lcd panel bezel mod manufacturer

An LCD video wall is a large visualization surface that is built from multiple LCD displays (also known as ‘tiles’). These individual displays are designed specifically for use in these applications, and differ highly from normal television sets. The biggest differences are the bezel width, the mounting system, and the reliability. Normal television sets are designed to play a few hours per day, these specific panels are expected to play much more. Often even 24/7. And because the environments in which these video walls are deployed are sometimes critical, the uptime needs to be as high as possible.

Especially important for video walls, is a perfect calibration. This is not only restricted to a single panel. More critical, is that the color and brightness settings of the complete wall match. This means that the values of all panels need to be synchronized with the surrounding displays. If not, even the slightest deviation in color or brightness will make the wall seem out of balance.

High brightness: The light output of LCD video walls is generally quite high. Especially compared to LED-lit rear-projection cubes, LCD scores better. This allows the use in most lighting conditions - even in daylight.

Low real estate needs: Rear-projection cubes are quite deep, and (unless front access is available) need a rear maintenance area. As such, they need a lot of real estate space. LCD video walls only take the place on the wall of the panel depth and the wall mounting. This is usually less than 20 cm / 7.9”.

Many people have investigated the possibility of upgrading these screens, notably on Notebook Review Forum at the thread "X1 display on a T430?" and on ThinkPad-Forum at the thread "T420/T430 auf FHD-Panel umrüsten (wie Alienware 14" FHD matt) ... Gibt"s schon Infos?".

T440s/T440p 1080p FHD IPS - This 1920x1080 panel is a very high resolution display with a beautiful IPS screen to rival those equipped on the X220/X230. Unfortunately, one drawback is that these screens use the new eDP standard, instead of the T420/T430"s LVDS output.

X1 Carbon 1600x900 TN Panel - An LVDS panel requiring no conversion, though it needs the cable to be extended While it"s a TN Panel, it looks much better than anything on the T420/T430.

_Before starting to buy expensive parts (the LCD panel) and before starting to dismantle the computer, I advise anyone interested in the X1 Carbon screen to first look at extending the LCD cable, because there are multiple different methods for doing so: some work, some don"t, and some are difficult._

If you just want to replace a 1366x768 HD screen with the typical T430 1600x900 HD+ screen, follow this guide instead. This guide is an experimental mod to put a T440s FHD IPS or X1 Carbon screen in a T420/T430.

T440p and T440s feature excellent IPS/AHVA panels (1920x1080, Full-HD), that by definition are superior to the screen mounted on the X1 Carbon. They"ve been reported to have same dimensions, but use different connection standards (eDP instead of LVDS).

As of July 29th, 2015, Chinese ThinkPad modders at 51nb have developed an eDP to LVDS converter board that allows most T440s/T440p 1080p FHD IPS Panels to be installed on ThinkPad T420/T430 and T420s/T430s models. (non-s and s models use different-sized boards due to case constraints). Unfortunately, due to linguistic barriers and shipping fees, it is difficult for these modders to sell to the English-language market, much less offer support.

But from time to time some ThinkPad fans with connections (like RMSMajestic) are able to obtain a batch.. He sells it for $40 (s model) or $50 (non-s model), with $5 cont. US shipping and $15 or more international: though the catch is that you need to be a ThinkPad Forums member.

Keep the old screen safe. You might be tempted to throw that awful screen against the wall, but if you ever need to send your ThinkPad for warranty repair, you should reinstall the old screen first. That way, there is no trace the ThinkPad was modified.

This isn"t a trivial task: you will need to unplug the keyboard and the keyboard bezel assembly. If you"re a bit practical with this sort of things, it would take approximately 40 minutes. If this is your first time opening a laptop, maybe you should ask someone to help.

Instructions for replacing the LCD cable can be found on Lenovo website: "LCD panel and LCD cable removal and installation - ThinkPad T430 and T430i".

The cable connector of X1 Carbon panel is in the wrong position: on the right instead of left. In order to connect the panel to the LCD cable is therefore necessary an extension (sometimes "converter cable" or "extender cable").

If you don"t want to irreversibly remove parts of the back shell, this is the only possible arrangement that allows to connect the screen with the LCD cable using a standard "left to right" LCD cable extension. Representation not to scale.

Unfortunately, cables of this length are difficult to find from reliable sellers. Also, each model presents different challenges and requires certain folding methods or modifications to work. Be aware that the screen mod is still under constant research, and trial and error will probably be necessary to find the right seller offering the right product.

The most common model of extension cable seems perfect for the job: the only necessary modification is a small cut (see picture). Unfortunately, such model has been proved not to work on the long run: the tight bend next to the male connector has the effect of deteriorating the soldering between the connector and the cable itself.

A model of cable extension where the male connector isn"t soldered. Unfortunately, in order to fold it near the male connector, it is necessary to remove two plastic layers that are very well glued to the cable.

This cable mod, while difficult, works fine (I"m using my modified T430 from a couple of month and it"s working perfectly). So if you can"t find the cable in A Simple Solution that works, this is your best alternative.

Searching the internet I found some pictures depicting a cable extension where the vertical segment near the male connector is longer than standard (see picture). I"m pretty sure that its form factor, by allowing to fold the cable far from the connector, would enable not to damage the soldering, without requiring important modifications.

Although X1 Carbon LCD panel isn"t fitted with screw holes, placing it in the T430 body is quite straightforward. This new panel have indeed dimensions perfectly equal to the original and, once in its place, it is vertically sustained by the original vertical supports. The screen can be supported horizontally too by adding shims on its left (I"ve used folded cardboard), see the picture. Thin shims are necessary on the back of the screen too.

Finally, the screen will be locked in its position by the screen bezel. While re-assembling the bezel, start from the lower side and pay attention to correctly fasten the three hooks present in the center part of this side (it is difficult, but if you don"t do it you"ll end up with a big hump).

Hi everybody! Bill Owen from Mnpctech. I hope you"re having a great day! Several people have asked if I could share the steps on how I do my Touchscreen LCD mod in PC Computer case bezels, and you’ve come to the right video!

I’ve been using this Amazon 5 Inch Capacitive Touch Screens for $52.99 delivered on Amazon Prime, I’ll posted a link in Video description. The kit comes a with Micro USB for power and HDMI video connector, but these cables are too short for these PC case mods. It includes M3 stand-offs, a Driver Disc and some Instructions. It’s a 5 point Capacitive Touch screen with a Resolution of 800 x 460, which is just fine for it’s 5” viewing screen In addition to the LCD touchscreen, I will buy the following cables for my Desktop Custom PC LCD Case Mod.

One 3ft “Right Angle” 270 degree HDMI cord, 6” 90 Degree Angle HDMI Extension Adapter, and 3ft USB Male to Micro B power connector. For Mounting the LCD Touchscreen Panel, I use 3/16” thick Black acrylic to make custom mounting brackets for the LCD touch screen.

You can PAUSE the video on this page to record the measurements that I’ve made for cutting the acrylic. This PC Case Mod is very easy. "The reason I’m making brackets for my desktop PC LCD Monitor Mod?" I want the ability to easily install or remove the Touchscreen with thumbscrews. I’m using 1/8” drill bit for acrylic, and 6/32 thread tap, These Black thumbscrews from Mnpctech.com. I’ll use the 1/8” drill bit to increase the diameter of the holes in the LCD pcb frame.

I discovered these drill bits for plastic several years ago, Notice the bit isn’t splintering or cracking the acrylic as I make the holes. Mnpctech stocks a variety of these drills bits. My mod requires Twelve 6/32 washers, and links posted in description, “Why so many washers?” We want the Touchscreen to mount flush on the backside of the bezel, I also don’t want to apply any unnecessary pressure to the screen or the PCB, See how this sheet of paper easily slides under the screen Next stage is cutting the hole in the bezel, The best PC case for this mod is the ones without optical drive bays, which every popular case manufacturer now offers.

If you’re using an older case with 5.25 drive bays, you could attach a mounting plate with 5” opening that covers THREE 5.25 bays. That’s how we did this mod in the early days of PC Modding. Determine and measure out a location in the center of your bezel, you can also mount the LCD vertically if you prefer, and just change the screen orientation in Windows. Since the bezel is plastic, I’m using a Dremel with 1.5” reinforced cut off wheel, Don’t forget to always wear eye protection when using power tools. Oops, WTH? Hahaha After cutting our 5” diagonal square hole, I’ll hand file the edges so everything is precise and clean. You may have to remove sound insulation foam from backside of your bezel, I’m using E6000 adhesive to attach the two mounting brackets. This adhesive is very GOOEY at first, so consider masking off the screen, to prevent getting any of this on it. I like that it’s tacky for couple of minutes, so I have time to position the LCD in place, and then I’ll temporarily tape it in place while it cures overnight.

Mounting your Touchscreen LCD in the PC this way allows you to easily remove and re-install the LCD at any time. Especially if you ever need to replace it for some reason. Let’s get this LCD touchscreen connected to the PC, all of the cables are routed from the front to thee rear PCI slots. *3ft “Right Angle” 270 degree HDMI cord *6” 90 Degree Angle HDMI Extension Adapter cable, I plug this compact cable into the Touchscreen to save space. *3ft USB Male to Micro B power connector This mod is great if you want an extra screen for monitoring your hardware and temps. You can also display Weather or calendar or email notifications,

Check out http://www.Rainmeter.net this community offers several hundred custom mad graphic interfaces for FREE, and you can configure your screen to display a variety of updated information tasks Thanks for watching! And Again, all of the products used in this PC case mod are listed in the video description.

NEC"s 55" UN552S sets the standard for quality color reproduction in video wall environments. Direct LED backlighting and factory calibration for brightness intensity, gamma, uniformity, white point and RGB allows for ideal panel settings and an easy out-of-the-box experience. Brand new panel technology minimizes the bezel gap of this display, allowing for a <1.0mm distance between adjacent displays with a 0.44mm even and near bezel-less design per unit. This display is integrated with the proprietary SpectraView Engine, which not only allows for ultimate color control but also allows for increased color calibration capabilities including white copy, self calibration to an external sensor and manual CIE chromaticity adjustment for maximum control when color matters most. This display also includes both a DisplayPort and an HDMI Out connections for daisy chaining signals up to 4K UHD. This new generation of display also received a full chassis upgrade with faster processing times, evolved daisy chain performance, and new TileMatrixing capabilities.

Industrial-strength, premium-grade panel with additional thermal protection, internal temperature sensors with self-diagnostics and fan-based technology, allow for 24/7 operation

While these advancements are all attempts at maximizing screen real estate for the handset, the dimensions of the body of the phone remained generally similar. Side bezels have already been pretty minimal for a while, so display manufacturers have been trying to minimize the top and bottom bezels, called the "forehead" and the "chin", respectively. As the forehead and chin are being minimized on the same phone body, the screen aspect ratio of the display becomes lengthier. We"ve gone from the standard 16:9 aspect ratio to 18:9, and now most full-screen displays — whether it has a notch, pop-up camera, or hole-punch — have a screen aspect ratio of about 19.5:9 while retaining a similar phone body dimension and aspect ratio.

Sony took increasing the screen aspect ratio to the next level. The Xperia 1 display has a long 21:9 screen aspect ratio that conforms to the aspect ratio of many cinema films. To achieve this, the body of the phone itself had to be made longer than typical phone dimensions of its width. The phone body has the width of a modern compact/non-plus sized phone like the Galaxy S10, but with the length of a plus-plus sized phone (like the OnePlus 7 Pro). Sony is also not necessarily going for the highest screen-to-body ratio here; no notch or hole-punch, just a looong unobstructed screen with a small chin and forehead. Sony includes a feature called "Side sense" that aides in the usability of the Xperia 1 — double-tap or swipe on the side bezel of the phone to bring out a menu or invoke an action, such as One-handed mode on a swipe-down (if you"re not using this, you"re using the phone wrong).

For the Xperia 1, Sony took it to Samsung Display to manufacture this unique panel. The Sony Xperia 1 has the first mobile 4K OLED panel, and the difference is definitely noticeable when consuming 4K content. However, the display only renders the Android UI at 1080p (2560×1096), but it still appears plenty sharp because of how the OLED PenTile arrangement sub-samples the pixels at such a high native subpixel density. Only when playing true 4K content will the Sony Xperia 1 render at its native 4K (3840×1644) resolution. In any case, the Sony Xperia 1 has the sharpest mobile OLED display on the market.

Sony keeps it simple with just two screen profiles: Standard mode and Creator mode. Sony even includes a description of the profiles" intent, which more phones should really do.

Standard mode is the default profile of the Xperia 1, and despite the "standard" label, Sony clearly defines the profile to "expand the original color gamut". The profile actually projects the sRGB color gamut onto the P3 color gamut, but the profile itself also supports (somewhat broken) automatic color management. For apps that support wide color gamut, Sony notes that it will automatically show the original colors, so wide color gamuts are not further expanded, just sRGB. The profile targets a standard 2.20 gamma, but since Sony enables OLED dynamic brightness, the gamma tends to vary and be higher than it should.

Creator mode claims to "provide a faithful reproduction of the creator"s intended vision", which is vaguer than the description for Standard mode, but it leads us to believe that the profile is supposed to be the "accurate" profile that follows industry standards. That means we expect it to target the sRGB standard chromaticities, white point, and transfer function for standard colors, and follow the characteristics of embedded color profiles. But as we show later, this is not exactly the case. Color space primaries are targeted by Android"s CMS, but the profile itself constantly targets the BT.1886 transfer function, which follows a straight gamma of 2.40 for OLED displays. This is the industry standard transfer function for Rec. 709 and home theater video, which Sony seems to be catering to for the "Creator mode" profile. For casual media content and just about everything else, a straight gamma of 2.20 is still the standard, so we find the profile"s higher gamma inappropriate as the profile"s base transfer function.

The biggest issue with the Sony Xperia 1"s display is that it doesn"t have a preset that conforms to a D65 (6504 K) white point. This really tanks its color accuracy measurements. The default "Medium" white balance preset is quite cold with a white point color temperature of about 7300 K and a high ΔEof 7.3. It is shown clearly that the entire gamut is shifted towards blue, and this heavily impacts color accuracy. The Creator mode in the default "Medium" white balance preset has an average ΔE of 2.9 for the sRGB gamut, which is high for flagship standards. Only about 43% of the gamut appears accurate (ΔE < 2.3), and ΔEvalues can get as high as 7.5 for cyan shades. This is atrocious for the default Creator mode option, and Sony should really refine the profile to having a D65 base as the "Medium" white balance, at least for Creator mode.

The "Warm" white balance preset brings the white point down to about 6900 K, which is still too cold. However, with this white balance preset, the average ΔEof Creator mode improves to 1.6, and the maximum color errors are brought down to a ΔEof 3.9, which is not as bad. About 79% of the sRGB gamut appears accurate, which is a huge improvement, but it"s still lacking compared to other flagships and it"s still non-optimal for color-sensitive work.

Things start to get weird with Sony"s (and Google"s) color management system. For this review, I used Google Photos to stage my P3 test patterns since it now supports P3 (and only P3) color management. The issue is that Sony forces an HDR display mode whenever in Google Photos, likely as a hack to playback Sony"s own HDR-recorded videos from its native camera app, However, when viewing any photo in Google Photos, the Xperia 1 switches to a P3 HDR display mode. The HDR display mode has a different white point calibration as well as a different gamma mode which disables dynamic brightness system-wide. The white point calibration has an increased green signal, which actually drives the color temperature slightly warmer (7150 K). As a result, our measured P3 targets are slightly more accurate than our normal sRGB targets, with an average ΔEof 2.1. About 64% of the P3 gamut appears accurate, but the maximum error is still too high at ΔE= 7.0 for highly-saturated cyan-blues. Once again, using the "Warm" white balance preset helps notably improve color accuracy.

As previously noted, the Creator mode transfer function doesn"t follow a standard gamma of 2.20 but instead targets the BT.1886 transfer function for modern home theater, which is essentially a straight gamma of 2.40 for OLED displays. The BT.1886 transfer function is great for videos in a dim environment, but phones are used in all sorts of brighter environments and used for much more than watching digital films. A base gamma of 2.20 is still the most practical target for a phone display until phone manufacturers can implement a proper dynamic gamma system based on ambient light.

However, the profile itself is called Creator mode, so it"s not exactly meant to be used by your average consumer in a typical office environment. Typically, photos and videos are professionally mastered in very low lighting to minimize light contamination and to maintain a consistent ambient environment. In low lighting, humans have higher contrast sensitivity, which is why higher display gammas are used for the increased contrast and dynamic range. As a good rule of thumb, a display gamma of 2.40 at 0 lux ambient light looks perceptually similar to a display gamma of 2.20 at 200 lux. When finalizing a photo or video, the target audience has to be evaluated by the masterer to determine the content"s output gamma. If the image or video is to be casually posted online, like on social media or YouTube, it should be output with a 2.20 gamma so the content looks right in most environments. If it is a film primarily to be viewed in a dim environment, it is rendered with a 2.40 gamma. The Creator profile isn"t aimed at the average person, but for those that wish to master content in a dim environment. The profile claims that it provides a "faithful reproduction of the creator"s intended vision", which I"ve explained is typically done in low light where a higher gamma is used.

I measured Creator mode to have an average gamma of 2.49, ranging from 2.41 to 2.58, so most content will appear to have higher contrast than standard in this profile. Colors will also appear darker than standard, too. The slightly large range in gamma is due to the OLED"s dynamic brightness, which improves brightness for lower emission ratios/APLs, but negatively impacts gamma calibration, causing it to increase the higher the display brightness. Dynamic brightness should ideally be disabled for display profiles that target a consistent gamma.

Interestingly enough, there"s actually a bug in the Sony Xperia 1 that disables the dynamic brightness. All you have to do is view HDR content, and dynamic brightness is disabled system-wide, even after exiting HDR content. This is an interesting bug since dynamic brightness is probably disabled to accurately reproduce the HLG/PQ transfer function of the HDR content, and Sony probably forgot to re-enable it when exiting. Without dynamic brightness, the Sony Xperia 1 display has nearly no change in brightness at higher or lower APLs. When measuring Creator mode"s gamma without dynamic brightness, the average gamma goes down to 2.42, with a tight gamma range of 2.40 to 2.43, fitting much better to the BT.1886 target transfer function.

The Standard mode, which Sony wants their typical phone consumers to use, targets the Display P3 color space with a much more standard 2.20 gamma. I measured the profile to average a gamma of 2.32, ranging from 2.23 to 2.41. Again, the high variance is due to the dynamic brightness of the OLED. When the dynamic brightness is disabled, the gamma then only ranges from 2.23 to 2.27 and averages to 2.25. Since the profile is not necessarily meant to be accurate, the variance and slightly higher gamma are not as important issues.

Current smartphone displays are not exactly primed to be rigorously assessed against HDR10 standards, but Sony went all-in boasting a true cinematic 4K HDR experience with the Xperia 1. Sony claims BT.2020 support and 10-bit color depth on the Xperia 1. However, the OLED panel on the Sony Xperia 1 isn"t actually a 10-bit panel, but 8-bit with 2-bit dithering during HDR10 playback. The Xperia 1 spec sheet on Sony"s website notes this in their footnotes, as well as that the display does not cover the full BT.2020 gamut. For the most part, it"s looking like it has the same HDR10 capabilities as any other flagship outside of its 4K resolution and its "cinematic" 21:9 aspect ratio.

The Sony Xperia 1 is an extremely ambitious mixture of hardware and software. Sony markets its display as the ultimate cinematic experience as well as a professional-grade monitoring tool. The hardware is no doubt of exceptional quality — the Sony Xperia 1"s display is a top-shelf panel that competes with the best in gamut and in brightness and currently leads the market in sharpness. The viewing angles, black clipping, and black smear are aligned with Samsung"s own. However, the absence of a D65 white point along with no profile fully conforming to sRGB is completely antithetical to Sony"s campaign towards content creators. For the most part, the only bad things about the display are geared specifically towards content creators, colorists, and nerds. The Standard mode is an excellent profile for casual consumers that don"t care about color accuracy and just want vibrant screen colors. However, it isn"t uncommon for users to want an accurate color mode for editing photos, and Sony"s Creator mode isn"t completely fit for photo editing. The panel is definitely capable of true professional-grade calibration, both in color and in tone response. A simple adjustment to the RGB white balance can yield a chroma-accurate display, and a bug in the software shows that the panel can accurately track a straight gamma. Both should have been included in the Sony Xperia 1 in the first place, and then perhaps calling it "professional level" wouldn"t be such a stretch.