anycubic photon s lcd screen factory

1. The screen will go through a strict exposure calibration test before leaving the factory. Most of the new screen damage is related to transportation After receiving the screen, first check whether the screen is normal. If there are cracks, or breakage please contact us within three days. We will give you a new screen or a refund.

2. Feedback after installation and use, it will not have a warranty. The screen is consumable.  Most of the environment, such as resin selection, printing techniques, etc, will affect the screen.

[{"id":28860788539452,"title":"Photon","option1":"Photon","option2":null,"option3":null,"sku":"S020033","requires_shipping":true,"taxable":false,"featured_image":{"id":15951344304259,"product_id":3744587055164,"position":1,"created_at":"2020-05-21T16:54:59+08:00","updated_at":"2021-04-22T15:18:33+08:00","alt":null,"width":931,"height":935,"src":"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0245\/5519\/2380\/products\/20200521165345.png?v=1619075913","variant_ids":[28860788539452]},"available":false,"name":"2K Quad-HD LCD Screen for Photon - Photon","public_title":"Photon","options":["Photon"],"price":3900,"weight":0,"compare_at_price":null,"inventory_management":"shopify","barcode":"","featured_media":{"alt":null,"id":8121857802371,"position":1,"preview_image":{"aspect_ratio":0.996,"height":935,"width":931,"src":"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0245\/5519\/2380\/products\/20200521165345.png?v=1619075913"}},"requires_selling_plan":false,"selling_plan_allocations":[]}]

[{"id":30084941119548,"title":"White","option1":"White","option2":null,"option3":null,"sku":"PSB1WH-Y-M","requires_shipping":true,"taxable":false,"featured_image":{"id":11337501671484,"product_id":3688784166972,"position":1,"created_at":"2019-05-21T11:05:19+08:00","updated_at":"2021-11-20T11:19:02+08:00","alt":null,"width":1000,"height":1000,"src":"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0245\/5519\/2380\/products\/Photon_S-_1.jpg?v=1637378342","variant_ids":[30084941119548]},"available":false,"name":"Anycubic Photon S - White","public_title":"White","options":["White"],"price":37900,"weight":9600,"compare_at_price":37900,"inventory_management":"shopify","barcode":"665275773006","featured_media":{"alt":null,"id":1862449627267,"position":1,"preview_image":{"aspect_ratio":1.0,"height":1000,"width":1000,"src":"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0245\/5519\/2380\/products\/Photon_S-_1.jpg?v=1637378342"}},"requires_selling_plan":false,"selling_plan_allocations":[]},{"id":30084941283388,"title":"Black","option1":"Black","option2":null,"option3":null,"sku":"PSB1BK-Y-M","requires_shipping":true,"taxable":false,"featured_image":{"id":11337504522300,"product_id":3688784166972,"position":2,"created_at":"2019-05-21T11:05:43+08:00","updated_at":"2021-11-20T11:19:02+08:00","alt":null,"width":1000,"height":1000,"src":"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0245\/5519\/2380\/products\/Photon_S-_1_bed3e02b-8a72-422b-b8f4-b955073fa885.jpg?v=1637378342","variant_ids":[30084941283388]},"available":false,"name":"Anycubic Photon S - Black","public_title":"Black","options":["Black"],"price":37900,"weight":9600,"compare_at_price":37900,"inventory_management":"shopify","barcode":"665275773006","featured_media":{"alt":null,"id":1862449692803,"position":2,"preview_image":{"aspect_ratio":1.0,"height":1000,"width":1000,"src":"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0245\/5519\/2380\/products\/Photon_S-_1_bed3e02b-8a72-422b-b8f4-b955073fa885.jpg?v=1637378342"}},"requires_selling_plan":false,"selling_plan_allocations":[]}]

Η GRobotronics σέβεται και προστατεύει τον καταναλωτή απο τυχόν ελλατωματικά προϊόντα και απο αγορές στις οποίες δεν έμεινε ευχαριστημένος. Προσπαθούμε να παρουσιάσουμε τα προϊόντα μας όσο καλύτερα και αναλυτικότερα γίνεται μέσω εικόνων και περιγραφών. Επιστροφές γίνονται δεκτές μόνο όταν τηρούνται οι παρακάτω όροι και έπειτα αποσυνεννόηση με την εταιρεία μας.

Σε περιπτώσεις όπου αναλαμβάνει η εταιρεία μας την χρέωση μεταφορικών για την επιστροφή προϊόντων, θα γίνονται δεκτές μόνο όταν αυτές στέλνονται με κούριερ ACS.

Επιστρέφετε το προϊόν με έξοδα τα οποία αναλαμβάνει η εταιρείας μας. Το προϊόν ελέγχεται απο τον κατασκευαστή και πραγματοποιείται αντικατάσταση ή επισκευή. Το προϊόν στέλνεται πίσω με έξοδα τα οποία αναλαμβάνει εξίσου η εταιρεία μας (μόνο με κούριερ ACS).

Without any prior announcements, Anycubic quietly started to ship these machines to unsuspecting buyers. These new printers look exactly like the original Photons (with steel bodies and yellow windows) but are not. The motherboard has been changed, making them an entirely different printer that only looks like the original.

These look-alike Photons (commonly called Faux Photons or Fauxtons) share the same mainboards (PTB2BK) with the Photon-S and could then only print new *.pws files as they had Photon-S mainboards, making them incompatible with the original Photons.

Due to community outcry, in early November 2019 Anycubic were finally forced to admit that they were indeed shipping these Fauxtons. In an official announcement on their Facebook page, they apologised for the "confusion" their ambiguity caused and clarified that they were still shipping the original Photons side by side with the lookalike Fauxtons and that buyers would have to specify their preferred versions. Since then, the new Fauxtons (and the Photon-S) received firmware updates allowing them to print original Photon files.

As of mid-November 2019, all Photon printers shipping from China are the new Fauxtons. Last remaining stocks of the original Photon were still being shipped only from NA and European warehouses.

Unfortunately, since the Fauxton look physically the same as the original Photon, the only way to tell is to check the firmware version or check the motherboard inside. Look-alike Fauxtons ship with firmware version v3.x.x or v5.x.x).

All newer original Photons and new Fauxtons look-alikes come with Yellow windows. Older original Photons (prior to August, 2018) had Blue windows. Blue doesn"t block UV well and they were changed to yellow later, with newer firmware, slight revisions to uncap the top end of the Z lead screw and include a better PSU.

Originally, the file formats were incompatible. Since the November 2019 firmware update for the Fauxton (and the Photon-S), original Photon files can now be printed on the new Fauxton. This post on the Photon Owners Group provides details the confusing state of the various different file formats (before the Fauxton firmware update).

The Photon-S was released in February 2019, supposedly as an interim upgrade to the original Photon. However, it turned out to be a sidegrade, rather than a true upgrade. Due to the different motherboard, it"s actually a completely different printer altogether.

When first released, the fundamental difference was that the S model was not file compatible with the original Photon, and thus could not use any of the original print files sliced for the original Photon. With the November 2019 firmware update, it can now print original Photon files although initial user reports say compatibility is buggy.

Do note that many of the essential community software and tools that have been developed for the original Photon are not compatible and do not work with the S model (or new Fauxton).

Contrary to many misleading online reports, when first released, the S model did NOT have anti-aliasing (AA) while the original Photon had this important feature via an unofficial firmware and an official AA firmware update in May 2019.

In August 2019, Anycubic finally released a new firmware for the S model which included the AA feature, but with the update the file format was changed from *.photons to *.pws and made it incompatible. It also broke Chitubox slicer support for the previous file format. At that point, no other slicer (except for paid ones) supported the new *.pws format. Since the November 2019 firmware update, compatibility has been restored.

Two column guide sliders on the same central Z lead screw instead of a single column slide. (Note that these are just simple sliders on guide rods, not recirculating bearing linear rails.)

You will also need a known good branded USB stick (beware of fakes), formatted FAT32. The included usb stick is known to be problematic and prone to eventual failure. Transfer all the files from it to your known good USB stick and use that instead.

No, it"s not necessary, and not recommended at all. Set your printer up and do the test print first. Make sure that your Photon is functioning as it should before considering doing any firmware updates.

Do not update if your Photon is working well. If you"re running older firmware and need AA functionality, do not update to version v4.2.19 as that version is buggy, it is recommended to use v4.2.18 instead.

Incorrect build plate tramming (levelling) is the number one reason for print failures. It is a statistical fact, most of the issues posted on the Anycubic Photon Printer Owners Group invariably traces back to imperfect build plate leveling as the root cause.

Once your build plate is leveled correctly and locked down tight, you do not have to relevel it anymore unless you make other adjustments that affect the build plate.

Press Home to bring the build plate down before starting to make build plate leveling adjustments. If you do not Home first, it will not set Z=0 correctly.

After setting Z=0 verify that it is set correctly by removing the vat and starting a print (aka dry run), put a piece of paper on the screen and check that the build plate starts the first layer at the correct Z=0 position that you have set.

If you are using the recommended paper method, the paper should be tight enough to pull out with even resistance but not able to push back in. Remember that the build plate must grip the paper evenly.

Remember that as you tighten the setting (grub) screw it will move the plate down a tiny fraction more. You will find that you cannot pull the paper anymore, so you should raise / backoff the build plate level by 0.1mm (100um) until the plate is gripping the paper with even resistance, and that you can pull but not push it back. Then only set Z=0.

Just regular photocopy paper, they"re generally around 80gsm, but any paper 70 ~ 120gsm (average thickness ranging from 0.05 to 0.10mm) should work too. Just ensure that the paper is clean and not creased or folded.

Using your fingers, push the opposite side of the plate when tightening the grub screw. Alternatively, if you"re using the paper method, you can slip another strip of paper to the side which is too tight and then tighten the screw. You may need to try this a few times to get perfect level.

If no matter how much you tightened the grub screw to lock the build plate down and the plate still moves, remove the grub screw and check if there"s another one already in the hole. Remove the extra screw and retighten.

Home is not Z=0! Home is fixed, it is the hardware Z endstop, unless you change it physically, it will always be the same position. Z=0 is the offset distance between Home and your screen, you define it when you level the build plate, that"s why you have to Home first then move the platfrom, then set Z=0.

When a new Z=0 is specified, pressing Home will NOT move the platform to the position you specified, it will be the start position when a real print actually starts. You can check it by removing the vat and starting a print. (Thanks to Philippe Maegerman for the original explanation.)

No, it is absolutely not necessary. If you have correctly leveled and then tightened and securely screwed and locked down the build plate tight, it will remain in place and correctly leveled for a very long time.

Make sure you have really tightened the setting (grub) screw to lock the build plate. You only need to relevel your build plate if it has slipped or been knocked or you made changes that affect the Z=0 position.

If not, then it is absolutely NOT NECESSARY at all. Contrary to all the claims and misinformation being repeated that sanding away the blue anodized colour solves adhesion problems, it does not.

When you have correctly leveled, the blue anodized aluminium surface of the stock build plate provides plenty of texture to ensure good adhesion. Adhesion is so good that some owners have difficulty removing prints.

Speciality castable resins such as Bluecast are monomer-free formulations. In this situation, the anodized surface of the build plate inhibits adhesion of the oligomers used.

Bluecast recommends the use of a primer coat as a solution. In the Bluecast Users Group on Facebook, a post by Bluecast recommends to sand the build plate as well. Do note that raw aluminium will self anodise in time, so periodic sanding may be necessary.

That"s not true at all. Once again, it is not about the texture (there"s already plenty on the stock blue build plate), it"s about build plate flatness and the resin formulation. If your build plate is leveled correctly and its surface is flat, and you"re not using speciality monomer-free resin such as Bluecast, you will have good print adhesion. Resin will adhere even to glass as you can see in this video by Photocentric.

Did you just switch resins? Did you use an unsuitable resin formulated for SLA Laser or DLP printers? Are you using speciality castable resins? Did you mix the resin properly before use? Is the resin expired? Is it too cold? There are many factors that may affect print adhesion. Keep testing to find the root causes for your plate adhesion issues.

Some resins such as Anycubic Maroon or Monocure Rapid are known to be notoriously difficult to obtain adhesion. This is due to their formulation. Try other resins, or increase bottom exposures by 10 second increments and keep testing.

Castable and other speciality resins such as Bluecast (monomer-free) generally need longer bottom exposures and the help of a primer coat. Primers are basically just uv glue and can be found online cheaply. You can also try LOCA (Liquid Optically Clear Adhesive),

For the vast majority of regular modelling resins, ensuring a leveled build plate and increasing bottom exposures should enable plate adhesion. Do not pay for uv glues marketed as miracle cure adhesion bonding concoctions.

If you"re positively sure it"s not the resin or other factors mentioned above, and you"ve got your build plate leveled perfectly, and it"s not warped or defective, and you still can"t get a print or some parts didn"t stick to the plate, try following these steps very, very carefully.

You may have a warped or defective build plate, the plate surface may not be true and flat. Check for flatness by placing a steel rule across the build plate, against a light source, check if there are any uneven gaps showing.

It would be more accurate to check by making an imprint. Lightly coat the build plate surface with engineer"s blue dye or evenly roll a thin layer of printmaking ink. Place a sheet of paper on a known flat surface such as plate glass or polished granite /marble, then press the build plate on the paper and check the imprint for blank spots.

If you"ve verified that the build plate surface is not flat, you can try to achieve a true flat surface by a process termed lapping. Unfortunately, most people will not have the tools or skills to achieve this. Try bringing your build plate to a machine shop nearby, they"ll know what to do.

If you want to try this at home, do not simply go rubbing the build plate with sandpaper, you"ll probably make things worse. Proceed only if you have the necessary tools and know-how to achieve a true flat surface.

When you receive your new Photon, it will come with an aluminium vat frame with a FEP film already installed. Check that the film is tight by lightly tapping with your finger. If it is tensioned correctly it should sound just like a snare drum.

Sometimes the screws may seem loose, but it may be tensioned correctly from the factory. Do not simply tighten the screws or you may then over tension the FEP.

If it sounds like a snare drum when you lightly tap with a finger, it should be good enough. But since hearing is subjective, to be precise, you should use an audio analyser to check, factory tensioned FEP film (about 127 to 150 microns thick) is around 350Hz, but anything between 250Hz to 375Hz is fine.

Some owners have obtained good prints with tensions as low as 150Hz, but there are also reports of leaking vats at those low tensions, For that reason, we advise 250Hz to 350Hz. Be careful when adjusting, over tensioning above 375Hz may tear your FEP film, or may cause bad prints. (FB post)

When your print peels from the FEP film, there are a lot of suction forces involved. Unlike more expensive machines, the Photon does not have a tilt peel mechanism, it therefore relies on the flexibility of the FEP film to provide a clean and successful peel.

If the film is too tightly tensioned, your prints won"t peel off properly and may stick to the build plate, too loosely tensioned and it"ll have layer lines or other unwanted artifacts.

A correctly tensioned FEP therefore will give the best print results and avoid print failures or delamination problems. For an example of print problems which was only resolved by proper FEP tensioning, check this FB post.

No, FEP (fluorinated ethylene propylene, invented by DuPont, sold under the brandname Teflon FEP), is already one of the most slippery materials known to science. Coating your FEP film with a hydrophobic substance like Rain-X may in fact cause bad quality prints.

When new, the film is clear. But it is easily scratched by handling or cleaning. Use soft tissue to soak resin when cleaning up the vat, do not aggressively wipe the film as even tissue will scratch it. These micro scratches cause the film to go cloudy. Buffing the film with microfibre cloth will restore some clarity. It is important that the film is kept clear to ensure sharp and detailed prints.

If you take care of it, it will not need to be replaced for months. FEP film needs to be replaced only when it becomes too scratched up or cloudy from use. If it is not replaced your print quality will deteriorate. Replace immediately if it is punctured or torn. If you notice cured resin on your LCD glass, it means the film may have a micro tear.

Watch the video by Anycubic for a detailed step by step. It is important to note one very important omission in that video: some replacement FEP film may come sandwiched between two layers of protective plastic. These have to be peeled off before the FEP film can be used.

It"s difficult to see if there"s protective plastic film on your FEP. An easy way to test is by dripping a few drops of resin on your FEP film, then hold the film vertical. If the resin slides downward easily without sticking and leaves the FEP clear, it"s good. If the resin sticks where you dripped it and moves slowly or smears, then you have protective plastic which needs to be removed.

Not advisable. There"s a reason why FEP (Fluorinated Ethylene Propylene) is used. Besides low friction, non-reactivity, flexibility, high heat resistance, high transparency, uv resistance, etc., it is also one of the most slippery substance known to science.

The bottle cap, 30mm diameter x 13mm height, will allow some slack to the film, so that when you tighten the frame down you will get approximate tension. If you don"t do that, you will over tension the film and it may tear. If it didn"t tear, later on you"ll be wondering why all your prints fail.

None. The test file that came on the included USB stick has been pre-sliced and settings configured for the 250ml bottle of translucent green sample resin. All you need to do is select the file and print. If you didn"t receive this sample resin with your printer, or received a different colour sample, only then will you need to change the exposure settings. You will then need to either do an exposure test for your resin, or consult the quick settings chart (see below).

You first need to convert those 3D models by generating sliced layers into a format that your Photon understands and can print. This is done in what"s known as a slicer program. A free slicer program comes included in the usb stick provided with your printer.

If you"re new to resin printing, the included slicer is best to start with. Once you"ve familiarised yourself with the basics, there are other slicers with more features you can try. Here is a list of slicers that work with the Photon.

Every resin behaves differently, there are no best settings that will work for every resin and every machine. For a quick start, you can refer to the community resin exposure settings. Those settings should enable you to quickly get a print going but you will need to test and adjust from there to find the best settings applicable for your machine.

It used to be only possible via a messy and time consuming trial and error method involving multiple bracketed prints. But thankfully we now have the Photon Resin Calibration Test aka the Photon XP Finder. This test enables you to find the optimum settings for your resin, matched to your machine, all in one simple and quick print.

For Anycubic branded resin, first check if the date is printed in black ink. If it is, then that is the production date. For other resin brands, unless it is clearly stated, double check with the manufacturer first whether the date codes are production or best-by dates.

Generally, most resin manufacturers advice that resin be used within one year. The dates are basically "use by" dates, not expiry per se. In practice, when kept properly in a cool dry location and unexposed to light, resin can be stored and used without issues.

This is assuming you"re using the Anycubic Photon slicer program (rebadged Chitu slicer v.1.3.6) that is included on the USB stick. Other slicers may use different terminology but they"re functionally the same. If you"re just starting out, it"s highly recommended you use the Anycubic slicer. It"s basic, won"t overwhelm you with bells and whistles, and just works.

This is how long the UV light will turn on to set the layer of resin that is on your build plate for the first few layers (it"s extra long to give the resin the best chance to stick to your plate and form a super hard base to help keep your part from wobbling and rocking about.) For the sample green resin at 0.05mm layers, the exposure for bottom layers is 60 seconds.

After your base layers have finished this is the time the UV will be on to cure all the rest of the layers of your print and will always be lower than your base/bottom layers setting, For the sample green resin at 0.05mm layers, the exposure for normal layers is 10 seconds.

Light off delay. This is the amount of time that the UV light is turned off between the end of one exposure cycle and the beginning of the next. After an exposure, the UV light turns off, the build plate lifts and peels, then descends ready for the next cycle and will wait at the bottom (resting at the set layer height over the FEP sheet, at the bottom of your vat) before the UV light comes on again for the next exposure cycle.

Longer offtimes leave more time for the resin to settle out and form a new layer with fresh resin. This is especially useful for more viscous resins to mitigate issues of poor definition of surfaces facing the build plate

If unsure, leave the value at 1, your printer will then default to the firmware settings, usually 6.5 secs for older printers or firmware, 4.5 secs for newer printers or firmware. Any value below your printer"s defaults will be ignored. The fastest prints are at default settings.

Vent holes are often improperly called "drain" holes, they are not for draining resin. Imagine a glass full of water upside down in a bucket of water. When you pull the glass up out of the bucket, it stays full until the lip of the glass breaks the surface of the water in the bucket.

In the vat, the lowest point of the print, the new layer does not (generally) rise above the level of the liquid resin in the vat. Therefore, the liquid resin inside the "bowl" or "cup" cannot evacuate, unless you add a vent hole. This is a significant cause of failures. You have to reduce the work that the stepper motor has to do to lift the platform.

Initially, In the printer vat, the inside volume of resin will be pulled up. Eventually, depending on the volume of the inside space and the volume of resin in the vat, the new layer will rise above the fluid level because the surface of the fluid will be moving down at ever increasing rates with each layer. That is, the level of the fluid inside the space and in the vat are actually moving in opposite directions. When that happens, all of the fluid inside will be released, but now you have a trapped volume of air, so you will alternate between struggling with lifting up and struggling with pushing down.

Without vent holes, it"s really a recipe for bad prints. The result is that you can get multiple failures at various heights, depending on where these extremes occur. Formlabs has a good article on model orientation,v enting and suction cups.

It depends on the software. Two popular free programs that make it easy to hollow your models are Chitubox and Meshmixer. Here is a link on how to hollow with Meshmixer.

This is due to your offtime (or light off) settings in the slicer. The program will calculate the print time based on the offtime value that you set, it is an estimate, it does not reflect the actual print time. To get an accurate estimate that matches your actual print time, time your actual offtime and use that value in your slicer program.

No. For simple models, auto supports should generally work but as with anything automatic it will never be perfect. For a start, you can use auto supports and supplement with manual supports on parts that the software missed. But it will be best to learn to place your supports manually and precisely, you will find that you will need less supports and produce better prints in the long run.

There isn"t one best angle for printing everything. It really depends on your layer height, and the type of model you"re printing. Don"t forget that model orientation also plays a big part to determine the best angles. You could actually be losing details printing at the wrong angle for the layer height.

This image by Michael Van Kesteren from the post on the Facebook group shows the approximate best angle for each layer height to maximize details and minimize layer stepping (pixelation / aliasing) lines.

It is highly recommended that you print it. The test file has been presliced for the included sample green resin, all you have to do is select the file and print.

A successful test print will confirm that your Photon works as it should, and that you have properly leveled your build plate and your FEP tension is correct. It will also confirm that your machine will reliably work as the test takes over five hours.

If it did not print successfully, then troubleshooting will be easier as you can rule out various other problems such as with resin, settings or slicing.

Do not exceed the line, if there is too much resin, it will rise from displacement and cause a spill. Or get into the screws and ball joint of your build plate. There have been reports that resin in the ball joint may cause the build plate to slip and shift during a print, making it out of level. Besides, once resin cures in there, it"s also difficult to clean.

Yes , no problem. You do not have to pause the print, just slowly and gently pour resin into the vat. Make sure to not bump or touch the build plate while pouring. Be mindful of displacement when adding resin.

Make sure to mix the fresh resin well before adding. Try to ensure the resin temperature is the same, if the difference is more than 5~10 degrees Celsius, it may cause a layer line.

Yes, you can pause at anytime during your print. Resume as quickly as you can to ensure that your print will continue safely. However it is generally not recommended as it will most likely leave a line at the layer where you paused.

It"s completely normal. It"s a good sign that your print is sticking to the build plate and that the layers are releasing from the FEP film. It will be more audible during the first few bottomlayers of the print, don"t worry if you can"t hear it later on as it depends on the layer section being printed.

One easy way to tell is by listening for the sound that"s made as the layer peels off the FEP. You can hear it clearly especially for the first few bottom layers. Don"t worry if you can"t hear it anymore later, it varies depending on the size of the layer being printed.

This is normal for the test print. The test cube is supported only by three prongs on the base, as the plate rises the print is releasing from the FEP film in a side to side flex action, hence the wobble. If your build plate is leveled correctly, the test cube will finish printing successfully.

First, ensure that your exposure settings are optimal for the resin used. Underexposure causes thinner parts, while overexposure will swell. Many of the basic resins swell when printed. There could also be slight shrinkage. It all depends on your settings and the brand of resin and formulations that manufacturers use. It usually isn"t noticeable on organic prints.

After testing your resin performance, you can make the adjustments for the model itself in software. This method is not advisable as it will differ if you share the model, or use a different resin as the compensation will then be off.

Some commercial slicing software have a "horizontal size compensation" feature that can make precise adjustments. Chitubox has also announced this feature for a future "Pro" version.

There are many resins available and are formulated for various usage. Most are general printing resins suitable for models, figures, decorative and non functional prints. When deciding on resins that need to be strong, the resin must be formulated with a high degree of hardness, which also makes it brittle. Therefore, to be both strong and functional, a certain degree of flexibility needs to be blended in. For a start, check the Shore D (Shore Durometer) rating of the resin, then check the flexibility or tensile rating. A high Shore D rating over 80 combined with a high flexibility rating indicates a strong resin.

Build plate is too high or low, this is caused by incorrectly seated ball joint screws. Disassemble, clean and retighten the build assembly. See disassembly guide below.

The FEP film may be too tight or too loose. New vats sometimes comes with loosened screws, but they could be correctly tensioned. Adjust to the correct tension, or replace. (FB post) (how to tighten) and (how to replace)

You may be using resin formulated for SLA laser or DLP printers. Try using a known resin like the sample green. Note that some resins like maroon or yellow are very difficult to work with.

If your prints have good bottom adhesion but fail at the supports, this is generally due to incorrect exposure setting for your normal layers. As a first step, try increasing exposure.

The best layer slices for a good balance of speed and quality is 50um (0.05mm) thickness, but (depending on resin) some owners have sucessfully printed at 100um (0.1mm} layer thickness. Use the Resin Exposure Finder from the community projects to test if your resin can print at that layer height.

During the printing process, resin components form covalent bonds, but layer to layer, the part remains in a semi-reacted or semi-cured state. While in this semi-reacted state, the resin retains polymerizable groups that can still form bonds across layers. Polymerization only stops when resin is fully cured via post-processing in a UV station or sunlight.

Simply put, during printing, the layers of the model facing the FEP film are always sharply defined as the layer is exposed perfectly against it. Whereas the layers facing the build plate, previously exposed, still receive uv light from diffusion/defraction/scattering from the current exposed layer and thus will still cure slightly. This is akin to overexposure and thus details will be lost. Coupled with this, some resin always remains around the bottom parts (facing the build plate), and will also bond and cure to the details as well.

When you switch on your printer, you may have noticed that the little fan in the print compartment automatically turns on, and stays on. That is the number one cause of resin smells from your printer. What this fan claims to do is to draw smells into a charcoal filter below it, but in reality all it does is to circulate and distribute smells out of the print compartment and into your room.

The simplest solution to reduce smells, without requiring complicated and time consuming additions such as in-line fans, ducting and drilling, is to simply disconnect that little fan. Here are several ways to do this:

Unscrew the two screws that hold the fan onto the red base plate, lift the fan, cut the red and black wires, tape and insulate the wires, and remount the now deactivated fan.

Finally, there"s also a gcode to switch the fan off, but it will be reset when firmware is updated. Search the Facebook group for fan_off.gcode if you"d like to try this.

Check the LCD settings in your slicer program. There should be a tab where you can select between LCD_mirror, DLP_normal or Normal. The correct setting should be LCD_mirror. Here is a screenshot of the selection tab for the Chitubox slicer, it should be similar in the Anycubic slicer and others.

The recommended method is the two tub system. Fill both containers with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) or other solvents such as 95% Ethanol. Although not necessary, heating the first tub to around 45°C helps dissolve the resin faster.

Drop the print into the first tub and swirl for several seconds. Use a soft brush on hard to reach parts, crevices, etc. Then dunk the part in the second tub of solvent and rinse clean. Do not leave your prints soaking too long in the tubs. Remove then dry thoroughly (blow drying with compressed air works best) before uv curing.

Resin manufacturers universally recommend 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) or 95% Ethanol. Other solvents may be used but generally not recommended. Do not pay for overpriced cleaning solutions marketed for 3D resin printers. Here is a solvents compatibility chart published by Formlabs for their resins which can be used as a general guide for most resins.

For as little time as possible to get your prints cleaned of uncured resin. Do not leave your prints to soak. Some manufacturers advise no longer than 30 seconds. In a post, Formlabs mentioned that prolonged exposure to solvents may make some resins swell from absorbtion. In a related article, Ameralabs tested prolonged soaking of parts in IPA and found consequent shrinkage and cracking.

Use soft tissues and a small spray of IPA to remove any dust and stains. If there is dried resin on the glass, you can carefully scrape it off with a razor. Finally, buff the glass with microfibre cloth.

Damp a piece of cloth or tissue with IPA then lay it on the cured resin. Wait a few minutes, then with a fingernail gently try to prise the layer of cured resin off the LCD glass. If you can"t easily prise it off, use a razor or glass scraper, but be careful with that.

Once you have drained the vat of resin, spray down with IPA and gently wipe off with paper towel or soft tissue. Spray again and use soft tissue to soak off the remaining residue from the FEP. You may need to repeat this several times. Finally buff the FEP with microfiber lens cloth. Be careful of dried resin on the cloth that could scratch or puncture the FEP.

Manufacturers universally advice the use of a solvent like 91% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) or 95% Ethanol, Proprietary cleaning solutions or other solvents may also be used such as Mineral spirits (aka White spirits, Turpentine), etc.

Anything containing uncured resin if no curing is possible should be disposed in a hazards facility near you. Uncured resin is considered extremely hazardous to the envoirenment and must be cured before disposal.

Resin saturated water (for the water washable resins) and Saturated solvents should be cured in the sun and evaporated, resulting solids can be disposed in the solids trash.

Yes, if you regularly cure the washing solvents along with your printed parts and filter out the solids your solvents will last longer. For methods to filter, see this FB post. about it

It depends on environmental factors and type/brand of resin, typically if the resin is kept out of light and moisture/dirt it may sit in the vat for a few weeks. Clear resins tend to sit better, opaque resins will need more stirring before use to mix the pigments back.

Cover the vat, you can cut a piece of cardboard that fits over the vat, or print one out on an FDM printer. Here is a good vat cover found on Thingiverse.

Do not leave the build plate hanging with uncured resin, take it out and clean with IPA, leave it out until you are ready to print, this will lessen the weight on the single lead screw thus prevent deformation and potential Z wobble.

Water washable resin works because it uses water soluble monomers. Water isn"t an acrylate. Water can not cure. When you dilute resin into anything that"s not capable of curing, it won"t be inert again.

Even after you expose the mixture to UV, the photoinitiators in the diluted resin water will still cleave and generate free radicals. If some acrylate molecules are nearby there will be a tiny bit of chain growth taking place. The spent photoinitiators, pigments, and the portion of the resin that actually cures will settle out, but the rest will still remain diluted in the water.

What this means is that resin cannot cure to completion in solution (water). It cannot cure due to change in concentration of reactants and there will be contaminates in the wash that are not safe down the drain.

The only proper way to dispose of the wash is to reduce solution by evaporation, and then collect and UV cure the resin residuals and dispose of them properly.

Congratulations on having a well leveled plate. Sometimes prints adhere so well that removal is difficult. Try the following methods to remove recalcitrant prints, in order of recommendation:

The best way to find out if your print has cured enough with sunlight or a UV light set up is to find an area where you don"t mind a mark and try to dent it with your fingernail, If you can then it"s not ready yet, and as soon as you can"t dent it it"s ready. Do not overcure as resin may become overly brittle, and white or clear resin will turn yellow.

It depends. While it is easier to remove before uv curing (it"s softer and you can just pull or rub them off), you may want to remove them after, especially thin parts that may warp during the curing process.

It depends on the resin used. Unlike PLA or ABS, regular hobby grade resin prints are quite brittle and can easily break when dropped. There are specially formulated resins for prototyping or even functional usage which have different properties such as flexibility, hardness and uv resistance. Once you have familiarised yourself with your printer using the sample green resin, you might want to experiment further with different resins.

The white residue appears if there"s moisture or water on your prints when you UV cure. One way to avoid this is not to wash your prints in water after cleaning in solvents. Always make sure your prints are completely dry before final UV curing.

Make absolutely sure that you have tightened the grub screw that secures the build plate fully. This can also happen if there"s another grub screw already in the hole preventing tightening fully. Also check that the screws in the carriage arm of your build plate (there are three of them in there) are not loose. Or, if you had overfilled the vat and resin has gotten inside, it makes the grip of the ball joint slip. You"ll need to disassemble the build plate assembly and clean thoroughly with IPA then.

First remove the 4 bolts you can see just either side of the carriage arm (with the red platen knob on it) put them some place safe then take the build plate off, you will see three more screws, unscrew these and then you can take the mechanism of the ball joint apart, be sure to note where it all goes so you can easily put it back together again.

Now you have it all apart, clean everything with IPA and remove any cured or uncured resin you find, Then just put it all back together nice and tight and relevel the build plate.

My Photon doesn"t work anymore, the touchscreen is fine but the Z motor stopped working, the fans are off, and the LCD doesn"t show anything. Is my printer dead?

If you had accidently switched the printer off in the middle of an operation, or if there was a power disruption, it may cause a corruption to the EEPROM. The printer can be easily revived by resetting the EEPROM by reflashing the.gcode file. Download the factory defaults, extract the .gcode file, put it on your usb stick and "print" the file.

Nothing much really. Keep everything clean by wiping down with a microfibre cloth slightly dampened with IPA. Wipe resin drops and spills off immediately with IPA and tissue. Keep your vat and FEP clean. Keep the LCD screen perfectly clean. Dust off and keep the printing compartment clean. And every three months or earlier, depending on usage frequency, clean and replace the grease for the lead screw. If it squeaks, do this immediately.

Wipe all the old dirty grey grease off with a cloth rag, or kitchen towels. Then really get it clean by wiping again with solvent and use a toothbrush to get between the threads. IPA works great. Make sure solvent doesn"t drip down into the stepper motor beneath. When it"s clean and dry, regrease with good quality grease, apply by dabbing onto the entire length of the screw, then switch on the printer and run the slide block up and down.

Although not strictly necessary, most owners apply tape as an added safety measure in case of resin leaks or the LCD being pulled off together with the vat.

According to the warranty terms stated on Anycubic"s website, the standard warranty period is three months for the LCD mask panel and UV LED unit. All other components (except tools and FEP film) are warranted for twelve months.

Most of the information, insights, tips and tricks were gleaned from posts by the helpful members of the Anycubic Photon Printer Owners Group, tested, verified and curated by the Photonsters team. Special thanks goes out to Flint Read for his invaluable "Photon Guide & Tips" from which formed the initial core of this FAQ.

3D Printers└ 3D Printers & Supplies└ Computers, Tablets & Network HardwareAll CategoriesAntiquesArtBabyBooks & MagazinesBusiness & IndustrialCameras & PhotoCell Phones & AccessoriesClothing, Shoes & AccessoriesCoins & Paper MoneyCollectiblesComputers/Tablets & NetworkingConsumer ElectronicsCraftsDolls & BearsMovies & TVEntertainment MemorabiliaGift Cards & CouponsHealth & BeautyHome & GardenJewelry & WatchesMusicMusical Instruments & GearPet SuppliesPottery & GlassReal EstateSpecialty ServicesSporting GoodsSports Mem, Cards & Fan ShopStampsTickets & ExperiencesToys & HobbiesTravelVideo Games & ConsolesEverything Else

"For successful resin 3D printing, uncompromising accuracy and quality is a must. Therefore, the Anycubic Photon M3 Premium is perfect for the 3D printer enthusiast. Equipped with the Anycubic LighTurbo 2.0 and an 8K LCD monochrome screen, it can deliver supreme accuracy to 28.5 microns. The LighTurbo 2.0 has a high light uniformity (＞90%), highly collimated light (divergence angle＜3°) and an ultra-low stray light level (1.26%). The Anycubic Photon M3 Premium offers a premium user experience for those who are looking for intricate details, and ultra-high quality printing", said James Ouyang, Vice President of Anycubic.

The Anycubic LighTurbo 2.0 light source uses the technology of a COB light source, a concave mirror, and a light source smart cooling system. With the design of the concave mirror, the light can be collimated and turned into an aligned and consistent beam. Here are the benefits of the Anycubic LighTurbo 2.0:

The Anycubic LighTurbo 2.0 Lighting System can deliver an average light uniformity of over 90%, much higher than the average light uniformity of the common COB light source + Fresnel lens. Therefore, it can be ensured that all the printing details and textures are at the same uniformity level when printing large objects.No aperture pattern issues

Different light sources have different degrees of diffraction of light. The lower the dispersion value of the product light uniformity, the fewer trace patterns in the printed model. Data from Anycubic Lab shows that the COB light source + Fresnel lens solution has an average light dispersion value of 105.02, while the average light dispersion of the Anycubic LighTurbo 2.0 ( COB+concave mirror) is only 36.205, more than twice lower. So, it can contribute to a better print result. In addition, it can eliminate the aperture patterns issues caused by the surface of the Fresnel lens.

Light will stray as it travels. So as printing proceeds layer by layer, there are some places in which accumulated resin may appear. Thus, the prints here won"t be cured thoroughly and will lose detail. According to data from Anycubic Lab, the stray light level of the LighTurbo 2.0 is 1.26%, much lower than the 3.47% stray light level on the COB Light source with a Fresnel lens. Thanks to this, more consistent and stable print results can be achieved, while at the same time, there is a reduction in the loss of print accuracy caused by the semi-curing issue in some parts, thus ensuring users can print out the whole model without missing any details.

Also, the Anycubic Photon M3 Premium is equipped with a sensor on the back of the COB lighting system to detect its temperature. When the temperature exceeds 65°C, the smart cooling system will activate fans to accelerate cooling. With the large heat sinks on both sides of the COB light, the heat will be effectively dispersed to ensure that the working temperature of the light source is within 65°C, thereby significantly extending the life of the COB light source.Large build volume provides more space for your printing ideas

The Anycubic Photon M3 Premium is designed with a build volume of 25*22*12 cm. With its large build volume, users can have the convenience of printing large formats, for multiple uses.Ball screw Z-axis with two linear rails contributes to fast lifting and eliminates layer lines

The Z-axis runs on two linear rails and features a ball screw. Compared to a T-shaped threaded rod, a ball screw structure can provide a higher lifting accuracy of 0.005mm, double the accuracy of the Z-axis compared to a T-shaped threaded rod, thus eliminating layer lines. Since the ball screw experiences rolling friction between the nut and the screw instead of sliding, it can provide a smoother and faster lift during the printing process. According to data from Anycubic Lab, the fastest printing speed of the M3 premium reaches 95mm/h. It can save 2.5hours in printing a 12cm model compared with other 8K 3D printers with a T-shaped threaded rod mechanism Z-axis on the market.

Anycubic Photon M3 Premium serves up an 8K monochrome LCD screen that provides 7,680×4,320 pixels and a 28.5um XY resolution. Combined with an incredible 380:1 contrast ratio, it gives an amazingly crisp detail to your 3D printing.Dual air purifierscan vacuum all the fumes from resin 3D printers and filter those out. The design of symmetrical purifiers makes the air outlet area 1.5 times larger, contributing to a higher air purification efficiency.

Bigger volume resin vat with NFEP liner filmcan hold more resin and allow you to make larger prints without adding resin during the printing process. NFEP is a specially treated printing film that has a smoother and more delicate surface than FEP film. Models printed with NFEP film will have lower viscosity levels so that the pulling force won"t be as strong during printing as with FEP. This means that the success rate will be higher. According to the data from Anycubic lab, the printing success rate with NFEP is 10% higher compared with FEP film.

Compatible with Anycubic Cloud app to provide remote operating. Meanwhile, users can choose from over 20,000 STL files to download and print through the app. After downloading the STL file they want, users can start their printing job remotely through the app anytime and anywhere.

The Anycubic Photon M3 Premium 3D printer will go on sale at 3:00 am EDT Nov 1st, 2022 in the US market from the special price of $619, and presale in Europe at 8: 00 am CET Nov 1st, 2022 from the special price of€699. You can buy from the official Anycubic store, Amazon, eBay, Walmart and AliExpress.

Manufacturer of FDM or LCD technology 3D printers, Anycubic has some of the most popular models on the market. Their great value for money and ease of use make them the ideal equipment for those users who want to get started in this manufacturing technology.

Anycubic Photon M3 has a print volume of 180 x 164 x 102 mm, larger than other resin 3D printers on the market. This allows large printing projects to be realised without any problems. In addition, thanks to the Anycubic LighTurbo system, the matrix LED beads provide powerful light energy (luminous intensity 30,735 lux), which allows speeds of up to 50 mm/h to be achieved.

With a resolution of 4096 x 2560 px, the Anycubic Photon M3 printer is capable of producing parts with high dimensional accuracy and intricate detail. The new print surface, made of an aluminium alloy, has a laser-etched textured checkerboard pattern that improves part adhesion and print success rate dramatically.

In addition, it features a 7.6" monochrome LCD display with 400:1 contrast, 100% higher than its competitors, resulting in parts with a better surface finish.

Safety is of paramount importance for home 3D printers. That is why Anycubic Photon M3 has a top cover made of a material that blocks 99.95 % of UV rays. This cover is transparent, so the user can safely observe the printing process. A scratch-resistant protective film is included to protect the LCD screen, which greatly extends its lifespan.

With a user-friendly interface, Anycubic Photon M3 makes the printing process a more intuitive activity, minimising any possible difficulties in setting parameters or operating the device.

Like all Anycubic 3D printers, Photon M3 is compatible with Anycubic Photon Workshop, the free Slicer. This software is easy to use and ideal for configuring printing parameters.

Thanks to its features, low cost and ease of use, the Anycubic Photon M3 LCD printer is the ideal choice for users who want to get started in resin printing and obtain high quality finishes.

Photon-S is a resin 3D printer from the Chinese manufacturer Anycubic. It is a later version of its pretty famous predecessor, Photon. This series of DUP machines is a staple of affordable 3D printers for photopolymer resins. Photon-S utilizes a 2K LCD screen as a curing source and provides a build volume of 115 x 65 x 165 mm.

Anycubic Photon is one of the most popular and low-cost resin 3D printers on the market, that gained popularity due to easy use and maintenance, high resin compatibility and good value for the money. This machine is still popular now, despite later versions released by Anycubic and other brands jumping onto the market of low-cost resin printing. Let’s start with the changes and upgrades of the S model.

Both visually and structurally Photon-S looks slightly different. Moreover, the enclosure and the machine are now primarily plastic, making the printer weight less, which is a questionable change from the metal Photon. The printer has wider “windows” to monitor the process, though, Photon didn’t have a significant issue with that. Additionally, the machine lost handles on the sides and front.

Photon-S notably has dual rails in Z-axis, which isn’t that common for an affordable DUP printer. Unstable Z-axis can be a source of print artifacts and quality issues, so having 2 of them helps get smoother work from the printer.

Printing bed on Photon-S features a “hairline build plate” or, simply put, textured aluminum. This tiny relief on the plate helps the print to grab onto the plate and sit safely during the printing process.

Anycubic upgraded the operation process of LCD screen, which in S model features a focusing lens for every diode. This change provides better resolution and reduces excess curing. Additionally, the power of the light source has grown from 40W to 50W. While Photon featured only 4 diodes on the plate, Photon-S has 28.

Photon-S has a different control display and UI. It also has a second air filter (while Photon had only one). Other small but handy features are the ability to run an exposure time test, which is available after firmware update, and the alias slicer option (which smooths the surface of the print).

Moving to the similarities, there are lots of them as well. The structure of the resin tank and build plate stayed the same. Anycubic’s own software for slicing is required for Photon-S, too, and with the firmware upgrade, the machine loses its ability to read files sliced in another software (like Chitubox). Overall, for users of Anycubic Photon, there aren’t many reasons to move to S model. However, for starters that look to try out resin printing without breaking the bank, Photon-S would be a preferable machine.

Works great for a beginner. I find after so many prints it needs a slight buff from grit paper otherwise it starts to fail prints. I also use a different software but overall happy with the printer.

This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data.