amiga lcd monitors factory

I have a brand new 4:3 15" monitor I got this year that I"m very pleased with. The bonus (for me) is it has an 1024x768 native resolution. The reason that"s special is my Amiga"s graphics card has that resolution as one of its settings.

I specifically wanted a "small" screen, too, as it very closely matches my Commodore CRT screen sizes and angles. It"s actually 1 extra inch, I believe, but it"s pretty close. I have a 19" LCD that my older eyes appreciate, but it does look a bit odd sitting on top of the elegant A3000.

That being said, the 4:3 monitors I have that are non-HDMI and simply work with my Amigas are not brand new. It depends on what you"re going to plug them into, and which cables you get matter, too. Big Box Amigas use one type of cable while the all-in-ones (like the 500) use a different one. Buffered vs non-buffered.

I have a brand new 4:3 15" monitor I got this year that I"m very pleased with. The bonus (for me) is it has an 1024x768 native resolution. The reason that"s special is my Amiga"s graphics card has that resolution as one of its settings.

I specifically wanted a "small" screen, too, as it very closely matches my Commodore CRT screen sizes and angles. It"s actually 1 extra inch, I believe, but it"s pretty close. I have a 19" LCD that my older eyes appreciate, but it does look a bit odd sitting on top of the elegant A3000.

That being said, the 4:3 monitors I have that are non-HDMI and simply work with my Amigas are not brand new. It depends on what you"re going to plug them into, and which cables you get matter, too. Big Box Amigas use one type of cable while the all-in-ones (like the 500) use a different one. Buffered vs non-buffered.

Does this monitor handle 15khz through the RGB port (via VGA)? If so, how does it handle the various modes? I"ve been looking off and on for a really good LCD monitor that I can just plug into my stock A1000.

One of the major issues facing returning or new Amiga users is displaying the video output. This instalment of the beginner’s series touches on the technical issue itself then presents some solutions that people in the Amiga Retro Brisbane use.

This article makes reference to modifying the Amiga or other hardware. While the author believes all the information contained here is correct, please conduct your own research prior to beginning any electronics work and please do not undertake an electronics project if you are not confident and not prepared to risk the destruction of whatever you are working on. CRTs contain high voltages and should only be worked on by experienced personnel. The author and all other members of ARB, and any of our affiliates, do not accept any liability arising from this article including personal injury. All electronics is carried out at your own risk. You have been warned!

The Amiga’s standard video output in Australia, the UK, New Zealand, and Europe, is a PAL 4096 (12-bit) colour at various resolutions with a 15 kHz Horizontal Sync* (being an Australian site we will focus on PAL machines in the beginner’s series). This meant that the Amiga’s video output was compatible with the CRT televisions and monitors of the day. This also means that it is NOT compatible with modern televisions or modern monitors, including most VGA monitors from the 1990s and 2000s, which require a 31 kHz input. The video port itself also presents an issue, being pretty much the only device in the world that uses a D-sub 23 port. Thanks Commodore!

*AGA and ECS Amigas can be made to output a VGA compatible 31 kHz signal, but this is really only useful for software that will run under Workbench 2.0 or greater. It will not work for most games, which are hard-coded to run at 15 kHz.

If price is no object or your Amiga came with the original monitor then use it, that"s what it"s for! Commodore and other vendors produced 15 kHz monitors and multisync monitors (monitors that can display 15 kHz and VGA) that are designed for the Amiga. They are the easiest solution since there is no requirement to make a cable, and they are the only solution to people who are interested in historical accuracy.

Many other computer systems of the day, including Apple II and Atari ST machines, as well as arcade machines, use a 15 kHz video output. Monitors from these machines can be made to work with the Amiga provided a suitable cable can be obtained or manufactured.

The Amiga video output is able to be used with the European SCART input, and in fact some versions of some Amiga monitors such as the 1084 came with a compatible SCART cable. Unfortunately SCART is not common in Australia. If a SCART TV or monitor can be found all that is required is a suitable cable. While the construction of such a cable is outside the scope of this article this may be the subject of a future article. In the meantime just ask and we can help, or look up Amiga SCART on your favourite search engine.

While they are not common some modern LCD monitors and TVs will accept a 15 kHz RGB signal. All that is required is the 23 pin to 15 pin buffered adapter (these are reasonably cheap, try AmigaKit or eBay) and a VGA cable. A list of monitors that MAY be compatible with the Amiga’s RGB signal can be found at http://15khz.wikidot.com/. Be careful choosing one as some monitors do not let you adjust the aspect ratio or horizontal width and can force the Amiga"s video to display widescreen.

Back in the 1980s Commodore often bundled the A520 with the A500 and they are fairly common even today. The device connects to the video port of the Amiga and output a composite and RF signal for display on a television. While composite (and its RF derivative) has a poor picture quality by nature (six signals are being compressed onto one analogue line), if the only aim is to play games it is a low-cost solution. The A520 can also be modified to output S-Video for a much clearer output (S-Video being an intermediate step between RGB and Composite), refer http://members.iinet.net.au/~davem2/overclock/A520.html and note that this has not been ground-truthed by the author. Also note that there are PAL and NTSC editions of the A520, in Australia we need PAL.

There are other options that connect to the Amiga’s video port. The Author is aware of at least two S-Video adapters. The first is based on the ADZ724 video encoder, and there are many versions of it on the internet including this one https://www.everythingamiga.com/2017/02/amiga-rgb-to-s-video-adapter.html (note that the schematic is for NTSC but it’s easy enough to change to PAL, also not ground truthed but no reason why it wouldn’t work).

There is an open source RGB to component (YCrCb) adapter called the A520HD by GG Labs https://gglabs.us/node/983. While it does output component video the Amiga’s output is only 240p and is not compatible with all televisions.

The Amiga 3000 has a built in flicker fixer/scan doubler based on the Amber chip. It’s the easiest way to get VGA from an Amiga – it does it from the factory! Commodore and other vendors also made internal scan doublers for the other big box machines (2000 and 4000). These are the most historically accurate scan doublers and are a good solution if budget is not a concern.

The big news of 2021 was the release of an open source HDMI video adapter for OCS and ECS Amigas (i.e. A1000, A500/+, A2000, A3000, A600, CDTV). It"s built around the Raspberry Pi Zero, which takes the digital outputs from Denise and outputs them to its HDMI port.

It is possible to modify most if not all TVs made in the 1990s and 2000s to accept an RGB input. This involves intercepting the signal between the microprocessor and the jungle chip and inserting the Amiga’s video output there instead. This option is definitely the most budget option as it uses about $10 worth of parts (plus a cable to the Amiga). This may be the subject of a future article but in the meantime try Googling “RGB hack”. Do not attempt this if you do not know what you are doing as CRTs have extremely high voltages that may still be present after the set has been unplugged; refer the disclaimer.

Australian company Microbee makes a D23 to D9 cable http://www.microbeetechnology.com.au/store/amiga-video-cable-kit-23pin-male-to-9pin-male.html suitable for some 1084 monitors, the GBS 8220, and the Red Keg SVideo adapter mentioned above. It is preassembled for $22 plus postage and is recommended as an easy solution. Amiga SCART cables can be found on eBay for roughly $30 delivered from Europe.

So, since I did order an ST2VGA adapter from Centuriontech some time ago just as a backup way to connect this to something (and thank God I did!) I figured I would test some monitors I have around the house. The adapter has a switch to go from "low" or "high". Low being the low and medium color resolutions and high being the high res monochrome.

I"ve discovered some of the older DVI monitors don"t work with new CPUs and laptop docks.  Other than this I"ll run a monitor until it fails or it gets replaced with a 24" 1920x1200 or larger monitor.

The original LCD"s & such had only about a 3-year life before they died, and a lot of in-warranty failures.  Now they seem pretty stable and can have a useful life, if not a 2nd life on the tertiary markets.

I’d say they work until they’re obsolete and replaced by something better. Most CRT worked until they were replaced by first gen lcd, then widescreen hi res stuff.

Monitors generally don"t fail. But I do remember my good old Nec multisync II 17" CRT.  It worked for years at work before I took it home and worked for years. But then my two-year old found it. He thought it was hilariously funny to press the power button. Since it was a CRT it made this funny sound when turned on. After some time (half an hour?) of extensive power-switching it just gave up and never made any more funny noises.

We"ve replaced virtually no monitors like for like because failures and issues that affect use are very rare. I"d expect monitors we are buying to be used for 5-10 years in use depending on when improved screens become affordable. For example our default monitor size and quality has been the same for a couple of years and will likely stay the same for another year or more.

Like everyone else has said.. they work till they don"t, most are replaced because they are so old that they are 4:3 square 19" and only have VGA inputs and newer machines come with Display port/HDMI/DVI and the new computer GPUs don"t always like these old monitors so as we replace computers we are replacing these old monitors with much larger resolutions & more energy efficient screens. The only failures we are really seeing in the old monitors is that they are so old that the image starts to blur or look like the monitor has been on the booze and has given itself double vision that cannot be corrected.  Outside of blurred image on screen and some fading of the colours displayed on screen monitor seem to work forever(5+ years)

I think I have had 1 monitor die in the last 10 years. All the others just run until they are no longer needed. I can"t really remember anyone complaining about monitors dying in Donkey years. We have had a couple go pink or aqua but that doesn"t count as totally dead and they were at least 8 + yrs old.

I budget them for 10 years. Most of the ones that have failed is because of user accidents (who knew that monitors don"t like water). Besides direct failures like a power supply, older monitors can fade over time. I always replace them with bigger monitors but monitor envy is a real thing...

our old 2010-2011 Dell monitors are just starting to fail, and mostly because people misuse them, or bang them around.  we"ve still got some very old Dell 15" and 17" VGA-only monitors working in our labs and they"re tanks.  very rarely have a monitor fail that wasn"t abused.

I dont know what the actual lifetime of my monitors is, they don"t ever break and eventually get replaced. I just picked up an 32" HP Omen 1440 afew months ago.

Monitors from the early 2000s where bit by the bad capacitor blight that the motherboards and PSUs of the day also had, but since then monitors just keep going until they"re obsolete. 1280x1024 19" monitors with a DVI connection might have been the hotness back in 2006, but that"s because we didn"t have anything better. Try to use one of those today and you"ll be working a lot slower than another employee with a 24" 1080 screen, much less two screens. We"ve still got some employees using those old 19"s and I can"t help but feel sorry for them every time they have to minimize the single window that was open so they can reference the other window they"ve got open behind it.

We have Dell monitors that are a little over 9 years old that we"re finally replacing. They"re still working pretty well, we"ve only decided to start replacing them because our workstations are setup with 3 monitors and adapters are required to work with the Dell D6000, TB16, and WD15 docks.

Hmm, it"s hard to say. With old crt type monitors it seemed those lasted forever. Lifespan of over 5 years for sure. You got tired of them before they pooped out.

I"m feeling the same way about newer types of monitors also. I"ve seen mostly Dell, HP and some Viewsonic. Those things are like the Energizer bunny anymore.

On our last few equipment refresh periods we purchased monitors so that users could add a monitor or some users just wanted larger monitors. Not because the monitors had gone bad. If I had to put an average age on a typical monitor I would also say it would be good for at least 5 years. If it makes it past the first 90 days with no issues it"ll probably last a long while.

At my previous company, I used to buy the best newest monitors for the office people and take their old monitors for use out on the shop floor where they got dirty - either for PCs or cameras for quality. This was normally when the older monitors became blurry but they were properly old CRTs in the end or another workstation was added.

For modern LCD monitors 10 years+, (we buy only Professional-line Dell hardware, over 200 of them), unless someone does something dumb like pour a Coke into them.

Some of my Amiga monitors from the 1980"s still work but they have issues with cold solder joints, failing power switches, and flybacks.  Hard to find someone willing to repair one of those, these days!  ;-)

Monitors are weird though.  Some work forever and make you regret buying new because they simply work.  Then there are others that die almost like clockwork.  Yes, I still have a Windows98 Dell with it"s original CRT monitor and it all still works.  Can"t let it go because of my old games.

Our Art room gets new monitors every 3 years and they are passed down through the super users and department heads. Most the other monitors are refreshed in this trickle down method until they reach the factory floor. They will stay there until they die. We have some that are 10ish years old out there but they die at a pretty steady pace once they are in that environment.

We just recently completed our project for replacing all existing 4:3 17" monitors (Gateways, NECs). They were sent off to e-waste. Survived over 10 years, and hardly any of them died since I was hired on. What has died are a lot of Samsung monitors, all of them newer than the 17" models we tossed. One just died on Monday and was only two years old. The same thing happened in my previous job. Samsung monitors going kaput left and right. I had a personal one at home that also failed. I"ve sworn off them now. Their TVs seem to work great (most of the TVs in our office are Samsung and have been around for years), but why can"t they keep monitors from failing?

I have seen some of the old Dell built-like-a-tank LCD"s last for 10 years or more.  Some of the first generation LED"s I"ve seen fail after only a couple years.  I think a lot has to do with the brand, build quality, where they sourced the parts, etc.  Air flow around and through the unit can have a lot to do with longevity as well; this can be affected by both monitor design and placement.

One thing to keep in mind with the older LCD"s with a fluorescent back-light is that fluorescent bulbs lose brightness over time.  After many years, the monitor might still power on and display an image, but it won"t look as good as it did when it was new.  The user might not notice this being the case, because it happens gradually and they don"t notice slight degradation on a unit they stare at for several hours every day, until it gets really bad (sort of like how you don"t notice yourself or someone you"ve known for years and see every day aging until you look at a picture of them from several years ago).  Not sure if LED"s do this or not, but at least the marketing leads us to think it won"t, or at least will do so much more slowly. (I once had an LED alarm clock with the red segmented digits which lasted about 25 or 30 years, constantly powered on almost that entire time.  The display did finally start to get dimmer and dimmer before it failed altogether).

I have replaced faulty counterfeit capacitors on many a LCD display power board, and to the one they all came from the same power-board manufacturer.  So yes; in your case is was a known issue, but not the fault of Acer.

LCD displays that I got in 2003.  I would get larger displays, but I am too cheap to throw these away since they are still working perfectly, and I never needed to repair them.

I have over 600 monitors in use.  All are Dell Ultrasharp or Dell pro series monitors. All are LCD or led monitors.  We only replace monitors when they die.  The oldest monitor I had in use was an Acer 14 LCD monitor. It lasted 14 years. Many of our monitors are over 10 years old. I say purchase a quality monitor and you will not regret it.

"This is the nicest LCD I have ever seen on Amiga. Just use a RGB to VGA adapter and it works VERY well. Highly Recommended. Added by R-C-MAN. (specs)

"Tested via SCART with A1200 revision 2B at 320x200, 320 x 256, 320x512, 640x200, 640x256, 640x512, 1280x256, 1280x512. First time I switched it on it had persistent flicker, 2nd time, 3rd time fine. Picture quality is ok (LG M2232 MUCH better for comparison - but the auto aspect ratio button on the remote does default the Amiga screen to 4:3 and centred. Pixel refresh rate appears higher than M2232D so interlace modes are terrible (they"re ok on M2232D)). Important thing, it seems to work. Will test on Atari ST via RF later

Amiga PAL/NTSC works (Low and high are usable, super high works, but texts are not readable). Uncorrectable aspect ratio. Interlaced flickers. Faint vertical banding. "Perfect" settings: H. Position 51 - V. Position 38 - Pixel clock 94 - Phase 7. Model 9H.L3RLN.IBE September 2010 (specs)

Has speakers, connect using jack. Model ID: GW2480-B, Type: GW2480E, Rev.: 10-130-BL, P/N: 9H.LHELB.CBE, Tested on Amiga, All video modes working including ECS and AGA modes. Laced also works with classic Laced flickering. If certain video mode is applied then aspect ratio correction is not possible, but "it is so beautiful, that it even isn"t needed" (as in a shrapness manner) when happens so. Monitor correctly reports input resolution. Certain video modes allows for aspect ratio correction (720x480@60 is correctable).

Has speakers, connect using jack. Model ID: GW2480-B, Type: GW2480E, Rev.: 10-130-BL, P/N: 9H.LHELB.CBE, Tested on Amiga, All video modes working including ECS and AGA modes. Laced also works with classic Laced flickering. If certain video mode is applied then aspect ratio correction is not possible, but "it is so beautiful, that it even isn"t needed" (as in a shrapness manner) when happens so. Monitor correctly reports input resolution. Certain video modes allows for aspect ratio correction (720x480@60 is correctable).

(Supports picture-in-picture). PD: Jul-02-2019 I purchased a model made in April 2005 but it will not work with PAL Amiga 1200 with RGB > VGA cable. JesperG: 06/6-2021, I found one from February 2005, it deos not work with native Amiga systems.

15 KHz works in both NTSC and PAL with a plain VGA cable. All modes worked perfectly on A500 rev 5 board with ECS Chipset. Auto resized when changing from Pal-NTSC and games displayed properly and full screen in 4:3 with no clipping. Has several internal settings, but other than changing my color, brightness and contrast preference, I used it straight out of the box. Someone changed my review and entered severely WRONG info. You need to NOTE the date, revision and year for USING monitors posted here that DO WORK. Model number used is P2214hb Rev A06 December 2015., NOT 2016, NOT 2014, NOT 2214, NOT rev b, etc..

(specs) confirmed working 29/06/18 with RGB-to-VGA adapter from Amigakit. Recommended settings to remove vertical banding (menu, display settings) - H position 20, Pixel Clock 90, Phase 30 (A500) or 60 (A1200). May depend on individual Amiga.

HiRes/LowRes PAL works with pixel and phase adjustments, I ended up with Pixel Clock 94, Phase 74, but it might depend on your hardware, Tested with a buffered RGB->VGA adapter on Amiga. It can also run DblPAL but you need to tweak the TotClk value on the Amiga and Pixel/Phase on the monitor if you want it perfect, you might also need to run borderblank for it to sync. Seems to display NTSC modes too however this wasn"t tested much.

U214MB (PAL, China, October 2012) tested Nov 2022 with Amiga 3000 (flicker fixer disabled) with a plain VGA cable. 15 kHz works in PAL (NTSC shows out of range; this may be the other way around in the US). It supports PAL, DBLPAL and MULTISCAN modes, with and without interlacing, but it does not deinterlace and the flicker from that is obnoxious. The menu allows switching of aspect ratio between 16:10, 4:3 and 5:4, with black bars on the sides but no stretching as a result. Display adjustments are retained when switching between distinct modes (e.g. PAL and DBLPAL).

Tested U213HMt manufactured May 2014 in China. This monitor needs a flicker-fixer to work, but with the flicker-fixer on the Amiga 3000 enabled the experience is okay and somewhat similar to the U2412M (menu"s, etc). The U2412M is a more appropriate choice though, and mine does not need a flicker fixer.

Monitor supports standard Amiga 15kHz PAL/NTSC modes and 30/31kHz modes. Interlaced modes display OK, but with flicker. No support for 20-28kHz video modes.

Works with an Amiga 600 SCART RGB at all PAL resolutions. Some flicker in interlaced modes when Intuition is drawing the screen, but no noticable flicker at 640x256p or 1200x256p. Needs to be manually put in 4:3 aspect on first use. (Service Manual), (Operation & User’s Manual)

* Not according to specification - but it does. Tested with Amiga 1200 1D4 at 320x200, 640x200, 640x256, 640x512, 1280x256, 1280x512, via composite and RGB Scart. Works really well with RGB SCART. Also works with PlayStation 2 via SCART in SDTV mode. Also works on Atari 520STFM connected by modulator RF cable in low and medium res. When i switch the SCART connected Amiga off, TV automatically returns to the Atari screen. Bonus.

* Not sure about specification, situation maybe similar as in case of M2232D-PZ. It works perfectly though via RGB<>SCART cable with such Amigas: A500 R6, A600 1.5&2.0, A1200 1D3, 1D4, 2B, CD32 Rev4, A4000D and A4000T

This one can even handle interlaced modes of Amiga 500, 1200 and not properly on Falcon 030. Has vertical stripes with many games (depending on their precise vertical refresh rate, like 49,8Hz or 49,9Hz), which can be compensated by using the "automatic" setting in a game that actually works fine without stripes (i.e. Xenon II). There is an optional stereo soundbar with 3.5 inch connector available for this monitor, which can be attached to the bottom of the monitor. PAL Hi-Res does NOT work right! The image is vertically stretched about twice the display"s height! The monitor and soundbar was available in white and blgack/silver color. The "p" stands for PVA. (another test) (specs)

Aspect ratio has to be set manually and is kept across all screen modes and inputs. Picture is very nice, though. Interlace flicker is much less uncomfortable than on other LCD screens. Perhaps the only 4K display with VGA port and 15kHz capability!

Although this is a TV it has a VGA input. I have tested it using a PAL Amiga 500 using an AmigaKit VGA adapter. All games run full screen so are a bit stretched.

Some users report success. One user with a PAL Amiga 500 reports an NTSC 510N manufactured March 2015 in Malaysia won"t sync at 15kHz using an unbuffered adapter. (specs)

Dell sells LCD-based computer monitors. Dell bundles monitors with its desktop computers as package deals, as well as selling them separately through their online store and some other retailers.

"UltraSharp" is a hi-end line of Dell monitors equipped with basic professional features (such as factory calibration, brightness/color uniformity compensation, and others).

Amiga monitors have never been especially easy to find, but as time moves on, they get even harder. In a pinch you can use a television, but that has some drawbacks. Fortunately there are some other modern alternatives. The Dell E1912HF is a good example, though not the only one.

The Dell E1912Hf looks for all the world like any other $90 VGA LED budget monitor. But the revision A00 will work with an Amiga, Atari ST, or Apple IIgs.

It turns out some flat panel displays from the current century will accept a 15 kHz signal, like the one produced by Amiga, Atari ST, and Apple IIgs computers. One early favorite was the Dell 2001FP, but that monitor is starting to become hard to find in its own right. It was a high end monitor so it existed in limited quantities compared to its contemporaries. Fortunately, many more recent lower end monitors that did sell in large quantities will sync down to 15 KHz, even if they officially want a 24 or 30 KHz signal at minimum. The Dell E1912HF is one good example of an inexpensive low end LED flat panel that works well with an Amiga, Atari ST, or Apple IIgs. If you can find one of the right vintage. I’ll let you in on the secrets.

Fun fact: Dell considered buying Commodore, but didn’t think of it soon enough to conduct due diligence so they never made a bid. But it’s just a coincidence that some modernish Dell monitors work with Amigas. Amiga hasn’t been on Dell’s radar since 1994.

Online, expect to pay around $50 after shipping. There’s usually at least one or two available on Ebay. Just examine the listing so you know what you’re getting. You’ll need to get an Amiga-to-VGA adapter too if you don’t already have one.

For an authentic experience, there is no match for a vintage RGBA monitor like an Amiga 1080 or Commodore 1084. They are outstanding retro monitors anyway, because in addition to working with an Amiga, they can also work with a Commodore 64, any other computer that outputs composite like an Apple II or Atari 800, and any system uses digital TTL RGB, like a Commodore 128, a Tandy 1000, or PC CGA.

The trouble is, there was a finite supply of those monitors produced, they are dying, and while replacements for some parts are available, if the tube or the yoke dies, your options are limited. Last year, one retro YouTuber set out to make a video extolling the virtues of his 1084, and the monitor suffered a catastrophic failure during the video, turning the video into a eulogy.

And while this specific model of Dell monitor works well, it’s far from the only one. And if you want a more modern display for your Amiga, ST, or IIgs, nothing says you have to rush out and buy one of these. The way this monitor was discovered was from someone having one on hand and trying it out. So there’s nothing wrong with getting a 23 to 15 pin adapter and trying out any random LCD monitor you have laying around. If it doesn’t work, you’ll just get a message saying the signal is out of range. You may find it works, but not especially well. Or you may find the next hidden gem.

Works on Amiga 500 and other Amigas without a scan doubler at 15 KHz, as long as you get Rev A00. Check any listing you see online to make sure it’s an A00. With a suitable cable it also works with an Atari ST or Apple IIgs.

A lot of similar VGA only monitors from the early 2010s will go to 15 KHz, but the E1912HF rev A00 gives a better display than most of them. It can even display interlaced modes and they look good.

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