diy projector lcd screen quotation

The second main part is a LCD screen. I used a TFT computer monitor. There are a lot of screen sizes. Look for one that fits on the glass plate of your overhead projector. Bigger works too, but then you will lose some screen edges.

A lot of screens got a short FFC cable, thats called a "FFC issue". You need to extend the cable by replace it with a longer cable or extend the FFC cable with a solder iron. The easiest way is to find a screen with no FFC issues.

4) Search on the internet for a type with no FFC issues. You can look in the database of Lumenlab or search with Google "LCD brand + model + ffc issue"

Start stripping the LCD screen. There are a lot of different screens, it could have different parts and and look not exactly the same. I describing here the basic steps.

1) Lay down the screen on the overhead projector. Use something between the LCD screen and the glass plate to create some space. Watch out for scratches on the screen.

1) Important is the cooling of the screen. Create enough space between the LCD screen and the glass plate (between 6-8cm). In my design I placed at the left and right side a 80x80mm cooling fan. To create a good airflow, one will blow in and the other blow out.

To protect the LCD screen you"ll need a IR (against heat) + UV (against fade) filter. You can buy these separately or an all in one glass. I"ve used the all in one. It"s a small glass that needs to be placed a few centimeters above the lamp.

I get a HP LCD screen that is quite nice to do, but my problem is how to neutralize the backlight, i am quite afraid to burst everything by just cutting cables, whats is your best way to do it ? Thanks

I replaced the lamp in my overhead with a high power LED chip, and it"s as bright, and doesn"t get as hot. This eliminated the need for me to cool the screen or use a UV filter, making the whole design a bit more compact and streamlined.0

what kind of light is it? can i use cfl high power light...do i actualy need the freshnel lens , what will happen when without freshnel lens projector runs ? (y)

You can use any light source that is fairly concentrated, meaning that the beam all goes forward, not behind the source. Usually it is a tungsten lamp in overhead projectors, but a CFL may work if you can mount it where the original lamp was, but I have a feeling that a CFL won"t be much of an improvement. And yes, you absolutely need the Fresnel lens. It is part of the overhead projector and makes all of the light even on the image you are projecting. Without the lens, only a very small portion of the screen will be lit, and it will not condense in the projection lens as well, as the light will go all over.0

If you search for "LVDS" on ebay, you"ll find a shop that sells LCD panel controllers (they have cables as well!) at an unbeatable price, for $25 you can get a controller suitable for most LCDs up to 19"", it even has 2 inputs - analog VGA & DVI...

im posting up top as a reply, you should improve image quality of these projectors by building a cardboard box over the top of the projection unit. light bleed out into the room from the main projector unit itself is probably causing the image to look faded. obviously leave a hole where the glass mirror is so the projector image will go through the box. you may have to monitor for heat, you will want to make the room light tight as possible, even if you have to put a blanket over the window at night and cover clock radio led"s etc. because even a small bit of light will wash out the projector image. make sure you monitor for heat when you put the cardboard box over the unit and watch for heat dammage as this is untested, you may have to put small fans in the unit to blow out hot air if thats the case. hope this helps, i experimented with a non projector and simple cardboard box and mirror and lense and got ok results along time ago. havent had the funds to try a projector modification.0

We just finished our DIY-projector until this step. Everthing works, but the light is really bad. We have an OH-projector with quite a decent lamp so it seems strange. Someone who can support us?More CommentsPost Comment

Unlike TVs, projectors are actually one part of a multipart system. The screen, room, and projector all play a role in the final image you see. A projector can be perfectly accurate (more on this below), but the image can still look wrong because of how the screen is affecting it. The main factors we considered when testing a projection screen were: gain, color accuracy, viewing angle, and texture.

Gain is a measurement of how much light the screen reflects. A gain of 1.0 means it reflects the same amount of light as an industry standard white magnesium-oxide board. Screens can reflect less light and have a gain of less than 1.0, or more light and have a gain higher than 1.0. A lower gain will produce deeper, darker blacks but reduce overall image brightness. In the early days of digital projection, this was useful because projectors had terrible (read: grayish) blacks. But that is less of an issue now with most decent projectors.

A higher gain, made possible by special screen materials, reflects more light back toward the center of the room. This creates a brighter image, but it also reduces viewing angles and can introduce hot spots (areas of the image that are noticeably brighter than other areas). It used to be that a higher gain was necessary, but as projectors have gotten more powerful, today a gain of 1.0 is often sufficient.

Color accuracy measures how well the screen reflects the colors projected onto it. The makeup of the screen can result in certain colors being absorbed more than others and introduce a tint to the image that isn’t coming from the projector. Many projectors ship with picture modes that are close to accurate out of the box, but those might no longer be accurate after they hit the screen. A screen that introduces as little color shifting as possible is ideal. The two images below show the same image on two different screen materials. You can easily see the color shifts between the two and the problems a screen can introduce.

At left is Goo Systems" Screen Goo paint, and at right is Elite Screens" Sable. Note the warm, red tint to the Screen Goo, while the Elite has a cool, blue tint. Photo: Chris Heinonen

Viewing angles influence how wide you can sit from the center of the screen before the light noticeably drops off. With a gain of 1.0, the viewing angle can be close to 180 degrees, since it reflects everything more or less equally in all directions. With a higher gain, the viewing angle gets smaller, as you are in essence “focusing” the reflected light more toward the center of the room. With a high-gain screen, you’ll want to put seats closer to the center of the screen.

The texture of the screen also impacts how much detail you can see. If a screen’s texture is evident from a usual seating distance, it will alter the image quality and possibly your enjoyment. If the screen material is very fine, then you will not see any texture from a normal viewing distance, so the image appears smooth.

Almost all of the screen reviews out there are of expensive screens, so we had to start from scratch. I first went to the AccuCal Projection Screen Material Report. W. Jeff Maier of AccuCal has tested samples of many screen materials using high-end equipment to determine their color accuracy and actual gain. Since he is dealing with only samples of the materials (often 8½- by 11-inch pieces) that he is sent through the mail, the report doesn’t go into construction or installation of the screens themselves.

Next, my research turned to the main AVSForum and other resources. Here the screen conversations range from the top-of-the-line Stewart to a DIY option for $3 from Home Depot. There are also many small Internet Direct companies that would otherwise go unnoticed without discussions at AVS and other locations.

We also pored over reviews from Amazon, making sure to carefully read what people actually complained about. I also talked to other reviewers and calibrators to find out what they might have used and seen in their work that impressed them, even if they had not formally reviewed that particular screen.

After all that, we set out to review 100-inch, 16:9 screens, as close to 1.0 gain as possible. We figured this was a good-size, average screen that would work for most people. You can certainly go larger, though the image will be dimmer (by an amount equal to the increase in screen area). Since most modern home theater projectors won’t have an issue creating a bright image on a 100-inch screen (and most can even do larger), we didn’t feel anything higher than a 1.0 gain was necessary. Since most content is 16:9, that was also our preferred screen shape, though many companies make 2.35:1-shaped screens as well.

We didn’t test pull-down screens or ambient-light-rejecting materials unless we already had a sample around. Those are more specialized cases, and we were looking for the screen that would be best for the greatest number of people in a semi-permanent home setting.

We were looking for a roughly 100-inch, 1.0-gain, 16:9 screen that had very little color shift, no noticeable texture, good viewing angles, and easy installation and setup. And, ideally, was very inexpensive.

So to sum up, we were looking for a roughly 100-inch, 1.0-gain, 16:9 screen that had very little color shift, no noticeable texture, good viewing angles, and easy installation and setup—and, ideally, was very inexpensive. With that in mind, we ended up bringing in the Silver Ticket STR Series 100″, the Elite Screens SableFrame 2 100″ in CineWhite, the 100-inch Stewart StudioTek 130 and Cima Neve 1.1 screens, three 120-inch screen materials (blackout cloth, FlexiWhite, and FlexiGray) from Carl’s Place, Wilsonart Designer White laminate in an 8- by 4-foot sheet, Goo Systems" Screen Goo Reference White and GooToob, and Home Depot"s Behr Silver Screen. I also included in the testing my personal screen, a 122-inch Screen Innovations SolarHD 4K.

The Stewart and Screen Innovations screens are much more expensive models that are often sold only through custom AV retailers, but we still included them in our tests as references for comparison. Stewart is the best-selling screen brand for custom home theaters, and the StudioTek 130 is the company"s best-selling material. It is the reference standard for a home theater screen and the one most reviewers are likely to recommend if you ask for a single suggestion; I use it when testing projectors. In our tests of screens, we wanted to make sure to pit everything against this reference to see how well they performed.

Cinemas all over the world have become no-go zones with COVID-19 around, but watching the latest blockbuster on the small screen at home is simply not the same. You could bring the big screen home, but buying a quality projector is going to set you back a small pile of cash. Fortunately [Matt] from [DIY Perks] has an alternative for us, demonstrating how to build your own true 4K projector with parts bought off eBay, for a fraction of the price.

The core of the projector is a small 4K LCD panel, which is from a modified Sony smartphone. [Matt] disassembled the phone, removed the backlight from the LCD, which leaves it semi-transparent, and mounted it at a right angle to the rest of the phone body. The battery was also replaced with a voltage regulator to simulate a full battery. To create a practical projector, a much brighter backlight is needed. [Matt] used a 100W 10 mm diameter LED for this purpose. The LED needs some serious cooling to prevent it from burning itself out, and a large CPU cooler does the job perfectly. Two Fresnel lenses in series are used to turn the diverging light from the LED into a converging light source to pass through the LCD. An old 135 mm large format camera lens is placed at the focal point of light to act as a projection lens. The entire assembly is mounted on a vertical frame of threaded rods, nuts, and aluminium plates. [Matt] also used these threaded rods with GT2 pulleys to create a simple but effective moving platform for the projection lens that allows the focus of the projected image to be adjusted. The frame is topped off by a 45-degree mirror to project the image against a wall instead of the roof, and the frame is covered with aluminium panels.

The video after the break goes into incredible detail on how projector functions and how to build your own down. It definitely looks like a doable build for most hackers. [Matt] will also be releasing a complete PDF build guide in the next few weeks.

Compared side by side, the DIY projector beats a $2000 commercial 4K projector in terms of image sharpness and colour. The DIY version only falls short in terms of brightness, because it uses a lower output light source. It requires a very dark room to see the projected image, but it also means that less active cooling is needed, making it quieter than the commercial projector.

We’ve featured [Matt’s] work before, including adual-screen laptopandflexible LED panels. His videos are always easy to watch and packed with technical detail, and we’re looking forward to seeing what he comes up with next.

If you’re setting up a home theatre, one thing you’ll need to find is an appropriate projector screen. Fortunately, the home theatre industry has come a long way in the past ten years, so you now have all kinds of options when it comes to this screen. But which one is the best?

Typically, a blackout cloth or actual projector screen is the best choice for your projector screen choice. Other materials will work, but with some reduction of quality. Blackout cloth is the best as it’s cost-effective and absorbs light from the projector, so colors stand out more.

A lot of this will depend on what you’re trying to get out of your viewing experience. If you don’t care about getting the best of the best, you may find that a cheaper screen alternative will work just fine. If you’re a cinephile looking for a top-of-the-line setup, a professional screen is what you’re probably looking for. We’ll walk you through some of your options here, so read on to find out more!

What really makes a good projector screen? It’s a common question that gets asked in-home theatre circles. The reality is that there are a lot of screen options on the market today; different materials, different colors, different shapes. All these qualities play a role in what might make a good screen. But other than that, here are some projector-specific variables you should know about:

These are just a handful of the points you’ll need to consider when shopping for a projector screen. But of course, most people won’t need a screen with all these features. Where you set up, what kind of projector you have, and the lighting environment is all going to play a role in which screen you choose.

When it comes to choosing the best material for your screen, you have quite a few options. In fact, there are so many that you may need to consider other variables like projector style and price to fully make your decision.

Both professional and more DIY cost-effective methods exist. At the end of the day, they all accomplish the same task — but some undoubtedly do the job better than others.

Below we’ll explore some of the most popular material options for projector screens. By the end of this article, you should have a firm understanding of which screen style is right for you and your specific usage.

Blackout cloth is probably one of the better projector screen alternatives. Not only is it fairly cheap, but it’s flat and durable — making your movie viewing experience a bit less painless and more enjoyable. Usually, even though blackout is in the name, the surface of the cloth is matte white. Although, other colors are available.

Projector screen material, like this option (on Amazon), is essentially blackout cloth with a matte white finish already installed. For other options, you’ll need to apply a layer of paint; just make sure you do so evenly. Using a sprayer is a great way to accomplish this.

One of the more popular options to explore for a homemade projector screen is to use paint. For this, you’ll need to ensure that you’ve got a section of the wall that will be appropriate for video playback. Before you start breaking out the house paint, there are a few things to know about projector screens and paint.

First, you can’t just use any paint. You’ll need to source a projector screen-specific paint.Screen paint, like this Digital Image Ultra White (on Amazon), is exactly what you’ll need. You’ll need to determine which color is right for your environment before you make a purchase, though. But we’ll touch on that later.

Remember that you’ll need an even surface to project your video onto. If you fail to correctly apply the projector screen paint, it’s going to cause issues. Every single imperfection is going to create a shadow and will get annoying very quickly.

If you’re looking for a really cheap option, you may have your eyes on that extra bed sheet in your closet. You thought maybe it would make the perfect screen material. Well, of course, it will work in a pinch, but there are a few things that will make this option less than optimal.

One reason a bed sheet isn’t the best projector screen option is that bedsheets are usually quite thin. This is okay for getting a good night’s sleep but bad for projecting a video. The light from the projector won’t be absorbed by the sheet, leaving you with a bad-quality picture.

So, we’ve explored some common materials for projector screens. Of course, there are a bunch more factors you need to consider before making your purchase. Where are you setting up the screen? Will you be able to set it up flat? What’s the lighting situation in the room? Is there a lot of ambient light to deal with?

While using a custom DIY projector screen can save you some cash, if you’re looking for a surefire option, why not just buy a projector screen? At the end of the day, projector screens are fairly specific and reliable pieces of equipment.

A projector screen, like this 100 inch model (on Amazon), is fairly cost-effective and gives you the best chance of getting a clean and clear image. Compared to other methods, like projector paint, it’s actually one of the cheaper options on our list — if you don’t count, using a bedsheet.

Here’s the thing, while some projector screen materials can get wet, there’s no way around it becoming damaged. Of course, elements like water will definitely cause damage over time. While you might be able to get away with it a few times, after that, it may start to cause problems.

While most people say the electronic portion of your setup is the most critical to keep dry, you still need to worry about the projector screen itself. If your screen is set up outside, and it starts to rain, make sure you immediately fold up your screen, dry it, and store it somewhere safe.

You see, when your projector puts out the light, the screen absorbs the light and creates an image. White is very reflective but can display colors quite well. Black, on the other hand, isvery absorbent, but in the wrong conditions can make colors dull.

If you have a lot of ambient light in your viewing room, black may be a better choice. You’ll also need to remember that your projector doesn’t produce a natural black.

That means the absence of light creates the black you see. With a white screen, it’s almost impossible to create true blacks- which can be quite crucial if you’re watching something dark, like a horror or thriller movie.

So, which one is better? You’ll need to consider your lighting environment, the power of your projector, and viewing angles before you make that decision.

An LCD projector is type of video projector used for displaying video, images or computer data on a screen or other flat surface which uses a LCD screen to project images. LCD can be connected to a computer to project anything you want. The LCD monitor has a control board inside it which converts VGA input signal into a protocol compatible with LCD modules. VGA which stands for Video Graphics Array is an analog standard computer display. There are also few buttons to control the brightness, colour, contrast, and power. The LCD monitor is also integrated with an inverter module which drives the small fluorescent tube (also called cold cathode) with its high voltage. Most LCD panels are built with fluorescent tubes above, beside and behind them which produces white light.A white diffusion panel behind the LCD redirects and scatters the light evenly to ensure a uniform display. This is known as a backlight. A cold cathodefluorescent tube is used to produce backlight.

With this DIY project you can learn about light and optics, plus, you can get your creativity going by using this projector in your next artistic creation.

What you’re going to do is build a box that will direct the light from the screen of your phone towards a magnifying glass, which will then project a blown-up version of the image onto a wall on the other side.

Now, you need to darken the inside of the projector. This stops the light from dispersing and reflecting back into the image, thus ensuring better quality.

Ideally, you should do this with thick paper – I used Fabriano. This will also help with the overall stability of your projector, as having one side cut out can make it a little wobbly.

If you prefer, you can also use black paint. Just make sure it’s dry before continuing to avoid getting paint all over you and the other parts of the projector.

This is because the beams of light travel from the screen to the lens forming a cone. They converge in the magnifying glass and are refracted towards the wall in an inverted cone. In this process, the image gets turned around.

Make sure you measure the size of the screen and not the size of the phone, or it will fall in. If your phone has a full-size screen then make the hole a few millimetres smaller – just enough to hold the phone on top.

This is how your DIY projector should look when it’s fully assembled. Notice how the front is detached from the rest of the box; that’s for adjusting the focus.

Make sure you disable the sleep mode on your smartphone so that the screen won’t shut off. Then, point the smartphone projector at an empty white wall.

If the image is not very sharp, adjust the focus by moving your DIY lens back and forward. You can also get closer or further away from the wall to find the right spot.

Absolutely. With a cardboard box, a smartphone, and a few basic household tools (like tape, a magnifying glass, and some others) you can create a working DIY projector.

To get the clearest possible picture, do make sure you have your phone brightness to the maximum, minimize any light leakage from the box, and don’t have your projector positioned too far from the wall.

You can do this too, just aim your homemade projector onto a piece of paper and start tracing. Another creative idea is to project images onto your subjects on your next photoshoot creating unique light effects.

If you enjoyed this DIY project, you might want to try doing a pinhole camera, or a DIY light-box too. Remember, the idea is to stay crafty and stay creative!