of Windows, even if you tend to use the Microsoft-OS for a mediacenter-computer.

Instead, why not go the originally inteded ‚default‘ way? Long, long time ago there was a LCD-driver-chipset which was cheap, widely available, able to drive character-display with up to 80 characters in almost every configuration of lines and quickly become the de-facto-standard for displays in industry-applications. I am of couse talking about the Hitachi HD44780-Chipset. While no longer produced by Hitachi itself, tons of compatible chipsets are out there. Just grep Ebay for HD44780, and you will see they’re very affordable. Therefore you are able to get this easy-to-use and well-documented displays beginning at 2$. Much less than the extra value a case with a much more crappy display would cost you. The only thing you should care about is to get one with backlight, because this is optional, but most displays nowadays do have integrated backlight.

I got myself a neat case (and i really do not remember where i got this nor what model it is), which was really cheap and cost me something around 30 euros, which is of course quite affordable compared to the heavily overpriced HTPC cases.

Next comes the display. While there are many color/backlight-color variations available, there are some defaults regarding the size. They are given in the following sheme : 20×4 or 2004 , in this case meaning „4 lines with 20 chars each„. Most common sizes are 16×2, 16×4, 20×2 and 20×4. But much more interesting are the more uncommon sizes, especially the 40×2 one. This size is perfect for HTPCs, because many cases are (more or less) flat, but wide enought to fit a 40×2-Display in (and, to be honest: Really noone wants to read titles like „The Lord of the Rings – The Fellowship of the Ring“ or „Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows – Part 1“ scrolling on a diaplay which is 16 caracters wide, right?).

You shall also keep in mind, that you most likely need a piece of extra hardware to interface the display. You can either interface the display directly if you have any kind of GPIO-Pins like on a raspberry pi (or arduino, or similar), use (or make) an I²C-Adapter Board (costs around 5 Bucks) if you have the possibility to interface I²C on your machine somewhere or try to get (or make) an LCD2USB-Adapter. The last ones are small PCBs, which use an atmel to interface the display and make it available via USB. This Board is OpenSource, so usually not available from any professional manufacturer.

But sometimes a batch of this can be seen and purchased via chinese ebay traders (but keep in mind, that the 40×4 displays use a 2-pin-row-layout at the side instead of a 1×16-pin-line which most displays use, if you got the wrong adapter, you have to use flexible wires instead of pins to connect them together). If you see one of these: get them, they’re rare! The LCD2USB-Project can be found here.

I was in total luck while buying a display, because I managed to find a blue/white 40×2 display with an LCD2USB-Adapter preassembled for around 20 bucks. And it also came with a 4-pin-wire soldered to the USB-Port, so no work at all, just plugged it it on one of the internal USB-ports onboard as it was intended anyways.

The case of course was not able to fit the display without some modifications, so i got myself a hacksaw and a file, and began to fit it in (no, I’m just kidding, I drawed a matching hole in inkscape, exported it to DXF and made a clean cutout with a CNC-mill, but you are likely stuck to a saw and a file because you don’t have access to a CNC-mill… ).

Interfacing the display on software side is really easy, on Windows you can use tools like LCDsmartie or on Linux you usually use LCDproc orLCD4Linux. However, the Kodi-Addon (on Linux) uses LCDproc. Depending on your distribution, you may have to compile LCDproc by yourself , because your distro-version is lacking the right drivers for your display, but this is well documented on the LCDproc-website. I will further explain the configuration using LCDproc.

Due to the fact that already a „lcd2usb“-value as connection type exists, this is all we have to do here, if we use one of the lcd2usb-adapters (which I highly recommend). Also mind the driver path. Your display drivers shall go there of course. Restart LCDd and see if the display shows something. If yes, your general setup is done. The rest relies to your personal taste.

LCDproc uses Clients (applications which use a display provided by a network-daemon provided by LCDproc to interface displays) to display Screens (of which you can define multiple and e.G. switch between them). In our case a XBMC/Kodi-Addon acts as Client for our display and draws it’s output to the LCD.

First place to go is the advancedsettings.xml inside ~/.kodi/userdata/ . I prefer to place some values here, which shall not be overwritten by anything else, and also a bit of the LCD-config:

The important part here is of course inside the -tag, the values are self-explanatory. Next, and much more important is the LCD.xml in the same folder. Here is mine as example:

$INFO[LCD.TimeWide$X$Y] I use this for screensaver, so when the system is idle. Assume your display have 2 lines, then you need  TimeWide21 in row 1 and TimeWide22 in row 2. On a 4-Line Display you need TimeWide41,42,43 and 44 when using all 4 lines for the big digits. Once you understand how it works, it’s easy. This displays big digits filling more than one row, in my case displaying the actual time. Valid for X and Y are 1,2,3,4, while 1 is rather useless for X of course.

One thing is left, installing the XBMC LCDproc addon inside Kodi (yes also in Kodi it is called XBMC… , dont know why, maybe there are 2 identical addons with different names, but i use this since a few years, so maybe it is different in your setup). Most values can be taken as they are, my prefered settings are

I do not want to miss my „widescreen“-LCD on my HTPC anymore. if you – like me – perfer to leave your low-TDP-HTPC-device always on, then you can achieve an interesting dual-use as clock, room-thermometer, rss-feeder, whatever.. I prefer the clock, because of it’s simplicity.

If you find this displays odd and boring, you might want to try one of this more fancier VFD or OLED displays, or why not build yourself a dot-matrix display out of LEDs, which runs with LCDproc? …but this of course relies onto the personal taste.

You are unable to find a simple, affordable HTPC-Case without many bullshit-addons? You might want to have a look at the cases frominter-tech,  they imho have some neat cases available.

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This is the basic question, because everything will depend on it, especially the appearance, because HTPC is to be equipment in the living room, next to home cinema. Equally important will be the opportunities it has to give us. The last thing is the budget, some HTPC cases can cost a lot of money. You can also make a case to order according to your own design. It will also not be the cheapest option, besides, when we undertake something for the first time, the effect may not come out as we expect.

There are also cases with LCD displays, including touch screens, allowing you to control the functions of the equipment without the participation of the TV. An example of such a housing is e.g. thermaltake DH202, unfortunately not available for sale anymore.

An example of such a nice and interesting case for HTPC is the Streacom proposition in the form of the FC9 Alpha model. The case allows installation of a mATX board, optical drive and several HDD / SSD disks. Due to the height of the expansion cards must be low profile.

The largest cases that can fit “full” motherboards in ATX format. The offer includes models with LCD display, passive cases made of aluminum as well as with tempered glass panels.

The CW03 model from Silverstone is already a very large case that can accommodate all standard PC components. This model is also equipped with an LCD display. it is quite an expensive housing and is difficult to access.

An example of an absolutely top HTPC case model is Origen AE S21T. It is an aluminum case with a 12 “Full HD touch screen. It fit motherboards up to the ATX standard and can accommodate up to 10 3.5” drives. The case is already difficult to access and its price is very high, around 1000$

Like many computer enthusiasts, I’m an early adopter. At the turn of the millennium, I decided to construct a home theater PC (HTPC)--before Windows Media Center Edition was readily available as a standalone product. Armed with AMD’s Remote Wonder, a Radeon 7500 with an S-video output, some game controllers, and a DVD-ROM drive, my HTPC was tasked to play DVDs, music, and PC games on the 27" TV in my living room.

The experiment technically "worked"–it played movies, music, and games and I could even play the PC version of TOCA race driver in split-screen mode. However, the system was not very user-friendly and I got tired of explaining and re-explaining how to operate it to my family. It was also a little buggy and temperamental, while frankly yesteryear’s CRT televisions weren’t really capable of making even the low 640x480 resolution look readable. While it was technically an HTPC that could do the job, in reality it was still just a PC attached to my television.

Here we are, almost a decade later, and in the last few years high-resolution LCD and plasma televisions have proliferated extremely quickly. More and more folks are even running dedicated home-theater rooms with HD projectors. In addition, Windows Media Center offers the PC a truly user-friendly interface that even my wife–who is not very tech-savvy–and children can use. Between modern graphics cards being able to offer sublime image quality on HD playback and my desire to try out the latest PC games on my HDTV, I believe the HTPC’s heyday might have just arrived.

It"s certainly not 2002 anymore, and there are a lot more case options than beige-on-beige. In fact, there are a seemingly infinite number of unique and interesting HTPC cases available. Notably, we"ve seen a number of cases offering an integrated LCD touch screen that have both user-interface functionality as well as information-delivery. But are these cases well-optioned, well-built platforms for the serious home enthusiast? Are they worth their substantial price premium over an HTPC case without an LCD display? Or are they just a flashy case with a pretty face?

Let’s find out by taking a hard look at three HTPC cases with integrated LCD touch screens: the Moneual 972, the SilverStone CW03, and the Thermaltake DH102. All three offer full ATX compatibility, iMedian HD media player software, a handy IR remote, and a 7" LCD touch screen.

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Supplies integrated LCD touch display solutions, which will make the process of your development easy. The module seals LCD, touch screen, the foundation hardware and software (driver), and universal connection (USB or RS232) to PC and embedded system.

We focuses on LCD display module integrate touch screen in medium and small size less than 31 inches. Touch screen technology is the most popular form in applications ranging from industry to consumer. It is more convenient compaired with key button control technology. The input signal includes Type C, Fiber, DP, HD BaseT, SDI, YPbPr, HDMI, DVI, VGA, S-video, AV , etc.

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Supplies integrated LCD touch display solutions, which will make the process of your development easy. The module seals LCD, touch screen, the foundation hardware and software (driver), and universal connection (USB or RS232) to PC and embedded system.

We focuses on LCD display module integrate touch screen in medium and small size less than 31 inches. Touch screen technology is the most popular form in applications ranging from industry to consumer. It is more convenient compaired with key button control technology. The input signal includes Type C, Fiber, DP, HD BaseT, SDI, YPbPr, HDMI, DVI, VGA, S-video, AV , etc.

SKD modules are manufactured with steady performance and low power consumption. They are mainly applied to various facilities, such as car navigation system, HTPC, thin client PC, panel PC, POS, industrial control system etc.

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Combining silence, style, easy media access convenience, and affordability, the new HTPC 1000 series is a state-of-art media center HTPC case with hair line brushed aluminum panel. When we design the case, we think what our end user is thinking. It"s the right size for an AV case or build to place in a home theater environment. It"s user friendly with expandable data storage space and runs quiet and cool. If that weren"t enough, the HTPC 1000 includes all the options for a 20x2 LCD Media Center display and our award winning HTPCKB wireless Keyboard and Remote set for a complete HTPC solution. HTPC 1000 is superior in functionality as well as in design.

HTPC cases have been on the market for some time now. We generally referred to them as desktop cases instead of home theater PC cases. The design of each is just about the same - it"s the features that set an HTPC apart from a desktop case.

Some of these features include simple hardware such as a smaller power supply or smaller case fans. Many desktop cases are smaller than mid-tower chassis, so hardware with smaller footprints must be used. Other features, which carry functions of a media center PC such as an integrated text display and infrared receiver, are some of the things that make an HTPC just that, an HTPC.

Our first look at the HTPC case was with the D.Vine 4 from Ahanix. We took the case apart and analyzed each feature. We were not trying to review a chassis, but instead point out what was needed to have a successful HTPC chassis.

We then had our first look at a new HTPC chassis from SilverStone Technology, the Lascala 10M. We applied some of the things that we had discovered in our HTPC introduction to this LC10/M and compared it to what we thought should be the standard. We knew, however, that we could not really compare a single case to a set standard and so we come to this.

We managed to get our hands on a new model from Ahanix, the D.Vine 5, a desktop/HTPC chassis from CoolerMaster, the Cavalier 2, and an HTPC chassis from NMediaPC, a company which specializes in bringing the home theater experience to the PC, called the HTPC 100. We compare these models to the SilverStone Lascala 10M to find the best of the pack.

When using good renderer like madVR, you expect your display to let madVR do all images treatment. But unfortunately, there"s a good chance your TV does a lot of post-processing stuff which will interfere with what you would have expected.

If you respect all these conditions, then the display will act as a monitor and you should notice it in menu with a lot of menus "grayed out". The only difference I"ve noticed with another monitor, it"s a BGR one; I think RGB is most common for monitors.

Some settings you"ll have to checked if you use this mode: madVR has to be settled in 0-255 color range. Try to disable the maximum of AMD/nVidia options. In your TV menu, you might have a HDMI black level, you have to use "Normal" and not "Low". Try to use test files to verify no calibration error, or even LCD monitor calibration websites.

About post-processing, if you want to really notice Samsung post-processing, you can use the famous AVS black clipping test file. This file show some bars blinking at the right of the screen. With Samsung post-processing, even if you disable all the possible options, you will see all the screen blinking: just display the Samsung menu and you will notice this very menu blinks too.

i don"t know what my display did. but some times you can read this "24hz (5:5 pulldown)" all philips have a pc mode you can read about this in the Manuel but new display should do this perfectly too i heared sharp got problems with 4:4:4 i was interested in a Sharp Aquos LC-60LE652E but all i read about it was it can"t handle 4:4:4 so i gave up on it.

For the record, the TV I got is able to display 23,24,25,30,50,59,60 Hz, but not in "monitor" mode and it is what I don"t like. But to be honest, I don"t see judder with madVR FRC.

For the record, the TV I got is able to display 23,24,25,30,50,59,60 Hz, but not in "monitor" mode and it is what I don"t like. But to be honest, I don"t see judder with madVR FRC.

If you want to test whether your display supports RGB in 4:2:0, 4:2:2 or 4:4:4, you can use this test image. Make sure you display it with 1:1 pixel mapping, otherwise it won"t work.

but there is also a problem with these tvs all gpu i have ever tested think this display is limited color range. so i need the madNvLevelsTweaker, reg hacks with intel or i have to change this in the gpu driver from amd. if you don"t know this you get milk black and bad white.

For me, displaying a still picture (especially a lot of white) at 60Hz seems to produce a flicker, similar to CRT refresh rate flicker, I guess. Maybe that"s a plasma thing or just my brain. I don"t see it at 50Hz.

The AVS black clipping test file (assuming I found the correct one) doesn"t cause any blinking in either TV or monitor mode, but when displaying a window with a white background there"s an obvious difference between the two. The TV seems to reduce the brightness according to how much white there is on the screen. That process is very stable in PC mode. In TV mode, often after resizing a window the white background will flash a little before it settles down.

The picture is sharper in TV mode (displaying a still image). I only run the sharpness at 20% anyway, but it surprised me I had to reduce it to 0% before it looked about the same as PC mode (50% sharpness by default).

When I had search the Internet for this, I had not found a lot of information. If I remember well, "Native" is Samsung attempt to have a better display, but often it"s not optimum and people recommend "Auto".

When I had search the Internet for this, I had not found a lot of information. If I remember well, "Native" is Samsung attempt to have a better display, but often it"s not optimum and people recommend "Auto".

I hadn"t thought I could see a difference between them before, but when displaying a large block of colour like that I could. Mainly for red and green, although the difference wasn"t huge. For some reason with my TV it seemed to make no difference to yellow.

I went back to displaying a video and had trouble picking a difference between the two settings. In the end I had to pause a cartoon with large blocks of colour to reliably see a change, so I guess for my TV the difference is fairly subtle, but "auto" seemed to be correct.... I think.

It should look similar to the way it does on a PC monitor or smart phone/tablet (view it at 1:1 of course). At 4:4:4 you can see the 4:2:2 but it looks "liney" and is faint. The 4:4:4 is almost invisible on a non-4:4:4 display.

Why (I"m running XP) are the lower refresh rates labelled as "interlaced" in Windows Display Properties when it appears they"re progressive? Maybe I"m missing something obvious.

Why (I"m running XP) are the lower refresh rates labelled as "interlaced" in Windows Display Properties when it appears they"re progressive? Maybe I"m missing something obvious.

It"s different for judder which can be noticed more easily. It will always be better to have a display which can use 23,24,25,30 multiple display refresh rate.

It"s different for judder which can be noticed more easily. It will always be better to have a display which can use 23,24,25,30 multiple display refresh rate.

Eliminating artifacts by simply disabling any digital processing done after the renderer should be a lot easier... It unfortunately seems to be different on far too many consumer display devices and graphics adapters. It"s also nasty that on many devices that you"re so limited in the available refresh rates. Even CRTs from decades ago could just accept a decent range of input refresh rates (often genlocked, but that"s okay).

madVR renders in RGB which by definition does not and cannot have subsampled color. RGB is also the native format of nearly all displays, though some are BGR or RGBY.

Yes it does, 25Hz content looks very smooth and sharp on a 120Hz display with madVR"s smooth motion on. The blended frames are only displayed for 8.33 ms.

In yet another era, I had to deal with PC"s that could only process 15- or 16-bit color palettes. (Of course I"m old enough to have met 8-bit grayscale and color palettes, but I never really used them much.) Programming and designing for these was nasty. You"re always pushing pixels and then take a look if it"s looking decent on screen... In all my years of developing I never had to deal with "hidden" filters after the processing chains I wrote, except for some analog "knobs" on the display device.

It has only been the last few years that the digital era for video and imaging became common. Everything on a true professional-grade level, from various studio software, to the digital hardware used for cinemas for example, worked out very well. On the other hand, consumer devices seem to be forever stuck in the digital dark ages.I read somewhere that setting my TV in PC mode also disables all post processing, this is a good thing right?Test it yourself. I know what "enhancement" filters the video chips on consumer devices can do these days, and I"m much underwhelmed.Does this mean it doesn"t do an "internal conversion to YUV 4:2:2."?To disable post-processing; force full-range R"G"B" input from the PC/other device of choice, prevent backwards transforms to some sort of Y"CbCr format and back to R"G"B" for the display panel again, and only use the analog controls of the display device. Two chroma testing images were posted already to see if you"re in some sort of Y"CbCr 4:2:2 mode or are passing "4:4:4" through normally. I personally used the Nokia monitor test a lot in the past. That one"s nice for various test screens as well.When PC mode is enabled, text on my desktop gets alot easier to read.

Why (I"m running XP) are the lower refresh rates labelled as "interlaced" in Windows Display Properties when it appears they"re progressive? Maybe I"m missing something obvious.

The 24, 25 and 30Hz refresh rates definitely work. The TV displays the appropriate refresh rate when selecting one, but I don"t understand why Display Properties labels them as interlaced.

The options in that drop-down menu are just labels. The actual refresh rates are determined by the graphics adapter"s driver. It is possible to link such labels to refresh rates not even close to the label"s number. I don"t know where the "(interlaced)" labels come from. The system-to-driver interfaces do not allow setting that specific property at all under Windows XP. Actually, Windows XP is really bad at communicating information about refresh rates through normal system calls to begin with. The only way for a program to find out the current display refresh rate for instance, is by actively tracking VBlank intervals, or ask the monitor/graphics adapter"s driver through a vendor-specific driver interface call.

The refresh rates marked as interlaced work fine, I just don"t know why they"re labelled as interlaced. They"re only labelled that way in Windows display properties, not the Nvidia control panel. If I select a refresh rate such as 24Hz, the TV displays 24Hz as the refresh rate. Reclock seems to agree.

the Samsung UE55F8000 can show all 1080 lines in a scrolling resolution test chart, provided that the [Motion Plus] system is engaged. With this feature off, you’ll see the usual LCD motion performance, which delivers just 300 lines worth of clear details. That’s enough for 24fps movies to appear without much in the way of discernable blur, but fast, high motion content like televised sports will still appear with some.

The nice added value of enabling the 4:2:2 post-processing on those Sammy"s is that you benefit from BFI, DNIE (http://forum.doom9.org/showpost.php?p=1600258&postcount=15433), REC709"ish gamut, 24/50Hz support, etc etc....I"ve tried really hard to keep it hardcore 4:4:4 but it"s 60Hz-only and the ghosting from mVR"s FRC (http://forum.videohelp.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2572&d=1306421480) on top of the TV ghosting are quite unbearable tbh, it"s blurryland whenever something moves basically. The LCD technology requires BFI by design IMHO, at least BenQ says so: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/benq_fp241w_3.htm

Wouldn"t console gamers want 4:4:4 with BFI too? Low motion blur without chroma blur sounds good to me, does the BFI add input lag? I would think not as it should be strobing the backlight and not doing other PP. LCDs seem to need BFI for any type of content to have low motion blur.

Leeperry, I know you"ve tried several LCD, do you think there"s a brand who does a better job with post-processing ? I think I read once you was quite impressed by this Dnie from Samsung. Is this still actual ? Or have you found major defaults ?

Image retention/persistence can still be a problem with OLED, since both OLED and LCD are inherently sample-and-hold displays, which causes image retention in your eye.

The big advantage with OLED (and some LED LCD displays today, especially Sony Crystal LED display) is that you have much better control about the actual light coming off each pixel, so you can turn the light off much better to avoid these issues, but its not magically solved just by the tech itself.

If I use madVR upsampling on my HTPC, it is visibly degraded when I switch my TV to a mode which processes chroma in 4:2:2 rather than 4:4:4, when all else is equal.

Lemme clear this up once again for ya: with the ES/F LED Sammy TV"s, the deal is very simple, it"s either blurry 4:4:4 with a wide gamut or BFI 4:2:2 in a REC709 gamut. The LCD technology is worthless without BFI in many ppl"s opinion (http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/content/benq_fp241w_3.htm).

About chroma subsampling: Connecting the PC to the HDMI/DVI input and setting the label PC/DVI PC to enter this "PC mode" still has some post-processing going on that prevent the TV from displaying the picture *exactly* as a PC monitor would. Yes, I see the 4:4:4 but the 4:2:2 is still visible, and doesn"t look like it looks in a PC monitor ("liney" and faint). I only got the exact same picture of a PC monitor through the TV by going into the Service Menu, where the TV, it seems, disables almost every postprocessing. You can try yourself and double-check with a fullhd pcmonitor. So, what"s going on when we put the TV in PC mode? Does it really go for 4:4:4? Maybe, but there is something else that tampers with the picture.

Also: I connected my laptop to a PC monitor with HDMI and VGA inputs, outputting both VGA and HDMI cloned desktop @1080p and displayed every test that I have switching from input to input. Both pictures looked absolutly the same to the naked eye, even in the sharpness tests. Doing the same thing to the TV got me a much worse picture in the VGA input. Sharpness is awful (try lagom lcd test), with "greenish" blending and chroma seems off, but I think, because of the sharpness being so bad. Maybe the analog to digital conversor in this sets is just cheap, I don"t know.

Does anyone have a Samsung TV that ca ndo 4:4:4 (PC Mode) without locking out the CMS adjustment/calibration settings? Every Samsung TV I come about completely ignored manual CMS adjustments in user/service menus and its native factory calibration in 4:4:4 / PC Mode is absolutely horrible - very inaccurate colors, but not as bad as TN panels... It can"t even produce very accurate colors when I use ArgyllCMS madVR 3DLUT made from 2527 patches. I"d have to use about 4300+ patches to get to the same accuracy level as 4:2:2 mode and only a 2527 patch 3DLUT. Its the same for CCFL/LED LCD and plasma sets I ever dealt with (and there were quite a few...). It also cannot enter a 48Hz judder-free mode when in PC Mode, while regular mode with 23Hz refresh rate produces some very mild judder, but not enough for madVR to detect and enable Smooth Motion.

Funny thing is that my high-end samsung plasma from 2010 disables scaling options incl. screen fit(which is 1:1 mapping) and leaves 16:9(2.5% overscan, required option for pixel shift) and 4:3 available. In fact I can enable pixel shift but in reality there"s no overscan present so it"s probably a bug in firmware. I assume there"s no scaling performed by the display processor in the PC mode?

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independent software hardware developing HMI for high end home application remote controller charger with RF module serial interface communication low consumption lithium battery supply water proof class 7 with CTP with wide viewing angle VBN LCD Media Center Programmable LCD OEM 137 Write a Review OUT OF STOCK Overview Specs making it an essential item to complete your HTPC system Upgrade LCD Module for nMEDIAPC HTPC CasesThe nMEDIAPC PRO LCD is specifically designed as an upgrade LCD module for the nMEDIAPC HTPC case series including HTPC 280/288/500 and HTPC …

4 24 · Guangzhou Licheng is an OEM manufacturer of outdoor digital signage displays Build the comprehensive strength to respond to various needs The company has engineering cases ranging from outdoor digital signage LCD MUPI LED billboard digital Totem smart bus station It is a one stop production system and quality assurance system 1 30 · Wesena Technology here a professional manufacturer of HTPC cases OEM/ODM Headquarter in France with factories in China No screws can be found on the surface of our HTPC cases made of 100 aluminum Our agents are scattered in many countries such as US/UK/CH with customer of Intel Call me you can learn more Best Regards Johnson Wong

2 2 · Shenzhen Hotack Technology Co Ltd Hotack was founded in It is a Hi tech enterprise which mainly engaged in the design development manufacturing and sale of smart products including DLP smart projector smart TV BOX Android tablet and e book Hotack is a professional second developer of Rockchip with many long term cooperation 6 29 · HTPC ODM/OEM LCD can have the buttons for media control up to 22 buttons The buttons for media control are as like below 1 Play 2 Pause 3 Play/Pause 4 Previous Media 5 Next Media 6 Fast Forward 7 Rewind 8 Stop 9 Increase Volume 11 Mute

1 4 · The customer has to contend with the products and customizing the options provided by the model The choice of the best model between OEM vs ODM depends on the customer s product market and goal However OEM s are mostly recommended since you own the IP ODM is the cheaper option but owning IP is more important Select LCD Brightness and Op/St Temperature Range 5 Confirm LCD interface such as RGB LVDS Mipi eDP 6 Select whether you need touch with touch or without touch 7 If need with touch choose RTP resistive touch or CTP P cap touch 8 If P cap touch choose DST or Optical Bonding

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independent software hardware developing HMI for high end home application remote controller charger with RF module serial interface communication low consumption lithium battery supply water proof class 7 with CTP with wide viewing angle VBN LCD 6 29 · HTPC ODM/OEM LCD uses the custom LCD for HTPC It can show the 2Byte characters and it replaces the VFD which can show the English alphabet only and many HTPC manufacturers use it ODM/OEM LCD display is not as bright as VFD display so you need make the front display using transparent acryl but it becomes totally black during power off