cutout for tft display pricelist

Thinking of incorporating small LCDs or specialty shaped custom static LCD displays? There is an element you need to be aware of. Using a nonstandard shape or implementing a smaller display may increase the production cost of your custom LCD display module.

Small custom LCD Modules in this article are represented by having dimensions with an area [Width times Height] smaller than 400 millimeters squared. The reason for the higher cost of these units is taken from the fact that only a portion of the LCD production process is automated. The cutting of the glass is mechanized and can easily be repeated for smaller sized cuts; however, the polarizer, which is applied to the back of the LCD, must be applied by hand and requires delicate, labor intensive skill. This makes for higher labor costs and decreased production line efficiency for each small custom LCD display. Smaller displays are still available, but customers should be prepared to pay a higher price for the production of their unique design.

Likewise, if you need specialty shape cuts, expect slightly increased costs. Manufacturing uses an original sheet of glass, approximately 396mm by 345mm, to cut out the smaller ITO glass pieces for each individual LCD. The increased cost arises from the amount of glass wasted in between cuts. For example, the waste generated from cutting a circle out of an original square shape. The corners left over by this cut are unusable in the creation of additional circle displays.

Increased costs are a given when you are looking to design and build small custom LCD displays. With changing technology and greater specializations of technology, the factories efficiency for customized LCDs will continue to improve. Slowly the prices for today’s smaller LCDs and specialty cut displays should decrease as customers continue to look for smaller and more flexible custom LCDs to distinguish their products from their competitors.

SIMATIC HMI, KTP400 Basic, Basic Panel, Key/touch operation, 4" TFT display, 65536 colors, PROFINET interface, configurable from WinCC Basic V13/ STEP 7 Basic V13, contains open-source software, which is provided free of charge see enclosed CD

Information obligation imposed by Article 33, REACH Regulation: This product includes one or several articles in which the following substance of the candidate list is contained in concentrations higher than 0,1% weight by weight (w/w):

Based on the information currently available, we assume that these substances do not pose any risk if the articles are used as intended (including disposal). Please also refer to product documentation.

Information obligation imposed by Article 33, REACH Regulation: This product includes one or several articles in which the following substance of the candidate list is contained in concentrations higher than 0,1% weight by weight (w/w):

Based on the information currently available, we assume that these substances do not pose any risk if the articles are used as intended (including disposal). Please also refer to product documentation.

SIMATIC HMI, KTP700 Basic, Basic Panel, Key/touch operation, 7" TFT display, 65536 colors, PROFINET interface, configurable from WinCC Basic V13/ STEP 7 Basic V13, contains open-source software, which is provided free of charge see enclosed CD

Information obligation imposed by Article 33, REACH Regulation: This product includes one or several articles in which the following substance of the candidate list is contained in concentrations higher than 0,1% weight by weight (w/w):

Based on the information currently available, we assume that these substances do not pose any risk if the articles are used as intended (including disposal). Please also refer to product documentation.

Information obligation imposed by Article 33, REACH Regulation: This product includes one or several articles in which the following substance of the candidate list is contained in concentrations higher than 0,1% weight by weight (w/w):

Based on the information currently available, we assume that these substances do not pose any risk if the articles are used as intended (including disposal). Please also refer to product documentation.

Add some dazzle to your project with this 1.45" diagonal graphic TFT LCD display module. You"ll often see this display advertised as a 1.44" Color TFT but we rounded up instead. This small display packs 128x128 full-color pixels into one square inch of active display area. It is a great choice when you need color and sharp detail while using minimal front panel space. At less than 5 grams, the display adds very little weight to handheld or wearable devices.

Thanks to the integrated Sitronix ST7735S or compatible controller, a single 3.3v source powers everything. The SPI host interface allows full read and write control of the display while using only 10 pins. The single bright white LED backlight has anode (A,+) and cathode (K, -) pins brought out on the Flexible Printed Circuit (FPC) tail. To connect, all you need is a single standard 10-conductor, 0.5 mm SMT ZIF connector.

While the SPI interface requires only a few lines to control this TFT LCD module, it is still possible to transfer data at a rate that supports 20 FPS (Frames Per Second) screen updates -- fast enough to play a full motion video.

To get started, download the datasheet and SPI sample code. And of course, Crystalfontz is always here to help you when you integrate this display into your application.

I"ve been working on a project that used a 16x2 LCD display and wanted a nice finish that also allowed me to seal against water and other liquids. I also needed impact resistance, low cost and the ability to be changed easily if worn or broken.

3) Looking for access to a laser cutter to make a profiled perspex window that sits through the enclosure hole to sit flush with surface. Difficult tolerances and no depth control with a laser.

So, eventually I tried something else and ended up with what I think is a nice professional finish that is easy to do, cheap, and results in an iPhone type black glass frame style, with a clear window exactly the right size to show the display properly. It can also be easily adapted to any other type or size of display.

I took the original dimensions of the 16x2 LCD display I had and drew it up, including the stand-off holes. I then added an additional 5mm surround to give my bezel additional strength around the fixing holes, and also to make it look better since the holes wouldn"t be right on the edge.

A fine tip permanent pen like a Sharpie or Write-4-All works well on the acrylic. I used 1.5mm clear acrylic sheet for a glass-like finish. You could use different colour acrylic or thicker/thinner to suit your requirements.

For the 16x2 LCD the display area is approx 15mm x 65mm. I made my window 14mm x 64mm so there is a slight overlap to the display so no edges can be seen.

Remove the template and then peel the outer area of tape away and this will leave a nice clean cut 14mm x 64mm piece where our display will eventually show through.

We now want to spray paint the area that will be the bezel outer border. Choose your colour for this, although I used black and found it produced a lovely black glass type finish.

Mounting the piece is to make sure it doesn"t get blown around by the force of the spray can, as we don"t want overspray onto the other side of the acrylic.

EDIT: On making one for a 64x128 1.8" TFT display it occurred to me that we can simply mask the back side of the acrylic completely. This ensures 100% that you don"t get any overspray on what will become the top face. When everything is dry just peel off the masking on the other side too.

Take the piece into a well ventilated area before spraying. Outdoors is best, or a garage with open door. The paint has quite an odour until fully dry.

You can now mount the bezel to your enclosure, using the mounting holes and some 3mm bolts. The same bolts can be used to mount the LCD behind. I found 3mm x 20mm bolts are ideal. You can also use nylon ones that are used for PCB stand-offs.

If you need weather/water proofing then simply apply a thin layer of sealant under the black border outside of the stand-off hole line. When this dries in place it will form a watertight seal that can"t be seen.

Awesome idea! I"m just starting on an Arduino based chess timer project with a small VFD display and a couple of those big "arcade" style microswitch buttons for my son and was thinking about how to make a decent looking hole / bezel for the display. Your instructable solved my problem elegantly! Thanks and thumbs up for you!

The types of flathead countersunk hex head bolts in the attached picture are great for such projects, especially the black bolts. I"ve used them a lot for such panels and also for mounting black items like IEC mains input sockets. They provide a fantastic finish, you just have to be careful and precise with your countersinking. Available on eBay from various sources. I use the M3 type most often but other sizes are available. I"d avoid pan-heads of a different colour on the outside as they don"t look nearly as professional as the countersunk flatheads. If you don"t want to countersink then use the button head ones, they look much nicer than the pan heads.

I"ve used the milled edge rebate technique in the past to produce a flush finish and it works great ... IF you can get someone to do the milling for you. I was lucky, I did. You don"t NEED a CNC machine but a plain old milling machine IS required for a really good accurate finish. If you have a decent pillar drill, you can use a simple cross feed milling table to do the milling with your drill. eBay has a great one for under £50 that I"m planning on getting.

However, you CAN achieve the effect by taking advantage of the ability of true perspex to be acetone welded invisibly and you build the total from the top piece that fits exactly into the cutout hole (very accurate cutting, filing and trimming is needed. Then before black painting the reverse, acetone weld a complete piece over the top piece like a layer cake. the second layer is larger than the first so provides the rebate step. It"s tricky but can be very successful. You can then black mask the rear as before.

Another trick is to use stand-offs behind the front panel, bolted to the front panel via countersunk holes at the front with the relevant bolts, then mount the operstional display etc to the stand-offs. The front bezel can then be applied OVER the countersunk bolts using double-sided adhesive or using a silicone bead as it should never need to come off again. I am using this process currently for a frequency meter display.

Nice design. How did you get round the paint being peeling off when you remove the tape? I"d have thought you"d need to score exactly on the edge of the tape before you remove it!0

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