mount lcd panel in case free sample

I saw a really cool video of a PC case called "Snowblind", that had a transparent LCD Screen as a side panel. I was amazed over how cool it was. The only problem was that it was really expensive. Therefore, I tried making my own! In this instructables I will go through how I made it, and how you could make your own. The best of all, since it was made from an old monitor that was thrown away, it was basically free! I just added some LED strips on the inside of the case to get better contrast on the screen. You could probably re-use the monitors backlight, but it"s safer and easier to just get some cheap LED strips.

The first step is to disassemble the monitor. The disassembly is pretty well documented in the video I made. I have also added some pictures so you can see the steps. The steps of disassembling the monitor will not be the same for every monitor, therefore I will not go into detail of every step.

PS: DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE MONITOR UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. THE PSU COULD STILL HAVE SOME CHARGE IN THE CAPACITORS THAT MIGHT ELECTROCUTE YOU.

You will have to reverse engineer the controller to find the power connections, and solder a new power connector on. This way, you can use the ATX power supply that powers your computer. I used a multimeter, where I had one probe to the ground plane (For example around the mounting screws), and used the other probe to search for 5V or 12V power on the pins coming from the power supply.

First, remove the frame of the panel. It is fixed with clips, so just bend the frame a little and lift the frame up. Next, separate the front LCD from the backlight. For the next step, you will have to be careful. This step involves removing the anti glare film. It is glued to the panel, and therefore it"s easy to break the LCD when trying to remove it.

To remove it place some paper towels on top, and then carefully pour water on it until the towels are soaked. Let it sit for around 24 hours. After 24 hours, try to start pealing the layer from the corner. If it sticks in some places, place a wet paper towel on that space and wait some more.

Then you are done modding the LCD! Now, you can hook it up to the panel and test it. Just be careful with the ribbon cables going from the LCD PCB to the panel.

The side panel of this case fits the LCD perfectly. Just line it up to the side facing the back, and to the top, and use some tape to tape it to the glass. Then, use some vinyl on the outside where the LCD is not covering the glass.

Next, use some double-sided tape to fix the LED strips to the inside of the frame. Then, solder them together in series. You can now solder on a wire and connect them to the 12V line of the Molex connector.

It"s really important to have lots of lights inside the case, to make it easier to see the LCD. Therefore, try to fill the case with even more LED strips.

You are now ready to assemble everything. In this case, the controller fit nicely in the hard drive compartment, so I glued it there and fed the ribbon cable through the hole in the inside of the case. That way it was pretty much hidden inside the case.

Now you can carefully mount the side panel back on the computer. You might have to drill a new hole for the thumb screw in the back to make it fit properly.

You can now power up the computer, open the screen settings and set it up for dual screens. You might have to flip the display 180 degrees too. When you have done that, open Wallpaper Engine and set a wallpaper of choice!

Hey I have a little question, I also have a Dell 1905FP, but I think it"s an older model because I don"t have a ribbon cable but a normal cable with a plug. My problem is that I have peeled off one film but it still looks like there is a second film on the back because it is still a little blurry. But I"m afraid that if I try to pull them off, my LCD display will break. Maybe you have an idea. Thanks in advance

Stunning result ! Bought for 10€ a Dell 1907FPc which is fairly similar to yours. I have trouble identifying the pin layout to find the 5V pin. Did you plug in the power supply to your AC while checking with your multimetter ?0

Great tutorial and video! I"m trying my hand at replicating your process and I even got my hands on the exact monitor. I have reached the point where I"ve disassembled the panel and controllers, and discharged the capacitors from the PSU, but I am a little stuck at this point because I don"t know how to wire up the molex header. I watched your video and saw that you had two wires soldered to the power connector. Which connectors are they and where do they go on the molex cable? Thank you!

Really neat. I saw the same snowblind case and wanted it but too expensive. I also saw someone who made their own using a USB monitor. But I like your setup better.2

Terrific job! May I ask why you would need to remove the front polarizer? If my understanding is correct, both the front and back polarizers are needed in order for the LCD to work properly (i.e., the light gets polarized by the back polarizer first, and then passes through the front polarizer)? You comments will be appreciated!

Hey, great work on this project. I wanted to buy the snowbind case but couldn"t justify the cost. I have the same case and I ended up picking up the same monitor that you used in your project.

Is it possible that you post or send me photos of the inside of the case when you have this installed? I"m just a bit confused on how you wired up everything?

I tried taking some photos, but I have covered the screen PCB with a cover, so it was hard to see in the photos. I basically just laid it inside the case with a 90-degree angle. I tried drawing it here: (view from the front)0

I used "wallpaper engine" to just set the animations as wallpaper on that screen. I mentioned it in the last step, but I could probably make a own step about that, if you are interested in more details.2

I think you should have more pics and info about the re- mounting the LCD. After all if you don"t do it right all that work is for nothing. While I understand your wiring diagram, I think that it should be explained and a larger part of this Instructible...for example to get white lite your are powering all 3 lanes (red,green,blue) on the RGB tape.

Hello, Wonderfull project, I have the same case and I would love to do it (if I have time and the screen to the right size). Just a question, can you put a photo of the cable connection to see if it"s easy to open the case ? One little suggestion, instead of connecting the panel to the graphic card (which mean to run a cable outside, why don"t you use a USB to VGA or DVI converter (like this https://www.amazon.fr/Adaptateur-convertisseur-adaptateur-Affichage-multi-écrans/dp/B079L81FRD/ref=asc_df_B079L81FRD/?tag=googshopfr-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=227894524041&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17927658121409960098&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9055710&hvtargid=pla-442905712462&psc=1) ?

Thanks! So I actually bought one of those adapters, as well as an internal USB 3.0 to USB A port and tried it that way, but I couldn"t get it to work reliably. You might have better luck than I have, but I found it simpler to just run the cable through the case. I just removed one of the PCIE slot covers, and ran it out through there, so opening and closing the case is not a problem.More CommentsPost Comment

About: I"m a High Voltage Electrical Engineer by trade, but I"ve been involved in computers and electronics since my teens. My experience and knowledge ranges from the world of 5V DC up to the world of 132,000V AC. …

I"ve been working on a project that used a 16x2 LCD display and wanted a nice finish that also allowed me to seal against water and other liquids. I also needed impact resistance, low cost and the ability to be changed easily if worn or broken.

2) A small piece of perspex over a cut hole in the enclosure. Cheaper but not so nice finish, showing the full LCD through and any rough enclosure cutting.

3) Looking for access to a laser cutter to make a profiled perspex window that sits through the enclosure hole to sit flush with surface. Difficult tolerances and no depth control with a laser.

So, eventually I tried something else and ended up with what I think is a nice professional finish that is easy to do, cheap, and results in an iPhone type black glass frame style, with a clear window exactly the right size to show the display properly. It can also be easily adapted to any other type or size of display.

Since I"ve been getting more proficient with CADSoft Eagle, I simply used a blank BRD file with mm grid to create my drawing and print at scale on to some card.

I took the original dimensions of the 16x2 LCD display I had and drew it up, including the stand-off holes. I then added an additional 5mm surround to give my bezel additional strength around the fixing holes, and also to make it look better since the holes wouldn"t be right on the edge.

A fine tip permanent pen like a Sharpie or Write-4-All works well on the acrylic. I used 1.5mm clear acrylic sheet for a glass-like finish. You could use different colour acrylic or thicker/thinner to suit your requirements.

For the 16x2 LCD the display area is approx 15mm x 65mm. I made my window 14mm x 64mm so there is a slight overlap to the display so no edges can be seen.

To do this we simply want a piece of tape stuck to this area so that it does not get painted. I used electrical insulation tape as it cuts and peels easily and leaves no residue.

Use a sharp knife to score lightly along the inside edges of the window area. Pay careful attention to meeting up in the corners so that our tape has a continuous rectangular cut.

These correspond exactly to the stand-off holes in the LCD PCB. This means we can use a single metal or plastic bolt to mount both our bezel and the LCD when finished.

NOTE : Always drill a pilot hole first. This means you can be more accurate with positioning, and also means you don"t make a large hole in the template.

Lay the piece on top of a scrap piece of timber. I used a bit of 1/4" ply. I also put a piece of the protective film underneath to stop the acrylic picking up any dust and fibres as much as possible.

Remove the template and then re-drill with the correct sized drill bit. I used a 3.5mm bit to give me a slight play to offset any error due to manual drilling.

Make sure the piece is always flat, with the timber behind, and that you drill SLOWLY. This will ensure an accurate drill with minimum of swarf, rough edges and chances of cracking.

We now want to spray paint the area that will be the bezel outer border. Choose your colour for this, although I used black and found it produced a lovely black glass type finish.

Use some of the insulation tape doubled back on itself to act as double sided tape and mount the acrylic piece to some backing paper or card. The masking tape applied already should be FACE UP.

Mounting the piece is to make sure it doesn"t get blown around by the force of the spray can, as we don"t want overspray onto the other side of the acrylic.

EDIT: On making one for a 64x128 1.8" TFT display it occurred to me that we can simply mask the back side of the acrylic completely. This ensures 100% that you don"t get any overspray on what will become the top face. When everything is dry just peel off the masking on the other side too.

Take the piece into a well ventilated area before spraying. Outdoors is best, or a garage with open door. The paint has quite an odour until fully dry.

Apply a generous coating of spray paint from a distance of 15-25cm minimum. DO light coats and repeat as necessary. Take care to also paint the acrylic edges if you want this, although these will appear coloured anyway.

Once you have an edge then slowly peel the tape away from the acrylic and you will be left with a nice sharp and clean edge between painted and non-painted area.

You now have clear acrylic top face with a painted underside. The top is nice and shiny and the coloured finish cannot be marked or worn away as it will be face down on your enclosure.

You can now mount the bezel to your enclosure, using the mounting holes and some 3mm bolts. The same bolts can be used to mount the LCD behind. I found 3mm x 20mm bolts are ideal. You can also use nylon ones that are used for PCB stand-offs.

If you need weather/water proofing then simply apply a thin layer of sealant under the black border outside of the stand-off hole line. When this dries in place it will form a watertight seal that can"t be seen.

This is the first instructable I have made so please take a moment to leave feedback on anything you think could be improved, or if this helped you in any way.

Awesome idea! I"m just starting on an Arduino based chess timer project with a small VFD display and a couple of those big "arcade" style microswitch buttons for my son and was thinking about how to make a decent looking hole / bezel for the display. Your instructable solved my problem elegantly! Thanks and thumbs up for you!

Then use a new, sharp razor blade or X-acto knife and score a line into the plastic. Make at least 10 to 15 passes, half one direction and half the other. Press firmly down, but not TOO hard. While still stuck to the ruler, carefully bend the free part of the plastic sheet and bend it AWAY from the score line.

The sheet will snap with a perfect, clean edge that needs no finishing! Gloves and safety glasses are a good idea when doing this. I"ve cut myself a few times when the sheet snapped and nicked the palm of my hand.

This is similar to cutting glass. You create a stress concentration point and the sheet breaks at that point. Maybe I should make an Instructable of the technique! LOL!0

The types of flathead countersunk hex head bolts in the attached picture are great for such projects, especially the black bolts. I"ve used them a lot for such panels and also for mounting black items like IEC mains input sockets. They provide a fantastic finish, you just have to be careful and precise with your countersinking. Available on eBay from various sources. I use the M3 type most often but other sizes are available. I"d avoid pan-heads of a different colour on the outside as they don"t look nearly as professional as the countersunk flatheads. If you don"t want to countersink then use the button head ones, they look much nicer than the pan heads.

I"ve used the milled edge rebate technique in the past to produce a flush finish and it works great ... IF you can get someone to do the milling for you. I was lucky, I did. You don"t NEED a CNC machine but a plain old milling machine IS required for a really good accurate finish. If you have a decent pillar drill, you can use a simple cross feed milling table to do the milling with your drill. eBay has a great one for under £50 that I"m planning on getting.

However, you CAN achieve the effect by taking advantage of the ability of true perspex to be acetone welded invisibly and you build the total from the top piece that fits exactly into the cutout hole (very accurate cutting, filing and trimming is needed. Then before black painting the reverse, acetone weld a complete piece over the top piece like a layer cake. the second layer is larger than the first so provides the rebate step. It"s tricky but can be very successful. You can then black mask the rear as before.

Another trick is to use stand-offs behind the front panel, bolted to the front panel via countersunk holes at the front with the relevant bolts, then mount the operstional display etc to the stand-offs. The front bezel can then be applied OVER the countersunk bolts using double-sided adhesive or using a silicone bead as it should never need to come off again. I am using this process currently for a frequency meter display.

Nice design. How did you get round the paint being peeling off when you remove the tape? I"d have thought you"d need to score exactly on the edge of the tape before you remove it!0

This 2-wire panel meter features a 3 digit LCD with 12.5mm (0.5") digit height in a low profile housing and a measurement range up to 25V.  Fitted with a threaded stud which allows mounting of the product through a 5.5mm (7/32”) drill hole, this unique enclosure provides quick and easy mounting. A rubber seal provides splashproof protection when fitted between the meter and mounting panel.  Connection is via wires.

This panel meter features a 3½ digit LCD with 8mm (0.31") digit height in a low profile housing.  Fitted inside a threaded stud which allows easy mounting of the product through a 32.5mm (1.28”) hole, this unique enclosure is ideal for quick mounting.  A rubber seal provides waterproof protection to IP67 / NEMA 4X when fitted between the meter and mounting panel.  Connection is via screw terminals. The EM32-1B is a low cost, popular part, normally stocked in high quantity and suitable for new designs.

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The implementation is simple genius. It"s a browser that starts up full screen (kiosk mode) and just sits there and updates occasionally. DakBoard provides the private webpage and tools to make that happen. You can certainly build this yourself with any number of open source tools. I chose DakBoard because it was simple, beautiful, and I was able to get the whole thing done in less than an hour. I"m sure I"ll spend many hours tweaking it through. There"s also the very popular MagicMIrror platform, so lots of choice and power in this space!

It has to just work. If my Spouse doesn"t like the idea or find its not reliable, the SAF (Spouse Acceptance Factor) will be low and they"ll want to get rid of it. All it takes is one "why isn"t this working" and I"m dead in the water.

Family Calendar(s), movie times, temperature, news, my blood sugar, disk free on my NAS, TV schedule, family photos, commute traffic, album releases, homework due soon, family events, trips, flight status, music playing now, literally anything you want as a glance-able display.

You"ll want to ask yourself, is this just an iPad on the wall? I"d propose not. In fact, I"d say this is a Wall Mounted Glanceable Display - a personal dashboard - not an interactive thing. I want the family and kids to just stop by, note important information and move on.

It"s also worth pointing out the a horizontal monitor on the wall looks like, well, a monitor on the wall. But somehow when it"s Portrait it"s dramatic.It"s not something we are (yet) used to seeing. I may try this out in a few ways, or even make a few of these displays!

It"s pretty easy! I used the DakBoard Blog but I had most of the stuff already. Get a $35 Raspberry Pi 3. The 3 is fast and includes Wifi so you don"t need an extra adapter.

I like a 2.5A powersupply but some folks say you can run the Raspberry Pi off the monitor"s USB power - IF that power can put out at least 1A. 500mA will likely cause instability. It depends on if you want to try to get the whole thing down to one power cable.

And finally - a 24" ish (smaller is fine) LCD (IPS is nice) monitor with smallish bezels and HDMI inputs that go out to the side (NOT directly out the back) as you want this flush on the wall. Think about how you"ll mount it. You can take the back off the monitor and use hanging wire OR use a flush VESA mount.

Install Raspbian on the Raspberry Pi. I use Noobs to bootstrap my install as it"s super fast and easy. Go through the standard setup. Make sure you"ve set up: Wifi login

Then you make sure that Chromium starts up full screen, the mouse is hidden, and we"re looking at the dashboard! It"s super important you don"t have to touch it. It"s an appliance, right?sudo nano ~/.config/lxsession/LXDE-pi/autostart

Then you can set up a cronjob if you want to turn the Pi"s screen on and off on a schedule. Using rpi-hdmi.sh you can make a crontab -e that looks like this:# Turn HDMI Off (22:00/10:00pm)

My family uses Google Calendar (GSuite) to manage hanselman.com, but I use Outlook at work. I also have a lot of business/work crap in my calendar that the family doesn"t need to see. So I have two problems here, filtering, and appointment movement between Work and Home.

My wife and kids use Google Calendar and it"s their authoritative source. My work calendar is MY authoritative source, so I want to sync Outlook->Google but ONLY including Personal/Podcasts/Travel categories. I categorize in Outlook at work, and then those appointments that are appropriate for the family calendar get moved over. Then the Family Calendar dashboard includes color coordinated items for Mom, Dad, Kid1, Kid2. The kids include homework that"s due as appointments.

GOTCHA:I have been using Google Calendar for YEARS. I have also been using sync tools like this for years. As such, I was noticing that sometimes DakBoard would timeout asking for my Google Calendar"s ICS file. It would take minutes. So I requested it myself and it was 26 megs. It"s clear that Google calendar doesn"t care deeply about iCal and that"s disappointing. This could easily be solved if they"d support some kind of OData like URL-based query for fromdate=, todate=. In this case, the DakBoard was getting 26 megs over and over to just show a few weeks of appointments. I literally had appointments from 2005 in the calendar. I decided that since I"d declared Outlook my authoritative source for my calendar that I"d take an archive (one time snapshot) of my iCal and then delete all my calendar items from Google Calendar and re-sync, one way, from the authoritative source, going back 1 year. I"m likely a rare case but it"s worth noting in case you bump into this.

All in all, this can easily be done in a short few hours if you have a Pi and a monitor. The time will be spent making it "sanitary." Making the cables perfect, hanging it on the wall, hiding the cables, then tweaking the screen to be perfect.

DakBoard has a free option that works great, or a Premium subscription that gives you even more control. Again, it depends on your web/art ability, and your patience. This is a fun new world that I"m excited to get involved with and my family is already stoked about this new display as we enter the holiday season.

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Scott Hanselman is a former professor, former Chief Architect in finance, now speaker, consultant, father, diabetic, and Microsoft employee. He is a failed stand-up comic, a cornrower, and a book author.

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