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The average cost to replace a thermostat in a home is $140 to $350, including the unit and professional installation. Thermostat prices range from $15 to $250, depending on the type, brand, and features. Nest thermostat installation costs $100 to $200 for labor if the unit is provided.
DIY installation is possible is you have basic electrical knowledge. Otherwise, electricians charge $40 to $100 per hour for a home thermostat replacement, which takes 30 minutes to 3 hours on average.
An improper DIY installation runs the risk of blowing out the new thermostat, HVAC unit, or circuit breaker, or suffering an electric shock. Get free quotes from thermostat installers near you, or compare prices and types of units below.
Thermostat prices range from $15 for a basic mechanical unit, up to $320 for a smart self-learning unit that saves energy. Costs depend on the type, brand, and amount of features included. Professional installation adds $80 to $200 to your total cost.
The average cost of installing a smart thermostat is $225 to $400, depending on the brand, model, features, and if the wiring needs updating. Without installation, the cost of a smart thermostat unit ranges from $100 to $250.
Smart thermostats like Nest automatically learn your preferences over time and optimize the energy used to save money. Plus, you can connect to the thermostat remotely over Wi-Fi to adjust temperatures or program a heating and cooling schedule.
A Wi-Fi thermostat costs $70 to $200 for the unit and between $100 to $200 for professional installation. A Wi-Fi or Bluetooth-controlled thermostat allows for remote access, but doesn"t learn like a smart unit over time. Popular brands include Lennox, iComfort, and Honeywell.
The average cost to install a programmable is $200 to $300, depending on the type and features. A digital programmable thermostat costs $80 to $140 for the unit only. The more expensive ones may include a touchscreen, vacation override, keyboard lock, and programmable scheduling.
The average electronic thermostat costs $20 to $50 for just the unit, with installation labor adding $80 to $150 to that amount. These use an electronic temperature sensor to open or break the electric circuit to the heating or cooling system.
A manual thermostat costs $15 to $40, and the labor cost to install ranges from $65 to $150 unless you DIY. Mechanical or manual units are being phased out since some contain small levels of mercury and have minimal features. About 80% of the mechanical thermostats are heat-only types.
Thermostat installation costs depend on the cost of the unit, labor, running new thermostat wire, replacing the housing, moving a thermostat, installing a central hub, additional remotes, or hooking it up to a multi-zone system.
Replacing a thermostat with a similar unit is quick and easy as the wiring is the same, but if you’re replacing an old analog unit with a smart unit, additional costs for working with drywall or adding new wiring may apply.
The average labor cost for a thermostat replacement is $80 to $200, depending on the amount of time the install takes and if it"s a basic or smart thermostat. HVAC service costs $50 to $150 per hour to install a new thermostat, which takes 30 minutes to 3 hours on average.
Contractors may offer discounts for installing multiple thermostats at once, such as if you have a multi-zone HVAC system with electronic dampers or baffles. Multi-zoned systems save on enery costs and have remote sensors to set the temperature in each zone the HVAC system controls.
The average cost to run a new thermostat C-wire is $90 to $135, depending on the access points and placement of existing wire. Installing a C-wire is required in older homes when upgrading to a thermostat that uses continuous power to run the display and Wi-Fi connection.
Repair, replacement, and connection of existing thermostat wiring costs $60 to $200 for complex jobs over a longer distance. Some furnaces must be wired to the thermostat while others have sensors added.
The average cost to move a thermostat is $135 to $450, depending on the distance. Drywall repair costs $75 to $150 to patch the old hole and cut a new one, while wiring installation runs $6 to $10 per foot.
Moving a thermostat to a temperature-stable area saves on energy bills since the HVAC won’t be triggered to start unnecessarily. Move the unit out of the sun, away from drafts, electronics, or dead air space. HVAC professionals recommend moving it near a return-air duct to measure the temperature accurately.
Smart hubs or remote systems cost $70 to $230 on average and can control temperature, lighting, security, and appliances all from one app. Remote hubs for thermostats require a C-wire (common wire) to give continuous power.
Prices for buying a new thermostat also vary by brand and the unit"s features. Most popular thermostats can be purchased from local home improvement stores, or online via Amazon. Here are the costs of top-rated thermostats by type.
The average Nest thermostat installation costs $100 to $200 for labor-only if you provide the thermostat unit. Installation takes 30 to 60 minutes, depending on if you’re also setting up the Nest hub.
The average Hive thermostat installation costs $100 to $200 for labor-only if you provide the thermostat unit. Installation takes less than 90 minutes, depending on if you’re also setting up the Hive hub. Hive"s smart thermostat comes with a one-year warranty and is Energy Star certified. Watch their video guide for DIY installation.
In some homes, the AC and furnace thermostats are installed seperate. The average cost to replace a furnace thermostat is $190 to $480, while replacing an AC thermostat runs $120 to $200. These individual systems apply to homes that have an alternative heating source, or only need to cool certain rooms.
A wall or floor heater thermostat replacement costs $230 to $485 on average , depending on the type and voltage. Each manufacturer typically has a list of compatible replacements and most work off low-voltage while others are plug-in.
The average refrigerator thermostat replacement costs $100 to $250 to replace. A refrigerator thermostat costs $10 to $40 for just the part. Installing a digital thermostat is preferable since it can keep the desired temperature accurate and consistent.
The thermostat needs to be replaced if there is no click when you turn it from the lowest to the highest setting or if a multimeter shows it has no continuous voltage, current, and resistance.
A hot water heater thermostat replacement costs $150 to $350 on average, depending on if it"s gas or electric and whether the heating element is replaced. Most water heaters have two thermostats and two elements that are replaced at the same time. Many technicians recommend replacing it with a programmable wireless option.
Electric – Replacing an electric water heater thermostat is an easy DIY job if you"re comfortable working with electrical wiring and are sure to turn off power to the unit.
The average cost of a new thermostat for a boiler is $279 to $479 for a complete replacement. Prices range from $159 to $279 for the unit, and $120 to $200 for the installation labor.
The average cost to replace an oven thermostat is $80 to $240. An oven thermostat has a sensor bulb and capillary tube in a mounting bracket within the control panel, and the entire thing will be replaced.
Replacing a dryer thermostat costs $150 to $300 on average, while purchasing the parts to make the repairs yourself runs $40 or less. Replacing the electronic control board, which ties to the thermostat costs $100 to $200 more. Compare this to buying a new dryer for $300 to $1,200.
If there is no heat at all or it overheats quickly and shuts off, replace the thermostat. Otherwise, if the clothes are taking ages to dry, check if your lint duct is clogged.
Upgrading to a digital, programmable, or smart thermostat with proper settings can save $180 per year on your energy bills. Using a ceiling fan for air conditioning saves $42 per season, and $5 during winter when operated in reverse.
Also, changing the house temperature by 7 to 10 degrees while sleeping saves up to 10% on your heating and cooling costs, or about $106 per year. Check the Energy Star site for possible rebates in your area when you install or upgrade your thermostat.
Energy providers in some cites offer a $25 rebate for each smart thermostat you purchase and install, and up to an $85 incentive to enroll in a voluntary power management program. The program briefly adjusts your temperature setting during peak energy demand to save money.
Smart thermostats save up to 15% on your energy bill when programmed correctly. Smart thermostats learn your temperature adjustment habits and save $180 per year by optimizing the heating and cooling cycles.
Considerations when replacing a thermostat include its disposal method, the location of the new thermostat, scheduling the replacement work, the contractor’s experience, and the amount of expected drywall damage.
Hazardous waste – Thermostats older than 2002 might contain mercury, and disposal methods must follow state laws. If you see an ampoule of silver mercury, bring it to a hazardous waste facility, HVAC supplier, or ask your contractor.
Location – Install the thermostat away from direct sunlight, heat sources, drafts, warm appliances or devices, or dead air space (behind doors or furniture), so it can accurately assess the temperature.
Renting – If a landlord pays the energy bills, ask if they will cover the installation cost. However, this means you cannot take the thermostat with you when you move.
The new thermostat must be compatible with the power requirements of the existing system. Most HVAC systems are called low-voltage systems, and they use 24V power—typically AC units, split units, boilers, furnaces, electric baseboards, and heat pumps.
Installing a thermostat to a line voltage circuit without using an adapter or rewiring can break the thermostat and even cause a fire. All thermostats turn the heating and cooling system on or off through either:
You should replace your thermostat every time you replace your central air conditioner, heater, or HVAC system. Thermostats typically last 10 years before their performance starts to decline or they stop working.
Using a multimeter, check if your electrical connections are working or if it’s the thermostat that’s broken. It measures voltage, current, and resistance.
A home thermostat lasts 10 years on average. The life expectancy depends on proper maintenance like dusting the coils, adjusting the anticipator, and making sure the thermostat is level. After a decade, the thermostat’s performance often begins to decline.
Replacing a thermostat takes 30 minutes to 3 hours on average, depending on the type, accessories, and if any repairs are needed. Smart thermostats take the longest to install and require rewiring and Wi-Fi setup.
Most brands and home improvement stores have instructions and instructional videos for how to install or replace a thermostat. Check out Honeywell’s or Lowe’s how-to videos.
Disconnect wiring – Disconnect wires and take care not to let connecting wires slip back into the wall by taping them or wrapping them around a pencil. Remove old thermostat.
If the thermostat has a ground wire labeled G or C, connect it to the circuit ground wire, which is usually black but sometimes green (which could alternatively be for the blower fan).
According to a study by the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL), the mean indoor temperatures homeowners set their thermostats to for the most comfort are:
When replacing an older two-wire manual thermostat, a DIY replacement is possible once the power to the house is turned off. Installing more complex systems such as a smart, digital, or Wi-Fi unit can have 10 to 12 wires to connect and requires a professional.
An improper installation runs the risk of blowing out the new thermostat or HVAC unit or suffering an electric shock. When hiring a professional, be sure to:
It’s an “Oh no!” moment when you approach your home’s thermostat and see its screen is blank. Is it serious? Does it mean your furnace, heat pump, or air conditioning is broken? Not necessarily. In fact, most of the time, it’s something minor and can be easily fixed.
If your thermostat wall does not have a c-wire, or common wire, your thermostat most likely is not hooked up to your HVAC system for its power and needs batteries. When your screen is blank, it could indicate you need to replace the batteries. It that is the case, you typically need AA alkaline or 3-volt lithium batteries, but see what type is currently powering the thermostat and simply replace them. Most thermostats display a low-battery symbol when the juice is running low.
On the other hand, if your thermostat is hardwired to your HVAC system for power, it could be a temporary blank screen if the thermostat is in the middle of recharging. Wait a short time and see if the display returns. If it does not, read on.
Sometimes the wires hooked up to your thermostat are responsible for its lack of power. If they were not firmly attached originally or the thermostat is in a high-traffic room, the vibrations from people walking by can sometimes affect the wires. Our technicians have also seen wires chewed by rodents in attics affect the wiring. Since wiring deals directly with electricity, we recommend you calling us to diagnose and repair the issue for you. When it comes to electricity, it’s better to be safe than sorry.
A quick fix to restore your thermostat’s power is a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse, depending what you have in your home. Sometimes a surge can cause this issue. If you check your electrical box and a circuit breaker is tripped, just flip it back. If you have fuses, replace the fuse. Once this is done, check your thermostat. If you have power again, you are set; but if the breaker trips again or the replacement fuse blows, you have a more involved HVAC problem. You need to get a professional involved.
HVAC systems have built-in safety switches in the case of an unsafe situation. In the event a safety switch on one of your units is tripped, the transformer supplying voltage to your unit (and possibly your thermostat) will stop power. If this is a furnace, you need to call in a professional for a diagnosis and repair. If it’s your heat pump or air conditioner, check its condensate pan to see if it’s full. As a safety precaution, this will trip the safety switch. Empty the pan and see if power is restored to your unit and thermostat. If not, you need a professional.
Every once in a while, our technicians come across this issue. Some thermostats are more sensitive to this issue than others, but it is something worth checking. If your furnace door is not closed tightly, your thermostat will turn off. Simply closing the door securely should restore power if this is the cause.
Though thermostats can last 10 to 20 years, they do wear out. Sometimes it is just time to replace it. If your thermostat is older, unfortunately this may be the problem. If it is, be sure to have a professional install the new one, since the newer ones can be complicated, and you want to be sure you will not have issues with it in the future.
At Trouth Air Conditioning and Sheet Metal here in Sulphur, Louisiana, we frequently field phone calls regarding thermostat issues. If your thermostat has a blank display, try these ideas to see if you can restore its power. But if they are not solving your problem, or if you are hesitant about attempting these on your own, please call us at 337-527-8683. We would be happy to help.
For any homeowner, a blank thermostat screen can be an alarming sign, especially in the hottest part of the summer or in the dead of winter. Is it just a case of needing to replace the batteries? It is an issue that is going to be very expensive to repair? Is there any faulty wiring? Maybe the entire HVAC system has broken down, and it needs to be replaced!
Don’t panic just yet. If the screen on your thermostat is blank, there might be a straightforward solution to the problem. The following are some of the common causes for a blank thermostat screen, and how to fix it.
Whenever your heating and cooling isn’t meeting your expectations is when you tend to take a look at it and fiddle around with it. A thermostat, like all other working parts, is vulnerable to having issues. Have you ever wondered what causes the thermostat to go blank and then turn back on? That is an indication that the thermostat has a part that isn’t working correctly.
The thermostat is one of the most critical components of all HVAC and AC units. It senses what the temperature is and helps to keep it regulated at the specified level. A thermostat works similar to a switch. Usually, they are heated activated. The temperature sensor is one component of the thermostat. It triggers the switch to close or open, by interjecting or completing an electrical circuit that operates the cooling and heating systems of a house.
Your thermostat is going blank and then coming back on; that is a classic sign of short cycling. Usually, this problem originates within the heating system. The cycle on an air conditioner, on average, lasts for about 20 minutes. Sometimes, there is an increase in the number of cycles. The problem is referred to as “short cycling.” This term refers to situations where the air conditioner turns off and on in small bursts. When that happens, the home does not adequately cool down or heat up. You can see an indication of short cycling with your own yes when your thermostat goes black and then repeatedly comes back on in quick succession.
An AC thermostat has a temperature sensor that measures the surrounding temperature. The thermostat uses the reading to send “off” and “on” signals to the unit’s compressor. The thermostat should ideally not be installed close to a window that gets lots of sunlight. It should also not be installed close to a supply air vent. The thermostat will be confused by these places about what the actual temperature is inside your house.
The actual thermostat might have a fault, and that could be the cause of the short cycling. It might be something basic like a loose wire, or it could be something more serious, which might need to be replaced. A local HVAC technician can validate this for you. Although it isn’t a significant issue to have a faulty thermostat if you replace it will solve the problem of the thermostat repeatedly switching off and on.
These leaks occur due to wear and tear on the coils and corrosion. If there is also a refrigerant leak in your AC, it means that the unit might have a low Freon level. The refrigerant or coolant is essential for absorbing heat in the air and then cooling it down. So anytime it is low, the compressor’s pressure level can become uneven, which can cause it to turn off and on intermittently. This, in turn, can cause the thermostat to go off and on repeatedly. If it is left unattended, this problem might seriously damage the unit. If you notice any signs that there is a refrigerant leak, make sure that you address the problem as soon as possible.
The AC might have a clogged or dirty air filter, which causes airflow restrictions. Whenever the flow of air is restricted, it freezes the evaporator coil ad that causes the AC unit to turn off and on. As previously mentioned, that can cause your thermostat to go black and then turn on again. It is essential to clean your air filters and replace them, if necessary, once a month, at least. If you are in an area where dusty is in the air continuously and you run your AC regularly all summer, then you might need to replace the filters more often.
Not every AC unit thermostat needs batteries. However, some of them do. When the batteries are weak, it may cause the screen on a thermostat to go blank and turn on again. First, you need to determine if this is the situation with your thermostat. If so, take the front panel off of the thermostat and then add new fully charged batteries to replace the old ones. This is a task that you can easily do yourself.
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The Honeywell RTH5160 Digital Non-Programmable Thermostat offers intuitive operation with basic button functionality. This non-programmable thermostat"s straightforward backlit display provides a seamless approach to navigating in home heating and cooling functions. Precision Temperature Control and Auto Change capabilities will provide owners an easily accessible means of pinpointing their preferred heating/cooling settings. This non-programmable thermostat includes a Change Reminder feature that will alert owners whenever a new pair of batteries is required. Temperature preferences will remain intact in the event of a power outage. This alleviates owners from the hassle of reentering their selected setting. Installation is also seamless as this non-programmable thermostat includes: UWP mounting system, mounting hardware and a quick install guide.
No more guessing at little lines in the dark. The RTH5160 Simple Display Non-Programmable Thermostat has all the features you love - straightforward readings, single-degree control, basic functions - with a backlit, easy-to-read display that shows both your temperature and set point simultaneously.
This non-programmable thermostat is all about change. Featuring auto-change from heat to cool and a change reminder alert for the 2 AA batteries (not included), you can be confident your comfort levels stay intact - even during a power outage, thanks to memory storage.
Trade just a little of your time for a DIY install project. The UWP mounting system, included mounting hardware and quick install guide can have your digital thermostat up and running quickly. Simple steps and basic wiring to your home"s comfort in your control.
Lots of Honeywell programmable and wifi-enabled thermostats use batteries and will give you a low-battery warning when they"re running low. Here"s how to change batteries in you…
TB6575A, TB6575B, and TB8575A family of digital fan-coil thermostats provide line/low voltage on/off control for various fan-coil units in residential and commercial applications. Great for use in hotels, condos, and classrooms. SuitePRO- 120/240-volt, 3-speed fan coil thermostats with 2- or 4-pipe manual/auto heat/cool changeover. Simple, intuitive user interface and ease of installation. Attractive modern styling, ideal for hotels and condos. Digital display of ambient temperature, set point, mode icons when cooling or heating relays operate, when energy savings mode is active, and fan status. Four buttons allow manual control of system operation, fan speed, and temperature set point adjustment. VersaSpeed fan ramp algorithm automatically adjusts low, medium, high fan speed. Optional freeze protection feature that turns on heat if necessary. Activity-sensing algorithm sets back thermostat to economy mode. Auto fan rest option sets back fan to auto mode. Energy savings mode-external energy savings input from dry contact such as time switch, occupancy sensor, or hotel key-card overrides comfort set point with selectable setback heating or cooling set points. Energy savings input configurable as a normally open or normally closed dry contact. Proportional plus integral (P+I) control algorithm for precision temperature regulation. Selectable C or F. Adjustable deadband in auto changeover mode for heat and cool control. Adjustable maximum heating and minimum cooling set point limits. Installer setup mode allows changes of operating parameters. EEPROM permanently retains user settings, including set points, during power loss (no batteries required). Capability to display temperature sensor failure for easier troubleshooting. Optional remote temperature sensor and remote pipe sensor.
POST a QUESTION or COMMENT about Room Thermostats for Air Conditioners & Heating Systems or heat pumps: thermostat operation, wiring, adjustment & repair procedures
Heating & Cooling Thermostats, how to install, set, troubleshoot & repair home page: this article series explains selection, installation, use, setting, and adjustment of heating or cooling system room thermostats or "wall thermostats".
Here in the article links found at the ARTICLE INDEX the bottom of this article and at the top of this article we provide a complete guide to buying, installing, using, adjusting, & repairing thermostats for heating or air conditioning or heat pump systems.
This article series answers most questions about central heating system troubleshooting, inspection, diagnosis, and repairs. Our page top photograph illustrates an antique room thermostat still in use at the Franklin Delano Roosevelt FDR Estate in Hyde Park, NY.
In this photograph we illustrate a traditional Honeywell round bimetallic-spring type room thermostat that was used in thousands if not millions of homes in North America & other countries.
The round Honeywell® wall thermostat shown in the photo above has been locked in a plastic enclosure to prevent people from changing its set temperature.
At HEAT ANTICIPATOR ADJUSTMENT we describe how an internal adjustment can be made to this thermostat to improve its operation in some types of heating systems.
This was probably the first clock-controlled automatic set-back residential wall thermostat produced in the U.S. The top of the thermostat is hinged to permit acces to its interior for wiring.
General Electric manufactured this Thermal Control thermostat around 1933. The thermostat came equipped with a Telechron synchronous motor that powered the clock attached to the thermostat.
The clock allowed the furnace to turn on and off at a certain time, and the thermostat has two wheels on the right and the left, which allowed the home owner to set a desired temperature during the day and during the evening. - retrieved 2017/12/31,
Below is a later clock-thermostat more-widely sold in the U.S, the Honeywell Chronotherm wall thermostat, another clock-operated automatic day-night room thermostat.
produced by the Minneapolis-Honeywell Regulator Company, Minneapolis 8, Minnesota, (1950) reproduced from a Dodge building products catalog. Clicking on the first page in that PDF file should return to this web article.
The Chronotherm is an electric clock thermostat which automatically matches the room temperature to your living schedule. All day long it controls the burner to maintain the exact temperature you want.
Two other Honeywell thermostats sold in 1950 were the Time-O-Stat for semi-automatic day-night temperature control, and the Acratherm thermostat. We illustrate both of these below.
Room thermostats for air conditioning work and are set the same as when these devices are used for controlling heating systems. We provide lots of detail about how these devices work -
Moving the thermostat adjustment lever (located at the top, side, or bottom of the thermostat depending on the model) will change the set temperature up or down, causing the heating or air conditioning system to turn on or off as needed.
Digital room thermostats are illustrated in our two photographs shown here. A modern digital thermostat uses an LCD type display to show the current room temperature along with other information.
Most digital room thermostats are "programmable" - you can set the thermostat to set back the room temperature at night (in heating mode, for example) and many models allow different time and temperature settings both throughout the day and for individual days of the week as well.
Our digital thermostat shown at left indicates the time (5:43 PM) in the left side of the display and the current temperature (53 °F) in the right side of the display.
With the thermostat"s plastic cover "shut" it"s operation is very simple, just showing up and down arrows that temporarily call for a higher or lower room "set" or "desired" temperature.
The Honeywell RTH2300 / RTH221 series room thermostats are easy to program, permit different weekday and weekend programs, and include a "hold" button that is invaluable for keeping the thermostat at a fixed setting without losing the whole program.
Honeywell displays a "Rated Overall Best Brand" sticker on the packaging indicating that this model received a "Best" rating by an independent Frost & Sullivan study.
We describe the operation of a typical digital room thermostatfor heating or air conditioning later in this article at DIGITAL ROOM THERMOSTAT OPERATION
A simpler programmable Honeywell® digital room thermostat is show in our photo at left. This is a Honeywell CT2700 Electronic Round Programmable Thermostat.
Watch out: we installed and tested two of these thermostats over several years of use. While the device is simple, un intimidating, and easy to program, the lack of a "hold" feature was annoying and required more fooling around; we also would have liked an additional daytime automatic setback period that this device doesn"t offer.
But the worst discovery was that our oil burner was short cycling, sometimes turning on for just a few seconds - a problem that we finally traced to a defect in one of these thermostats. (The problem ceased when we swapped in our preferred thermostat shown above). We also found the flat cable wiring of this thermostat very fragile - eventually the display cable simply detached itself from its contacts.
The Nest™ Learning Thermostat - home automation features include buiding occupancy monitoring & communicating with the Nest Protect Carbon Monoxide & Smoke Detector
"The Nest Learning Thermostat" is an electronic device that can control room temperatures and possibly other components connected to or installed as part of a home automation system. We have installed three of these in our test building and will report further on ease of installation, programming, and use as well as using and adjusting the Nest thermostat remotely from your cellphone, computer, or tablet.
Several manufacturers provide thermostatically-controlled radiator valves (Armstrong, Danfoss, Hoffman Specialty, Jacobus (Maid"O"Mist) and others).
Automatic radiator/baseboard valves provide thermostatic controls that can be installed on individual hot water radiators, steam radiators, or heating baseboards. The automatic radiator or baseboard valve will automagically open or close to attempt to control room temperature to the desired level.
For details see RADIATOR VALVES & HEAT CONTROLS This article describes these automatic or thermostatically controlled radiator valves (such as the Armstrong RV-4) that will allow you to set the desired room temperature.
Remote control thermostats such as the unit shown at left are usually used with air conditioning or heating split systems using an outside compressor/condenser unit and one or more indoor wall-mounted cooling or heating units..
Have a hand held remote for TCL air-conditioner (split model TAC-30CHS/G). when we set temperature, conditioner blinks what you want it to be, then it goes to inside temperature (suppose to do this) but then it quickly jumps to 34 degrees & switches off. Guessing it is thermostat? Anne Webber 9/2/11
be sure that the wall mounted thermostat (if there is a separate one) is properly located where it can see or communicate with the indoor wall mounted blower assembly.
If those steps don"t fix the problem and you don"t see more help in the installation and use manual, it"s time to ask for an HVACR service call as there could be a bad controller, thermostat, or control board.
In the article above and at Related Links (near page top) we describe the installation and use of most types of room thermostats used for heating, cooling, even dehumidification in buildings. But there are hundreds of models and features available.
Search InspectApedia for your thermostat brand to find wiring instructions, or see the thermostat guides at our page end Recommended Articles or in the ARTICLE INDEX.
The largest selection of room thermostats we find anywhere is at Grainger who has over 250 models in their online catalog. http://www.grainger.com - but beware not every thermostat description necessarily names all features.
Bimetallic Element thermostats use a bimetallic spring consisting of strips of two different metals fused together, typically into a coil shape. As room air temperature causes the two metals to expand or contract at different rates, the effect is that the spring coils up or un-coils, moving a switch that turns heating or cooling or or off.
Bellows Element thermostats are filled with a volatile liquid that vaporizes at temperatures typically found indoors. As the liquid vaporizes pressure inside the bellows expands, translating temperature change into the movement of a contact to turn heating or cooling on or off in response to building temperature.
Thermistor-type thermostats use a tiny solid-state electronic component, a type of resistor whose electrical resistance changes in response to temperature. By combining the thermistor with appropriate additional circuits and controls the thermostat uses the change in resistance to control the switching of the thermostat"s control of cooling or heating on or off in response to room temperature.
For details: at TEMPERATURE RESPONSE of ROOM THERMOSTATS we give a detailed description of how room thermostats sense & respond to room temperature, and
and THERMOSTAT SWITCHES, INTERNAL we explain methods used to fine-tune thermostat operation in response to temperature swings, thus adjusting the burner on-cycle or fan operation if the heating system uses a fan.
Room thermostats used to control steam heat may vary from their cousins illustrated above, or not - depending on just what the thermostat is controlling. In a residential application a standard room thermostat works fine to turn on or off the steam boiler.
But in larger buildings you may find that the room thermostat for steam heat is controlling a valve or relay that admits steam to radiators in one room or in just one section of a building.
The lower dial-scale is the set-temperature adjustment on this thermostat. The thermostat controls a steam radiator valve that in turn admits or shuts off heat into the space managed by this device.
Office environment with a HONEYWELL RTH2300 thermostat . . . in Cool mode Fan On and set to 75F Hold . . . cooling does not click on until 77F reached on display temp . . . and does not click off until 73F reached on display temp . . . I would think cooling should click on when above 75F . . . ie at 76F . . . and click off when below 75F . . . ie at 74F . . . is this operating within standard tolerance? . . .
Some programmable digital room thermostats include an internal battery that will allow the device to remember the program that you have set even if there has been a power outage. This topic has been moved to its own article at THERMOSTAT BACKUP BATTERIES - for temporary or full time operation.
A new Braeburn MegaSwitch like yours sells new for under $15.00 U.S. - at your local heating supplier or even from online vendors, so it makes sense to try having the thermostat replaced. It"s a job that most handymen/women can do quickly and easily.
Most thermostat covers will pop off - start by prying gently at the bottom or top, but some require pressing in on top or sides to depress the edge of the cover from a latch, and
watch out: don"t try popping off the thermostat cover before inspecting all of its edges for one or more small screws that may be holding the cover in place.
I have a semi-automatic chromotherm Honeywell thermostat that came with our 1956 house, which we bought it in the 1970"s. I was trying to find out if the thermostat has a “C” wire, but I cannot see how to take off the cover of the thermostat to check the wiring. Can you give me very specific instructions on how to take off the cover? Most instructions just tell you to pop it off and/or find some screws to unscrew. Thanks.
My father in-law took off my thermostat and didn"t label the wires as he took them off nor does he remember which wire goes where so I have a Honeywell ct87n non programmable thermostat the old round heat and cooling kind and 4 wires (red, blue, white, and green) coming out of my wall and I don"t know what wire goes where
it"s possible that your thermostat is taking power from the circuit that would be left open or off if a blower door safety switch is not securely made when you put the blower door back on. Check that first.
I was changing the filter on my trane air handler and when I put the blower door back on the thermostat was blank. The thermostat doesn"t require batteriea and I made sure the circuit breaker is on. What else could it be? Thanks
Office environment with a HONEYWELL RTH2300 thermostat . . . in Cool mode Fan On and set to 75F Hold . . . cooling does not click on until 77F reached on display temp . . . and does not click off until 73F reached on display temp . . . I would think cooling should click on when above 75F . . . ie at 76F . . . and click off when below 75F . . . ie at 74F . . . is this operating within standard tolerance? . . . is the thermostat defective? . . . is there any means to rectify to hold at 75F?
SECOND: check that the thermostat is not being confused by external conditions such as location on a wall that exposes the thermostat to hotter or cooler temperatures than the actual room temp. A subtle example can be a convection current running through an uninsulated interior wall cavity that is blowing cool air into the thermostat from its back-side through the wiring opening in the wall.
This is probably not your problem since if the thermostat were being thrown off by sunlight, wall mounting location, or drafts, I"d expect its room temperature to reflect that influence. You"d see instead a gap between the room temperature shown by the thermostat"s indicator and an independent measurement of room temperature say in the middle of the room.
A programmed setting can also confuse us about how the thermostat should be responding if a thermostat is running under a program whose settings are not what we thought.
But if you"ve got the thermostat in HOLD mode then it ought to respond to temperature changes around the hold temperature setting. Double check that you see the word "HOLD" in the display.
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[3] Honeywell Controls, the company wants you to use their contact form at this web page: http://www51.honeywell.com/honeywell/contact-support/contact-us.html
[3a] Honeywell Tradeline T87T Universal Thermostat Installation Instructions for the Trained Service Technician", Honeywell International Inc. Honeywell Limited—Honeywell Limitée
[6] "Automatic Oil Burner Controls - Thermostats", Domestic and Commercial Oil Burners, 3rd Ed., Charles H. Burkhardt, McGraw Hill, 1969 (and later editions), ASIN B0000EG4Y8
[21] Trane TCONT800 Series Touch Screen Programmable Comfort Control Ownes Guide, American Standard, Inc., Troup Highway, Tyler TX 75711, January 2005, Telephone: Customer Service: 1-877-3381, website: www.trane.com
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OK, updated device type, cleared cache, works the same. Here is what I see going on after playing with some system setup functions on the thermostat. The parse returned value is the “function 0600 - Heat Temperature Range Stop” and “function 610 - Cool Temperature Range Stop” as user configured on the thermostat:
8:14:16 PM: debug Parse returned [[value:74.0, unit:F, name:temperature, isStateChange:true, displayed:true, linkText:Thermostat, descriptionText:Thermostat temperature is 74.0°F]]
In addition, after reading other threads in this community, it appears that most thermostats in this class (CT100, Honeywell ZW) only support whole numbers if the unit doesn’t display them. There are a couple of the very newest thermostats coming out that will support decimals.