128 x 64 graphic lcd display in stock

A 2.9″ monochrome, 128×64 dot matrix, COB (Chip on Board) Graphic LCD Module in STN Positive Yellow Green LCD Mode with Yellow Green LED Backlight. It has a six O’clock viewing direction and a transflective polarizer recommended for applications that will be used both indoor and outdoor. This product has negative voltage and is assembled Chip On board with 1/64 Duty and a Controller IC S6B0107 or S6B0108 or equivalent. The interface type is Parallel. This is an ROHS compliant product manufactured with ISO standards and procedures.

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Can you control the backlighting by using PWM on the backlight voltage pin? It"s connected to Vss by default which applies the entire 5v to the pin, but if I can PWM the pin and apply a lower voltage will that dim the display? In essence I"m looking for a way to dim the display using an MCU. Also, when dimmed does it draw less current? (I"m thinking it does, less photons means less work which means less current).

Also, I"m assuming that a lot of current is most likely drawn from that backlight pin so I plan on placing a transistor between the MCU and the LCD which I will drive from the MCU via PWM.

Thanks for sharing your library. I ported it to the XMEGA style and it worked except that I need to add a reset in lcd_init(). I initialized the control port with RESET low, and then I promptly set it high.

The current version of this graphic display (GDM12864H) has a unique feature that I have not seen in any other 128x64 graphic LCD. Its pixels (and pitch) are square (0.39x0.39mm) so your circles appear as circles -- no more ellipses!!!

Thanks for posting. Please explain why you have 2K ohm connected to the V0 and VEE pins? This LCD has built-in DC converter to drive the LCD already?

Someone noted above that the voltage needs to be fairly low (~-4V) to see the darkness of the pixels. If you hook a pot up, be sure to wipe it to both extremes to see if you can atleast see a big black box when the LCD has power, then you know atleast your contrast works and you"re getting power!

astromme - I am currently working on a project with this serial graphic display and I am interested in using the MSP430 could I get a copy of the adapted Arduino ks0108 library? Thank you, this would be greatly appreciated.

You should look on the product page"s documents. There"s links to get it working with an Arduino microcontroller. Also, there is an article on Arduino if you did an online search with example code and a hookup guide => http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/GLCDks0108.

Just remember that if you connect the RES pin to your MCU like I did, you"ll have to add code to this library to bring it high during initialization, or add an extra routine to make use of it.

I"m a little late to the party here, but I"m having some issues with stability. It doesn"t like when I reset my uC (Mega644P). I"m using code derived from summoningdark"s upgraded firmware. When the screen decides to work, it"s great. Sometime if i have a scope on one of the pins it starts just fine. Doesn"t matter which pin. On my scope, I see a lot of noise on the pins. Stuff way below the 5v it"s running on. Any special tricks? Reset operations? Pullup/Pulldown resistors, filter caps?

I recently bought this LCD to use with a Maple Mini board. What Library should I use with it? I found the KS0108 Graphics LCD library on the Arduino page. That seems to be more useful than the LiquidCrystal library which doesn"t seem to work with this 20-pin LCD.

Great screen for playing around with on the Arduino. There"s a full-featured library available with some example sketches to test that your screen is wired correctly. The only downside is that the parallel interface takes up almost all of the pins of the Uno.

The one i ordered off sparkfun nearly a month ago was of the " small fraction of the glcds out there will need a reset pulse" variety? it took me a few days and several hours to realize, i had to waste another pin. The solution was to go into the library and un-comment part of the code as described at the bottom http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/GLCDks0108/

I"m looking for a similar specs LCD, but with a white or blue backlight.. I"m planning on adding it next to my motorcycle OEM screen, and being green would quite likely be an ugly mismatch.

Just can"t make mine work. Just received it a while ago and have tried all the suggestions here and nothing. It just starts with all the pixels black and remains like that.

Perhaps the datasheet has changed in the past year, but I see "Logic Supply Voltage", "Operating Voltage", and several others listed as 4.5V Min, 5.0V Typ, 5.5V Max.

I can also confirm after owning one, and attempting to interface with a PIC32MX795F512L that it will not function properly on 3.3V logic. Even removing the PIC from the setup and manipulating the I/O lines by hand, I saw improper behavior with 3.3V and proper behavior with 5V.

This is exactly what I have been looking for to hook up to a Ybox (I just want a neat little gadget to hook up my workshop, nothing too big). But the question is, (and I know this is going to sound noobish, because I am, and have just literally dived into the world of electronics with a lot of information and knowledge already but less than a month"s experience) would it be compatible?

Bought without thinking, I need power from 0ne Li-ion battery. What"s the maximum current this unit takes and is there a simple ways of operating from 3v3 (besides DC-DC converter)?

I wired mine up exactly how it is shown in the pong clock app note. when I try to give it power it starts to draw more then one amp with my power supply at less then 3v. I"ve checked my wires a few times to make sure they match the schematic on the app note.

Make sure that you have a 100 to 330 ohm resister in series with the LCD backlight. Some of the documentation is not clear on this, but the resister must be there or the LED backlight will act like a dead short as soon as the voltage rises above the LED forward bias - usually about 2.0V.

So, stupid question, the LCD screen says it needs 9V to work. Is that supplied by the circuits on the board, or do you need to create a step-up dc converter to change 5V into 9V?

While the microcontroller was running, i had to take the display off my test board, because (stupid as i was) i mounted the V0 pot-meter under it. When i connected it back it was working!

I"m going to have to throw my hat into this with GeodeLX and InkAnkUnk. I can"t get so much as a pixel out of this thing, using Csloser"s AVR code and having checked and rechecked wiring N times. Writing my own library from scratch from the datasheet also results in absolutely nothing. At least the backlight and contrast adjustment via pot works.

On the page Csloser links to, he recommends a pull down resistor. Could anyone comment on the importance of this? Could this be the cause of my one line LCD?

I grabbed the software and loaded it. The backlight works and at first I saw a few lines on the display itself (these faded). When I ran the software from that web page, nothing came out on the display. I played with the contrast potentiometer a little, but I still see nothing. The program is running (I added some Serial output for debugging).

Is it possible that I burned out the controller? Or... is it possible I just got a bad one? Does anyone have experience with these that might be helpful?

There is a very good chance you just haven"t done something right. I had some trouble getting it to work as well, but it was because the code wasn"t doing the right thing. I design and develop my own boards so I have no experience with the Arduino, but if you have a more specific question I can attempt to help you.

I forgot to mention that the LCD voltage, in my experience, should be around -4V for the display to be readable. Close to -5V will turn all of the pixels fully on and above -3V they will be totally transparent. Other units may behave differently but this is how mine works.

I intended to drive this LCD with an ATmega168, which now appears to be an astonishingly bad idea if the uC has only 1K RAM and you need that to drive the LCD. True? Or am I missing something completely obvious to the non-novice? It looks like I need a separate uC (like the DiosPro) to drive the LCD, with the 168 uC controlling the DiosPro via the UART? Happy to take advice....

You don"t have to devote any ATmega168 RAM to the LCD. This component has its own video RAM, one bit per pixel, 512 bytes total. I think you have to write whole bytes at a time (8 pixels), and it doesn"t know how to draw a letter "A" by itself, but the App Note from Kronos Robotics says they have a higher-level Dios library to deal with such operations.

This is a graphical LCD 128x64 pixel with Blue LED backlight . It can display not just alphanumeric characters but also simple graphics. Can handle 128*64 pixels.

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