diy transparent lcd screen free sample

I saw a really cool video of a PC case called "Snowblind", that had a transparent LCD Screen as a side panel. I was amazed over how cool it was. The only problem was that it was really expensive. Therefore, I tried making my own! In this instructables I will go through how I made it, and how you could make your own. The best of all, since it was made from an old monitor that was thrown away, it was basically free! I just added some LED strips on the inside of the case to get better contrast on the screen. You could probably re-use the monitors backlight, but it"s safer and easier to just get some cheap LED strips.

First, remove the frame of the panel. It is fixed with clips, so just bend the frame a little and lift the frame up. Next, separate the front LCD from the backlight. For the next step, you will have to be careful. This step involves removing the anti glare film. It is glued to the panel, and therefore it"s easy to break the LCD when trying to remove it.

Then you are done modding the LCD! Now, you can hook it up to the panel and test it. Just be careful with the ribbon cables going from the LCD PCB to the panel.

The side panel of this case fits the LCD perfectly. Just line it up to the side facing the back, and to the top, and use some tape to tape it to the glass. Then, use some vinyl on the outside where the LCD is not covering the glass.

It"s really important to have lots of lights inside the case, to make it easier to see the LCD. Therefore, try to fill the case with even more LED strips.

You can now power up the computer, open the screen settings and set it up for dual screens. You might have to flip the display 180 degrees too. When you have done that, open Wallpaper Engine and set a wallpaper of choice!

Hey I have a little question, I also have a Dell 1905FP, but I think it"s an older model because I don"t have a ribbon cable but a normal cable with a plug. My problem is that I have peeled off one film but it still looks like there is a second film on the back because it is still a little blurry. But I"m afraid that if I try to pull them off, my LCD display will break. Maybe you have an idea. Thanks in advance

Terrific job! May I ask why you would need to remove the front polarizer? If my understanding is correct, both the front and back polarizers are needed in order for the LCD to work properly (i.e., the light gets polarized by the back polarizer first, and then passes through the front polarizer)? You comments will be appreciated!

I tried taking some photos, but I have covered the screen PCB with a cover, so it was hard to see in the photos. I basically just laid it inside the case with a 90-degree angle. I tried drawing it here: (view from the front)0

I used "wallpaper engine" to just set the animations as wallpaper on that screen. I mentioned it in the last step, but I could probably make a own step about that, if you are interested in more details.2

I think you should have more pics and info about the re- mounting the LCD. After all if you don"t do it right all that work is for nothing. While I understand your wiring diagram, I think that it should be explained and a larger part of this Instructible...for example to get white lite your are powering all 3 lanes (red,green,blue) on the RGB tape.

Hello, Wonderfull project, I have the same case and I would love to do it (if I have time and the screen to the right size). Just a question, can you put a photo of the cable connection to see if it"s easy to open the case ? One little suggestion, instead of connecting the panel to the graphic card (which mean to run a cable outside, why don"t you use a USB to VGA or DVI converter (like this https://www.amazon.fr/Adaptateur-convertisseur-adaptateur-Affichage-multi-écrans/dp/B079L81FRD/ref=asc_df_B079L81FRD/?tag=googshopfr-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=227894524041&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17927658121409960098&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9055710&hvtargid=pla-442905712462&psc=1) ?

Basically all you do is change the desktop picture on your computer screen to match what is behind it. It sounds simple, and in theory it is, but in practice it is actually a little bit tricky. But fear not, brave grasshopper, I have taken time away from my family to create this butt-kickin" instructable to share some pointers with you, with absolutely no hope of getting anything back in return! (Well, a pimped out laser cutter would be nice :-))

The next thing you have to do is choose where in your room you want the monitor to appear transparent from. In other words, which one vantage point in space do you want the illusion to hold up? Do you want it to be right in front of the computer, so anyone using it gets to enjoy your hard work? Do you want it to be at eye-level if someone peeks over the cubicle partition to see what you are working on? Do you want it to be from the eye level of your 6 year-old so if he stands in the doorway he "gets it?"

Also, don"t take a picture of just the area the screen occupied. Use a very hi-res setting on a digital camera and take larger pictures that you can crop down.

someday I will invent a monitor that goes clear when the screen should be black (like a window), and is solid when on. that would own all of the wires you moved in the back.

actualy almost all can do it but you wont have a backlight which makes using it difficult. lcd is a liquid crystal display that changes color based on the currrent going through it so yea its posible the liquid crystals are inside a plastic like case i dont know if the back of it is clear and i dont recomend doing it0

Once my lcd screen of my n95 was broken, so i disassembled it, and i found in the back side a white plastic, then between the glass and the plastic there is many sheets topped with aluminuim (i think because it looked like that!), and a tiny paper was directly stuck to the glass from it"s black side( of the paper) !!!0

The transparent display we offer for sale (CFAL12856A0-0151) is an OLED (Organic Light Emitting Diode) display. OLED displays produce images by emitting light in the corresponding color. To produce black in a normal OLED, the pixels are simply turned off. With the transparent display, if the pixels are turned off, the display is transparent rather than black.

We’ve heard from a few customers requests for transparent displays with black graphics as well as requests for larger transparent displays. This guide will walk you through creating a transparent display out of a graphic LCD.

A few caveats before we get much farther. First, doing this will definitely void your warranty on the display. Second, the display we’ll create is significantly less transparent than a transparent OLED displayas you can see in the above image with the hacked transparent display on the left and the transparent OLED on the right.

I saw a really cool video of a PC case called “Snowblind“, that had a transparent LCD Screen as a side panel. I was amazed over how cool it was. The only problem was that it was really expensive. Therefore, I tried making my own! In this instructables I will go through how I made it, and how you could make your own. The best of all, since it was made from an old monitor that was thrown away, it was basically free! I just added some LED strips on the inside of the case to get better contrast on the screen. You could probably re-use the monitors backlight, but it’s safer and easier to just get some cheap LED strips.

The transparent LCD is a kind of LCD screen that you can see through it when it’s working. You can read the information on the screen and see what’s behind it at the same time. Such a screen is not a new technology. It’s a branch of the traditional screen which has been more than 20 years.

The biggest difference between a transparent LCD and with traditional LCD screen is its light transmittance is higher. In theory, the higher the light transmittance, the better the effect that you can see through the screen.

The transparent LCD is the core part of the transparent monitor. It can not emit light by itself, so the backlight is essential when it’s working. If you don’t like the backlight, then what we recommend is the transparent OLED.

The transparent LCD is widely used in lots of applications, for example, video walls, vending machines, display boxes, and others. It usually is used with a touch screen. Such LCD with touch screen is interactive and interesting.

The transparent LCD  is made by a daily used liquid crystal display screen. Such a product is an LCD panel without an LED backlight. It has a proper name which is called open cell LCD panel. It doesn’t have a frame and the thickness is just about 1.4mm.

The transparent LCD has many custom features, such as size, resolution, and so on. If you want to use the such product normally, there are also some details that you need to pay attention to.

Plenty of clients buy a such product from us, but they can not use them or sell it to their customers right now when they get them. That’s because the transparent LCD is just a semi-finished product. Most of the clients need to install it on their machines.

GECEY can provide the full sizes of the transparent LCD. Please don’t worry about there is not having the proper size for your application. The most commonly used resolution of such a screen is 1920 x 1080 (FHD). If you need the 4K resolution( 3840 x 2160 ), please feel free to contact us first.

The transparent LCD has a professional name which is called open cell panel. You can see its appearance in the picture on the left below. It looks like a black panel with a driver board. The picture on the right below is its internal structure. We can see that the structure is complex. It contains two polarizers, two glass substrates, liquid crystals, and so on.

The polarizer is made of a kind of material that looks like plastic. It has a direction. It just allows the light in which the waves are in the same direction to pass through. The directions of the two polarizers are perpendicular to each other. The polarizer is like a light filter. It’s used to improve the color and definition. If there is a polarizer, you can see nothing from the screen.

The reason why we introduce the polarizer is that it can greatly influence the light transmittance and brightness of the screen. For the manufacturer, we usually change the polarizer to improve the light transmittance. The production process requires special workplaces, skilled workers, special materials, and special care. This is because the transparent LCD is very fragile and easy to be damaged.

Light transmittance is a very important parameter for transparent LCD. The higher the transmittance, the higher the brightness, and the more you can see the product behind the screen.

How much is the light transmittance of the common screen? The picture below is the SPEC of the AUO 32” open cell panel the model is T320HVN05.6 CELL. From the picture, we can see it’s 6.5%. If you check the SPEC of LCD screens which are from super manufacturers, such as Samsung, LG, AUO, and so on, you can find the transmittance of them is around 6.5%.

However, 6.5% is not enough for the transparent LCD display. So it’s essential to change the polarizer. Some special materials and polarizers are needed. The process is not easy, especially the big sizes. If the operation is wrong, the screen will be damaged.

The super manufacturers of open-cell panels will not do this for you. The process is finished by the manufacturer of a transparent LCD. So, finding a professional manufacturer is very necessary, if you want to buy some.

LED backlight: LCD can not emit light by itself. So it needs the backlight so that you can see through when it’s working. For details, please see the rest content.

Controller: Same with the common LCD panel, it needs the controller to work. The controller receives the signal from the computer or U disk and sends it to the panel, then the panel can display the letters, pictures, and others.

Glass: The glass is used to protect the transparent LCD. Although glass is not essential, it’s used in most applications. The LCD screen is glued on one surface of the glass.

Frame: The frame is essential. It’s used to hold the LCD screen, glass, backlight, control board, and other parts. Some clients need their supplier to make the frame for them, some others can make it by themselves.

The most commonly used backlight system is made of several LED strips with white light directly. The color temperature is about 6000K( pure white). The LED strips are placed on the back of the screen. They are usually located at the top or bottom or on the left and right sides of the space.

The LED strips are driven by a small controller so that they can work in sync with the transparent LCD. The LED backlight panel can also be used to make the backlight system. The key points are the light of the space should be bright and even enough.

Second, the transparent LCD is not suitable for playing pictures or videos with complex colors. The large area of complex colors will affect your to see through the screen. It would be hard to see the products behind the screen clearly. Please keep most areas of the LCD to play white color.

When the screen displays white, it’s the most perfect condition to watch the product behind it. So, when you make the pictures or videos, please keep the background to be white. Just use the transparent LCD to play the introductions or videos with simple color.

First, the transparent LCD can not emit light by itself. Second, the space around the screen can be divided into two parts: the dark area which is in front of the screen, and the bright area with backlight which is behind the screen. People can see through from the dark area to the bright area, but they can’t see through from the opposite direction.

Most of the transparent LCDs we exported are frameless. The clients have the frame and can install the product by themselves. If you don’t have the frame, then we can also make it for you. Most of the frames are made of aluminum and iron plate. The aluminum frames are light, strong, and easy to be produced. The frames have many custom features, such as sizes, thicknesses, and so on.

Plenty of clients want to use the transparent LCD to modify their products and they just need only one piece. For example, the LCD side panel PC case is very popular. There is a transparent screen on one side of the PC case. You can see the inside of the PC and play the videos you love at the same time.

Such a case for gaming looks very amazing so lots of people want to have one. However, it’s hard for them to find a supplier to buy just one piece of transparent LCD and it would take a long time to get one. So, they want to DIY by themselves.

There are some guides online that teach people to use a common monitor to DIY a transparent LCD. For example, use the screen of a second computer monitor to make one. The simple process is to remove most parts of the LCD panel of the monitor, leaving only the LCD screen( open cell), then install some LED strips and the open cell on their PC case.

Does it work? Yes, but there are many problems in the DIY process. First of all, you need to be very careful in the DIY process. The LCD open-cell glass is very fragile. There are several flexible PCB cables at the bottom of the screen. If either of them is damaged, then the screen can not work normally.

Second, the transmittance of the screen that you DIY is much lower than the professional transparent LCD. So the final effect is not as good as you think. There are also some other problems, for example, you need to put one tempered glass to protect the LCD screen. We recommend buying one transparent LCD directly.

Transparent display technology surrounds us, even if we aren’t aware of it. In this article we look at transparent head-up displays, LCDs, OLEDs and transparent electroluminescent technology and delve into the pros and cons of the four main transparent technology displays.

However, if you think this is new technology, think again. While most transparent technology has come to the fore since the millennium, it was being used as far back as the mid-20th century.

In this article, we’re looking at four types of transparent tech which include typical projection head-up displays (HUDs), LCDs, OLEDs, and transparent electroluminescent displays (TASEL). We’ll look at the pros and cons of each and show you how transparent display technology plays an essential part in our working lives and free time. An explanatory

The first steps into creating transparent head-up displays can be traced back as far as 1937. However, it wasn’t until the 1950s, following perfections to the technology by the US and British Royal Navies, UK Ministry of Defence and, finally, the Royal Aircraft Establishment in 1958, that the first true projection ‘head-up display’ was incorporated into aircraft.

There is also an emerging technology calledTASEL, which makes it possible to laminate displays in glass and show information without a projection system. However, as this a different transparent technology, we’ll mention thislaterin the article.

The most common transparent projection HUD is a display composed by a piece of flat glass used to project images in front of the pilot. This allows the pilot to keep their head up (hence the name ‘head-up display’) so they’re not distracted by looking down at their control panel for information during flight.

Why have we included LCDs as a transparent display when, at first glance, they’re not truly transparent? In fact, we’re only able to see the information on our monitors, such as laptops, with the introduction of a backlight and a reflector shield.

Take these away and we see true transparency of the LCD display - which is something Samsung did in 2012 with the production of theirSamsung Transparent Smart Window.

LCDs are also one of the most popular screens on the market and this rise occurred early in the 21st century when liquid-crystal-display sets rocketed in popularity. In 2007, LCDs eclipsed sales of competing technologies like plasma, cathode ray tube, and rear-projection TVs.

They were thinner and lighter, easier to scale. And for the manufacturers, the cost of production was lower, so it’s easy to see how LCD displays quickly became a favorite with manufacturers and consumers.

Organic light-emitting diode displays, orOLEDsfor short, are a step up from LCDs when it comes to transparent technology. For starters, unlike LCDs, OLEDs do not require the use of a backlight or any other filters due to the use of pixels which produce their own light.

The organic materials used in OLEDs are affected by the environment, they’re sensitive to moisture and screen discoloration occurs if subjected to direct sunlight and heat

Lumineq’s Transparent Electroluminescent displays consist of a glass panel with a luminescent phosphorous layer and a circuit board. The circuit board contains the drive and controls which are connected directly to the glass panel making the panel light up.

The transparent electroluminescent displays are good solutions for transportation vehicles such as cars, buses, trucks, trains, trams, boats, and airplanes because they can be laminated in glass and turn windows/windshields into information and functional displays.

It’s viewable from all angles, is visible in all types of weather conditions and is theonlytransparent display capable of working in the most extreme environments, from the freezing temperatures of the Arctic winter to the blistering heat of a desert summer.

However, due to the limitation of monochromatic images, transparent electroluminescent displays shouldn’t be used as entertainment screens in vehicles - they should be used to display only the most critical information in the eye-line of the driver without distractions.

This comparison of different transparent display technologies is conducted by the Ph.D. reseracher Jose Rosa for theImmerSAFE project. The project stands for "IMMERSIVE VISUAL TECHNOLOGIES FOR SAFETY-CRITICAL APPLICATIONS".

Each transparent display has its positives and negatives, and they’re all fantastic ways to showcase transparent display technology at its best when applied in areas which suit their purpose perfectly.

Lumineq’s transparent electroluminescent displays are ideal in transportation vehicles, heavy machinery, such as tractors, and optical devices, like range-finders and night-vision goggles.

To read how in-glass technology is making giant strides in optical devices, read our post ‘Bring augmented reality to optical devices with transparent displays’, or to find out more about Lumineq"s transparent electroluminescent technology,contact ustoday.

As exciting as these unlimited possibilities are, they also create a new need for understanding and embracing the benefits of see-through displays. The eBook from below will provide you with ideas, inspiration, basic guidelines and industry examples for designing transparent displays for vehicles – from cars, tractors, and ships to aircraft.

Hollywood studios use green screen to create all kinds of incredible special effects. Your local weatherperson uses it to look like they’re standing in front of a cool weather map.

But you don’t have to be a big-shot movie director or even a local TV station to enjoy the many benefits green screen (or, as it’s technically called — chroma key) offers.

In fact, all you need to make a professional-quality green screen video is a smartphone or webcam, some fabric, good video editing software, and a little know-how.

Using green screen in video replaces the background of a video with a digital or virtual background. It offers the most natural-looking way to integrate your subject into your video.

Instead of putting each visual element in its own frame (a la picture-in-picture), green screen lets you blend them. In fact, done correctly, you would never suspect they were two separate video streams.

In the most technical terms, green screen, blue screen, chroma key, chroma key compositing all refer to the same idea. Regardless of what you call it, it’s apost-production technique forcompositing (layering) two images or video streams together based on color hues (chroma range).

Given the current working conditions of most people during the global pandemic, it’s a safe bet you’ve had a Zoom meeting or two with coworkers or others who’ve had cool virtual backgrounds. Green screen is really the same concept, but will typically provide a more professional result.

As noted above, you’ve likely seen a meteorologist use a green screen to report the weather. Meteorologists stand in front of the green screen to point out specific parts of the forecast. But the green screen does more than provide clarity. It also allows them to personalize their broadcast and connect to their viewers.

Although you may not be detailing cold fronts from your desk, I’d bet you still have opportunities to connect with an audience at work. A green screen is a great option for adding a personal touch to lots of different types of videos.

Chroma key (remember, that’s green screen’s “technical name”) is a big deal for anyone who needs to connect with viewers. When done well, a green screen can give your video a professional aesthetic on the cheap.Create an online training video by superimposing yourself over all or just part of the lesson. This is an instant upgrade over talking through a PowerPoint presentation — and it’s way more impressive than just doing picture-in-picture with your webcam.

Whether you want to make it look like you (or your video subject) is on the moon or an African safari — or you just want to obscure the drab or uninspiring walls of your office or home studio, green screen makes it easy.

Blue screen backdrops are also available, but they can cause problems if the person on camera has blue eyes or clothes. If you don’t want to mess around with hanging a cloth, a collapsible green screen panel is a nice option.

Next, you’ll want to pick a camera or webcam that shoots HD quality video (720p or higher) at a decent frame rate (24 fps or above). Make sure your camera saves out files in a format your green screen software can import. We’ve had good success using an iPhone, but most any digital camcorder will work.

Shadows can be the enemy of great green screen video, so you want to be sure your background is as well-lit as possible. Use a flat green background. The flatter the green, the easier it will be to remove the screen.

The easiest thing to try is a couple of hardware store clamp-on work lights with high-output LED bulbs. You’ll also need something to clamp them on. Aim the lights so that the green screen doesn’t have dark areas or bright areas. Focus your efforts on the area directly behind the person you’re shooting. You’ll be able to crop out the excess space later.

To throw a lot of light, you need a few bulbs in each fixture. You couldbuild your own video lighting rig for less than $100 (see video below). Or if you’re not into DIY projects, you can shop around for a video softbox.CowboyStudio is a good place to start. Look for “continuous lighting” as opposed to flash or strobe lighting.

In theCamtasia video editor, you canremove your green screen with just a few clicks. In fact, Camtasia 2020 makes it easier than ever to create professional-quality videos — no pro skills required.

Green screen video may seem intimidating and difficult, but with the right tools and a few tips and tricks, anyone can master this useful technique. Whether you’re making videos for 5 or 5,000 people, they’ll be amazed at the professional quality and engaging experience green screen provides.

Adding a display to your Arduino can serve many purposes. Since a common use for microcontrollers is reading data from sensors, a display allows you to see this data in real-time without needing to use the serial monitor within the Arduino IDE. It also allows you to give your projects a personal touch with text, images, or even interactivity through a touch screen.

Transparent Organic Light Emitting Diode (TOLED) is a type of LED that, as you can guess, has a transparent screen. It builds on the now common OLED screens found in smartphones and TVs, but with a transparent display, offers up some new possibilities for Arduino screens.

Take for example this brilliant project that makes use of TOLED displays. By stacking 10 transparent OLED screens in parallel, creator Sean Hodgins has converted a handful of 2D screens into a solid-state volumetric display. This kind of display creates an image that has 3-dimensional depth, taking us one step closer to the neon, holographic screens we imagine in the future.

Crystalfontz has a tiny monochrome (light blue) 1.51" TOLED that has 128x56 pixels. As the technology is more recent than the following displays in this list, the cost is higher too. One of these screens can be purchased for around $26, but for certain applications, it might just be worth it.

The liquid crystal display (LCD) is the most common display to find in DIY projects and home appliances alike. This is no surprise as they are simple to operate, low-powered, and incredibly cheap.

This type of display can vary in design. Some are larger, with more character spaces and rows; some come with a backlight. Most attach directly to the board through 8 or 12 connections to the Arduino pins, making them incompatible with boards with fewer pins available. In this instance, buy a screen with an I2C adapter, allowing control using only four pins.

The screens are capable of a large variety of preset characters which cover most use cases in a variety of languages. You can control your LCD using the Liquid Crystal Library provided by Arduino. The display() and noDisplay() methods write to the LCD, as shown in the official tutorial on the Arduino website.

These tiny LCD screens are monochrome and have a screen size of 84 x 48 pixels, but don"t let that fool you. Coming in at around $2 on AliExpress, these displays are incredibly cheap and usually come with a backlight as standard.

Depending on which library you use, the screen can display multiple lines of text in various fonts. It"s also capable of displaying images, and there is free software designed to help get your creations on screen. While the refresh rate is too slow for detailed animations, these screens are hardy enough to be included in long-term, always-on projects.

For a step up in resolution and functionality, an OLED display might be what you are looking for. At first glance, these screens look similar to the 5110 screens, but they are a significant upgrade. The standard 0.96" screens are 128 x 64 monochrome, and come with a backlight as standard.

They connect to your Arduino using I2C, meaning that alongside the V+ and GND pins, only two further pins are required to communicate with the screen. With various sizes and full color options available, these displays are incredibly versatile.

These displays can be used in the same way as the others we have mentioned so far, but their refresh rate allows for much more ambitious projects. The basic monochrome screen is available on Amazon.

Thin-film-transistor liquid-crystal displays (TFT LCDs) are in many ways another step up in quality when it comes to options for adding a screen to your Arduino. Available with or without touchscreen functionality, they also add the ability to load bitmap files from an on-board microSD card slot.

Arduino have an official guide for setting up their non-touchscreen TFT LCD screen. For a video tutorial teaching you the basics of setting up the touchscreen version, YouTuber educ8s.tv has you covered:

With the touchscreen editions of these screens costing less than $10 on AliExpress, these displays are another great choice for when you need a nice-looking display for your project.

Looking for something a little different? An E-paper (or E-ink depending on who you ask) display might be right for you. These screens differ from the others giving a much more natural reading experience, it is no surprise that this technology is the cornerstone of almost every e-reader available.

This article has covered most options available for Arduino displays, though there are definitely more weird and wonderful ways to add feedback to your DIY devices.

Now that you have an idea of what is out there, why not incorporate a screen into your DIY smart home setup? If retro gaming is more your thing, why not create some retro games on Arduino?

Transparent LCD’s provide an innovative display solution opening up new ways for brands to promote their products and services. Examples include retail stores looking to advertise a new fashion clothing or accessory, museums securely housing a precious artifact with information displayed on screen or brands looking to launch a new product at a live event or show. The opportunities are endless!

Our Transparent LCD Displays include a Grade A LCD panel with metal bezel protecting the edges / electronics and a media board supporting HDMI or VGA inputs from your PC, Laptop or Media Player.

Transparent screen technology offers intriguing ways to deliver visual information to your audience, being used to reveal or conceal products, objects or artefacts behind the screen.

The combination of HD LCD technology (4K on our 65″, 86″, 98″ version) with a transparent screen substrate opens up creative avenues that were previously closed with traditional LCD displays. Solid black pixels on a transparent background can be used in intriguing ways to hide (and gradually reveal) whatever is behind the screen.

Our Transparent LCD monitors are designed for integration into the customers own furniture housing or display case while our Transparent LCD showcases offer a complete solution including the display, housing and backlight with white or black options available on request. We can also offer custom freestanding options for POP / POS displays. Transparent LCD’s are predominantly fully housed however we’ve recently developed an innovative housing method using a high brightness LED panel which allows the display case sides to remain transparent for improved visibly into the display case.

Using their original design as a starting point, we worked closely with the team at Nike to adapt to the mechanical aspects of the design, the result was a sleek and minimalist set of nine Transparent LCD Display Screens, custom built to suit the applications requirements, bringing Nike’s original concept ideas to life.

These screens can also be granted multi-touch capability by combining them with infrared touch frames or PCAP touch overlays, to add an interactive element to your installation. This creates a very powerful impact when the content on screen integrates with real life objects behind the screen, encouraging viewers to interact on a level that will exceed expectations.

Transparent LCD’s comprise of an LCD panel without the backlight with white pixels appearing as transparent. In order to display an image, the Transparent LCD needs to be integrated into a housing with a high bright LED backlight.

We can also offer more complete solutions like our Transparent LCD Showcase that comes fully contained and ready to use with a powerful backlighting system to guarantee the best picture quality.

Yes in order to display an image Transparent LCD’s need to have a strong backlight. Notoriously Transparent LCD’s have also needed some form of housing to achieve optimum image quality, however, Nike’s House of Innovation paired our Transparent LCD’s with powerful, oversized backlights that allowed the screens to be mounted with no surround but still producing a high-quality image.

Transparent LCD’s are arguably the most popular transparent screens but are hindered by their need for a backlight to operate. For applications looking for a similar effect without the backlighting, Transparent OLEDs require no housing or surround but are only currently available in a 55″ screen size with HD quality. For larger transparent screen applications, Transparent LED’s are recommended with external and internal solutions usually installed to glass facades for the impact of an led screen without compromising the view from inside the building.

We also offer transparent projection technologies including our Clearview Rear Projection Film featured in Guardians of the Galaxy as well as at the 83rd Oscars celebration and MTV EMA awards.

Transparent LCD’s are a great way to combine physical and digital displays in one central place making them a popular choice for museums and exhibitions. Our transparent screens can also be integrated into display furniture and appliances & vending machines like freezer doors for supermarkets. Other uses include POS displays, store window displays, trade shows and product launches.

We manufacture in Britain and ship worldwide – if you need further information, a pricing quote, or want to discuss ideas for using our Transparent LCD Display click the link below to contact us, email us via info@prodisplay.com or call us on +44 (0)1226 361 306.

I have one of the earrrly pi’s (256MB), and running kweb browser (for minimal browser size). When the picture changes, I get a scroll bar in the browser which stays up for about 1-2 seconds, then leaves, and the picture resizes to full-screen. Does Chromium do this??

I have a V1 Pi so I downloaded Wheezy. Everything worked fine except I can’t get it to launch automatically into the browser and full screen when turned on. Would I need to change where it says ‘chromium’ to ‘ephinany’?

Hi Jamie, in Raspbian Wheezy, the autostart file is here: /etc/xdg/lxsession/LXDE-pi/autostart. So you’ll want to add your commands there. I’m not sure of the command for epiphany in full screen. You might want to install Chromium if possible!

I was actually wondering if it would be possible to make a picture wall with several different sized screens like the guys did with PiWall only in stead of video with pictures from Instagram/Flickr etc. and if I would need the same setup eg: one pi per screen and a master?

Love this product. I’m having a consistent issue though running Debian Jessie and Chromium… every few update cycles I get the white screen which says that the content cannot be displayed and I have to f5 refresh. I installed an extension which refreshes the page every few minutes and it seemed to help lengthen the periods between crashes… but if the page crashes between cycles of the refresh extension, then it doesn’t work. Any recommended workarounds?

i have completed the diy dakboard and im having a issue where i have to expand the browser to full screen after it boots and loads the browser. Any idea’s? Thank you David

Hey Simon, no problem! You’ll want to use the “–kiosk” flag in the autostart file to start chromium in full screen (removing the address bar). The –noerrdialogs and –incognito flags should hide those shut down messages.

Hey Thank you for the help today with the full screen issue i was having I have built two of the dakboards total one for my household and one for my dads house. I am very interested in the rss feed option. I hope you enjoy the two beers. Thanks again.

If you have your screen mounted vertically/portrait, make sure you have the “Screen Orientation” option set to portrait as well, in the DAKboard settings (gear icon). This will put the events across the top and give you a lot more room! Hope that helps.

Other than that minor issue,it’s working great. I am also trying to replace the automatic shut off based on time and instead using a PIR sensor to shut the screen off after a few minutes of no motion detected.

OniK, so I’m using midori, as chromium seems to just stop after a while of running. Now it seems that the midori version is doing the same thing. It starts up, and runs for a while (not sure how long yet) then later it shows just the black (background) screen, indicating that the midori browser has quit.

I started on a RPi 3 but have moved it to a Pi Zero with the same image and it’s working. It’s seems a bit slow in that there is a 6-8 second freeze when the photo changes. I’m not sure why but I’m going to work further on it. If I can get that ironed out I’m going to look at mounting the zero inside the screen case as there’s enough empty space

However, I just found DAKboard yesterday and LOVED IT immediately. Such a beautiful interface. I loaded it up on a fullscreen browser in Android on the MM. Unfortunately, the interface is just way too small for that small of a screen. The scaling isn’t right, and I’m hoping that is a feature that can be added later to adapt to smaller screens so I can use it in the future. I would love to be able to have a few screens around the house too displaying some more ‘custom’ information or RSS feeds. Thank you Dan, I’ll be following the project!

Oh goodness! I am in over my head! I have never programmed a raspberry pi (or programmed anything really), but I got one just to do this dakboard DIY project. I followed the steps above (well, I thought I did ), and upon rebooting, I was greeted with the “There is no internet connection” message. DOH! Now, I don’t know how to get back to the “regular” GUI place so that I can try to trouble-shoot the code. Can someone help me out?

my question is do you know of a way to integrate a motion detector to power the screen on and off when it detects movement? …. sorry if this is not the proper place to ask i am very new to raspberry pi…. i have had one for year but all ive ever done is play mario on it…

Henk – tell us more. I want to use some device in my house that knows I’m home (nest/dropcam/Canary/etc) to tell the screen to turn on when it knows I’m home, and off when I leave.

it shuts the hdmi signal off, however when it comes back up it’s a black screen. When I manually hit Ctrl+Alt+f6 it pulls up the login screen where i would enter the login and after that I hit Ctrl+Alt+f7 and it starts the DakBoard. What am I doing wrong that it is not starting automatically?

You don’t use your username and password. You need to go to your “Account” screen at dakboard.com and use the link titled “Private URL”. That will tell the system to load that page.

I have messed up at the point where I wrote the code for the autostart part. I successfully get back to Terminal to rewrite it, but something is still wrong and I’m only getting the Incognito screen with no Dakboard. The background is black when i remove -kiosk. How do I remove the autostart all together it so it reboots to the Raspbian GUI home again?

I just read about this in MagPi. Looks pretty neat. I haven’t read through all the comments but was wondering if you considered using one of the GPIO pins to connect to a sensor (infrared and others) to detect when someone is in front of display to turn on screen? That way the screen is dark when no one is around to see it. Saves life of display along with power. Just a suggestion.

Another way to do this, is to use a service like IFTTT with some home automation triggers to turn on the screen when the other devices know you are home.

E.g.: My Canary home security system “knows” I am home based on GPS/Bluetooth proximity. It also knows that there is movement, regardless of who it is. I’d like to have the screen off during the day unless it sees movement.

If you are having problems getting stuck at the “incognito” screen on startup, you might try entering the @chromium line in “autostart” directly rather than cut&paste. I think cut&paste from the instruction above introduces an extra line feed somehow. I put the url directly following the — kiosk command, and followed it with -incognito (with a single -, as suggested on another site). I’m not sure which change did the trick, but I’m betting it was forcing the url early enough so it didn’t get messed up.

Love DAKboard and the fact that it uses RPI3 makes it great for projects especially with FLICKR being an add on photo source. I like the idea of the pictures rotating through while on calendar mode, but I was wondering, I’ve searched all over the vast internet and found different things about making the calendar also a smart photo display so that its not a constant calendar on the screen but rather works like a screen saver to display photos. I know that it requires the install of a PIR to wake it up and go back to DAKboard display but I just cant seem to find the coding to make it into a screensaver as well as to access FLICKR the same way you guys do on the calendar side. Here is the video that created the idea that I wanted to duplicate:

( https://youtu.be/BjcLACRTiUw ) I already have the monitor and RPI setup to access the DAKboard interface but just wanted to add the screensaver feature the same way just using FLICKR rather than GOOGLE for everything. If this is something you guys can help me out with that would be phenomenal.

To test this I set up samba, created a shared drive location and drop a couple of files there. I can access the pictures from my file system and through my Apache2 server. When I configure DAKboard to use the URL of the location of the picture files, I just get a black screen. Why? Any help is very much appreciated.

I’m working on setting this up for my wife as a birthday present. I love it so far. One problem I am running into is on the display it will only show me 3 days of the week. I can’t find in the dakboard settings how to make the screen orientation portrait. I know this has to be something simple I am overlooking.

Thanks for the great DIY article. One of the challenges I’m facing is in making the install more streamlined. To do this, I’d prefer to have the same power source powering the Raspberry Pi. I’m considering hard-wiring the Pi to the power supply within the monitor, but wanted to get your thoughts on that approach or if other approaches exist.

I’m using the script referenced above and am able to get the monitor to sleep at the appropriate time, however when it ‘wakes up’, the screen is black, even though the PI is still on

Hi, I had the same issue and could not get it to work reliably. I ended up using a WiFi enabled power socket (Orvibo) to power the screen off and on a schedule. The benefit of this approach is you can use a Home Automation application (I use Domoticz) to control it.

It was fun and easy to do this project with your explanation. Only ran against 1 thing. I do not use a screen connected to hdmi, but the raspberry 7″ display. That is connected with the ‘ribbon’.

I have followed the instructions to a “T”, as far as I can tell. However after reboot I only get an incognito gray screen – not the DAKboard site. What am I doing wrong?

I’ve recently set up a free account and have everything running on a Raspberry Pi 2 and a 20in Dell widescreen, but for the life of me I can’t find the DAKBoard setting to change my predefined screen to portrait.

I can see the aspect ratio and orientation settings on the (disabled) custom screen, but not the default predefined screen available for free accounts.

Everything works but my browser (Chromium) will not auto-login at DAKboard. I have saved my login in my browser, I have pasted my private-URL adress in command line but after reboot I see DAKboard loginpage in fullscreen?

Thanks for this nice tutorial. Everything worked perfect except one thing. When it starts up the HDMI port at 05:00. I woke up at 07:00 and found the screen lit up and on but the pi seemed to send out a dark screen. Rebooted the pi and it started up correct. What might be the problem? Pi going into sleep mode?

Easiest way I found is to open another terminal session CTRL-ALT-F2 and then login. You can then shutdown the pi from there. CTRL-ALT-F7 will put you back in the DAK screen.

I have set up a raspberry Pi runinng my DakBoard in a kiosk mode browser that opens my Dakboard screen on boot – but when loaded I’m asked to login despite I use the private URL from the screens settings and defaults.

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You want to resize the actual image to fit the container before you upload it to your website. I usually resize my images 1.5 times larger than the container so it looks good on a retina screen, which in this example would be 972 pixels square.

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