flsun i3 lcd panel install in stock

I bought the same exact printer back in September. I’m getting great prints with it and i’ve made only a few minor improvements to it. Not knowing anything about 3D printers or 3D printing in general, after about a month of researching the subject, I pulled the trigger on the Flsun. I knew i wanted a kit, normallly cheaper and i wanted to assemble it to become familiar with the machine and to insure that everything was straight, square, true, and tight. I read about using M4 PZRT 2020 nuts to assemble the frame instead of the included square nuts, so an extra $10 for a pack of 50. They arrived before the printer.

And as far as Flsun’s upside-down Z motors causing Z wobble because of this or that is just incorrect. If there is any bend in the lead screws and the lower ends of the lead screws are constrained, the X axis is forced to follow along with any bow. They are better left to hang and follow the X. If you have a printer with the Z motors at the bottom, the lead screw is constrained by the stepper, right at the same relative level of the bed and x beam. If the flex coupler doesn’t provide a concentric connection between the z motor and lead screw, it can induce z wobble in to the X. I feel Flsun did it the better way and it’s better left just the way it is.

I haven’t tried the dual nozzle setups yet. I’ve got it dialed in great with the V5. Prints great. Way nicer than my friends Ender3. Hate to mess with it just to be disappointed with the dual. I think you’d be disappointed no matter what printer you installed the dual on. If and when the X carriage breaks, i’ve got a 3 wheel x carriage with plenty of accessories printed and ready to go. I think you’ve made a great choice.

I wished I had purchased an FLsun printer first...I have 2 other traditional 3d printers...I always have to tinker with them. I first got the QQ S Pro...flawless printing ( any fails were due to operator error ) Now I"ve got the Speed Racer, this unit has all of the reliability of it"s cousin but is much faster. I have been slicing HOURS off of prints, yet quality is high! Example:. 34 hours estimated by slicer...act [...]

The LCD screen is vital for operating the printer. Should you encounter any kind of trouble, such as a dead screen, corrupted text, or other issues, please refer to the guide below.

First of all, unscrew the LCD screen from the printer frame, remove both M3x10 screw holding it the LCD board in the plastic casing, and remove it from the casing. See if the problem still appears when the LCD is not pressed by the casing.

Firmware updates are necessary to keep your printer up to date. However, the installation of incorrect firmware can lead to letter corruption on the LCD screen. There"s an easy fix, though:

There is a small chance the printer"s LCD screen can glitch out by electrostatic discharge when inserting the SD card. Try to turn the printer off and on again.

This problem usually appears only on user-assembled printers. If your printer"s LCD screen remains blank or displays corrupted symbols after you turn on the printer, there is a chance it is caused by incorrect wiring. Follow these steps to fix the issue.

If you suspect that the LCD ribbon cables connectors are not firmly seated in the slots, disconnect the LCD ribbon cables and check the slots for any bent pins. If there are bent pins, you can use tweezers to fix them. However, be very careful not to break the pin(s) completely.

#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to false to not invert the logic of the probe. Note that some newer FLSUNS use a normally closed switch assembly, so they should be inverted.

FLSUN Metal Frame 3D printer is one of the clones of Prusa i3 produced by a Chinese company in DIY Kit format. The components are pretty usual for a Prusa clone but a stable metal frame worth being mentioned.