lcd panel ribbon cable repair quotation

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I suspect I already know the answer to this, but if I don"t ask I"ll never be sure. I"m a beginner, only rudimentary soldering skills. I"ve got an old Acer Aspire laptop, a little while ago it developed a flickering screen fault and after a little googling we determined it was the backlight, and I put it to one side. The laptop works fine on an external monitor, and the backlight would sometimes appear to be fine for a few minutes until the machine warmed up, sometimes altering the angle between screen and keyboard would cause it to show fine (or go completely black) etc. You can get replacement lcd cables on eBay for a few quid, if it were just the lcd cable I"d have replaced it in a heartbeat.

I opened it up tonight just as a change of project, and after a little gentle exploration (and some googling) I confirmed it was a torn/degenerated backlight ribbon cable within part of the overall LCD display - there"s a ribbon that runs from inside the panel, along the outside to a connector that is still on the panel (rather than in the laptop). Putting very gentle pressure with a plastic spudger would cause the display to light up (or go black) etc etc. It looked like the kind of ribbon cable where you just push it into a connector so I gently tried to undo it with a view to trying to reseat it - and predictably it fell apart. :-)

I just want to confirm that this isn"t something I can fix by soldering some ribbon cable onto the bit left on the panel. I mean, the iron would probably melt the ribbon anyway, even if I could source some more ribbon, and I guess that introducing even very thin gauge wiring would be almost impossible to do...?

But if there"s a slim chance that someone might say, "oh, you can do this (insert clever trick here) and it might work" then I"ll give it a go - I gave the laptop up as a lost cause, it owes me nothing and it really doesn"t warrant the £70 or so for a replacement lcd panel, but if it can be repaired then it"s something my young daughter can play with until it breaks for good.

The attachments here show the cable, how it was originally bent over itself to make a 90 degree turn, and where it goes into the socket. Also you can see where the other end of it bends off into the innards of the panel.

This instructable came about from a broken LCD control module out of a modern VW Camper Van. The LCD module is part of a control unit which was virtually unreadable and a replacement for a new unit was £400+. It really was a no lose option, either have a go at fixing it or end up buying a new unit.

The fault of the LCD was that it only displayed a couple lines of output on the LCD. The symptoms are caused by poor location of the LCD ribbon in manufacture and also the poor position of the whole module in the vehicle which exposes it to heat and is subject to vibration within the vehicle. This causes the ribbon to fail eventually and is a known common fault.

The ribbon in this display actually controls the Rows of the LCD matrix and the Columns were handled by a rubber standoff connection on the longest side of the LCD. There were no problems with the rubberized connection.

Some re-work on the LCD ribbon had already been tried with a little improvement but the poor registration of the ribbon pushed me to try a new attachment.

From the photos below you can see the LCD control unit and the state of the LCD ribbon before repair. You can just make out the offset placement and poor registration of the ribbon before repair.

Do not under estimate the patience required for this repair as some delicate and nimble work is required and i cannot stress how important it is to take your time and not rush.  You may only get one chance with this sort of repair.

The registrations of the LCD ribbon in this repair was difficult. It took me and my friend 20 minutes just to line up the ribbon for re-attachment. The ribbon in this case is sub 1mm pitch OR less than 25.4 thousands of an inch. You may want to try a simpler ribbon repair on an old LCD clock for example before jumping in head first with fine pitch.

Also the removal of the LCD ribbon is a delicate process as you do not want to tear what is a good ribbon or damage the carbon printed lines. Also the PCB must be respected to avoid introducing other faults and the the re-attachment may need an extra pair of hands.

You may also want to review the last step for results and lessons learned from this instructable before jumping in head first but i believe this will give a you a good insight to some important factors of LCD ribbons and possible success.

Other favorites of reworking the LCD connection that i have read here are the tinfoil on a heat gun. This has good temperature management but not so good in tight spaces. The solder iron with flat blade and tin foil is more precise but a 25 Watt iron can be too brutal on the ribbon.

1. Do you have enough spare ribbon to detach and re-attach? The more ribbon you have the more goes you may get but watch out for the mechanical caveat below.

2. Will you be mechanically constrained if you cut the ribbon. This is a tough one as some shortening of the ribbon may make it impossible to re-assemble the device!!

3. Is the Ribbon continuity visibly good, by that i mean the carbon connection lines are continuous and unbroken - Do check otherwise you may be wasting your time.

In the photos below you can see the available ribbon length was generous enough but do watch for mechanical constraints. In some cases you could find yourself not being able to lay down the LCD back down as it is too tight a radius to sit down.

The ribbon removal needs careful thought depending on your device. It would be difficult to write a complete panacea solution for every device so please use some careful judgement on your device.

You do not want to pull at the ribbon as you will most likely damage what you already have. In my instance it was best to cut the ribbon free as close to the PCB pads as possible.I used a scalpel to slice parallel to the PCB board to remove the ribbon. Do make a good job of this as you may need to preserve as much extra ribbon to re-attach the LCD module.

The LCD assembly was lifted off and put in safe place to avoid damage. The ribbon was then gently lifted and peeled back with tweezers to remove the bulk. You must not use force to remove the remainder ribbon especially if your PCB is off a cheap quality OR single sided cardboard type variety. The PCB pads can come off with the ribbon! If you have a double sided PCB of FR4

For either connection style  you need to remove any old glue from the ribbon and remaining carbon debris from the pads. I used isopropanol on a cotton wool bud. Do not flood the PCB with cleaning fluidas you may effect electro-mechanical elements in close proximity such as switches and other items on the PCB which are not sealed against cleaning!

From the photos you can see that ribbon was trimmed with a rounded scalpel blade.  The ribbon also had extra green tape which adhered to the original heel of the PCB pad connection. This gave extra mechanical stability for the ribbon but has to be peeled off to allow for re-connection. Later in this instructable i will mention about putting back extra mechanical stability for ribbon support.

If you have a fine pitch ribbon like i had this will cause you the most trouble. I needed an extra steady pair of hands to help and some patience before i got the the ribbon aligned. It took twenty minutes of nudging the PCB and ribbon to get a precise alignment. Our alignment was actually better than the original which was slightly skewed to one side.

The trick to get good alignment is to allow some the gold pad fingers toes of  the PCB to be visible just beyond the carbon lines of the ribbon. You then get the pads toes to line up with the carbon lines of the LCD ribbon.

Do not continue until you have excellent alignment of the black carbon lines of the ribbon to the PCB pads. The finer the pitch of the ribbon the better registration is required.

The photos below show how i handled the PCB and LCD and clamped the ribbon in place. The LCD display is being held by a plastic clamp above the PCB assembly. The PCB below which has components both sides is laying on some foam (try polystyrene). This allowed me to nudge the PCB under the ribbon into position. The plastic ruler acts as a LCD ribbon clamp. When you have got the registration get a steady handed friend to hold the ruler as a ribbon clamp in place so you can then apply the heat to stick the ribbon back down.

You may want to skip forward to the next step to see the re-attached picture of the ribbon and to see how the alignment was achieved. You should see the gold PCB pad finger toes in line with the carbon of the ribbon

1. Do not apply so much heat you obliterate the ribbon. Yes it sounds stupid but i over cooked one side of my ribbon and got away with it. You may want to test on the bit you trimmed off elsewhere to get correct amount of heat.

2. Only tack the ribbon down my pressing the heated tip down vertically and stroking from the heel to the toe. That is to say in the same line that the carbon lines flows.

Again Do not apply heat to the ribbon in one broad stroke. Work from the heel of the ribbon to the toe Or work by dabbing. By dabbing I mean hitting one spot on the ribbon with the heated tip and then lifted vertically again cooling the tip with the wet sponge before each dab.

The second photo in this step is the actual ribbon re-attached. You can see that the left hand side of the ribbon has not worked out as well as the right. I had too much heat in the solder iron. This is how i ended up cooling the solder iron with the wet sponge before applying heat.

In our case the LCD ribbon was not only glued to the PCB pads but there was some additional tape at the heel of the ribbon to hold the ribbon in place. By holding at the heel the ribbon you get some good extra mechanical support.

I did not go further with more re-work as the VW LCD module was considered a good enough result and some other time pressures intervened. It was concluded that we could read the display well enough and operate items from the controller. It was also considered as one of those quit while your ahead things!

For some people this may not be good enough but i hope that some of the steps i have listed will get people going in the correct direction when considering this. I do believe with a little more time a 100% is achievable. I took two hours to dismantle and remove the ribbon, Most of this was thinking things through... and another two hours to re-register and re-attach ribbon.

The technique for LCD ribbon removal and re-attachment are achievable certainly on simpler ribbons and fine pitch ribbons with careful preparation and thought. I hope this instructable is comprehensive enough for people to get some good results.

The ribbon is know as a "Heat Seal Connection" OR "HSC". In the industry heat and pressure are used to make this type of connection. The material comes from a family of "Anisotropic Conductive Films" OR "ACF".

The material bonds at 180 DegreeC. Direct Ribbon connection is used for economy (i.e. no fancy connectors) and for the number of connections its offers in a small footprint which would not be possible through traditional connectors.

The other end of the ribbon that joins to the LCD is terminated on the glass on Indium tin oxide (ITO) which is one of the most widely used transparent conducting oxides.

If you want more information there are many different types of LCM assemby (LCD Display plus it driving chips) to look at but these are the main ones (increasing in density):

In manufacture of these modules a machine is used for assembly which would compress HSC to the LCD Or the PCB and then apply the correct amount of heat.

very nice and complicated work but...my question is, where can I find a ribbon cable like this? I have a keyboard Technics KN2000 with a display not working because the cable was disconnected from both the glass display and the circuit board. Thank You!

I am attempting to fix a TV with vertical lines in it. Actually it was showing a black screen. I cleaned the ribbon connections and now I get an image with some multicolored vertical lines. ( good progress) . When I looked at the ends of the cable some of them were "missing" the last 1 - 2 mm of gold plating? do you think the method you used of slicing the ribbon to even the pads up is a good method? Or is there a way of replating/tinning the missing portions?

These graphite ribbon cables appear to have a layer of clear tape on either side of the graphite paths. To expose a new area of graphite paths for reconnection should the original path be damaged, the tape on one side needs to be peeled back. In my case, when I attempted to peel back the tape some of the paths fragmented and went with the peeled back tape. I suspect that in the case at hand, the peel back was not necessary and heat was used to reattach the previously exposed paths.0

My flat ribbon seems to have a plastic covering on both sides but looks just like your pictures. Must I remove the plastic covering on the attachment side before applying heat to make the connection or does the plastic stay in place and somehow act as a glue when hot?0

Attached is a picture of a screen from a Brookstone clock. I think it may be an LCD. The black pads show where a ribbon cable was connected and I see not transmission paths from the pads into the screen. How does this work? Is it really an LCD?

Are the paths in this ribbon cable covered on both sides as mine is and can you adhere the ribbon without removing any covering by applying heat? And what do I do on the LCD side where there appears to be no pads on the LCD but the ribbon cable was apparently applied in this manner?0

I have two items to add, kapton tape and sil-pads used to isolate heat-sinks from semiconductor devices. With kapton tape it brings the means to secure the ribbon to the board, place the tape over the whole connection area, and kapton resists heat very well, ( try and melt it with your soldering iron). This means an average soldering iron turned down will allow heat to be applied to each joint. With experience a rework can be done in a few minutes. The bond can also be renewed on the LCD glass as well, kapton also works here. Sil-pads allow heat to be passed to the joint with some pressure applied at the same time. The sil-pad can be dragged up and down all the ribbon connections allowing uniform heating. Once the bond is resurrected the sil-pad is discarded. http://goo.gl/mpZNkm0

It"s pretty cheap and easier to solder, then you just have to clamp the cable into the connector. Maybe you are interested in reworking that to get all lines back.

Sorry, the connector on the link doesn"t match the board design... you must search for FFC, FPC connectors with the number of vias of your cable and look for the real dimensions on the datasheet.

I just thought the same way, adding aLCD flat connector... then you can swap chinese or VDO oem screens. Seems the VDO LCD(as for Audi A3-Vw golf/jetta4) have 50 pins and the ribbons is 48mm width. Then you have to look to modify the metal bracket to avoid pressure on ribbon.

i would not rule out a connector fix totally but its nice if you can fix for zero cost if possible. Also you then have to manage the mechanical constraints as well as choosing a suitable connector. Usually only the semi flexi PCB circuits ribbons go into connectors not the carbon screen printed sort so may not be so desirable.0

I simply lifted the clear tape off from the top of the ribbon, then slowly stroked the ribbon contacts in turn a couple of times with the hot glue gun tip. Not hot enough to cause any damage.

In the photo i am only using a soldering iron covered in tin foil to heat the plastic ribbon. There is no solder used in this setup. The tin foil is there only to provide a better surface to apply heat to the ribbon (does not stick to the ribbon!!).

Actual Electrical connectivity is provided by carbon lines which are printed in the ribbon. The carbon lines only make contact via the adhesion of the ribbon.

The solder iron method technique is actually too hot and so i dip the solder iron in a sponge to cool it down before pressing down on the ribbon. If you have a temperature controlled soldering iron it would be much better.

i have an alarm clock which doesn"t have a ribbon, but instead some sort of rubbery contact strip against which the display should be pressed. You can find pics of it on google images for "lcd rubber contact strip", it seems to be called a zebra rubber. Any idea on how to glue/solder the display to that rubbery contact strip?More CommentsPost Comment

TV repair costs between $60 and $350 with most spending $207 on average for LCD, LED, plasma, and 4K TVs; costs are higher if repairing older DLP, projection, and HD TVs. TV problems like display issues, powering-on problems, or sound issues can be fixed. Pickup and delivery fees may apply.

The cost to repair a TV will include the price of parts and labor costs, plus other associated costs. Additional charges include a trip fee for a technician to come to your home, a fee to transport your TV to and from a repair shop, and the diagnostic fee to determine what needs to be replaced.

The cost to repair a TV screen can be significantly more than the cost of purchasing a new TV. For this reason, replacing or repairing a broken TV screen is not considered feasible.

For example, the price of a new Samsung 40-inch LED TV is about $400, yet the cost of a replacement display panel for this model is about $380. This price is only for the replacement part and does not cover diagnostic costs, labor costs, or travel or shipping fees.

Broken TV screen repair is not a service offered by most TV or electronics repair companies. For example, BestBuy"s 90-day warranty, does not list broken TV screen repair as one of the problems they service.

Unless you are trying to fix a TV from the ’80s or earlier, cracked TV screen repair is not feasible; the entire display panel must be replaced instead. The cost of a replacement TV display panel is more than the cost of buying a new TV, and that’s before labor and other service costs.

TV manufacturers do keep replacement TV screen panels on hand to support products under warranty in case the screen malfunctions, due to manufacturer defect.

If you still want to replace a damaged or malfunctioning TV screen, your best option is to find a used replacement panel or a broken TV of the same model on which the screen is still functional. You might find one on eBay, and you can hire a technician to change out the panel.

The cost of a used replacement TV panel ranges from $50 to $350 or more, excluding shipping, depending on the brand and size. Note that the chances of finding exactly the part you need in excellent condition are slim, and the cost excludes the cost of installation by a repair shop.

Whether your TV is LCD, LED, plasma screen, or 4K (Ultra HD), the cost to fix common problems ranges from $60 to $350, depending on the repair type and the brand of TV being repaired.

These repair problems could have more than one possible source, so a technician should take time to narrow down the exact problem. TVs are repaired by replacing faulty components.

A TV inverter repair costs $104 to $171, including parts and labor, with an average cost of $138 for a TV with one inverter board or $178 for two. Parts range from $7 to $74, and the average labor cost for TV inverter repair is $97 per hour.

When an inverter component goes bad, it is usually replaced rather than repaired. In some cases, the capacitors on a converter board fail, and a technician can fix it by replacing the capacitors rather than replacing the entire inverter component. However, if an entire inverter board replacement is not available for the model of TV being repaired, replacing the capacitors may be the only option for TV inverter repair.

If an older model LCD TV or projection TV powers on and has sound but no picture, this may be due to lamp burnout, which is both common and expected. In this case, replacing the bulb will fix the problem. An experienced technician should be able to replace the bulb quickly and easily.

TV backlight repair costs $100 to $122, including replacement parts and labor, at a repair shop. In-house repair costs are more due to trip fees. The price of backlight replacement parts averages around $2.50for each LED and between $20 and $25 for each CCFL strip.

A new inverter may be needed to power the LEDs, costing between $7 and $74before labor, or an average of $40. In some cases, a repair shop can convert a CCFL backlight to LED without installing a new inverter.

Repairing a TV power supply board costs $23 to $234 for parts alone. Completely replacing the power supply board costs $250 for parts and labor. If one capacitor has failed, the cost for replacement capacitors is low. However, it’s more cost-effective for the technician to replace the entire board rather than spend time trying to diagnose and replace faulty capacitors one by one.

TV capacitor repair costs $60 to $129, including parts and labor. The cost for the replacement part ranges from $0.06 to $14, with the labor portion ranging from $60 to $125 per hour. TV capacitors protect the circuit from getting too much power, filter signals, and facilitate changing channels.

Flat screen replacement glass is not available. The only option for flat-screen TV glass repair is to try optical glass glue, which costs $1.70 for a 5-ml. tube. This may be an option for TV glass repair if the crack is only a few inches or less. TV panels are built as one unit at the factory, with the glass adhered to the display panel.

In-home CRT repair ranges from $199 to $249. The cost of repairing a CRT picture tube ranges from $199 for a TV that is 27 inches or smaller to $249 for a TV that is 28 inches or larger.

A TV fuse repair costs between $61 and $136, with most spending $99 on average. The cost of the replacement fuse itself is $1.50 to $11, while labor ranges from $60 to $125 per hour. Additional fees may apply.

LCD flat-panel repair is not considered cost-effective. If the glass is cracked or the display is physically damaged, it is cheaper to replace the entire TV than to repair or replace the display panel.

Estimating TV repairs costs by brand is not something TV repair shops offer, however, there are general prices by type. When looking for specific repair costs for your TV, you’ll find them in the common repairs price list above. Pricing applies to brands such as Samsung, LG, Sanyo, TCL, Insignia, HiSense, Sony, Toshiba, Pioneer, and Vizio.

More popular TVs are usually less expensive to repair because repair shops order replacement parts for them in bulk, which allows them to buy those parts at a lower cost.

The cost of flat-screen TV repair ranges from $42 to $359. You cannot fix a broken screen, but the price of a new flat-panel TV starts from around $249 for a 1080-mp (non-4K) LED TV from LG to as much as $14,999 for an 85-inch 8K LED TV from Samsung. A TV referred to as a “flat TV” or “flat-screen” TV might be any of the following:

LCD TV repair typically costs $60 to $85 for diagnostics testing, and $200 to $300 to perform repairs. LCD TVs use backlighting, which may fail. Newer LCD TVs use LED strips for backlighting. Older ones might use CCFL. If CCFL backlighting fails, a technician can replace it with LED backlighting.

An LED TV is just an LCD TV that uses LED backlighting, which all newer models do (older models use CCFL backlighting). The cost to replace one LED backlighting strip ranges from $100 to $122, including parts and labor.

The cost to replace the motherboard, inverter, or LED"s in a 4K TV ranges from $100 to $275 or more depending on the brand and model. The cost for screen repair for a 4K TV is irrelevant because it cannot be fixed or replaced at a cost that is lower than the cost of a new 4K TV.

Digital light processing (DLP) TVs are also known as projection TVs. DLP big screens have not been made since 2012, and DLP TV repair is usually not worth the cost except for a lamp burnout, in which the bulb can be replaced. The cost to replace bulbs ranges from $60 to $115.

TV repair shops charge an average $60 to $125 per hour, or a flat rate of $50 to $250, which includes the diagnostic fee. Additional costs after that depend on the repairs needed and the brand and type of TV. However, most stores will have a minimum charge of about $90.

Best Buy TV repair is provided through the Geek Squad TV & home theater service. Geek Squad TV repair starts at a base cost of $100 for a diagnostic fee. TV repair is covered under Best Buy’s protection plan, which costs $280 per year when you purchase a TV from Best Buy at the time of purchase, or within the return period printed on your receipt.

The brand and model of your TV will dictate the final repair cost, with more expensive brands and larger TVs costing more to repair. Consider the remaining lifespan of the TV before paying for repairs. You can now buy bigger TVs with more features and better displays for a TV that won’t need repairs for a while and probably comes with a warranty.

The cost of labor to fix a TV ranges from $60 to $125 per hour, or a flat rate of $90 to $299. If the work is performed in your home, the cost ranges from $25 to $125 per hour plus the trip fee. Most TV repairs take 1 to 3 hours if the repair specialist has the parts already.

If you live in a remote area, you may need to ship your TV to a repair facility, costing $99 to $175. Be sure to choose a delivery service that allows you to track the shipment and confirm delivery. When sending your TV into a service center for repair, you will be contacted regarding the associated costs and asked to process payment before the repair is completed, which usually takes two weeks including the shipping time.

Many TV repair shops charge a diagnostic fee that ranges from $20 to $60, depending on whether it is done in your home or the repair shop. Some shops charge a flat fee that ranges from $50 to $250that covers both the diagnostic cost and labor cost. In many cases, the initial diagnostic fee will be applied to the repair cost if you have the shop do the repair.

The more expensive a TV is, the more sense it makes to purchase an additional warranty to defray the potential for costly repairs. Best Buy offers an $89 five-year extended warranty for entry-level TVs. On larger TVs such as the 85-inch Samsung QLED 8K TV, which costs $14,998, the five-year warranty from Geek Squad costs an additional $1,699—11.33% of the cost of the TV.

With modern TVs, repair entails component replacement or replacement of capacitors, for which high levels of certification are not necessary. Generally, TV repair shops will let you know if their employees have certification.

First, check that the connecting cable is securely in the socket on both ends. If that doesn’t work, try substituting another data cable if you have one, or test it with a replacement cable.

Satellite dish repair is either covered by your satellite service company or the cost for a technician to fix it ranges from $80 to $150. Repairs may also be billed at an hourly rate of $50 to $65.

There are various ways you might be able to save money on TV repair. These include transporting your TV to a repair shop, using a shop that charges in 15- or 30-minute increments, diagnosing the problem yourself, using salvaged parts, and doing the repair work on your own.

You can also consider the cost of TV repair when purchasing a new TV. More popular TV models are less expensive to repair because repair shops buy parts for the most common TVs in bulk and are therefore able to get them at lower prices.

Circuit breaker - Check the circuit breaker for the power outlet that the TV plugs into. You can check the breakers by opening the door to your breaker panel and looking for circuit breakers that are in the OFF position.

Power cable - Check the power cable. If it is a removable cable, you can test it by substituting a power cable from another piece of equipment in your home, or you can buy a replacement cable for this test. The cost for a replacement TV power cable ranges from $2.50 to $10.

Lamp burnout -In a projection TV or older LCD TV, no picture may be caused by lamp burnout. In this case, a technician can replace the bulb quickly and easily.

The primary way to save money on TV repair would be to perform the work yourself. This may require you to purchase and get familiar with various tools such as soldering tools, and methods for replacing a capacitor or some other component.

The right parts - It can be complicated to determine which component of a TV is failing and causing the TV not to work correctly. If you buy a replacement part and perform the repair yourself, the TV may still not work, either because you replaced the wrong part, the part was old and not working properly to begin with, or you did not perform the work correctly. Buying multiple replacement parts can become costly.

The cost of repairing a TV could be as much as $500 if multiple repairs are needed. Consumer Reports recommends not to spend more than 50% of the cost of a new TV repairing the old one.

If you have a newer TV that cost thousands of dollars, having it repaired would most likely be cost-effective. If the TV only cost a few hundred dollars to begin with, replacing the TV is more likely to be the best option.

In most cases, a flat-screen TV can be fixed. The exception is a physically damaged display panel or screen. Most other issues including failing speakers, backlights, or power supply. Burned out fuses and damaged input ports can also be repaired.

If the screen is not physically damaged but is not showing a picture or is displaying “snow’” or vertical or horizontal lines, a technician can repair the TV by replacing failed components. If the screen is physically damaged, it cannot be repaired.

If you live in a remote area, you may need to ship your TV to a repair facility, costing $99 to $175. Be sure to choose a delivery service that allows you to track the shipment and confirm delivery.

The Apple Limited Warranty covers your Apple Display and the Apple-branded accessories that come in the box with your product against manufacturing issues for one year from the date you bought them. Apple-branded accessories purchased separately are covered by the Apple Limited Warranty for Accessories. This includes adapters and spare cables.

Replacement equipment that Apple provides as part of the repair or replacement service may contain new or previously used genuine Apple parts that have been tested and pass Apple functional requirements.

It’s lucky that we found a screen, but we didn’t know the screen was working well or not? So we tested the screen. According to the test result, we thought that there were some problems with the flex cables.

Before we laminate the flex cable, we had better do some prepare jobs in advance. We need to prepare the tools in the picture for the glass separating.

Once done, the next step is to prepare tools and materials in the picture in advance for removing the problem flex cables and laminating the new flex cables on the LCD.

That’s all. Don’t you think that it is easy for you to operate? We think that this machine would be one of your excellent helpers for the mobile phone repair.