sainsmart 2.8 tft lcd adapter raspberry pi brands

SainSmart 2.8" TFT LCD Display is a LCD touch screen module. It has 40pins interface and SD card and Flash reader design. It is a powerful and mutilfunctional module for your project.The Screen include a controllerILI9325, it"s a support 8/16bit data interface , easy to drive by many MCU like arduino families,STM32 ,AVR and 8051. It is designed with a touch controller in it . The touch IC isXPT2046, and touch interface is included in the 40 pins breakout. It is the version of product only with touch screen and touch controller.

Voltage type: 5v or 3v voltage input voltage,input is selectable. Because TFT can only work under 3.3 V voltage, so when the input voltage VIN is 5V, need through the 3.3 V voltage regulator IC step down to 3.3V , when the input voltage of 3.3 V, you need to use the zero resistance make J2 short , is equivalent to not through the voltage regulator IC for module and power supply directly.(Click here)

SainSmart 2.8" TFT LCD Display is a LCD touch screen module. It has 40pins interface and SD card and Flash reader design. It is a powerful and mutilfunctional module for your project.The Screen include a controllerILI9325, it"s a support 8/16bit data interface , easy to drive by many MCU like arduino families,STM32 ,AVR and 8051. It is designed with a touch controller in it . The touch IC isXPT2046, and touch interface is included in the 40 pins breakout. It is the version of product only with touch screen and touch controller.

Voltage type: 5v or 3v voltage input voltage,input is selectable. Because TFT can only work under 3.3 V voltage, so when the input voltage VIN is 5V, need through the 3.3 V voltage regulator IC step down to 3.3V , when the input voltage of 3.3 V, you need to use the zero resistance make J2 short , is equivalent to not through the voltage regulator IC for module and power supply directly.(Click here)

The 3.2 inch TFT LCD module is a special design for Raspberry Pi for portable application. It features a 3.2�display with 320x240 16bit color pixels and resistive touch screen. The LCD is well mated with Pi board and interface with Pi via the high speed SPI port, and support console, X windows, displaying images or video etc. It also provides 4 press buttons for user defined functions.

Our Raspberry Pi team have therefore developed a lot of accessories for Pi, if you need it, please search from our store. All of our products you purchased from our store will be followed by our technical team and services.

this is the latest version of the first and original TFT touch panel display board designed specifically for the Raspberry Pi. This hardware version is compatible for all 40-way GPIO Pi"s, so that is the A+, the B+ and the latest Pi 2B and uses the established HY28B display board which features a resolution of 320 x 240 at 65k colours. As usual the display utilises the excellent fbtft drivers authored by notro, only now those drivers are included in the very latest raspbian image, although not currently included in the image available from the foundations download page. I expect this to change in the very near future so that the rpi-update step is no longer required.

Screen and TP use hardware SPI ( SLCK, MOSI, MISO, CE0 & CE1 ) plus 3 additional GPIO lines ( GPIO17, GPIO18 & GPIO25 ), keeping the other GPIO lines free for other uses - the pcb has a "breakout" GPIO port to connect too.

It is recommended to use the latest raspbian image , at the time of posting is dated 2015-02-16, to configure using an SSH session remotely, with no TV/Monitor connected to the HDMI port, and to connect the 2.8" Display board right from the start prior to connecting power to the Pi.

When the Pi reboots the screen will go from white to black - the display has been successfully initialised and boot-up text will appear on the display.

Note all of the instructions in this post assume you wish to use the display/touch panel in landscape mode, with the hdmi connector at the top as you look at the pi/shield.

You should be able to connect it OK. Just be careful to check the voltages. The Raspberry Pi has 3.3 V I/O pins. How hard it is, is in the eye of the beholder :)

The LCD panel also supports parallel mode, which is what you would need to use for the highest speed updates, but the Raspberry Pi doesn"t have enough pins for that, so you can probably forget about playing video on there.

EDIT: It appears that although the SSD1289 chip supports 3 and 4 pin serial modes, they are not brought out to the connector. It should be possible to connect it as shown in

The RPi LCD can be driven in two ways: Method 1. install driver to your Raspbian OS. Method 2. use the Ready-to-use image file of which LCD driver was pre-installed.

2) Connect the TF card to the PC, open the Win32DiskImager software, select the system image downloaded in step 1 and click‘Write’ to write the system image. ( How to write an image to a micro SD card for your Pi? See RPi Image Installation Guides for more details)

3) Connect the TF card to the Raspberry Pi, start the Raspberry Pi. The LCD will display after booting up, and then log in to the Raspberry Pi terminal,(You may need to connect a keyboard and HDMI LCD to Pi for driver installing, or log in remotely with SSH)

1. Executing apt-get upgrade will cause the LCD to fail to work properly. In this case, you need to edit the config.txt file in the SD card and delete this sentence: dtoverlay=ads7846.

This LCD can be calibrated through the xinput-calibrator program. Note: The Raspberry Pi must be connected to the network, or else the program won"t be successfully installed.

I was torn in deciding how many stars to give this. For starters, I must mention that I own 5 of these things -- 3 of the Mega2560R3 kits and 2 of the Due kits. This review is the collective findings of both varieties.I"m going to start with a key problem and warning that everyone who has bought or is thinking of buying these things should read:WARNING: The configuration jumpers on ALL five of the units I"ve received were jumpered incorrectly from the factory. The Mega2560R3 boards had both the 5v and 3.3v selection jumpers soldered, meaning if you plug it in as-is, you"ll short out the two power supplies. Their pictures of the board all show only the 3.3v jumpers selected, which is correct, but the three Mega boards I received, the LCD shield boards were jumpered wrong with both voltages selected. The two Due boards were also jumpered wrong. However, they didn"t have both jumper sets applied, they only had the 5v jumpers applied. Even if the LCD could stand 5v (and would be OK since all of its I/O pins are outputs from the processor), jumping it wrong would also mean powering the touchscreen chip from 5v causing the inputs to the Due processor to see 5v, and the input pins of the SAM micro are NOT 5v tolerant.This problem is likely why some of the other reviewers mentioned processors and things getting hot. So step one, regardless of which board set you get, check your jumpers! The LCD should be configured for 3.3v and only one voltage selection jumper should be applied per option so you don"t short out both supply voltages.Of the five units I received, one LCD screen glass was cracked. It still functions, but the crack renders the touchscreen portion somewhat unusable. Another LCD screen apparently has a panel that was wired backwards (between the driver chip and the LCD panel itself). I thought at first it was defective as the screen had the appearance of the old SSAVI style cable scrambling technique with a "torn" picture. But the pre-init white screen looked OK, so I was suspicious that it was functioning, but in a weird way. After some experimenting, I found that if I swapped the sync settings around and the horizontal/vertical addressing modes around it worked, but exactly backwards from what it should -- addressing was going the wrong way and scrolling was backwards, etc... It is usable, but only if I correct for their problem in software. I didn"t exchange either one of these because the cost and hassle of doing so wouldn"t have been worth it.I was also suspicious that the one screen that was behaving backwards simply had a different LCD driver chip. But, I read the Device ID out of all of them and they all reported 9325. So they should have all functioned the same. And, for what it"s worth, the LCD driver chip at least thinks it"s a 9325.As for software and support, I don"t understand the reviews that say there"s no software or support out there, as the item description posted on Amazon even has a link to a zip file from SainSmart with the CTE UTFT libraries already preconfigured for these screens (maybe those reviews were done before that was posted?). And in any case, this is a clone of the CTE (Cold Tears Electronics) boards and there"s plenty of documentation and software for it, including schematics and even board layouts, if you Google it.One reviewer mentioned it not being a true "CTE" board because no SPI Flash chip was installed. Well, even the original CTE boards don"t come with the flash chip by default -- that"s an optional add-on (as per their "official" website). This clone certainly has the pads, just get a chip and solder it on... Though you"ll probably still want to read the font data out and store it in memory, as the latency of reading it from flash every time text is rendered would serious slow down performance. So why not just put the font you want in the main flash of the micro? Though I guess you could use the chip to store anything you want and aren"t limited to just fonts.Another thing to look out for on the board is solder splash and cold solder joints, specifically on all of the through-hole parts. Two of my boards had a solder splash on the power input connector, shorting it out had I not seen and removed it. Various through-hole connectors were marginally soldered and needed some touch-up work. So expect to do some soldering right out of the gate. And be sure to look your board over thoroughly and fix these things before using it.The processor boards (apart from a couple of soldering issues) were fairly functional and I guess a decent value for the price. But, the Mega, for example, has a old bootloader version installed. One of the first things you"ll want to do is reflash it (via the ISP port) with the current stk500v2 bootloader. Also, it didn"t have the lock bits sets, meaning you could easily accidentally overwrite the bootloader during programming and end up with a brain-dead board until you reflashed the bootloader via the ISP port... So I suggest flashing the current bootloader and setting the lock fuses first thing.I"m suspicious, though, that the ATmega2560 processor is a counterfeit chip as the efuse bits don"t seem to want to stay set. You can program them, and they seem to program OK, even verify correctly, but later on will occasionally randomly read back as 0xFF. I have only seen that happen with the efuse bits, which is primarily just brownout voltage threshold setting, so it isn"t too critical (compared to the other fuse bits), but makes me wonder about the integrity of the processor as a whole and wonder if it"s possibly a "counterfeit chip".I haven"t done as much checking of bootloader code on the Due board, or its ARM micro. It came up and talked to the bossa loader without any issues, so I haven"t had a need to analyze it to the extent I have the Mega boards. Plus, being a newer Arduino board, it"s more likely to have a new bootloader and also the different nature of the programming process on the ARM of the Due isn"t as likely to have flash overwrite issues as the Mega does.The LCD screens themselves are decent, assuming yours isn"t cracked or wired backwards, but be aware that this 9325 chip, at least the way it"s configured on this LCD panel, does NOT support hardware scrolling in the vertical direction when in landscape mode. It does do hardware scrolling, but only vertical for portrait mode (or horizontal for landscape). If your project needs hardware scrolling in the vertical direction of landscape mode (as my project needs), this LCD screen won"t do it!The touchscreen, however, I found to work quite well -- but ONLY after you"ve calibrated it. It didn"t work at all until I did the calibration. Perhaps the reviewers saying they couldn"t get touchscreen to work didn"t calibrate it? You first need to get your LCD working with their demo. Then, load their UTouch calibration program and follow the prompts on the screen for creating the calibration parameters. Then plug those parameters into the UTouch source code, et voila. I was pleasantly surprised at how well the touchscreen seemed to function for the money -- it had good response, was accuracy and seemed repeatable, and didn"t require a lot of excess pressure, etc. From some of the other reviews I"ve seen on this screen, I wasn"t sure what to expect, but was pleasantly surprised to find the touchscreen performing well (at least on the screens I received -- maybe they too have quality control issues?).The UTFT code isn"t the best of code, but is functional and works well on both the Mega and Due. I did tweak it to work a little more efficiently and fix potential memory access faults, and to add hardware scrolling support (the library itself didn"t originally support hardware scrolling at all).A better software library to use with the screen is Andy Brown"s xmemtft, available on GitHub. To use it, you"ll have to use the Gpio16 include files for the ili9325 chip and properly set the port mapping for your processor. Speaking of port mapping, the correct settings on the UTFT library (that"s linked in the item description of these boards) for this 2.8" 320x240 TFT LCD in their example code is as follows:Mega:UTFT myGLCD(CTE28,38,39,40);UTouch myTouch(6,5,4,3,2);Due:UTFT myGLCD(CTE28,25,26,27,28);UTouch myTouch(6, 5, 32, 3, 2); (note: it will support "4" in place of the "32", but only if you add a jumper on the adapter shield)So all-in-all, it"s usable, but only if you do a little work on them, don"t get a bad LCD, and don"t need vertical scroll in landscape. It definitely isn"t a kit for a novice. Don"t expect to plug it together and start using it without doing some soldering and fixing things. And if you are new to programming, you may want to get some experience on a more ready-to-use package, like an Adafruit kit or something, first.But, if you don"t mind learning a little and working through the BS and you happen to get lucky and the one you receive isn"t defective, this is a decent deal for the money, as most vendors sell just the processor board for the cost of this entire kit.So, as a cheap, knock-off clone, it"s usable, but...

The RPi LCD can be driven in two ways: Method 1. install driver to your Raspbian OS. Method 2. use the Ready-to-use image file of which LCD driver was pre-installed.

2) Connect the TF card to the PC, open the Win32DiskImager software, select the system image downloaded in step 1 and click‘Write’ to write the system image. ( How to write an image to a micro SD card for your Pi? See RPi Image Installation Guides for more details)

3) Connect the TF card to the Raspberry Pi, start the Raspberry Pi. The LCD will display after booting up, and then log in to the Raspberry Pi terminal,(You may need to connect a keyboard and HDMI LCD to Pi for driver installing, or log in remotely with SSH)

1. Executing apt-get upgrade will cause the LCD to fail to work properly. In this case, you need to edit the config.txt file in the SD card and delete this sentence: dtoverlay=ads7846.

This LCD can be calibrated through the xinput-calibrator program. Note: The Raspberry Pi must be connected to the network, or else the program won"t be successfully installed.